Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 580 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #17371 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by lmartinijr1 View Post
Thanx for your help as always Richard. Hey Richard just to be clear,should I turn on the uhd when I'm watching any streaming content that is 4k like Netflix or Amazon for improved picture quality?
If it doesn't cause issues with your equipment, easiest to leave it on. The off switch, and default of iff, is because of the possibility it could cause problems with some over devices.
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post #17372 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by jconjason View Post
You read this entire thread?! You sir, deserve a beer! Kudos to you.

However, had you read the entire thread, you would've seen a recent post from me suggesting to another member to run all components through the AVR and using a single HDMI to OCB port 4
Thank you, I am pretty sure I recall seeing your post? To be honest 17,000 over several days I may have missed a few. Anywho, just looking for confirmation and pros/cons of both.

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post #17373 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 08:06 AM
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No Signal issue, Xbox One S console to Samsung UE49KS8500 (7500UK) TV (UHD Color)

Hi all,


Apologies in advance for the long post and if this issue has been previously encountered / resolved, I have searched extensively but have not yet found any relevant information or similar issues reported.

I am currently having an intermittent ‘No Signal’ issue with my Xbox One S console connected to a Samsung UE49KS7500 (UK) TV. Both console and TV are running on the latest firmware versions.

The console is set to 4K output and HDR enabled (10-bit option). The TV has the relevant HDMI channel UHD Color mode feature enabled to take advantage of 4K HDR Blu-ray movies and gaming. When I manage to get the console to display on the TV, all of the Xbox console TV supported display options are ticked green (i.e. 24hz, 50hz, 60hz, 4K, 10-Bit and HDR etc.)

The following actions switch the problem on and off:
  • If I disable UHD Color mode on the relevant TV Xbox HDMI port, it works every time (up to now) and displays in 4K, but no HDR obviously, I can switch UHD Color mode back on when the console has booted and the signal usually stays on (but not always)
  • The problem usually occurs if the Xbox is the first source I switch on. I have a Virgin Media Tivo box plugged into a second HDMI port, if the Virgin Media is already on, then I switch the console on it usually automatically switches to the Xbox HDMI port and displays ok. Note: I may have previously always done this thus masking the problem for the last month since I upgraded to the ‘S’ console
  • On the odd occasion it does not display when the Virgin box is already on, I can flick from HDMI 1 to 2, then back to 1 and it will usually display ok

The first time I noticed that there may be an issue was whilst playing a game (a non-HDR game), the screen went black briefly for about 1 or 2 seconds on 2 separate occasions. The latest symptom I am now experiencing is when I switch the Xbox console on and change to the relevant HDMI port (it should switch automatically), more often than not I get a ‘No Signal’ message displayed on the screen.

These are the following corrective actions I have tried:
  • Swapped the TV HDMI port the console is plugged in to (the HDMI is in the correct Xbox port)
  • Swapped the Xbox and Virgin Media Tivo box inputs over
  • Swapped HDMI cable (3 different cables tried, all HDMI 2 high speed certified 18Gbit/s, including the one supplied with the console)
  • Cold Boot on the Xbox console (hold power button to switch of then restart)
  • Resetting the Xbox console display settings (hold power & eject when booting)
  • Reset the TV
  • Alternating which is switched on first, the TV or the Xbox console

Obviously, I should be able to leave the UHD Color mode switched on for the relevant Xbox console HDMI channel and not have to keep switching it on / off or completing any of the above workarounds. Are you aware of any Xbox One S console compatibility issues with the Samsung UE**KS**** series televisions? If not can you suggest some corrective actions I should pursue to correct the issue?

I am by no-means any expert, but I have the following potential theories:
  • Software / compatibility issue (but I cannot find anyone else reporting the same issue so highly unlikely)
  • Possible fault to the TV One Connect box cable causing signal resistance and handshake issue
  • Possible fault to the TV One Connect box itself
  • Possible Xbox console fault, weak output signal (although I do not know anyone I can borrow an Xbox One S console from, and do not really want to buy another one just to cross off the list of possible causes!)
  • Samsung have requested to contact their support team again to remotely reset the HDMI ports if symptoms persisted after previously suggesting a TV reset (which did not work), I will do this next week but have my reservations this will do any good.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.


Regards,


Glenn
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post #17374 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
If it doesn't cause issues with your equipment, easiest to leave it on. The off switch, and default of iff, is because of the possibility it could cause problems with some over devices.
Picture looks fine either way. Guess I'll leave it on so I don't have to switch every time I watch streamed 4k. Thanx Richard. Have a great Sunday.
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post #17375 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 08:26 AM
 
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Well I'm definitely taking the dive this week.. Seems like these sets r back on sale with the same black Friday prices as last month
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post #17376 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by blenky View Post
Back button is now working in YouTube - although I had to sign in again. The issue with in YouTube with videos stacking on top of each other seems to be fixed. This seems to point to the app getting reloaded somehow to fix the back button. As to 'Terms and Policy' under 'Support' my choices are

'Viewing Information Services' - 'Disagree' is TICKED
'Interest-Based Advertisements' - 'I agree' is UNTICKED
'Online Remote Management Terms and Conditions' - 'I disagree with ....' is TICKED
'Requesting Support' - 'I understand and consent to the above' - is UNTICKED
'Samsung UHD Video Pack' - 'I agree' is TICKED

The above have been that way since I got the TV EXCEPT for 'Viewing Information Services' where I have have just ticked 'Disagree' without any detrimental effects.

BTW what is this Samsung UHD Video Pack I've agreed too!?
I also thought the stacking issue was fixed with 1155, but it started doing it again, this morning.

Edit: the exit icon in the lower, right-hand corner (which was not visible following FW update) has also returned.

Last edited by SunPowered; 12-18-2016 at 08:50 AM.
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post #17377 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by DrewGas View Post
Anyone else have a problem with the TV shutting off every 30 min? Starting to get annoying.
Not that often, but I've had mine only 5 days and it has shut off twice, each time about 2 hours after being turned on. I need to time this to see if it is exactly 2 hours. I'm no computer engineer, but this smacks of NVRAM corruption preventing some of these sets from properly storing some settings options, in this case a timer option. It would explain much of the wide variance in troubles owners are having with these sets. I have been looking carefully and I can't see any of this automatic dimming some are complaining about and this could also be explained by an eco option not sticking in memory.

But my FA01 panel is flawless with no bleed anywhere so I'll put up with this if I have to.
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post #17378 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 09:21 AM
 
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With the Ks8000 with a 45 mb download fiber optic speed connection be enough for 4 k streaming
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post #17379 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 09:23 AM
 
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Reason I ask is because I know this TV sorta shows down ur actual speed. Would 45 fiber optic be ok
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post #17380 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by EddyKnights View Post
With the Ks8000 with a 45 mb download fiber optic speed connection be enough for 4 k streaming
It's more than enough...I just helped a friend set his 65" version up, and it works perfectly with his 25Mbps download speeds from Xfinity. We did, however, have to upgrade to Cat 6 cable.
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post #17381 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by multicore View Post
Not that often, but I've had mine only 5 days and it has shut off twice, each time about 2 hours after being turned on. I need to time this to see if it is exactly 2 hours. I'm no computer engineer, but this smacks of NVRAM corruption preventing some of these sets from properly storing some settings options, in this case a timer option. It would explain much of the wide variance in troubles owners are having with these sets. I have been looking carefully and I can't see any of this automatic dimming some are complaining about and this could also be explained by an eco option not sticking in memory.

But my FA01 panel is flawless with no bleed anywhere so I'll put up with this if I have to.
I can't check at the moment because I got rid of the set (in preparation for the 2017 models), but there are 3 separate timers if I recall correctly. You need to go deep into the setup menu and disable all of them. There is also an AUTO-OFF function that you cannot disable, and which engages automatically if the set just sits there without a signal for a set period of time.

I would suggest taking photos of the screen showing all of your settings, then doing a full reset of the TV, and starting all over again. Also, make sure the plug is firmly seated at the receptacle in the TV. Just be careful not to damage the panel while doing so.

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post #17382 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by BShmal View Post
For HDR Gaming:
Picture Mode: Game
Backlight: 20
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 100
Sharpness: 0
Color: 50
Tint (G/R): 50/50
Smart LED: High
HDMI UHD Color: ON
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Color Tone: Warm1
White Balance: Default
Gamma: 0
Color Space: Native

Every Eco Solution setting is Off

I've tried adjusting every single setting and still can't get HDR content to not be washed out/gray. Very odd.
Wonder if there's a levels mismatch between the TV and source (source is sending RGB low but TV is expecting RGB High)? That would "stretch" your display's black and white target points and cause things to look washed out. Normally, this shouldn't happen, but these sets sometimes seem to be flaky in their HDMI/response to EDID implementations.

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post #17383 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 09:54 AM
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Photos of my original panel and the replacement panel. (replaced for the problems on the right hand side that look worse in the photo, that has been enhanced, than in practice)

Differences in bleed at the top are obvious as well... although wouldn't justify a replacement I think. The new panel does have more noticeable vertical column differences.
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post #17384 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by foxhole View Post
Hi all,


Apologies in advance for the long post and if this issue has been previously encountered / resolved, I have searched extensively but have not yet found any relevant information or similar issues reported.

I am currently having an intermittent ‘No Signal’ issue with my Xbox One S console connected to a Samsung UE49KS7500 (UK) TV. Both console and TV are running on the latest firmware versions.
  • If I disable UHD Color mode on the relevant TV Xbox HDMI port, it works every time (up to now) and displays in 4K, but no HDR obviously, I can switch UHD Color mode back on when the console has booted and the signal usually stays on (but not always)
  • The problem usually occurs if the Xbox is the first source I switch on. I have a Virgin Media Tivo box plugged into a second HDMI port, if the Virgin Media is already on, then I switch the console on it usually automatically switches to the Xbox HDMI port and displays ok. Note: I may have previously always done this thus masking the problem for the last month since I upgraded to the ‘S’ console
  • On the odd occasion it does not display when the Virgin box is already on, I can flick from HDMI 1 to 2, then back to 1 and it will usually display ok

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.


Regards,


Glenn
If you had a non-S XBox connected to the same input prior, it's possible the TV is retaining saved EDID information for that unit despite the resets. Here's something to try although you'll probably have to redo all your settings. Unplug (not just power down) both the TV and the XBox for 1 to 2 minutes. Also disconnect the HDMI cable from the XBox to the TV. Now plug in the TV, turn it on, and switch to the input you'll use for the XBox. The purpose of this is to try to make the TV (and console) flush any stored EDID information from NVRAM, providing a clean slate when you reconnect them. Turn off the TV and reconnect the HDMI cable from the XBox. Power on the TV then the console and let them reconnect. Hopefully the TV and console will do a proper exchange of EDID information and everything will work.
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post #17385 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 10:19 AM
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I think I have to bring my unit back to best buy (purchased 11/28/2016) as the internal apps (Netflix especially) seem to totally glitch out randomly usually after I turn the tv on, pulling the plug usually helps but it's just getting annoying. Sure I could buy a Roku 5 or something but for the quality of this Tv you'd think the internal apps and operating system would work better. Not sure if i'll try another one or not just to see if it's my unit or not.
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post #17386 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by MilitantBEEMER View Post
I am hoping that this is an appropriate place for the following questions. I have read this entire thread since getting my new TV on Black Friday and still very unclear regarding ideal audio configuration with my setup below.
Today I picked up a Yamaha TSR-5810 and looking for best way to connect. I have the following components:
-55" KS800D
-Comcast X1
-Apple TV
-Xbox One S
-PS3
-5.1 Speaker setup.(center, fronts, rears and SW)

I have in hand all new 18gb HDMI cables from Monoproice for all devices.
So my question is, do I hook up all components but one to OCB and then to AVR or all components to the AVR then out to OCB?

Looking for overall best performance and fewest remotes.

Thank you
With an newer AVR like that, I would just run everything through it, let it upconvert to 4K, hook it up to any of the OCB inputs, and then run an optical from the OCB back to the AVR (for sound for the TV OTA and apps). No need to mess with ARC on HDMI 4. I *think* optical and ARC are both 5.1.
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My current KS800 settings. PM:Movie, BL:13, B:45, C:85, S:0, C:40, T:G48/R52, DCV:Off, AMP:Off, SLED:Low, FM:Auto1, BL: Auto, DC:Off, CT:Warm1, Gam:0, CS:Auto
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post #17387 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BShmal View Post
For HDR Gaming:
Picture Mode: Game
Backlight: 20
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 100
Sharpness: 0
Color: 50
Tint (G/R): 50/50
Smart LED: High
HDMI UHD Color: ON
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Color Tone: Warm1
White Balance: Default
Gamma: 0
Color Space: Native

Every Eco Solution setting is Off

I've tried adjusting every single setting and still can't get HDR content to not be washed out/gray. Very odd.
One major issue I see with these settings is the Color Space set to Native. For HDR (not HDR+) you must set this to Auto. I previously thought Auto and Native would be the same but it turns out they are not, and Native gets washed out. My guess is that Native is forcing it into a Rec. 2020 space without the TV adjusting it down to its own range of color reproduction. In any case, Native will be washed out compared to Auto.
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post #17388 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by foxhole View Post
Hi all,


Apologies in advance for the long post and if this issue has been previously encountered / resolved, I have searched extensively but have not yet found any relevant information or similar issues reported.

I am currently having an intermittent ‘No Signal’ issue with my Xbox One S console connected to a Samsung UE49KS7500 (UK) TV. Both console and TV are running on the latest firmware versions.

The console is set to 4K output and HDR enabled (10-bit option). The TV has the relevant HDMI channel UHD Color mode feature enabled to take advantage of 4K HDR Blu-ray movies and gaming. When I manage to get the console to display on the TV, all of the Xbox console TV supported display options are ticked green (i.e. 24hz, 50hz, 60hz, 4K, 10-Bit and HDR etc.)

The following actions switch the problem on and off:
  • If I disable UHD Color mode on the relevant TV Xbox HDMI port, it works every time (up to now) and displays in 4K, but no HDR obviously, I can switch UHD Color mode back on when the console has booted and the signal usually stays on (but not always)
  • The problem usually occurs if the Xbox is the first source I switch on. I have a Virgin Media Tivo box plugged into a second HDMI port, if the Virgin Media is already on, then I switch the console on it usually automatically switches to the Xbox HDMI port and displays ok. Note: I may have previously always done this thus masking the problem for the last month since I upgraded to the ‘S’ console
  • On the odd occasion it does not display when the Virgin box is already on, I can flick from HDMI 1 to 2, then back to 1 and it will usually display ok

The first time I noticed that there may be an issue was whilst playing a game (a non-HDR game), the screen went black briefly for about 1 or 2 seconds on 2 separate occasions. The latest symptom I am now experiencing is when I switch the Xbox console on and change to the relevant HDMI port (it should switch automatically), more often than not I get a ‘No Signal’ message displayed on the screen.

These are the following corrective actions I have tried:
  • Swapped the TV HDMI port the console is plugged in to (the HDMI is in the correct Xbox port)
  • Swapped the Xbox and Virgin Media Tivo box inputs over
  • Swapped HDMI cable (3 different cables tried, all HDMI 2 high speed certified 18Gbit/s, including the one supplied with the console)
  • Cold Boot on the Xbox console (hold power button to switch of then restart)
  • Resetting the Xbox console display settings (hold power & eject when booting)
  • Reset the TV
  • Alternating which is switched on first, the TV or the Xbox console

Obviously, I should be able to leave the UHD Color mode switched on for the relevant Xbox console HDMI channel and not have to keep switching it on / off or completing any of the above workarounds. Are you aware of any Xbox One S console compatibility issues with the Samsung UE**KS**** series televisions? If not can you suggest some corrective actions I should pursue to correct the issue?

I am by no-means any expert, but I have the following potential theories:
  • Software / compatibility issue (but I cannot find anyone else reporting the same issue so highly unlikely)
  • Possible fault to the TV One Connect box cable causing signal resistance and handshake issue
  • Possible fault to the TV One Connect box itself
  • Possible Xbox console fault, weak output signal (although I do not know anyone I can borrow an Xbox One S console from, and do not really want to buy another one just to cross off the list of possible causes!)
  • Samsung have requested to contact their support team again to remotely reset the HDMI ports if symptoms persisted after previously suggesting a TV reset (which did not work), I will do this next week but have my reservations this will do any good.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.


Regards,


Glenn
Ive run into issues with my ps4 pro using 4k rgb, the picture flickers on and off like its loosing signal, i did swap some cables around and it was working without issue the other day for a few hours but there are many other people having the same issue with there ps4 pro. i don't have an xbox one S to test. disabling uhd color fixes the problem but 2160p RGB and hdr support is lost (un65ks8500)

Last edited by rckrz6; 12-18-2016 at 10:43 AM.
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post #17389 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 10:39 AM
 
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Why upgrade to cat6 cable dont get it
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post #17390 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 10:41 AM
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Why upgrade to cat6 cable dont get it
We couldn't get the maximum download speeds on the TV with the old Cat 5 cable he was using; a Systems Network Analyst friend suggested swapping it out for a Cat 6 cable.

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post #17391 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 11:06 AM
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Many thanks for the responses Rolls-Royce and rckrz6, very much appreciated you taking the time. will try resetting the ports like you have suggested sounds like a really good call and I'll let you know how I get on, might be useful for others.

If I remember rightly I'm sure I plugged the console into the 3rd hdmi port and it come on, I then tried in the morning and the same no signal happened so it may not be the issue here, I will try anyway just in case I have remembered incorrectly!

Next I will see if samsung will send me out a new OCB and cable. Strange how I am not reading about other xbox one s users reporting the same compatibility issue.

Least I have a work around in the meantime.

Regards,

Glenn
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post #17392 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaystic View Post
No one has this issue?



It's weird, everything looks less-saturated, and yellow-ish. It blows my mind because I didn't change ANY setting, how can it suddenly look different? Samsung always mess up their update somehow... increasing the saturation helps a bit, but that's not really a solution.
Uncharted doesn't look great in HDR. If you do a google search there are plenty of people unhappy with how it looks in HDR. Wait for something like Horizon: Zero Dawn coming out in a few months.
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post #17393 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 11:43 AM
 
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R these units Rvu ready
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post #17394 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by AznJinx View Post
Just recently purchased a 65in KS8000, and have noticed a significant amount of light bleed on the bottom edge especially on the bottom left. I expected some light bleed considering this is edge lit, but is this amount normal. Would like to get some 2nd opinions. Thanks

https://youtu.be/Fs-yTByrLEk
I had a band at bottom (could see on medium colors - not black nor bright/light.) I exchanged the TV and the new one does not have it.
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post #17395 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by haudidoody View Post
Photos of my original panel and the replacement panel. (replaced for the problems on the right hand side that look worse in the photo, that has been enhanced, than in practice)

Differences in bleed at the top are obvious as well... although wouldn't justify a replacement I think. The new panel does have more noticeable vertical column differences.
I'm looking at a panel replacement due to foreign objects under the glass.

How did the actual replacement process go? Any problems removing or reinstalling the back? Was the original back reused? Did the TV get damaged in any way?

Are you happy with the new panel?

You can sense that I'm very nervous about the replacement 😕
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post #17396 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 11:49 AM
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Just pulled the trigger on the 55KS8000...the new pricing was too good to pass up. I know we are only a couple weeks away from the 2017 model announcements, but even if next year's models are improved, they won't be this cheap for a while. So my question for you all is, for those who have their sets wall mounted, what mount do you recommend? I'm putting this set in my bedroom, so I was thinking about an articulating mount. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
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post #17397 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post
You'll probably have the same problem with any external HDMI switching device (receiver, switch, video processor, etc.). For the TV's universal remote functions to work, it has to "see" whatever is connected via HDMI and then memorizes that device for that input. By switching inputs externally, you are in effect hotplugging a new device into the OneConnect Box where it has another device memorized and it doesn't read that new EDID. Samsung doesn't give us the option to turn off the universal remote functions, so for now you'll either have to live with it or plug your HDMI devices separately into the box, using it as your HDMI switch.
I just upgraded to a Marantz 7010, all components connected to it, all video processing off, monitor out going to HDMI4 (ARC) and the TV is reading everything running through my receiver as PC. This is limiting my picture options in the TV settings menu and ability to run game mode when using my PS4.

I saw the quoted response to a similar issue. Anyone fix this issue?
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post #17398 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by SunPowered View Post
I'm looking at a panel replacement due to foreign objects under the glass.

How did the actual replacement process go? Any problems removing or reinstalling the back? Was the original back reused? Did the TV get damaged in any way?

Are you happy with the new panel?

You can sense that I'm very nervous about the replacement 😕
I was very nervous too, but everything is fine... so... far... Every glitch I'm worried something wasn't done right, but the improvement is very apparent.

They reuse the back panel and the boards, but there isn't much to these TVs outside of those pieces and the display panel. There was no perceivable damage to the few parts involved.

The repair process couldn't be simpler and the back panel clicks in easily. Someone with no experience could swap this panel easily. The total process takes about 30 minutes.

The replacement panel came in a well protected box similar to the original box (my only concern with the repair was the panel was laying flat in the repairman's minivan).

As for the total process start to finish, it was much more difficult getting through the Samsung gatekeepers than actually repairing the TV. We'll see how long it lasts.
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post #17399 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 12:25 PM
 
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Originally Posted by BShmal View Post
Definitely not complaining about the KS8000--I prefer just about everything on this set compared to the Vizio. But, HDR content on the Vizio was about 10 times brighter and more vibrant than the KS. Just trying to figure out if anyone else has experienced this, and if so, if there's a potential solution. I'm pretty certain that whites in HDR content shouldn't be gray, and the overall picture shouldn't be washed out. Like I said, when I pull up the home menu while watching HDR it's insanely bright. Not sure why I'm not experiencing that in the actual content.
Something is wrong with your settings, or maybe you got a bad panel. The HDR on this TV is fantastic and certainly better than the Vizio.
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post #17400 of 36638 Old 12-18-2016, 12:28 PM
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I am hoping that this is an appropriate place for the following questions. I have read this entire thread since getting my new TV on Black Friday and still very unclear regarding ideal audio configuration with my setup below.
Today I picked up a Yamaha TSR-5810 and looking for best way to connect. I have the following components:
-55" KS800D
-Comcast X1
-Apple TV
-Xbox One S
-PS3
-5.1 Speaker setup.(center, fronts, rears and SW)

I have in hand all new 18gb HDMI cables from Monoproice for all devices.
So my question is, do I hook up all components but one to OCB and then to AVR or all components to the AVR then out to OCB?

Looking for overall best performance and fewest remotes.

Thank you
Well I hooked all sources to the Yamaha and then ARC to TV. I used the Yamaha AV Setup App on my IPad and setup the inputs with the Yamaha AV Controller App. All is well, no audio issues yet and video seems spot on.

Thank you for the help and advice. I will update if I run into any issues.
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