Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 125 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3721 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by checker9 View Post
Just slighting (14 inch or so) past the shelf, so that the baffle/front of the speaker has nothing directly under it. That way, the sound waves full form as the shoot toward the listener/s. With the speakers having shelf space in front of them, on which they are sitting, the initial sound waves are partially reflecting off that surface to your ceiling then back down to you. That causes them to change plus arrive at you milliseconds later which would distort the sound to some degree. So pushing them forward would the sound cleaner, which would make it easier for your AVR to correct for other things during its EQ/room correction set-up. I would suspect you will here a difference in dialog the most doing it.

Before you do it, watch a movie with somewhat hard to hear dialog. Then watch it again after moving your speakers, and you will probably hear a difference.
OK, I'm not following you. Are you wanting me to take the speakers off the shelf or just move them forward 14"? My shelf is only 17.5" and I haven't even had a chance to see how anything sounds at this point because I've been trying to work out the ARC vs Optical instead of OCB vs Receiver

Official Samsung KS8000/8500 Owners Information PDF
Living Room: LG 55LE5500 Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360 w/Kinect
Bedroom: VIZIO E470VL VIZIO VSB200 Sound Bar Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360
Inner Sanctum: Samsung 65KS8000, Halo XBox One, GoW Xbox 360, Onkyo HT-S5300
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post #3722 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Donster View Post
OK, I'm not following you. Are you wanting me to take the speakers off the shelf or just move them forward 14"? My shelf is only 17.5" and I haven't even had a chance to see how anything sounds at this point because I've been trying to work out the ARC vs Optical instead of OCB vs Receiver
Sorry I corrected it. I mean a quarter inch (just slightly past it.) I forgot the / between 1 and 4 Sorry. Basically put the front of the three speakers up to the front edge, so that the front of each speakers is just slightly past the edge.
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post #3723 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by checker9 View Post
Sorry I corrected it. I mean a quarter inch (just slightly past it.) I forgot the / between 1 and 4 Sorry. Basically put the front of the three speakers up to the front edge, so that the front of each speakers is just slightly past the edge.
Gotcha. Right now I have them placed where my owners manual said they should be. I'm not calibrating or doing anything special until I get everything set up just so. But I appreciate your advice and will let you know what it sounds like once I've gotten the whole ARC issue settled. Speaking of which, here is the back of my receiver. I was thinking of going by the receivers owners manual and hooking the ARC up to the OCB, HDMI 4 for the 360 and HDMI 1 for the One since I'm also using it for a BD player. Any thoughts from the experts for this fish out of water?


Official Samsung KS8000/8500 Owners Information PDF
Living Room: LG 55LE5500 Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360 w/Kinect
Bedroom: VIZIO E470VL VIZIO VSB200 Sound Bar Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360
Inner Sanctum: Samsung 65KS8000, Halo XBox One, GoW Xbox 360, Onkyo HT-S5300
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post #3724 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Musician View Post
Yes you would definately want to turn the HDMI UHD Color setting ON for any 4K device hooked up to the TV outputting either YCbCr or RGB.

But just curious, what did you set the TV's HDMI Black Level to?
HDMI Black Level is greyed out on normal, if have the HDMI source as a pc connection.
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post #3725 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 03:54 PM
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If anyone here owns a nvidia shield or care to know the latest update for the system. Nvidia shield now support 4k HDR streaming thru netflix, vudu, youtube or any apps that claim to support HDR stream. So if any apps on the tv is failing to stream 4k HDR. You have the option to test 4k HDR on the nvidia shield. It also support stream 4k resolution from games on a pc to a 4k tv. I just downloaded a major update for the system.

I have the 500g model myself and it's helpful for me thru the summer when the central air conditioner is hopeless in keeping the whole house cool. So I stream my gaming pc to my bedroom, while my portable A/C in the bedroom keeps my body cool. It's just so hard to stay awake when lying on the bed.

Here is a link. https://shield.nvidia.com/android-tv/what-is-4k

https://shield.nvidia.com/android-tv

https://shield.nvidia.com/android-tv/media-server

Last edited by Heavie; 07-26-2016 at 03:57 PM.
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post #3726 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by family_guy View Post
I wonder if this is just a software limitation and not a hardware limitation. On the Vizio P Series, I was getting Dolby Digital+ 7.1 over ARC, but can only get DD 5.1 on this TV.
Samsung, like many manufacturers, chose to implement the ARC to DD 5.1 only. It is not the limitation of the ARC, and though it is rare, some MFR do choose to support DD 7.1. I guess that is the case of Vizio P Series.
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post #3727 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 05:00 PM
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So yes, I have read every post in the 124 pages until now.
Much good information & I've bookmarked many bits.

Coming from a 10 year old 40" 720P Panasonic plasma I think I'll be pleased.

I'll be getting a
UN60KS8000 delivered tomorrow. I've noted that people have said this panel may not be made by Samsung. Any particular info I could provide that would determine that for sure?

I'll also note if this set has multiple stand holes, like the 65"


The main reason I went this way is the 60" is selling for $1700 & the 65" is $2200.
I didn't think the ~15% size increase was worth the ~30% price premium.
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post #3728 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Heavie View Post
HDMI Black Level is greyed out on normal, if have the HDMI source as a pc connection.
Now that's interesting!

In my case it is greyed out in all cases where the device is outputting YCbCr and not for my PC connection outputting RGB where I have to choose the correct setting.

  • The 'Low' setting is for video level RGB [16-235] which would generally be used for video components
  • The 'Normal' setting is for PC level RGB [0-255]
So perhaps that is a major difference between the 2013, 2014 and 2015 Samsung UHD TV settings versus the new 2016 sets that must automatically determine whether it is video level RGB [16-235] or PC level RGB [0-255] based on what you have hooked up to the HDMI input and greys it out so the user can't screw it up.

It is hard to see in the attached thumbnail taken in the middle of the afternoon with my iPad but with 'Normal' -- the correct setting -- you can see shadow detail in the doorway but if I set it to 'Low' the blacks are majorly crushed and it looks pitch black looking into the doorway as would be expected since this is the wrong setting for PC level RGB.

I learnt something today!
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Samsung UN78HU9000 & SEK-3500U/ZA - Firmware 1540.3
Samsung UN40HU7000 & SEK-3500U/ZA - Firmware 1540.3
Samsung UBD-K8500 UHD Blu-ray Player; Apple TV 4K
Arris VIP5662W UHD Whole Home DVR; Chromecast Ultra
Marantz SR7005 Receiver; Magnepan Speakers; Martin Logan Subwoofer

Last edited by Musician; 07-26-2016 at 05:24 PM.
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post #3729 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 05:25 PM
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Display modes, and making my life hell

So I have an HTPC and a GTX 1070 connected to my UN55ks8000 TV, I have it setup through and HD Fury Integral (so that I do not loss focus when I switch inputs on the PC amung other things), this also allows my to split the 4K signal 2 says so HDMI1 and HDMI3 are being feed on the TV via the HDMI output on the GTX (2 calibration sources for different material). So far so good, second I have a DP to HDMI (active) convertor by Club3D here that is suppose to handle 4k60p 4:4:4, it does not bets it can do is 4k60 4:2:0 anything else and no go.
Now I have Monoprice 4K cables setup a 6FT to the HD Fury and a 6FT after it to the TV (x2 one per output). Input2 is from the receiver and handles any 1080P material and such connections, it also provides sound to the receiver from the HTPC via the Optical output of the HD Fury Integral.


Now I can output the following 4K combinations:
4K60P 4:4:4 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K60P 4:2:2 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K59P 4:4:4 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K59P 4:2:2 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K50P 4:4:4 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K50P 4:2:2 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K30P 4:4:4 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K30P 4:4:4 12bit display (this fails)
4K30P 4:2:2 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K29P 4:4:4 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K29P 4:4:4 12bit display (this fails)
4K29P 4:2:2 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K25P 4:4:4 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K25P 4:4:4 12bit display (this fails)
4K25P 4:2:2 12bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable, panel is not 12bit, so no real value
4K25P 4:2:2 10bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K25P 4:2:2 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K24P 4:4:4 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K24P 4:4:4 12bit display (this fails)
4K24P 4:2:2 12bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable, panel is not 12bit, so no real value
4K24P 4:2:2 10bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K24P 4:2:2 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K23P 4:4:4 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K23P 4:4:4 12bit display (this fails)
4K23P 4:2:2 12bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable, panel is not 12bit, so no real value
4K23P 4:2:2 10bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K23P 4:2:2 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable

Update:
I did find upon more reading that if you select Blu-Ray as the device type for an input then you can still adjust it, however you need to be in 4:2 :2 Mode for this to work, but at least then you can use a 10bit display so in reality the valid modes (if you want full calibration) on a GTX 1070 are:

4K60P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K59P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K50P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K30P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K29P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K25P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K24P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K23P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K25P 4:4:4 8bit display
4K24P 4:4:4 8bit display
4K23P 4:4:4 8bit display

At 29 and only at 29 the screen is very dark, but only at that resolution, so I've removed that entirely, as it is almost never needed.

ERIC
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ERIC

Last edited by egandt; 07-26-2016 at 06:28 PM.
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post #3730 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 05:52 PM
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Some people have said they use it as a monitor, I see no way to do that if calibration is not possible, so that has me confused, as 4:4:4 is basically impossible to calibrate correctly. The best one can do is 4:2:2 which is not very good for a desktop.

ERIC

Current HTPC (of the moment):
i7 7700K (at 4.9GHZ),32GB RAM
GTX 1080 TI (at 2.085Ghz)
Samsung 960Evo and Adaptec 6805T RAID6 (11.3TB)

ERIC

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post #3731 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 05:57 PM
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Has anyone ordered an HW‑K950 yet?
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post #3732 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egandt View Post
Some people have said they use it as a monitor, I see no way to do that if calibration is not possible, so that has me confused, as 4:4:4 is basically impossible to calibrate correctly. The best one can do is 4:2:2 which is not very good for a desktop.

ERIC
It depends on what your standard for calibration is. If you want perfectly accurate colors for photoshop/print work, then yeah this TV might not be the best monitor for your PC... you'll likely need to shell out a lot for a "color accurate" 4k monitor. However, the basic settings (Backlight, Brightness, Contrast, Sharpness, Color, some other ones) are still customizable in PC mode. Most PC monitors only have those options as well. These settings are good enough for me!
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post #3733 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egandt View Post
So I have an HTPC and a GTX 1070 connected to my UN55ks8000 TV, I have it setup through and HD Fury Integral (so that I do not loss focus when I switch inputs on the PC amung other things), this also allows my to split the 4K signal 2 says so HDMI1 and HDMI3 are being feed on the TV via the HDMI output on the GTX (2 calibration sources for different material). So far so good, second I have a DP to HDMI (active) convertor by Club3D here that is suppose to handle 4k60p 4:4:4, it does not bets it can do is 4k60 4:2:0 anything else and no go.
Now I have Monoprice 4K cables setup a 6FT to the HD Fury and a 6FT after it to the TV (x2 one per output). Input2 is from the receiver and handles any 1080P material and such connections, it also provides sound to the receiver from the HTPC via the Optical output of the HD Fury Integral.


Now I can output the following 4K combinations:
4K60P 4:4:4 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K60P 4:2:2 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K59P 4:4:4 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K59P 4:2:2 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K50P 4:4:4 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K50P 4:2:2 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K30P 4:4:4 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K30P 4:4:4 12bit display (this fails)
4K30P 4:2:2 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K29P 4:4:4 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K29P 4:4:4 12bit display (this fails)
4K29P 4:2:2 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K25P 4:4:4 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K25P 4:4:4 12bit display (this fails)
4K25P 4:2:2 12bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable, panel is not 12bit, so no real value
4K25P 4:2:2 10bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K25P 4:2:2 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K24P 4:4:4 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K24P 4:4:4 12bit display (this fails)
4K24P 4:2:2 12bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable, panel is not 12bit, so no real value
4K24P 4:2:2 10bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K24P 4:2:2 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K23P 4:4:4 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K23P 4:4:4 12bit display (this fails)
4K23P 4:2:2 12bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable, panel is not 12bit, so no real value
4K23P 4:2:2 10bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K23P 4:2:2 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable

Update:
I did find upon more reading that if you select Blu-Ray as the device type for an input then you can still adjust it, however you need to be in 4:2 :2 Mode for this to work, but at least then you can use a 10bit display so in reality the valid modes (if you want full calibration) on a GTX 1070 are:

4K60P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K59P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K50P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K30P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K29P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K25P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K24P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K23P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K25P 4:4:4 8bit display
4K24P 4:4:4 8bit display
4K23P 4:4:4 8bit display

At 29 and only at 29 the screen is very dark, but only at that resolution, so I've removed that entirely, as it is almost never needed.

ERIC
This is great info! I'm likely going to be getting a GTX 1070 in a few weeks, so I'm looking forward to testing this out as well.
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post #3734 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jwl2020 View Post
I'm having the same issue. I've gone through it with Samsung rep on the phone, but they can't figure it out. I think it's a software issue. Not sure how to properly escalate this.
I am glad I'm not the only one who has had this issue. In fact, I am surprised no one else has encounter this same issue. I wonder if there is anything specific to our setup and/or equipment?

Controlling app volume with remote
I have an odd problem with volume on my KS800D. I have a ZVOX 580 connected via optical cable. Set TV to output to optical. I am able to control volume for my FIOS, Apple TV and Blu-Ray using either my FIOS remote or my Samsung remote. When I load one of the Samsung apps like Netflix or Youtube, changing the volume on either the FIOS or Samsung remote will cause the input to change back to the last HDMI input I was using. I tried an experiment by switching to the TV (OTA) input and then loading an app. When controlling the volume using my FIOS remote, it works as expected. When I try using my Samsung remote, nothing happens at all. Did I set up my sound settings incorrectly? All my device inputs show "VERIZON-ZVOX" or "APPLE TV-ZVOX" except for TV.
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post #3735 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egandt View Post
So I have an HTPC and a GTX 1070 connected to my UN55ks8000 TV, I have it setup through and HD Fury Integral (so that I do not loss focus when I switch inputs on the PC amung other things), this also allows my to split the 4K signal 2 says so HDMI1 and HDMI3 are being feed on the TV via the HDMI output on the GTX (2 calibration sources for different material). So far so good, second I have a DP to HDMI (active) convertor by Club3D here that is suppose to handle 4k60p 4:4:4, it does not bets it can do is 4k60 4:2:0 anything else and no go.
Now I have Monoprice 4K cables setup a 6FT to the HD Fury and a 6FT after it to the TV (x2 one per output). Input2 is from the receiver and handles any 1080P material and such connections, it also provides sound to the receiver from the HTPC via the Optical output of the HD Fury Integral.


Now I can output the following 4K combinations:
4K60P 4:4:4 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K60P 4:2:2 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K59P 4:4:4 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K59P 4:2:2 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K50P 4:4:4 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K50P 4:2:2 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K30P 4:4:4 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K30P 4:4:4 12bit display (this fails)
4K30P 4:2:2 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K29P 4:4:4 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K29P 4:4:4 12bit display (this fails)
4K29P 4:2:2 8bit display: PC Mode, so no color correction
4K25P 4:4:4 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K25P 4:4:4 12bit display (this fails)
4K25P 4:2:2 12bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable, panel is not 12bit, so no real value
4K25P 4:2:2 10bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K25P 4:2:2 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K24P 4:4:4 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K24P 4:4:4 12bit display (this fails)
4K24P 4:2:2 12bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable, panel is not 12bit, so no real value
4K24P 4:2:2 10bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K24P 4:2:2 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K23P 4:4:4 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K23P 4:4:4 12bit display (this fails)
4K23P 4:2:2 12bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable, panel is not 12bit, so no real value
4K23P 4:2:2 10bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable
4K23P 4:2:2 8bit display: Movie mode and color adjustable

Update:
I did find upon more reading that if you select Blu-Ray as the device type for an input then you can still adjust it, however you need to be in 4:2 :2 Mode for this to work, but at least then you can use a 10bit display so in reality the valid modes (if you want full calibration) on a GTX 1070 are:

4K60P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K59P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K50P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K30P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K29P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K25P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K24P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K23P 4:2:2 10bit display
4K25P 4:4:4 8bit display
4K24P 4:4:4 8bit display
4K23P 4:4:4 8bit display

At 29 and only at 29 the screen is very dark, but only at that resolution, so I've removed that entirely, as it is almost never needed.

ERIC
Is this all in RGB mode? Have you tried displaying in YCbCr? I find that if I use any RGB settings the TV sees it as a PC and I lose movie mode. If I use YCbCr then everything is fine.
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post #3736 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 09:00 PM
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Anyone else notice the color banding on certain content like gaming and some hd content that isn't 1080p. I have noticed it enough to make me worry. The banding mostly shows in color gradients like sunset backgrounds and is oval or circular in shape. Is this normal? Is there anything I can do to fix it or help it. Do I have a defective set? I mentioned earlier that I even notice it a little in the poor backgrounds of the apps like YouTube.
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post #3737 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 09:11 PM
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If you are watching blurays and have a true 5.1 or more setup that properly decodes Master Audio from the disc it is in your best interest to skip the ARC and run everything through the receiver to obtain the best audio quality. If you ever want to play 4K video with HD audio you will need to upgrade your receiver as it is not 4K compatible. ARC can only do regular 5.1 Dolby Digital/DTS. In my opinion it is far inferior than the Master Audio track on bluray content. If you choose not to upgrade the receiver then you must choose. 4K video with regular audio or 1080p video with HD audio.

Edit: this was in response to the_donster's post. For some reason the forum scraped the quote.
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Last edited by layzzzee8; 07-26-2016 at 09:20 PM.
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post #3738 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 09:18 PM
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Has anyone ordered an HW‑K950 yet?
I want to, but still unclear on how ATMOS will be supported
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post #3739 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 09:18 PM
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Anyone else notice the color banding on certain content like gaming and some hd content that isn't 1080p. I have noticed it enough to make me worry. The banding mostly shows in color gradients like sunset backgrounds and is oval or circular in shape. Is this normal? Is there anything I can do to fix it or help it. Do I have a defective set? I mentioned earlier that I even notice it a little in the poor backgrounds of the apps like YouTube.
What do you mean HD content that isn't 1080p? If its cable broadcasts (1080i or 720p) then it's the compression used. No way to fix it. ****ty in = ****ty out. The apps splash screens (Netflix, YouTube, etc) are not 4K and will have artifacts as well. Judge your set based on bluray or 4K streaming content. The imperfections on everything else will be amplified because this set is able to show such high contrast and color. My suggestion for poor quality content is turning the brightness down to 44 or 43.
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post #3740 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 09:28 PM
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What do you mean HD content that isn't 1080p? If its cable broadcasts (1080i or 720p) then it's the compression used. No way to fix it. ****ty in = ****ty out. The apps splash screens (Netflix, YouTube, etc) are not 4K and will have artifacts as well. Judge your set based on bluray or 4K streaming content. The imperfections on everything else will be amplified because this set is able to show such high contrast and color. My suggestion for poor quality content is turning the brightness down to 44 or 43.

I mainly play Xbox One set at 1080p and notice it sometimes in game especially load screens. Bluray look great and the little amount of 4K that o have seen on it is amazing. I guess the answer I was looking for is what you mentioned, imperfections in the content which is amplified due to how good the set is.. Just new to all this, this is my first 4K tv and wanted reassurance. Thanks.
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post #3741 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Credelle View Post
I want to, but still unclear on how ATMOS will be supported
Will need to wait for reviews to start flowing onto the web. Here's one- http://www.homecinemachoice.com/news...-hw-k950/23805
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post #3742 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by layzzzee8 View Post
If you are watching blurays and have a true 5.1 or more setup that properly decodes Master Audio from the disc it is in your best interest to skip the ARC and run everything through the receiver to obtain the best audio quality. If you ever want to play 4K video with HD audio you will need to upgrade your receiver as it is not 4K compatible. ARC can only do regular 5.1 Dolby Digital/DTS. In my opinion it is far inferior than the Master Audio track on bluray content. If you choose not to upgrade the receiver then you must choose. 4K video with regular audio or 1080p video with HD audio.

Edit: this was in response to the_donster's post. For some reason the forum scraped the quote.
I have also learned today that the average lifespan of a post on this thread is about 48 hours.

Actually I am using ARC in conjunction with my HDMI 1.4 Receiver without HDCP 2.0 and since the UBD-K8500 Ultra HD Blu-ray Player provides dual outputs I can enjoy both 4K video and the high definition audio formats such as Dolby Digital TrueHD and DTS Master Audio without any of the issues you claim @The_Donster may face and have no plans on upgrading my Receiver since it's not necessary at this point.

In addition to that there are additional Advantages to Hooking Up Devices Directly to the One Connect Box described in detail in the following post 3638 of mine that includes screen captures and a copy of my wiring diagram...

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post45558721

Cheers!
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post #3743 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Musician View Post
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Originally Posted by layzzzee8 View Post
If you are watching blurays and have a true 5.1 or more setup that properly decodes Master Audio from the disc it is in your best interest to skip the ARC and run everything through the receiver to obtain the best audio quality. If you ever want to play 4K video with HD audio you will need to upgrade your receiver as it is not 4K compatible. ARC can only do regular 5.1 Dolby Digital/DTS. In my opinion it is far inferior than the Master Audio track on bluray content. If you choose not to upgrade the receiver then you must choose. 4K video with regular audio or 1080p video with HD audio.

Edit: this was in response to the_donster's post. For some reason the forum scraped the quote.
I have also learned today that the average lifespan of a post on this thread is about 48 hours.

Actually I am using ARC in conjunction with my HDMI 1.4 Receiver without HDCP 2.0 and since the UBD-K8500 Ultra HD Blu-ray Player provides dual outputs I can enjoy both 4K video and the high definition audio formats such as Dolby Digital TrueHD and DTS Master Audio without any of the issues you claim @The_Donster may face and have no plans on upgrading my Receiver since it's not necessary at this point.

In addition to that their are also additional Advantages to Hooking Up Devices Directly to the One Connect Box described in the following post 3686 of mine that also includes a copy of my wiring diagram...

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post45584041

Cheers!

Many people (myself included) are using a HTPC or player which does not have a dual HDMI out setup. The only way to get HD Audio is by running the audio via HDMI and video through the receiver. Furthermore I find the Samsung remote to be woefully inadequate for cable tv and completely useless for HTPC use so the advantages of ARC according to your post are moot.
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post #3744 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 10:22 PM
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[quote=Musician;45613089]
Quote:
Originally Posted by layzzzee8 View Post
If you are watching blurays and have a true 5.1 or more setup that properly decodes Master Audio from the disc it is in your best interest to skip the ARC and run everything through the receiver to obtain the best audio quality. If you ever want to play 4K video with HD audio you will need to upgrade your receiver as it is not 4K compatible. ARC can only do regular 5.1 Dolby Digital/DTS. In my opinion it is far inferior than the Master Audio track on bluray content. If you choose not to upgrade the receiver then you must choose. 4K video with regular audio or 1080p video with HD audio.

Edit: this was in response to the_donster's post. For some reason the forum scraped the quote.[/QUOTEI have also learned today that the average lifespan of a post on this thread is about 48 hours.

Actually I am using ARC in conjunction with my HDMI 1.4 Receiver without HDCP 2.0 and since the UBD-K8500 Ultra HD Blu-ray Player provides dual outputs I can enjoy both 4K video and the high definition audio formats such as Dolby Digital TrueHD and DTS Master Audio without any of the issues you claim @The_Donster may face and have no plans on upgrading my Receiver since it's not necessary at this point.

In addition to that their are also additional Advantages to Hooking Up Devices Directly to the One Connect Box described in the following post 3638 of mine that also includes a copy of my wiring diagram...

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...l#post45558721

Cheers!
I'm going to give ARC a go and see if I run into any issues. I ended up removing the optical and HDMI's from my OCB. Then I ran my One and 360 to my receiver via HDMI and the ARC from my OCB to my receiver. Below is how I originally had it and the last two are using the ARC function. If I don't hear anymore feedback I'll start setting up the tv and let you know how the sound is once I get a chance to sit down and watch something. Thanks for everyone's assistance.

OCB Link up with Optical Cable:


ARC HDMI Link up to Onkyo Receiver:



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post #3745 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by layzzzee8 View Post
Many people (myself included) are using a HTPC or player which does not have a dual HDMI out setup. The only way to get HD Audio is by running the audio via HDMI and video through the receiver. Furthermore I find the Samsung remote to be woefully inadequate for cable tv and completely useless for HTPC use so the advantages of ARC according to your post are moot.
Whatever you say but a minute ago you were talking about a UHD Blu-ray Player but now you have canged the topic to your HTPC.

BTW If you actually took the time to read the post I provided the link to, you'd see in my reply to @The_Donster I was NOT recommending ARC so your entire reply is moot.

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post #3746 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layzzzee8 View Post
Many people (myself included) are using a HTPC or player which does not have a dual HDMI out setup. The only way to get HD Audio is by running the audio via HDMI and video through the receiver. Furthermore I find the Samsung remote to be woefully inadequate for cable tv and completely useless for HTPC use so the advantages of ARC according to your post are moot.
Whatever you say but a minute ago you were talking about a UHD Blu-ray Player but now you have canged the topic to your HTPC.

BTW If you actually took the time to read the post I provided the link to, you'd see in my reply to @The_Don eter I was NOT recommending ARC so your entire reply is moot.
Maybe you have me confused with someone else discussing a UHD Bluray player?

Edit: Sorry I read 3638 as 3686 and was commenting on that post. I'm a few beers in. Forgive me.

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post #3747 of 36732 Old 07-26-2016, 10:57 PM
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Maybe you have me confused with someone else discussing a UHD Bluray player?

Edit: Sorry I read 3638 as 3686 and was commenting on that post. I'm a few beers in. Forgive me.
No worries but just to remind you, you were talking about blu-rays and 4K video based on the following snips from your earlier post this evening to @The_Donster so easy to understand why I might have combined these points in conjunction with your concerns regarding lossy audio in my reply to you...

Quote:
If you are watching blurays and have a true 5.1 or more setup that properly decodes Master Audio from the disc it is in your best interest to skip the ARC and run everything through the receiver to obtain the best audio quality.
Quote:
If you choose not to upgrade the receiver then you must choose. 4K video with regular audio or 1080p video with HD audio.
For what it's worth my post actually was never about recommending ARC as both it and Optical cable provide virtually the same DD 5.1 sound via the One Connect Box.

This is same message I provided to @The_Donster 's questions to me last night via PM regarding ARC but I was thoughtful enough to provide him with my step-by-step guide on setting up ARC on the TV (while cautioning him that he may have to pull out the manual for his AVR since him and I don't share the same make and model).

Nor was my post intended to be a one size fits all and, as you can see by my attached wiring diagram, not all my devices are connected to the One Connect Box.

Rather it demonstrated how one can enjoy the features the Graphical User Interface and Samsung Universal Remote provides as well as allowing individual picture settings for each device connected to the One Connect Box and a word of advice that not everyone has to deep six their old A/V Receivers just yet.

On that note, if guys can't accept a different point of view and begin by telling me my posts are "moot" or twisting my words so others might believe I have them "confused with someone else" I have nothing to gain by wasting my time here.

Good evening.
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post #3748 of 36732 Old 07-27-2016, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Musician View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by layzzzee8 View Post
Maybe you have me confused with someone else discussing a UHD Bluray player?

Edit: Sorry I read 3638 as 3686 and was commenting on that post. I'm a few beers in. Forgive me.
No worries but just to remind you, you were talking about blu-rays and 4K video based on the following snips from your earlier post this evening to @The_Donster so easy to understand why I might have combined these points in conjunction with your concerns regarding lossy audio in my reply to you...

Quote:
If you are watching blurays and have a true 5.1 or more setup that properly decodes Master Audio from the disc it is in your best interest to skip the ARC and run everything through the receiver to obtain the best audio quality.
Quote:
If you choose not to upgrade the receiver then you must choose. 4K video with regular audio or 1080p video with HD audio.
For what it's worth my post actually was never about recommending ARC as both it and Optical cable provide virtually the same DD 5.1 sound via the One Connect Box.

This is same message I provided to @The_Donster 's questions to me last night via PM regarding ARC but I was thoughtful enough to provide him with my step-by-step guide on setting up ARC on the TV (while cautioning him that he may have to pull out the manual for his AVR since him and I don't share the same make and model).

Nor was my post intended to be a one size fits all and, as you can see by my attached wiring diagram, not all my devices are connected to the One Connect Box.

Rather it demonstrated how one can enjoy the features the Graphical User Interface and Samsung Universal Remote provides as well as allowing individual picture settings for each device connected to the One Connect Box and a word of advice that not everyone has to deep six their old A/V Receivers just yet.

On that note, that was my last post on this thread.

Ciao
We are both recommending the same thing. The only difference is that he was going with the Xbox S which has not been confirmed to have a dual HDMI audio output (and likely won't). My recommendations were based on his components. Bottom line is that if you don't have a 4K compatible receiver and you're not using a dual HDMI output 4K player you need to choose between 4K video and HD Audio.
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post #3749 of 36732 Old 07-27-2016, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by layzzzee8 View Post
We are both recommending the same thing. The only difference is that he was going with the Xbox S which has not been confirmed to have a dual HDMI audio output (and likely won't). My recommendations were based on his components. Bottom line is that if you don't have a 4K compatible receiver and you're not using a dual HDMI output 4K player you need to choose between 4K video and HD Audio.
Ahh, so that was his "One". I thought he was referring to the One Connect Box. Guys have to be a little more specific when creating posts so guys like me don't need a crystal ball. A wiring diagram goes a long way to this end.

With that being said he really has no choice. Although you are recommending hooking everything up to the Receiver my advice in this case would be to hook the XBox One S to the One Connect Box.

In my opinion since he owns a 4K TV I would think that a picture 4 times the resolution of 1080p would be much more important than lossless audio via 3 speakers at this point.


And just to note while you were posting I was in the midst of editing my post above as follows...

Quote:
...if guys can't accept a different point of view and begin by telling me my posts are "moot" or twisting my words so others might believe I have them "confused with someone else" I have nothing to gain by wasting my time here.
Cheers!

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post #3750 of 36732 Old 07-27-2016, 12:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layzzzee8 View Post
We are both recommending the same thing. The only difference is that he was going with the Xbox S which has not been confirmed to have a dual HDMI audio output (and likely won't). My recommendations were based on his components. Bottom line is that if you don't have a 4K compatible receiver and you're not using a dual HDMI output 4K player you need to choose between 4K video and HD Audio.
Ahh, so that was his "One". I thought he was referring to the One Connect Box. Guys havevto be a little more specific when creating posts so guys like me don't need a crystal ball.

With that being said he really has no choice. Although you are recommending hooking everything up to the Receiver my advice in this case would be to hook the XBox One S to the One Connect Box.

In my opinion since he owns a 4K TV I would think think a picture 4 times the resolution of 1080p would be much more important than lossless audio via 3 speakers at this point.


And just to note while you were posting I was in the midst of editing my post above as follows...

Quote:
...if guys can't accept a different point of view and begin by telling me my posts are "moot" or twisting my words so others might believe I have them "confused with someone else" I have nothing to gain by wasting my time here.
Cheers!

Again. My "moot" point was based on another post which was not yours. Apologies again.
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