Disney WOW and / or Spears & Munsil

NOTES: This is an entirely new workflow approach. Thanks to @thecool est and @shoman94 for their suggestions and expertise. Part of learning how to calibrate is knowing what settings to change depending on which calibration page you are working in during the process. There were times in the past where I was changing settings before they should be changed. It made the calibration process a bit of an ordeal as some things looked great and others - not so great. With my newfound knowledge, I finally got great color balance, a decent saturation sweep result and the color matching is excellent; which = color accuracy. Flesh tones are really great now. PQ is the bomb!

As part of the new workflow, I left ALZ ( Active LED Zones ) on through the entire process except for setting peak brightness ( backlight ). This approach took longer to do because I had to wait for the zones to respond and the settings numbers on the top of the screen to disappear; but the results are much better. Also, I used a 10% window with the pattern generator.

One thing you will notice is that color is upped to 56, brightness to 58, and contrast is lowered to 41. There is a combination of factors that went into the "why" I chose those settings; including the fact that the colors were all undersaturated at the 50 setting with the saturation sweep test. So I went back and turned up the color a bit and went from there. One of the benefits is that I didn't have to force things in the color tuner to get better color balance, luminance, saturation. I made relatively small adjustments in the color tuner. The 11 point settings are also pretty mellow except for 10% and 20% and taming things in the 60% to 70% range. Because of all that, these settings should look a least very good on most sets even accounting for variances.

CalMan screenshots attached. The color checker looks awesome. I'm really happy about that because in the past I hated that chart!

M70-D3 Calibration
FW: 3.2.8.3

Start with Calibrated

Basic Settings:
Backlight: 50
Brightness: 58
Contrast: 41
Color: 56
Sharpness: 2* ( *slight edge enhancement for low quality signal; i.e. 1080i/720p/cable/satellite )
Tint: 0
Color Temp: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED Zones: On
Reduce Judder: 1 - 2 ( helps with 3:2 motion issues without introducing SOE )
Reduce Motion Blur: 0
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: Off* ( Set this to Low for crappy signal quality; i.e. same reasons as above ) - Set to “Off” for 1080P/4K/Blu-ray, etc.
Game Low Latency: Off
Film Mode: Auto
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.2

Color Tuner:
Primary Color Enabled: Turn all to On ( default )
Hue: R: 2, G: -13, B: 2, C: 2, M: -2, Y: 5
Sat: R: -9, G: -5, B: -6, C: -2, M: -6, Y: 0
Brt: R: 0, G: 2, B: 8, C: -6, M: 8, Y: -2
Ofs: R: -1, G: 0, B: 3
Gain: R: 0, G: 9, B: -13

11 Point:
5%: No change - zeros
10%: R: -22, G: -22, B: -22
20%: R: -16, G: -10, B: -12
30%: R: -10, G: -7, B: -5
40%: R: -6, G: -7, B: -8
50%: R: -7, G: -4, B: -10
60%: R: -17, G: -13, B: -23
70%: R: -4, G: -12, B: -22
80%: R: -1, G: 0, B: 3
90%: R: 0, G: 0, B: -6
100%: R: 2, G: 0, B: 4

@sonoftumble

The color checker and saturations do look fine, but I'm not sure why would you drop contrast and up brightness so much. You pretty much killed the dynamic range of your display.

OK, so I'll just say it: I'm not sure why you take the time to do all this (incredibly awesome work, BTW) as it seems like almost every individual title and type of source needs it's own tweaking... I'm assuming this is specifically for a 4k Blu Ray player as that is what the calibration video runs off of? Well, at least 11 point should be applicable across any source/title but the rest can vary a lot it seems like. Also, is Tint a separate tested setting or is left there and you calibrate around it? I see other professional calibrations that sometimes show to use -3 and others that also remain at 0. I tried -3 for the heck of it after seeing it either Rtings or CNET calibration settings and it seemed to really help and you saw another one on here try it and agree... Again, thanks for all your work on this!

I agree. Makes me think that PC levels were being used and those were adjusted to Video levels.

I know it is a little odd. The two patterns I use for checking white and black levels looked best with those settings. Maybe I should have had ALZ off when I set those? With ALZ off, they normally look best with the default settings; i.e. 50 brightness and 50 contrast. Backlight setting too high? I can run it again with ALZ off. Any suggestions are welcome.

OK, so I'll just say it: I'm not sure why you take the time to do all this (incredibly awesome work, BTW) as it seems like almost every individual title and type of source needs it's own tweaking...

Disney WOW and / or Spears & Munsil

NOTES: This is an entirely new workflow approach. Thanks to @thecool est and @shoman94 for their suggestions and expertise. Part of learning how to calibrate is knowing what settings to change depending on which calibration page you are working in during the process. There were times in the past where I was changing settings before they should be changed. It made the calibration process a bit of an ordeal as some things looked great and others - not so great. With my newfound knowledge, I finally got great color balance, a decent saturation sweep result and the color matching is excellent; which = color accuracy. Flesh tones are really great now. PQ is the bomb!

As part of the new workflow, I left ALZ ( Active LED Zones ) on through the entire process except for setting peak brightness ( backlight ). This approach took longer to do because I had to wait for the zones to respond and the settings numbers on the top of the screen to disappear; but the results are much better. Also, I used a 10% window with the pattern generator.

One thing you will notice is that color is upped to 56, brightness to 58, and contrast is lowered to 41. There is a combination of factors that went into the "why" I chose those settings; including the fact that the colors were all undersaturated at the 50 setting with the saturation sweep test. So I went back and turned up the color a bit and went from there. One of the benefits is that I didn't have to force things in the color tuner to get better color balance, luminance, saturation. I made relatively small adjustments in the color tuner. The 11 point settings are also pretty mellow except for 10% and 20% and taming things in the 60% to 70% range. Because of all that, these settings should look a least very good on most sets even accounting for variances.

CalMan screenshots attached. The color checker looks awesome. I'm really happy about that because in the past I hated that chart!

M70-D3 Calibration
FW: 3.2.8.3

Start with Calibrated

Basic Settings:
Backlight: 50
Brightness: 58
Contrast: 41
Color: 56
Sharpness: 2* ( *slight edge enhancement for low quality signal; i.e. 1080i/720p/cable/satellite )
Tint: 0
Color Temp: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED Zones: On
Reduce Judder: 1 - 2 ( helps with 3:2 motion issues without introducing SOE )
Reduce Motion Blur: 0
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: Off* ( Set this to Low for crappy signal quality; i.e. same reasons as above ) - Set to “Off” for 1080P/4K/Blu-ray, etc.
Game Low Latency: Off
Film Mode: Auto
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.2

Color Tuner:
Primary Color Enabled: Turn all to On ( default )
Hue: R: 2, G: -13, B: 2, C: 2, M: -2, Y: 5
Sat: R: -9, G: -5, B: -6, C: -2, M: -6, Y: 0
Brt: R: 0, G: 2, B: 8, C: -6, M: 8, Y: -2
Ofs: R: -1, G: 0, B: 3
Gain: R: 0, G: 9, B: -13

11 Point:
5%: No change - zeros
10%: R: -22, G: -22, B: -22
20%: R: -16, G: -10, B: -12
30%: R: -10, G: -7, B: -5
40%: R: -6, G: -7, B: -8
50%: R: -7, G: -4, B: -10
60%: R: -17, G: -13, B: -23
70%: R: -4, G: -12, B: -22
80%: R: -1, G: 0, B: 3
90%: R: 0, G: 0, B: -6
100%: R: 2, G: 0, B: 4

Thanks. Gave these settings a shot. While better than regular NORMAL, still a bit too yellow for me and I think I still prefer "Computer" as a base color profile as a default (though I wish that was slightly warmer itself). Anyone have good color settings that improve on Computer (adding a bit more warmth).

OOOOPS! Set the Color Space to Auto or YYCbCr. I had it listed as RGB in the settings list which was from a previous aborted calibration. My BAD! Should be an instant improvement, and your blacks will be inky again. Also, you can change those without much impact on color. They are really just black level ( brightness ) and white level ( contrast ) adjustments.

I've made the edit in that post.

I don't really know what you mean by every title needs its own settings. It's really rare for me to start playing with settings when I watch TV, Shows or Movies. And when I watch something like The Expanses, which has this blueish tint, I know that it's not my TV\display, but it's just the way it was meant to look.

I have found that the settings I ENJOY can vary based on source and even per title... For example, the Netflix title Daredevil I have to use a contrast of 60-65 just to be able to even really see what's going on. If the director intends me not to be able to see anything, then screw them, I'm going to adjust the picture to a level I can make out the detail I need to see what's going on... That said, I do need to visit that specific title again on the latest firmware, and indeed the picture has seemed to become more consistent on it, but it does seem like the settings can also vary if I Cast it or play through the Shield, especially on previous firmware, I'll experiment more this weekend.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

Thanks. Gave these settings a shot. While better than regular NORMAL, still a bit too yellow for me and I think I still prefer "Computer" as a base color profile as a default (though I wish that was slightly warmer itself). Anyone have good color settings that improve on Computer (adding a bit more warmth).

My point was that things look like they do (mostly) due to director's intent (I'm pretty sure this was already discussed, so I won't reopen this discussion again).
And that is what we calibrate for. To watch the content how it was meant to be watched. People who don't care about that can do whatever they want, its their display.

I have found that the settings I ENJOY can vary based on source and even per title... For example, the Netflix title Daredevil I have to use a contrast of 60-65 just to be able to even really see what's going on. If the director intends me not to be able to see anything, then screw them, I'm going to adjust the picture to a level I can make out the detail I need to see what's going on... That said, I do need to visit that specific title again on the latest firmware, and indeed the picture has seemed to become more consistent on it, but it does seem like the settings can also vary if I Cast it or play through the Shield, especially on previous firmware, I'll experiment more this weekend.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

Thanks. Gave these settings a shot. While better than regular NORMAL, still a bit too yellow for me and I think I still prefer "Computer" as a base color profile as a default (though I wish that was slightly warmer itself). Anyone have good color settings that improve on Computer (adding a bit more warmth).

I doubt you'll find something like that, calibrators target white point D65 (6504K). I never heard about anyone calibrating to something else (unless D65 is simply unachievable on a display, in such a case they would go for the warmest it can get while keeping greyscale balanced and color saturations accurate)
I don't know what color temp Normal is, and it most likely varies from unit to unit, so there would be no reference to shoot for unless one just decided on a random number that sounded good to them.
One thing I can recommend you try is reduce green and blue Gain by a few points and see how it looks to you, it should become warmer.

As far as yellow goes, I think that perhaps you have become accustomed to watching your TV with a "cooler" temperature, i.e. the Computer PM. So, when you watch something using my settings, things look "warmer" than you are used to - maybe too warm for your taste. The "normal" temperature setting gets very close to 6500K, which is the temperature of our sun. One good way to judge that setting is to view content that has a lot of unprocessed outdoor shots. If the temperature/characteristics of the light in outdoor shots looks close to the actual outdoors, then you are looking at an accurate representation on your TV. Without a meter, this is all subjective, and personal preference is important.

If you really want to go crazy watch the first half of "The Aviator" It will make you think that the red LCD's stopped working altogether.

In the past week or so, I've been seeing noisy/corrupted video on Netflix when casting. At random times while watching -- anywhere from 5 minutes to 2.5 hours in -- I get noise blocks around parts of the frame that change from frame to frame, as well as rainbow flashes of color at random points in the scene. Sometimes, the picture goes black for a frame and then you see smearing as people move on screen. Once it starts, the problem doesn't go away on it's own, at least in the 30 seconds I've let it keep going. And, once it occurs, scrolling to earlier/later parts of the show, including parts that had displayed properly, doesn't fix the issue, and whatever show I'm watching continues to be garbled. However, disconnecting the display from the Netflix app and then re-connecting it fixes the problem.

It looks just like what happens if I download a corrupted video file and try to play it on a PC, or if I'm watching live TV but the signal quality is low. It's as though the metadata for the video gets screwed up and then isn't decoding properly.

Just purchased my new Vizio M65-D0 yesterday and love it! (lifelong vizio owner but this is my newest purchase). Quick question.... I know only one of hte HDMI ports provides optimum display capabilities and I'm just curious as to which it is. Logically you would think its HDMI-1 by default but after reading through the owner's manual I'm confused as it looks like it says HDMI-5 is technically the one capable of displaying the HDR quality.... can someone assist me? This isn't for plugging in a device such as my ps4 or anything... just the HDMI cable running from my verizon fios cable box into the back of the display.

Thanks,
Nick

Just purchased my new Vizio M65-D0 yesterday and love it! (lifelong vizio owner but this is my newest purchase). Quick question.... I know only one of hte HDMI ports provides optimum display capabilities and I'm just curious as to which it is. Logically you would think its HDMI-1 by default but after reading through the owner's manual I'm confused as it looks like it says HDMI-5 is technically the one capable of displaying the HDR quality.... can someone assist me? This isn't for plugging in a device such as my ps4 or anything... just the HDMI cable running from my verizon fios cable box into the back of the display.

Thanks,
Nick

Sorry for the additional post! New member here and not a "technical" guy when it comes to TVs/Home theather displays. Because I purchased my new Vizio M65-d0 yesterday... should I also be contacting my local cable company (verizon Fios) to make sure I have the latest / up-to-date box in terms of providing the best display / picture quality on my home theater display? Does that make a difference? Could not having the newest cable box from Verizon affect my image / picture quality? Just wondering and sorry if this is a silly question. Hoping to learn a lot by joining and reading through this forum (although 234 pages can be intimidating to read through and certainly overwhelming).

Also, trying to adjust my display / picture settings to provide me with the best picture quality. I like a brighter more vibrate picture and have the TV set up in my livingroom (which is a decently naturally light room). I default to the "vivid" display typically from years past with my older Vizio..

Can anyone recommend the best display / settings or point me to a good article or post to read about how to generate the best picture quality? Can just be overwhelming looking at all the settings when you aren't technical like me. I've read the the owner's manual but am still unsure if I want things like "Reduce Judder" turned all the way up or "Reduce Motion Blur". Also, do I want "Clear Action" turned on? I've read what these things are in the owner's manual but am still unsure if I want them on or off in my settings..

Again sorry for the long post just want to learn as much as I can and get the most out of my wonderful product!

Nick

HDMI-1 is the only port that is "full bandwidth" HDMI 2.0a, meaning you can transmit 4k video at 4:4:4 8-bit. This is really only important if you want HDR out of your XBox One S or you are plugging in a PC and want clear text. HDMI-1 is the "best" port in terms of picture quality.

HDMI-1 is also the only port that supports ARC for returning sound to a soundbar or an AVR.

HDMI-5 has lower input lag, which is important for gaming.

If you're just plugging in a FIOS box, it doesn't really matter which port you plug into, but I'd go with HDMI-1.



Don't know about how firmware updates will affect the FIOS box, but asking probably wouldn't hurt?

If you want a more vibrant? picture, turn up the "color" setting for more saturated colors, or turn up the "backlight" setting for a brighter picture. I would start from the "Calibrated" preset, and tune from there. No need to touch "brightness" or "contrast," but you can fiddle with "color," "backlight," and "gamma," and see what suits you. What each of them do should be fairly obvious from the changes in the picture.

You probably don't need to turn on "Clear Action." It's a feature that causes rapid flickering to reduce blur, but in exchange causes the image to be dimmer. "Reduce Judder" and "Reduce Motion Blur" insert frames between the ones on the input in order to make the video look smoother. This introduces the "Soap Opera Effect," which some people enjoy, and some people can't stand. I'd leave everything at 0, then try bumping them up and see if you like the effect. If you do, keep it on; if you don't, leave it off.

Thanks for all the great advice guys! Reasons and kind replies like both of yours are the reason why I joined the forum community like this. I look forward to continue reading people's post and learning as much as I can.

So to confirm... my best bet is plugging the HDMI cord from my Fios cable box into the HDMI port highlighted in green labeled (ARC). That is technically the HDMI "1" correct?

Wait, just to clarify, as also an auto enthusiast who has done his homework on researching headlights, 5000k is normal, white, sunlight, while 6500k is pretty blue... I just got LED headlights for my car and they naturally vary from 6000-6500k with some as low as 5500k... I bought some that claimed to be 6000k and they were clearly 6500k and I returned them. Next ones I got had that just hint of blue, so they are more like actual 6000k... For another example, plant grow lights are 5000k, which mimics the suns color temp.

Correct me if I am wrong. But if you set the color space to YYCbCr, won't that negate 4K with HDR when playing games/movies? RGB is required to get HDR with a 4K display. Or does this not affect it? YYCbCr will force a 2K display while in HDR. At least on my PS4 Pro it does.

Just purchased my new Vizio M65-D0 yesterday and love it! (lifelong vizio owner but this is my newest purchase). Quick question.... I know only one of hte HDMI ports provides optimum display capabilities and I'm just curious as to which it is. Logically you would think its HDMI-1 by default but after reading through the owner's manual I'm confused as it looks like it says HDMI-5 is technically the one capable of displaying the HDR quality.... can someone assist me? This isn't for plugging in a device such as my ps4 or anything... just the HDMI cable running from my verizon fios cable box into the back of the display.

Thanks,
Nick

Sorry for the additional post! New member here and not a "technical" guy when it comes to TVs/Home theather displays. Because I purchased my new Vizio M65-d0 yesterday... should I also be contacting my local cable company (verizon Fios) to make sure I have the latest / up-to-date box in terms of providing the best display / picture quality on my home theater display? Does that make a difference? Could not having the newest cable box from Verizon affect my image / picture quality? Just wondering and sorry if this is a silly question. Hoping to learn a lot by joining and reading through this forum (although 234 pages can be intimidating to read through and certainly overwhelming).

Also, trying to adjust my display / picture settings to provide me with the best picture quality. I like a brighter more vibrate picture and have the TV set up in my livingroom (which is a decently naturally light room). I default to the "vivid" display typically from years past with my older Vizio..

Can anyone recommend the best display / settings or point me to a good article or post to read about how to generate the best picture quality? Can just be overwhelming looking at all the settings when you aren't technical like me. I've read the the owner's manual but am still unsure if I want things like "Reduce Judder" turned all the way up or "Reduce Motion Blur". Also, do I want "Clear Action" turned on? I've read what these things are in the owner's manual but am still unsure if I want them on or off in my settings..

Again sorry for the long post just want to learn as much as I can and get the most out of my wonderful product!

Nick