Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 579 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #17341 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BShmal View Post
Definitely not complaining about the KS8000--I prefer just about everything on this set compared to the Vizio. But, HDR content on the Vizio was about 10 times brighter and more vibrant than the KS. Just trying to figure out if anyone else has experienced this, and if so, if there's a potential solution. I'm pretty certain that whites in HDR content shouldn't be gray, and the overall picture shouldn't be washed out. Like I said, when I pull up the home menu while watching HDR it's insanely bright. Not sure why I'm not experiencing that in the actual content.
It's your picture settings. it looks amazing to me in HDR on my 65 inch ks 8000.

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post #17342 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 07:03 PM
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Hi. Can anyone explain how to get audio when UHD color is set to "on"? I have the HDMI out cable from my Denon receiver going to the HDMI 4 of the one connect box.

If it matters, I have the optical cable from one connect box connected to a soundbar for regular TV viewing.

The picture is ok, just no audio.

Thanks for your help.
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post #17343 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 07:22 PM
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I just bought a blu-ray movie called Lucy and I was wondering if the Xbox one s is able to truly show off hdr.
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post #17344 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berniesidney View Post
Regarding HDR+

Obviously its a matter of personal preference whether you like it or hate it.

Personally I use HDR+ mode for sports... NHL and NFL games look great.

Right now I'm watching the Fins/Jets game on the NFL Network.

My source is DTV... below are my settings... give em try and let me know what you think.

Picture Mode HDR+
Backlight 20
Brightness 45
Contrast 85
Sharpness 0
Color 50
Tint G50 R50
Apply Current
Digital Clean Off
AMP Blur 8, Judder 4
Smart LED Low
Film Mode Off
HDMI UHD Color Off
HDMI Black Level greyed out
Dynamic Contrast Off
Color Tone Warm 1
White Balance Default
Gamma 0
RGB Only Off
Color Space Native
I have the 65KS8000 and I duplicated your settings and and have about 6 mins left of the Miami Jets game. My room is overall dark but with some colored xmas tree lights.

Overall it looks pretty good, but everthing has a dull, yellowish/grey tint. Colors dont pop. There is nothing very UHD at all except for the clarity in detail. Everything is very clear and there is no blurr or judder, so thats very nice

Warm 2 is too yellow, standard is dull. Cool looks okay, but nothing special.

My feed is Comcast Xfinity run through a Yamaha 679 with "processor" set to auto, although I see no difference when selecting specific resolution or "direct" (no processing).

I really appreciate you posting this. Im pulling my hair out trying to get these settings dialed in. Im really not thrilled with how difficult this TV is to get a great picture. My 2 year old Samsung (nonUHD) looks better for most regular sources, and once I got things dialed in, Ive never had to reconfigure the settings.

Im waiting for xmas to see how the XBoxOneS looks. But so far im not thrilled.

I do love the smart hub. That is really a huge bonus.
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post #17345 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdtv00 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BShmal View Post
Definitely not complaining about the KS8000--I prefer just about everything on this set compared to the Vizio. But, HDR content on the Vizio was about 10 times brighter and more vibrant than the KS. Just trying to figure out if anyone else has experienced this, and if so, if there's a potential solution. I'm pretty certain that whites in HDR content shouldn't be gray, and the overall picture shouldn't be washed out. Like I said, when I pull up the home menu while watching HDR it's insanely bright. Not sure why I'm not experiencing that in the actual content.
It's your picture settings. it looks amazing to me in HDR on my 65 inch ks 8000.
Can you do us a favor and post your picture settings and have you turned off the eco mode stuff?? Because with the exception of a few here and there's, I'm using the movie mode defaults and can tell you from experience that your eyes do adjust the more you watch it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blenky View Post
Back button is now working in YouTube - although I had to sign in again. The issue with in YouTube with videos stacking on top of each other seems to be fixed. This seems to point to the app getting reloaded somehow to fix the back button. As to 'Terms and Policy' under 'Support' my choices are

'Viewing Information Services' - 'Disagree' is TICKED
'Interest-Based Advertisements' - 'I agree' is UNTICKED
'Online Remote Management Terms and Conditions' - 'I disagree with ....' is TICKED
'Requesting Support' - 'I understand and consent to the above' - is UNTICKED
'Samsung UHD Video Pack' - 'I agree' is TICKED

The above have been that way since I got the TV EXCEPT for 'Viewing Information Services' where I have have just ticked 'Disagree' without any detrimental effects.

BTW what is this Samsung UHD Video Pack I've agreed too!?
Cool man, cheers. Alright gang, clearly it isn't the forced Terms & Conditions that caused a separate app to go buggy, YouTube in this case. Same with the Netflix issue and the VUDU issue before that most of us survived and still own the tv. Thanks for clearing that up Blenky
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Official Samsung KS8000/8500 Owners Information PDF
Living Room: LG 55LE5500 Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360 w/Kinect
Bedroom: VIZIO E470VL VIZIO VSB200 Sound Bar Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360
Inner Sanctum: Samsung 65KS8000, Halo XBox One, GoW Xbox 360, Onkyo HT-S5300
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post #17346 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 08:52 PM
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I am hoping that this is an appropriate place for the following questions. I have read this entire thread since getting my new TV on Black Friday and still very unclear regarding ideal audio configuration with my setup below.
Today I picked up a Yamaha TSR-5810 and looking for best way to connect. I have the following components:
-55" KS800D
-Comcast X1
-Apple TV
-Xbox One S
-PS3
-5.1 Speaker setup.(center, fronts, rears and SW)

I have in hand all new 18gb HDMI cables from Monoproice for all devices.
So my question is, do I hook up all components but one to OCB and then to AVR or all components to the AVR then out to OCB?

Looking for overall best performance and fewest remotes.

Thank you
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post #17347 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
A question which has a specific tangible answer! At the moment, use "Native" color space in HDR+ mode.

Hopefully they'll fix it in future so that we can go back to defaulting to Auto.
Im not sure what you were saying here earlier post #16942 (because i dont understand it) but it was in reply to the definitive statement from dragon_unleashed that AUTO is the correct setting and seemed to be supporting that statement.

The conversation went something like

AUTO or Native?

AUTO without doubt, it used to be broken but is now fixed.

Oh yeah?? Why does rtings say different?

and then you replied with the extensive detail explaining that they (rtings) got it wrong.


...

Was that not how it was supposed to be read?
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post #17348 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MilitantBEEMER View Post
I am hoping that this is an appropriate place for the following questions. I have read this entire thread since getting my new TV on Black Friday and still very unclear regarding ideal audio configuration with my setup below.
Today I picked up a Yamaha TSR-5810 and looking for best way to connect. I have the following components:
-55" KS800D
-Comcast X1
-Apple TV
-Xbox One S
-PS3
-5.1 Speaker setup.(center, fronts, rears and SW)

I have in hand all new 18gb HDMI cables from Monoproice for all devices.
So my question is, do I hook up all components but one to OCB and then to AVR or all components to the AVR then out to OCB?

Looking for overall best performance and fewest remotes.

Thank you
Im only responding in case you are trying to work this out right this very minute. Im a noob and am still experimenting, however I have a similiar setup (Yamaha RX-v679). I spoke to Yamaha about a related issue, and the AV guy told me to run everything through the AVR, with one HDMI going out to port 4 on the OCB (for ARC control).

Everything works well, but my labels are not quite dialed in.

Unsolicited tip: Make note of which port on the AVR you have the Comcast connected to. Your unit may default the input to AV4, and you will have to manually switch to HDMI 1 (or whatever). Then press and hold "Watch TV" on the AVR remote until it sets it correctly. This saved me tons of time because the input/output dance was making me crazy. This should allow you to watch TV while you are dialing everything else in.

Ok...as soon as someone else chimes in, you should probably forget my advice and listen to them.

Good luck.
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post #17349 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyCircus View Post
Im only responding in case you are trying to work this out right this very minute. Im a noob and am still experimenting, however I have a similiar setup (Yamaha RX-v679). I spoke to Yamaha about a related issue, and the AV guy told me to run everything through the AVR, with one HDMI going out to port 4 on the OCB (for ARC control).

Everything works well, but my labels are not quite dialed in.

Unsolicited tip: Make note of which port on the AVR you have the Comcast connected to. Your unit may default the input to AV4, and you will have to manually switch to HDMI 1 (or whatever). Then press and hold "Watch TV" on the AVR remote until it sets it correctly. This saved me tons of time because the input/output dance was making me crazy. This should allow you to watch TV while you are dialing everything else in.

Ok...as soon as someone else chimes in, you should probably forget my advice and listen to them.

Good luck.
Thank you for the advice.
I was going to dive into this tonight, however I think I will wait till morning. Good nights rest, lots of coffee and more light should make the task easier tomorrow....
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post #17350 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyCircus View Post
I have the 65KS8000 and I duplicated your settings and and have about 6 mins left of the Miami Jets game. My room is overall dark but with some colored xmas tree lights.

Overall it looks pretty good, but everthing has a dull, yellowish/grey tint. Colors dont pop. There is nothing very UHD at all except for the clarity in detail. Everything is very clear and there is no blurr or judder, so thats very nice

Warm 2 is too yellow, standard is dull. Cool looks okay, but nothing special.

My feed is Comcast Xfinity run through a Yamaha 679 with "processor" set to auto, although I see no difference when selecting specific resolution or "direct" (no processing).

I really appreciate you posting this. Im pulling my hair out trying to get these settings dialed in. Im really not thrilled with how difficult this TV is to get a great picture. My 2 year old Samsung (nonUHD) looks better for most regular sources, and once I got things dialed in, Ive never had to reconfigure the settings.

Im waiting for xmas to see how the XBoxOneS looks. But so far im not thrilled.

I do love the smart hub. That is really a huge bonus.
Thanks for trying my settings.

I don't know if it matters but mine is the 49 inch KS8000. I am not experiencing the yellow/gray tint you mentioned.

I found the players uniform colors really pop with HDR+ activated in the special view mode.
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post #17351 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 10:13 PM
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So I was checking out this new Show on NetFlix called OA in HDR & it was so dull & Dim & just looked totally like S*** honestly it was like HDR wasn't working properly or something Gotham looked way better with my backlight turned down to 8 then turned up to 20 when HDR it was enabled & the screen looked very grey & not vibrant at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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post #17352 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dslo View Post
Hi. Can anyone explain how to get audio when UHD color is set to "on"? I have the HDMI out cable from my Denon receiver going to the HDMI 4 of the one connect box.

If it matters, I have the optical cable from one connect box connected to a soundbar for regular TV viewing.

The picture is ok, just no audio.

Thanks for your help.

If you are losing the audio when you turn ON the TV's "HDMI UHD Color" setting, than just leave it OFF.

(See >> THIS POST <<)

What components do you have connected to your AVR?

Are you just losing the audio with a particular device? (e.g. Satellite receiver?)

Do you have a UHD Blu-ray player or UHD gaming console connected? If not, then the "HDMI UHD Color" setting does not need to be ON. If you do, you can always connect them directly to the TV's OCM.


Richard

Last edited by King Richard; 12-18-2016 at 04:45 AM.
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post #17353 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by The_Donster View Post
Can you do us a favor and post your picture settings and have you turned off the eco mode stuff?? Because with the exception of a few here and there's, I'm using the movie mode defaults and can tell you from experience that your eyes do adjust the more you watch it.
For HDR Gaming:
Picture Mode: Game
Backlight: 20
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 100
Sharpness: 0
Color: 50
Tint (G/R): 50/50
Smart LED: High
HDMI UHD Color: ON
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Color Tone: Warm1
White Balance: Default
Gamma: 0
Color Space: Native

Every Eco Solution setting is Off

I've tried adjusting every single setting and still can't get HDR content to not be washed out/gray. Very odd.
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post #17354 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MilitantBEEMER View Post
I am hoping that this is an appropriate place for the following questions. I have read this entire thread since getting my new TV on Black Friday and still very unclear regarding ideal audio configuration with my setup below.
Today I picked up a Yamaha TSR-5810 and looking for best way to connect. I have the following components:
-55" KS800D
-Comcast X1
-Apple TV
-Xbox One S
-PS3
-5.1 Speaker setup.(center, fronts, rears and SW)

I have in hand all new 18gb HDMI cables from Monoproice for all devices.
So my question is, do I hook up all components but one to OCB and then to AVR or all components to the AVR then out to OCB?

Looking for overall best performance and fewest remotes.

Thank you
You read this entire thread?! You sir, deserve a beer! Kudos to you.

However, had you read the entire thread, you would've seen a recent post from me suggesting to another member to run all components through the AVR and using a single HDMI to OCB port 4

Samsung 65" KS8000
Denon AVR 6300H
Klipsch 5.1.2
HSU VTF-3 MK5 HP
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post #17355 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BShmal View Post
For HDR Gaming:
Picture Mode: Game
Backlight: 20
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 100
Sharpness: 0
Color: 50
Tint (G/R): 50/50
Smart LED: High
HDMI UHD Color: ON
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Color Tone: Warm1
White Balance: Default
Gamma: 0
Color Space: Native

Every Eco Solution setting is Off

I've tried adjusting every single setting and still can't get HDR content to not be washed out/gray. Very odd.
Have you viewed any other HDR content other than gaming? Is it possible to try an UHD disc?
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Samsung 65" KS8000
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Klipsch 5.1.2
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post #17356 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BShmal View Post
For HDR Gaming:
Picture Mode: Game
Backlight: 20
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 100
Sharpness: 0
Color: 50
Tint (G/R): 50/50
Smart LED: High
HDMI UHD Color: ON
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Color Tone: Warm1
White Balance: Default
Gamma: 0
Color Space: Native

Every Eco Solution setting is Off

I've tried adjusting every single setting and still can't get HDR content to not be washed out/gray. Very odd.
Is there a reason why you aren't using Picture Mode: Movie and Warm 2 when you aren't playing a game? I'll be honest, I use it even when I'm gaming and think it looks pretty good. Here's my settings before HDR kicks the backlight up to 20 and the contrast up to 100 when watching HDR sources. Give this a shot, because what you are using clearly isn't working for you and as I said before, your eyes will adjust.
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Official Samsung KS8000/8500 Owners Information PDF
Living Room: LG 55LE5500 Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360 w/Kinect
Bedroom: VIZIO E470VL VIZIO VSB200 Sound Bar Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360
Inner Sanctum: Samsung 65KS8000, Halo XBox One, GoW Xbox 360, Onkyo HT-S5300
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post #17357 of 36550 Old 12-17-2016, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frost81 View Post
So I was checking out this new Show on NetFlix called OA in HDR & it was so dull & Dim & just looked totally like S*** honestly it was like HDR wasn't working properly or something Gotham looked way better with my backlight turned down to 8 then turned up to 20 when HDR it was enabled & the screen looked very grey & not vibrant at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That show is the LAST thing you want to be judging HDR by picture quality by, seriously.
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post #17358 of 36550 Old 12-18-2016, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
In practice, what happens when you turn ON the TV's "HDMI UHD Color" setting, is that it changes the E-EDID that is sent from the TV to the HDMI connected component. (It doesn't change the actual "capabilities" of the TV.)

When a connected video source device is first powered ON, or first connected to the TV via HDMI, it sends a request for an E-EDID (Enhanced - Extended Display Identification Data).

E-EDID is a data structure provided by a digital display to describe and relay its capabilities and operational characteristics - such as display size & type, its supported resolutions, video and audio formats, refresh rates, bit-depth, color space, luminance data, etc - to a video source device.

This information, contained in the E-EDID, then allows the source device to generate and customize its video and audio data stream output for the unique capabilities and characteristics of the individual display.

The E-EDID information maximizes the functional compatibility between devices without requiring a user to configure them manually, thus reducing the potential for incorrect settings and adjustments that could compromise the quality of the displayed images.

Sounds great doesn't it? The problem is, it doesn't always work the way it should.

In some cases, the E-EDID can be missing information, or contain incorrect information. In other instances, the source device can have a difficult time reading the E-EDID information from the display, or get "confused" and simply misinterpret the information.

It is important to realize that all of these problems can potentially contribute to EDID-related issues. As a result of these issues, the connected device may output incorrect video and audio data, or, in some cases, not output any signal whatsoever.

Now getting back to the "HDMI UHD Color" setting...

As @aron7awol said above, the reason you might want to leave it OFF in certain cases is that it can and sometimes does cause issues with certain HDMI connected components.

This as been reported by a number of forum members, including myself, where we will completely lose all audio with a connected Satellite (as in my case) or Cable receiver. I have also seen cases where someone reported issues with the picture with this setting turned ON.

In fact, in the past, with previous Samsung TVs and before UHD Blu-ray players and UHD gaming systems became available (which only happened earlier this year), the general recommendation was always to leave this setting turned OFF. Unless you where connecting a high-end PC to your TV (which is only a very small percentage of users), the setting was not needed. This way, you would avoid possible issues caused by having it ON.

Samsung knows about the issues with this setting. In their documentation they state: "If it is set to ON with a device that supports only an HD or FHD signal, there is a chance that the TV may not have the proper picture quality or sound. In this case, leave it OFF."

I don't know exactly what causes the issues, but if I was to venture a "guess", I would say it probably has to do with the connected device having a difficult time reading the E-EDID information from the display, or simply misinterpreting the information - which results in the incorrect video or audio data being sent, or, as is the case with the audio for my Satellite receiver, not outputting any signal whatsoever.

For more on this setting, see the "Spoiler!" below:

Spoiler!


Richard
Didn't see much of a difference with it both on or off for my basic cable or streaming like Netflix. Did find out even with it off when I play an hdr movie on Netflix it still automatically switches on the hdr settings. Very cool. Thought it would have to be on. Guess not so I'm leaving it off till I get 4k blu ray player. Thoughts?
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post #17359 of 36550 Old 12-18-2016, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by hdtv00 View Post
That show is the LAST thing you want to be judging HDR by picture quality by, seriously.
It's the show,not the tv. Director was looking for gloomy atmosphere. I know it's a turn off for me too. Didn't watch past the first 10 mins because of it. Looks interesting though. Lol.
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post #17360 of 36550 Old 12-18-2016, 03:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MilitantBEEMER View Post
I am hoping that this is an appropriate place for the following questions. I have read this entire thread since getting my new TV on Black Friday
Massive respect to you for doing that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BennoDXB View Post
Im not sure what you were saying here earlier post #16942 (because i dont understand it) but it was in reply to the definitive statement from dragon_unleashed that AUTO is the correct setting and seemed to be supporting that statement.

The conversation went something like

AUTO or Native?

AUTO without doubt, it used to be broken but is now fixed.

Oh yeah?? Why does rtings say different?

and then you replied with the extensive detail explaining that they (rtings) got it wrong.
...
Was that not how it was supposed to be read?
Ok that was two separate issues. I was annoyed about rtings being so wrong about the non-existence of a mode which they did (and still do) claim to have tested, so I mention it from time to time.

Separately, after that post I was persuaded that there's another bug with Auto in HDR+ only. I was referring to a different bug with Auto in that post.

The problem with a busy 17,000 post thread spanning a long time period is that things develop over that time and the facts change on the ground, particularly with the number of firmware updates we have had. (which is good overall, outweighing the bugs hugely: having YouTube HDR is good, HLG will be good and Dynamic HDR10 will be good too).

My understanding as of today is that Auto color space will work correctly, ie chose the most appropriate space, for video in every mode except HDR+. I haven't paid much attention to the gaming side of things. As always happy to be corrected.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lmartinijr1 View Post
Didn't see much of a difference with it both on or off for my basic cable or streaming like Netflix. Did find out even with it off when I play an hdr movie on Netflix it still automatically switches on the hdr settings. Very cool. Thought it would have to be on. Guess not so I'm leaving it off till I get 4k blu ray player. Thoughts?
Remember that the settings unlocks 5 specific 4K60 modes (8 bit RGB, 8 bit 4:4:4, 10 bit 4:2:0, 12 bit 4:2:2, 12 bit 4:2:0) over HDMI, and another two modes via apps/USB only (because HDMI does not support these two modes): 8 bit 4:2:2, 10 bit 4:2:2). This is all in the HDMI modes graphic in my sig.

It doesn't affect HDR processing in any mode at all.

Just whether or not those extra modes will be made available (in the E-EDID as per King Richard's post) via a HDMI connection.

So you'll still get HDR in the non-60Hz 4k modes just as you will in the 1080p or lower resolution modes, eg those used for gaming on normal PS4 with HDR, etc.

Just like the "HDR+ mode" should really be called the "expanded colours for SDR mode to give a pseudo-HDR effect (disclaimer: this is not really HDR)",
perhaps "HDMI UHD Colour" should instead be called "also support 4K60 in 8 bit RGB, 8 bit 4:4:4, 10 bit 4:2:0, 12 bit 4:2:2, 12 bit 4:2:0". because that's all it does
If I was designing the UI, you'd certainly need the 4k resolution to fit all that text in a small font

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post #17361 of 36550 Old 12-18-2016, 03:38 AM
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Anyone else have a problem with the TV shutting off every 30 min? Starting to get annoying.
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post #17362 of 36550 Old 12-18-2016, 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by DrewGas View Post
Anyone else have a problem with the TV shutting off every 30 min? Starting to get annoying.
No how is you tv plugged in? Straight into an outlet??

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post #17363 of 36550 Old 12-18-2016, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Frost81 View Post
So I was checking out this new Show on NetFlix called OA in HDR & it was so dull & Dim & just looked totally like S*** honestly it was like HDR wasn't working properly or something Gotham looked way better with my backlight turned down to 8 then turned up to 20 when HDR it was enabled & the screen looked very grey & not vibrant at all.


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As others have said this is NOT a series that shows off HDR. If you have Amazon primes try Season 2 of 'The Man in the High Castle' - that is a different kettle of fish. Or in fact 'The Grand Tour'.
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post #17364 of 36550 Old 12-18-2016, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by DrewGas View Post
Anyone else have a problem with the TV shutting off every 30 min? Starting to get annoying.

Make sure you don't have a "Sleep Timer" turned ON.


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post #17365 of 36550 Old 12-18-2016, 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Derek922 View Post
I just bought a blu-ray movie called Lucy and I was wondering if the Xbox one s is able to truly show off hdr.
xbox 1 s does HDR movies great. but i haven't seen lucy. is the br movie uhd or just br?
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post #17366 of 36550 Old 12-18-2016, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
Remember that the [HDMI UHD Color] settings unlocks 5 specific 4K60 modes (8 bit RGB, 8 bit 4:4:4, 10 bit 4:2:0, 12 bit 4:2:2, 12 bit 4:2:0) over HDMI...

So you'll still get HDR in the non-60Hz 4k modes just as you will in the 1080p or lower resolution modes...

Just wanted to make a small correction (and addition) to the above.

(Hey, you did say, "As always happy to be corrected." )

"HDMI UHD Color" also needs to be turned on for a UHD/4K 10-bit (or 12-bit) 4:4:4 signal @ 24/30fps

For instance, the Samsung K8500 UHD Blu-ray player will only output a 10-bit 4:4:4 UHD 24P(fps) signal with the setting turned ON. Left OFF, the incoming signal is "down-converted" to 8-bits (which causes color-banding).


Richard

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post #17367 of 36550 Old 12-18-2016, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by emmons View Post
xbox 1 s does HDR movies great. but i haven't seen lucy. is the br movie uhd or just br?
Lucy only has HDR on the UHD Blu-Ray
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post #17368 of 36550 Old 12-18-2016, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
If you are losing the audio when you turn ON the TV's "HDMI UHD Color" setting, than just leave it OFF.

(See >> THIS POST <<)

What components do you have connected to your AVR?

Are you just losing the audio with a particular device? (e.g. Satellite receiver?)

Do you have a UHD Blu-ray player or UHD gaming console connected? If not, then the "HDMI UHD Color" setting does not need to be ON. If you do, you can always connect them directly to the TV's OCM.


Richard
Thanks, Richard. I have all of my devices connected to my receiver. The out from receiver goes into the HDMI 4 on OCM. I haven't tried another port on the OCM. I'm basically just trying this on my TV/cable (Cablevision/Optimum) connection. I read the article. Not sure if the UHD color really matters in my situation.
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post #17369 of 36550 Old 12-18-2016, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
Just wanted to make a small correction (and addition) to the above.

(Hey, you did say, "As always happy to be corrected." )

"HDMI UHD Color" also needs to be turned on for a UHD/4K 10-bit (or 12-bit) 4:4:4 signal @ 24/30fps

For instance, the Samsung K8500 UHD Blu-ray player will only output a 10-bit 4:4:4 UHD 24P(fps) signal with the setting turned ON. Left OFF, the incoming signal is "down-converted" to 8-bits (which causes color-banding).


Richard
Thanx for your help as always Richard. Hey Richard just to be clear,should I turn on the uhd when I'm watching any streaming content that is 4k like Netflix or Amazon for improved picture quality?
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post #17370 of 36550 Old 12-18-2016, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
Just wanted to make a small correction (and addition) to the above.

(Hey, you did say, "As always happy to be corrected." )
And I meant it!

Quote:
"HDMI UHD Color" also needs to be turned on for a UHD/4K 10-bit (or 12-bit) 4:4:4 signal @ 24/30fps

For instance, the Samsung K8500 UHD Blu-ray player will only output a 10-bit 4:4:4 UHD 24P(fps) signal with the setting turned ON. Left OFF, the incoming signal is "down-converted" to 8-bits (which causes color-banding).
Richard
....and of course 8-bits means "definitely not HDR", too!

Cool. I shall update the graphic in my sig later. The e-manual "Supported Resolutions for each of UHD Input Signals" doesn't give this information either way.

Aside: I see that the E-Manual has been updated again on their website. I had v1.0.9 on my PC, now 1.1.3 is out. Another joyful task later to diff them
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