Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 670 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #20071 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by caviefreak View Post
That's a simple one. Not every component is created equal. There are brand new computers that through Ethernet they can only get 30 megs. Samsung decided that the TV does not need any faster then 10megs.


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Huh? I get about 65 megs on mine.

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post #20072 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elisha View Post
- have you noticed the the volume levels have changed since the past few fw updates?
- I swear that when I first got the KS8000, I could leave it at 10-12 and 15 if it was noisy in the living room and it was enough volume.
- Now it seems like I have to use at least 20 and even up to 35 sometimes higher if the kids are being noisy!
Not so much on regular TV but definitely watching BD / UHD movies. Also get serious volume changes in scenes that require adjusting the volume drastically + / -
Can be even more pronounced when running audio through my AVR. Always did have to use higher volume using the AVR but recently even higher settings. This wasn't as severe when I got the TV last June but then again I have played with audio settings on all in the last week w/o testing after each change which made things worse volume wise (I should know better being a technician, lol).

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post #20073 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by almost too old View Post
Not so much on regular TV but definitely watching BD / UHD movies. Also get serious volume changes in scenes that require adjusting the volume drastically + / -
Can be even more pronounced when running audio through my AVR. Always did have to use higher volume using the AVR but recently even higher settings. This wasn't as severe when I got the TV last June but then again I have played with audio settings on all in the last week w/o testing after each change which made things worse volume wise (I should know better being a technician, lol).


On Blu-Ray that is normal because there is a higher Dynamic Range for volume. You can Normalize it in your AVR or the Blu-Ray player if the option exists.
The KS has that option too. I leave it at Auto. Turning it Off gives you the full Dynamic Range and you pretty much need to watch with high volume. Night mode is supposed to Normalize it more so the Higs and Lows don't vary much but on the TV is sounds crappy.

I think they have been tweaking Auto in the firmware updates and that's why it's not the same as it used to.
Kind of like HDR+. Now I find no difference turning on HDR+ with the exact same settings as my Movie mode.


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post #20074 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by druidflame View Post
I purchased a 65KS8000 directly from Samsung over Christmas during their special pricing. My TV has a permanent distortion along the bottom edge of the screen. Originally they agreed to have a tech replace the screen in home but Samsung then decided I would need to ship it back. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what would cause a defect like this, the rippled distortion right above the Samsung logo.
I'm curious to know if it left Samsung this way or if perhaps it was damaged during shipping, the box was in perfect shape, looked like it was right off the stores shelf.
does it get any better when you turn off the horrible glowing logo?
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post #20075 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elisha View Post
I think they have been tweaking Auto in the firmware updates and that's why it's not the same as it used to.
Kind of like HDR+. Now I find no difference turning on HDR+ with the exact same settings as my Movie mode.
Ive noticed the same thing with HDR+. I don't use HDR+ often enough to know for sure but Im thinking this happened just recently with the first 115* builds. I keep my Color at 52 and personally don't like Native color space for anything. With Auto color on HDR+ I have almost identical screens to a 53/54 color setting on regular Movie or CAL settings.
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post #20076 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by joe75xp View Post
Ive noticed the same thing with HDR+. I don't use HDR+ often enough to know for sure but Im thinking this happened just recently with the first 115* builds. I keep my Color at 52 and personally don't like Native color space for anything. With Auto color on HDR+ I have almost identical screens to a 53/54 color setting on regular Movie or CAL settings.


Movie and HDR+ is identical for me with 2 Point WB and Custom colour space. The only exception is that with HDR+, DC is Off and with Movie it is on Low.


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post #20077 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 09:04 AM
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uhd movie and the hdr sample. you get the same hdr effect on movies like the sample? or is it a totally different thing?
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post #20078 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 09:04 AM
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I have DC off and find thats the only way to combat elevated whites and highlights regardless of the backlight and brightness settings. The differences in DC is the main reason I can't use HDR+ because even with it off its still a little too powering.

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post #20079 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by BennoDXB View Post
Not true at all. The TV has a 10/100 network interface, 100Mbps capable if your internet connection was that fast. Also theres no such thing as a 30Mbps network interface.



I assume you are using the crappy ookla beta speed test? It doesnt work properly.
use fast.com Its pretty good, will give you an accurate result.

I get ~44Mbps from my 50Mbps connection.
I think you will get about the same, which is why you 4K stuff works fine. 10 wouldnt cut it.
Bingo! Fast.com works MUCH better than ookla. Tried that and it is reporting 47Mbps on the TV. Thank you for the suggestion! I was all ready to go get a new switch and start reconfiguring my network.
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post #20080 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 09:28 AM
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USB port

Sorry for the silly question. I just got one of those backlight kits. I love it so far. It's slightly messing with my clean wall mount setup though, since I see the white cable reaching down to the connection box. Is there, by chance, a USB port on the back of the unit? I couldn't find any info in the manual, and couldn't feel one reaching around the back of the unit. Cheers
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post #20081 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 09:32 AM
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Refered from reddit to come here. Please check out the video and give my some advice. https://youtu.be/kq7mKXorZt0
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post #20082 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by OmsieG View Post
Sorry for the silly question. I just got one of those backlight kits. I love it so far. It's slightly messing with my clean wall mount setup though, since I see the white cable reaching down to the connection box. Is there, by chance, a USB port on the back of the unit? I couldn't find any info in the manual, and couldn't feel one reaching around the back of the unit. Cheers
Yes, it is in the same location as where the One Connect Box Cord plugs into in the back of the KS.

Official Samsung KS8000/8500 Owners Information PDF
Living Room: LG 55LE5500 Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360 w/Kinect
Bedroom: VIZIO E470VL VIZIO VSB200 Sound Bar Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360
Inner Sanctum: Samsung 65KS8000, Halo XBox One, GoW Xbox 360, Onkyo HT-S5300
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post #20083 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 09:45 AM
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Hi All, I have a 65in KS8000 and a Samsung HW-J550 soundbar. I cannot get the TV to pair with the soundbar using bluetooth. Does the KS8000 support soundconnect?


I used to have this soundbar paired to my UN60F7500 and that always worked without issue.
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post #20084 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by The_Donster View Post
Yes, it is in the same location as where the One Connect Box Cord plugs into in the back of the KS.
Got it, thanks much!
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post #20085 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by VivaItalia View Post
Hi All, I have a 65in KS8000 and a Samsung HW-J550 soundbar. I cannot get the TV to pair with the soundbar using bluetooth. Does the KS8000 support soundconnect?


I used to have this soundbar paired to my UN60F7500 and that always worked without issue.
I figured this out.

For anyone who was having the same issue as me, the steps are as followed:

Turn on your KS8000.
Turn on your soundbar.
On your soundbar or the remote, select the source button until you reach TV.
While in TV mode, press and hold the play/pause button for 5 seconds then let go.
In a few seconds you should see a message pop up on your TV asking whether you accept to connect with your soundbar.
Select Yes.

It is now connected.
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post #20086 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe75xp View Post
Ive noticed the same thing with HDR+. I don't use HDR+ often enough to know for sure but Im thinking this happened just recently with the first 115* builds. I keep my Color at 52 and personally don't like Native color space for anything. With Auto color on HDR+ I have almost identical screens to a 53/54 color setting on regular Movie or CAL settings.
Very interesting! I know that @aron7awol did extensive testing in the past to determine that all that it used to do was expand the colour gamut. I wonder if he's noticed these changes to HDR+ in recent firmwares?

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post #20087 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 11:27 AM
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NFL Football Today

Hey, just received a KS8000 and so far so good. Currently used rtings for basic set up and also looking at the dedicated ks8000 calibration forum as well. I am going to be messing around with it today watching the NFL playoffs and I am wonder what other users have found worked best for them regarding motion, judder or any other sports settings. I am fully aware your settings may look like @#[email protected] on mine but that is what I want to find out. Will be using OTA antennae but will look at other set ups as well. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
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post #20088 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by BennoDXB View Post
does it get any better when you turn off the horrible glowing logo?
I got excited reading your suggestions, it would save all the return and refund hassle but sadly the defect is still there even with the logo turned off. Thanks anyway.
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post #20089 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
Very interesting! I know that @aron7awol did extensive testing in the past to determine that all that it used to do was expand the colour gamut. I wonder if he's noticed these changes to HDR+ in recent firmwares?
They are using Color Space Auto with HDR+, which defeats the purpose of using HDR+. If someone isn't using Color Space Native with HDR+, they might as well just go back to Movie mode.

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post #20090 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 11:39 AM
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Hey, apologies for the OT post, but wondering if the Onkyo owners (@acefr, @maximuslcd ?) can give me some feedback on how my HT-S5300 is currently set up. Right now I'm just using the two front and center speakers. I also have it and my components connected through the OCB and using Bitstream and Dolby on my KS. All's good there, but I'm wondering if I need to change any of the following default settings? I don't want to sideline the thread too much. So if you feel more comfortable pm'ing me that's cool too.

Set Up Menu->Audio Adjust:
Input Ch(Mux)-> Main/Sub
Input Ch(Mono)-> Left+Right
Panorama-> Off
Dimensions-> 0
Center Width-> 3
Height Gain->Mid(Greyed Out)
Dolby EX-> Auto
Center-> Image-> 2
Audyssey-> Off
Dynamic EQ-> Off
Reference Level-> 0dB(Greyed Out)
Dynamic Volume-> Off
Listening Angel-> Wide

Set Up Menu->HDMI Setup:
Audio Out-> Auto
LipSync-> Off
HDMI Control-> On
Audio Return Ch-> Auto
Power Control-> On
TV Control-> On

Official Samsung KS8000/8500 Owners Information PDF
Living Room: LG 55LE5500 Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360 w/Kinect
Bedroom: VIZIO E470VL VIZIO VSB200 Sound Bar Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360
Inner Sanctum: Samsung 65KS8000, Halo XBox One, GoW Xbox 360, Onkyo HT-S5300

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post #20091 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 12:33 PM
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Hi everyone,

I recently purchased the 65KS8000 and am running into a bit of a dilemma. The conduit that was run behind my fireplace is only about 1.25" wide (long story), so it does not fit the One Connect cable into it. Unfortunately, the conduit is also too small to run every single cable up to the device (4 HDMI, Ethernet, Coax). This leaves me with a few options that I'm hoping the group can help me make the best decision about:
  1. Attempt to file down the plastic sides of the One Connect cable head to get it closer to the input's width and have it fit into the conduit. This seems like a bad idea, but might actually work if it's all plastic in the surrounding area.
  2. Purchase some sort of HDMI switch/receiver so I can simply run one HDMI cable through the conduit, then mount the One Connect box behind the TV. I imagine this means I'll miss out on some of the smart TV features and would also have to use a separate remote to switch inputs, but let me know if I'm wrong about that.
  3. Find slimmer HDMI cables that may allow me to fit all of the wiring necessary into the conduit. I'll still have to mount the One Connect box behind the TV in this scenario.
  4. Find a way to detach the head of the One Connect cable, run it, and reattach it afterwards. From what I have researched, it doesn't seem that this is possible.

Ideally I'm looking for a solution that will prevent me from having to run additional cables in the future and also be able to use a single remote (I'm still investigating IR options).

If the group has any thoughts or suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
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post #20092 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elisha View Post
Most times people confuse bandwidth with throughput. But we also don't know what kind of adapter is part of the TV. It could be artificially capped via fw as well to reduce overhead and processing load!



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Yes I suspect it's purposely limited. Via wifi or wired, I get 160 mbps of 160 Mbps of my bandwidth on my phones, Xbox one S, Ps4. I know I get my full internet speed. That'S why I can use the two terms, bandwidth and thoroughput, synonymously.

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post #20093 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 12:43 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunno View Post
NFL Football Today

Hey, just received a KS8000 and so far so good. Currently used rtings for basic set up and also looking at the dedicated ks8000 calibration forum as well. I am going to be messing around with it today watching the NFL playoffs and I am wonder what other users have found worked best for them regarding motion, judder or any other sports settings. I am fully aware your settings may look like @#[email protected] on mine but that is what I want to find out. Will be using OTA antennae but will look at other set ups as well. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
I completely turn off AMP for everything I watch (make sure you set it 'off' not just turn the sliders to 0) including sports. Sports mode is off as well. NFL games look fantastic on this TV.
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post #20094 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandofaction View Post
Hi everyone,

I recently purchased the 65KS8000 and am running into a bit of a dilemma. The conduit that was run behind my fireplace is only about 1.25" wide (long story), so it does not fit the One Connect cable into it. Unfortunately, the conduit is also too small to run every single cable up to the device (4 HDMI, Ethernet, Coax). This leaves me with a few options that I'm hoping the group can help me make the best decision about:
  1. Attempt to file down the plastic sides of the One Connect cable head to get it closer to the input's width and have it fit into the conduit. This seems like a bad idea, but might actually work if it's all plastic in the surrounding area.
  2. Purchase some sort of HDMI switch/receiver so I can simply run one HDMI cable through the conduit, then mount the One Connect box behind the TV. I imagine this means I'll miss out on some of the smart TV features and would also have to use a separate remote to switch inputs, but let me know if I'm wrong about that.
  3. Find slimmer HDMI cables that may allow me to fit all of the wiring necessary into the conduit. I'll still have to mount the One Connect box behind the TV in this scenario.
  4. Find a way to detach the head of the One Connect cable, run it, and reattach it afterwards. From what I have researched, it doesn't seem that this is possible.

Ideally I'm looking for a solution that will prevent me from having to run additional cables in the future and also be able to use a single remote (I'm still investigating IR options).

If the group has any thoughts or suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
I am no TV expert by any means (see my post count, lol) but am an electronics technician so I'd say that 1 and 4 are a bad idea. 2 may work for you but just about any sort of cheaper HDMI switches can introduce PQ, audio, and HDCP issues. High end ones can handle that but then there is your TV settings to consider for your individual input devices. Someone else may be better able to answer that though. IMO 3 is your best bet just make sure the cables meet the latest specs. I really can't offer any advise concerning slim cables as I haven't used them (but they would clean up my cable management) and I also use individual remotes (old school or too lazy to figure it out) so no help there I'm afraid. I am sure you will get some good ideas from the more senior members here.
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UN65KS8000FXZC /SUHD w/Arris VIP5662W Whole Home PVR, Denon AVR-S720W 5.1.2 and UBD-K8500 /ZC

Last edited by almost too old; 01-14-2017 at 01:24 PM.
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post #20095 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by dunno View Post
NFL Football Today

Hey, just received a KS8000 and so far so good. Currently used rtings for basic set up and also looking at the dedicated ks8000 calibration forum as well. I am going to be messing around with it today watching the NFL playoffs and I am wonder what other users have found worked best for them regarding motion, judder or any other sports settings. I am fully aware your settings may look like @#[email protected] on mine but that is what I want to find out. Will be using OTA antennae but will look at other set ups as well. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Set all processing to OFF. I have time warner cable and football is great. No motion blur either. Watch when football is in air....should be a natural spinning football with no blur,lag or tail. Both my Samsungs look great with all the motion stufF OFF. Same thing with hockey.....any processing on makes the puck blur and tail......with it off the moving puck is natural and clear. Hope this helps. Enjoy the games.
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post #20096 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TB4XSBC View Post
I completely turn off AMP for everything I watch (make sure you set it 'off' not just turn the sliders to 0) including sports. Sports mode is off as well. NFL games look fantastic on this TV.
Agree!
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post #20097 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 01:36 PM
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I got excited reading your suggestions, it would save all the return and refund hassle but sadly the defect is still there even with the logo turned off. Thanks anyway.
Did you try and lightly massage the area? Sometimes this works. Give it a shot before u return it.
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post #20098 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 01:43 PM
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Hi guys.... How does the KS7000/KS8000 work with soundbars connected by optical only? I've read a few horror stories online and debating whether to get one or not. I'm looking at a Dali Kubik One.

So since the TV has no headphone or RCA out I'm going to have to rely on optical (the Kubik One has no HDMI).

Can the Smart Remote be configured the control the volume on an external, non Samsung, soundbar for the HDMI inputs and inbuilt apps (Netflix, Plex etc)? Another option might be Bluetooth but audio might be better with optical. So can the Smart Control blast IR codes or does the TV have an IR blaster somewhere?

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DIY Sound Group 893 & Volt 8's Build Thread
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post #20099 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by sjackson View Post
Hi guys.... How does the KS7000/KS8000 work with soundbars connected by optical only? I've read a few horror stories online and debating whether to get one or not. I'm looking at a Dali Kubik One.

So since the TV has no headphone or RCA out I'm going to have to rely on optical (the Kubik One has no HDMI).

Can the Smart Remote be configured the control the volume on an external, non Samsung, soundbar for the HDMI inputs and inbuilt apps (Netflix, Plex etc)? Another option might be Bluetooth but audio might be better with optical. So can the Smart Control blast IR codes or does the TV have an IR blaster somewhere?


Here's what I found using the search function that is located at the upper right hand corner of each thread using the key words soundbar optical. 6 pages might be easier to read than 670. Hope this gets you some answers
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Official Samsung KS8000/8500 Owners Information PDF
Living Room: LG 55LE5500 Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360 w/Kinect
Bedroom: VIZIO E470VL VIZIO VSB200 Sound Bar Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360
Inner Sanctum: Samsung 65KS8000, Halo XBox One, GoW Xbox 360, Onkyo HT-S5300
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post #20100 of 36964 Old 01-14-2017, 02:59 PM
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I got excited reading your suggestions, it would save all the return and refund hassle but sadly the defect is still there even with the logo turned off. Thanks anyway.
I recall someone else having the same issue in the same area. If I remember correctly, it was due to some type of impact to the TV. Best to just exchange it.

Samsung 65" KS8000
Denon AVR 6300H
Klipsch 5.1.2
HSU VTF-3 MK5 HP
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denon s740h , extra , hdmi input , KS8000/KS8500 , no picture , one connect fail , xbox one s

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