**OFFICIAL** Entry Level 2016 Samsung 4K UHD KU6300/6500/6600 Series TV Thread - Page 26 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #751 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
An 8-bit panel with FRC (Frame Rate Control/temporal dithering), when done well, will be indistinguishable from a "true" native 10-bit panel.

This TV will except a 10-bit signal (and even a 12-bit signal if I'm not mistaken).

From what I've seen reported in this thread, it should display HDR just fine.


Richard
it does display hdr just fine .. it's 1 weak point i have found is that it does not recognize hdr content on amazon video..
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post #752 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 10:03 AM
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Do you guys set the color space to native when watching HDR?


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post #753 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ras82 View Post
Do you guys set the color space to native when watching HDR?


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i don't ........ quite frankly , with the shortage of hdr/ 4k media , i watch 1080 99 %of the time .. less bandwidth and it upscales fine..

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post #754 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 10:29 AM
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When enabling game mode on these sets, does it take into account the previous picture settings such as Dynamic, Standard or Movie? For example, if I switch the picture settings to movie, then turn on game mode, is it different than being in dynamic then switching to game mode?
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post #755 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jeffsiler View Post
When enabling game mode on these sets, does it take into account the previous picture settings such as Dynamic, Standard or Movie? For example, if I switch the picture settings to movie, then turn on game mode, is it different than being in dynamic then switching to game mode?
Game mode settings are independent.
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post #756 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post
Game mode settings are independent.
Thank you. Really happy with this set for $299 connected to my PS4 Pro. Do you mind answering a couple more quick questions?

- I understand that for HDR content the PS4 Pro displays in YUV and for SDR content displays in RGB. I currently have my PS4 pro set to Automatic for RGB Range, Resolution, and Deep color. The Samsung has UHD enabled on HDMI1 and HDMI HDMI Black level set to auto. Would it be better to set the RGB Range to Full and the TV to Normal? I'm always so confused on the RGB Full setting with Tv's (Monitors I've always forced full instead of limited)

- Why does Native Color space look better than Auto? It seems logical that for HDR content Auto would be better but it doesn't look right and is washed out. Anything wrong with sticking with Native?
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post #757 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by jeffsiler View Post
Thank you. Really happy with this set for $299 connected to my PS4 Pro. Do you mind answering a couple more quick questions?

- I understand that for HDR content the PS4 Pro displays in YUV and for SDR content displays in RGB. I currently have my PS4 pro set to Automatic for RGB Range, Resolution, and Deep color. The Samsung has UHD enabled on HDMI1 and HDMI HDMI Black level set to auto. Would it be better to set the RGB Range to Full and the TV to Normal? I'm always so confused on the RGB Full setting with Tv's (Monitors I've always forced full instead of limited)

- Why does Native Color space look better than Auto? It seems logical that for HDR content Auto would be better but it doesn't look right and is washed out. Anything wrong with sticking with Native?
if you like the settings that way , watch it that way ..make yourself happy .. that's what tvs are for i think....
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post #758 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffsiler View Post
Thank you. Really happy with this set for $299 connected to my PS4 Pro. Do you mind answering a couple more quick questions?



- I understand that for HDR content the PS4 Pro displays in YUV and for SDR content displays in RGB. I currently have my PS4 pro set to Automatic for RGB Range, Resolution, and Deep color. The Samsung has UHD enabled on HDMI1 and HDMI HDMI Black level set to auto. Would it be better to set the RGB Range to Full and the TV to Normal? I'm always so confused on the RGB Full setting with Tv's (Monitors I've always forced full instead of limited)



- Why does Native Color space look better than Auto? It seems logical that for HDR content Auto would be better but it doesn't look right and is washed out. Anything wrong with sticking with Native?


I left my Tv to HDMI Black Level to Auto and my XBox One S to Limited (default).

As for Color Space, Native Saturates the color while Auto gets close to the standard.


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post #759 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Lp85253 View Post
if you like the settings that way , watch it that way ..make yourself happy .. that's what tvs are for i think....
Wouldn't this forum have 2 posts then if this were the case? It's good to get feedback on performance from others.
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post #760 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffsiler View Post
Wouldn't this forum have 2 posts then if this were the case? It's good to get feedback on performance from others.
i agree .. i just happen to think that "above all else" like what you are looking at..... i use rtings settings as a start ..then i do small tweaks...what looks good to you may be opposite looks..
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post #761 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffsiler View Post
Thank you. Really happy with this set for $299 connected to my PS4 Pro. Do you mind answering a couple more quick questions?

- I understand that for HDR content the PS4 Pro displays in YUV and for SDR content displays in RGB. I currently have my PS4 pro set to Automatic for RGB Range, Resolution, and Deep color. The Samsung has UHD enabled on HDMI1 and HDMI HDMI Black level set to auto. Would it be better to set the RGB Range to Full and the TV to Normal? I'm always so confused on the RGB Full setting with Tv's (Monitors I've always forced full instead of limited)

- Why does Native Color space look better than Auto? It seems logical that for HDR content Auto would be better but it doesn't look right and is washed out. Anything wrong with sticking with Native?
I should be getting a Pro soon, glad to hear that it works well with our set. Would u mind posting your settings if using game mode? No, hurry. When u get a chance.

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post #762 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by cc_in_oh View Post
I'm not sure what you mean by maintaining network connectivity but losing the router link.
I mean that I can ping it, but that it doesn't see the internet. I changed from DHCP to fixed IP and it has held for some 30 hours. I want to get a wired connection, but haven't got a good path.

I've used power line before, but they are somewhat unstable in this house.

THANKS!
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post #763 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by indiglo View Post
Not sure if we're having the same problem, see my post number 678 on page 23. I have a Netgear AC 1750 router. I'm just going to leave me on the 2.4 GHz band and hope that firmware update will solve it.
I've got a NetgeAR 6250 ... sounds like the same issue. SO FAR, a fixed IP has helped ... I'll drop to 2.4 if it comes again until I can get my cat5 run to it.

THANKS!
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post #764 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 02:58 PM
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I just received my 50KU6300 and I'm unable to access the Smart Hub. When I get to the Terms and Conditions step, I get an error that "the internet connection is not stable. Please check your internet settings. (1144202)"

I tried both wired and wireless and with both the network status shows that the TV is connected to the internet.
I tried changing the DNS to 8.8.8.8. and also tried 4.4.2.1. but no luck.

Is my TV defective or could it be that Samsung's Smart Hub is down?
I tried googling the issue and I see many people have similar problems getting the Smart Hub to work.

I'm on Verizon FIOS using the Quantum Router. My router is about 3 feet away from the TV.
My Samsung TV says the firmware is up to date. It's currently on firmware 1142.
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post #765 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 04:04 PM
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PS4 Plugged into HDMI1 with the following settings
- Resolution Automatic
- RGB Range Automatic
- HDR Automatic
- Deep Color Automatic

6290 settings
Backlight 20 (Required for HDR)
Brightness 50
Contrast 100
Dynamic Contrast High (Required for me to brighten PS4 games in HDR)
Color Space Native
HDMI UHD Color Enabled (HDMI1)
HDMI Black Level AUTO
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post #766 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
An 8-bit panel with FRC (Frame Rate Control/temporal dithering), when done well, will be indistinguishable from a "true" native 10-bit panel.

Richard
I have to disagree. If you're feeding a true 10 bit image of, say, a glowing orange sunset or rolling fog into an 8 bit panel, and the transitions within the grads are smooth because of some trickeration the monitor is employing, it is a given that the image has to be softer and/or display some motion artifacts in order to achieve that. As to how many viewers out of 100 would notice that at normal viewing distances, well, not many.

If it were indistinguishable, it's unlikely manufacturers would spend the extra money it takes to make or buy a 10 bit panel.
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post #767 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by detonate View Post
I just received my 50KU6300 and I'm unable to access the Smart Hub. When I get to the Terms and Conditions step, I get an error that "the internet connection is not stable. Please check your internet settings. (1144202)"

I tried both wired and wireless and with both the network status shows that the TV is connected to the internet.
I tried changing the DNS to 8.8.8.8. and also tried 4.4.2.1. but no luck.

Is my TV defective or could it be that Samsung's Smart Hub is down?
I tried googling the issue and I see many people have similar problems getting the Smart Hub to work.

I'm on Verizaon FIOS using the Quantum Router. My router is about 3 feet away from the TV.
My Samsung TV says the firmware is up to date. It's currently on firmware 1142.
Try a reset ... turn tv off .....unplug.... hold down power button on back right of tv for 60 seconds...
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post #768 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 06:50 PM
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Do you see a big difference with HDR?

Ok, perhaps I'm just expecting too much from HDR. What I had read was that the difference from 1080P to 4K was barely noticeable (unless you are really close to the screen), but the difference between HDR and non-HDR was really significant. Is that true? I've spent a ridiculous amount of time the last two nights trying to compare identical movies and shows in both HDR and non-HDR mode, and I just really can't see a dramatic difference. Should I?

For some background, I have been testing two movies (Star Trek Beyond and the new Ghostbusters) that came with both a 4k UHD HDR disk and a regular blu-ray disk. I have my UHD player hooked up to HDMI1 (with HDMI UHD Color turned on) and the blu-ray player connected to HDMI2. I pause both movies at the exact same scenes and then flip back and forth between HDMI1 and HDMI2 to compare. The TV confirms it's receiving an HDR signal on HDMI1 because it displays the "An HDR video is playing" message. I've even gone so far as to set my DSLR camera on a tripod and took pictures of both scenes so I could compare the pictures side-by-side. And while the pictures are definitely *different*, it's not always obvious which is better. I think they are mostly different just because I'm using two different players, not because one is 4K HDR and the other is 1080P non-HDR.

Are there any sample videos out there that come in both HDR and non-HDR versions that I could compare? I thought maybe I could throw both on a USB drive and try them out. Or am I just wrong that I should see a significant difference with HDR?
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post #769 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jnelaine View Post
Ok, perhaps I'm just expecting too much from HDR. What I had read was that the difference from 1080P to 4K was barely noticeable (unless you are really close to the screen), but the difference between HDR and non-HDR was really significant. Is that true? I've spent a ridiculous amount of time the last two nights trying to compare identical movies and shows in both HDR and non-HDR mode, and I just really can't see a dramatic difference. Should I?

For some background, I have been testing two movies (Star Trek Beyond and the new Ghostbusters) that came with both a 4k UHD HDR disk and a regular blu-ray disk. I have my UHD player hooked up to HDMI1 (with HDMI UHD Color turned on) and the blu-ray player connected to HDMI2. I pause both movies at the exact same scenes and then flip back and forth between HDMI1 and HDMI2 to compare. The TV confirms it's receiving an HDR signal on HDMI1 because it displays the "An HDR video is playing" message. I've even gone so far as to set my DSLR camera on a tripod and took pictures of both scenes so I could compare the pictures side-by-side. And while the pictures are definitely *different*, it's not always obvious which is better. I think they are mostly different just because I'm using two different players, not because one is 4K HDR and the other is 1080P non-HDR.

Are there any sample videos out there that come in both HDR and non-HDR versions that I could compare? I thought maybe I could throw both on a USB drive and try them out. Or am I just wrong that I should see a significant difference with HDR?
The problem about our set is that it lacks wide color gamut which gives the full effect of hdr. It can read as a 10bit set but it can't display as many colors compared to a true hdr set like the ks8000.

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post #770 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 07:20 PM
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The problem about our set is that it lacks wide color gamut which gives the full effect of hdr. It can read as a 10bit set but it can't display as many colors compared to a true hdr set like the ks8000.

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This pretty much covers it.. tbh.. i am not all that impressed with hdr.. it's nice but i would just as soon watch good media sources on a calibrated 1080p set...
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post #771 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 07:42 PM
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So far for me backlight being at the max is more or less making me forget about HDR content. At least for now. My main 4K display will be in a basement where I have full light control and a lot of viewing is when it's very dim or completely dark.

Backlight at 20 on these new LCDs is torch mode and the eye strain alone gives me enough reason to not even bother.
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post #772 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by booloo View Post
So far for me backlight being at the max is more or less making me forget about HDR content. At least for now. My main 4K display will be in a basement where I have full light control and a lot of viewing is when it's very dim or completely dark.

Backlight at 20 on these new LCDs is torch mode and the eye strain alone gives me enough reason to not even bother.
Turn back light downl
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post #773 of 2409 Old 12-06-2016, 08:12 PM
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I keep backlight at 4. To properly display HDR, backlight needs to be at the max. Even the lower high end (15 or so) causes HDR feeds to not display correctly.

I absolutely hate over the top vivid screens. So I guess it makes sense that HDR isn't winning me over at this point.

Using a KS8000 right now, I am all but decided to exchange it while I can for a 6300 with a larger display.
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post #774 of 2409 Old 12-07-2016, 05:03 AM
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Just a quick update on the below, I exchanged my 50KU6300 at Best Buy last night.

The first thing I noticed was that the packaging inside the box was put together a little better, and the protective screen "foam" was different than what was in the box for the set I returned.

After getting the new set assembled and plugged in, I also noticed the factory Video settings were different out of the box than the old set.

The audio sync issue I was experiencing on the old set also seems to be a non-issue on the new set.

It does look like the gray uniformity might be slightly worse on this set (there is one slim vertical section that looks slightly darker than the rest of the screen...we'll see how it affects watching hockey tonight). I will definitely adjust the backlight to see if it's effect can be mitigated. The only time it would be a concern would be for watching hockey though. All other content I watched last night looked great.

Couple of comparisons between returned set and new set:

Old Set Version No: DF08
Old Set Firmware: 1142

New Set Version No: DE07
New Set Firmware: 1131

Quote:
Originally Posted by tornadobox View Post
Anyone here experience any lip/audio sync issues? I've noticed that my audio is coming slightly after the video.

I'm plugged in via HDMI from cable box and Xbox One S directly into the TV, using the TV speakers. The audio delay setting in the sound menu doesn't seem to actually be doing anything either. I've had it at 0, and all the way up at 200, and it doesn't seem to have an effect on the audio sync.

I've tried my standard cables, and also a known high-speed cable (came with the Xbox One S) and there was no difference. I also reset all settings, disabled UHD on HDMI 1, and the only way it looks fairly normal is if I have the Auto Motion Plus enabled. It's almost like the video is too fast for the audio because all of the interpolation junk is turned off. The problem is I dislike Auto Motion Plus a lot, so I don't want to use that feature. The issue is more prominent on DVD playback than anything else. Blu-ray and cable TV are closer, but still not completely synced.

I'm on FW 1142.

Any thoughts before I toss my old TV back up on the wall?

Last edited by tornadobox; 12-07-2016 at 06:23 AM.
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post #775 of 2409 Old 12-07-2016, 05:24 AM
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Its a budget 4K TV. It is great for the money but don't expect perfection. If the grey bothers you that much I would spend more on a better model and not exchange it for the same and hope for better.


Ya, that's understandable but it's not the dirty screen effect that bothers me so much. I replaced a LG LCD with a crappy panel that I got use to, it's specifically the 3 or 4 horizontal backlight lines that are visible during up/down camera movement that's distracting me. I was wondering if there may be a break in period with new TV's that I should wait for before deciding what to do.
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post #776 of 2409 Old 12-07-2016, 07:47 AM
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any recommendations for an inexpensive bluetooth keyboard? and would one with a built in touchpad work or would it be a waste of money for the touchpad

typing with the remote is really slow and annoying
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post #777 of 2409 Old 12-07-2016, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by detonate View Post
I just received my 50KU6300 and I'm unable to access the Smart Hub. When I get to the Terms and Conditions step, I get an error that "the internet connection is not stable. Please check your internet settings. (1144202)"

I tried both wired and wireless and with both the network status shows that the TV is connected to the internet.
I tried changing the DNS to 8.8.8.8. and also tried 4.4.2.1. but no luck.

Is my TV defective or could it be that Samsung's Smart Hub is down?
I tried googling the issue and I see many people have similar problems getting the Smart Hub to work.

I'm on Verizon FIOS using the Quantum Router. My router is about 3 feet away from the TV.
My Samsung TV says the firmware is up to date. It's currently on firmware 1142.
Did you get a fix for this? am facing the same issue
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post #778 of 2409 Old 12-07-2016, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by booloo View Post
I keep backlight at 4. To properly display HDR, backlight needs to be at the max. Even the lower high end (15 or so) causes HDR feeds to not display correctly.

I absolutely hate over the top vivid screens. So I guess it makes sense that HDR isn't winning me over at this point.

Using a KS8000 right now, I am all but decided to exchange it while I can for a 6300 with a larger display.


Is this right?! There is no way I could have the backlight set to the Max. The tv is in the basement which is very dark. My eyes would start bleeding. Makes me worry less about HDR.
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post #779 of 2409 Old 12-07-2016, 10:25 AM
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any recommendations for an inexpensive bluetooth keyboard? and would one with a built in touchpad work or would it be a waste of money for the touchpad

typing with the remote is really slow and annoying
I use a Logitech K400 with my Nexus player and my HTPC and it works great. Haven't connected it with this TV yet, but I'll give it a try tonight.
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post #780 of 2409 Old 12-07-2016, 10:42 AM
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Is this right?! There is no way I could have the backlight set to the Max. The tv is in the basement which is very dark. My eyes would start bleeding. Makes me worry less about HDR.
Well after watching two videos from Digital Foundry, I just received two completely different answers from the exact same employee posting the videos.

First I heard that on the KS series, when a HDR signal is detected, at least with a PS4 pro, the backlight automatically boosts to 20. Maybe this was fixed with a firmware.

The Digital Foundry video basically states how you need the brightness at 20, or at the bare minimum 15 to get over the 1000 nits to properly display a correct HDR image.

In their second video, they basically just say how to enable game mode as a must due to very bad input lag with HDR and games, but they keep their Backlight on 5.

I'm just thankful the KS series has that one connect box to make HDMI switching simple. I have good settings for standard HD. I gueS HDR will require a lot of patience. It's definitely got a lot of maturing to do.

Still back and forth on this model and the 6300. HDR doesn't really blow me away like I heard from all over the web. Color accuracy and great contrast ratio seems much more important. We will see when the 6300 delivers on Monday. Both prices were so cheap. It's hard to decide.
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