Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 310 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9271 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 123go View Post
What are the other factors that influences the knit levels
These, I think:




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post #9272 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 07:14 AM
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Judder and Pixelation

I've had the 55KS8000 for a week and a half. Have spent much time trying to get the color right and it's getting there. I've noticed degradation off-axis which many have identified and could live with that.

What I have a hard time accepting is the pixelation during fast motion and the judder on bottom scrolls like on the news channels. Specifically, CNBC's crawl at the bottom stops, starts and blurs like crazy. I tried customizing the Auto Motion settings, playing with all options, but no matter what I do that crawl still has the issue. And when that gets a bit better, some others worsen. Plus, I don't like SOE so I don't want to have those settings too high.

Anyone else susceptible to this, and if so, what settings changes have you made? Has anyone returned this set for those reasons? I'm actually considering trying the LG UH8500 both from a viewing angle and pixelation/judder perspective. I may have to bite the bullet and shell out for the OLED.

Thanks.
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post #9273 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 07:18 AM
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how to get sony like colors from the tv? esp red and blue
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post #9274 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 07:25 AM
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I want a TV for HDR gaming....would y'all go with the KS8000 or JS8500? Will the JS8500 display HDR10 as well as the KS8000?
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post #9275 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by jtsuth View Post
Hey I just got the KS8000 a couple weeks ago and when watching content on the Amazon Prime app, the content appears squished and fills up the entire screen I go to change the aspect ratio and it never commits to the change I make. Has anyone else encountered this? I can't seem to manually change the aspect ratio on the TV regardless of when I go to it even just to test that it works properly. Also, I used the Amazon Prime app on the Xbox One and the squished appearance doesn't occur nor does the video take up the entire screen. It's almost like it forcing the video to fit to the screen. Any ideas? Thanks
You are not alone. This is either a patch that Samsung or Amazon must make. No issues on Netflix or You Tube.
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post #9276 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by AwesomeAHlee View Post
how to get sony like colors from the tv? esp red and blue
I had no idea Sony was a color!

Honestly, I don't know what this means. A Sony TV can produce colors. It can produce a good picture. It can also produce a bad picture. Same goes with Samsung TVs.
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post #9277 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 08:35 AM
 
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Originally Posted by samsterdog View Post
I've had the 55KS8000 for a week and a half. Have spent much time trying to get the color right and it's getting there. I've noticed degradation off-axis which many have identified and could live with that.

What I have a hard time accepting is the pixelation during fast motion and the judder on bottom scrolls like on the news channels. Specifically, CNBC's crawl at the bottom stops, starts and blurs like crazy. I tried customizing the Auto Motion settings, playing with all options, but no matter what I do that crawl still has the issue. And when that gets a bit better, some others worsen. Plus, I don't like SOE so I don't want to have those settings too high.

Anyone else susceptible to this, and if so, what settings changes have you made? Has anyone returned this set for those reasons? I'm actually considering trying the LG UH8500 both from a viewing angle and pixelation/judder perspective. I may have to bite the bullet and shell out for the OLED.

Thanks.
This has been brought up a bunch but to save you hundreds of pages of reading, it may be your source feeding the tv which isn't up to par...just something to look into are the settings of the stb or hd receiver you're using.
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post #9278 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by why-me View Post
This has been brought up a bunch but to save you hundreds of pages of reading, it may be your source feeding the tv which isn't up to par...just something to look into are the settings of the stb or hd receiver you're using.
Yeah, I've thought about that and read many posts on this thread. I have BrightHouse cable and they don't have 1080p, just 1080i and 720p. I have had signal issues in the past, but the levels look fine when I go into their settings. I'm coming out of a Pioneer Kuro plasma and never had these issues using the same STB.

I may try the LG UH85000 just to see if there's any improvement, but from what you're saying, that may not resolve the issues.
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post #9279 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 123go View Post
so is there a good starting point for the colors calibrations in custom colors ?
I just use the rtings.com settings but did it on Standard PQ as I like it better.

Then i tweaked more of the simple settings to my liking. e.g Auto Motion, Active LED etc
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post #9280 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 08:56 AM
 
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Originally Posted by samsterdog View Post
Yeah, I've thought about that and read many posts on this thread. I have BrightHouse cable and they don't have 1080p, just 1080i and 720p. I have had signal issues in the past, but the levels look fine when I go into their settings. I'm coming out of a Pioneer Kuro plasma and never had these issues using the same STB.

I may try the LG UH85000 just to see if there's any improvement, but from what you're saying, that may not resolve the issues.
it's possible but it seems to me that the higher definition and clearer picture the panel can make the easier it is for you to see those flaws in the source feeding it.
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post #9281 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by WizeGuyDezignz View Post
Thank you so much for the input! It helped me understand all the connections better. So here are my findings based on your feedback:

1. My soundbar does not pass UHD through the HDMI out. I tried it, and while it completely solved the audio delay issue, my TV only displayed 1080p. My soundbar is a Samsung HW-J550 for reference.

2. Because of #1 above, I connected an optical cable from my Xbox One S to the soundbar as you suggested. But I'm not entirely sure the audio is coming from the optical cable if that makes sense. Because I also still have an HDMI cable coming out of my soundbar and going into the HDMI 4 ARC port on the One Connect box. Because I still need that cable for ARC, correct? When I went into my Xbox One S audio settings, I turned off audio from HDMI and turned on audio from optical to try and "force" the audio to come from the optical cable. But when I did that, I lost sound completely and my soundbar displayed something along the lines of "S Mute". I went into the TV settings and tried to change the audio source to optical but that didn't help. What am I doing wrong? With all of that being said, since I connected the optical audio cable, the audio delay seems much better, if not almost perfect. But I'm not sure if it's in my head or not so I was wondering if I did anything wrong.

Any help would be appreciated, thank you!
1. Run the Xbox One S directly to TV on HDMI.. leave the default audio on HDMI

2. Run Optical cable from TV optical output to soundbar optical input. Set the Samsung audio setting output to Optical, and set the soundbar audio input to Optical

Your soundbar will now work for for all sound coming from the TV, such as the Xbox and all the apps installed on the TV.
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post #9282 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by why-me View Post
Would you think the spears & munsil HD benchmark would be good enough? I understand that's 1080p blu-ray and not 4k or hdr but most content I'll be watching isn't 4k anyway. Is the panel close enough I don't even need to use the disc?
I bought and used the Spears & Munsil from Amazon. I ended up using some significantly different settings in some areas based on the results of the test screens on the disc. Was it worth the price? I'm not entirely convinced. Knowing now what kinds of screens are on the disc, I think most (if not all) have free counterparts available. I'd love if someone could correct me and tell me the benefit of the Spears & Munsil versions so I don't feel so bad about the purchase. I plan to take the disc with me to friends and family houses and offer some amateur calibration to get more value out of it.

My next step is a more professional calibration purchase (Calman and such), but I do feel better knowing I'm not just using someone else's settings. I'm using accurate settings for my set (65KS800D) and my eyes (set of two).
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post #9283 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by frisbfreek View Post
Yes, I didn't anticipate a LUT changing his signal. With that, all bets are off on any settings alignment with anyone else here.

I wasn't making issue of targeting a specific peak brightness but rather the crushed blacks at his setting. imagic's settings all use a brightness of 45, which is very much in the range of what I would think people are using. If you set your TV's brightness to 13 (without a LUT), you'll see what I'm talking about.
I'm with you 100%. I didn't post, but had the same thoughts as you when he first posted Brightness 13. There's just no way Brightness 13 looks good without something else in the signal path.

I can't say I've tested in Standard mode and don't know if there's any difference compared to Movie mode when it comes to clipping, but one thing is for sure. Without something else in the signal path, Movie mode with Brightness 13 has some seriously crushed blacks, as you said.

For the regular user who doesn't have calibration equipment or a LUT, I can't see any reason not to use Movie mode with Brightness 45 and Contrast 95 (or 100 if I'm the only person who gets pinks instead of grays at 100, but I don't think I am) if they want an accurate picture. If it seems dull, Warm1 livens things up without messing up the colors too much.
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post #9284 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 09:24 AM
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p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; } HELP! i HAVE THIS QUESTION BUT NOT SURE THIS IS THE PLACE TO POST IT



Re: The 55KS8000


I have a mp4 video on a flash drive.
1 Will this TV play it?
2 Do I use the USB port on the TV or the connect 1 box or either?
3 Can I use a 18 in. good quality extension cable?
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post #9285 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by dwaleke View Post
Windows desktop is only 8 bit.

You can get 10 bit video with madvr using directx 11 full screen exclusive mode.

You can also get 10 bit in Adobe applications with an expensive quadro video card (or equivalent amd pro card).

4:2:2 will always look blurry compared to 4:4:4 when it comes to desktop text regardless of 8 bit vs 10 bit.
Thanks, so the only benefits you can squeeze out is 10 bit 4:2:0 HDR video and gaming, i'm correct?
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post #9286 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 09:46 AM
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Thanks, so the only benefits you can squeeze out is 10 bit 4:2:0 HDR video and gaming, i'm correct?
I'm not 100% sure, but there may be a benefit to using 10-bit output with MadVR even with an 8-bit input video. I can see a theoretical advantage to 10-bit color when MadVR is dithering or if you take advantage of the "Reduce Banding Artifacts" functionality of MadVR (which works really well in my experience). I can't say I've tested to see if this has an actual benefit as I'm theorizing.
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post #9287 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by frisbfreek View Post
Gotcha. I suppose with a LUT in the middle, you could really do anything with the signal. Your specific calibration is still a little over my head, as I don't quite get why you couldn't calibrate to a brightness setting closer to the 40-45 range; this way your LUT would be applying a smaller change to your signal.
LUTs don't really affect brightness (other than the natural way that there's less light with different filters applied when measured.) The brightness setting is what it is to bring the brightness in line with the luminescence level needed. If I was in a bright room, luminescence would be higher and so would the backlight and brightness. The LUT corrects the colors at the brightness given and has only a minor effect on brightness. A LUT (look up table) is a translation matrix on how to take the given (standard format) input and break it into the corresponding information to suit a particular display. This is because color on a display is derived as a deviation (this is unlike print which is an absolute.) All displays have them just some are configurable by users and some aren't.
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post #9288 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 123go View Post
so is there a good starting point for the colors calibrations in custom colors ?
You can try settings from one of the "owner's thread" for your particular tv here, but while you can use many of the settings such as brightness, contrast, sharpness, etc. color (white balance and color values) is where it gets messy as it really varies per individual unit , so they might not be good, even for the same model and same size as the TV. Like I said, you can use it as a starting point and play around; just hit reset if it gets messed up.

The only way to accurately do it you need special equipment and software.
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post #9289 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 10:35 AM
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Is anyone else having a hard time finding the same wall mount bolts that The Donster mentions in his post about wall mounting (post #4302)? I can find the 40mm length version of that bolt, but not 45mm. Will the 40mm length bolt not be long enough to be secure? Help!
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post #9290 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 10:37 AM
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Has anyone else followed The Donster's post (post #4302) about wall mounting? Were you able to find the same bolts he pictures? I can find a 40mm length version of that flange cap bolt at Lowe's or Home Depot, but not a 45mm version. Help!
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post #9291 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Golf Nut View Post
Is anyone else having a hard time finding the same wall mount bolts that The Donster mentions in his post about wall mounting (post #4302)? I can find the 40mm length version of that bolt, but not 45mm. Will the 40mm length bolt not be long enough to be secure? Help!
I had an awful time at Home Depot (mostly because they have all their stock messed up.) Then I went to Orchard Supply Hardware (OSH.) I guess they have less people looking for bolts there so their stock doesn't get messed up. I measured the depth of the bolts I needed to be 47 mm using Samsung's provided spacers and measuring the thickness of the VESA plate. I got M8 50 mm socket head bolts with two washers per bolt. That makes it the perfect full depth (and you can drop a washer or add a washer depending on how thick your VESA plate is that you are bolting to.)

45 mm doesn't engage all the threads (though it probably grabs enough.)
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post #9292 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 11:03 AM
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Hey Guys,

I have had my 65KS800D for a few weeks now and I am so far very happy with it but I have two questions for everyone.

1. Does anyone have a problem or see a problem with lip-sync? I have all my HDMIs going to the one connect box and then an optical cable going to my audio receiver. The audio coming from my receiver speakers matches up perfectly with the audio from the television but I notice sometimes, especially when viewing things on my Roku, that the audio seems a little off. I have not touched any of the TVs audio settings other than telling it to only send audio through optical. My receiver is an Onkyo TX-NR515.

2. How do the TVs streaming apps compare to using a Roku? I just picked up the Roku Ultra that just came out because it now does HDR. Is this just a waste of money or do you feel the apps are better quality and update more frequently?

Thanks in advance!
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post #9293 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by smtpecolour View Post
I had an awful time at Home Depot (mostly because they have all their stock messed up.) Then I went to Orchard Supply Hardware (OSH.) I guess they have less people looking for bolts there so their stock doesn't get messed up. I measured the depth of the bolts I needed to be 47 mm using Samsung's provided spacers and measuring the thickness of the VESA plate. I got M8 50 mm socket head bolts with two washers per bolt. That makes it the perfect full depth (and you can drop a washer or add a washer depending on how thick your VESA plate is that you are bolting to.)

45 mm doesn't engage all the threads (though it probably grabs enough.)
Interesting. Thanks for this post, it sounds like I need to go longer, not shorter! I'll just have to buy an assortment to get it right I guess.

Here's the Sanus mount from Costco for my 65" KS8000:



And here is the Sanus mount from Costco for my 55" KS8000:

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post #9294 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by smtpecolour View Post
LUTs don't really affect brightness (other than the natural way that there's less light with different filters applied when measured.) The brightness setting is what it is to bring the brightness in line with the luminescence level needed. If I was in a bright room, luminescence would be higher and so would the backlight and brightness. The LUT corrects the colors at the brightness given and has only a minor effect on brightness. A LUT (look up table) is a translation matrix on how to take the given (standard format) input and break it into the corresponding information to suit a particular display. This is because color on a display is derived as a deviation (this is unlike print which is an absolute.) All displays have them just some are configurable by users and some aren't.
I have 0 experience with LUT devices, so you can take this reply with a grain of salt. However, if you claim that LUTs don't affect brightness, then I don't see how you don't get crushed blacks with the TV's Brightness set to 13, when default is 45. If you start with this graph here http://www.poynton.com/notes/brightn...ack-adjust.gif, and assuming that a default of 45 is near calibrated (the middle line) for unadulterated signal, setting a Brightness to 13 will dramatically lower that curve, resulting in crushed blacks (the lower line). If your input is not compensating with overly bright signal, then you are going to get crushed blacks. Am I missing something here?
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post #9295 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 11:38 AM
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p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; } HELP! i HAVE THIS QUESTION BUT NOT SURE THIS IS THE PLACE TO POST IT



Re: The 55KS8000


I have a mp4 video on a flash drive.
1 Will this TV play it?
2 Do I use the USB port on the TV or the connect 1 box or either?
3 Can I use a 18 in. good quality extension cable?
Please see the FAQ (first page).

What do you want to extend? Power? One Connect Box cable? HDMI? USB?
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post #9296 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by zmannr2 View Post
I want a TV for HDR gaming....would y'all go with the KS8000 or JS8500? Will the JS8500 display HDR10 as well as the KS8000?
Go with the KS8000 if you want true HDR with HDR10. even tho. it seems alot of us are having studder/double image problems when gaming. look back a couple of pages to judge yourself. I love the ks8000 looks awesome. for movies/4k blurays. and everything else. my only complain. is some games mostly sports game have a weird studder/like blur. during certain actions.
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post #9297 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 11:45 AM
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So I'm having a hell of a time getting HDMI-ARC to work correctly on my new 55KS8500...

I just bought the TV on Sunday and moved all my HDMI connections directly over from my Vizio M55-C2 (2015) that the KS8500 will be replacing and everything seemed to work great. The KS8500 found my Vizio soundbar (SB4051-C0) quickly and routed the audio to it and set up the universal remote. Everything was great for the few hours I fiddled around with the TV and watched some football.

After turning off the TV and coming back to it a few hours later, I found that the soundbar was no longer recognized. I had to go through the whole setup process again to get it working right, but then it was fine.

This has now happened every time I've turned off the TV for more than a few minutes.

Was anyone else having a similar problem that they were able to fix? Last night I swapped out the (cheap-ish) HDMI cable I was using for the soundbar with the "high speed" cable that came with my XBOX One and re-did the whole setup. I also reset the TV to factory settings and did the same for the soundbar. I'm really just hoping I don't go home to the same issue tonight.

Any advice?
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post #9298 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 11:47 AM
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Do they list any "patch notes" of what's been changed?
Ha ha ha ha ha! Pigs will fly.
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Originally Posted by GalacticMouse View Post
So I'm having a hell of a time getting HDMI-ARC to work correctly on my new 55KS8500...

I just bought the TV on Sunday and moved all my HDMI connections directly over from my Vizio M55-C2 (2015) that the KS8500 will be replacing and everything seemed to work great. The KS8500 found my Vizio soundbar (SB4051-C0) quickly and routed the audio to it and set up the universal remote. Everything was great for the few hours I fiddled around with the TV and watched some football.

After turning off the TV and coming back to it a few hours later, I found that the soundbar was no longer recognized. I had to go through the whole setup process again to get it working right, but then it was fine.

This has now happened every time I've turned off the TV for more than a few minutes.

Was anyone else having a similar problem that they were able to fix? Last night I swapped out the (cheap-ish) HDMI cable I was using for the soundbar with the "high speed" cable that came with my XBOX One and re-did the whole setup. I also reset the TV to factory settings and did the same for the soundbar. I'm really just hoping I don't go home to the same issue tonight.

Any advice?
someone on here had that issue I believe, they suggested powering on the soundbar first then the tv.
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post #9300 of 36645 Old 10-12-2016, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by why-me View Post
Never mind I talked with live chat here's the patch notes from the latest firmware update 1141
That's BS. They say EXACTLY the same for each release. Tossers.
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Samsung UE55KS8000 | Pioneer SC-LX701 | Dune HD Pro 4K | Zidoo Z9S | Apple TV 4K | Nvidia Shield TV (2019) | Samsung UBD-K8500 UHD Player
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denon s740h , extra , hdmi input , KS8000/KS8500 , no picture , one connect fail , xbox one s

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