Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 961 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #28801 of 36529 Old 08-28-2017, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
Back on topic then! This is good news for us:

http://flatpanelshd.com/news.php?sub...&id=1503914052


This gets more momentum to hopefully avoid HDR10Plus being squeezed out before it gets a chance.
That's nice. But it's time to talk FOOTBALL and the ks8000!
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post #28802 of 36529 Old 08-28-2017, 07:19 PM
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Hi guys, first time posting here...I have two KS-8000s 1 55" and one 65"....
Yesterday I noticed that the 65" will go into HDR mode, however the brightness will not switch to 20 in standard mode. It will only turn itself to 20 in movie mode. My bedroom 55" will go to 20 in any mode. Is this normal? Both sets have Nvidia shield playing the HDR video...
I have also experienced the dimming issue on both sets where the picture gets extremely dark and I have to go into the picture mode and switch it to something else then back to standard.
Reading up on these, and other issues, I'm a little puzzled as to how such a major brand / model can have such serious bugs? I got my sets for under $1,000 for the 65" and $700 for the 55", but the retail on these can be upward of $2k...Is this type of stuff common in high end tvs?
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post #28803 of 36529 Old 08-28-2017, 08:08 PM
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[QUOTE=tubaman1000;54656710]Is there a way to prevent the TV from auto-updating to a new version of the firmware when you are connected to the internet?

I've owned a couple of these ks8000's and even when I turned OFF auto-update in the settings, at some point soon after I was connected to the internet, it turned itself back on and updated on it's own.

(Since I enjoy streaming Netflix through the TV, I need to be connected to the internet.)[/QUOTE



If you go into the software update screen and hit check for updates it will remember that and update even if auto update is off.
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post #28804 of 36529 Old 08-28-2017, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by accordex View Post
Hi guys, first time posting here...I have two KS-8000s 1 55" and one 65"....
Yesterday I noticed that the 65" will go into HDR mode, however the brightness will not switch to 20 in standard mode. It will only turn itself to 20 in movie mode. My bedroom 55" will go to 20 in any mode. Is this normal?
I assume you mean backlight and not brightness...

You or someone in your household probably mistakenly made an adjustment to the backlight while HDR was active in Standard Mode. Just raise it back up and it will be remembered.
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post #28805 of 36529 Old 08-28-2017, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jconjason View Post
I assume you mean backlight and not brightness...

You or someone in your household probably mistakenly made an adjustment to the backlight while HDR was active in Standard Mode. Just raise it back up and it will be remembered.
Thanks!
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post #28806 of 36529 Old 08-28-2017, 10:58 PM
 
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Guys any reason why standard mode would look slightly better than movie mode? It's crazy and even Kevin finds it weird as well. He set movie mode for night time viewing and standard mode for day time viewing. Although for some reason, for instance I tested it out on Game of Thrones, Secret Life of Pets, & Finding Dory on Netflix with the exception of Game of Thrones which is HBO Now. When I switch between standard and movie mode, in standard mode the blacks/shadows get slightly darker and more natural as opposed to movie mode in which it tends too look slightly washed out?
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post #28807 of 36529 Old 08-28-2017, 11:15 PM
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Tried searching for this but didn't get any specific results. I noticed a strobing effect last night when watching content in Standard picture mode. I was on a black screen with content paused and the TV kept on flashing the backlight in a regular pattern. I also noticed this during a scope scene in The Wall, also in Standard picture mode. It's like the TV can't decide whether to brighten the display or darken it. Switching to Movie mode makes the problem disappear. Any idea what is happening?

Last edited by dejanh; 08-28-2017 at 11:25 PM.
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post #28808 of 36529 Old 08-29-2017, 06:55 AM
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Hi, I've to connect my PS4 Pro with optical cable directly to the Logitech Z5500 receiver or via tv pass through (HDMI in, optical out) . Are there differences in quality?
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post #28809 of 36529 Old 08-29-2017, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Ryu Silveira View Post
Guys any reason why standard mode would look slightly better than movie mode? It's crazy and even Kevin finds it weird as well. He set movie mode for night time viewing and standard mode for day time viewing. Although for some reason, for instance I tested it out on Game of Thrones, Secret Life of Pets, & Finding Dory on Netflix with the exception of Game of Thrones which is HBO Now. When I switch between standard and movie mode, in standard mode the blacks/shadows get slightly darker and more natural as opposed to movie mode in which it tends too look slightly washed out?


I'm starting to think that 1180 did something to movie and standard mode. A few of us users have found that , at least in Game Mode or just while gaming, that in HDR games, there will be sharp gradients in the color change while in Game Mode. But if we set the input to PC, with it using Standard as it's picture mode, the gradients are gone, and it's just a smooth transition between colors in HDR. This was not so before 1180.

It also seems that Standard may have had a few things dialed back on it. Because , before 1180, when I tried the PC input for gaming, reds and pinks were a little overblown with the settings I used. But now, with the same settings, reds and pinks are normal looking, as if it was still on Movie Mode.

Though this doesn't seem to happen when watching HDR movies in Movie mode, on my xb1s. The picture is basically perfect.
It may lie on the PS4's end, as that's all I game on with the TV, and use the xb1s for movies. But even in Movie mode, on the PS4, I could see the gradients in the sky, where as in PC mode, it's perfect.

Would be awesome if we had someone with some tools to test this lol
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Last edited by Travis Sturdivant; 08-29-2017 at 08:02 AM.
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post #28810 of 36529 Old 08-29-2017, 09:38 AM
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Anybody have issues with their remote, where hitting the power button doesn't turn the TV on? Its weird, my cable remote does turn the TV on, and then when I switch back to the Samsung remote once the TV is on, all the other buttons function normally, so the batteries in the remote are obviously fine - it just won't power the TV on.
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post #28811 of 36529 Old 08-29-2017, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave4282 View Post
Anybody have issues with their remote, where hitting the power button doesn't turn the TV on? Its weird, my cable remote does turn the TV on, and then when I switch back to the Samsung remote once the TV is on, all the other buttons function normally, so the batteries in the remote are obviously fine - it just won't power the TV on.
Yes! This happens to me every couple months or so.

Your workaround is good. You can also hold the Samsung remote power button while pointing it at the TV for about five seconds and that will get the Tv's attention and turn it on.

Shouldn't have to do this so something's wrong....

Sent from my Samsung S8+ using Tapatalk
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post #28812 of 36529 Old 08-29-2017, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave4282 View Post
Anybody have issues with their remote, where hitting the power button doesn't turn the TV on? Its weird, my cable remote does turn the TV on, and then when I switch back to the Samsung remote once the TV is on, all the other buttons function normally, so the batteries in the remote are obviously fine - it just won't power the TV on.

Ya, mine does this every couple weeks. I hit the power button and nothing happens. I usually just get up and hit the power button on the TV to turn it on. The remote works just fine after that. Pulling the batteries usually works too, so it depends on how lazy I'm feeling lol.


Travis, that's interesting about 1180. I am still on 1169, so it would be interesting to have more people chime in. Or better yet someone with proper tools, as you mentioned.
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post #28813 of 36529 Old 08-29-2017, 10:53 AM
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I had that happen to me too.... pulling the battery seems to be the easiest temp solution.
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post #28814 of 36529 Old 08-29-2017, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rotarydude View Post
I had that happen to me too.... pulling the battery seems to be the easiest temp solution.

Damn it... How many times we got to post this lol... Stop pulling batteries. Any time the remote doesn't work, sans actual dead batteries or completely broken remote, just hold the power button down until the TV either turns off or back on.

Somehow the remote is unbinding from the TV. But by just holding the power button down for around 10 seconds or so, it will rebind it and allow for it to work, without the hassle of removing the cover and batteries.

Last edited by Travis Sturdivant; 08-29-2017 at 12:39 PM.
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Originally Posted by Lonewolf7002 View Post
Ya, mine does this every couple weeks. I hit the power button and nothing happens. I usually just get up and hit the power button on the TV to turn it on. The remote works just fine after that. Pulling the batteries usually works too, so it depends on how lazy I'm feeling lol.


Travis, that's interesting about 1180. I am still on 1169, so it would be interesting to have more people chime in. Or better yet someone with proper tools, as you mentioned.
I'm wanting to lean to it being the PS4's fault. Just because this issue doesn't show up on 4K HDR blurays that I play on the xb1s in movie mode. This has only been witnessed on a PS4 in Game/Movie mode, but fixed by switching the input to PC.
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post #28816 of 36529 Old 08-29-2017, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Travis Sturdivant View Post
I'm wanting to lean to it being the PS4's fault. Just because this issue doesn't show up on 4K HDR blurays that I play on the xb1s in movie mode. This has only been witnessed on a PS4 in Game/Movie mode, but fixed by switching the input to PC.
Interesting. I don't have a PS4 so can't test when I move up to 1180 or whatever the latest is now.

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post #28817 of 36529 Old 08-29-2017, 08:47 PM
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KS8000 and TrueHD, Atmos pass through

I believe the answer is no but can someone confirm that KS8000 is not capable of passing through Dolby Atmos soundtracks? Using Plex app if I play a video with TrueHD, my receiver still only picks up Dolby Digital. However if I play the same video through Nvidia Shield that is connected to reciever first, it picks up the TrueHD soundtrack. My reciever is Yamaha RX A-770 and it is connected to TV via HDMI/ARC. When I had Nvidia Shield connected to TV first, it also wasn't able to pass through DD+ from Netflix which is why it is connected to receiver instead.

Ideally I would want everything connected to TV since it makes switching between inputs easier but looks like that won't be an option as KS8000 doesn't seem to be able to pass through audio as it is. I already have HDMI audio set to bitstream.
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post #28818 of 36529 Old 08-29-2017, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Travis Sturdivant View Post
Damn it... How many times we got to post this lol... Stop pulling batteries. Any time the remote doesn't work, sans actual dead batteries or completely broken remote, just hold the power button down until the TV either turns off or back on.

Somehow the remote is unbinding from the TV. But by just holding the power button down for around 10 seconds or so, it will rebind it and allow for it to work, without the hassle of removing the cover and batteries.
I threw the PS remote the second week of ownership and got a proper Samsung remote. It works great, with many more features and flexibility than the garbage remote that came with this TV.

Cheers
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post #28819 of 36529 Old 08-29-2017, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SarhoshAmiral View Post
I believe the answer is no but can someone confirm that KS8000 is not capable of passing through Dolby Atmos soundtracks? Using Plex app if I play a video with TrueHD, my receiver still only picks up Dolby Digital. However if I play the same video through Nvidia Shield that is connected to reciever first, it picks up the TrueHD soundtrack. My reciever is Yamaha RX A-770 and it is connected to TV via HDMI/ARC. When I had Nvidia Shield connected to TV first, it also wasn't able to pass through DD+ from Netflix which is why it is connected to receiver instead.

Ideally I would want everything connected to TV since it makes switching between inputs easier but looks like that won't be an option as KS8000 doesn't seem to be able to pass through audio as it is. I already have HDMI audio set to bitstream.
You are correct, only standard DD and DTS bitstream are able to pass-through the TV; otherwise it would be PCM. It's highly recommend that everything goes to your AVR or Soundbar first than to the TV.
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post #28820 of 36529 Old 08-29-2017, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Ralarcon View Post
I threw the PS remote the second week of ownership and got a proper Samsung remote. It works great, with many more features and flexibility than the garbage remote that came with this TV.

Cheers
What remote did you get?
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post #28821 of 36529 Old 08-29-2017, 11:04 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis Sturdivant View Post
I'm starting to think that 1180 did something to movie and standard mode. A few of us users have found that , at least in Game Mode or just while gaming, that in HDR games, there will be sharp gradients in the color change while in Game Mode. But if we set the input to PC, with it using Standard as it's picture mode, the gradients are gone, and it's just a smooth transition between colors in HDR. This was not so before 1180.

It also seems that Standard may have had a few things dialed back on it. Because , before 1180, when I tried the PC input for gaming, reds and pinks were a little overblown with the settings I used. But now, with the same settings, reds and pinks are normal looking, as if it was still on Movie Mode.

Though this doesn't seem to happen when watching HDR movies in Movie mode, on my xb1s. The picture is basically perfect.
It may lie on the PS4's end, as that's all I game on with the TV, and use the xb1s for movies. But even in Movie mode, on the PS4, I could see the gradients in the sky, where as in PC mode, it's perfect.

Would be awesome if we had someone with some tools to test this lol
Bro this is great, I'm glad I'm not going crazy then...lmfao. See I only have an Xbox One S and I use it to watch my blu-rays and my 4K blu-rays with the occasional gaming here and there. Only game I have is Titanfall 2, which when turning game mode on looks great to me. I don't have any HDR games to try out what you're experiencing though.

My issue just lies with the damn standard and movie mode. I'm thinking about keeping it on standard mode and just watch my content in that mode since it doesn't make my blacks/shadows look washed out compared to movie mode. As for HDR content, I will copy all the settings from HDR tied to movie mode and just apply them to standard mode. I know I'll lose out on the 10-point scale but at this point, I see more difference in the washed out blacks than I do anything else. Everything else is perfect by what Kevin Miller did.

Although, my only gripe is I switched Warm 2 to Warm 1. I for the life of me cannot stand watching Warm 2. It just makes the image push slight orange. It's weird. Warm 1 makes my whites look white and makes the image look better; despite it not being reference.
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post #28822 of 36529 Old 08-30-2017, 09:51 AM
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I have an older receiver, Onkyo TX-NR515, that cannot handle 4k and would rather not purchase a new AVR. I recently purchased a Nvidia Shield which only has audio over HDMI so I am thinking of using ARC on my KS8000 to pass the audio to my receiver. I used to do this with an optical cable but found the TV would not passthrough various audio formats and constantly kept changing the audio format to PCM. When this happen I need to go into the audio settings and change it to receive surround. Sometimes the TV just wouldn't give me surround and I was forced to use PCM.

If I use ARC on the KS8000 will I also have the exact project I had with optical? Needing to constantly change the audio settings and possibly not get surround sound depending on format?
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post #28823 of 36529 Old 08-30-2017, 10:22 AM
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[QUOTE=dejanh;54714758]What remote did you get?[/QUOTE
I'm using an old Samsung TV remote , I have from an older model. Ill get you a serial #. However this one sold at Wallmart looks extremely close.

SAMSUNG AA5900666A



Cheers
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post #28824 of 36529 Old 08-30-2017, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SarhoshAmiral View Post
I believe the answer is no but can someone confirm that KS8000 is not capable of passing through Dolby Atmos soundtracks? Using Plex app if I play a video with TrueHD, my receiver still only picks up Dolby Digital. However if I play the same video through Nvidia Shield that is connected to reciever first, it picks up the TrueHD soundtrack. My reciever is Yamaha RX A-770 and it is connected to TV via HDMI/ARC. When I had Nvidia Shield connected to TV first, it also wasn't able to pass through DD+ from Netflix which is why it is connected to receiver instead.

Ideally I would want everything connected to TV since it makes switching between inputs easier but looks like that won't be an option as KS8000 doesn't seem to be able to pass through audio as it is. I already have HDMI audio set to bitstream.
ARC cannot pass anything more than PCM and 5.1 DD and DTS, being a substitute for SPDIF and digital optical.
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post #28825 of 36529 Old 08-30-2017, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by dejanh View Post
What remote did you get?
I was using the remote for my Samsung 40H6350 (bedroom TV) to control my 55KS8000.

Works perfectly.


Model number : BN59-01179A




.

Last edited by BruZZi; 08-30-2017 at 11:39 AM.
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post #28826 of 36529 Old 08-30-2017, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by BruZZi View Post
I was using the remote for my Samsung 40H6350 (bedroom TV) to control my 55KS8000.

Works perfectly.


Model number : BN59-01179A




.
That is it, that is the one I have.Thanks for the picture.

Cheers
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post #28827 of 36529 Old 08-30-2017, 02:41 PM
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Bro this is great, I'm glad I'm not going crazy then...lmfao. See I only have an Xbox One S and I use it to watch my blu-rays and my 4K blu-rays with the occasional gaming here and there. Only game I have is Titanfall 2, which when turning game mode on looks great to me. I don't have any HDR games to try out what you're experiencing though.

My issue just lies with the damn standard and movie mode. I'm thinking about keeping it on standard mode and just watch my content in that mode since it doesn't make my blacks/shadows look washed out compared to movie mode. As for HDR content, I will copy all the settings from HDR tied to movie mode and just apply them to standard mode. I know I'll lose out on the 10-point scale but at this point, I see more difference in the washed out blacks than I do anything else. Everything else is perfect by what Kevin Miller did.

Although, my only gripe is I switched Warm 2 to Warm 1. I for the life of me cannot stand watching Warm 2. It just makes the image push slight orange. It's weird. Warm 1 makes my whites look white and makes the image look better; despite it not being reference.

So you can't do the PC trick for the XB1S Bluray playback. Somehow, the TV knows , or the system tells it, that it is playing a Movie and it switches off of PC mode and goes back to normal Movie Mode. Nothing stops this from happening. You can have the XB1S set up as PC and play a video game in PC mode. But the second you pop in a Movie and open up the Bluray App, the TV switches out of PC mode and goes to Bluray or Movie mode basically.

But, I never had any issues with color banding or anything with the xb1s with HDR Blurays. Only on the PS4pro with HDR games.
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post #28828 of 36529 Old 08-30-2017, 10:47 PM
 
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http://imgur.com/a/UqPAH

Hey guys, so I decided to take a picture to show you guys what I'm talking about. The quality isn't great, it's taken from my iPhone 6s but it shows to an extent what I see. I know it makes it look like the blacks are crushing or it's a bit too dark but let me know what you guys think.

The first image is when it's in movie mode calibrated by Kevin Miller. Only thing that was changed was me switching Warm 2 to Warm 1.

The second image is when it's in standard mode calibrated by Kevin Miller. Again, only thing that was changed was me switching Warm 2 to Warm 1.

For some reason, movie mode makes the darks/shadows look slightly washed out when compared to standard mode.

Last edited by Ryu Silveira; 08-30-2017 at 10:53 PM.
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post #28829 of 36529 Old 08-31-2017, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Ryu Silveira View Post
http://imgur.com/a/UqPAH

Hey guys, so I decided to take a picture to show you guys what I'm talking about. The quality isn't great, it's taken from my iPhone 6s but it shows to an extent what I see. I know it makes it look like the blacks are crushing or it's a bit too dark but let me know what you guys think.

The first image is when it's in movie mode calibrated by Kevin Miller. Only thing that was changed was me switching Warm 2 to Warm 1.

The second image is when it's in standard mode calibrated by Kevin Miller. Again, only thing that was changed was me switching Warm 2 to Warm 1.

For some reason, movie mode makes the darks/shadows look slightly washed out when compared to standard mode.

Looks like Standard for you film viewing might be crushing the blacks slightly actually. That's just my opinion though off of your pictures. Don't trust it :P
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post #28830 of 36529 Old 08-31-2017, 08:08 AM
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Ryu, did you know that when you switch from the calibrated Warm 2 to Warm 1 that the display is essentially no longer calibrated? That is, unless Kevin Miller calibrated that color temp setting, all the gamma and grayscale corrections he made no longer apply. Changing the color temp setting changes the underlying color of gray, which affects the secondaries more so than the primaries. Since gamma is no longer calibrated, you could see some artifacts from the change such as lightened (or darkened) dark areas and/or blown out highlights, etc.

Edit: I just checked on our set. Although the numeric picture settings do not change when switching from our calibrated Warm 2 to Warm 1, viewing a stark black and white image when doing so shows that the white portions do appear brighter and the blacks darker. I'm going to get out my meter in a little while and do some measurements. I'll post the results when I'm done.
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Last edited by Rolls-Royce; 08-31-2017 at 08:36 AM.
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denon s740h , extra , hdmi input , KS8000/KS8500 , no picture , one connect fail , xbox one s

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