Official 2016 Vizio M-Series Owner's Thread - Page 290 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #8671 of 10246 Old 07-24-2017, 02:20 PM
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Just to verify, do you have the digital audio output on the TV set to bitstream?
Yes, I tried Auto, Bitstream, all of the settings. The interesting thing is it displays the incoming DTS as "Stereo" when I hit the info button, almost like it isn't even detecting it as DTS.

Wouldn't really be an issue, except a lot of my Blu-rays only have DTS, with no option for DD (in english at least).
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post #8672 of 10246 Old 07-24-2017, 02:39 PM
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Yes, I tried Auto, Bitstream, all of the settings. The interesting thing is it displays the incoming DTS as "Stereo" when I hit the info button, almost like it isn't even detecting it as DTS.

Wouldn't really be an issue, except a lot of my Blu-rays only have DTS, with no option for DD (in english at least).
There's a couple of possibilities going on.

1) The TV says "stereo" but it's really passing through a DTS signal. ( This would be a restriction imposed on Vizio by Dolby. Keep in mind that Dolby and Vizio are pretty tight and Dolby has certain compliance things that restrict Vizio from properly labeling competing audio codecs. )
2) The TV no longer recognizes DTS. ( for the same reasons already mentioned )
3) I think it used to say DTS but if you're running beta FW, it might be a bug that they are aware of.
4) ARC issues - also a bug.

I use an AVR which handles all the latest codecs. I'm getting ATMOS on some of my Blu-rays.

EDIT: For certain, the digital audio out setting should be "bitstream" and nothing else. Leave it on bitstream all the time.
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post #8673 of 10246 Old 07-24-2017, 02:47 PM
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There's a couple of possibilities going on.

1) The TV says "stereo" but it's really passing through a DTS signal. ( This would be a restriction imposed on Vizio by Dolby. Keep in mind that Dolby and Vizio are pretty tight and Dolby has certain compliance things that restrict Vizio from properly labeling competing audio codecs. )
2) The TV no longer recognizes DTS. ( for the same reasons already mentioned )
3) I think it used to say DTS but if you're running beta FW, it might be a bug that they are aware of.
4) ARC issues - also a bug.

I use an AVR which handles all the latest codecs. I'm getting ATMOS on some of my Blu-rays.
Interesting... I'll try bitstream again just to be sure it's not just displaying as stereo on the TV but passing through as DTS. If that doesn't work, hopefully it will be fixed in a newer firmware. Shouldn't be an ARC issue, as I'm not using ARC.
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post #8674 of 10246 Old 07-24-2017, 02:51 PM
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Interesting... I'll try bitstream again just to be sure it's not just displaying as stereo on the TV but passing through as DTS. If that doesn't work, hopefully it will be fixed in a newer firmware. Shouldn't be an ARC issue, as I'm not using ARC.
What are you using for listening to DTS, DD, etc.? Anyway you could do a direct digital audio from the Blu-ray player to the ? If you're not using ARC, then that's definitely not the problem.
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post #8675 of 10246 Old 07-24-2017, 03:17 PM
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What are you using for listening to DTS, DD, etc.? Anyway you could do a direct digital audio from the Blu-ray player to the ? If you're not using ARC, then that's definitely not the problem.
I'm using an older Onkyo receiver. I have it set up to run optical directly from my BD player to the receiver in the meantime, which works. Was just hoping to get it working as passthrough from the TV as that way I don't have to change inputs on the receiver when I go from watching Tivo (which is passing DD through the TV) to Blu-ray/DVD.
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post #8676 of 10246 Old 07-24-2017, 06:17 PM
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I'm using an older Onkyo receiver. I have it set up to run optical directly from my BD player to the receiver in the meantime, which works. Was just hoping to get it working as passthrough from the TV as that way I don't have to change inputs on the receiver when I go from watching Tivo (which is passing DD through the TV) to Blu-ray/DVD.
I just found this post in this thread from a year ago . . . . . https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lc...-thread-9.html

Basically it says: "Unlike HDMI, TOSLINK does not have the bandwidth to carry the lossless versions of Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD Master Audio and LPCM."

So I think you either need to get a new AVR with 4K/HDR passthrough so that you could run all your HDMI sources through the AVR and then to the TV - basically use it as an input switcher, or keep your current setup the same. I don't think you're ever going to see DTS coming out of the TV's optical feed.
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post #8677 of 10246 Old 07-24-2017, 06:53 PM
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You are absolutely correct. It's leading edge stuff with many elements still in flux in terms of standards and future directions. By the time we get this all figured out, 8K will be hitting the market! The only thing that has been set in concrete are EDID's. Everything else is subject to change. There are HDR formats on the drawing board, or in testing that may obsolete the two major formats we have today. Our TV's will probably not support them either. Won't that be special!!
I think I detect a hint of sarcasm but i love my TV (2016 over 2015 which i mover to MBR)-am getting older but I've never learned to cast from dinky vizio tablet. i hear there is a fix coming for that. One thing about Directv, cable and most apps is they are incredibly simple to watch.

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post #8678 of 10246 Old 07-24-2017, 06:54 PM
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I'm using an older Onkyo receiver. I have it set up to run optical directly from my BD player to the receiver in the meantime, which works. Was just hoping to get it working as passthrough from the TV as that way I don't have to change inputs on the receiver when I go from watching Tivo (which is passing DD through the TV) to Blu-ray/DVD.
You might want to read over this thread as well:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-net...l#post42675090
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Display: Vizio M65-D0 4K/HDR
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post #8679 of 10246 Old 07-24-2017, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by sonoftumble View Post
There's a couple of possibilities going on.

1) The TV says "stereo" but it's really passing through a DTS signal. ( This would be a restriction imposed on Vizio by Dolby. Keep in mind that Dolby and Vizio are pretty tight and Dolby has certain compliance things that restrict Vizio from properly labeling competing audio codecs. )
2) The TV no longer recognizes DTS. ( for the same reasons already mentioned )
3) I think it used to say DTS but if you're running beta FW, it might be a bug that they are aware of.
4) ARC issues - also a bug.

I use an AVR which handles all the latest codecs. I'm getting ATMOS on some of my Blu-rays.

EDIT: For certain, the digital audio out setting should be "bitstream" and nothing else. Leave it on bitstream all the time.
Even for straight connections (from HR54 to HDMI port 1)?

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post #8680 of 10246 Old 07-24-2017, 07:19 PM
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I think I detect a hint of sarcasm but i love my TV (2016 over 2015 which i mover to MBR)-am getting older but I've never learned to cast from dinky vizio tablet. i hear there is a fix coming for that. One thing about Directv, cable and most apps is they are incredibly simple to watch.
No hidden or slight sarcasm directed towards you. I was lamenting more than anything about 8K getting here around the time the HDR / 4K thing is fully netted out and simple. Yes the new Smartcast interface is in the final stages of beta testing. No tablet required. Vizio will supply an updated IR remote for free when the FW is finally allowed into the wild.

See attached pic.
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post #8681 of 10246 Old 07-24-2017, 07:22 PM
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Even for straight connections (from HR54 to HDMI port 1)?
Yes. It won't hurt anything. Leaving it set to bitstream simply means that the TV will not intervene and try to interpret the audio codec. Leave that up to the AV receiver to figure out.
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post #8682 of 10246 Old 07-25-2017, 06:50 AM
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Here's some prep things to do to make sure that your Blu-ray HDR experience will be a great one . . . . and a couple of answers to your questions.

NOTE: Great news! We have almost matching equipment, so there will be no guessing here. The only difference is that I have the M70-D3. They are pretty much the same TV except for the panel size.

1) Make sure that both the Pioneer and the Samsung have the latest greatest firmware updates available. If both are connected to your home network, and therefore the internet, you can update over the internet instead of using a USB drive. The Samsung is pretty good about keeping itself up to date automatically, but you have to tell the Pioneer to do it, or it won't. Let me know if you need guidance on running an update on the Pioneer and I will type something out. When the VSX-90 first came out, it did not support HDR passthrough. There have been around 4 firmware updates since it first shipped to the stores.

2) Make sure that you have a UHD/HDR Blu-ray movie. Not sure what kind of movies you like, but there are more and more titles coming out every week. "Life of Pi" is a fantastic reference example of UHD/HDR at its best.

3) HDR ( High Dynamic Range ) is special instruction coding for the TV that is contained in the signals of UHD Blu-rays or streaming services such as Netflix. These signals will put the TV into a specific HDR mode depending on the signal type. UHD/HDR Blu-rays played on the K8500 will playback HDR-10 signals. Some Netflix titles will playback Dolby Vision signals. The TV will automatically detect and switch to the appropriate mode. Regular or non-HDR signals are known as SDR. ( Standard Dynamic Range ). That includes HD Blu-rays, AppleTV, cable/satellite, etc.

4) Use the "Calibrated" picture mode on your TV and set the backlight to 40. Later, once you get things up and running, you might want to consider using my calibration settings which were done with professional calibration gear. Most of the members who have tried my settings love the picture quality - especially those with 65" and 70" panels.

5) Make sure that the Samsung is plugged into HDMI ports 1-3 on the Pioneer. The one labeled BD will do the trick. The Samsung needs the input to be HDMI 2.0a and HDCP 2.2 compliant for UHD/HDR.

Answers: I route everything through the Pioneer to HDMI 1 on the TV. I have DirecTV 4K, AppleTV, and the K8500. HDMI 5 does not support HDR. If you have a gaming console such as an xbox, you would plug that into HDMI 5. HDMI 5 has a low lag connection - crucial for massive gaming.

I think that should keep you busy for a couple of minutes. Let us know how it goes. Once the basics are up and going, we can get into more advanced fun.
Hello,

I spent last night making the changes you described and had mixed results.

I checked both Pioneer's and Samsung's firmware and both said that they were up to date. Can you verify that the following is the same firmware you have for the Pioneer;
1-306-009-507-205
(p6.6007.1205)

I went ahead and connected the Pioneer into the HDMI1 port on the TV and also plugged the Samsung into the BD port on the Pioneer. When I pressed info on the TV, I got the following;
1080p HDR10

I then tried connecting the Samsung into the HDMI1 and HDMI2 ports on the Pioneer and got the same results.

Finally, I connected the Samsung directly into the TV's HDMI1 port and got 2160p HDR10

So I'm not sure why I'm only getting 1080p when connected through the Pioneer?

On a side note, what does "Full UHD Color" mean? I see this for Inputs HDMI1 and HDMI5 on the remote.

Bill
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post #8683 of 10246 Old 07-25-2017, 08:21 AM
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Hello,

I spent last night making the changes you described and had mixed results.

I checked both Pioneer's and Samsung's firmware and both said that they were up to date. Can you verify that the following is the same firmware you have for the Pioneer;
1-306-009-507-205
(p6.6007.1205)

I went ahead and connected the Pioneer into the HDMI1 port on the TV and also plugged the Samsung into the BD port on the Pioneer. When I pressed info on the TV, I got the following;
1080p HDR10

I then tried connecting the Samsung into the HDMI1 and HDMI2 ports on the Pioneer and got the same results.

Finally, I connected the Samsung directly into the TV's HDMI1 port and got 2160p HDR10

So I'm not sure why I'm only getting 1080p when connected through the Pioneer?

On a side note, what does "Full UHD Color" mean? I see this for Inputs HDMI1 and HDMI5 on the remote.

Bill
I think @sonoftumble is attending training classes this week, so I will try to help. Since your Samsung player is connected to the BD port on your Pioneer receiver, make sure this port is set to 4:4:4. See page 92 in your Pioneer manual for instructions. Set the Full UHD Color setting for HDMI1 on your Vizio display to ON, as this will allow your Vizio display to receive HDR content that is passed-through your receiver. I hope this helps.

Display: Vizio M65-D0 4K/HDR
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post #8684 of 10246 Old 07-25-2017, 09:10 AM
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Hello,

I spent last night making the changes you described and had mixed results.

I checked both Pioneer's and Samsung's firmware and both said that they were up to date. Can you verify that the following is the same firmware you have for the Pioneer;
1-306-009-507-205
(p6.6007.1205)

I went ahead and connected the Pioneer into the HDMI1 port on the TV and also plugged the Samsung into the BD port on the Pioneer. When I pressed info on the TV, I got the following;
1080p HDR10

I then tried connecting the Samsung into the HDMI1 and HDMI2 ports on the Pioneer and got the same results.

Finally, I connected the Samsung directly into the TV's HDMI1 port and got 2160p HDR10

So I'm not sure why I'm only getting 1080p when connected through the Pioneer?

On a side note, what does "Full UHD Color" mean? I see this for Inputs HDMI1 and HDMI5 on the remote.

Bill

Thanks to @crackthewhip for his help with your issues.. My HDR training is actually going to be done using TeamViewer so the trainer will be able to see my computer screen while running Calman in my house. Pretty Cool!

1) My first thought is that that the cable going from the Pioneer to the TV is not up to snuff. That would explain better why you're only getting 1080P when going through the Pioneer.
Out of the box, the Pioneer should be doing 4K/HDR passthrough by default. In fact by default, the Pioneer should be upscaling 1080P signals to 4K. The common denominator in your case is that cable.

2) Full UHD Color does not mean what the label seems to indicate. It should actually say "Chroma Subsampling" because all it does is allow the TV to receive uncompressed color data when the source is outputting a specific 4K @ 4:4:4/60Hz signal. It has nothing to do with HDR metadata. UHD Blu-rays, cable/satellite, AppleTV, etc. output at 4:2:0/24 or 60, or 4:2:2/24. LEAVE THAT SETTING OFF as it can create issues with playback and resolution switching. Also, some have reported that when they turn it on, HDR is no longer available. You will probably never need to turn that on unless you add a gaming console or other rogue playback device to your setup. We can cross that bridge later.

The first thing is to try a different cable. It needs to be a high-speed cable. If you are like me, I had a bunch of cables that worked fine when my system was 1080, but I had to toss a couple of them when I moved up to 4K. Use the cable that went direct from the blu-ray to the TV - and plug it in from the Pioneer to the TV - and then use a new cable from the Blu-ray to the Pioneer - and let us know if that cured it.


If you're interested in learning more about Chroma subsampling, here's a short read on the what-and-why's of this setting. When you get the time . . . : http://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/chroma-subsampling

EDIT: Your FW is up to date on both the Sammy and the Pioneer.
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post #8685 of 10246 Old 07-25-2017, 09:47 AM
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Thanks to @crackthewhip for his help with your issues.. My HDR training is actually going to be done using TeamViewer so the trainer will be able to see my computer screen while running Calman in my house. Pretty Cool!

1) My first thought is that that the cable going from the Pioneer to the TV is not up to snuff. That would explain better why you're only getting 1080P when going through the Pioneer.
Out of the box, the Pioneer should be doing 4K/HDR passthrough by default. In fact by default, the Pioneer should be upscaling 1080P signals to 4K. The common denominator in your case is that cable.

2) Full UHD Color does not mean what the label seems to indicate. It should actually say "Chroma Subsampling" because all it does is allow the TV to receive uncompressed color data when the source is outputting a specific 4K @ 4:4:4/60Hz signal. It has nothing to do with HDR metadata. UHD Blu-rays, cable/satellite, AppleTV, etc. output at 4:2:0/24 or 60, or 4:2:2/24. LEAVE THAT SETTING OFF as it can create issues with playback and resolution switching. Also, some have reported that when they turn it on, HDR is no longer available. You will probably never need to turn that on unless you add a gaming console or other rogue playback device to your setup. We can cross that bridge later.

The first thing is to try a different cable. It needs to be a high-speed cable. If you are like me, I had a bunch of cables that worked fine when my system was 1080, but I had to toss a couple of them when I moved up to 4K. Use the cable that went direct from the blu-ray to the TV - and plug it in from the Pioneer to the TV - and then use a new cable from the Blu-ray to the Pioneer - and let us know if that cured it.


If you're interested in learning more about Chroma subsampling, here's a short read on the what-and-why's of this setting. When you get the time . . . : http://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/chroma-subsampling

EDIT: Your FW is up to date on both the Sammy and the Pioneer.
Thanks for the quick reply.

The HDMI cable I used last night to get 2160p output were 2 older cables that had "Ferrites", since the length from my TV to the Receiver is about 25 feet, I had to use a "HDMI Female Coupler". Do you think this setup is OK or should I just order a new 25' HDMI cable? If you think I should order a new cable, there are so many options on Amazon, do you have any suggestions on the type/brand?

Bill

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post #8686 of 10246 Old 07-25-2017, 11:19 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply.

The HDMI cable I used last night to get 2160p output were 2 older cables that had "Ferrites", since the length from my TV to the Receiver is about 25 feet, I had to use a "HDMI Female Coupler". Do you think this setup is OK or should I just order a new 25' HDMI cable? If you think I should order a new cable, there are so many options on Amazon, do you have any suggestions on the type/brand?

Bill
Hi Bill,

For 4K/HDR bandwidth, the cable should definitely be one continuous run, regardless of length. Breaking the insulation continuity will allow all kinds of interference to mingle with the A/V data.

It sounds like you have a media center where all the gear is kept, and then a long run from there to the TV. So I'm thinking that you need that long of a cable. If you can go shorter that would be great, but not a deal breaker. Officially, HDMI cables should not exceed 10 ft, but there are lots of offerings out there that are long enough to meet your needs, and also actually work.

Check out these cables: https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Wa...fied+hdmi+25ft

or: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Cab...fied+hdmi+25ft

I've heard great things about the Monoprice brand from other members. The second cable is the high end Monoprice example. Still a reasonable price for its length, and probably worth the investment.

Long HDMI cables can be the Achilles Heal of the system if they are junk. I would get the Monoprice.

John

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post #8687 of 10246 Old 07-25-2017, 11:20 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply.

The HDMI cable I used last night to get 2160p output were 2 older cables that had "Ferrites", since the length from my TV to the Receiver is about 25 feet, I had to use a "HDMI Female Coupler". Do you think this setup is OK or should I just order a new 25' HDMI cable? If you think I should order a new cable, there are so many options on Amazon, do you have any suggestions on the type/brand?

Bill
Bill,
I prewire home theater systems for new homes as my day job, so maybe I can help you with this. Many of my installs require 25' HDMI cables, so I only use passive Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI cables. For in-wall applications, I install a 2" PVC conduit from the TV/projector to the receiver and run the cable through the conduit with a pull string. I've only had one install where the passive cable did not work as expected (Epson 4K projector), so I replaced the passive cable and pulled an active cable instead. Note: Any cable over 6' may experience some degree of signal loss or electrical interference, so proper installation is very important. I've never used cables longer than 25' so I can't say how those will work.

Passive cable: https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=21510
Active cable: https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=12735

If using an active cable, make sure the end labeled TV is plugged into the TV/projector and the end labeled Source is plugged into the receiver. If you are unsure which cable to buy, you may want to contact Monoprice and ask their opinion.
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Display: Vizio M65-D0 4K/HDR
Receiver: Pioneer VSX-530K 4K/HDR Pass-Thru
Media Player: AT&T DirecTV Now Beta Streaming Box
Remote: Logitech Harmony 700 and Harmony Hub
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post #8688 of 10246 Old 07-25-2017, 11:26 AM
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Bill,
I prewire home theater systems for new homes as my day job, so maybe I can help you with this. Many of my installs require 25' HDMI cables, so I only use passive Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI cables. For in-wall applications, I install a 2" PVC conduit from the TV/projector to the receiver and run the cable through the conduit with a pull string. I've only had one install where the passive cable did not work as expected (Epson 4K projector), so I replaced the passive cable and pulled an active cable instead. Note: Any cable over 6' may experience some degree of signal loss or electrical interference, so proper installation is very important. I've never used cables longer than 25' so I can't say how those will work.

Passive cable: https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=21510
Active cable: https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=12735

If using an active cable, make sure the end labeled TV is plugged into the TV/projector and the end labeled Source is plugged into the receiver. If you are unsure which cable to buy, you may want to contact Monoprice and ask their opinion.
Thank you @crackthewhip for those suggestions! I have no experience with long HDMI runs. My longest cable is 8 ft.
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Thank you @crackthewhip for those suggestions! I have no experience with long HDMI runs. My longest cable is 8 ft.
Thanks John and @crackthewhip for your suggestions, I'm going to try the cables that I used last night when I got 2160p (from the Samsung to the TV) and try running it from the Pioneer to the TV and see if I get the same results.

Bill
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post #8690 of 10246 Old 07-25-2017, 02:43 PM
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You might want to read over this thread as well:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-net...l#post42675090
Thanks for the detailed audio link. This forum never ceases to amaze me.

I tried bitstream last night with no luck. This is what I am guessing is happening:

The Blu-ray's I'm trying to play all have DTS-HD soundtracks. When sending the audio to the TV via HDMI, the Blu-ray player is sending DTS-HD, which the TV can't send down via opticial, so it sends PCM.

When I hook up the optical from the Blue-ray player to my receiver, the Blu-ray player sees that it is outputting audio via optical, and sends only the "core" DTS over that output.

This thread explains the core vs. extension concept for DTS-HD and DD+: helpful post.

Perhaps my M65 was never sending DTS down, but ideally it would be able to strip the core DTS (or DD for Dolby formats) and send that out via optical, as the Blu-ray player does. Figured I'd throw that out there in case the foks at Vizio run out of things to do for their firmware updates.
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post #8691 of 10246 Old 07-25-2017, 06:00 PM
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Thanks John and @crackthewhip for your suggestions, I'm going to try the cables that I used last night when I got 2160p (from the Samsung to the TV) and try running it from the Pioneer to the TV and see if I get the same results.

Bill
John and @crackthewhip ,

It's the Pioneer Receiver.

I used the same HDMI cables I used last night and ran it from the output of the Pioneer to the HDMI1 on the TV and I'm only getting 1080p. When I take the same cable and connect it to the Samsung and HDMI1 on the TV I'm getting 2160p (like last night).

I also tried changing the resolution on the Samsung from auto to 2160p, unlike before, I was able to get a picture with it set only to 2160p (yesterday the picture would blank out and after 15 sec change back to auto).

So any suggestions?

By the way, I also checked the BD and HDMI1/2 ports on the Pioneer and all 3 are set to 4.4.4

Bill
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post #8692 of 10246 Old 07-25-2017, 06:04 PM
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Can someone point me in the right direction on this: My Sony HTIB has 1 HDMI port that goes to the tv. Is there a splitter device that I could use to run my PS4 into the Sony and still to my display.


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post #8693 of 10246 Old 07-25-2017, 07:31 PM
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John and @crackthewhip ,

It's the Pioneer Receiver.

I used the same HDMI cables I used last night and ran it from the output of the Pioneer to the HDMI1 on the TV and I'm only getting 1080p. When I take the same cable and connect it to the Samsung and HDMI1 on the TV I'm getting 2160p (like last night).

I also tried changing the resolution on the Samsung from auto to 2160p, unlike before, I was able to get a picture with it set only to 2160p (yesterday the picture would blank out and after 15 sec change back to auto).

So any suggestions?

By the way, I also checked the BD and HDMI1/2 ports on the Pioneer and all 3 are set to 4.4.4

Bill
I just verified this on my setup and was able to duplicate your issue. Change the settings for all inputs to 4:2:0 on the Pioneer. You will have 2160/HDR10 passing through the Pioneer at that point. When I changed the BD input to 4:4:4, I also only got 1080P.

Let me know, but I'm certain this will fix it. Keep this in mind that almost everything that you will watch for the foreseeable - especially UHD Blu-ray's will not push out a 4:4:4 signal. 4:4:4 does nothing with color or image quality when watching movies and other lower bandwidth content.
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post #8694 of 10246 Old 07-26-2017, 06:19 AM
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I just verified this on my setup and was able to duplicate your issue. Change the settings for all inputs to 4:2:0 on the Pioneer. You will have 2160/HDR10 passing through the Pioneer at that point. When I changed the BD input to 4:4:4, I also only got 1080P.

Let me know, but I'm certain this will fix it. Keep this in mind that almost everything that you will watch for the foreseeable - especially UHD Blu-ray's will not push out a 4:4:4 signal. 4:4:4 does nothing with color or image quality when watching movies and other lower bandwidth content.
John,

Just saw your reply this morning. Tonight I'll make the change and let you know the outcome.

I was playing around with the various apps in SmartCast on the Vizio last night and noticed that Amazon isn't available. Do you know a work around, so I can watch Amazon on the TV?

Bill
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post #8695 of 10246 Old 07-26-2017, 07:20 AM
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John,

Just saw your reply this morning. Tonight I'll make the change and let you know the outcome.

I was playing around with the various apps in SmartCast on the Vizio last night and noticed that Amazon isn't available. Do you know a work around, so I can watch Amazon on the TV?

Bill
The next major FW update from Vizio will include the Amazon app. Amazon has never allowed casting from their mobile app because that is part of Google's Chromecast system - and Amazon and Google don't get along. Kind of funny because most of Amazon's hardware ( FireTV, etc. ) runs on the Android operating system. I guess it's because it's free. Amazon has begun to soften their stance somewhat. Amazon Prime is coming soon to the AppleTV as well.

The new FW update will take the mobile device casting apps that most are using and put them on the TV screen - somewhat like a smart TV. You will be able to order a free candy bar style remote from Vizio for controlling the new interface. The Smartcast mobile app has already been updated so it can also control the new Smartcast interface. You might not be able to see that change until your TV gets the new FW. This will all go down in the next two or three weeks - so hang in there.

There are several subscribers to this thread, including myself, who are part of Vizio's beta test brigade. We've been testing beta versions of the new FW with the new casting interface for about three weeks. Vizio expects that the next FW rev. will be a release candidate and will probably be pushed out to everyone.

EDIT: There seems to be some kind of issue with AVS's posting system. I noticed last night that attachments were not displaying as they usually do.
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post #8696 of 10246 Old 07-26-2017, 08:15 AM
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John,

Just saw your reply this morning. Tonight I'll make the change and let you know the outcome.

I was playing around with the various apps in SmartCast on the Vizio last night and noticed that Amazon isn't available. Do you know a work around, so I can watch Amazon on the TV?

Bill
Bill,

The Amazon Video app on the beta SmartCast interface works great, so you will be pleased when it is released to the masses soon. It's so much more convenient than using Samsung's clunky app interface. I have an older Samsung Blu-Ray player and I haven't used their app interface in years.
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Display: Vizio M65-D0 4K/HDR
Receiver: Pioneer VSX-530K 4K/HDR Pass-Thru
Media Player: AT&T DirecTV Now Beta Streaming Box
Remote: Logitech Harmony 700 and Harmony Hub
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post #8697 of 10246 Old 07-26-2017, 09:26 AM
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The next major FW update from Vizio will include the Amazon app. Amazon has never allowed casting from their mobile app because that is part of Google's Chromecast system - and Amazon and Google don't get along. Kind of funny because most of Amazon's hardware ( FireTV, etc. ) runs on the Android operating system. I guess it's because it's free. Amazon has begun to soften their stance somewhat. Amazon Prime is coming soon to the AppleTV as well.



The new FW update will take the mobile device casting apps that most are using and put them on the TV screen - somewhat like a smart TV. You will be able to order a free candy bar style remote from Vizio for controlling the new interface. The Smartcast mobile app has already been updated so it can also control the new Smartcast interface. You might not be able to see that change until your TV gets the new FW. This will all go down in the next two or three weeks - so hang in there.



There are several subscribers to this thread, including myself, who are part of Vizio's beta test brigade. We've been testing beta versions of the new FW with the new casting interface for about three weeks. Vizio expects that the next FW rev. will be a release candidate and will probably be pushed out to everyone.



EDIT: There seems to be some kind of issue with AVS's posting system. I noticed last night that attachments were not displaying as they usually do.


Will YouTube app added to onscreen SmartCast ?


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post #8698 of 10246 Old 07-26-2017, 10:19 AM
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Will YouTube app added to onscreen SmartCast ?


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It's not on there yet, and I don't know what the release app list will look like. If it's not on the first release, it may be something that could be added down the road? Vizio hasn't really said much about adding apps to the new interface. You will still be able to cast YouTube and other apps from your tablet or phone, so you're still covered either way. Keep in mind that the new Smartcast interface is web based as opposed to the TV storing the apps locally. The content providers have been working closely with Vizio to make sure that their apps will eventually land in the new interface.
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post #8699 of 10246 Old 07-26-2017, 12:14 PM
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That sucks, the same happened to me when the sent my M70-D3 replacement 6 months ago (it was a supposedly new D3 not E3) with the dangling bezel. The Manna guys had to take it back off my wall & put my original back. My issue was dirty screen effect so I could live with that. I was still in my 90 day window so I returned it to Sams & ordered another. It also sucks that a lot of these are failing for the backlight issue. I wouldnt take the E3 even up. The dimming zone is one of the reasons I bought this display, and the other 2 reason were a 120 hz panel and HDR. So why should we "even swap" for a 60 hz panel and less zones. If thats what we get I should have stayed with the E70-E3 that I got black friday for just over 800 bucks. So do you still have the D3 or did you accept the E3?
All your points are valid and this is the same exact reasoning I was using. Finally they put in a request for model change or find a new M70-D3. Manager called yesterday saying that they dont have new D3s, they could offer me a refurb/certified D3 if I was OK to accept it. Or other options were (a) get a new M70-E3 or (b) request a refund.

I was happy for a refund, but since I used gift card, they said they will not give me total amount, but only the net amount I paid on my credit card. This was the most weirdest this I heard. The gift card was purchased using my own money, but they dont want to refund that. Looking at all possibilities ... I agreed for new M70-E3 + I get to keep the tablet (not that its worth more than $50 bucks). Not something I really would have liked to do. But to me seemed like I had not much of a choice.

I hate the overall experience with Vizio and may in my circles will know about this soon.
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post #8700 of 10246 Old 07-26-2017, 12:46 PM
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That's very weird about the refund why would it matter how you paid for it. I don't know what your usage is but I own 17, 16 M and the 17 M is definitely used the most. I questioned the reduction in zones before I pulled the trigger on the 17, but after getting it I'm very happy with it. Depending on your usage I don't think you can simply go off specs alone.
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