**OFFICIAL** Entry Level 2016 Samsung 4K UHD KU6300/6500/6600 Series TV Thread - Page 44 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1291 of 2409 Old 01-01-2017, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by DrewMogz View Post
Thanks, I definitely appreciate the input. I can't understand how Rting's review had their banding done so well then if mine is so completely off. I mean, they are so banded it's ridiculous, almost all of the gradients have continuous banding and when I view it on my phone or monitor, the image looks great.
What version of the 50" do you have? I have a DE07, and think I might be seeing banding too. Could be that we have the cheap panel.
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post #1292 of 2409 Old 01-01-2017, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by King Richard View Post
You'll have to be a little bit more specific with your question(s).

The post you quoted contained several different questions.




First of all, there is NO difference in audio quality between ARC or S/PDIF (optical or coax).

Therefore, since you are connecting everything to the TV/OCM, it will not make a difference (quality wise) whether you use an Optical cable or an HDMI/ARC cable. If ARC is working fine for you, than stick with that.

Furthermore, I'm I correct that your Soundbar only supports 2.1 channels? If so, then you will not be able to output "true" DD or DTS surround sound - never mind DD+ or any of the HD Audio formats. You'd have to purchase an AVR (and extra speakers) for that.

Just a note about ARC and S/PDIF (optical or coax) for others reading this...

It is NOT possible to get any of the HD Audio formats over an ARC or Optical connection. The issue is with the "bandwidth" required to transmit those "lossless" HD Audio formats.

S/PDIF (Sony/Philips Digital Interface Format) and ARC (Audio Return Channel) - which uses two pins from the HDMI connector, a previously unused pin and the hot plug detect pin, to transmit the audio "upstream" from the TV back to the AVR or Soundbar - simply do not have enough available bandwidth to transmit those extra audio channels or HBR (High Bit Rate) audio codecs.

(Note: The term codec refers to the algorithm used to encode the audio. "Codec" is short for coder-decoder.)

There are a few select TVs out there (some Vizios for instance) who are able to transmit DD+ (Dolby Digital Plus) over ARC. DD+ can carry up to 7.1 channels, as well as a highly compressed form of Dolby Atmos object based audio, from the TV apps. However, it is a "lossy", low bit rate, audio format - it is NOT lossless.

One reason most TVs (e.g. Samsung TVs) can't output DD+ is because they were built with "chips" that allow for just one audio output, and that audio is sent to both S/PDIF and ARC at the same time. Therefore, DD+ content is downgraded to 5.1 DD before being sent out through ARC.

Again, it is NOT possible to send lossless, high bit rate, HD Audio formats through ARC or S/PDIF (optical or coax). It is simply a limitation of the technology.

Let me also point out that NO "on-board" TV streaming app support these lossless audio formats anyways.





Wishing you a wonderful year filled with lots of great TV viewing!


Richard
Thank you Richard! That answered my question. Correct I my soundbar is 2.1, I did purchase the samsung rear speaker kit and said it enhances it to 4.1 Channel. I'm guessing it just amplifies the L and R speakers. But it sounds great and for my budget it works great!

My other question was one that this fellow asked:

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Originally Posted by falcon26 View Post
Just picked up the 55 inch version. I have a few questions from a beginner here :-) I am really glad I have found this forum it has been extremely useful Thanks!

1. I Have the Xbox One S I also have the Tivo Bolt. I hooked up the Xbox to HDMI 1 and enabled the UHD Color. My Tivo is running through the Xbox one so that is directly plugged into the Xbox.

Does running the Tivo through the Xbox mess up anything, like color and visual settings etc?

2. Also I am really confused at the color dept option on the Xbox one s. It says I can do 8 bit at 24 or 10 bit at 30 or 12 bit at 36. Why would I choose the lower 8 bit if I had 12 bit available? What is the best setting for the TV 8, 10 or 12? This TV is for games and watching tv as well as streaming netflix and amazon.

Thanks!
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post #1293 of 2409 Old 01-01-2017, 10:50 PM
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Is the game mode for PC gaming only or Xbox as well?
Game mode works on XBOX as well.
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post #1294 of 2409 Old 01-02-2017, 06:40 AM
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I hate arc and have never used it.
Without more detail my best guess would be something to do with your receiver.
thanks, Bond you were correct. I had to dig into input settings on my AVR and adjust the TV input to "auto" decode and now all is good--TV is set to bitstream and Dolby, and AVR displays Dolby signal being received, and all speakers and subwoofer are receiving correct channels. I have no idea why with my previous tvs (LG and Vizio) this was not necessary, or perhaps I had inadvertently changed a setting in the AVR when I first connected the Samsung. In any event, happy ending.
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post #1295 of 2409 Old 01-02-2017, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Dargent0628 View Post
thanks, Bond you were correct. I had to dig into input settings on my AVR and adjust the TV input to "auto" decode and now all is good--TV is set to bitstream and Dolby, and AVR displays Dolby signal being received, and all speakers and subwoofer are receiving correct channels. I have no idea why with my previous tvs (LG and Vizio) this was not necessary, or perhaps I had inadvertently changed a setting in the AVR when I first connected the Samsung. In any event, happy ending.
Good deal.
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post #1296 of 2409 Old 01-02-2017, 09:57 AM
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Is it just me or do the PS4 games have terrible HDR implementation? Must of the games desaturate the colors, with the exception of Infamous and Final Fantasy XV.
On the PC I've only tried 2 and they look pretty good. (Obduction and Shadow Warrior 2)

Last edited by Metsuki; 01-02-2017 at 10:24 AM.
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post #1297 of 2409 Old 01-02-2017, 06:00 PM
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Hey everyone,

I've had the 40 inch KU6290 for about 2 months now and have this forum to be really helpful. I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to picture quality but started with the recommended settings on here and rtings.com. They have worked really well for the most part, but I was hoping someone could explain the benefits of setting the sharpness to 0. When I'm watching true 4K content on netflix, youtube, or a UHD/blue ray the settings here look great, but when I watch sporting events (which I do pretty often) the picture seems fuzzy when I set the sharpness to 0.

I've found that the picture I like the picture better when I start at the standard picture setting and then set the sharpness to 50. For games I have the picture set at backlight 8, brightness 45, contrast 95, sharpness 50, color 50, tint G/R 50/50, digit clean auto (the source is a X1 cable box from xfinity), auto motion plus auto, dynamic contrast off, and color tone warm 2.

So can somehow help me understand why everyone recommends setting the sharpness to 0? Or do you have any alternative suggestions for my picture settings?

Maybe I'm weird, but I think the sharpness makes for a clearer picture. Most of the websites/forums I've read have said that the sharpness isn't needed with 4K, and I think that's been the case when I watch movies and TV shows, but for some reason I think it makes a difference for football and basketball games. Is there something unique about live sporting events that increases the need for sharpness?

Thanks for all of the help!
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post #1298 of 2409 Old 01-02-2017, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by nre View Post
Hey everyone,

I've had the 40 inch KU6290 for about 2 months now and have this forum to be really helpful. I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to picture quality but started with the recommended settings on here and rtings.com. They have worked really well for the most part, but I was hoping someone could explain the benefits of setting the sharpness to 0. When I'm watching true 4K content on netflix, youtube, or a UHD/blue ray the settings here look great, but when I watch sporting events (which I do pretty often) the picture seems fuzzy when I set the sharpness to 0.

I've found that the picture I like the picture better when I start at the standard picture setting and then set the sharpness to 50. For games I have the picture set at backlight 8, brightness 45, contrast 95, sharpness 50, color 50, tint G/R 50/50, digit clean auto (the source is a X1 cable box from xfinity), auto motion plus auto, dynamic contrast off, and color tone warm 2.

So can somehow help me understand why everyone recommends setting the sharpness to 0? Or do you have any alternative suggestions for my picture settings?

Maybe I'm weird, but I think the sharpness makes for a clearer picture. Most of the websites/forums I've read have said that the sharpness isn't needed with 4K, and I think that's been the case when I watch movies and TV shows, but for some reason I think it makes a difference for football and basketball games. Is there something unique about live sporting events that increases the need for sharpness?

Thanks for all of the help!
in game mode a sharpness of 50 is the correct setting from what a have read..as far as the other modes 0 is correct .. but .. if you prefer to increase that vaue it sure won't hurt anything .. it may well make sports and live tv look better...
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post #1299 of 2409 Old 01-02-2017, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by nre View Post
can somehow help me understand why everyone recommends setting the sharpness to 0? Or do you have any alternative suggestions for my picture settings?

Maybe I'm weird, but I think the sharpness makes for a clearer picture. Most of the websites/forums I've read have said that the sharpness isn't needed with 4K, and I think that's been the case when I watch movies and TV shows, but for some reason I think it makes a difference for football and basketball games. Is there something unique about live sporting events that increases the need for sharpness?
It really doesn't matter what 'everyone recommends', nor what 'most websites/forums' say.

What matters is what you think of the images, what looks pleasing to you when watching different content.

If you like the sharpness turned up when watching sports (I assume being live sports it's 1080i or 720p content), turn the sharpness up.

Really, all the settings mentioned everywhere are suggestions or starting points - it's only relevant what you think of what you're seeing.

It's only important that the settings be precisely correct to standards in a production or post production environment, where a great deal of care is taken (mostly) to ensure that's so.
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post #1300 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 12:32 AM
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Guys, another question. How does this hold up against Vizio M & P series?
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post #1301 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 03:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nre View Post
Hey everyone,

I've had the 40 inch KU6290 for about 2 months now and have this forum to be really helpful. I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to picture quality but started with the recommended settings on here and rtings.com. They have worked really well for the most part, but I was hoping someone could explain the benefits of setting the sharpness to 0. When I'm watching true 4K content on netflix, youtube, or a UHD/blue ray the settings here look great, but when I watch sporting events (which I do pretty often) the picture seems fuzzy when I set the sharpness to 0.

I've found that the picture I like the picture better when I start at the standard picture setting and then set the sharpness to 50. For games I have the picture set at backlight 8, brightness 45, contrast 95, sharpness 50, color 50, tint G/R 50/50, digit clean auto (the source is a X1 cable box from xfinity), auto motion plus auto, dynamic contrast off, and color tone warm 2.

So can somehow help me understand why everyone recommends setting the sharpness to 0? Or do you have any alternative suggestions for my picture settings?

Maybe I'm weird, but I think the sharpness makes for a clearer picture. Most of the websites/forums I've read have said that the sharpness isn't needed with 4K, and I think that's been the case when I watch movies and TV shows, but for some reason I think it makes a difference for football and basketball games. Is there something unique about live sporting events that increases the need for sharpness?

Thanks for all of the help!
Panels vary. Sources vary. Opinions vary. Thats why those settings are there.
Set them however you like.
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post #1302 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Lp85253 View Post
in game mode a sharpness of 50 is the correct setting from what a have read..as far as the other modes 0 is correct .. but .. if you prefer to increase that vaue it sure won't hurt anything .. it may well make sports and live tv look better...
This is incorrect, in PC mode sharpness is 50 for no sharpness and other modes(including game mode) is 0 for no sharpness.
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post #1303 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 09:39 AM
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I've placed an order for the UN65KU6500 and I was wondering if the 60hz is much of a disadvantage compared to a 120hz for movies at 24p? I know the KU6500 has AutoMotion plus but can it reduce most of the judder without having too much of the soap opera effect?

How much control is there with auto motion plus? Can you only choose between 3 settings like Clear, Smooth and Off or can you fine tune it?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I did some research and found a great article on 24p from 2008 but it is still quite relevant. http://www.projectorcentral.com/judd...-Causes-Judder

I forgot that anything filmed at less than 30fps with panning in it will result in judder regardless of the panel's refresh rate. Even a 120hz native panel would have some judder regardless with the fact that 24 can be divided from 120 evenly. The frame interpolation does help to reduce this problem but can introduce other issues like artifacts. I was worried that 24p film was going to be far far worse on a 60hz panel than a 120hz panel. Some people actually like the judder as a purist thing.

Last edited by jra2k1; 01-03-2017 at 10:16 AM. Reason: Did some googling
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post #1304 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jra2k1 View Post
I've placed an order for the UN65KU6500 and I was wondering if the 60hz is much of a disadvantage compared to a 120hz for movies at 24p? I know the KU6500 has AutoMotion plus but can it reduce most of the judder without having too much of the soap opera effect?

How much control is there with auto motion plus? Can you only choose between 3 settings like Clear, Smooth and Off or can you fine tune it?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I did some research and found a great article on 24p from 2008 but it is still quite relevant. http://www.projectorcentral.com/judd...-Causes-Judder

I forgot that anything filmed at less than 30fps with panning in it will result in judder regardless of the panel's refresh rate. Even a 120hz native panel would have some judder regardless with the fact that 24 can be divided from 120 evenly. The frame interpolation does help to reduce this problem but can introduce other issues like artifacts. I was worried that 24p film was going to be far far worse on a 60hz panel than a 120hz panel. Some people actually like the judder as a purist thing.
This is an article from 2008, telecine judder is a constant issue as the whole film is played with 3:2 pulldown, 24p judder in some panning are very rare and by now 24p contents are played smooth in most case if it is played at a multiple of 24 for the refresh rate.

KU series use 3:2 pulldown, this is very easy to see and pain for my eyes, my samsung 40b651 from 2009 don't use 3:2 pulldown, i can tell you there is a huge different in smoothness between them

On KU6%%% series, Auto Motion only has judder reduction settings which i found ineffective and led clear motion settings

KS series (and my old 40B651) got a "blur reduction" settings that help to smooth 24p playback without introducing soap opera effect

Honestly after using my 55KU6400 for some weeks, it is unable to play anything smooth and totally ruin my experience, i will lose some money but i will send it and buy a 49KS7000

I prefer to lose 5" and get a 120 hz panel without any judder problem and complete motion settings.
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post #1305 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by jra2k1 View Post
I've placed an order for the UN65KU6500 and I was wondering if the 60hz is much of a disadvantage compared to a 120hz for movies at 24p?
If you are coming from a 60Hz TV you will not notice it because it is the same judder you have already been seeing. If you have a 120Hz already it will likely be a noticeable difference. I replaced a 60Hz TV with a 55KU6300 and I only see it on long horizontal pans just as I did with my previous TV. It does not bother me or the wife.

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post #1306 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 11:56 AM
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If you are coming from a 60Hz TV you will not notice it because it is the same judder you have already been seeing. If you have a 120Hz already it will likely be a noticeable difference. I replaced a 60Hz TV with a 55KU6300 and I only see it on long horizontal pans just as I did with my previous TV. It does not bother me or the wife.
no, some 60 hz tv play 24p at 48 hz and so have no 3:2 pulldown judder
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post #1307 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 12:40 PM
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I own the KU6290 40 inch set, and noticed a peculiar thing happening this weekend.

BBC America (I think) had a Star Trek Voyager marathon going, and I don't know if they just took the original 480i footage and shoved it into a 1080i container (the marathon was disappointingly in 4:3 pillarbox - I was hoping they had re-transferred it from the original 35mm film to 16:9), but on the 6290 I had this strange effect where people walking across the room would jump forward in kind of a stuttering manner, as if the set was skipping displaying occasional frames. Little to no camera movement, but the characters (and CGI starship) popped around the set. I had one of the motion compensation controls (don't remember what it's called but it was the first one) set to "1", and nothing else enabled in that area. Turning that off fixed the issue. The set was being fed from a 1080i TiVo.

No problem with the same footage on my LG OLED.

I'm pretty sure I'll be returning the set. I realize it's 'entry level' and that Samsung has to differentiate their product lines, but too many compromises in too many areas for me.

I really really wish someone would come out with a 37"-43" OLED set.
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post #1308 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Tree Dude View Post
If you are coming from a 60Hz TV you will not notice it because it is the same judder you have already been seeing. If you have a 120Hz already it will likely be a noticeable difference. I replaced a 60Hz TV with a 55KU6300 and I only see it on long horizontal pans just as I did with my previous TV. It does not bother me or the wife.
My LG 42 is a 120hz set. Though I would hope that Samsung Clear Motion technology with a setting of 2 or 3 on the judder setting should eliminate most or all of it even though its a 60hz tv?
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post #1309 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 01:07 PM
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My LG 42 is a 120hz set. Though I would hope that Samsung Clear Motion technology with a setting of 2 or 3 on the judder setting should eliminate most or all of it even though its a 60hz tv?
not at all, you can't fully eliminate 3:2 pulldown judder.
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post #1310 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 02:57 PM
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When watching cable (directv genie) directly connected to HDMI 1 I also don't see 720p, 1080I, etc...why would that be? Maybe that's correct with the TV but it seems odd to me.
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post #1311 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 03:06 PM
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When watching cable (directv genie) directly connected to HDMI 1 I also don't see 720p, 1080I, etc...why would that be? Maybe that's correct with the TV but it seems odd to me.
Press and hold Select for more info.
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post #1312 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 03:13 PM
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Press and hold Select for more info.
Thanks. I'll go ahead and do that.
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post #1313 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 03:22 PM
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I'm on CBS and it shows 1920/1080/60i. I suppose that means 1080i. Is that what I should see instead of just 1080i like every other TV I've owned? That's fine but wanted to be sure there's not another option that would show just 1080i or whatever the display is showing.
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post #1314 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 04:19 PM
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I'm on CBS and it shows 1920/1080/60i. I suppose that means 1080i. Is that what I should see instead of just 1080i like every other TV I've owned? That's fine but wanted to be sure there's not another option that would show just 1080i or whatever the display is showing.
Normal
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I tried to have paragraphs when i posted but the forum bunched up my text. Second try to post. I got the un50ku6300 for Christmas. Was bought on black Thursday at Walmart. I have had nothing but problems with this tv. It was a gift so i can't return it. First issue i need worked out. I have a xfx ati radeon hd 4850 1gb card. I know an old legacy support card and i have to use open source driver. I am using an dvi to hdmi adapter. (it has all the pins accept the 4 analog pins.) I just bought the adapter 2 days ago. It carries my audio fine if hooked to my pc monitor I checked. No audio skips every so many seconds even on mp3 files unlike when connected to the tv. I have used linux for a few years exclusively. Sorry i wont use windows anymore forced updates backdoors and the works. When using my new adapter linux gets confused and tries to set the tv resolution to something unsupported and screen goes screwy during grub on my main monitor and blank screen on tv. My main monitor is hooked to dvi-0 port and TV on the dvi-1 port. Swapped and made no difference. This will do it on live cd's too. After i boot i have to try to make my way to display settings while my main monitor is garbled and disable the tv click re-enable set to 1920x1080 to get a picture on the tv. I am not trying to run 4k. I know dvi can't do 4k. It tries to set tv to max resolution by default every boot. I am trying to run 1080p. My main monitor is a 1080p acer H213H. I have an older computer with hdmi and it sets the tv at 1080p on boot and sound is fine. It is to slow anymore however. Not enough memory and need to upgrade processor and vid card in it. The same OS. Linux Mint cinnamon. 17.3. I built all my PC's Anyway what happens is on the tv after i get a picture and enable hdmi sound on my radeon card it makes a skip sound every so many seconds. Like a stutter. The video is fine. It does not matter what audio i play. Video or Music / mp3. If i plug headphones into my PC the audio is skip free and if i use the same adapter on my pc monitor then my monitor plays the sound with no skips. I never use the speakers on my monitor as they are not very loud so i just use dvi. It has dvi, hdmi, and vga on it. The same cable and adapter works fine on my monitor but the tv has stutter if i use it for the tv. I don't get it. Unless it is a fault with the tv. I couldn't seem to find another way to input any audio to the tv when using hdmi. I tried to use the adapter plug that came with the tv (red white yellow green analog audio) and i get no audio to the tv coming from the pc. I don't have toslink on the pc so i couldn't try that. I may have a spdif header on my motherboard however. I can get into the service menu as i programmed my ps3 bd remote to control the tv. On the tv it says DB02 but in service menu it says it is a 50D6AU2VK panel. Don't know who makes it but would like to know. Did i reduce my picture quality by going into the service menu? I went and looked around and i did one test. Not a calibration and got a lot of fail messages. I made sure not to select calibrate tv as i heard it screwed peoples tv's up. However after i exited the service menu it reset settings on the tv and i set them back to how i had them before but i think my picture quality was reduced some. Maybe i just think that and am paranoid about it. One other thing that bothers me is if i am on a webpage and white screen scroll text i can see really bad uniformity of the picture darker in spots and i notice it quit a bit i guess i am sensitive to that. Unlike a hisense 40inch h5c and my acer monitor. They are very uniform. The hisense isn't mine however, i was just borrowing it and had the other computer hooked to it. I wasn't sure if it was because my mom who gave it to me on Christmas hauled it laid down flat instead of upright. That ticked me off when she did that and i found out she could of hauled it upright the whole time as there was enough room in her truck. When i cleaned my screen off with an anti static wipe made for tv's when i get near the edges i felt a slight pop in popout and hear a pop sound like it isnt attached good inside. I didnt use pressure at all. Very gentle. Dies any of your tv's do that? is it normal? I am just wondering if my picture is being degraded because of my mom laying it down flat when she hauled it when she didnt have to. I can't get her to let me take it back as she don't think anything is wrong with it. Been tempted to screw the screen up on purpose and return it.
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post #1316 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 05:29 PM
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**OFFICIAL** Entry Level 2016 Samsung 4K UHD KU6300/6500/6600 Series TV Thread

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Originally Posted by Reblochon View Post
not at all, you can't fully eliminate 3:2 pulldown judder.


But can you make it less apparent to the point where it's acceptable for a 60hz panel without making it look like a soap opera?


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Last edited by jra2k1; 01-03-2017 at 05:34 PM.
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post #1317 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jra2k1 View Post
But can you make it less apparent to the point where it's acceptable for a 60hz panel without making it look like a soap opera?


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Acceptable is subjective. Reblechon finds the judder unacceptable. Others dont even notice it.
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post #1318 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 05:51 PM
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Hiding/editing OTA entries difficulty

There were, with Charter, local channels they didn't provide; I have a simple monopole to watch NC PBS. With the DirecTV issue with WYFF, I hooked it up to my KU6300 and scanned. There are channels I'd like to skip. The online manual makes it look easy, but I'm not sure if I'm stupid or just ignorant.

It shows "the home key" > Live TV > Channel List > All Channels > Edit to get there; I see nothing similar. Has this changed, or am I worse than ignorant?

How is it done?
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post #1319 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by gbynum View Post
It shows "the home key" > Live TV > Channel List > All Channels > Edit to get there; I see nothing similar. Has this changed, or am I worse than ignorant?
No idea what direct tv issue with wyff means but if you did an ota scan with an ota antenna these are correct instructions.

Last edited by Bond 007; 01-03-2017 at 06:02 PM.
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post #1320 of 2409 Old 01-03-2017, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbynum View Post
There were, with Charter, local channels they didn't provide; I have a simple monopole to watch NC PBS. With the DirecTV issue with WYFF, I hooked it up to my KU6300 and scanned. There are channels I'd like to skip. The online manual makes it look easy, but I'm not sure if I'm stupid or just ignorant.

It shows "the home key" > Live TV > Channel List > All Channels > Edit to get there; I see nothing similar. Has this changed, or am I worse than ignorant?

How is it done?
Not sure if i know what you are saying but i use OTA antenna and i use favorites to hide the non hd channels. First press menu go to Channel List. Press right to select Favorites. Click Favorites 1 through 5. Select edit and add the channels you want to show up on that favorites list. Press the tv guide button. Press left and go to where it says all channels select the Favorite list you used 1 - 5. You seem to also be able to edit all channels instead of the favorites list too.
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