Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 404 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12091 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert Simandl View Post
Okay, so I got the Vansky bias lighting.

https://www.amazon.com/Vansky-Lighti..._cd_al_qh_dp_t

I don't really see much direction about what the ideal settings should be. Should I set it to solid white? What brightness?

Attaching it to a KS8500 for watching at night with the lights dimmed a lot or off completely.

Thanks!

I'm currently using the exact same ones.

I leave them on "pure white" only, on the brightest setting.


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post #12092 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JediKnight4Him View Post
I have a KS9500 4K HDR Samsung and when I watch movies weather Netflix or Bly-ray in dark scenes the blacks look very grainy and not clean. Do you think my TV is jacked up or is it normal? Thanks

It could be source related.

Also, sometimes "film grain" or "video noise" is intentional.


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post #12093 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Elisha View Post
You can fine tune with 2 point or 10 point adjustment.


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Doing 2 or 10 without a meter seems like a bad idea.
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post #12094 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Rooban81 View Post
Hi, bought this TV and connected my Yamaha reciever with HDMI (ARC). I also have an external mediaplayer connected to the TV.
When I switch from DTS and Dolby Digital media on mediaplayer I have to each time go into TV settings to change the audio format. Otherwise, it plays the sound as PCM. Is there any way to get around it?

Would be nice not having to connect a separate cable from the media player to the receiver, so I do not have an extra remote etc
Unfortunately I don't know of a work around on this one either. I just change it when I need to, depending on the source.

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I always do so and assume that getting no answer means no one is inclined to be helpful. :-\ So I think in light of what you've said here, that it may be just a misunderstanding, from now on I'll attach a screenshot of the search of the thread I conducted so folks can see that I did search for the answer (perhaps with inadequate keywords since I didn't know the answer I was seeking, of course) and came up empty.
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Originally Posted by Pvi80 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by futbol90x View Post
Just ordered KS8500 65 inch and ill be mounting the tv to the wall. I read that ill need M8 1.25 x45MM (4) screws but i was wondering if the tv comes with spacers or washer for these screws to fit perfectly behind the tv? Also see the tv comes with a Input box does this box attached behind the tv?

thanks in advance
For the first q: yes , the second no
Pvi80 pretty much summed up my answer for me. Outside of the M8 bolts and the spacers that come with the television, follow the rest of your mounts instructions to the letter. I have my OCB hidden behind my receiver on a shelf, but as someone suggested, you could velcro it to the back of your set.

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An FYI to anyone ordering through Samsung. I ordered my tv nov 5 and won't be taking delivery on it until November 16. 11 days later. A long time if you ask me. Or maybe I'm just used to Amazon delivering stuff to me a day after I order it
Mine took about 11 days (7 days to ship, 4 more for my delivery window from ABT.com, doesn't seem to unreasonable.
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Official Samsung KS8000/8500 Owners Information PDF
Living Room: LG 55LE5500 Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360 w/Kinect
Bedroom: VIZIO E470VL VIZIO VSB200 Sound Bar Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360
Inner Sanctum: Samsung 65KS8000, Halo XBox One, GoW Xbox 360, Onkyo HT-S5300
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post #12095 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 08:33 PM
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reduction in red and blue are the only 2 point adjustments needed. with using warm 2 or 1 no changes are needed at all, standard or cool would be the settings to change them in.
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post #12096 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
The best way to get rid of that "yellow hue" (without playing around with the "White Balance" controls) is to use "Warm 1". (I use "Warm 1" on my TV.)

If "Warm 1" seems too bright as you say (a "bluer" tone will appear brighter than a "redder" tone), then simply turn down your "Backlight" a notch or two.


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THE Richard uses Warm 1!? My heart is breaking. #DeadToMe
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post #12097 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by zero_zep View Post
Hey so I've tried the settings on rtings and I play in a mostly dark room with ambient light behide the tv and it does feel like it's straining my eyes a bit . So the obvious answer is turn the settings down but I don't know what settings to turn them to so I don't loose the hdr effect, and since I'm not real familiar with it I'm open to suggestions.
My light sheeting now on regular- BL 5 B40 C95 and smart led off
HDR- BL 15 and the rest the same as above

If it's "straining your eyes" because the screen is too bright, then you should turn down your "Backlight" setting.

You say that you don't want to lose the "HDR effect". Are you viewing actual HDR content? (HDR content is graded much darker than non-HDR content.) Or perhaps using the HDR+ feature? It does make a big difference in what settings to adjust and what the proper settings should be.


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post #12098 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 08:41 PM
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THE Richard uses Warm 1!? My heart is breaking. #DeadToMe

Haha

Hey... I know, I know... As much as I hate to admit it, it is a matter of "preference" over "reference".



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post #12099 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Simandl View Post
Okay, so I got the Vansky bias lighting.



https://www.amazon.com/Vansky-Lighti..._cd_al_qh_dp_t



I don't really see much direction about what the ideal settings should be. Should I set it to solid white? What brightness?



Attaching it to a KS8500 for watching at night with the lights dimmed a lot or off completely.



Thanks!


I didn't even notice that one when I ordered the Luminoodle yesterday. Only saw the pure white Vansky one. That one looks pretty sweet since it has multiple colours!


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post #12100 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inopethflames View Post
every time when ive checked the a/v settings through my onkyo receiver, it says the directtv program is 1080i. so are there no tv shows in 1080p...

apparently the tv will upscale anything you watch? if thats right, what does it upscale it to?

Broadcast TV is usually either 720p or 1080i.

(Some pay-per-view channels might be 1080p, but that's about it.)

Yes, the TV always upscales all lower resolution content to its native resolution (2160p) since modern LCD and OLED TVs are "fixed-pixel displays"!

(Boy that sounded very familiar... Maybe I've said it before? )


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post #12101 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 09:07 PM
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Auto on when HDMI source turned on

Hoping somebody can tell me how to turn off the tv's auto-on feature when it detects a source turning on.

My current set-up involves my external sources (Xbox One and PS4) being connected into a 2x2 HDMI splitter, with one output connected to the OneConnect, which then connects to the 65KS8000 in the living room, and the other output to my bedroom tv.

Every time I turn on the Xbox One, the KS8000 turns on as well, which is annoying when I am in my bedroom.

I tried turning off the AnyNet in Expert Settings but it doesn't work.

Does anybody know a way to turn off the "auto-on" feature without completely removing the external source from the OneConnect list? I still want to be able to control my Xbox One with the Samsung remote, I just don't want the tv to turn on every time the xbox one turns on.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
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post #12102 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flightpath View Post
Hey guys, I really need a second opinion here. My local BB recently mounted my 65KS8000 with a Sanus VLF525 wall mount and the panel itself has no dead pixels, perfect black uniformity, zero light bleed/flash lighting in a dark room, no bezel separation but when I did a grey uniformity test, you can see two lite yellow bands in the middle of my screen. Well after looking at it again today, there's no doubt in my mind, that the yellow bands were probably caused by pressure from the installers tightening the bolts on the brackets to tight. I backed the bolts off a bit but it didn't help with the 2 bands. Having said all this, if I do an exchange for another unit, is it worth doing so, seeing that everything else is pretty much perfect with the panel? Thanks for any help.

DO NOT loosen the bolts attaching the TV to the brackets!!!

(That's a very expensive accident waiting to happen!)

I can guaranty you that the yellow bands have nothing to do with those bolts being too tight.

If you don't see the "yellow bands" when viewing regular content, than I wouldn't worry about it.

It is possible that those "yellow bands" were actually caused by the packing material. If that's the case, then gently massaging the screen with a soft microfiber cloth (with the TV turned OFF) might help get rid of them. You might have to do it a few times - just be sure not to put too much pressure on the screen.


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post #12103 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
It could be source related.

Also, sometimes "film grain" or "video noise" is intentional.


Richard
But on every dark scene? I know mine is edge lite....would that be why? Would a professional calibrate tell me because I am still under warranty.
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post #12104 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 09:15 PM
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At what level do u have the sharpness?
"0" I always keep it there.
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post #12105 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JediKnight4Him View Post
But on every dark scene? I know mine is edge lite....would that be why? Would a professional calibrate tell me because I am still under warranty.

No, you shouldn't be seeing it on every scene with different content.

Could be that something is off in your settings. It's impossible for me to know what without knowing what all your settings are.

The TV being "edge-lit" has nothing to do with it.


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post #12106 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 09:29 PM
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Evening All. I own the UN65KS8500 and am just about to hit the end of my return cycle with Crutchfield, yet I have a few items I haven't been able to resolve at this stage of ownership. I was hoping folks here might have some insight.


One issue that seems to have gotten progressively worse is clouding, which I don't recall noticing when I first got the TV. I watched Star Trek Beyond in 4K the other night and noticed several areas on the screen that were completely washed out during the dark scenes (i.e. half the movie). Even the lower letter box was washed out bad enough that the bright light just blended into the movie. Since then I have tried playing with different settings but still see the issue subtly showing up in all my input sources (I usually run between 4-7 backlight, 45 brightness and 88-95 contrast). Are other folks encountering a similar issue? Should I just try the cloth rub fix and hope for the best?


Second issue is that the large zones seem to light up the screen even when a small object is on the screen. For example, on the Xbox One in Titan Fall 2 during the load screen there is just some small text in the middle of the screen, but I see the whole middle 3rd of the TV light up from top to bottom. I've seen some similar things with black light testing while on my PC mode where even thought there is only a small white cursor at the top right of the screen, the whole right quarter of the screen will activate and illuminate. Is this simply how this TV's zones are designed to work, or is it indicative of an issue?


Finally, I randomly have stutter issues with the TV, be it while on XBOX, TV or PC. I've read that other folks have had similar issues, but haven't seen a concrete solution to the problem, or an indication that its potentially a defect in the processor (I saw some folks say switching to Movie mode worked, but didn't see much feedback on that). Any thoughts? For reference, I'm running the Cable, Blue Ray and Xbox into a Denon X6200W via 4k capable mediabridge HDMI cables, then a single out to the TV. For the PC I am running directly to the TV with optical going to the receiver. I have everything set to pass through and no video processing on within the Denon.


I'd appreciate any help folks have to offer since I really would like to keep the TV and not have to go through the whole process of packing it up. Thanks.
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post #12107 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimmy Hayes View Post
Second issue is that the large zones seem to light up the screen even when a small object is on the screen. For example, on the Xbox One in Titan Fall 2 during the load screen there is just some small text in the middle of the screen, but I see the whole middle 3rd of the TV light up from top to bottom. I've seen some similar things with black light testing while on my PC mode where even thought there is only a small white cursor at the top right of the screen, the whole right quarter of the screen will activate and illuminate. Is this simply how this TV's zones are designed to work, or is it indicative of an issue?
Perhaps this is a "Smart LED" issue? Have you tried turning that feature off?
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post #12108 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
I'm currently using the exact same ones.

I leave them on "pure white" only, on the brightest setting.


Richard


Does this look something like it's supposed to look?

I know there's way more light to the right of the TV than to the left. Not sure I can really help that. TV's in a corner with a full wall on the left side and maybe a three and a half foot high wall on the right side, with an atrium staircase behind that.

Greatly appreciate your input, thanks!
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post #12109 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 09:55 PM
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Perhaps this is a "Smart LED" issue? Have you tried turning that feature off?
Bingo, thanks my friend, that did indeed seem to be the issue. One problem down 2 to go.
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post #12110 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Simandl View Post


Does this look something like it's supposed to look?

I know there's way more light to the right of the TV than to the left. Not sure I can really help that. TV's in a corner with a full wall on the left side and maybe a three and a half foot high wall on the right side, with an atrium staircase behind that.

Greatly appreciate your input, thanks!

It's very hard to tell from a picture (since there are many variables that will affect how I see the picture on my computer monitor).

That said, if I go by what I see on my monitor, it actually looks a bit too "blue". But again, it might not look like that too you.

Otherwise, it looks good

P.S. I just watched an episode of "The Blacklist" tonight. Great show!


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post #12111 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 10:13 PM
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Do you remember what setting yours is on? I have mine on static/white. Not really sure how to get that blue out of it since I already have it set to white.

Thanks!

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post #12112 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Simandl View Post
Do you remember what setting yours is on? I have mine on static/white. Not really sure how to get that blue out of it since I already have it set to white.

Thanks!

No, I don't.

All I know is that I did spend quite a bit of time trying to find just the right shade of "white" (that's the one problem with using "multi-colored" lights ).

In fact, as much as I love those "bias lights" (and I do), the brand that I most recommend now are the ones from "www.biaslighting.com"

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post #12113 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
If it's "straining your eyes" because the screen is too bright, then you should turn down your "Backlight" setting.

You say that you don't want to lose the "HDR effect". Are you viewing actual HDR content? (HDR content is graded much darker than non-HDR content.) Or perhaps using the HDR+ feature? It does make a big difference in what settings to adjust and what the proper settings should be.


Richard
Yeah the only hdr source I have is the PS4 pro at the moment, the setting I mentioned above seem to work ok, just don't know if they are optimum for hdr or not
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post #12114 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 10:32 PM
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Have any of you ever looked at your pixels with a jeweler's loop? Super cool! I have a loop and am able to carefully get close enough with it to see them and it looks amazing.

Doing this I was able to tell that the "dead pixel" I have is not a defective pixel - but a defect somewhere else in the display. Zooming in with the loop the pixel is in fact lit up RGB. However there are some very tiny black lines over it, like a crack in a window. I have no idea if this is a problem with the screen coating or is something deeper.

Not happy about the defect but at least I don't have to waste time trying to "fix" it with pixel cycling programs. Waste of time.

EDIT:

Check out this photo. From an iphone, cropped. Pretty amazing for a cell cam!
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post #12115 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 10:56 PM
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1150.8 and still have my saved Channels list. w00t!
What model do you have and where are you located? I miss my Channels list after it was removed with 1142!
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post #12116 of 36874 Old 11-14-2016, 11:29 PM
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Anyone know what panels the 49KS8000 uses? I hope it's not a crappy Sharp panel Thinking about buying 1 to use as my PC monitor for $680.
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post #12117 of 36874 Old 11-15-2016, 12:39 AM
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Have any of you ever looked at your pixels with a jeweler's loop? Super cool!
Sheesh, and I thought I had issues!
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Hello, so I just recently purchased UN55KS8000 model Samsung tv and had a question I can't seem to find answered anywhere. Does it have the picture off setting where the audio stays on but the picture turns off? My old Samsung I got last year that I replaced this tv with did it and I really liked it and according to Samsung's website the K series indeed does it too, however their instructions don't lead to the option.
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post #12119 of 36874 Old 11-15-2016, 01:59 AM
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Anyone know what panels the 49KS8000 uses? I hope it's not a crappy Sharp panel Thinking about buying 1 to use as my PC monitor for $680.
Ours is an FA01.

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post #12120 of 36874 Old 11-15-2016, 02:02 AM
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...if I go by what I see on my monitor, it actually looks a bit too "blue". But again, it might not look like that too you.

...I did spend quite a bit of time trying to find just the right shade of "white" (that's the one problem with using "multi-colored" lights ).

I just wanted to add a note to my previous post...

Most brands of bias lights from all the major companies (Antec, Vlasky, Luminoodle, etc.) are unfortunately almost always too "cool"/"blue". Even when they claim to be ~6500K (which is what you want), they are usually always cooler. Also, it doesn't help that the "silicone" coating on some of those lights is of a bluish tint.

This is the main reason that I now recommend the ones from "www.biaslighting.com"

And NO, I do not work for this company or have any affiliations with them. Nor am I being paid to recommend their lights (I wish would be nice).



Richard
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Last edited by King Richard; 11-15-2016 at 02:15 AM.
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