Official Samsung KS8000/KS8500 Owners Thread - Page 984 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #29491 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by LSpera View Post
Anyone else checking out the Thursday Night Football pregame on the Amazon app? It looks insanely sharp....
On CBS All Access, it looked insanely dull. It looked like 480i. Everything else on CBS All Access has looked pretty good so far. I was *forced* to subscribe due to Star Trek.

My current KS800 settings. PM:Movie, BL:13, B:45, C:85, S:0, C:40, T:G48/R52, DCV:Off, AMP:Off, SLED:Low, FM:Auto1, BL: Auto, DC:Off, CT:Warm1, Gam:0, CS:Auto
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post #29492 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jt323bd View Post
I still have not managed to connect my 65" KS8000 to my PC in any way capible of producing an acceptable HDR signal.

This is downright ridiculous as I've had a 1080ti for months now.

In PC mode, it even greys out dynamic contrast. Suggesting that even though my windows PC (creators update) is sending HDR signal ybcp422 10bit, its not recognizing it.

Why is it so damn hard to use this TV for HDR with a PC?

AND/OR why is it so damn hard to use a PC for HDR?

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
#DaGamePimp has written several excellent posts on this. Issues run from drivers being used to Windows' mishandling of HDR. Search his posts and you'll see what he's written.
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post #29493 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 10:35 AM
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I finally got a reply from 'samsung tech engineer' about the famous Smart LED 'off' backlight torch mode/flashing (when picture goes black -> backlight goes max)

Reply was that it is a KS series feature, not bug :-D they suggested to use Smart LED 'low' setting to fix this feature... how stupid is that... well, I wont let this issue go...
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post #29494 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jt323bd View Post
I still have not managed to connect my 65" KS8000 to my PC in any way capible of producing an acceptable HDR signal.

This is downright ridiculous as I've had a 1080ti for months now.

In PC mode, it even greys out dynamic contrast. Suggesting that even though my windows PC (creators update) is sending HDR signal ybcp422 10bit, its not recognizing it.
Yes, I agree that doesn't sound right.

We need to be careful to distinguish the input type, from the Picture Settings mode, as they are two completely different things.

When you do not set the input type to "PC", the following Picture Modes are available to you
  • Dynamic (HDR is not displayed)
  • Natural (HDR is not displayed)
  • Movie (auto-switches between HDR and SDR picture presets)
  • Standard (auto-switches between HDR and SDR picture presets)
  • Sport (HDR is not displayed)
  • Game (HDR is displayed, but the TV does not remember separate SDR and HDR presets)
  • HDR+ (auto-switches between HDR and SDR picture presets for HDMI inputs only)
  • Cal-Night (auto-switches between HDR and SDR picture presets)
  • Cal-Day (auto-switches between HDR and SDR picture presets)

When you do set the input type to "PC" and it is sending 4:4:4 Chroma, only the following Picture Modes are available to you, and, these are completely different presets where the settings are stored separately to non-PC input above.
  • Dynamic (HDR is not displayed)
  • Standard (auto-switches between HDR and SDR picture presets) (but Color Space locked to "Native" so unsuitable for HDR viewing)
  • Sport (but Color Space locked to "Native")

So there are two things that come out of this.
  1. To check whether the TV thinks it is connected to a PC, pull up the Picture Mode menu. If it only lists Dynamic and Standard, then the TV thinks it is connected to a PC.
  2. If you can confirm the TV doesn't think it's got a PC (ie all the modes above including Movie are available), which of the Picture Modes are you trying that you say "disables dynamic contrast"? Try Movie mode.

Also, what screen mode are you trying? HDR 422 10bit isn't enough information, it's only half of the four parameters . What is the frame rate, and what is the resolution.

HTH.

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post #29495 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by PukeStinkLikeRye View Post
I had this same issue after upgrading to the 1203 firmware... WiFi worked after the upgrade but shortly after wouldn't connect! I tried doing the soft reset of holding power button down on the remote but did not fix the issue. After reading more in this forum it was suggested to unplug the TV while on.. and hold down remote power button until the red light stopped flashing! Did not like the idea of pulling the plug on a device... (Please use at your own risk) but it did solve my problem! Reset the network and everything linked up as before the upgrade.
Mine links up but it takes much longer now.

After a full day of not using the TV, turning it on I would get the message that there is no Internet... after 2mins or more it will finally connect. No problems with my other LG C7P TV which connects to the same router SSID. This only started with 1203.
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post #29496 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 11:41 AM
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I don't know if this is an on going problem, but I just seem to notice this issue with the 1203 firmware update
It seems like after a good amount of the TV is being off, my HDMI4 automatically goes back to HDMI4 setting instead of keeping it on PC.
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post #29497 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Aizen View Post
I've bought this TV from 2 weeks ago, I'm really sorry to say I'm disappointed with the TV and especially is a SAMSUNG TV.

- The colors are dull, even when I increased the colors it becomes over saturated, and some colors start to pops up than the others.

- There is this greish like filter all over the screen,
I can reduce it only by setting the Blacl level to "Low", and by crushing the picture by setting Dynamic Contrast to "High".

- And why there is a "Mid" option?, in the color tone the standard is too blue and warm 1 is too yellow


I didn't imagine that actually by buying this TV I'm "downgrading" from my Samsung series 5 2010 TV
Make sure you turn off all the Eco Mode and Energy Saving modes in the TV settings. It tends to do exactly what you say, dim or dull the screen brightness and can introduce a so called "filter over the screen."

When these are turned off, your image colours and brightness will pop more.

Last edited by Hiredgoon; 09-29-2017 at 01:12 PM.
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post #29498 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by rotarydude View Post
I don't know if this is an on going problem, but I just seem to notice this issue with the 1203 firmware update
It seems like after a good amount of the TV is being off, my HDMI4 automatically goes back to HDMI4 setting instead of keeping it on PC.
Hdmi 4 has always acted flaky for me in regards to it keeping its label.
It has consistently asked me to "set up new device" every week or so since 116* firmeware and onwards.

When it triggers this to happen it also wipes any changes to that inputs source label.

If you ask Samsung why this happens that will just tell you it's "intended behavior"
Much like they do with all the other detection issues present on this set...

Last edited by rego00123; 09-29-2017 at 01:07 PM.
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post #29499 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 01:39 PM
 
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Ok so this just happened. Received an evaluation build of Windows 10 update today. The signal is from my PC's RX480 Raedon hdmi output straight to the TV.
444 10-bit all of a sudden!? I have the Samsung 850D 55" panel. Huh??
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post #29500 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ACEdubs View Post
Ok so this just happened. Received an evaluation build of Windows 10 update today. The signal is from my PC's RX480 Raedon hdmi output straight to the TV.
444 10-bit all of a sudden!? I have the Samsung 850D 55" panel. Huh??
It's a bug. All my PC are running Fast Ring right now... and it's been displaying 10bits at 4:4:4 once in awhile. I think yesterdays 16296 build it automatically set the display to 10bit 4:2:2 correctly after the update.

This happens on both my PC, one is on a LG C7P, the other on a KS8000. Both running Nvidia cards

Last edited by rotarydude; 09-29-2017 at 02:01 PM.
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post #29501 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 01:59 PM
 
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Ah wtf. Ok. ?
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post #29502 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 02:06 PM
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10bit 4:4:4 is perfectly fine, as long as the resolution/framerate is no higher than 4K30 I often watch 4k Blu-Rays in that mode
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post #29503 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 02:11 PM
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10bit 4:4:4 is perfectly fine, as long as the resolution/framerate is no higher than 4K30 I often watch 4k Blu-Rays in that mode
yeah true.. but on my NVidia Control Center it WAS defaulting to 10bit 4K at 60hz. But like I said, the last build 16296 seems to have fixed it.
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post #29504 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by UnfoldingSquid View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aizen View Post
I've bought this TV from 2 weeks ago, I'm really sorry to say I'm disappointed with the TV and especially is a SAMSUNG TV.

- The colors are dull, even when I increased the colors it becomes over saturated, and some colors start to pops up than the others.

- There is this greish like filter all over the screen,
I can reduce it only by setting the Blacl level to "Low", and by crushing the picture by setting Dynamic Contrast to "High".

- And why there is a "Mid" option?, in the color tone the standard is too blue and warm 1 is too yellow


I didn't imagine that actually by buying this TV I'm "downgrading" from my Samsung series 5 2010 TV
Can you post pictures? It sounds like you possibly got a defective unit, maybe some clouding going on or something like that.
Isn't this common issue in this TV or Edge lit TVs?

Anyway, I took two pictures with lights turned off
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post #29505 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Hiredgoon View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aizen View Post
I've bought this TV from 2 weeks ago, I'm really sorry to say I'm disappointed with the TV and especially is a SAMSUNG TV.

- The colors are dull, even when I increased the colors it becomes over saturated, and some colors start to pops up than the others.

- There is this greish like filter all over the screen,
I can reduce it only by setting the Blacl level to "Low", and by crushing the picture by setting Dynamic Contrast to "High".

- And why there is a "Mid" option?, in the color tone the standard is too blue and warm 1 is too yellow


I didn't imagine that actually by buying this TV I'm "downgrading" from my Samsung series 5 2010 TV
Make sure you turn off all the Eco Mode and Energy Saving modes in the TV settings. It tends to do exactly what you say, dim or dull the screen brightness and can introduce a so called "filter over the screen."

When these are turned off, your image colours and brightness will pop more.
They both turned off
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post #29506 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 02:58 PM
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that looks like your brightness is too high?
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post #29507 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rotarydude View Post
that looks like your brightness is too high?
Me?

The backlight is at 14, Brightness 45
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post #29508 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jogimus View Post
I finally got a reply from 'samsung tech engineer' about the famous Smart LED 'off' backlight torch mode/flashing (when picture goes black -> backlight goes max)

Reply was that it is a KS series feature, not bug :-D they suggested to use Smart LED 'low' setting to fix this feature... how stupid is that... well, I wont let this issue go...
Can i ask you where did you get that reply? I haven't installed the newest 1203 firmware, so i don't know if this issue is still present.
Some weeks ago i sent a pm to @Rudy1 describing this issue and he forwarded it to his contacts at Samsung, so i'm still hoping this will eventually be noticed and fixed. I gave up searching the service menu for some option to fix it and have set brightness to 46 ever since. You can tell the black level difference from the correct 45 setting, but at least the backlight doesn't flash anymore. Of course this raises another set of problems, especially when streaming Netflix. The elevated black levels make the compression artifacts a lot more noticeable.

I also found out that it isn't the 45 value per se that produces this flashing. I tried to trick the tv by decreasing my bluray player's brightness level, so that the tv with brightness 46 displayed the correct black levels. Unfortunately this still results in the backlight turning off and on when what is showing on the screen is completely black.

Yes, it sucks spending a good amount of money on a tv and not being able to appreciate it's full potential.
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post #29509 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Aizen View Post
Me?

The backlight is at 14, Brightness 45
With low lighting, many are using a backlight around 4.

A 14 backlight setting, on these TVs, is pretty bright. That will cause excessive blooming in low light environments and might wash-out colors.
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post #29510 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 04:29 PM
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Can i ask you where did you get that reply? I haven't installed the newest 1203 firmware, so i don't know if this issue is still present.
Some weeks ago i sent a pm to @Rudy1 describing this issue and he forwarded it to his contacts at Samsung, so i'm still hoping this will eventually be noticed and fixed. I gave up searching the service menu for some option to fix it and have set brightness to 46 ever since. You can tell the black level difference from the correct 45 setting, but at least the backlight doesn't flash anymore. Of course this raises another set of problems, especially when streaming Netflix. The elevated black levels make the compression artifacts a lot more noticeable.

I also found out that it isn't the 45 value per se that produces this flashing. I tried to trick the tv by decreasing my bluray player's brightness level, so that the tv with brightness 46 displayed the correct black levels. Unfortunately this still results in the backlight turning off and on when what is showing on the screen is completely black.

Yes, it sucks spending a good amount of money on a tv and not being able to appreciate it's full potential.
I'm sorry but I don't think they have figured out a way to correct the flashing behavior without negatively impacting other aspects of the TV's video performance. I know they were looking into it, but then the issues with HDR performance in GAME mode took center stage, and the entire South Korean engineering team was re-tasked to address that. They announced scheduled firmware updates to change the GAME mode HDR performance, but I was alerted by the team leader this morning that company execs there are now questioning whether they should approve these firmware updates or not. As I mentioned on another thread, I'm dealing with the aftermath of Hurricane Irma so I really don't have much time to spend on these matters. But I'll do my best to follow up on this and other issues as time permits.

Definition of "Stupid": Knowing the truth, seeing the truth, but still believing the lies.
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post #29511 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 04:46 PM
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As I mentioned on another thread, I'm dealing with the aftermath of Hurricane Irma so I really don't have much time to spend on these matters. But I'll do my best to follow up on this and other issues as time permits.
Sorry to hear about this, hope everything returns to normal asap for you and your family.
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post #29512 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by checker9 View Post
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Originally Posted by Aizen View Post
Me?

The backlight is at 14, Brightness 45
With low lighting, many are using a backlight around 4.

A 14 backlight setting, on these TVs, is pretty bright. That will cause excessive blooming in low light environments and might wash-out colors.
I understand what are you referring to, I always make sure to adjust it. Also never watch TV in low lightning environment.
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post #29513 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 05:10 PM
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NEED HELP:

somewhere around 10 days ago the tv just stopped connecting to the internet. i assume i have the most current or a fairly current version as of 10 days ago. the tv will not connect wirelessly when i put in the wifi password, which has never happened before, and its not the signal strength or anything because my ipad connects perfectly in the same room as the tv and i hadnt had this problem before.

i dont care except for needing to update the tv and to watch the very few hdr vids on youtube.

any ideas? i unplugged and replugged the router, that did nothing.
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post #29514 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by inopethflames View Post
NEED HELP:

somewhere around 10 days ago the tv just stopped connecting to the internet. i assume i have the most current or a fairly current version as of 10 days ago. the tv will not connect wirelessly when i put in the wifi password, which has never happened before, and its not the signal strength or anything because my ipad connects perfectly in the same room as the tv and i hadnt had this problem before.

i dont care except for needing to update the tv and to watch the very few hdr vids on youtube.

any ideas? i unplugged and replugged the router, that did nothing.
I would try doing a factory reset of the TV if you've tried everything else...
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post #29515 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by inopethflames View Post
NEED HELP:

somewhere around 10 days ago the tv just stopped connecting to the internet. i assume i have the most current or a fairly current version as of 10 days ago. the tv will not connect wirelessly when i put in the wifi password, which has never happened before, and its not the signal strength or anything because my ipad connects perfectly in the same room as the tv and i hadnt had this problem before.

i dont care except for needing to update the tv and to watch the very few hdr vids on youtube.

any ideas? i unplugged and replugged the router, that did nothing.
In searching for any help/ideas for the disconnects of source signals and internet I've been dealing with, I came across this on the Samsung forums

Re: TV Disconnects from Internet When Turned-Off

Press and hold the power button on the remote while the tv shuts down and restarts. Once the tv is on again, release the remote's power button. If it works for you as it did for me, after the tv is completely rebooted (maybe 30-60 seconds after the tv restarts) the internet connection will work again without re-entering the password. it won't fix your problem completely but at least you won't have to re-enter the password each time.
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post #29516 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Aizen View Post
Isn't this common issue in this TV or Edge lit TVs?

Anyway, I took two pictures with lights turned off
It is the nature of edge-lit TV. Lowering the backlight/brightness, and using a bias light (ambient light) will help.
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post #29517 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by psuturtle View Post
I searched quite a bit, but can't seem to find any info on my issue. So figured I would post it here.

I've got a UN60KS800D (costco model) that's been working fine for maybe a year. Back in May, I added the Vizio SB3651-E6 and connected it to HDMI4 (HDMI ARC) on the one connect box. Everything was working great for a while. Had some minor issues with the soundbar turning itself off, but nothing unmanageable.

Recently, the soundbar is no longer linking to the TV via HDMI ARC at all. The "receiver" option is no longer listed as an available audio source. If I replug the HDMI cable at the soundbar, the TV detects it, but fails to link it. I get a message telling me to switch sources. I've changed the HDMI ARC cable multiple times and no difference in the symptom.

I took the soundbar to work to try it on another HDMI ARC enabled TV, and it seemed like everything was working OK (though I didn't have time to fully test everything out). So I'm not convinced it's a problem with the soundbar. The optical connection works OK, but I'm not a fan of using it and purchased this soundbar specifically for the HDMI ARC function.

Has anybody else had issues where the HDMI ARC port seemingly just stopped working? Just wondering if it might be a firmware issue (I'm currently on FW 1203 from what I can tell) or a possibly a one connect box issue.
The HDMI ARC of this TV is flaky with some devices (like my Onkyo AVR). Not sure this will help you, but in my setup, ARC often does not start unless I turn on a device (mine is an Android box) connected to HDMI1. Once my Android has boot up, the TV will recognize there is a sound input to the TV, and it will enable ARC to my Onkyo AVR. Once ARC is active, I can switch to other sources like Live TV, YouTube, Amazon to continue have sound routed to my AVR. You can try to connect a device to HDMI1 and see if it does the same on your soundbar.
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post #29518 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by inopethflames View Post
NEED HELP:

somewhere around 10 days ago the tv just stopped connecting to the internet. i assume i have the most current or a fairly current version as of 10 days ago. the tv will not connect wirelessly when i put in the wifi password, which has never happened before, and its not the signal strength or anything because my ipad connects perfectly in the same room as the tv and i hadnt had this problem before.

i dont care except for needing to update the tv and to watch the very few hdr vids on youtube.

any ideas? i unplugged and replugged the router, that did nothing.
It has nothing to do with your router, it is the TV. Just pull the plug of the TV, and plug it back it, and your wifi will work.
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post #29519 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by blenky View Post
Anybody watched the new Star Trek on Netflix? Its advertised on Netflix as HDR. When I play it (on both my TV and my Samsung UHD Blu ray player) it is definitely HDR but only 1080P (Mbps maxes out at 5.53).

Never seen a standard HD show in HDR before.
I'm in a rural area with only a 10Mbps connection. Both the Amazon app and Netflix give me 1080p HDR.
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post #29520 of 36666 Old 09-29-2017, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Aizen View Post
Me?

The backlight is at 14, Brightness 45
The "local dimming" or smart LED can be pretty finicky on this display. Having a small icon on the screen in between zones can cause the display to bloom like that.

Cell phone camera, especially not using a flash will also make the image far worse than in person.

And as mentioned before you amy simply have a defective display.

I have had mine since April and had the screen recently replaced after the last service tech damaged it reattaching the back panel.

My new screen is as close to perfect as you can get and my last was equally as good. It really does come down to luck of the draw and since these are out of production the models being sold likely have been in stock for awhile.
Which can lead to mishandling and some of the issues you are seeing.



Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
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Last edited by Dr.Shankenstein; 09-29-2017 at 06:10 PM.
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denon s740h , extra , hdmi input , KS8000/KS8500 , no picture , one connect fail , xbox one s

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