Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 753 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #22561 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by sjackson View Post
Yes I know it has no HDMI.

The Smart Remote can emit an IR blast to control the soundbar. It just won't work on HDMI 1 where the Shield is connected to. If I switch to the satellite tuner the volume control works from the Smart Remote to the Dali Kubik One.
Without the HDMI connection, the TV cannot see the Sound Bar. If the TV cannot identify the Soundbar, it simply cannot send an IR code to control the volume. Unlike the HDMI, the optical is a one way connection from from the TV to an external device. Maybe the TV remote is simply controlling the volume on your Satellite tuner and not the Sound Bar.
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post #22562 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by acefr View Post
Without the HDMI connection, the TV cannot see the Sound Bar. If the TV cannot identify the Soundbar, it simply cannot send an IR code to control the volume. Unlike the HDMI, the optical is a one way connection from from the TV to an external device. Maybe the TV remote is simply controlling the volume on your Satellite tuner and not the Sound Bar.
No. The remote can control optical sound bars just fine. I use it to control my Vizio optical-only bar without issue. The "trick" is that you have to set up a device on an HDMI port and then associate the soundbar with it. My PS4 is false-flagged as a Sony BluRay player. NES Mini? BluRay player. XBOX One thankfully has a profile, so that's easier. Search for my earlier posts for more detailed instructions.
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post #22563 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by shobuddy View Post
I don't know what dead pixels looks like so I've attached several pictures of a spot on the top left hand corner of the TV where there is always a mark. Its not something physical (dirt, etc.) on the surface of the screen so I'm wondering if this is a dead pixel. The spot is circled on each screenshots and I tried to take pictures with various backgrounds. I got my TV a week ago and love it so far.
Nothing is perfect. If you don't notice it during normal view, just ignore it.
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post #22564 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 04:10 PM
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No. The remote can control optical sound bars just fine. I use it to control my Vizio optical-only bar without issue. The "trick" is that you have to set up a device on an HDMI port and then associate the soundbar with it. My PS4 is false-flagged as a Sony BluRay player. NES Mini? BluRay player. XBOX One thankfully has a profile, so that's easier. Search for my earlier posts for more detailed instructions.
I am not sure I understand your approach. How do you maintain the HDMI connection for the sound bar when it is not physically connected via HDMI? Doesn't the TV check for active connection when it is powered on? Maybe you can shed some light on how to setup the Smart Remote to control Sjackson's optical-only DALI KUBIK ONE soundbar.
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post #22565 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by acefr View Post
I am not sure I understand your approach. How do you maintain the HDMI connection for the sound bar when it is not physically connected via HDMI? Doesn't the TV check for active connection when it is powered on? Maybe you can shed some light on how to setup the Smart Remote to control Sjackson's optical-only DALI KUBIK ONE soundbar.
For an optical only bar you need to jump through some hoops.

1. Connect sound bar via optical port.

2. Go to Universal Remote setup and add a new Home Theater device. If your brand isn't included on the list, go up and search for it. A partial string will work ("Viz" will find Vizio). What you're doing here is loading a remote code into the Smart Remote, which lets it control the bar using its IR blaster.

3. Do the power test. If your bar turns on, you're set. Click yes and move on to the next step. If it doesn't, try searching the exact model number or other terms until you get a working code.

4. Go to sound settings and set it to optical so you only get sound from sound bar (turns internal speakers off).

5. Go BACK to the Universal Remote setup. Add a new device to the HDMI port you want to use. This is simple if you have a device that's on the list, like a cable box or an XBOX One. If you're trying to get the remote working when your device isn't on the list (like a PS4), you have to set up a "fake" device. I recommend a BluRay player (any brand should be fine). If you're making a "fake" device, lie and say you pass the power test. For example, I tell the TV that my PS4 is a Sony BluRay player.

6. After you add the device, you'll be back at the Universal Remote's main menu. Go over to the soundbar and select it. You'll get an option to "use with" or "add" (I forget the exact term, but it should be obvious) a device. Pick the device you just added (my "Sony BluRay").

7. Confirm the next dialog that pops up, which should show the device connected to the TV over HDMI and the sound bar over optical.

This will change the name of that HDMI port in the Sources menu to something like Sony+Vizio (the brand names of the device and bar). Once you're on that input, you'll be able to control the soundbar using the remote. Now that you're set up correctly, you can re-name and re-label it (I changed Sony+Vizio to PS4 and changed the label to game console).

If you go to that input and then open the TV apps, the remote will also be able to control volume when using the TV's built in apps. Remote will also control the volume if you turn the TV on and go straight to apps so long as the last input it was on before being turned off is associated with the soundbar.

My bar doesn't power on when I turn on the TV. I have to hit volume up or down one time to turn it on. Doesn't turn off with TV either, but it turns off after 10-15 minutes and uses barely any power, so that's not a big deal.
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post #22566 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 05:01 PM
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Hi everyone,
I purchased the un55ks8000 this past weekend and I'm going through the process of setup. I have a few questions.

I have a Verizon FIOS set top box connected via Hdmi, and also a Sony blu-ray home theater system connected via a 2nd Hdmi cable. Would I benefit from newer Hdmi cables?

Also, I'm sending my audio from the FIOS box to the Sony home theater via digital optical cable. This is working fine for watching regular TV and also blu-rays. But, if I go to one of the streaming services on the TV (Netflix, etc) I still get the audio from the FIOS box. How can I get the audio from the streaming services to play through the Sony blu-ray home theater? Should I remove the digital optical cable from between the FIOS box and the home theater and put it from the TV to the home theater?

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post #22567 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 05:02 PM
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I've been using my 55" KS8000 for going on 3 months now and suddenly it doesn't want to output sound to anything except the TV speakers :-/ I had been using ARC to output sound to my receiver but it suddenly stopped working today and it won't even output sound over optical
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post #22568 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by GrayWolf323 View Post
I've been using my 55" KS8000 for going on 3 months now and suddenly it doesn't want to output sound to anything except the TV speakers :-/ I had been using ARC to output sound to my receiver but it suddenly stopped working today and it won't even output sound over optical
Try unplug power. If that doesn't work, try Universal Remote setup to re-add AVR.
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post #22569 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by LETH2AL View Post
Hello everyone and sorry in advance again if people have already asked what I'm about to. I have a few questions. I have the 65ks8000. US

1. The center button of the remote that came with the TV does not bring up the display info anymore i.e. resolution, frame rate, hdr, etc. Is this a setting I turned off somehow? It showed that info when I first started using the TV.

2. I've had edge lit displays before so I know that you can see light from the edges from time to time and I'm fine with that. On my display I can see it across almost the whole bottom of screen. For example because I didn't have time to take pics, on my PS4 Pro home screen (default blue) I can see it across the whole bottom. I don't see it at the top or the sides, just the bottom. That is with the backlight set to 6 and in a decently well lit room. Should I return it or is this normal? It is slight but definitely noticeable.

3.What am I doing wrong in game mode? For some reason hdr doesn't save my settings like it does in movie mode.

4. I have 10 gbps HDMI cables right now, are those going to be enough for everything this TV can do?

Thanks again!
1. try to reset smart hub
2. picture would be nice. We can't really imagine it but a few people have reported this issue. You should search the thread
3. Game mode doesn't have a separate HDR profile. This is mentionned in the FAQ on first page.
4. HDMI 2.0a cables (18 gb/s) are recommended if you hook the TV with HDMI 2.0 devices (PS4 Pro for example. It comes with such cable).
Here are some pics of the white across the bottom of the screen. That's not normal is it?
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post #22570 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 06:50 PM
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Mine did too (1 hour ahead). I had to manually change it.
Mine also changed...Turned off DST.
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post #22571 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 06:58 PM
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Here are some pics of the white across the bottom of the screen. That's not normal is it?
Looks pretty normal to me... seen it on a bunch of these sets.

My first panel had it more prominently than the second, and it was of a blue tone, but I did not have the panel exchanged because of it.
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post #22572 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 07:08 PM
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Here are some pics of the white across the bottom of the screen. That's not normal is it?
See the first post of this forum for suggestions on adjusting the backlight and Smart LED settings to help with light bleed.
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post #22573 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 07:13 PM
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Here are some pics of the white across the bottom of the screen. That's not normal is it?
Looks pretty normal to me... seen it on a bunch of these sets.

My first panel had it more prominently than the second, and it was of a blue tone, but I did not have the panel exchanged because of it.
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Here are some pics of the white across the bottom of the screen. That's not normal is it?
See the first post of this forum for suggestions on adjusting the backlight and Smart LED settings to help with light bleed.
So you wouldn't exchange it for that if you just bought it? I just picked this up Sunday. And thanks for the replies.
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post #22574 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by shobuddy View Post
I don't know what dead pixels looks like so I've attached several pictures of a spot on the top left hand corner of the TV where there is always a mark. Its not something physical (dirt, etc.) on the surface of the screen so I'm wondering if this is a dead pixel. The spot is circled on each screenshots and I tried to take pictures with various backgrounds. I got my TV a week ago and love it so far.
Mine has the same thing. It looks like some microscopically small piece of dirt that is underneath the surface of the screen. It changes depending on your viewing angle, so I don't think it's a dead or stuck pixel. I just think it's a byproduct of an imperfect manufacturing or assembly process. Mine is barely visible from 12 inches away, and certainly not visible from any sort of normal viewing distance. I just ignore it, which I know is hard considering how much we pay for these TV sets. If your screen is fine otherwise I would just enjoy the set and not worry about trying to replace the panel or exchange it.
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post #22575 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 08:03 PM
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Here are some pics of the white across the bottom of the screen. That's not normal is it?
Mine has a glow along the bottom edge as well, I think this is a characteristic of edge lit TVs. What type of panel do you have? Mine is panel fa01
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post #22576 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 08:17 PM
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Mine has a glow along the bottom edge as well, I think this is a characteristic of edge lit TVs. What type of panel do you have? Mine is panel fa01
Interestingly enough, my second panel (can't tell if it is AA01 of FA01 as I have the original back panel) has almost no top and bottom bleed, at least compared to my original panel.

I wonder if it is actually a different series.
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post #22577 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 08:31 PM
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You really should buy your own modem and router. Time warner gave me a ubee all one one box and it only lasted 2 days in my house before i realized what a huge POS that thing is. They install their own custom firmware on it so it is stupidly locked down and you cannot adjust much of anything.

Go pick up a ARRIS SURFboard for a modem. The model you want will depend on the internet package you have but Costco sells one for 90 bucks that will more than likely be more then enough for you. Then go buy your own router, you will have way better wifi range and quality then you ever will dealing with the all in one crap they give you. Plus you aren't just throwing money away on a router rental which is like 10-15 bucks a month.
Good to know, and definitely agree on the whole rental thing. While it isn't breaking the bank, I could have bought a wireless router and so much more with the money I've spent by renting. Given our speed, I've been eyeballing the Nighthawk myself.

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Santa Clarita Diet looks pretty nice IMO.
Cool. I've been meaning to check that one out.

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Here are some pics of the white across the bottom of the screen. That's not normal is it?
See the first post of this forum for suggestions on adjusting the backlight and Smart LED settings to help with light bleed.
That, and maybe post your picture settings when asking if something is normal. Because without that information we have no idea. Use the movie settings defaults (even when gaming) with some minor tweaking because I watch in a light controlled room. I have minimal light bleed across mine, but it tends to disappear when watching most things. While some feel this is unacceptable (Which does have some validity given the cost), most of us have grown accustom to it.
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Official Samsung KS8000/8500 Owners Information PDF
Living Room: LG 55LE5500 Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360 w/Kinect
Bedroom: VIZIO E470VL VIZIO VSB200 Sound Bar Sony BDP‑BX510 XBox 360
Inner Sanctum: Samsung 65KS8000, Halo XBox One, GoW Xbox 360, Onkyo HT-S5300
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post #22578 of 36529 Old 02-14-2017, 09:02 PM
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...I've been eyeballing the Nighthawk myself...
I moved to the Nighthawk X4S a few months ago and it has been a solid performer. Better signal throughout the house and handles multiple wireless/wired connections without even breathing hard.
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post #22579 of 36529 Old 02-15-2017, 12:21 AM
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Well, I have only owned Samsung's and a Panasonic Plasma. The plasma never had these issues either. I never used game mode on my old Samsung because it looked horrible like you are experiencing on this set. Your eyes will eventually adjust to the SOE. Try judder reduction on 3 and then every few days increase it a notch. I don't notice SOE any more and I have it set to 6. If I go higher I notice it but I'm sure after a few days i'll adjust again. Sony handles motion differently than Samsung. It bothers some more than others. I personally hate the way Samsung handles motion but I couldn't spend the extra $1000 at the time of purchase to get the Sony 930D. It's come down since then but I am out of my return window.


Same here I came from a Panasonic plasma and never ever experienced any of this. I was able to instantly notice the motion blur issues on this set. The problem with turning on AMP is that the input goes up over 100ms which is bad. I don't really notice it while watching movies or tv. I can always see it while gaming and it's annoying.


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Anyone know what this white spot would be?
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post #22581 of 36529 Old 02-15-2017, 04:03 AM
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Could someone tell me where on the box or tv I could see the date of production on the KS7000 (europe).
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post #22582 of 36529 Old 02-15-2017, 04:05 AM
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Try unplug power. If that doesn't work, try Universal Remote setup to re-add AVR.
thanks! power cycling fixed the issue
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post #22583 of 36529 Old 02-15-2017, 06:06 AM
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Mine did too (1 hour ahead). I had to manually change it.
Same here. It started last week-end I think.
I'm on OTA and the time was either OK or 1 hour ahead depending on the channel I was viewing.
I disabled DST and the issue disappeared.

Samsung UN55KS8000 || Sony BDVE-980W || PS4 Pro
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post #22584 of 36529 Old 02-15-2017, 06:13 AM
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I've been eyeballing the Nighthawk myself.
Amazon Goldbox Deal of the Day: Nighthawk AC1750
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post #22585 of 36529 Old 02-15-2017, 06:15 AM
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Anyone know what this white spot would be?
Beats me. Imperfection in the anti-glare coating? From the photo it looks like your TV frame is bent.
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post #22586 of 36529 Old 02-15-2017, 06:24 AM
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Here are some pics of the white across the bottom of the screen. That's not normal is it?

Mine doesn't do that, but it's not unheard of. I use imagics suggested settings which keeps the backlight at a lower level, so maybe that's why I don't get that.
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post #22587 of 36529 Old 02-15-2017, 06:25 AM
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Exact same thing happened to me too - I am also using OTA and noticed the guide was off by 1 hour. I changed the DST setting from Auto to Off and it worked. It looks like there is a firmware issue with the DTS date with these sets.....

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Same here. It started last week-end I think.
I'm on OTA and the time was either OK or 1 hour ahead depending on the channel I was viewing.
I disabled DST and the issue disappeared.
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post #22588 of 36529 Old 02-15-2017, 06:30 AM
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Question for OTA users - I recently moved from the JS8500 to the KS8000 and noticed with the new OS version the OTA EPG operates different. Before I was able to page up\down and scroll from my lowest channel (2.1) backwards to my highest channel (57.1) and vise versa. However, with the KS series once I get to channel 2.1 in the guide it wont go down and back to the 57.1 and lower channels. I have to page up all the way to get to the other end of the channels.

Just an annoyance - but does anyone know if there are any settings to change this?
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post #22589 of 36529 Old 02-15-2017, 06:46 AM
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As time has gone on there's been more speculation as to why we don't have it. The best theory is fundamental to how Game mode works. We know that Game mode turns "a bunch of stuff" off to get the super-low input lag. So it's mooted that the HDR-SDR auto-detection stuff is part of what is turned off. If this is the case, it explains a lot of things - including why two profiles wasn't in from the start, and why two profiles still hasn't been added.
That theory seems implausible to me. Not saying it's not impossible, just unlikely. The HDR-SDR auto-detection isn't turned off, since the TV successfully detects and displays HDR in Game Mode when fed an HDR signal. It successfully displays a proper image using a different bit-depth, colour space, gamma curve or what not. It successfully detects the change in signal type and displays appropriately. What it doesn't do is change the profile settings. I am having trouble wrapping my head around the idea that profile changes are being 'disabled' to save processing time. It should be a subroutine that gets called once to change the profile when the switch to HDR happens and then never run again. Compared to having to take a 4K frame and sharpen, adjust gamma, resize, denoise, interpolate between previous and future frames for AMP to work, and all other kinds of processing that takes a lot of CPU time, making a call to change backlight settings once should be inconsequential.

That's not to say I have a better idea on why Game Mode doesn't switch profiles. I can only assume it's a design choice. When the TV first came out, I think only Movie Mode allowed HDR and a separate profile for HDR? Allowing HDR and a separate profile in other modes came in later firmwares. Maybe they will add it later, or maybe it's just not on their Feature List. I don't know.
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post #22590 of 36529 Old 02-15-2017, 06:50 AM
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Not happy with motion issues AT ALL!!!

So, I just picked up the ks8000 a few days ago. I'm replacing a Panasonic TC-65ST50 (which i absolutely loved) because my son cracked the screen. ?

I'll cut right to the chase. After hours of setting changes I still can't counteract how bad this tv handles motion.

Are others having the same issue???

I will say, I watched some 4K material throught the TV's YouTube app -- It looked incredible -- sharp and colorful with zero motion issues.

When I watched the same video, but through the PS4 YouTube app (run through reciever) although slight, the quality was not as good.

So what is causing this?

Cablevision cable box (HD material) run through a Denon 2313ci receiver looks less than impressive.

I also noticed white text on screen is full of black dots and the borders are not sharp at all

Am I missing something or is this what I should expect.

Even my wife, who can watch SD letterboxed 4:3 movies and never know the difference, asked me if something was wrong with the tv.

Not good.
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denon s740h , extra , hdmi input , KS8000/KS8500 , no picture , one connect fail , xbox one s

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