Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 714 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #21391 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 06:14 PM
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Can someone tell me what this is? Got my 55" ks8000 about 3 weeks ago. I just noticed the other day that there is a very tiny small white line that flashes every few seconds at the very bottom edge of the screen. It seems to come on for a second, then go away. It does it acRoss different inputs (cable, roku, built in apps). Only when I did an all black Light bleed test on YouTube I did not see it. I tried switching the fit to screen setting, but that had no effect. It seems like the light that flashes has similar color tones as the picture on the screen. I tried taking pictures with and without theven line so you can see what I'm talking about. I appreciate if anyone knows what this is and how to turn it off. Thanks!
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post #21392 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tito122283 View Post
"Samsung is rolling out a firmware update for its 2016 lineup of quantum dot SUHD TVs that adds an "HDR+" setting, giving them more and brighter colors, deeper blacks and improved contrast. It significantly enhances HDR content from providers like Netflix, Amazon and YouTube, and will also improve regular, standard dynamic range video. The result is punchier images and highly granular control for experts, according to Samsung".... so does that mean that HDR+ can be used when watching HDR videos? Or just movie and standard mode?
Where did you read this at?

And anybody want to comment on this or do you use HDR+ whilst viewing HDR content?
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post #21393 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 06:25 PM
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Samsung Gurus, Quick question regarding the audio out on the KS8000. I have a RPi running OSMC to the set. I have the optical out from the set running to my DTS capable receiver (older Pioneer VSX-1015TX with NO HDMI). I don't use the receiver for cable TV. In order to use the DTS output from OSMC, I have to set the audio to optical out on the set and then go into sound, expert settings and under audio format, and select DTS.

My dilemma is that I can ONLY select DTS when the video starts to play. And most frustrating is that I have to go through all these steps every time I switch HDMI inputs. The settings never stick even though I want them to for this particular input on the set.

Any solutions or am I stuck doing this everytime I want to watch something on that input?

The length of a film should be directly related to the endurance of the human bladder. ~Alfred Hitchcock
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post #21394 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 08:22 PM
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Don, I think what youre willing to do is commendable. I feel like it's not worth your time though, as you and I have discussed in PM, people don't read it anyway. They just post without searching or reading the first post. It's a losing battle my friend.
Yep, more than likely right on that one. Alright, scratch that. @aron7awol , HDR+ is your baby. So I would probably make a write up and maybe we can have a link to your post added to the FAQ or at the very least point people in that direction when the question comes up. Right now @tito122283 refuses to use the search thread function located in the upper right hand corner to find the answers to his questions. Maybe you can help him?


Official Samsung KS8000/8500 Owners Information PDF
Living Room: LG 55LE5500 Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360 w/Kinect
Bedroom: VIZIO E470VL VIZIO VSB200 Sound Bar Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360
Inner Sanctum: Samsung 65KS8000, Halo XBox One, GoW Xbox 360, Onkyo HT-S5300
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post #21395 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 09:22 PM
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Has anyone noticed that Samsung has pulled 1162.6 and now list 1160?
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post #21396 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 09:40 PM
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Dont have time for little jabs on here. @ this @ that.. i dont use the search feature because for some reason when i go to it, where it asks you if you want to search within the forum, mine is blanked out and does not let me search. Dont know why.. that's that.. But back to HDR+, can it be used while watching HDR Content? And for the person that asked where i read it from, i believe it was an article on engadget.. Thanks guys in advance

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post #21397 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Slipagent View Post
Has anyone noticed that Samsung has pulled 1162.6 and now list 1160?
Which site? 1162.6 is still up at the Korean support site. I don't recall noticing whether it was ever up on the US site.

(I received 1162.6 over the air.)
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post #21398 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleejusa View Post
Can someone tell me what this is? Got my 55" ks8000 about 3 weeks ago. I just noticed the other day that there is a very tiny small white line that flashes every few seconds at the very bottom edge of the screen. It seems to come on for a second, then go away. It does it acRoss different inputs (cable, roku, built in apps). Only when I did an all black Light bleed test on YouTube I did not see it. I tried switching the fit to screen setting, but that had no effect. It seems like the light that flashes has similar color tones as the picture on the screen. I tried taking pictures with and without theven line so you can see what I'm talking about. I appreciate if anyone knows what this is and how to turn it off. Thanks!
Does this happen on other devices and or inputs?
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post #21399 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 10:15 PM
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Anyone know if the Xbox one S upscales better than a good Samsung 4k tv like the KS8000? I run my Comcast cable tv through the Xbox One S. But I'm wondering if the Xbox One s upscales cable tv better than the Ks8000?
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post #21400 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mab2 View Post
Anyone know if the Xbox one S upscales better than a good Samsung 4k tv like the KS8000? I run my Comcast cable tv through the Xbox One S. But I'm wondering if the Xbox One s upscales cable tv better than the Ks8000?
If you have both why not try it yourself and see which you prefer?

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post #21401 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bobknavs View Post
Which site? 1162.6 is still up at the Korean support site. I don't recall noticing whether it was ever up on the US site.

(I received 1162.6 over the air.)
Did you have any problems or negative changes with 1162?
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post #21402 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 10:24 PM
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Hey all. Just shy of six months owning the KS8500 and I am starting to experience a huge problem. All four corners, upper right being the worst, are starting to be heavily discolored toward blue. It does not do it all the time though, but when it happens it is REALLY noticeable, kind of like when the magnet would go out on old tube TVs. Any help on how to fix it or what to do if I can't fix it would be great.
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post #21403 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 10:24 PM
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Do I have to order vesa screws to attach this to a tv stand or wall mount. I see it's 400 mm x 400mm VESA but the tv only came with plastic inserts, no screws.
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post #21404 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 10:51 PM
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Do I have to order vesa screws to attach this to a tv stand or wall mount. I see it's 400 mm x 400mm VESA but the tv only came with plastic inserts, no screws.
The screws usually come with the wall mount. But i think most people have to buy longer screws for the bottom holes because of the depth. On the 8500 model.
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post #21405 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 10:57 PM
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Hey all. Just shy of six months owning the KS8500 and I am starting to experience a huge problem. All four corners, upper right being the worst, are starting to be heavily discolored toward blue. It does not do it all the time though, but when it happens it is REALLY noticeable, kind of like when the magnet would go out on old tube TVs. Any help on how to fix it or what to do if I can't fix it would be great.
Looks to me like a panel issue. I don't think there is anything you can do to fix. Since you have had only 6 months, contact samsung and send them pictures of the screen. They will set up repair with a new panel.
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post #21406 of 36326 Old 01-29-2017, 11:00 PM
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Hi all,

I bought the 55" model about a month ago and have decided I'd like to wall mount, but I can't find the spacers. Not sure if I lost them or if they were never in the box in the first place (I bought a re-packaged model from Amazon Warehouse Deals). I've been searching around online but can't seem to find where I can buy/acquire a set ... any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.
I have an extra set if you can't find any. Let me know we can set up something.
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post #21407 of 36326 Old 01-30-2017, 01:54 AM
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Does HDR kick in with dynamic mode?
No.

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Originally Posted by tito122283 View Post
i ask because i keep hearing different answers.. some say only movie mode and standard mode and others say all preset modes except special viewing modes?
I've read every post in this thread, so please quote exactly - that means a URL - where have you heard "all preset modes except special viewing modes?". I've never read that nonsense here without a sharp correction being posted shortly after it. Whoever said that was completely and utterly wrong. There's no firmware version since the release of this TV where that was ever correct. To even suggest that someone said it only muddies the water (someone searching in future may find your post and believe it to be true)

The current situation is that HDR works in:
  • Movie (all firmwares)
  • Standard (v1125 and later, August 2016) [includes "PC mode" Standard]
  • HDR+ (added in v1125, August 2016)
  • Game (added around v1132-1140, September/October 2016)

That's the full list. It has never worked in the other modes. This means forget Dynamic, Natural, Sport, etc. Just don't use them. Forget them. Put them in the bin.

In those other crappy modes the TV will display "a picture", but it won't be HDR. (I would prefer it just shove up a big fat error box telling the user to switch to Movie mode, but that's me. That would have saved about 5,000 of the 21,000 posts here.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by tito122283 View Post
"Samsung is rolling out a firmware update for its 2016 lineup of quantum dot SUHD TVs that adds an "HDR+" setting, giving them more and brighter colors, deeper blacks and improved contrast. It significantly enhances HDR content from providers like Netflix, Amazon and YouTube, and will also improve regular, standard dynamic range video. The result is punchier images and highly granular control for experts, according to Samsung".... so does that mean that HDR+ can be used when watching HDR videos? Or just movie and standard mode?
Now you are quoting the press release from last year, about 11 firmware releases ago, when HDR+ was initially added in v1125. Yes HDR+ could be used, but it's really the SDR-to-HDR "upconvert" mode. Movie and Standard are generally better for viewing HDR content. But it's your choice. (BTW - ignore the marketing guff about it enhancing HDR content. That's just like turning up the Sharpness control "sharpens" a picture. Sure, but that's not the picture it was fed).

What you posted about - multiple times - has been answered many, many, many times in this thread already.

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post #21408 of 36326 Old 01-30-2017, 01:58 AM
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I want whites and like accurate skin tone coloring according to real life in person... now since I'm being told this isn't the accurate tone and the way it's originally meant to be seen I'm totally confused... shouldn't it look like real life?

Thanks so much for the links! It definitely makes sense.. the eyes having to adapt. I just can't believe I haven't been watching in the accurate intended tone my entire life... lol Idk... I might try to adapt for a few days I just like whites being white and not tinged yellow as well as it being more like real life such as skin tones and such instead of being all tan. So tv isn't supposed to really look realistic like I thought then? I most definitely notice that cool is way too blue but Standard just looks realistic..

I understand what you're saying, however...

It has to do with how our brain and eyes perceive color, as well as something called "color memory". Our brains have "learned" how objects should look (color memory), and we apply this knowledge to everything we see. However, human color memory is not very good or reliable.

As I mentioned before, since your brain and eyes have been conditioned to seeing a cooler/bluer, more dynamic picture, a "warmer" Color Tone will seem too "red" or "yellow" and too dim (cooler/bluer colors appear brighter than warmer/redder ones).

However, after a few days, your eyes and brain should adjust to the new more accurate "warmer" settings.

You said that, to your eyes, "whites" and the color/accuracy of skin tones don't look the same as they do in "real life". However, on my TV set, which I have set to "Movie" mode and a "Warm" color tone, the colors that I see on my TV do look closer to what I see in "real life". If I switch to a "cooler" setting, everything then looks far too "blue". The reason is that my brain and eyes have been conditioned to that "warmer" color tone.

Additionally, the "brightness" and "color temperature" of the light in your viewing room will also affect the way you perceive the colors on your TV screen.

For a much more in-depth explanation of this, see my next post below.


Richard
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post #21409 of 36326 Old 01-30-2017, 01:59 AM
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Exclamation Light and our Perception of Color

Light plays a HUGE role in the way we perceive color. It’s actually the color of the light that determines the color your brain will perceive. The color of light makes things appear to change throughout the day, even though the objects themselves remain the same.

At night, colors appear much darker and lose their saturation and intensity. At sunrise everything has a yellowish-orange cast. At noon on a sunny day, the environment is cooler and more blue. Under fluorescent light, everything appears more green. And at sunset, colors are deeper and cast in shadow.



As strange as it sounds, objects themselves don’t have color. They have properties that determine which wavelengths of light are absorbed, and which are reflected. It is the mixture of the reflected light that enters our eyes that gives us the perception of color.

(Question: Does a color exist if there is no one around to see it? )

In addition to "lighting", there are a number of other factors which play a role in our ability to accurately see color, such as, surrounding colors, poor color memory, color deficiency, retinal fatigue, age, etc.

"The Dress"

Do you recall the social media controversy around "The Dress"?
What did you see? "Blue and black" or "white and gold"?
(Note: The original picture is the one in the middle.)



It all has to do with our perception of color. Our eyes can play tricks on us as our brain is managing vast amounts of information and processing it the best it can. Without a point of reference, we each perceive color in our own way.

If you believe the dress picture was taken in bright sunlight, your brain will apply darker colors and you’ll think it’s "blue & black". But if you think the dress is hidden in a shadow, you’ll imagine the colors to be "white & gold".

The photo of the dress was not taken under ideal lighting conditions, and it is that lack of information that confused everyone’s brain. Lighting and the technology we use to view things is a major factor in color perception. Different people pick up on different visual cues, which changes how we interpret and perceive colors.

(Incidentally, the actual colour of the dress was confirmed to be "blue & black")

Color Memory

While lighting explains part of the dress color mystery, there’s something else at play. Our brains have "learned" how objects should look (color memory), and we apply this knowledge to everything we see. However, human color memory is not very reliable.

Have you ever gone to the Paint Store and tried to choose, from memory, a color from "color samples" that will match the color of your couch or curtains? How did that work out for you? Even looking at two colors across the room from each other to see if they match is often futile. To compare colors, you need to look at them together, side-by-side, in a neutral environment… preferably under controlled lighting conditions.

Take "white", for example. Magazine pages, newspapers, and printer paper are all white, but if you lay them side-by-side, you’ll see that each "white" is actually quite different. The newsprint will appear more yellow, and next to the newspaper the printer paper will probably look even brighter than you originally thought. Whites look alike unless we have a point of reference to change our impression.

Conversely, the same white sheet of paper viewed under different light sources with different color temperatures and intensities (bright sunlight vs. a tungsten bulb for instance) will be perceived as a different "color" or "shade of white". However, your brain can easily fool your eyes into seeing the same shade of white in both cases. That's because your brain knows what color the paper should be and can compensate for the effect of the lighting and trick your eyes into actually seeing the same white.

This feature of the visual system is also known as "chromatic adaptation", or "color constancy". Chromatic adaptation is the human visual system’s ability to adjust to changes in illumination in order to preserve the appearance of object colors despite the wide variation of light which might be reflected from an object and observed by our eyes. [Wikipedia: Chromatic Adaptation]

Here’s a cool optical illusion from R. Beau Lotto (labofmisfits.com) that illustrates how color memory can completely change the appearance of a color. The center squares on the top and front side of the cube look pretty different – orange on the front, brown on the top, right?




But when you "mask" the rest of the squares, you can see the two are actually identical.



That’s because our brain subconsciously factors in the light source and mentally corrects the color on the front of the cube as shadowed. Amazing isn’t it?

Below is another example of this. The squares marked A and B are the same shade of gray.



White Balance and Color Temperature

To understand the concept of White Balance, you need to first understand the concept of Color Temperature.

Color temperature is a characteristic of visible light. It provides a method of describing these characteristics and is measured in Kelvin (K). A light having a higher color temperature will have more blue light or larger Kelvin value as compared to a light with a lower color temperature, which has a smaller Kelvin value.

5000K produces roughly neutral light, whereas 3000K and 9000K produce light spectrums which shift to contain more orange and blue wavelengths, respectively. As the color temperature rises, the color distribution becomes cooler. This may not seem intuitive, but results from the fact that shorter wavelengths contain light of higher energy.



You must have noticed some photos turn out with an orange/yellow cast if shot under a tungsten bulb (a normal household incandescent bulb) or a bluish cast if shot under fluorescent lights. This occurs because each source of light possesses a different color temperature.

In a photo taken under the midday sun there is the whole spectrum of light (which makes up "white" sunlight). Under these conditions, the colors in an image appear nearest to the "true" colors.

An image taken under tungsten lighting, without adjusting the digital camera for white balance, produces the dull orange shade as it spreads the biased light. Similarly, an image taken under the fluorescent lighting produces a brighter bluish cast. Capturing accurate colors with a camera starts with proper White Balance. Setting the white balance will tell the camera what white really is, so it can capture the correct colors based on the light source.

"White Balance" Settings

As I mentioned in my "Picture Settings Guide", Color Temperature (or the temperature of "white") refers to the color of the light source that's being displayed on your screen. Generally speaking, the "Cool" settings are more suited for viewing in a brightly-lit room whereas the "Warm" settings are more suited for viewing in a dimly-lit room.

The "White Balance" setting on the TV is used to make more precise adjustments to the color temperature of the picture in order to make white objects look white and the overall picture appear natural. It changes the overall mixture of colors in an image and is used for "color correction" in order to provide a neutral shade of white and make colors appear pleasing and as accurate as possible.

In other words, adjusting the "White Balance" of an image removes unrealistic color casts, so that objects which appear white in person are rendered white on your screen. However these values cannot be accurately adjusted "by eye". Even the best trained eye cannot determine if the values are near 6500K as our eyes cannot accurately detect differences in the luminance of bright images such as white.

The ability of the display to do this all the way from darkest gray to the brightest white is called "Grayscale Tracking", which is just White Balance at multiple levels of image intensity. It has to be purely black or white or a shade of grey in between. This greatly improves your display's ability to not only produce black and white accurately, but every other color in between. If the display can't do this well, then all of the colors will look very unnatural.

In order to properly calibrate your TV’s "White Balance", you need to optimize the red, green and blue scales at each level of brightness along the black/white spectrum (grayscale). However, properly adjusting these values requires using expensive calibration instruments and software. Therefore, unless you are professionally calibrating your TV, you should leave these adjustments alone.

Most Accurate Picture Mode and Color Tone

Most TV "experts" and professional TV calibrators agree that the most accurate picture mode 'out of the box' is the "Movie" mode - that is to say, it is the mode that will bring you closest to a properly calibrated display.

Additionally, according to the "experts", you should also set the "Color Tone" setting to one of the "Warm" settings. Why? Because it is the setting that will bring the image closest to the recommended D65 television standard.

In order for your TV to adhere to the director's vision, it needs to reproduce white as closely as possible to the ISF recommended D65 (Daylight 6500K) which is similar to ambient daylight at midday (on a cloudy day). D65 is the standard used throughout the film and TV world.

If you have been conditioned to seeing a cooler/bluer, more dynamic picture, the "Movie" mode and a "Warm" Color Tone will appear far too "red" or "yellow" and too dim at first (cooler/bluer colors appear brighter than warmer/redder ones). However give it a few days for your eyes and brain to adjust to the new more accurate settings (trust me, they will). After a few days, if you go back to one of the more "dynamic" modes and a "cooler" Color Tone, you’ll notice that the picture will appear far too bright and too blue.

Now all that said, it does come back to a matter of personal preference. In the end, it's your TV and your eyes, so adjust it the way you want.



P.S. Be sure to also check out my article: "What is Color Volume?"

Richard

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post #21410 of 36326 Old 01-30-2017, 02:07 AM
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Light plays a HUGE role in the way we perceive color. It’s actually the color of the light that determines the color your brain will perceive. The color of light makes things appear to change throughout the day, even though the objects themselves remain the same.
Great post. I can see that being linked in a ">>THIS POST<<" in future

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post #21411 of 36326 Old 01-30-2017, 05:31 AM
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Yep, more than likely right on that one. Alright, scratch that. @aron7awol , HDR+ is your baby. So I would probably make a write up and maybe we can have a link to your post added to the FAQ or at the very least point people in that direction when the question comes up. Right now @tito122283 refuses to use the search thread function located in the upper right hand corner to find the answers to his questions. Maybe you can help him?

I'm the last one to defend laziness, so more of an FYI. The phrase "HDR+" is somewhat of a special case when it comes to the forum search. The + character is most likely ignored / filtered by the forum software to prevent any MySQL injection attacks, and even if it wasn't, it may be treated as a boolean operator by MySQL itself. Therefore searching for HDR+ actually returns every post that contains "HDR" which, as you might imagine, is a huge number of posts which mostly have nothing to do with HDR+. Not really anyone's fault, just a quirk of forum database back-ends and security measures.
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post #21412 of 36326 Old 01-30-2017, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Slipagent View Post
The screws usually come with the wall mount. But i think most people have to buy longer screws for the bottom holes because of the depth. On the 8500 model.
Thanks. Do you have to buy them from Samsung?
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post #21413 of 36326 Old 01-30-2017, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ketamine View Post
Did you just purchase one and it came with light bleed or your replacement has light bleed?

Either way if your getting it replaced I hope it goes well! Would love to get an update when it's done.


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Yes, I just bought my TV in November and is started with a light bleed, the replacement panel was just as bad so I rejected it. Now they have ordered a second new replacement panel, as well as a new power supply. Strangely enough, after they put everything back together with the original display I would say the light bleed has decreased by a solid 75%.

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post #21414 of 36326 Old 01-30-2017, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by maxlurker View Post
Hello AVS,

I've been lurking here for years and this will be my first post... sadly?

I bought a new ks8000 a couple days ago. I calibrated the tv, dealt with home theater issues, and finally last night I got it all setup perfectly.

This morning, I woke up and found out that my daughter threw a toy to the screen in one of her tantrums (she is 2 and a half), and she cracked the screen....

I've been looking around to get an accidental protection plan to see if I can get my tv replaced/fixed, but it seems that no one covers this type of damage...

Please help, what can I do?
My son did this with my last TV. Didn't throw a tantrum, just wasn't paying attention and launched a matchbox car at it. I didn't make a claim against insurance because in my experience they look for any reason to drop people.

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post #21415 of 36326 Old 01-30-2017, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by MeganElisabeth View Post
Exactly!! I want whites and like accurate skin tone coloring according to real life in person... now since I'm being told this isn't the accurate tone and the way it's originally meant to be seen I'm totally confused... shouldn't it look like real life?
Standard works best for me. Warm settings affect more than just white, it will also distort other colors, even black. Its your TV and you have plenty of time to find what works best for you.

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post #21416 of 36326 Old 01-30-2017, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by joe75xp View Post
Standard works best for me. Warm settings affect more than just white, it will also distort other colors, even black. Its your TV and you have plenty of time to find what works best for you.
I'm a big standard fan too. Warm 1. Looks like real people.
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post #21417 of 36326 Old 01-30-2017, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mab2 View Post
I'm a big standard fan too. Warm 1. Looks like real people.
If you want to play with werds.. Warm2 is the "standard". I wouldn't recommend Warm2 to anyone. I would lump that setting in with Dynamic or Sport as something that should never be used. I can use Warm1 for HDR content but even there I prefer using Standard Color Tone.
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post #21418 of 36326 Old 01-30-2017, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Sleejusa View Post
Can someone tell me what this is? Got my 55" ks8000 about 3 weeks ago. I just noticed the other day that there is a very tiny small white line that flashes every few seconds at the very bottom edge of the screen. It seems to come on for a second, then go away. It does it acRoss different inputs (cable, roku, built in apps). Only when I did an all black Light bleed test on YouTube I did not see it. I tried switching the fit to screen setting, but that had no effect. It seems like the light that flashes has similar color tones as the picture on the screen. I tried taking pictures with and without theven line so you can see what I'm talking about. I appreciate if anyone knows what this is and how to turn it off. Thanks!
if that only happens during TV viewing it is, in my opinion normal. Now I'm not an expert but from what I understood some TV programs have timecodes or stuff like that embedded in the outer frame of the image that were used by analog equipment. However sometimes it kinda "leaks" on the outer edge of the actual content's picture frame.
That is why now 99.99% of TV sets, commercials or consumers, come with Overscan activated by default. Do not worry If you don't see that line anywhere else.

Edit : re-looking at your pictures it might also be that the Tizen UI didn't totally disappear. That happened to me too once. a soft reset with the remote did the trick.
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post #21419 of 36326 Old 01-30-2017, 07:05 AM
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First game in which I'm using Warm2 instead Standard Color tone is FFXV. HDR in this game is great. For everything else (gaming related) I'm using Standard Color tone. Warm2 is just for me to yellowish. I don't have tools for professional calibration so it's hard to achieve that whites looks white on Warm2.

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post #21420 of 36326 Old 01-30-2017, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by joe75xp View Post
If you want to play with werds.. Warm2 is the "standard". I wouldn't recommend Warm2 to anyone. I would lump that setting in with Dynamic or Sport as something that should never be used. I can use Warm1 for HDR content but even there I prefer using Standard Color Tone.
I like standard too. Anyone here have an Xbox One S and run cable tv through it? Wondering if the KS8000 or the Xbox has the better upscaler.

I general what settings do you like watching cable tv?
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