Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 221 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6601 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Jones View Post
It's been one week of enjoying this ks8000 65 tv. Best tv I've ever owned..
Is it just me or does sports mode look too colorful?
standard picture mode seems to be the best for everything.. (Movie mode looks so dull)
And I love the remote.. my home security camera systems are on HDMI 2 so a quick voice command puts them on the tv..

Am I missing much by NOT doing the R tings settings for the picture?



Go FSU

In my opinion yes but you have to set it the way you like. The Rtings set up is a good baseline because it gets your TV where it's reproducing the picture as accurately as the original content intended. Movie mode is the best and rather than warm2 I used Warm 1 because it seemed more natural to me. I would use the Rtings as your baseline and make minor changes from there. You can play with the contrast and backlight some to taylor the brightness.
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post #6602 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Jones View Post
It's been one week of enjoying this ks8000 65 tv. Best tv I've ever owned..
Is it just me or does sports mode look too colorful?
standard picture mode seems to be the best for everything.. (Movie mode looks so dull)
And I love the remote.. my home security camera systems are on HDMI 2 so a quick voice command puts them on the tv..

Am I missing much by NOT doing the R tings settings for the picture?



Go FSU
Welcome! Glad you are having a good experience. Most of us are.

Sports washes out colors as does Dynamic. Movie is good for a dark room. Try HDR+ under Special Viewing Mode. You'll be glad you did!
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Originally Posted by Rheylew View Post
Greetings All,

Does anyone know where to find the Las Vegas 4K demo that runs on the Sony tv's in Best Buy? That demo almost made me buy a sony, the blacks looked like they were completely off, they had it next to an LG Oled and they were comparable. I asked the Best Buy guy if he could run that demo on the Samsung KS8000, but he said he couldn't because the demos were built in (which i seriously doubt) and that Samsung is known for showing off their brights, so they don't have demos showcasing deep blacks. However Rtings rated this tv better than the Sony X930d in blacks, just trying to find that file to throw on a portable hd. (I have checked demo-uhd3d.com) Also, are the 4K demos that you can download any better than the 4K demos on youtube, I would imagine youtube 4K is still compressed..

My tv will be here on Weds, can't wait!
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post #6603 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by leedesert View Post
In my opinion yes but you have to set it the way you like. The Rtings set up is a good baseline because it gets your TV where it's reproducing the picture as accurately as the original content intended. Movie mode is the best and rather than warm2 I used Warm 1 because it seemed more natural to me. I would use the Rtings as your baseline and make minor changes from there. You can play with the contrast and backlight some to taylor the brightness.
Thank you for reply, sounds good!
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post #6604 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 06:24 PM
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Can anyone help me out with the TiVo Bolt connected to the 55KS8000? I've tried everything I can think of to get this to work with this set but have failed miserably. I can't get it to display anything, it just acts as if there is no source video. I've tried several different HDMI cables rated for 4K, power cycling the TiVo, wiping the TiVo, resetting the TV, different HDMI ports on the One Connect Box. Everything else I plug into the TV works fine (PS4, Laptop, etc.), just not the TiVo Bolt. It will work when I connect it to a 1080p set, just not the new Sammy.


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post #6605 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 06:31 PM
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Hdmi 2.2

Do I need HDMI 2.2 for both the TV and a UBD 8500? I notice I have 2.0 even though I thought I was getting 2.2. I am getting a lot of stuttering on the DVD player.

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post #6606 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 06:50 PM
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Revisiting the topic of Auto vs Native setting here again.

According to this page I found from a Samsung website

http://www.samsung.com/ca/support/skp/faq/1059112


It sounds like the Auto setting is there for when watches regular HD Blu Rays that use REC. 709 color space since according to that website some people may not like the native mode for such content since it expands the color gamut wider and as such the auto will make sure UHD and HD blu rays conform to their proper color space.

All great and good...... BUT

However as many of you already know if one is watching a UHD Blu Ray switching between Native and Auto results in drastic differences in color saturation where the Auto appears to be more "colorful" and the native a bit more "muted"

I would think that for UHD content one shouldn't see a difference between the two settings then from the way they describe it but there's a big huge difference.

maybe @King Richard is needed to be summoned for this one!!

Last edited by the7mcs; 09-05-2016 at 06:58 PM.
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post #6607 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rnrexpress3423 View Post
So I logged out all of the devices and users on my Netflix account. Now when I start the Netflix on the TV, it gets stuck at the Netflix icon and the icon just continues to spin.. I can't access anything so I can log out. Any reason for this? Help? Thanks guys.

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Unplug your tv for a 1min then plug it back in should fix it.
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post #6608 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyterio View Post
Can anyone help me out with the TiVo Bolt connected to the 55KS8000? I've tried everything I can think of to get this to work with this set but have failed miserably. I can't get it to display anything, it just acts as if there is no source video. I've tried several different HDMI cables rated for 4K, power cycling the TiVo, wiping the TiVo, resetting the TV, different HDMI ports on the One Connect Box. Everything else I plug into the TV works fine (PS4, Laptop, etc.), just not the TiVo Bolt. It will work when I connect it to a 1080p set, just not the new Sammy.


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I have no issues with my tivo Pro. I plugged just a regular hdmi cable from the tivo out hdmi port and into the quick connect box hdmi #1.
I have another regular hdmi cable going from the hdmi #4 (arc) port on the quick connect box to my soundbar (which is also my amp) hdmi "in" ARC port.

Tivo has always worked great with this tv!

You might also try clicking on source on the tivo and while the tivo is powered on . . . click on each input 1,2 and 3 no matter what its labeled.

I'd call samsung customer support for this issue as it sound like they need to reset something or they can walk you through the connections again in case you missed something obvious like I usually do.

Then if everything checks out on the tv end call tivo support as they can help you further isolate your issue.

If you get a rep that speaks poor english or sounds like they dont have a clue, just hang up and call back again.

Please report back as I'd like to know what the resolution was.

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post #6609 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 08:25 PM
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I don't have any uhd sources hooked up, but is there a downfall to having HDMI UHD enabled? Seems like even If I did have a UHD player, not everything going through it would be UHD.

Also, what is everyone recommending for the smart LED settings?
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post #6610 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 08:28 PM
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How is the game mode looks like compared to vivid mode. I am waiting for the tv to be delivered. Does playing the games on game mode dialed down colors or looks washed out compared to vivid mode?

Is it possible to set the game mode + Vivid HDR?
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post #6611 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidMauger View Post
Do I need HDMI 2.2 for both the TV and a UBD 8500? I notice I have 2.0 even though I thought I was getting 2.2. I am getting a lot of stuttering on the DVD player.

There is no such thing as HDMI 2.2. The current (highest) HDMI spec for TVs is HDMI 2.0a (there is an HDMI 2.0b out, but not available on any TVs).

You are confusing HDMI with HDCP (not the same thing). HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection) is a form of digital copy protection developed by Intel Corporation to prevent copying of digital audio and video content as it travels across connections. The current HDCP spec is 2.2 (has been for a while now).


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post #6612 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
There is no such thing as HDMI 2.2. The current (highest) HDMI spec for TVs is HDMI 2.0a (there is an HDMI 2.0b out, but not available on any TVs).

You are confusing HDMI with HDCP (not the same thing). HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection) is a form of digital copy protection developed by Intel Corporation to prevent copying of digital audio and video content as it travels across connections. The current HDCP spec is 2.2 (has been for a while now).


Richard


Thank You.
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post #6613 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by shift_grind View Post
I don't have any uhd sources hooked up, but is there a downfall to having HDMI UHD enabled? Seems like even If I did have a UHD player, not everything going through it would be UHD.

Only enable it for the HDMI input that your UHD player is connected to.

As to leaving it ON all the time (even when not outputting a 10-bit UHD signal), as long as you don't have any picture or sound issues, you can leave it ON all the time - it won't hurt anything.


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Originally Posted by shift_grind View Post
Also, what is everyone recommending for the smart LED settings?

This setting controls the TV’s 'local dimming' feature. I recommend that you leave it ON all the time.

For SDR content, I recommend the "Standard" setting (but you can play around with this one - on my 2015 JS9000, I have it set to "High").

The "High" setting is usually recommended for most HDR content.


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post #6614 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by the7mcs View Post
Revisiting the topic of Auto vs Native setting here again.

It sounds like the Auto setting is there for when watches regular HD Blu Rays that use REC. 709 color space since according to that website some people may not like the native mode for such content since it expands the color gamut wider and as such the auto will make sure UHD and HD blu rays conform to their proper color space.

However as many of you already know if one is watching a UHD Blu Ray switching between Native and Auto results in drastic differences in color saturation where the Auto appears to be more "colorful" and the native a bit more "muted"

I would think that for UHD content one shouldn't see a difference between the two settings then from the way they describe it but there's a big huge difference.

maybe @King Richard is needed to be summoned for this one!!

Well according to @ray0414 and @WiFi-Spy (Tyler Pruitt - Technical Liaison at SpectraCal) the "Auto" setting seems to be properly tracking and mapping the BT.2020 Color Space (used by UHD content e.g. UHD Blu-rays).

@ray0414 mentioned in another thread that, from what he's heard, the "Native" setting appears to be incorrectly mapping the content to the P3 Color Space instead. (Maybe he can chime-in on this.)

Therefore, you should set it to "Auto" for HDR content.

P.S. You can always leave it on "Auto" for all content.


Richard
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post #6615 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
Well according to @ray0414 and @WiFi-Spy (Tyler Pruitt - Technical Liaison at SpectraCal) the "Auto" setting seems to be properly tracking and mapping the BT.2020 Color Space (used by UHD content e.g. UHD Blu-rays).

@ray0414 mentioned in another thread that, from what he's heard, the "Native" setting appears to be incorrectly mapping the content to the P3 Color Space instead. (Maybe he can chime-in on this.)

Therefore, you should set it to "Auto" for HDR content.

P.S. You can always leave it on "Auto" for all content.


Richard


Auto/custom for HDR.

Native will look dull/flat because it's not using the largest color space.

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post #6616 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 11:07 PM
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Should we be using color space "native" when gaming on either the Xbox one or ps4? I know Rtings says use it for HDR content.


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post #6617 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 11:30 PM
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Should we be using color space "native" when gaming on either the Xbox one or ps4? I know Rtings says use it for HDR content.

No, leave it on "Auto" for HDR (BT.2020) content.

For non-HDR (SDR/BT.709) content, you can either leave it on "Auto" or, if you enjoy a bit more "pop" to your colors, you can always set it to "Native" - however, it is important for you to understand that the colors will no longer be accurate (some of the colors will be over-saturated).


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post #6618 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 11:30 PM
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Anyone interested in the 55ks8000 can get it from ABT.com for $1179 no tax/free shipping if you call in and ask about an additional $100 discount. At least it worked for me today, seemed like a decent deal.


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post #6619 of 37149 Old 09-05-2016, 11:35 PM
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You can name Rtings, but not the name of the "other" sites? Post those reviews please.


I wonder if he is taking about CNET...? I dunno.


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post #6620 of 37149 Old 09-06-2016, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by kisypher View Post
Anyone interested in the 55ks8000 can get it from ABT.com for $1179 no tax/free shipping if you call in and ask about an additional $100 discount. At least it worked for me today, seemed like a decent deal.


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Sounds like a similar deal that I took advantage of with my 65" KS8000. Keep an eye out on the prices once you receive your flatscreen kisypher and have them price match the lowest price. By the time my 30 days was over I got it knocked down another $100 dollars and would recommend anyone ordering from them to hit them $200 below the sales price. The closer it gets to the end of the month, the easier it might be to get them to blink. Buying electronics or anything else is no different than buying a car. Never buy anything, unless it is a great sale, at the beginning of the month
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Living Room: LG 55LE5500 Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360 w/Kinect
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post #6621 of 37149 Old 09-06-2016, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by The_Donster View Post
Sounds like a similar deal that I took advantage of with my 65" KS8000. Keep an eye out on the prices once you receive your flatscreen kisypher and have them price match the lowest price. By the time my 30 days was over I got it knocked down another $100 dollars and would recommend anyone ordering from them to hit them $200 below the sales price. The closer it gets to the end of the month, the easier it might be to get them to blink. Buying electronics or anything else is no different than buying a car. Never buy anything, unless it is a great sale, at the beginning of the month


Sage advice. I'll keep my eye on the price over the next 30 days.


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post #6622 of 37149 Old 09-06-2016, 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Cyterio View Post
Can anyone help me out with the TiVo Bolt connected to the 55KS8000? I've tried everything I can think of to get this to work with this set but have failed miserably. I can't get it to display anything, it just acts as if there is no source video. I've tried several different HDMI cables rated for 4K, power cycling the TiVo, wiping the TiVo, resetting the TV, different HDMI ports on the One Connect Box. Everything else I plug into the TV works fine (PS4, Laptop, etc.), just not the TiVo Bolt. It will work when I connect it to a 1080p set, just not the new Sammy.


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I certainly can't help you, but I will tell you I've had a bunch of frustration from my Tivo Bolt with my new 65KS8000. I had to plug the Bolt directly into the OCB, which I do not like. And I had to use an optical cable, even though I'm using HDMI4 and my receiver has ARC. When I plugged the Bolt into the receiver, I could only get sound, if I recall correctly - no video. No matter what I did.

I have a Denon x2200. I am also having an issue with the Xbox One S. If I plug it into the OCB directly, the 4K settings work and everything seems okay. If I plug the Xbox into the Denon, it doesn't accept the 4K settings, even though it checks off all the boxes. I can't understand any of it. I don't know if my receiver (which is brand new) is faulty, or I'm doing something wrong, but it's made my experience with my new TV frustrating. Plus, last night my sources all disappeared (as posters above described), which was unholy. I suppose I'll try rebooting it tomorrow.
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post #6623 of 37149 Old 09-06-2016, 03:23 AM
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So, the last week has been extremely stressful and Friday night/Saturday morning I had my Michael Douglas in Falling Down moment.

The delivery of my 65" KS8000 was scheduled for Friday, with a 4 hour delivery window set between 12-4pm. It's crunch time at work, lots of OT, I had to leave at 4pm sharp as I instructed both the ebay store and the dispatcher for the shipping company. The TV is shipped on a pallet, a liftgate truck delivery, signature is required. At 4:05pm, I am already pissed, locking my door requires both arms so I set my coffee mug on the stair case rail, down the stairs comes my neighbor, let's call him the Flailing Arms man and knocks over my coffee, spilling all of it. Some granny is having a moment causing a jam at an intersection. I had to drive like an absolute maniac to compensate for the loss of time, had a close call as well. I manage to barely clock in on time, only to begin work on a disastrous day at work worst in the last 5 years at least. I somehow made it through the mandatory OT day, just about to start my weekend when the supervisors come up to me and drop forced OT on me, making me stay longer or face disciplinary actions if I leave. I stayed the extra overtime, without causing harm to anything or anyone.

5:05 am and I finally clock out, if rage was detectable in the visual spectrum, you would have observed mine from outer space. I drive home at half the speed I drove into work with and it's still above the speed limit. * me if I haven't reached for the empty coffee mug at least 50 times. There is a cloud following me home. I finally park, get out and as I turn the corner, I see the TV. The driver just left it at the curb. I'm instantly energized and I manage to get the beast up the stairway. I unpack it and... the screen has a crack across the entire screen, The frame is bent at the top and there are scratches too.

I sat down and let an email to customer support write itself, luckily I edited 80% out just before I sent it. 5 minutes later, the ebay store accepted the return.

I wonder why the universe doesn't want me to use the computer at a 3840x2160 resolution. This was my third attempt to buy a 4K display. I first bought a 55" monitor, twice, both got severely damaged on their way in from S. Korea

The 65" KS8000 is now $100 cheaper than when I first tried to buy one but I find myself having doubts now despite being able to get it for even less. My goal is to move the PC to the living room, I started out with a $1000 budget for a large monitor, once I exhausted that option I started looking at more expensive yet mostly worse performing TV's in terms of input lag.
I've settled on a KS8000 as best compromise in terms of input lag, image quality, size and price. However, BF is coming soon, OLED's are about to come down in price as well. Introduction of 8K TV's and newest monitors should open the doors for 4K/60Hz+ options. Right now, the only piece of hardware on the market that's DP 1.3 & 1.4 compliant is Nvidia's latest GPU lineup but that should change soon, 4K/120Hz options should start appearing soon. On one hand, I just want to make the 4K jump already and be done with it. On the other, display decision is a long term one, I might be better off waiting a little while, 4K/120 sounds future proof to me. What to do, what to do...
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post #6624 of 37149 Old 09-06-2016, 03:42 AM
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So, the last week has been extremely stressful and Friday night/Saturday morning I had my Michael Douglas in Falling Down moment.

The delivery of my 65" KS8000 was scheduled for Friday, with a 4 hour delivery window set between 12-4pm. It's crunch time at work, lots of OT, I had to leave at 4pm sharp as I instructed both the ebay store and the dispatcher for the shipping company. The TV is shipped on a pallet, a liftgate truck delivery, signature is required. At 4:05pm, I am already pissed, locking my door requires both arms so I set my coffee mug on the stair case rail, down the stairs comes my neighbor, let's call him the Flailing Arms man and knocks over my coffee, spilling all of it. Some granny is having a moment causing a jam at an intersection. I had to drive like an absolute maniac to compensate for the loss of time, had a close call as well. I manage to barely clock in on time, only to begin work on a disastrous day at work worst in the last 5 years at least. I somehow made it through the mandatory OT day, just about to start my weekend when the supervisors come up to me and drop forced OT on me, making me stay longer or face disciplinary actions if I leave. I stayed the extra overtime, without causing harm to anything or anyone.

5:05 am and I finally clock out, if rage was detectable in the visual spectrum, you would have observed mine from outer space. I drive home at half the speed I drove into work with and it's still above the speed limit. * me if I haven't reached for the empty coffee mug at least 50 times. There is a cloud following me home. I finally park, get out and as I turn the corner, I see the TV. The driver just left it at the curb. I'm instantly energized and I manage to get the beast up the stairway. I unpack it and... the screen has a crack across the entire screen, The frame is bent at the top and there are scratches too.

I sat down and let an email to customer support write itself, luckily I edited 80% out just before I sent it. 5 minutes later, the ebay store accepted the return.

I wonder why the universe doesn't want me to use the computer at a 3840x2160 resolution. This was my third attempt to buy a 4K display. I first bought a 55" monitor, twice, both got severely damaged on their way in from S. Korea

The 65" KS8000 is now $100 cheaper than when I first tried to buy one but I find myself having doubts now despite being able to get it for even less. My goal is to move the PC to the living room, I started out with a $1000 budget for a large monitor, once I exhausted that option I started looking at more expensive yet mostly worse performing TV's in terms of input lag.
I've settled on a KS8000 as best compromise in terms of input lag, image quality, size and price. However, BF is coming soon, OLED's are about to come down in price as well. Introduction of 8K TV's and newest monitors should open the doors for 4K/60Hz+ options. Right now, the only piece of hardware on the market that's DP 1.3 & 1.4 compliant is Nvidia's latest GPU lineup but that should change soon, 4K/120Hz options should start appearing soon. On one hand, I just want to make the 4K jump already and be done with it. On the other, display decision is a long term one, I might be better off waiting a little while, 4K/120 sounds future proof to me. What to do, what to do...
Two words . . . .1 Lithium . . . .2 BestBuy
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post #6625 of 37149 Old 09-06-2016, 04:34 AM
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I don't have any uhd sources hooked up, but is there a downfall to having HDMI UHD enabled? Seems like even If I did have a UHD player, not everything going through it would be UHD.

Also, what is everyone recommending for the smart LED settings?
As described on their site and in their manual, the only thing turning on UHD for a specific HDMI input does is open up all format levels.

It doesn't make sense to me why they even have that as an option. Why would you turn that off just to limit your possible input formats for UHD? I haven't seen where having it on for none UHD sources causes any problems. I would think it could, since they allow you to turn in on/off, but I haven't seen it nor heard of any.
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post #6626 of 37149 Old 09-06-2016, 04:46 AM
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To those who purchased their Sammy from Costco.

The $200 price drop is valid and they will reimburse you the difference but here are some tips.

BRING YOUR RECIEPT!

When I first went up to customer service I spoke with the rep and I forgot my receipt but fortunately I purchased it on my Costco Visa card. They looked up the purchase but then the girl proceeded to tell me to get reimbursed for a price drop it had to be within 2 weeks of the purchase. I told her according to Costco's website it's 30 days and then she said that's only when purchased online. I then educated her that the site specifically states it's 30 days and then describes how to get reimbursed for store or online purchases. At this point she got kind of a passive attitude and said "well, it's going to take a manager to override that". She then started telling me about the last people she helped that were past the 2 week period so I interrupted her and said "please get the manager".

She did and once he arrived he brought up my account, processed a $200 refund + tax, and said you should see the return on your credit card after a day or two. I advised him that he may want to inform his rep on that policy. He said he would talk with her.

The moral of the story is don't go by what some rep tells you when you've researched the facts yourself. Sometimes (many times) people get put in a particular position and feel that as a result they have to be the expert on everything, even if they have to make it up on the fly.

Samsung 65KS-8000 VAA02, Xfinity X1 DVR, Xbox One X, Samsung UBD-K8500
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post #6627 of 37149 Old 09-06-2016, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by axb2016 View Post
So, the last week has been extremely stressful and Friday night/Saturday morning I had my Michael Douglas in Falling Down moment.



The delivery of my 65" KS8000 was scheduled for Friday, with a 4 hour delivery window set between 12-4pm. It's crunch time at work, lots of OT, I had to leave at 4pm sharp as I instructed both the ebay store and the dispatcher for the shipping company. The TV is shipped on a pallet, a liftgate truck delivery, signature is required. At 4:05pm, I am already pissed, locking my door requires both arms so I set my coffee mug on the stair case rail, down the stairs comes my neighbor, let's call him the Flailing Arms man and knocks over my coffee, spilling all of it. Some granny is having a moment causing a jam at an intersection. I had to drive like an absolute maniac to compensate for the loss of time, had a close call as well. I manage to barely clock in on time, only to begin work on a disastrous day at work worst in the last 5 years at least. I somehow made it through the mandatory OT day, just about to start my weekend when the supervisors come up to me and drop forced OT on me, making me stay longer or face disciplinary actions if I leave. I stayed the extra overtime, without causing harm to anything or anyone.



5:05 am and I finally clock out, if rage was detectable in the visual spectrum, you would have observed mine from outer space. I drive home at half the speed I drove into work with and it's still above the speed limit. * me if I haven't reached for the empty coffee mug at least 50 times. There is a cloud following me home. I finally park, get out and as I turn the corner, I see the TV. The driver just left it at the curb. I'm instantly energized and I manage to get the beast up the stairway. I unpack it and... the screen has a crack across the entire screen, The frame is bent at the top and there are scratches too.



I sat down and let an email to customer support write itself, luckily I edited 80% out just before I sent it. 5 minutes later, the ebay store accepted the return.



I wonder why the universe doesn't want me to use the computer at a 3840x2160 resolution. This was my third attempt to buy a 4K display. I first bought a 55" monitor, twice, both got severely damaged on their way in from S. Korea



The 65" KS8000 is now $100 cheaper than when I first tried to buy one but I find myself having doubts now despite being able to get it for even less. My goal is to move the PC to the living room, I started out with a $1000 budget for a large monitor, once I exhausted that option I started looking at more expensive yet mostly worse performing TV's in terms of input lag.

I've settled on a KS8000 as best compromise in terms of input lag, image quality, size and price. However, BF is coming soon, OLED's are about to come down in price as well. Introduction of 8K TV's and newest monitors should open the doors for 4K/60Hz+ options. Right now, the only piece of hardware on the market that's DP 1.3 & 1.4 compliant is Nvidia's latest GPU lineup but that should change soon, 4K/120Hz options should start appearing soon. On one hand, I just want to make the 4K jump already and be done with it. On the other, display decision is a long term one, I might be better off waiting a little while, 4K/120 sounds future proof to me. What to do, what to do...


Sorry about your delivery woes. I agree with Expidia that you should try Best Buy with their white glove service.

I hear you that tech continues to upgrade, but if you play that game then you will always be waiting for the next "future-proofing" feature. Today it's HDR, tomorrow it's 120hz, after that... ? I think you made the right choice in jumping on 4K now.

One question: what's "BF"?
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post #6628 of 37149 Old 09-06-2016, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leedesert View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by shift_grind View Post
I don't have any uhd sources hooked up, but is there a downfall to having HDMI UHD enabled? Seems like even If I did have a UHD player, not everything going through it would be UHD.

Also, what is everyone recommending for the smart LED settings?
As described on their site and in their manual, the only thing turning on UHD for a specific HDMI input does is open up all format levels.

It doesn't make sense to me why they even have that as an option. Why would you turn that off just to limit your possible input formats for UHD? I haven't seen where having it on for none UHD sources causes any problems. I would think it could, since they allow you to turn in on/off, but I haven't seen it nor heard of any.
I have 1 problem and it's the only one. With UHD enabled on the only HDMI input I use I get no sound from my cable box until I turn it off. I have no idea why this is but using an optical cable fixes this Or as I am currently doing running the cable box through my Xbox One S. Neither is a big deal to me as for right now we are not getting any immersive audio from cable but just figured I'd mention it as one problem I have encountered as far as leaving UHD enabled if not needed.
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post #6629 of 37149 Old 09-06-2016, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by frisbfreek View Post
Sorry about your delivery woes. I agree with Expidia that you should try Best Buy with their white glove service.

I hear you that tech continues to upgrade, but if you play that game then you will always be waiting for the next "future-proofing" feature. Today it's HDR, tomorrow it's 120hz, after that... ? I think you made the right choice in jumping on 4K now.

One question: what's "BF"?
It's a USA sales day, Black Friday, usually a few good deals among many bad like every year.
I don't want to derail the thread with irrelevant niche needs I as PC user want to have met, when they barely concern others and there are better places in the forum to discuss them anyway.

KS8000 is a really good TV, it beat everything else I looked at in the sub $2k price bracket. I paid via Paypal which gave me 6 months 0% interest.
In order to buy it again that way, I have to wait til this one is returned. That gives me time to think it over some more.

I dislike Best Buy because of their prices and honestly I don't like paying the state tax either (~$150 for the 65"KS8000) and because of their employees giving me tech related speeches that are factually incorrect.

The ebay seller offers a white glove delivery service (no setup though, which is fine for me) and has a 100% feedback rating, even with thousands of transactions. Once the paypal credit is restored, I'll think about it again. It's two things I'm concerned with, first is what are the odds of a 65" OLED dropping to ~$2k come BF and the second is, with OEM's at Computex already showing off 4K/60Hz+ prototypes, is it too late to invest nearly $2k into 4K/60...
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post #6630 of 37149 Old 09-06-2016, 06:35 AM
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I don't see the LG 65" OLED's dropping to $2K or less even on a crazy BF deal.
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