Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 687 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #20581 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 12:47 AM
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post #20582 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 12:51 AM
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Haha, lol @ your pic :-)
No, but serious. I read in your reply a couple of posts above, to put it on low/high, but when i look at (for example) the digital foundry setup, they put it "off." If you ask me, it should be put off, but omg, there's just so much contradiction everywhere..
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post #20583 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 01:39 AM
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Whats the very first thing they say in the foundry clip....its a video on SD content not HDR content. The real answer is make your own adjustments and figure it out. None of the sets have the same performance exactly so you have to adjust settings for your set.

Don't mind the hall monitors ask your questions. No one is forcing them to sub and read and reply to every single post.

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post #20584 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Xa4 View Post
This question has been passed along -i'm sure- a couple of times, but i've read some contradiction in the replies. When i watch a HDR movie, or play a HDR enabled game, should i have dynamic contrast Off, Low, or high? I have the BL on 20 off course and the LED light on High (as it is set like that on default).
I can't remember from the large number of posts who did the testing, but some users here have professional meters. My personal crib-notes says:
Smart LED controls local dimming on dark parts of the screen (will bleed).
Low =0.006 nits to 500 nits. High=0.006 nits to 1400 nits but more blooming. Off=0.06 to 500 nits.
It should be High for HDR content, to get the max contrast.
It should be Low for SDR content.
ie, the TV cannot produce more than 500 nits unless Smart LED is High.

Dynamic Contrast: Software based contrast enhancer. Used to crush blacks and clip whites in earlier fw.
Off for SDR content
Low for HDR content.

Obviously much of this is personal preferences, and what looks best to you, but if you wanted to know what's been discussed before, it's above. HTH.

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post #20585 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 03:49 AM
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Hi Team! I'm having an issue with my KS8000 seeing my Playstation...about 50%-75% of the time I select my Playstation as the source from the TV menu, nothing gets output to the screen, it's just black. As you can imagine, playing a game with no video is quite difficult A workaround that I've found (that sucks) is to reach back and unplug the HDMI going into the ConnectBox and replug it in...this triggers it to work. I've also tried turning the TV on first, then the PS4...and vice versa. I've also turned the TV on and off again (while the PS4 is on)...still nothing. Everything works as intended every couple of times, but not everytime. Thoughts??

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post #20586 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by layzzzee8 View Post
Crap! With 1162 I'm getting frame skips every 15-20 seconds on amazon video. I'm assuming the same thing happens on Netflix. This is rediculous. I should have turned off auto update.
Hey @layzzzee8 and @jconjason , no issues with streaming or audio sync. Watched a movie this afternoon, then an episode of Bosch (Amazon), about a half hour of Sherlock (Netflix) and getting ready to watch Hogan's Heroes on YouTube before I head off to bed.

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can anyone recommend really good bias lighting? I have a 65 inch
nothing too fancy but nothing too cheap lol


Welcome to the forum, please make sure to check out the search this thread function that is located in the upper right hand of each thread page. I'd also recommend reading the FAQ, first page, first post.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by unknownbeef View Post
Is it normal for the left third of the screen to be brighter than the rest. It's worse the closer it is to the left border. When viewing a full-black image with the backlight up all the way, it's pretty noticable.
No, lighting should be even across the screen. Posting a photo will help, but it sounds like you need to exchange it if you're in the return policy.
No, what would be more helpful is knowing the source they are watching and their picture settings. Is your eco system settings off? Also, any other relevant stuff that might help sort out what's going on with your tv?
I have a feeling that the people on 1162 not experiencing frame skips have AMP off. I cannot watch this TV with AMP off.
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post #20587 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 05:07 AM
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Im on 1162 no skips for me on netflix. I don't have amazon to test.

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post #20588 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post
I updated our set to 1162 today and haven't yet seen the issues that other folks are having. Of course, I reset the TV by unplugging and replugging it after the update...
Is there a way to reset the TV without having to unplug it? My TV is mounted on the wall with the outlet (and plug) located behind the TV.
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post #20589 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 05:42 AM
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I haven't practiced what I teach and actually forgot to disable Auto-Update. I got updated to 1162 last night

Had to reset the TV by holding the power down because my CEC would not work. That fixed it.

They definitely did something with audio sync but I can't quite put my finger on it yet.

As i previously mentioned DD in Game Mode was late by around 6 frames, it is still the case but it looks like DTS is now a bit of the same. Again I haven't had time to run extensive tests.
It might just be me obsessing over it again because I noticed that something happened with audio sync.

Image quality looks a bit better I think and didn't notice anything wrong with Netflix.

The feature, having 2 different picture profiles for Live TV and app, that was removed in 1160 hasn't come back and I'm sure it never will.

Still the same issue with Game Mode's HDR profile.
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post #20590 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by tomfoolery_79 View Post
Hi Team! I'm having an issue with my KS8000 seeing my Playstation...about 50%-75% of the time I select my Playstation as the source from the TV menu, nothing gets output to the screen, it's just black. As you can imagine, playing a game with no video is quite difficult A workaround that I've found (that sucks) is to reach back and unplug the HDMI going into the ConnectBox and replug it in...this triggers it to work. I've also tried turning the TV on first, then the PS4...and vice versa. I've also turned the TV on and off again (while the PS4 is on)...still nothing. Everything works as intended every couple of times, but not everytime. Thoughts??
Hey bud, have you tried a different HDMI Port? Have you turned on the HDMI CEC on the PlayStation? If that is off, when you turn on the PS4 or when you select the source, it will not turn on.

It is very weird that if you unplug it and plug it back in, it works. Do you have any other issues with consoles or Apple TVs, or anything of that nature? If those are working then it is a handshake issue, or there is a problem with the HDMI Port on your PS4.

Dumb question, but have you tried a different HDMI cord?

If I can help with any questions let me know, I have a KS8000 in my living room and manland (now kid land), and a 8500 in my bedroom. I had issues with my 8500 and the 8000 with the connect box and handshake issues.

Nothing major and these are the best darn TVs on the market for gaming, no other TV comes close and the picture quality for movies are outstanding.

Have a good day.
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post #20591 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by timick1 View Post
Is there a way to reset the TV without having to unplug it? My TV is mounted on the wall with the outlet (and plug) located behind the TV.
I personally just unplug it from the back of the set - it's a bit of a reach to the wall outlet and I don't have the world's longest arms. But there is another way although unplugging seems to be the best and most thorough route judging from posts here. Simply turn the set off and continue to hold the remote's Power button until you see the SUHD logo come up on the screen.

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post #20592 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by javan robinson View Post
Are you playing it on Netflix and Amazon through the TV app or through an Xbox One S, Roku or something similar?

Is UHD color set to ON for all HDMI inputs?

When you press the info/display for you KS8000, does it say HDR in the top of the screen?


Like someone suggested, make sure you are on STANDARD or MOVIE (these are the only two settings that boht support and auto-change HDR - (game supports HDR but does not auto-change) ) and keep the settings menu OPEN and look at the contrast Watch something that is NOT HDR - and then while the settings menu is still open - go to something that IS HDR and you should see the contrast jump up.

I understand if you are watching through the app, you will need the remote to choose the program, but you can just as easily go back to the settings and make sure that the contrast and backlight jumped up.

Good luck and let us know
yes, i made sure UHD is on for all HDMI connectors...im playing contents through netflix premium account, whenever i do, im not able to see any pop-up for HDR contents being played. I went out last night to purchase a xbox one s just so i could do some further testing. Making sure all UDH 4K settings are enabled on the xbox box one s, i then playing contents through xbox netflix app, but still no luck in seeing any pictures that are automatically enhanced when HDR contents are being watch, I've checked back and forth while playing SDR & HDR contents to see if backlight/contrast would auto change, but it doesnt. Seen some folks saying theres a new firmware update, im going to update it and see there's any changes/luck with HDR being enabled by itself.
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post #20593 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by TB4XSBC View Post
You're missing out on the rec.2020 color space then. Leave it on Auto. Changing it to Native for HDR content means you won't get rec.2020 color.
You were a 100% right. Thanks again.
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post #20594 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Tajaz11 View Post
Hey bud, have you tried a different HDMI Port? Have you turned on the HDMI CEC on the PlayStation? If that is off, when you turn on the PS4 or when you select the source, it will not turn on.

It is very weird that if you unplug it and plug it back in, it works. Do you have any other issues with consoles or Apple TVs, or anything of that nature? If those are working then it is a handshake issue, or there is a problem with the HDMI Port on your PS4.

Dumb question, but have you tried a different HDMI cord?

If I can help with any questions let me know, I have a KS8000 in my living room and manland (now kid land), and a 8500 in my bedroom. I had issues with my 8500 and the 8000 with the connect box and handshake issues.

Nothing major and these are the best darn TVs on the market for gaming, no other TV comes close and the picture quality for movies are outstanding.

Have a good day.
I will check these things when I get home. I will say, I got this TV for Christmas and it connected fine for the first 2 weeks, it's just been the past week this has started. I haven't changed any settings after the initial set up. Also, you say this is the best gaming TV...I borderline regret my purchase. The picture is amazing, but the light bleed I have is unacceptable in pictures that have black. Part of Samsungs marketing of this TV is bragging about "blacker blacks". Guess I'll never experience that.

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post #20595 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by unknownbeef View Post
If you are using the Xbox One S to do this, you should also know that there seems to be a bug (at least with Netflix, not sure about Amazon) that prevents it from going back to SDR mode after playing something in HDR. You have to power cycle the Xbox to get SDR mode back after playing a 4k HDR video in Netflix.

yes im using xbox one s, and also the native netflix app
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post #20596 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:05 AM
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X3200 is the same model with very minor changes. It can readily be found for $579 certified refurbished or $700 new. That's the route I will be going.
My main reason for going with the X3300 is for MultiEQ XT32. The X3200 only has MultiEQ XT or I would jump on that! Thanks!
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post #20597 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by tomfoolery_79 View Post
I will check these things when I get home. I will say, I got this TV for Christmas and it connected fine for the first 2 weeks, it's just been the past week this has started. I haven't changed any settings after the initial set up. Also, you say this is the best gaming TV...I borderline regret my purchase. The picture is amazing, but the light bleed I have is unacceptable in pictures that have black. Part of Samsungs marketing of this TV is bragging about "blacker blacks". Guess I'll never experience that.


I haven't seen much bleed as I'm not that much of a videophile (if that is what that call it), however, I really don't pay attention too much. It has low input lag (no other TV is close, especially with no change in HDR 4K, you can't beat that with a TV) HDR picture is great, TV is beautiful for gaming.

Sorry you are having issues with it, but if you just got it, you may have just got a bad display, bud.

Return it and see if the next one pleases you, if not, exchange it for another TV you may like.


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post #20598 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:07 AM
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Haven't had issues but my large external is a 3.5 and has a separate power cable. Used a 128GB flash drive and a 64G MicroSD card in a small USB reader just fine. I would try the other USB port on the back of the TV too and see (not on the OneConnect).

My TV is wall mounted without room to get to the USB port on the back of the TV, and my Luminoodle is also plugged into it. But - I'm curious if this will work.
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post #20599 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:14 AM
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I haven't seen much bleed as I'm not that much of a videophile (if that is what that call it), however, I really don't pay attention too much. It has low input lag (no other TV is close, especially with no change in HDR 4K, you can't beat that with a TV) HDR picture is great, TV is beautiful for gaming.

Sorry you are having issues with it, but if you just got it, you may have just got a bad display, bud.

Return it and see if the next one pleases you, if not, exchange it for another TV you may like.


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You can't not notice it if you have it, videophile or not. I would return it, but it's a herculean task to get it hooked up in my 900lbs entertainment center and the thought of having to go through it all again is a big deterrent. I bought it online from Samsung directly, so I can't just take it to BestBuy, ya dig? I've also read too many posts about having their panels replaced only to have the situation worse or introduce issues that weren't there before. So I'm stuck.

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post #20600 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:18 AM
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I just got my 65" and love it but have a couple questions.

I am using ARC until I can afford a new receiver to replace my VSX 53 which doesn't handle 4K. It is not sending 5.1 back to my receiver even though the source material clearly states 5.1. I also tried optical and it only gives me stereo as well. Does the TV not handle passing through 5.1 os is there some special setting I am missing somewhere? I see 4 options, 2 of which are greyed out and then PCM and something called DTS Neo 2:5. PCM gives me stereo. DTS Neo (whatever that is) puts my receiver into DTS,

Secondly, what exactly is HDR+ that they have a setting for? The TV is advertised as HDR so I assume this HDR+ might be some sort of gimmick setting to give you HDR-like picture to non HDR content? Without it enabled, I put on Luke Cage on Netflix and the TV informed me it was playing HDR content but honestly I didn't see any difference than anything else 4K I watched that didn't say that. If I enable HDR+ it seems to brighten the screen.
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post #20601 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
I can't remember from the large number of posts who did the testing, but some users here have professional meters. My personal crib-notes says:
Smart LED controls local dimming on dark parts of the screen (will bleed).
Low =0.006 nits to 500 nits. High=0.006 nits to 1400 nits but more blooming. Off=0.06 to 500 nits.
It should be High for HDR content, to get the max contrast.
It should be Low for SDR content.
ie, the TV cannot produce more than 500 nits unless Smart LED is High.

Dynamic Contrast: Software based contrast enhancer. Used to crush blacks and clip whites in earlier fw.
Off for SDR content
Low for HDR content.

Obviously much of this is personal preferences, and what looks best to you, but if you wanted to know what's been discussed before, it's above. HTH.

Thank you for the reply, I'm using Dynamic contrast on Low also with HDR.
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post #20602 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by tomfoolery_79 View Post
You can't not notice it if you have it, videophile or not. I would return it, but it's a herculean task to get it hooked up in my 900lbs entertainment center and the thought of having to go through it all again is a big deterrent. I bought it online from Samsung directly, so I can't just take it to BestBuy, ya dig? I've also read too many posts about having their panels replaced only to have the situation worse or introduce issues that weren't there before. So I'm stuck.


I'm sorry man, you have a year for the manufacturer warranty, so if you change your mind you have time.

I had a screen replaced on a LG TV a few years ago, they sent a TV company out to do it. It could get worse or it might be better, ya dig?

Again, sorry bud. Let us know if you figure out the PS4 issue.


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post #20603 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Pat Seguin View Post
I just got my 65" and love it but have a couple questions.

I am using ARC until I can afford a new receiver to replace my VSX 53 which doesn't handle 4K. It is not sending 5.1 back to my receiver even though the source material clearly states 5.1. I also tried optical and it only gives me stereo as well. Does the TV not handle passing through 5.1 os is there some special setting I am missing somewhere? I see 4 options, 2 of which are greyed out and then PCM and something called DTS Neo 2:5. PCM gives me stereo. DTS Neo (whatever that is) puts my receiver into DTS,

Secondly, what exactly is HDR+ that they have a setting for? The TV is advertised as HDR so I assume this HDR+ might be some sort of gimmick setting to give you HDR-like picture to non HDR content? Without it enabled, I put on Luke Cage on Netflix and the TV informed me it was playing HDR content but honestly I didn't see any difference than anything else 4K I watched that didn't say that. If I enable HDR+ it seems to brighten the screen.
What is the source you say is 5.1 ? Are you sending DTS, DD or Uncompressed. If it's uncompressed you won't get more than 2 channel. The TV can't handle more than 2 uncompressed channel because of bandwidth restrictions.

Regarding HDR+, you are right
Regarding HDR on Netflix, you need to be in Movie mode for HDR to kick in. You won't have any notifications but brightness will go up to 20 automatically. Of course Netflix/Youtube needs to state that the content you want to watch is HDR.
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post #20604 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:33 AM
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I've been having a really frustrating time trying to get the HDR to look good on this TV. I don't know if my TV is defective or not. I've followed all the calibration guides and SDR content looks great in 4K but when I watch movies or play games in HDR the picture is very dark. I've done a lot of research and I know there is a misconception that HDR is supposed to make colors pop and look really saturated, but in reality it just makes the colors more accurate and natural. I actually lose detail with HDR mode though.

I've provided some screen screenshots to demonstrate what I am seeing. This is The Last of Us Remastered on the PS4 Slim 1080P with HDR Enabled in the Game. I have the UHD enabled on the HDMI Input, Backlight set to 20, Contrast at 100, Color Space on Auto, Eco Features are off, and Dynamic Contrast is off. The room in the game is supposed to be dimly lit but I don't think it should be as dark as it is with HDR on. I've uploaded a photo with SDR shots on top and HDR shots on bottom for comparison. In the SDR1 picture I uploaded you can easily see the bookshelf. In the HDR1 photo the bookshelf almost disappears. In the SDR 2 and HDR2 photos I uploaded you can see that the details of the desk have been lost in the darkness.

I have the same behavior with any HDR Content that I watch be it on Xbox One S, PS4, or even the native Netflix App. My Xbox One reports that HDR is fully working and supported by my TV yet everything still gets very dark. Forza Horizon 3 looks much better without HDR. If I set the dynamic contrast to medium it helps out the brightness a lot but at the cost of some loss of detail in whites and blacks.

Am I doing something wrong or is my TV Defective?
There is a misconception (shared by me at first after reading about HDR) that HDR makes the overall picture brighter. It doesn't. Although the TV automatically ramps up the backlight control when it switches to HDR mode, the extra brightness above roughly 100 nits is used only for highlights. The picture overall brightness level is intended to be 100 nits, the same as current SDR content. What really changes-and it matters for picture and color depth-is that the number of digital brightness steps from black to 100 nits goes from about 219 to almost 500. This allows much finer gradation in light and shadow and smoother color transitions. Combine this with a wide color gamut, and those brighter highlights, and you should get a much more realistic picture. If you are running your set at much over 120 nits at full white in non-HDR mode, it will be throttling back noticeably when playing HDR, and I think this is the reason many folks complain about HDR being dark or dim.
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post #20605 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:34 AM
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post #20606 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:45 AM
 
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Is there a way to reset the TV without having to unplug it? My TV is mounted on the wall with the outlet (and plug) located behind the TV.
You can always flip the circuit breaker for the room the TV is plugged into On and Off if reaching the plug is too difficult..
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post #20607 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:48 AM
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What is the source you say is 5.1 ? Are you sending DTS, DD or Uncompressed. If it's uncompressed you won't get more than 2 channel. The TV can't handle more than 2 uncompressed channel because of bandwidth restrictions.

Regarding HDR+, you are right
Regarding HDR on Netflix, you need to be in Movie mode for HDR to kick in. You won't have any notifications but brightness will go up to 20 automatically. Of course Netflix/Youtube needs to state that the content you want to watch is HDR.
It's the new NVidia Shield TV and I am playing some Netflix and Amazon Prime stuff that says 5.1. I also plugged in my Apple TV 4 and played the same stuff and still only got stereo.

The first day, I was in the standard mode but HDR did seem to be kicking in because I got the notification. Last night, I switched to movie mode and put in some picture settings I found on the internet. Picture looks great. I played Luke Cage and got the notification that it was playing an HDR source. Still looked great but I didn't see anything change when it said HDR. What am I supposed to be seeing in HDR vs non HDR?
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post #20608 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:52 AM
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Is there a way to reset the TV without having to unplug it? My TV is mounted on the wall with the outlet (and plug) located behind the TV.
holding the power button of the remote usually does the trick
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post #20609 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:54 AM
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There is a misconception (shared by me at first after reading about HDR) that HDR makes the overall picture brighter. It doesn't. Although the TV automatically ramps up the backlight control when it switches to HDR mode, the extra brightness above roughly 100 nits is used only for highlights. The picture overall brightness level is intended to be 100 nits, the same as current SDR content. What really changes-and it matters for picture and color depth-is that the number of digital brightness steps from black to 100 nits goes from about 219 to almost 500. This allows much finer gradation in light and shadow and smoother color transitions. Combine this with a wide color gamut, and those brighter highlights, and you should get a much more realistic picture. If you are running your set at much over 120 nits at full white in non-HDR mode, it will be throttling back noticeably when playing HDR, and I think this is the reason many folks complain about HDR being dark or dim.
Exactly! Thank you for explaining it so well.
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post #20610 of 37149 Old 01-20-2017, 06:57 AM
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It's the new NVidia Shield TV and I am playing some Netflix and Amazon Prime stuff that says 5.1. I also plugged in my Apple TV 4 and played the same stuff and still only got stereo.

The first day, I was in the standard mode but HDR did seem to be kicking in because I got the notification. Last night, I switched to movie mode and put in some picture settings I found on the internet. Picture looks great. I played Luke Cage and got the notification that it was playing an HDR source. Still looked great but I didn't see anything change when it said HDR. What am I supposed to be seeing in HDR vs non HDR?
Maybe there's some settings in you're Shield TV, I'm not sure I've never used one. Something along the line of Bitstream/Compressed/Uncompressed
I have an apple TV but left it on PCM since I do all my Netflix with the TV's app.

Also make sure that Bitstream is selected as an Audio Format in the TV System/Sound/Expert Settings/Audio Format menu

Do you have the same issue with the TV's Netflix app ?
Do you have other sources you could try like a Blu-Ray player, a console ?

Regarding HDR on Netflix.... well tbh it looks disappointing for me. I find it to have a minimal impact on the image. Probably because of the compression Netflix is using.

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