Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 682 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #20431 of 37149 Old 01-18-2017, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdrmo View Post
How do I delete any scanned AIR (antenna) channels that I don't want to keep in my channel list on my KS8000?
On the Live TV icon go up to Channels List, clicking that will bring a pop up from the right, on the top right of that there is an Edit icon.

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post #20432 of 37149 Old 01-18-2017, 10:32 PM
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Any advice as to how to get this set from constantly treating my chromecast as a new device?

Every other week it detects it as this and asks me to set it up and choose a television provider

Sometimes it will show itself properly labeled as "chromecast" by the tv pulling the info from the device itself and other times it just forgets what it is and labels it the default hmdi port label.

I've tried turning off CEC but it honestly doesnt seem to make any difference when I do for any device connected to this television.

Last edited by rego00123; 01-18-2017 at 10:41 PM.
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post #20433 of 37149 Old 01-18-2017, 10:47 PM
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Hey king Richard seems like we were having the same issues with audio drop outs while viewing Xfinity cable, this is happening with surround sound and just the TV speaker, and only on cable. Any solutions yet? I have taken the last 2 weeks and have tried a little mix of everybody's info and I'm just about set on this panel. One thing I haven't quite nailed yet is "motion" I've always been a big fan of always having this off because I don't care for the SOE effect. In most cases AMP off is the best, there is zero problems with Blu rays, uhds and streaming Netflix, but cable is so hit or miss, NBC has virtually no judder, but other channels can be horrible. Another thing that has made a HUGE difference is setting the sharpness to 0.......I haven't been a big fan of this on other sets but it seems to do this TV wonders, on all sources! We are now in standard mode with everybody's settings maybe tweaked just a tad and it's beautiful! Thanks for all the help guys!!
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post #20434 of 37149 Old 01-18-2017, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Davin81 View Post
Hey king Richard seems like we were having the same issues with audio drop outs while viewing Xfinity cable, this is happening with surround sound and just the TV speaker, and only on cable. Any solutions yet? I have taken the last 2 weeks and have tried a little mix of everybody's info and I'm just about set on this panel. One thing I haven't quite nailed yet is "motion" I've always been a big fan of always having this off because I don't care for the SOE effect. In most cases AMP off is the best, there is zero problems with Blu rays, uhds and streaming Netflix, but cable is so hit or miss, NBC has virtually no judder, but other channels can be horrible. Another thing that has made a HUGE difference is setting the sharpness to 0.......I haven't been a big fan of this on other sets but it seems to do this TV wonders, on all sources! We are now in standard mode with everybody's settings maybe tweaked just a tad and it's beautiful! Thanks for all the help guys!!
For your random audio drop outs, have you tried turning off the UHD Color setting? Some have reported that it causes some issue with cable/satellite.
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post #20435 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 02:12 AM
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Im using a 55" as a PC Monitor for about 2 weeks now? somewhere around that.

So here's what i found.

PC Mode:
Turn off HDMI auto black level (loses too many shades of black).
The local dimming will kick in when the mouse moves around the screen on a black background, but it's not local, it's a giant vertical line so ummm?
Same thing on each side of the screen, start menu and system tray both have a huge vertical backlight bleed with a black vertical area in the middle.
It's the only flaw i can see. Some oddity there.
Launch the plain screen saver though and it goes deep black %100.
Also any test pictures full screen are flawless, rich black and white, no bleeding, no backlight glitches.

1 question: how to minimize flicker? It seems to be the backlight level apparently, as PC mode sets 13 backlight, perhaps that is the best level?
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post #20436 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ReflexAction View Post
Hello everyone yesterday i bought 49KS8500 and joined your community but i have 1 problem and 1 question

1- When i try update my TV its shows up error at %83 its says ''Update failed. [ITEMRSA]'' what does its mean ? and how can i solve this ?
2- How can i check my TV total operating time ?

Thank you for your answers
Hey Reflex,

I got the same problem here with trying to update my 55": stops at 83% (every time) showing me the [ITEMRSA] -error message.
Even Samsung-support won't know the meaning of this. Have you been able to solve the problem?
Any tip appreciated!

k.
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post #20437 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 03:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GunnzAkimbo View Post
Im using a 55" as a PC Monitor for about 2 weeks now? somewhere around that.

So here's what i found.

PC Mode:
Turn off HDMI auto black level (loses too many shades of black).
The local dimming will kick in when the mouse moves around the screen on a black background, but it's not local, it's a giant vertical line so ummm?
Same thing on each side of the screen, start menu and system tray both have a huge vertical backlight bleed with a black vertical area in the middle.
It's the only flaw i can see. Some oddity there.
Launch the plain screen saver though and it goes deep black %100.
Also any test pictures full screen are flawless, rich black and white, no bleeding, no backlight glitches.

1 question: how to minimize flicker? It seems to be the backlight level apparently, as PC mode sets 13 backlight, perhaps that is the best level?
True, HDMI Auto black does not work. But I use Ycbcr from my graphics card settings, it disables HDMI black level setting and always shows correct range.

Thats the Edge Led local dimming for you. It dims and brightens the screen in vertical bars. FALD with dozens or hundreds individual led zones this is not. If this is too distracting for you, turn down the backlight so you do not see the backlight change as strongly and/or turn Smart LED to low. Smart led controls the local dimming and less aggressive setting might be better for you. I have this set in high but backlight is just at 6 so I cannot really see the backlight change unless I conciously look for it in high contrast situations.

Regarding flicker, the TV uses PWM to control backlight. Unfortunately only way to remove flicker is to max out backlight which makes the backlight to run at constant voltage but thats obviously not an option. Reducing the backlight makes the backlight pulse on and off and lower you go, the more apparent the pulse becomes. If this is distracting, or worse, cause headaches or issues with your eyes, you have to return this TV and go for Sony instead which tends to use flicker free voltage controlled backlights. Hopefully this changes with Samsung 2017 models, PWM is antiquated method of backlight control from CCFL era which pulsed smoothly and was impossible to see and did not cause issues but with LEDs its nothing but a source of headaches, literally.
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post #20438 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 03:29 AM
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PC Mode has no dimming of any sort on my TV (its the reason i use it on xbox, ps4 and pc)

Are you sure you are running PC Mode? best way to know is, you should only have standard and dynamic mode available and most settings are grayed out (colour being one)
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post #20439 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 04:00 AM
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Originally Posted by thegam3 View Post
PC Mode has no dimming of any sort on my TV (its the reason i use it on xbox, ps4 and pc)

Are you sure you are running PC Mode? best way to know is, you should only have standard and dynamic mode available and most settings are grayed out (colour being one)
Smart LED does work in PC mode too. That can cause dimming if large portions of the screen is black or near black. I noticed the same when I had a wallpaper that was mostly black and had just something in the center. The tiny icons and start button were darkened as a result while the center was brightened due to the picture wallpaper had. Thats just the local dimming doing its work, just doing it wrong in that situation.
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post #20440 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 04:08 AM
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Anyway, the upcoming PC game Mass Effect: Andromeda is going to support HDR.

Would we be able to play it on a PC computer in Game Mode (22ms input lag) with HDR enabled ?

Right now HDR is greyed out for me.
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post #20441 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 04:35 AM
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Does anyone here use this TV as a PC monitor to watch movies? I'm doing this but I have a lot of confusion. Ideally for movies we need to set picture mode as Movie. But to enable HDMI UHD Color with 4:4:4 chroma subsampling we need to put the TV to PC mode. But the PC mode isn't ideal for movies. So what do you guys do?

Secondly, which is the best possible way to watch MKV movies on this TV? Is it by directly plugging in the USB to the TV, or through a PC?
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post #20442 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 04:41 AM
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I was ready to pull the trigger on the 65 inch 8000 but these back panels coming unglued The set is a long term investment for me and it does not look like it will hold up, why Mike these so thin the have to be glued?
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post #20443 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuat View Post
Anyway, the upcoming PC game Mass Effect: Andromeda is going to support HDR.

Would we be able to play it on a PC computer in Game Mode (22ms input lag) with HDR enabled ?

Right now HDR is greyed out for me.
Shadow Warrior 2 on PC already supports HDR (and looks awesome). The monitor automatically goes into HDR mode and lag is low. It is not in laggy movie mode HDR or anything by default. Everything feels quick and twitchy so no need to manually change between modes.

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post #20444 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Kuat View Post
Anyway, the upcoming PC game Mass Effect: Andromeda is going to support HDR.

Would we be able to play it on a PC computer in Game Mode (22ms input lag) with HDR enabled ?

Right now HDR is greyed out for me.
Greyed out? There isn't a HDR mode that you manually switch to, or that would be greyed out in the menus.

The TV can always process an HDR input signal when it's in Movie or Standard picture modes or the Game or HDR+ "Special Viewing mode".

I think you are getting confused with the HDR+ "Special Viewing mode" which is normally used to try to artificially up-convert a normal SDR picture to HDR. This mode isn't bog-standard normal HDR. You do not have to use this mode to display HDR. You can use one of the other 3.
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post #20445 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ammarmalik View Post
Does anyone here use this TV as a PC monitor to watch movies? I'm doing this but I have a lot of confusion. Ideally for movies we need to set picture mode as Movie. But to enable HDMI UHD Color with 4:4:4 chroma subsampling we need to put the TV to PC mode. But the PC mode isn't ideal for movies. So what do you guys do?

Secondly, which is the best possible way to watch MKV movies on this TV? Is it by directly plugging in the USB to the TV, or through a PC?
I do. My setup is MPC-HC with MadVR enabled and MadVR is set to change the refresh rate to 24hz or 25hz, depending on video, when I go fullscreen. When the TV detects a 24hz or 25hz signal it automatically goes to Movie mode. So I can have two different calibrations, one for movie mode and one for PC use. Quite handy, no need to manually switch around modes.

I prefer MadVR because of the awesome scalers and image doublers it has, but the Samsung scaler is good too so watching movies from USB stick is a good choice.
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post #20446 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 05:12 AM
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I was ready to pull the trigger on the 65 inch 8000 but these back panels coming unglued The set is a long term investment for me and it does not look like it will hold up, why Mike these so thin the have to be glued?
i wouldn't worry about it. dont think its a big problem. I dont know of any1 except here with it so its a very small problem. first of all dont use too long of screws mounting it. if you bottom the screws out it will push the back out, front isn't moving. when you take it out of the box do it laying down with the screen down as the box says, its protected really good. did mine on wood floors and didn't get a scratch.
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post #20447 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audacious nick View Post
Hooray, my new KS9000 came today. I still have to set up everything, hopefully it has no issues.
How is it, nick?

Quote:
Originally Posted by EagleOne42 View Post
Change notes:
-Remove a random thing (that was a feature)
-Break 1-3 random items
-50% chance of fixing/improving one item
-"Improve web browser performance"
1155 here, to infinity and beyond!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ammarmalik View Post
............
Secondly, which is the best possible way to watch MKV movies on this TV? Is it by directly plugging in the USB to the TV, or through a PC?
I have a passport drive connected to the OCB and watching movie files (mostly mp4's, to save room) is extremely easy and fairly quick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarpad View Post
I was ready to pull the trigger on the 65 inch 8000 but these back panels coming unglued The set is a long term investment for me and it does not look like it will hold up, why Mike these so thin the have to be glued?
My 60" is set up on a table stand swivel mount, and whenever I do turn the TV, I always make sure to do it by grabbing the bottom part of the set. Because of this I am always checking the panel for separation and so far, not touching it up there seems to be paying off, as I have no signs of any panel irregularity at all (knock wood).
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post #20448 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by emmons View Post
i wouldn't worry about it. dont think its a big problem. I dont know of any1 except here with it so its a very small problem. first of all dont use too long of screws mounting it. if you bottom the screws out it will push the back out, front isn't moving. when you take it out of the box do it laying down with the screen down as the box says, its protected really good. did mine on wood floors and didn't get a scratch.
Well I guess what is making me nervous is even the Rtings review had a panel that was coming apart
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post #20449 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 05:42 AM
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Well I guess what is making me nervous is even the Rtings review had a panel that was coming apart
Regardless, how would this effect your viewing experience, as it's usually not noticable until you look closely behind the TV.

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post #20450 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 05:44 AM
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Im coming up on 6 months with 2000 hours of use and have had no problems with the back panel or screen.

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post #20451 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by timick1 View Post
I'm using a Harmony One remote to control my equipment:
- Samsung 65KS8000 TV
- Denon X1300W AVR
- Xbox One S
- DirecTV DVR


I have everything connected to the AVR via HDMI, then HDMI out from the AVR to the TV (OCB) HDMI 4 (ARC)


I set up 3 activities:
- Watch Direct TV: the DVR, AVR, and TV all turn on. The Harmony remote is taking place of the DirecTV remote.
- Game/Blu-ray: the AVR, Xbox, and TV all turn on. The Harmony remote is taking place of the Xbox controller (but only when watching a movie).
- Watch Smart TV: the AVR and TV turn on. The Harmony can easily be configured to open the Smart Hub when this activity is started. The Harmony remote is taking place of the TV's remote. Everything works (most of the time).


When I want to use the Smart Hub, I am finding it easier to just use the TV's remote though. I've gotten use to it.
If you bind an unused key (I use the bottom corner buttons) to open the smart hub it makes it easier.

The only issue I run into sometimes is switching inputs to the smart hub, then back to another source. This bound key fixes that when it does not work properly.

It would be nice to setup the remote to launch each smart app, but then you would need a bunch of activity buttons.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
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post #20452 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by joe75xp View Post
Im coming up on 6 months with 2000 hours of use and have had no problems with the back panel or screen.
Same! My wife is on maternity leave so she ends up having the TV on in the background 1/2 the day, then I come home and usually watch it. How do you check the hours on the TV?

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post #20453 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by BrahmaBull View Post
We can't ask questions previously covered or complain about certain aspects of this TV but this post, totally cool.

Samsung tech told me to call the 3rd party contractor back, since there is like 1 week grace period for her to fix things. First she did not pick up, left her a VM. Called in a day later, sounded like stoned, did not know what it is about, told me she will call me back. 3 days later no call back. Left her another VM. Another day passed without her calling back.

Probably scared she broke the TV and has to pay everything. Called Samsung again and they are sending someone else now.

Here is the view from the side, even worse than on the front.

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post #20454 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Hiredgoon View Post
Same! My wife is on maternity leave so she ends up having the TV on in the background 1/2 the day, then I come home and usually watch it. How do you check the hours on the TV?
Its shown in the Info section of the service menu. Its shows minutes but if you trigger it to Advanced menu it will show in hours.
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post #20455 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 06:36 AM
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Updated to 1162 and my audio got out of sync. Had to change audio delay to 0. Feels almost perfect but not as good as before.
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post #20456 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 06:41 AM
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Updated to 1162 and my audio got out of sync. Had to change audio delay to 0. Feels almost perfect but not as good as before.
If you had to change it to 0 then you mean your audio is now in sync. It would appear this fixed it.
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post #20457 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
HDR actually is available PC mode with Standard picture settings. Remember that Movie, Standard, Game and HDR+ (the latter only from a HDMI source) can all display HDR correctly even if they don't all save two sets of settings.

But it's extremely unhelpful to quote "test results" on a webpage that many people refer to, to a mode which the TV in question doesn't have and which games won't use anyway. In the case of this TV, HDR means HDR10, and that means 10 bits and above.

http://www.bigpicturebigsound.com/Wh...idelines.shtml
PC gamers do care about it, because some HDR games do support 4k @ 60Hz @ 4:4:4 + 8 bit.
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post #20458 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 06:46 AM
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If you had to change it to 0 then you mean your audio is now in sync. It would appear this fixed it.
I'm pretty sure I said it's not in sync. But thanks for that insight.
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post #20459 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by layzzzee8 View Post
If you had to change it to 0 then you mean your audio is now in sync. It would appear this fixed it.
Is it possible for you to check if Live TV and the Netflix app still share the amount picture mode.
Prior to 1160, one could be setup up in Natural and the other in Movie for example.

And of course Game mode HDR profile if you are using it.

For the sync, I suggest this test

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post #20460 of 37149 Old 01-19-2017, 06:59 AM
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Is it possible for you to check if Live TV and the Netflix app still share the amount picture mode.
Prior to 1160, one could be setup up in Natural and the other in Movie for example.

And of course Game mode HDR profile if you are using it.

For the sync, I suggest this test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQdgNSeJQgg
Thank you very much for providing this video. I have audio syncing issues that are driving me crazy. However, now I'm wondering if it's the video sources that are off and not my tv as the line, sound, and flash all happen spot on at 0..? Thoughts on this? Oh boy... software update just became available, to update or not to update... lol
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denon s740h , extra , hdmi input , KS8000/KS8500 , no picture , one connect fail , xbox one s

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