Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 460 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #13771 of 36726 Old 11-25-2016, 09:17 PM
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After much research, I ended up buying the UN55KS8500 based on positive things that Consumer Reports and YouTube channel RTings said about the UN55KS8000. One thing about the tv concerned me. I noticed at certain times, the far left and right vertical sides of the tv would appear to be brighter. When the sides of the tv are a bright color, it's not noticeable at all. But when the sides are a darker color, it's more visible. I believe the term used to describe this is back lighting but not sure how to describe it exactly..

Anyways, I was watching this comparison video between 8000 and 6300:

(For some reason, can't supply a link due to my low number of posts. So search for YouTube channel Majestechs and watch video entitled "Samsung KS8000 vs KU6300 - (HDR vs 4K) - LED TV - 4K HDR Review")

From 4:16-4:25 (backflip and head spin scenes), I'm receiving what I'm seeing at the top right corner. It appears to be back light related, because you see that portion of the screen brighter versus the rest of the screen. I've actually seen this before on a plasma tv, my old LED LCD tv, and my MacBook Pro. Something tells me this is normal and just part of the technology. It's not too much of a deal breaker, because the rest of the tv looks fine. Just recently tested it for dead pixels, back light bleeding, clouding, etc, and so far so good at 3 weeks old.

My gut tells me this isn't a defect but just wanted to get a second opinion about it, since I have a window to exchange it if need be. I wouldn't mind upgrading to OLED, because I'm sure it doesn't have those brightness uniformity issues but just not feeling the high input lag issue it currently has. Appreciate any info. Thanks!
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post #13772 of 36726 Old 11-25-2016, 09:27 PM
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Guys, good evening
I feel a little pressed for time, since I need to buy a TV to replace a pc monitor, and I fear prices may go up if I do not get some answers soon.
All my research points to the KS800 49" as being the best pc monitor. I am also considering the Sony 43" X800D as a second choice. I have never used a TV to replace a monitor. I have however tested most monitors from 27" to 40". Mainly IPS and AMVA (60HZ -144HZ). I want to go bigger than 40", but am reluctant to buy a TV.
As a TV (i mean to watch tv) I have always been a Sony guy. I will normally buy Sony's highest end 65" tv every 3 -4 years. But this is to watch tv only, not as a pc monitor. I spend my days correcting color in Photoshop of product shots I take with a DSLR, and the rest of the time I play FPS games.


Here are my questions :
1. Does the KS800 have any major problems when used as a pc monitor (windows 7, Gtx 1080's sli)
2. What size do you think is too large for desktop use? (My eyes are 25"-35" away)? Is a 49" ok?
3. Are tv's horribly laggy compared to monitors? Is this all an illusion? wanting to game with a tv and a PC?
4. I have not understood if console gaming and pc gaming on a tv are similar? Most people play console games on a tv? Am i correct?
5. Anyone used Adobe photoshop etc, with this tv? Are colors realistic? Or are they blown out of proportion?

Any other thoughts?
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post #13773 of 36726 Old 11-25-2016, 09:29 PM
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Forgive me if this has been asked but what does UHD color actually do? When I turn it on for my cable box I do not get any sound, should this be on?
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post #13774 of 36726 Old 11-25-2016, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elisha View Post
There are 2 cable management adapter looking things that should have come with the TV. Double sided tape on them. One on the back of each leg and route the power cable trough one and the One Connect cable trough the other so it flows with the stand and not just drop down.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
AWESOME! Thanks! Haven't received the TV yet, waiting on Samsung EPP Delivery.

If anyone is bored snap a pic of this in action!
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post #13775 of 36726 Old 11-25-2016, 09:59 PM
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Owner of a 65 inch 8000 for about a week now. Picture for the most part is great except for one thing that bothers the heck out of me, dark scenes seem to be ok but anytime there's a black screen with either a logo or writing, u can really see the good chunk of the screen light up w glow.

I tried using the rtings test patterns on my TV to see it. I used the 100 percent black test. Once the menu goes away you can see it (I'd say splotchy is a good way to describe it) but after a few seconds the screen becomes pitch black.

Not sure how else to get it to test settings for it. I really wanna try and reduce this if possible. I know it's not happening often but it's very hard to watch when it does happen. Bad set or just normal for the technology?
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post #13776 of 36726 Old 11-25-2016, 10:00 PM
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I simply do not understand what happened today.
I go to BB to see the latest tv's, and obviously the OLEDS and the Sony Z9 had by far the best PQ. They blew me away.
However I stumbled on a TV called Hisense, I think a 55".
I could not stop looking at it.
My eyes are used to watching a Sony XBR65900A from 2013. I do not know why this Hisense looked so good? I then google this brand and it's an unknown Chinese brand....go figure?
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post #13777 of 36726 Old 11-25-2016, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy1 View Post
Looks like the option may no longer be available with the latest firmware on some models.
Not. I unplugged the tv and that worked. Thanx.
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post #13778 of 36726 Old 11-25-2016, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quovadis123 View Post
I simply do not understand what happened today.
I go to BB to see the latest tv's, and obviously the OLEDS and the Sony Z9 had by far the best PQ. They blew me away.
However I stumbled on a TV called Hisense, I think a 55".
I could not stop looking at it.
My eyes are used to watching a Sony XBR65900A from 2013. I do not know why this Hisense looked so good? I then google this brand and it's an unknown Chinese brand....go figure?
Not a bad tv. They've come a long way.
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post #13779 of 36726 Old 11-25-2016, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
Probably an HDMI cable issue (or handshake problem).

Try a different HDMI cable(s).

Also try connecting directly to the TV to see if that resolves the issue.


Richard
I changed The HDMI cable seems to be working. Thanks Richard
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post #13780 of 36726 Old 11-25-2016, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
...stupidly, the player's "Auto" setting does a "try to scale everything to 4K", even though there is already a separate "2160p" setting which does exactly the same thing instead of my idea of Auto - "select the output resolution which matches the content" IMHO as a user this means that the "Auto" option is broken, but I bet they wouldn't see it that way.

Actually NO, the "Auto" setting is not "broken" - it is working exactly the way it is designed to work. In fact, it works the exact same way that ALL "Auto" settings work. (But I do understand what you're saying.)

Let me explain.

When a connected video source device (in this case, a UHD Blu-ray player) is first powered ON, it sends a request to the TV for an E-EDID (Enhanced - Extended Display Identification Data).

This E-EDID, provided by the TV, describes and relays its capabilities and operational characteristics to the player. (e.g. I'm capable of displaying 2160p, HDR, 10-bit content.)

This information, contained in the E-EDID, then allows the UHD Blu-ray player to generate and customize its video and audio data stream output for the unique capabilities and characteristics of the TV.

The whole point of the "Auto" setting is to use this E-EDID information in order to automatically maximizes the functional compatibility between devices without requiring a user to configure them manually, thus reducing the potential for incorrect settings and adjustments that could compromise the quality of the displayed images.

In other words, since this TV is capable of displaying 2160p content, then that is what will be output from the UHD player when set to "Auto".

If you were to connect the player to a 1080p, SDR TV with the output set to "Auto", then the output would match the TV and be limited to the capabilities of the TV (i.e. it would NOT try to output a 2160p HDR signal in this case).

Hope this makes sense.

What you are talking about in your quote above, is for the player to have the ability to output a native signal to the TV - native to the content that is. You want the player to have the ability to distinguish between 1080p content and 2160p content and to output it at the content's native resolution without requiring any input on your part. In this case, the TV would upscale the 1080p signal as opposed to the player doing the upscaling.

I agree with you that this would be a good feature to have. But it would not be called "Auto"; it would probably be called "Native" instead.

For more on the "Auto" setting and "E-EDID", see >> THIS POST <<


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post #13781 of 36726 Old 11-25-2016, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ant the ninja View Post
Forgive me if this has been asked but what does UHD color actually do? When I turn it on for my cable box I do not get any sound, should this be on?

No, leave it OFF for the HDMI input that your cable box is connected to. It is not needed.

Plus, as you found out yourself, it can sometimes cause problems (I also will lose the audio from my Satellite receiver with it ON). The problem is caused by an E-EDID issue (see the LINK in my previous post for more on this).

For more on the "HDMI UHD Color" setting, click the "Spoiler!" below:

Spoiler!


Richard

Last edited by King Richard; 11-25-2016 at 11:35 PM.
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post #13782 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Atheros View Post
Hi all,

I bought the 65 inch KS8000 through Amazon and I am quite happy with it. However, I did notice a very thin vertical line right through the middle of the screen when looking from an angle. I would say it's only visible trying to go black. What do you guys think? Is this normal? Do you guys experience the same? Being completely through the middle of the screen makes me think the screen / backlight is split in two sections? The left part of the screen looks lighter than the right side.

Your input is extremely valuable to me, thank you!
I've also noticed this on my TV and on a display unit in BB. I don'ntnknow if this is normal or just a coincidence but I don't let that bother me much as it is only noticeable if I look at a black background from the side at less than one feet away from the screen. Mine is also a 65" and was bought on Amazon btw.
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post #13783 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Nick Budros View Post
Ive heard a lot of issues with 60" they are a dying size. If you cannot go 65" go 55" and get the next step up TV. GO OLED.
I'd like to know what issues you experienced personally with the 60" panel? I own it and haven't had any problems and there are several others that have already posted who own the 60" and have no issues with it.
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post #13784 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 03:10 AM
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Originally Posted by kromix View Post
I've decided not to mount this TV to the wall because I'm really loving the stands they come with and they match my furniture etc, my concern is the cables, Have you guys figured out crafty ways to hide the one connect/power cable when not mounting to wall?

I really want avoid seeing any cables between the bottom of the TV to the soundbar and top of the entertainment stand.

I was imaging in my head two ways so far:

- 2 holes in the wall to run the cable into the wall and out the bottom where the entertainment stand is

- Affix the cable some how to the back of one of the stand feet nice and tight somehow so it's hidden behind one of the feet. This may be hard because those feet look might thin.



These cable wall plates make a clean look for going in/out of the wall.


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-1-G...g&gclsrc=aw.ds








.
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post #13785 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 03:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
Actually NO, the "Auto" setting is not "broken" - it is working exactly the way it is designed to work. In fact, it works the exact same way that ALL "Auto" settings work. (But I do understand what you're saying.)

Let me explain.
[...]
The whole point of the "Auto" setting is to use this E-EDID information in order to automatically maximizes the functional compatibility between devices without requiring a user to configure them manually, thus reducing the potential for incorrect settings and adjustments that could compromise the quality of the displayed images.

[...]
I agree with you that this would be a good feature to have. But it would not be called "Auto"; it would probably be called "Native" instead.
Yes, agreed, all makes sense and I actually realised after I'd posted that I'd forgotten about different resolutions at the display end but it was past my bedtime . If all displays were 4K, then it would be silly to have a 2160p output as well as Auto, but they aren't.
Ok then, Auto has its place, but I also want a "Native" output
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post #13786 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ant the ninja View Post
Forgive me if this has been asked but what does UHD color actually do? When I turn it on for my cable box I do not get any sound, should this be on?
KR has already replied but the fact that it causes sound issues for you tells me you should leave it off.

It's covered in the manual (also built in to your TV!) in the section "Supported Resolutions for each of UHD Input Signals".

With it off, the TV uses EDID to tell the device that the 4K60 modes it supports are:
8-bit 4:2:0 (no HDR)

With it on, the TV uses EDID to tell the device that the 4K60 modes it supports are:
8-bit 4:2:0, 4:4:4, RGB (all with no HDR)
10-bit 4:2:0 (with & without HDR)
12-bit 4:2:0, 4:2:2 (both with & without HDR)

HDR needs 10-bit colour and above.

See the "HDMI modes" link in my sig. HTH
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post #13787 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 04:16 AM
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Can you pair more than one bluetooth headphones with the TV? If yes, I'm guessing they work simultaneously? How can I switch between the headphones? Thanks.
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post #13788 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 04:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post
If you're using dynamic contrast, you are definitely not getting all the benefits of HDR, since the two simply cannot work correctly together for "intended" results. I posted some pictures a while back of how this butchers the image in Forza Horizon 3.
Which 'color mode' for HDR: Auto or Native?

Currently testing Auto since I'm reading it is closest to source material, and Native over saturates.

And man, everyday I check-in here, it is growing 10 pages each day!

Last edited by limitz; 11-26-2016 at 04:51 AM.
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post #13789 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 05:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blenky View Post
Anyone got a link to 1152 that is compatible with a UK TV?
Trial and error has yielded nothing. We need firmware for the T-JZMDEUC chassis.

Asia Pacific, Middle East and North Africa, and Latin America are T-JZMUABC chassis.

North America are T-JZMAKUC chassis.

Interestingly, I see that Russia is also a T-JZMDEUC chassis so that's another page to keep an eye on!
http://www.samsung.com/ru/support/model/UE55KS7000UXRU
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post #13790 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by movies2090 View Post
Owner of a 65 inch 8000 for about a week now. Picture for the most part is great except for one thing that bothers the heck out of me, dark scenes seem to be ok but anytime there's a black screen with either a logo or writing, u can really see the good chunk of the screen light up w glow.

I tried using the rtings test patterns on my TV to see it. I used the 100 percent black test. Once the menu goes away you can see it (I'd say splotchy is a good way to describe it) but after a few seconds the screen becomes pitch black.

Not sure how else to get it to test settings for it. I really wanna try and reduce this if possible. I know it's not happening often but it's very hard to watch when it does happen. Bad set or just normal for the technology?
Going to second this question/concern. I honestly didn't really notice this issue until I picked up an Xbox One S and put in an HDR movie, but I suppose I want to know if it is just nature of the tech.
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post #13791 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by joemannnnn View Post
So I'm struggling to pick a new tv. 60" is the max size I can accommodate, so leaving towards the ks8000 in 60" at $1,200 currently. However, the lg b6 oled can be had at $1,500 today too.

My room has a lot of natural light. Mixed use, sports, netflix, bluray, no gaming. 10' seating distance in a large open room, what to do?
OLEDs are excellent movie room TVs, but I wouldn't want one in a bright living room. They just don't get bright enough IMO. I have an EA9800 OLED and moved it into the bedroom for that reason.
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post #13792 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 06:09 AM
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I came across this when searching for 1152.1 firmware.


Burn-In* Free for life, Guaranteed**


Samsung 2016 SUHD TVs guarantee no burn-in.

*”Burn-in” is a permanent defect in areas of a TV display that can be caused by cumulative effects of displaying the same image or scene for long periods of time, sometimes even as little as one hour.
**In the event of burn-in from normal consumer use, Samsung Customer Service (1-800-726-7864) will either repair or replace at its option the 2016 SUHD TV with a similar model. This guarantee requires valid serial number, valid picture proof of burn-in, and product registration on Samsung.com starting from September 9th, 2016. Does not cover fraudulent claims or claims of burn-in resulting from negligence or improper use of TV. Repair or replacement may take up to 2-3 weeks.

Last edited by limitz; 11-26-2016 at 06:12 AM.
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post #13793 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by movies2090 View Post
Owner of a 65 inch 8000 for about a week now. Picture for the most part is great except for one thing that bothers the heck out of me, dark scenes seem to be ok but anytime there's a black screen with either a logo or writing, u can really see the good chunk of the screen light up w glow.

I tried using the rtings test patterns on my TV to see it. I used the 100 percent black test. Once the menu goes away you can see it (I'd say splotchy is a good way to describe it) but after a few seconds the screen becomes pitch black.

Not sure how else to get it to test settings for it. I really wanna try and reduce this if possible. I know it's not happening often but it's very hard to watch when it does happen. Bad set or just normal for the technology?
Nothing you can do. It is just the very poor implementation of dimming given the top and bottom mounted Let's. For this reason I leave it off.
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post #13794 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by quovadis123 View Post
My eyes are used to watching a Sony XBR65900A from 2013. I do not know why this Hisense looked so good? I then google this brand and it's an unknown Chinese brand....go figure?
Hisense is the new owner of Sharp brand.

Last edited by joe75xp; 11-26-2016 at 07:22 AM.
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post #13795 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by thyname View Post
What?! There is no such thing as 1080P on cable broadcasts. Unless on demand (sometimes)
My FIOS Box has an output selection for 1080P. My 65KS8000 is being delivered tomorrow. I'll report back after a few days of tinkering. Until then I'll continue to follow this amazing thread and learn as much as I can.
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post #13796 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ftboomer View Post
My FIOS Box has an output selection for 1080P. My 65KS8000 is being delivered tomorrow. I'll report back after a few days of tinkering. Until then I'll continue to follow this amazing thread and learn as much as I can.
As others had suggested here, set your STB to output at Native (or by checking 720P and 1080i), and let the KS do the upscaling
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post #13797 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOrlando View Post
Going to second this question/concern. I honestly didn't really notice this issue until I picked up an Xbox One S and put in an HDR movie, but I suppose I want to know if it is just nature of the tech.
What you both are seeing is the consequence of edge lighting a display. Smart LED set to Low or Off is the best way to compensate without actually reducing Backlight.
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post #13798 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattopotamus View Post
The P series is hands down the best LCD I have ever owned. The contrast is amazing.


And the KS8000 is hands down the best I've owned, even after owning 2 P65. To each his own.
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LG 55C9, Samsung 55KS8000, Panasonic 50VT25
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post #13799 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 07:11 AM
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sony 850 C comparison?

does anyone have experience with Sony 850C? Does the KS8000 upscale SD and HD as good or better?

Last edited by red33; 11-26-2016 at 10:24 AM.
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post #13800 of 36726 Old 11-26-2016, 07:44 AM
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The 4K show The Grand Tour on Amazon looks AMAZING on this set in HDR, with one exception. Lots of banding in the outdoor sky shots. There's no way to get around that without degrading the picture in general, is there?

Bob Simandl ... somewhere near St. Louis
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denon s740h , extra , hdmi input , KS8000/KS8500 , no picture , one connect fail , xbox one s

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