Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 432 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #12931 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 01:38 AM
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Can someone confirm once and for all for me is the Samsung KS8000 a 8 bit with dithering to 10 or an actual 10 bit panel. I tried looking in the part list but couldn't find anything. People are bothering me about it and I don't have a good answer for them.
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post #12932 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 01:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfer349 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Donster View Post
Good gravy! Took a day off and it felt like it took me two days to catch up. New and potential owners use the search function at the top of each page of the thread (See pic attached) and make sure to look at the first page, first post of this thread for the FAQ! Most of your questions can be answered using both. Side note: I downloaded the 1150 update. Haven't had a chance to see what is difference because I'm experiencing network issues. #ThanksXfinity. I did sign back into YouTube and now understand the other members frustration. Fingers cross, that is fixed. Other than that, all apps loaded up no worries. Night all and apologies to those who emailed me and got a late reply from me.
Hey, Thank you for the tips, but this thread is nearly unmanagable, I feel. There's 700+ results just for ARC and zero for HEC.

Searching a 13000 post thread for keywords simply isn't realistic....
Well it looks like the mods came in and cleaned house since I was on earlier this morning. New owners, I realize that this thread is extensive, but it it wasn't always the case. There is a reason why it feels unmanageable, it is because of redundant questions that are unnecessary if members would just use the search function. Trust me, I speak from experience. When I stepped into the thread it was sitting on 37 pages and was given the similar advice, read the thread.

I know how ridiculous that sounds now that we're 430+ pages. Which is why I'm suggesting using the search function (Thanks again for pointing this out to me @Larry Rosenberg ) or the appropriate thread for your questions. I cannot remember the new owner member, but thank you for going back 5 pages and reviewing the thread.

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Originally Posted by surfer349 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by n2speed125
I've been using these same ones since I bought the tv in June and haven't had any issues. Here's a working link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So this cable does high speed HDMI (4K), ethernet, and ARC?
I have the same cables as N2 suggested. Hell, I think he recommended them to me, but the 3' that I use for my ARC without an issue. and plan to switch out my 6' HDMI cables with them. So I'd say that they are a pretty good product. As he bought his set a month before me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flightpath View Post
Hey Guys, thought I would mention that the manager at my local BB highly recommend Monster screen cleaner for my 65KS and I can confirm that this product works amazingly well! I mean it removed every smudge, finger print and even a mark that I thought was a scratch effortlessly. He said it's more of a gel base solution...not sure what other products are made of? Either way, one spray of this stuff on the included micro cloth, a little soft circular wipe and in seconds it removed every mark. Hope this helps anyone looking for a good screen cleaning product. Cheers

http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/product/...b8bff30bb8en02
Cool, glad to hear this worked for you and you passed it on. This seems to be one of the hundred of questions (I've ask more than once myself) that is ask repeatedly. Oh, and let me add. New owners, make sure you have a clean microfiber of your own before you take delivery or pick one up. I really wish I'd had one when mine was delivered.

Quote:
Originally Posted by abward View Post
Hi all. I mounted my 65" today with the Cheetah mount (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1), using M8 1.25 45mm bolts from Town & Country hardware. Pics attached, in case they will help others.
That is a beautiful job. I should probably add some more pics to my wall mount set up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by otlc View Post
Yeah, I like standard more in that video though PC RGB has some interesting parts.

Just so we're not confused on the terms it's either STANDARD vs. PC RGB. It's not "Standard RGB"

I'm leaving it on standard. 10-bit color depth.
Thanks for clearing that up, that was stumping me when I pulled up my Xbox 1 video settings. Now I have the regular 1 and curious if I should change it from 8-Bit to 10-Bit or leave it as is? I'm assuming because mine isn't the 1S it isn't able to 10-Bit?
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Official Samsung KS8000/8500 Owners Information PDF
Living Room: LG 55LE5500 Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360 w/Kinect
Bedroom: VIZIO E470VL VIZIO VSB200 Sound Bar Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360
Inner Sanctum: Samsung 65KS8000, Halo XBox One, GoW Xbox 360, Onkyo HT-S5300
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post #12933 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Elisha View Post
But Richard, cinema 6.5k is different than lighting 6.5k. If you look at HID 6.5k bulbs, they are bluish. Ice blue in fact. OEM bulbs are normally 4,300 to about 5,000k and they are closer to the cinema white on screen.
So when the LED guys say 6,500k, they are most likely not basing it on cinema 6.5k.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post
A lot of people confuse D65, which is a specific point on the CIE chart, with 6500K, which can range from a cyan to a magenta tint. It can range this way because from what I've read, blue is not taken into account when computing a Kelvin value. It's likely the reason for the range in 6500K observations from HID bulbs to "cinema 6.5K" (which should be D65).

True, 6500K (Kelvin) is not the same as D65. The color you get from a 6500K light source can vary due to the shift of magenta/green, whereas D65 is an exact, non ambiguous color. As @Rolls-Royce said above, "D65 is a specific point on the CIE chart".

However, that said, the Color Temperature of "The MediaLight 6500K Bias Lighting System" (www.biaslighting.com) is actually very close to D65. In fact, the original name for them was "MediaLight D65". NOTE: No Bias Lights out there will be precisely D65.

It was Bram Desmet, General Manager of Flanders Scientific Inc (a supplier of high quality professional equipment to the broadcast and post production industries, who sell a lot of these Bias Lights to professional colorists) who advised them that they should think of changing the name because some of his professional customers could say the lights were not precisely D65. The tolerances with professional monitors is much lower than with consumer products.

"He said that he would buy a ton of them if we didn't call it MediaLight D65. So we renamed it MediaLight 6500K." [Jason Rosenfeld]

As I stated above, the MediaLight bias lights are, according to Jason, very close to D65. They were actually measured with a 2nm spectroradiometer (borrowed from Flanders Scientific Inc). "Joe Kane uses a lowly 5nm. You know, a cheap piece of garbage for $10,000". [Jason Rosenfeld]

NOTE: I know all this from a private conversation I had with Jason Rosenfeld, Director of Scenic Labs Inc.

Quote:
Experts agree that a bias light should be the colour of sunlight on a hazy day, or something called the CIE D65 standard illuminant. We used a calibrated Photo Research SpectraScan PR-650 to measure our component light emitting diodes. Our partners then tested them on their PR-670 to verify our findings.

Our lights are not only accurate enough for home use, they are used by professionals who colour grade the videos we enjoy on our home theatre systems.

We don't believe that any of the bias lights on the market, including our own, should be marketed as D65. The CIE D65 standard illuminant is derived from sunlight in a slightly hazy sky. In our view, any artificial bias light is "simulated D65," and has different spectral power distribution than natural sunlight.

So, yes. To the extent that an LED is capable of simulating the CIE D65 standard illuminant, The MediaLight is a very accurate solution.

[source: www.biaslighting.com]

Video experts have found that using the right color of white light behind the TV helps preserve correct color perception of the picture. According to TV professionals, TV pictures look more natural when the light in the room is in the same color temperature as the CIE D65 industry reference standard.

Quote:
The CRI (Color Rendering Index) of most types of lamps is referenced to the spectral content of a standard element heated to a certain temperature on the Kelvin scale. Illuminants rated at 5000 Kelvins and higher are referenced to natural daylight at varying times of day.

Our video monitor luminaires are rated at 6500 Kelvins. This color of white light is the same as that displayed on a correctly calibrated TV set. Using 6500K ambient lighting in a video viewing environment preserves accurate color perception of images on the screen.

Industry experts [also] recommend a CRI of 90 or better in applications where color recognition is a priority.

[source: www.cinemaquestinc.com]

Hope this clarifies things.


Just one final NOTE:

The SMPTE ideal recommends that the wall behind the set be a neutral color to further preserve correct color perception. Colors classified as neutral by the Munsell Color Order System, range from white to black throughout the gray scale. Vivid colors should be avoided if they are used within the field of view of the TV screen.

The SMPTE Recommended Practice document says the brightness of a bias light as reflected off the surface behind the TV should be less than 10% of the peak white level on the viewing device.


Richard
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Last edited by King Richard; 12-19-2016 at 11:39 AM.
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post #12934 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 03:04 AM
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Hey guys, I need some help because I'm losing my mind after reading this whole thread and the one
over on NeoGaf and still have some issues.

Setup: I have a UE55KS7000(ks8000 in the US) with the latest firmware, 1150 and a Ps4 Pro, also with the latest firmware.

Whenever I set my resolution to auto (non hdr, should be using RGB 4k 4.4.4) my screen loses signal every other second.
In yuv420 with HDR on it works fine.

Now my first though was, hdmi cable (even though I purchased a new 1.4 high speed cable 2 weeks back). So I bought
a new 2.0 certified HDMI kabel (3 meters) which should hold up to 18gbps...

But even with the new cable (which had more loss of signal than the 2.0 one) it happens.

So, did I just get unlucky with HDMI cables and should get the one from amazon basics, is my HDMI cable just too long(3m)?,
is there a software/handshake issue with either my TV or the Ps4 Pro, or is my TV just faulty? I just got it on saturday so I need to know so I can return it, even though the panel is very nice with hardly and bleeding etc.


I've prepared a video of my switching between resolutions and you can see that even with RGB444 4k resolution my TV receives the signal and puts it out, but loses signal every couple seconds..


Ok I just created my account so I can't post links, if anyone wants to see it or post it in my stead, please send me a PM or search "Samsung ks7000(usa8000) and Ps4 pro flickering" on youtube and click the first video by Drokien


Thanks in advance, any advice or help is greatly appreciated.
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post #12935 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 05:16 AM
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I don't have a ps4 pro yet, but my current original ps4 does take advantage of HDR, the same way the pro handles it. I have The Last of Us, Uncharted 4, and Infamous that support HDR.

For those of you that think the games look amazing, specifically the HDR, do my settings look right? I think the HDR does what it's supposed to, makes the color tone more realistic, more so the very bright and dark scenes.

However I don't think it makes it a game changer, or extremely noticeable difference.





Sent from my SM-N930P using Tapatalk
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post #12936 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hailjack View Post
Watching football: Close-ups of players look amazing. The normal view during plays is severely lacking, looking downright blurry and washed out. Really underwhelming for this set. Is this just the result of 1080i input upscaled to the 4k screen?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
I've found that but its usually the result of the content or the broadcast and like you said . . . upscaling to 4K.

Check it out on a sat. when there are like 4 college football games at once. Each on looks different some bright and some dull. I mostly keep my pic in standard mode. But you can goose it up to dynamic for football and turn brightness down a little to see if that helps.

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post #12937 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 05:24 AM
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Does anyone know how to get rid of the extra button that shows up in the top right hand corner during tv watching?
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post #12938 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BulldogBBall View Post
I've had a heck of a time getting my Harmony Hub setup with my 60" KS8000. I can get it to "Watch TV" but that's about it. If I try any Smart Hub activity, my TV spazzes out and opens the Smart Hub and closes it really quickly (sometimes twice). Or sometimes it just goes to the source list.

Any tips?
For one thing incase you have not done this already you need to turn off ARC in tv's system>expert settings> then scroll down to ARC and turn it off.
Do this for each other device that has ARC.

Otherwise its always causing conflicts with the harmony.

Ive tweaked around since I bought the tv back on 6/9 and initially the harmony worked flawlessly. But then I added a sammy sound bar and then a sammy bluray dvd and its really an issue with samsung devices because once they did a firmware update things were never the same.

I also think the tv is so new and has had several firmware updates that the harmony database is not up to par with the newer sammy devices.

I've owned several different harmony models over the years and they are all problematic in one way or another because they all use the same desktop software.

I'm probably going to dump harmony soon and seek out a more reliable solution as I'm back to a table full of remotes and a pissed off wife

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Last edited by Expidia; 11-20-2016 at 05:39 AM.
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post #12939 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Jacobs View Post
Does anyone know how to get rid of the extra button that shows up in the top right hand corner during tv watching?
Helpful if you took a pic of it and post it.

UNK65KS8500 (curved model)
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HW-J8500 Samsung Soundbar (sold 10-24-16)
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post #12940 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Jacobs View Post
Does anyone know how to get rid of the extra button that shows up in the top right hand corner during tv watching?
Hold down the extra button on the remote and you'll get an options menu where you can then disable it.
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post #12941 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Expidia View Post
I've found that but its usually the result of the content or the broadcast and like you said . . . upscaling to 4K.

Check it out on a sat. when there are like 4 college football games at once. Each on looks different some bright and some dull. I mostly keep my pic in standard mode. But you can goose it up to dynamic for football and turn brightness down a little to see if that helps.
Thanks for the clarification. Not very happy with football on this set unfortunately, and not super happy with normal, cable 1080 content. I had high hopes after seeing the inlaw's freaking E series Vizio. ALL content looked amazing on their budget set. Beginning to wonder if my cable provider has very compressed content.

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post #12942 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hailjack View Post
Thanks for the clarification. Not very happy with football on this set unfortunately, and not super happy with normal, cable 1080 content. I had high hopes after seeing the inlaw's freaking E series Vizio. ALL content looked amazing on their budget set. Beginning to wonder if my cable provider has very compressed content.

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Well you gotta remember. espn's feed are not the best in the world. then they get compressed and delivered to you. football on cbs always looks better than anything else for me and I've had directv and now have dish. you really see how bad satellite is on 134" screen lol.
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post #12943 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camd5pt0 View Post
I don't have a ps4 pro yet, but my current original ps4 does take advantage of HDR, the same way the pro handles it. I have The Last of Us, Uncharted 4, and Infamous that support HDR.

For those of you that think the games look amazing, specifically the HDR, do my settings look right? I think the HDR does what it's supposed to, makes the color tone more realistic, more so the very bright and dark scenes.

However I don't think it makes it a game changer, or extremely noticeable difference.





Sent from my SM-N930P using Tapatalk
Looks good to me. In some pics Dynamic Contrast is off and in others it's set to medium. I always keep it off for SDR and turn it to medium (and sometimes higher) when playing HDR content. Otherwise, the rest of the settings are spot on with what I use for gaming on my PS4 Pro.
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post #12944 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
True, 6500K (Kelvin) is not the same as D65. The color you get from a 6500K light source can vary due to the shift of magenta/green, whereas D65 is an exact, non ambiguous color - it is not a "range of colors". As @Rolls-Royce said above, "D65 is a specific point on the CIE chart".



However, that said, the Color Temperature of "The MediaLight 6500K Bias Lighting System" (from www.biaslighting.com) is actually very close to D65. In fact the original name for them was "MediaLight D65". NOTE: No Bias Lights out there will be exactly D65.



It was Bram Desmet, General Manager of Flanders Scientific Inc (a supplier of high quality professional equipment to the broadcast and post production industries, who sell a lot of these Bias Lights to professional colorists) who advised them that they should think of changing the name saying that some of his professional customers could say the lights were not exactly D65 - the tolerance with professional monitors is much lower than with consumer products. "He said that he would buy a ton of them if we didn't call it MediaLight D65". So we renamed it MediaLight 6500K. [Jason Rosenfeld]



NOTE: I know all this from a private conversation I had with Jason Rosenfeld, Director of "MediaLight".



However, as I stated above, the MediaLight bias lights are, according to Jason, very close to D65. They were actually measured with a 2nm spectroradiometer (borrowed from Flanders Scientific Inc). "Joe Kane uses a lowly 5nm. You know, a cheap piece of garbage for $10,000". [Jason Rosenfeld]









Video experts have found that using the right color of white light behind the TV helps preserve correct color perception of the picture. According to TV professionals, TV pictures look more natural when the light in the room is in the same "color range/tone" as the D65 industry reference standard.









Hope this clarifies things.



Just one final NOTE: The SMPTE ideal recommends that the wall behind the set be a neutral color to further preserve correct color perception. Colors classified as neutral by the Munsell Color Order System, range from white to black throughout the gray scale. Vivid colors should be avoided if they are used within the field of view of the TV screen.





Richard

Thanks for the clarification.
On a side note I'll have to thank the wife for painting the walls a really light brown from the purple it was before.



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post #12945 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 08:14 AM
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I don't have this TV yet, but I thought I read that the Netflix app on the TV supports HDR. Is this not true?
Yes it does. Its just that Netflix promised 150 hours of HDR content by the end of the year and are not even close!
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post #12946 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 08:30 AM
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Looking for some guidance...bought a KS8000 during the Samsung EPP sale for $1079, the box was in perfect condition, but there's an odd distortion at the bottom of the screen. Almost as if the panel isn't full attached or something.

I've contacted Samsung, but all they'll do is issue a refund and I'd have to reorder at the current price. On bright solid backgrounds, I see a radial bleed of sorts from that area of the screen. It isn't noticeable all the time, and I don't know if its shipping damage or a manufacturing defect.

Thoughts on keeping the set or just returning for refund?
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post #12947 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aztechnology View Post
Can someone confirm once and for all for me is the Samsung KS8000 a 8 bit with dithering to 10 or an actual 10 bit panel. I tried looking in the part list but couldn't find anything. People are bothering me about it and I don't have a good answer for them.
It has already been confirmed once and for all earlier in the thread, but this is a long thread so it's worth posting again.

It's 10 bit. All of the SUHD range are 10 bit panels. Anyone saying otherwise is being vexatious (and I'm talking to you, http://www.displayspecifications.com/ , who refused to correct the mistake on your website when I emailed you about it).

Source 1, the highly respected Steve Withers:
https://www.avforums.com/threads/sam...#post-23782617
https://www.avforums.com/threads/sam...#post-23720385
Quote:
It is a 10-bit (not 8-bit + 2 dither because I asked Samsung that directly) and 120Hz panel.
Source 2, the left part of this graphic from Samsung's marketing explaining how the 2016 models fit into the range:


^^ the whole SUHD range from KS7000 (my Euro version of the KS8000) through to the top bendy KS9800, are all 10-bit panels with Quantum Dots.
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post #12948 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 09:33 AM
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As @Rolls-Royce already said above, YES, Bias Lights reflect the light off the back wall.

As to your question, "Does it make a difference how far from the wall a TV on a stand is?" YES, it does.

The distance from the back wall will change how the light is reflected off of it - if your TV is really close to the wall, there will be a more narrow/focused and intense glow around the TV; it the TV is further away from the wall, the light will be more diffused (less focused) and will light up a larger area behind the TV (and the rest of the room).

Just take a flashlight and point it towards a wall and start moving away from the wall and see what happens to the light being reflected on the wall. Bias Lights are just like a bunch of mini flashlights pointed towards the back wall.

With this in mind, if your TV is wall mounted and is close to the wall, the Bias Lights will need to be positioned along the back edges of the TV (usually on the top and on the sides) and you might need more than one strip. If your TV is further away from the wall, either on a stand or, like in my case, wall mounted but pulled away from the wall (mine is 25" away), then you might only need one strip of Bias Lights, usually placed horizontally on the upper-half or middle of the TV.

And YES, Bias lights do make a big difference (in my opinion ).


Richard
Thanks for the reply Richard!

My 65" KS8500 is on a stand and about 17 inches from the back (white) wall. I seat about 7 feet from the screen.

Does it sound like I will benefit from your recommended bias light? I am afraid the tv is too far from the wall. I sent an email to Medialight people, but Jason was too "cryptic " in his reply.

Thanks!
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post #12949 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 09:36 AM
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Looks good to me. In some pics Dynamic Contrast is off and in others it's set to medium. I always keep it off for SDR and turn it to medium (and sometimes higher) when playing HDR content. Otherwise, the rest of the settings are spot on with what I use for gaming on my PS4 Pro.
Great thanks, I did leave it off originally but had changed dynamic contrast to medium. Cool just making sure I'm using correct setting and really seeing HDR

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post #12950 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 09:38 AM
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...I do not see any screws...
That's because this set is glued/taped together, no screws. See the YouTube (www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrrlQVcW2Zc&t=42s) video a few pages back where the guy got his repaired. The lack of screws is why some people are seeing the back separating. That video also leads me to conclude that the separation is cosmetic and should have no bearing on structure integrity or picture quality. There is a metal frame inside that keeps things solid and straight. You screw the mounting bolts into the metal frame. The plastic back is just a cover.

Poor design choice by Samsung!

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post #12951 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Tyler Glodjo View Post
Looks good to me. In some pics Dynamic Contrast is off and in others it's set to medium. I always keep it off for SDR and turn it to medium (and sometimes higher) when playing HDR content. Otherwise, the rest of the settings are spot on with what I use for gaming on my PS4 Pro.
I don't have this game but this effect is what I was expecting, but none of the games I have exploit the brightest range.




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post #12952 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 10:08 AM
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I have searched and I keep getting more confused I just exchanged my m series for ks8000 and I absolutely love it. But I want to make sure I have my PS4 pro set up correctly i have game mode on and hdr is working should I leave all the settings to auto? Or set it to RGB or YUV420?
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post #12953 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 10:20 AM
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Just got KS8000 yesterday!

Old panel was a Toshiba Regza 42", lit by CCFL...so pretty drastic change to this beauty.

I've gone over quite a few pages of this thread, and also at rtings.com, but I seem keep getting jitter on scrolling tickers, like the ESPN Bottom Line. I've tried the Auto-Motion Plus set to Auto, custom with high numbers, custom with low numbers, and even off, and the bottom line still appears to shake it's way across sometimes.

Similar with just watching the game, sometimes it looks jittery, and other times it appears ok.

I'm running an X1 box, into my Onkyo receiver, which has 4K upscaling as well, and it is enabled. I'm going to try and just do pass through and let the TV handle the upscaling as needed.

Otherwise, I'll be tweaking the other settings as I feel they need to be adjusted, but the the images are stunning. I would just love to be able to watch sports and fast action with jitter.

Any suggestion? Thanks to those who put all of this together!...it's answered all but this one issue.
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post #12954 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 10:28 AM
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Interestingly, we were originally going to call our product MediaLight D65.

We changed the name on the advice of Bram Desmet at Flanders Scientific, because while very close, if you pull out a 2nm spectroradiometer you can detect a difference. Not only in spectral power distribution (which is different for LED, fluorescent, tungsten, sunlight, etc.) but also slight differences in coordinated colour temperature.

What kind of differences? Here's a measurement from Alan Brown at CinemaQuest Inc.:

White point was x- 0.315/y- 0.329 (that's a very tight tolerance from the ideal CIE D65 point of x- 0.3127/y- 0.329)



Joe Kane, who helped me design the MediaLight, disagreed with not calling it D65 (or simulated D65) and was concerned that it might lead to similar misconceptions -- mainly that 6500K and D65 mean different things in home theatre. Still, this is a situation where under-promising makes sense.

I do, however, believe that it's accurate to say that we strive to conform to the CIE D65 standard illuminant.






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Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post
A lot of people confuse D65, which is a specific point on the CIE chart, with 6500K, which can range from a cyan to a magenta tint. It can range this way because from what I've read, blue is not taken into account when computing a Kelvin value. It's likely the reason for the range in 6500K observations from HID bulbs to "cinema 6.5K" (which should be D65).

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Scenic Labs, LLC
Publisher of Spears & Munsil Benchmark UHD HDR Benchmark.
Maker of The ISF-certified MediaLight 6500K Bias Lighting System
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post #12955 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 10:38 AM
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Just one final NOTE: The SMPTE ideal recommends that the wall behind the set be a neutral color to further preserve correct color perception. Colors classified as neutral by the Munsell Color Order System, range from white to black throughout the gray scale. Vivid colors should be avoided if they are used within the field of view of the TV screen.
Very informative as usual. My room is a dark blue and has worked very well. I used a semi gloss finish that will also help to spread ambient reflection of bias lighting.

http://www.behr.com/consumer/ColorDetailView/S-H-570
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post #12956 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 11:20 AM
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@Aggie PT ,

I also received my 65KS8000 from Samsung.com. I have numerous bezel, stand, panel alignment issues, but they won't do a replacement.. only refund. Have you had success in getting a replacement?
You are correct. They are making me buy another one and then ship the other one back for a refund within the 30 days. After hearing your issues, I wonder if I should even send mine back? Mine is only light bleed on solid blue or gray screens, but it annoys me there.

Did a lot of you other owners have issues or had their first panel end up perfect?
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post #12957 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by thyname View Post
Thanks for the reply Richard!

My 65" KS8500 is on a stand and about 17 inches from the back (white) wall. I seat about 7 feet from the screen.

Does it sound like I will benefit from your recommended bias light? I am afraid the tv is too far from the wall. I sent an email to Medialight people, but Jason was too "cryptic " in his reply.

Thanks!
Mine is about that far from wall. Do what I did:

Get a goose-neck lamp with a low wattage day temperature bulb (6500K at 200 to 600 lumens or so) and place it behind the TV firing at the wall or trying firing it into the back of the TV (it will spread around it.) You can probably get both for $20 or so at Home Depot.

Last edited by checker9; 11-20-2016 at 11:35 AM.
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post #12958 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ricka182 View Post
Old panel was a Toshiba Regza 42", lit by CCFL...so pretty drastic change to this beauty.

I've gone over quite a few pages of this thread, and also at rtings.com, but I seem keep getting jitter on scrolling tickers, like the ESPN Bottom Line. I've tried the Auto-Motion Plus set to Auto, custom with high numbers, custom with low numbers, and even off, and the bottom line still appears to shake it's way across sometimes.

Similar with just watching the game, sometimes it looks jittery, and other times it appears ok.

I'm running an X1 box, into my Onkyo receiver, which has 4K upscaling as well, and it is enabled. I'm going to try and just do pass through and let the TV handle the upscaling as needed.

Otherwise, I'll be tweaking the other settings as I feel they need to be adjusted, but the the images are stunning. I would just love to be able to watch sports and fast action with jitter.

Any suggestion? Thanks to those who put all of this together!...it's answered all but this one issue.
Letting the TV upscale is a good idea to try. Also, see if there's a difference in using Auto1 vs. Auto2 for Film Mode.

This approach works for me with a DirecTV DVR source; however, occasionally some channels or some broadcasts on some channels don't come across well which usually isn't the fault of the TV.
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post #12959 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 11:35 AM
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The only problem with this is, if you want DirecTV 4k channels you need to either have the TV connected via RVU or a 4K Genie mini....you can't connect directly into the receiver.

I just got mine setup last Monday and its worked flawlessly so far.
I have Uverse and am happy with them but am tempted to move to DTV because of a Costco deal and the 4k stuff. Is there enough to justify it? Does anyone know when Uverse or other providers will actually start having a decent amount of 4k content?

Thanks.
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post #12960 of 36667 Old 11-20-2016, 11:35 AM
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Hey, I asked about this a week ago, but got no response. Apologies for asking again, but the time is almost up and i'm having trouble making a decision.

I bought my KS8000 via an eBay open box reseller, it came in prestine condition and I adore it. I enjoyed it up until last Tuesday, when I opened up a white screen on my PC, and bam. A dead pixel cluster/ or /Dirt caught under the screen in the top left. Since then it's been driving me crazy. I always just have to be searching for it whenever brightness appears on screen, I know that sounds dumb, but it's what I do.

My question is basically just if I should return it to the eBay reseller, hoping for a screen that is not in even worse condition, or seeing if samsung could repair it? I need to figure out quickly, the reseller's RMA period ends in 10 days. Would samsung repair take longer as well? I'm going to be a little bummed if it doesn't return by the 29th for FFXV.

Thanks in advance.
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