@sonoftumble what made you adjust the gain of red and blue? Just curious.


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The offset and gain settings are the same thing as the 30% / 80%. It is one of the first things to get adjusted in the calibration workflow. The Calman software on my PC displays special bar charts that interact with my Spectracal C6 meter, and my Murideo SIX G pattern generator. The goal is to get the red, green and blue bars to put out the same luminance level at 30% and 80%. In order for that to happen, you have to adjust both the offset ( 30% ) and gain ( 80% ) settings until the differences are negligible. After I finished those adjustments, the rest of the workflow and readings were incredibly accurate with less than 3% errors. I didn't need to adjust anything else. I'm sure you are aware, but just in case, the gain adjustment is not the same as the brightness adjustment.

Yeah I noticed that you knocked the brightness numbers out of there and figured you may have done that to compensate. But cool beans i plugged them in, may do a factory reset tomorrow then put them back in just b/c it would make me feel comfortable. Thanks for the reply


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I'm still figuring this one out too, I have spectrum...picture isn't that fantastic.

You might be surprised to hear this, but I run on one PM for all content. Some of the broadcast channels look crummy, and I just live with it - and also try to minimize how much time I spend watching the rubbish. I have found that the noise reduction options don't seem to do much, so I leave them off.

Sonoftumble Calibration REV 5 SDR + HDR-10
2016 M70-D3
FW 3.2.13.3

NOTES: With REV. 4.5, I encountered block noise when viewing content that had certain shades of yellow and green. The fix was to set the red and green brightness levels in the color tuner to zero. That of course changed certain elements of the calibration, so I decided to run it again leaving the red and green brightness at zero while making more adjustments to the hue and saturation levels to get things to behave. The results were excellent with both the saturation sweeps and color checker pages looking awesome.

Also, Rev. 4.5 was based on FW 3.2.8.3, so just in case there were differences in color behavior with 3.2.13.3, I thought running a new scan was in order.

Finally, I ran an HDR-10 calibration. The amazing thing about that process was just how close my TV tracked with color accuracy. All I needed to do was adjust the 30% and 80% and NOTHING ELSE. Pretty cool.

When you play HDR-10 content, the TV loads a CMS table with zeroed out Color Tuner and 11 point adjustments. Simply play HDR-10 content, and while it’s playing, input the settings below. The TV will save those settings and automatically load them whenever you play HDR-10 content. When you start playing SDR content it will automatically load that table with the SDR settings.

If you don’t have an external HDR-10 playback device, you can cast the second listing of Meridian on Netflix which is HDR-10. It’s a short film, but you should be able to input the very few setting in the 15 minutes that the program plays.

Since some of you will ask, when I tried to do a Dolby Vision calibration, the initial luminance and color readings were so far off, >25% errors - that I need to do a little more research on how to properly setup Calman before trying again.

Enjoy!

Start with Calibrated Picture Mode

Basic Settings:
Backlight: 40
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 50
Sharpness: 2* ( *slight edge enhancement for low quality signal; i.e. 1080i/720p/cable/satellite )
Tint: 0
Color Temp: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED Zones: On
Reduce Judder: 1 - 2 ( helps with 3:2 motion issues without introducing SOE )
Reduce Motion Blur: 0
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: Off* ( Set this to Low for crappy signal quality; i.e. same reasons as above ) - Set to “Off” for 1080P/4K/Blu-ray, etc.
Game Low Latency: Off
Pure Cinema = On
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.1

Color Tuner
Primary Color Enabled: Turn all to On ( default )
Hue: R: 0, G: -4, B: 0, C: 0, M: -5, Y: 0
Sat: R: -5, G: -1, B: -10, C: -3, M: -5, Y: 5
Brt: R: 0, G: 0, B: -12, C: -6, M: -7, Y: -1
Ofs: R: 2, G: 3, B: 5
Gain: R: 16, G: 18, B: -13

11 Point:
5%: to 50%: No change - zeros
60%: R: -4, G: -10, B: -10
70% - No change - zeros
80% - No change - zeros
90% R: 0, G: 0, B: 5
100%: R: 20, G: -15, B: 15

HDR-10
Color Tuner:
Offset: R: -6, G: 1, B: 0
Gain: R: 7, G: 2, B: -17

Just to expand on @Silencer271 previous post above...

I was casting watchESPN app last night, watching the Astros as I was grilling outside, on my little d24 vizio via Chromecast dongle. Instead of going through the switching of inputs, turning on direcTV etc (1st world problems) my M55-D0 (FW is up to date with .13) was already on and on the Cast input so I was just going to switch the Cast on the app from "Kitchen" to "Living Room"...well the M55 does NOT show up on the cast options from the watchESPN app. I don't know if this is something on Vizio's end or possibly direcTV (as I was signed in with my direcTV login and the above problem is direcTV also). Could be something to dive into - maybe if someone is home and can see if their M series can be found as a cast option on other devices (I used both my iPhone and watchESPN app on Vizio Tablet - but all day yesterday I had been casting Netflix from Vizio Tablet to TV) with all cast enabled apps, strictly Vizio not showing up on these apps or..............

Sonoftumble Calibration REV 5 SDR + HDR-10
2016 M70-D3
FW 3.2.13.3

NOTES: With REV. 4.5, I encountered block noise when viewing content that had certain shades of yellow and green. The fix was to set the red and green brightness levels in the color tuner to zero. That of course changed certain elements of the calibration, so I decided to run it again leaving the red and green brightness at zero while making more adjustments to the hue and saturation levels to get things to behave. The results were excellent with both the saturation sweeps and color checker pages looking awesome.

Also, Rev. 4.5 was based on FW 3.2.8.3, so just in case there were differences in color behavior with 3.2.13.3, I thought running a new scan was in order.

Finally, I ran an HDR-10 calibration. The amazing thing about that process was just how close my TV tracked with color accuracy. All I needed to do was adjust the 30% and 80% and NOTHING ELSE. Pretty cool.

When you play HDR-10 content, the TV loads a CMS table with zeroed out Color Tuner and 11 point adjustments. Simply play HDR-10 content, and while it’s playing, input the settings below. The TV will save those settings and automatically load them whenever you play HDR-10 content. When you start playing SDR content it will automatically load that table with the SDR settings.

If you don’t have an external HDR-10 playback device, you can cast the second listing of Meridian on Netflix which is HDR-10. It’s a short film, but you should be able to input the very few setting in the 15 minutes that the program plays.

Since some of you will ask, when I tried to do a Dolby Vision calibration, the initial luminance and color readings were so far off, >25% errors - that I need to do a little more research on how to properly setup Calman before trying again.

Enjoy!

Start with Calibrated Picture Mode

Basic Settings:
Backlight: 40
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 50
Color: 50
Sharpness: 2* ( *slight edge enhancement for low quality signal; i.e. 1080i/720p/cable/satellite )
Tint: 0
Color Temp: Normal
Black Detail: Off
Active LED Zones: On
Reduce Judder: 1 - 2 ( helps with 3:2 motion issues without introducing SOE )
Reduce Motion Blur: 0
Clear Action: Off
Reduce Signal Noise: Off* ( Set this to Low for crappy signal quality; i.e. same reasons as above ) - Set to “Off” for 1080P/4K/Blu-ray, etc.
Game Low Latency: Off
Pure Cinema = On
Color Space: Auto
Gamma: 2.1

Color Tuner
Primary Color Enabled: Turn all to On ( default )
Hue: R: 0, G: -4, B: 0, C: 0, M: -5, Y: 0
Sat: R: -5, G: -1, B: -10, C: -3, M: -5, Y: 5
Brt: R: 0, G: 0, B: -12, C: -6, M: -7, Y: -1
Ofs: R: 2, G: 3, B: 5
Gain: R: 16, G: 18, B: -13

11 Point:
5%: to 50%: No change - zeros
60%: R: -4, G: -10, B: -10
70% - No change - zeros
80% - No change - zeros
90% R: 0, G: 0, B: 5
100%: R: 20, G: -15, B: 15

HDR-10
Color Tuner:
Offset: R: -6, G: 1, B: 0
Gain: R: 7, G: 2, B: -17

Download the ESPN app, not the WatchESPN app to cast to the Vizio TV. Not sure why but this works. There is a "Watch" tab in the app that has all the same streams.



Figured this out while I was watching the Cavs.

Excellent, im going to try this evening and will post the results, already loving the decision i made to keep M60-D1 in place of LG 60UH7700, its far better than LG PQ and 500$ less, looks like wise decision
thanks to this forum and members for helping pople like us

@sonoftumble for your HDR 11 point settings do we use the SDR numbers? I see the HDR-10 Color Tuner settings but you mentioned you only had to change the 30% & 80% but I dont see them listed?

I'm torn between the 55" M (2016) and Vizio 50" P (2016). I really and I mean really want 55". 60" is too big based on my experience and 50" is just a little too small.

How much better are the blacks levels on the Vizio P vs the M. I bought a 50" Vizio 4k D series Led months ago but I ended up returning it not only because it had a defect but because I was unhappy with the black levels. Local dimming dimmed the picture too much and even then the black levels weren't on par with what I'm used to.

Will the M's be that much better? It already improved with motion response time which was already good on the D series

Im also hearing that this year's D series have weaker PQ than last.

Sure, thus years 2017 M provides excellent contrast on par with last year's P but unfortunately it has 40ms of input lag...I'm looking for around 16ms.

I'm torn between the 55" M (2016) and Vizio 50" P (2016). I really and I mean really want 55". 60" is too big based on my experience and 50" is just a little too small.

How much better are the blacks levels on the Vizio P vs the M. I bought a 50" Vizio 4k D series Led months ago but I ended up returning it not only because it had a defect but because I was unhappy with the black levels. Local dimming dimmed the picture too much and even then the black levels weren't on par with what I'm used to.

Will the M's be that much better? It already improved with motion response time which was already good on the D series

Im also hearing that this year's D series have weaker PQ than last.

Sure, thus years 2017 M provides excellent contrast on par with last year's P but unfortunately it has 40ms of input lag...I'm looking for around 16ms.

The P is the way to go with all of your requirements except for screen size. If the 60" is available I would probably try to make that work. To get the low lag port on the M, you need to start with the 65 incher.

Or maybe you might want to go with a 120" R?

FYI - the 2016 55" M Series is also lacking the HDMI-5 low lag port.

Unfortunately I can't afford the 60" it's completely out of my price range. I planned on picking up the 50" P once it goes on sale again to about $999 CAD at Costco. I could always just sit a little closer to get that bigger TV effect I guess to compensate. 😜

Going by Rtings review of the M 2016 series, the difference in contrast between it and the 4K D 2016 series seems small in comparison to the bigger jump you get with the P. Plus the P has 10 bit color and a much brighter picture.

What is your stance on this year's Samsung MU6300? According
To Rtings it's contrast is excellent and on par with the P, it's very bright, it's a 10 bit panel and supports HDR with Low input lag unlike the P BUT the deal breaker is that it's motion response time is 18ms.....side that with the Ps 10.2ms and I'm sure the Sammy will look noticeably worse in motion.

The P still stands out as the MUCH better overall TV. You'll just have to sit closer. The Sammy is missing a few critical features which translate to better PQ - especially when you want to settle down for a movie when not gaming: 1) No local dimming, 2) No Wide Color Gamut. That makes the 10bit panel basically useless, and HDR is not going to look very good for the same reasons.

The P still stands out as the MUCH better overall TV. You'll just have to sit closer. The Sammy is missing a few critical features which translate to better PQ - especially when you want to settle down for a movie when not gaming: 1) No local dimming, 2) No Wide Color Gamut. That makes the 10bit panel basically useless, and HDR is not going to look very good for the same reasons.

^^^this.

HDR on the P increases input lag to about 40ms when gaming which is pretty lousy, I don't plan on using HDR or 4k until they both become standard whenever the PS5 releases.

I just need deep plasma blacks, a bright picture, excellent motion handling, great color and pow input lag and the P seems to offer that in spades. I'm assuming the blacks still look excellent and very deep without fald activated?

HDR on the P increases input lag to about 40ms when gaming which is pretty lousy, I don't plan on using HDR or 4k until they both become standard whenever the PS5 releases.

I just need deep plasma blacks, a bright picture, excellent motion handling, great color and pow input lag and the P seems to offer that in spades. I'm assuming the blacks still look excellent and very deep without fald activated?

The P is still the much better TV. It provides champaign on a beer budget.

As Rtings said about the 2016 P: "Great gaming TV, with low input lag and little motion blur. Excellent native contrast ratio. The blacks are very deep, even when local dimming is off."

And you will have a TV that can handle HDR with WCG when you upgrade to a future gaming console.

IMAO

Lol except when using HDR on the P it boosts up the input lag from 16ms to 43ms. No thanks lol but whatever, I'll just sell it and upgrade whenever the PS5 hits. Could be late 2018 or 2019 for all we know 😈 as of now for my current needs it's going to be ace. Minus that bloody silver bezel. Lol

Lol except when using HDR on the P it boosts up the input lag from 16ms to 43ms. No thanks lol but whatever, I'll just sell it and upgrade whenever the PS5 hits. Could be late 2018 or 2019 for all we know 😈 as of now for my current needs it's going to be ace. Minus that bloody silver bezel. Lol

My settings may not look that great on your TV because the M60 is an IPS type of LCD panel. My M70 and the other M TV's use VPA type panels. There are enough differences between the two panel designs that you might not like how things look. It's worth a try, but just wanted you to be aware.