**OFFICIAL** Entry Level 2016 Samsung 4K UHD KU6300/6500/6600 Series TV Thread - Page 56 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1651 of 2437 Old 02-03-2017, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenW23 View Post
Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone else has come across this same problem.
This is my 2nd 60” KU6290 from Costco. The first one had some black smudges behind the panel. This one I have now is pretty nice, just minor banding but that is expected. The major issue I’m having now started about 3-4 weeks ago. The problem now is upon powering on the tv. This green scrambled pic and stutter appears for less than a second, then resumes showing the regular channel. Upon powering on the tv, it shows whatever is on my HD cable box (Rogers Explorer HD4250). The green scrambled picture appears like its initializing then stabilizing the image of some sort. I have done some google research. Some are saying to disable the 480i/480p signal and just leave the 720p/1080i signal on the HD box. I tried that, same issue.

The HD box is connected to HDMI port 2 on the tv. I have switched out the HDMI cable for a new one, problem still exists. The only remedy that seems to work temporarily. Unplug the tv from the outlet for a few mins then plug back in. That seems to fix that issue.. but it only sticks for temporarily. Till the next time I turn the tv on and same issue occurs. I've also fully reset the HD box.

I should also mention this problem didn’t exist until maybe a day after the 1162 update was pushed to the tv. (The set I returned also didn’t experience this probkem, running 1155 software before) Coincidentally though, my mom for some reason used my old Samsung smart tv remote on this KU6290 set the time when 1162 was pushed. That old remote worked, it’s able to control everything this smart remote does. So I’m not sure if the 1162 update had caused this issue, or because my mom used the old remote on this tv.. Infrared signals?

I also took another HD box of another brand from another room and hooked it up to the tv. Same green screen issue. The HD boxes, respectively do not experience this symptom when connected to another tv in the house. A 55' Smart LED tv from 2013.

I’ve ran out of solutions. I’m still in the 90 day return period at Costco. I’d like to avoid returning since everything else works on this tv. Blurays play fine, my Sony Home theatre in a box works, my HTPC connected to it also works. No random image judder or lines. This green screen issue is minor and only happens upon powering on the tv. It doesn’t bother my parents. But because I’m OCD about technology and it bothers me lol.

I’ve recorded the issue that I am describing.

Thanks for any input that can be provided! (REALLY SORRY FOR THE LONG POST!)

https://youtu.be/m_xG8rJsk_Y
I've watched your video a few time's and the first thing that came to mind is an HDMI issue but you said you have replaced those and it still happen's. What brand of HDMI cables are you using and do you run everything through and AVR or no? It's not a cable box issue because you said you switched those out so that must not be the problem. But to my eye it seems to be an issue with the HDMI cord your using. Someone else may have a better idea I dont know. But the problem happens real quick from what I saw on your video. If you are still in the 90 day return period you could exchange it or you can just live with it because you never know what you may get with your next tv because it's a crap shoot as I call it when it come's to tv's now days. Sorry I couldnt be of more help.
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post #1652 of 2437 Old 02-03-2017, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenW23 View Post
Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone else has come across this same problem.
This is my 2nd 60” KU6290 from Costco. The first one had some black smudges behind the panel. This one I have now is pretty nice, just minor banding but that is expected. The major issue I’m having now started about 3-4 weeks ago. The problem now is upon powering on the tv. This green scrambled pic and stutter appears for less than a second, then resumes showing the regular channel. Upon powering on the tv, it shows whatever is on my HD cable box (Rogers Explorer HD4250). The green scrambled picture appears like its initializing then stabilizing the image of some sort. I have done some google research. Some are saying to disable the 480i/480p signal and just leave the 720p/1080i signal on the HD box. I tried that, same issue.

The HD box is connected to HDMI port 2 on the tv. I have switched out the HDMI cable for a new one, problem still exists. The only remedy that seems to work temporarily. Unplug the tv from the outlet for a few mins then plug back in. That seems to fix that issue.. but it only sticks for temporarily. Till the next time I turn the tv on and same issue occurs. I've also fully reset the HD box.

I should also mention this problem didn’t exist until maybe a day after the 1162 update was pushed to the tv. (The set I returned also didn’t experience this probkem, running 1155 software before) Coincidentally though, my mom for some reason used my old Samsung smart tv remote on this KU6290 set the time when 1162 was pushed. That old remote worked, it’s able to control everything this smart remote does. So I’m not sure if the 1162 update had caused this issue, or because my mom used the old remote on this tv.. Infrared signals?

I also took another HD box of another brand from another room and hooked it up to the tv. Same green screen issue. The HD boxes, respectively do not experience this symptom when connected to another tv in the house. A 55' Smart LED tv from 2013.

I’ve ran out of solutions. I’m still in the 90 day return period at Costco. I’d like to avoid returning since everything else works on this tv. Blurays play fine, my Sony Home theatre in a box works, my HTPC connected to it also works. No random image judder or lines. This green screen issue is minor and only happens upon powering on the tv. It doesn’t bother my parents. But because I’m OCD about technology and it bothers me lol.

I’ve recorded the issue that I am describing.

Thanks for any input that can be provided! (REALLY SORRY FOR THE LONG POST!)

https://youtu.be/m_xG8rJsk_Y
I unfortunately do not know what is causing this, but I am having a very similar issue with also a KU6290 from Costco.
Here is a quick glimpse of my issue. If you put the Youtube video at a slower speed, you will clearly see it. It is also happening with my (Samsung) cable box, I have not seen this on any other inputs.
Sorry for the low budget version.
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post #1653 of 2437 Old 02-03-2017, 09:49 AM
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I have the KS8000 but can't find a panel without very noticeable light bleeding. There are also so many issues with streaming good hdr content that I'm not sure this early into the 4k evolution having a 10bit panel is worth it. I have the 55 inch for $1000. Costco now has the 60 inch ku6300 which seems like a much better deal. Viewing the sets side by side Im not sure 300 more for a smaller set, especially with their build issues and light bleed is worth it. Anyone else here have similar thoughts? How are you all liking the set?
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post #1654 of 2437 Old 02-03-2017, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by rpearlberg View Post
I'm going to give this a try also. So far I love the TV (50" 6300), only wish I would have gone for the 55" instead!
awesome. Let me know how it works for you
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post #1655 of 2437 Old 02-03-2017, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by alenafix View Post
Hey guys, can someone pretty please tell who made my panel cant find anywhere ? It is CJ05 version ,UN55Ku6300 is a TV - much appreciated.
CSOT - China Star ...
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post #1656 of 2437 Old 02-03-2017, 11:24 AM
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I bought a KU6490 65" model. How does that model fit into the series in this thread. Samsung confuses me when it comes to their naming convention. Is this unit back lit or does it have individual zones like the Vizio?

AVR Yamaha RX-V 1800/1900/1500
TT/Cassette ProJect Xpression III/Yamaha KX1200/KX800
BR Yam. BD-S681/Sony X800/Pan. BD30 DPL Sam. 65"/ 55"/50"
Speakers PSB T-45,8C,1B/ PSB 500,200C,RBH A600/Alphas
Subs Rythmic LV12-R/PSB Subsonic 6/5
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post #1657 of 2437 Old 02-03-2017, 11:34 AM
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Does anyone know where I can get a 6300 or 6290 for $500, besides BB? I ordered one from BB last night. It was only available for delivery. Everything went through and I scheduled a delivery, etc. Then, today, they just called and said it was on backorder and said I would have to reschedule the delivery, and they said they can't guarantee that it will ever even be back in stock...

When I tried to reschedule the delivery, there are dates available. But when I choose one of the available dates, it gives an error and says the date is no longer available...

Any suggestions?
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post #1658 of 2437 Old 02-03-2017, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ergalthema View Post
Does anyone know where I can get a 6300 or 6290 for $500, besides BB? I ordered one from BB last night. It was only available for delivery. Everything went through and I scheduled a delivery, etc. Then, today, they just called and said it was on backorder and said I would have to reschedule the delivery, and they said they can't guarantee that it will ever even be back in stock...

When I tried to reschedule the delivery, there are dates available. But when I choose one of the available dates, it gives an error and says the date is no longer available...

Any suggestions?
If this is a duplicate post, sorry.

Have you looked at the samsung store online?

They have the 55" KU6290 for $499, free shipping.

It looks like they are in stock but not sure.
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post #1659 of 2437 Old 02-03-2017, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dr.ripco View Post
If this is a duplicate post, sorry.

Have you looked at the samsung store online?

They have the 55" KU6290 for $499, free shipping.
I'll probably do that. Thanks so much!
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post #1660 of 2437 Old 02-03-2017, 01:16 PM
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Just got the Best Buy 6290. I have it connected to a TiVo Roamio and a Vizio sound bar. I would like to have the TiVo remote control the TV but I don't seem to find a working code. Any ideas?


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post #1661 of 2437 Old 02-03-2017, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by steve1971 View Post
I've watched your video a few time's and the first thing that came to mind is an HDMI issue but you said you have replaced those and it still happen's. What brand of HDMI cables are you using and do you run everything through and AVR or no? It's not a cable box issue because you said you switched those out so that must not be the problem. But to my eye it seems to be an issue with the HDMI cord your using. Someone else may have a better idea I dont know. But the problem happens real quick from what I saw on your video. If you are still in the 90 day return period you could exchange it or you can just live with it because you never know what you may get with your next tv because it's a crap shoot as I call it when it come's to tv's now days. Sorry I couldnt be of more help.
Thanks for the input! The HDMI cable is iCan (Canadian company) they're reuputable, and its version 1.4. My AVR is connected to HDMI-2 and the things running through it are HTPC, PS3, and a Sony Bu-Ray player. I actually watched my video again. I noticed in the info bar where it disyplays HDMI 2 and 1920x1080/60i resolution information. As soon as the word "HD" comes up right next to the 1920x1080/60i thats when it flashes and adjusts to resolution,. In what I can only assume. This never happened prior to the 1162 software update.

So I'm wondering if this is normal with any other people. Or I should be concerned and packing this up and bringing it back to Costco?
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post #1662 of 2437 Old 02-03-2017, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sykopat View Post
I unfortunately do not know what is causing this, but I am having a very similar issue with also a KU6290 from Costco.
Here is a quick glimpse of my issue. If you put the Youtube video at a slower speed, you will clearly see it. It is also happening with my (Samsung) cable box, I have not seen this on any other inputs.
Sorry for the low budget version.
https://youtu.be/_Isk9SeIfb0
What software version is on your tv? 1162? If its 1162, was this happening prior to this update? This is puzzling for me as well in my issue.

I'm still in the return window. But prefer not to pack it up and lugging it back to Costco.
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post #1663 of 2437 Old 02-03-2017, 07:04 PM
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Exclamation Light and our Perception of Color

Light plays a HUGE role in the way we perceive color. It’s actually the color of the light that determines the color your brain will perceive. The color of light makes things appear to change throughout the day, even though the objects themselves remain the same.

At night, colors appear much darker and lose their saturation and intensity. At sunrise everything has a yellowish-orange cast. At noon on a sunny day, the environment is cooler and more blue. Under fluorescent light, everything appears more green. And at sunset, colors are deeper and cast in shadow.



As strange as it sounds, objects themselves don’t have color. They have properties that determine which wavelengths of light are absorbed, and which are reflected. It is the mixture of the reflected light that enters our eyes that gives us the perception of color.

In addition to "lighting", there are a number of other factors which play a role in our ability to accurately see color, such as, surrounding colors, poor color memory, color deficiency, retinal fatigue, age, etc.

"The Dress"

Do you recall the social media controversy around "The Dress"?
What did you see? "Blue and black" or "white and gold"?
(Note: The original picture is the one in the middle.)



It all has to do with our perception of color. Our eyes can play tricks on us as our brain is managing vast amount of information and processing it the best it can. Without a point of reference, we each perceive color in our own way.

If you believe the dress picture was taken in bright sunlight, your brain will apply darker colors and you’ll think it’s "blue & black". But if you think the dress is hidden in a shadow, you’ll imagine the colors to be "white & gold".

The photo of the dress was not taken under ideal lighting conditions, and it is that lack of information that confused everyone’s brain. Lighting and the technology we use to view things is a major factor in color perception. Different people pick up on different visual cues, which changes how we interpret and perceive colors.

(Incidentally, the actual colour of the dress was confirmed to be "blue & black")

Color Memory

While lighting explains part of the dress color mystery, there’s something else at play. Our brains have "learned" how objects should look (color memory), and we apply this knowledge to everything we see. However, human color memory is not very reliable.

Have you ever gone to the Paint Store and tried to choose a color from "color samples" that will match the color your couch or curtains, from memory? How did that work out for you? Even looking at two colors across the room from each other to see if they match is often futile. To compare colors, you need to look at them together, side-by-side, in a neutral environment… preferably under controlled lighting conditions.

Take "white", for example. Magazine pages, newspapers, and printer paper are all white, but if you lay them side-by-side, you’ll see that each "white" is actually quite different. The newsprint will appear more yellow, and next to the newspaper the printer paper will probably look even brighter than you originally thought. Whites look alike unless we have a point of reference to change our impression.

Conversely, the same white sheet of paper viewed under different light sources with different color temperatures and intensities (bright sunlight vs. a tungsten bulb for instance) will be perceived as a different "color" or "shade of white". However, your brain can easily fool your eyes into seeing the same shade of white in both cases. That's because your brain knows what color the paper should be and can compensate for the effect of the lighting and trick your eyes into actually seeing the same white.

This feature of the visual system is also known as "chromatic adaptation", or "color constancy". Chromatic adaptation is the human visual system’s ability to adjust to changes in illumination in order to preserve the appearance of object colors despite the wide variation of light which might be reflected from an object and observed by our eyes.

Here’s a cool optical illusion from R. Beau Lotto (labofmisfits.com) that illustrates how our color memory can completely change the appearance of a color. The center squares on the top and front side of the cube look pretty different – orange on the front, brown on the top, right?




But when you "mask" the rest of the squares, you can see the two are actually identical.



That’s because our brain subconsciously factors in the light source and mentally corrects the color on the front of the cube as shadowed. Amazing isn’t it?

White Balance and Color Temperature

To understand the concept of White Balance, you need to first understand the concept of Color Temperature.

Color temperature is a characteristic of visible light. It provides a method of describing these characteristics and is measured in Kelvin (K). A light having a higher color temperature will have more blue light or larger Kelvin value as compared to a light with a lower color temperature, which has a smaller Kelvin value.

5000K produces roughly neutral light, whereas 3000K and 9000K produce light spectrums which shift to contain more orange and blue wavelengths, respectively. As the color temperature rises, the color distribution becomes cooler. This may not seem intuitive, but results from the fact that shorter wavelengths contain light of higher energy.



You must have noticed some photos turn out with an orange/yellow cast if shot under a tungsten bulb (a normal household incandescent bulb) or a bluish cast if shot under fluorescent lights. This occurs because each source of light possesses a different color temperature.

In a photo taken under the midday sun there is the whole spectrum of light (which makes up "white" sunlight). Under these conditions, the colors in an image appear nearest to the "true" colors.

An image taken under tungsten lighting, without adjusting the digital camera for white balance, produces the dull orange shade as it spreads the biased light. Similarly, an image taken under the fluorescent lighting produces a brighter bluish cast. Capturing accurate colors with a camera starts with proper White Balance. Setting the white balance will tell the camera what white really is, so it can capture the correct colors based on the light source.

"White Balance" Settings

As I mentioned in my "Picture Settings Guide", Color Temperature (or the temperature of "white") refers to the color of the light source that's being displayed on your screen. Generally speaking, the "Cool" settings are more suited for viewing in a brightly-lit room whereas the "Warm" settings are more suited for viewing in a dimly-lit room.

The "White Balance" setting on the TV is used to make more precise adjustments to the color temperature of the picture in order to make white objects look white and the overall picture appear natural. It changes the overall mixture of colors in an image and is used for "color correction" in order to provide a neutral shade of white and make colors appear pleasing and as accurate as possible.

In other words, adjusting the "White Balance" of an image removes unrealistic color casts, so that objects which appear white in person are rendered white on your screen. However these values cannot be accurately adjusted "by eye". Even the best trained eye cannot determine if the values are near 6500K as our eyes cannot accurately detect differences in the luminance of bright images such as white.

The ability of the display to do this all the way from darkest gray to the brightest white is called "Grayscale Tracking", which is just White Balance at multiple levels of image intensity. It has to be purely black or white or a shade of grey in between. This greatly improves your display's ability to not only produce black and white accurately, but every other color in between. If the display can't do this well, then all of the colors will look very unnatural.

In order to properly calibrate your TV’s "White Balance", you need to optimize the red, green and blue scales at each level of brightness along the black/white spectrum (grayscale). However, properly adjusting these values requires using expensive calibration instruments and software. Therefore, unless you are professionally calibrating your TV, you should leave these adjustments alone.

Most Accurate Picture Mode and Color Tone

Most TV "experts" and professional TV calibrators agree that the most accurate picture mode 'out of the box' is the "Movie" mode - that is to say, it is the mode that will bring you closest to a properly calibrated display.

Additionally, according to the "experts", you should also set the "Color Tone" setting to one of the "Warm" settings ("Warm 2" usually being the most accurate). Why? Because it is the setting that will bring the image closest to the recommended D65 television standard.

In order for your TV to adhere to the director's vision, it needs to reproduce white as closely as possible to the ISF recommended D65 (Daylight 6500K) which is similar to ambient daylight at midday (on a cloudy day). D65 is the standard used throughout the film and TV world.

If you have been conditioned to seeing a cooler/bluer, more dynamic picture, the "Movie" mode and a "Warm" Color Tone will appear far too "red" or "yellow" and too dim at first (cooler/bluer colors appear brighter than warmer/redder ones). However give it a few days for your eyes and brain to adjust to the new more accurate settings (trust me, they will). After a few days, if you go back to one of the more "dynamic" modes and a "cooler" Color Tone, you’ll notice that the picture will appear far too bright and too blue.

Now all that said, it does come back to a matter of personal preference. In the end, it's your TV and your eyes, so adjust it the way you want.



Richard
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post #1664 of 2437 Old 02-03-2017, 07:25 PM
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**OFFICIAL** Entry Level 2016 Samsung 4K UHD KU6300/6500/6600 Series TV Thread

Current Samsung Tv's are exhibiting issues with HDBT baluns. It is related to HDMI chip timing from what I understand. This is what may be causing the green hdmi sync issue. Apparently Samsung is aware of the problem.
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post #1665 of 2437 Old 02-04-2017, 06:22 AM
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Help setting up 6290?

Greetings. Could folks advise the best way to setup/connect the following?

Samsung KU6290 (extremely similar to the KU6300)
Marantz 6011 AVR
Various source devices

Right now, I am connected:
Marantz 6011 (HDMI/ARC) out-----> Samsung KU6290 (HDMI/ARC) in
All of my source devices are connected to the AVR via HDMI.

Will movies and videos from the Samsumg smart apps work correctly with this
setup? Is there a better way to do this?

Thanks.
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post #1666 of 2437 Old 02-04-2017, 06:30 AM
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Hey guys, I am picking up my 55' 6300 today at PC Richards for $499 (deal from last week). I am hoping they dont try to swindle me into a 6290 since that TV is now priced at $499 and the 6300 is $699.

That being said... Does anyone have a good calibration setting on this TV? I am going to use RTINGS but figured someone here might have something better. Thanks in advance!
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post #1667 of 2437 Old 02-04-2017, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by sranda03 View Post
Hey guys, I am picking up my 55' 6300 today at PC Richards for $499 (deal from last week). I am hoping they dont try to swindle me into a 6290 since that TV is now priced at $499 and the 6300 is $699.

That being said... Does anyone have a good calibration setting on this TV? I am going to use RTINGS but figured someone here might have something better. Thanks in advance!
Using someone else's calibration settings, in my opinion, doesn't make much sense due to unit to unit variances even within the same model line. This is due to a manufacture using different panels as well as the natural variances that occurs during manufacture. MUCH better idea is to get a calibration disk and do it yourself to YOUR set. It's really very simple to do. Those discs guide you through the whole process.
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post #1668 of 2437 Old 02-04-2017, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by lwien123 View Post
Using someone else's calibration settings, in my opinion, doesn't make much sense due to unit to unit variances even within the same model line. This is due to a manufacture using different panels as well as the natural variances that occurs during manufacture. MUCH better idea is to get a calibration disk and do it yourself to YOUR set. It's really very simple to do. Those discs guide you through the whole process.


Which calibration disk would you recommend? Also, how can I tell which panel version I have? I am assuming CJ05? That's the only thing I can find on the back under version number. I'm hoping its a decent panel or hopefully a Samsung panel.

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post #1669 of 2437 Old 02-04-2017, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by sranda03 View Post
Which calibration disk would you recommend? Also, how can I tell which panel version I have? I am assuming CJ05? That's the only thing I can find on the back under version number. I'm hoping its a decent panel or hopefully a Samsung panel.
I use this one>> http://www.videoessentials.com/produ...hd-basics.html

The CJ05 is not a Samsung Panel but according to Rtings, the Samsung panels are not necessarily the best: http://uk.rtings.com/tv/learn/panel-lottery-samsung
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post #1670 of 2437 Old 02-04-2017, 12:11 PM
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I can't find a thread for my UN50J5200...so I'm asking here. It has a problem with the Smart Hub. When I click on Netflix, etc. it says "Smart Hub is being updated. Please try again later." That never ends....been days now. When I test the Smart Hub Connection it says "Unable to launch Apps. You need to update your TV software. If problem continues contact Samsung. (ERR08007)." It has the 1022 version update and says that's the newest one. How do I do a Factory Reset....all I can think of to resolve this?

Edit: I did the hard factory reset and still no Smart Hub. Any other suggestions?

Last edited by RACHELLE; 02-04-2017 at 12:40 PM.
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post #1671 of 2437 Old 02-04-2017, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by BenW23 View Post
Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone else has come across this same problem.
This is my 2nd 60” KU6290 from Costco. The first one had some black smudges behind the panel. This one I have now is pretty nice, just minor banding but that is expected. The major issue I’m having now started about 3-4 weeks ago. The problem now is upon powering on the tv. This green scrambled pic and stutter appears for less than a second, then resumes showing the regular channel. Upon powering on the tv, it shows whatever is on my HD cable box (Rogers Explorer HD4250). The green scrambled picture appears like its initializing then stabilizing the image of some sort. I have done some google research. Some are saying to disable the 480i/480p signal and just leave the 720p/1080i signal on the HD box. I tried that, same issue.

The HD box is connected to HDMI port 2 on the tv. I have switched out the HDMI cable for a new one, problem still exists. The only remedy that seems to work temporarily. Unplug the tv from the outlet for a few mins then plug back in. That seems to fix that issue.. but it only sticks for temporarily. Till the next time I turn the tv on and same issue occurs. I've also fully reset the HD box.

I should also mention this problem didn’t exist until maybe a day after the 1162 update was pushed to the tv. (The set I returned also didn’t experience this probkem, running 1155 software before) Coincidentally though, my mom for some reason used my old Samsung smart tv remote on this KU6290 set the time when 1162 was pushed. That old remote worked, it’s able to control everything this smart remote does. So I’m not sure if the 1162 update had caused this issue, or because my mom used the old remote on this tv.. Infrared signals?

I also took another HD box of another brand from another room and hooked it up to the tv. Same green screen issue. The HD boxes, respectively do not experience this symptom when connected to another tv in the house. A 55' Smart LED tv from 2013.

I’ve ran out of solutions. I’m still in the 90 day return period at Costco. I’d like to avoid returning since everything else works on this tv. Blurays play fine, my Sony Home theatre in a box works, my HTPC connected to it also works. No random image judder or lines. This green screen issue is minor and only happens upon powering on the tv. It doesn’t bother my parents. But because I’m OCD about technology and it bothers me lol.

I’ve recorded the issue that I am describing.

Thanks for any input that can be provided! (REALLY SORRY FOR THE LONG POST!)

https://youtu.be/m_xG8rJsk_Y
I have kind of the same issue with a 6290 firmware ver1162
hooked up to avr then to tv
only started noticing it after the second to last update

super dirty , super clean , pow
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post #1672 of 2437 Old 02-04-2017, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dragodrago View Post
Current Samsung Tv's are exhibiting issues with HDBT baluns. It is related to HDMI chip timing from what I understand. This is what may be causing the green hdmi sync issue. Apparently Samsung is aware of the problem.
I'm hoping this is true, and Samsung realizes the new issue that arose after the 1162 update. I'm this close to returning my set back to Costco..
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post #1673 of 2437 Old 02-04-2017, 10:41 PM
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I have kind of the same issue with a 6290 firmware ver1162
hooked up to avr then to tv
only started noticing it after the second to last update
Good to know Im not alone in this, and thought my set was faulty. I'm hoping Samsung pushes a new update to fix this issue.
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post #1674 of 2437 Old 02-05-2017, 07:56 AM
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I use this one>> http://www.videoessentials.com/produ...hd-basics.html

The CJ05 is not a Samsung Panel but according to Rtings, the Samsung panels are not necessarily the best: http://uk.rtings.com/tv/learn/panel-lottery-samsung
I will pick up that DVD and calibrate it, thanks! How does it compare to the Disney WOW disk? I was looking for that as well. Is it possible to burn to a USB? I don't have a DVD player in my room so i would have to move my ps4 upstairs which would be a pain.

Also i saw a free tool on youtube for AVS 709 calibration video... Is this basically the same? If so i can just use that i am assuming?

Interesting RTING panel article... However I don't see the panel i have listed ... Do I have to go into the blue settings menu in order to know my exact panel name? I was under the assumption it was the Version Type on the back of the TV like older models?

Samsung UN65JS8500FXZA - Samsung HW-E550 Soundbar - Logitech Harmony 700 Universal Remote.

Last edited by sranda03; 02-05-2017 at 08:23 AM.
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post #1675 of 2437 Old 02-05-2017, 08:46 AM
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Hey everyone,

Just got my new ku6300 40" mounted but am a bit leery because I needed to use 10mm spacers on the back of the bracket, with 30mm screws. I can tell that the screw doesn't go all the way down (I think samsung wants you to have 20-21mm of thread in there). Not sure what to do however since these metric screws are hard to find locally, at least in 35 or 40mm.

Last edited by Astronaut21; 02-05-2017 at 09:31 AM.
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post #1676 of 2437 Old 02-05-2017, 10:24 AM
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Bumping this post


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Originally Posted by 3db View Post
I bought a KU6490 65" model. How does that model fit into the series in this thread. Samsung confuses me when it comes to their naming convention. Is this unit back lit or does it have individual zones like the Vizio?
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post #1677 of 2437 Old 02-05-2017, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by sranda03 View Post
I will pick up that DVD and calibrate it, thanks! How does it compare to the Disney WOW disk? I was looking for that as well. Is it possible to burn to a USB? I don't have a DVD player in my room so i would have to move my ps4 upstairs which would be a pain.

Also i saw a free tool on youtube for AVS 709 calibration video... Is this basically the same? If so i can just use that i am assuming? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKRcpCQJW8M

Interesting RTING panel article... However I don't see the panel i have listed ... Do I have to go into the blue settings menu in order to know my exact panel name? I was under the assumption it was the Version Type on the back of the TV like older models?
Being that I've never used nor seen the Disney WOW disk, I have no idea how it compares. Same goes for the AVS 709 vid.

Regarding burning it to a USB, I don't see any reason why you couldn't.

You currently have the correct panel number.

Last edited by lwien123; 02-05-2017 at 01:13 PM.
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post #1678 of 2437 Old 02-05-2017, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Astronaut21 View Post
Hey everyone,

Just got my new ku6300 40" mounted but am a bit leery because I needed to use 10mm spacers on the back of the bracket, with 30mm screws. I can tell that the screw doesn't go all the way down (I think samsung wants you to have 20-21mm of thread in there). Not sure what to do however since these metric screws are hard to find locally, at least in 35 or 40mm.
I don't know where you came up with the 20-21 mm engagement. The VESA standard specifies the M6 should have 9mm to 10mm engagement, and that the holes might not be deeper than 12mm ... tight tolerances ...

In specifying thread engagement, I've been told that 1.5 diameters in metal will be stronger than the screw.

I'd expect your mounting plate to be between 2mm and 4mm thick?

Generally, the screws are not difficult to cut. 12mm and 16mm are standard lengths.
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post #1679 of 2437 Old 02-05-2017, 12:50 PM
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Bumping this post
Best guess on my part:

1) it's a canadian model number
2) it's a 3 party model number, similar to costco here in the states calling a KU6300 as a KU630D
3) it appears to be the curved version of the 6300 called the KU6500 here in the states
4) the backlight is what samsung calls Slim FLED (Direct)

So it's not edge lit, the led's are behind the lcd panel but I don't think it has zones or local dimming.

Not sure on that because Samsung is the only one that seems to use Slim FLED (Direct) in their specs.

You probably are in the right thread since this one is for the 6300/6500/6600 series.
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post #1680 of 2437 Old 02-05-2017, 03:16 PM
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I don't know where you came up with the 20-21 mm engagement.
It says so right in the manual http://imgur.com/a/jXP9e. I'm a bit lost on your post, I'm using M8 screws.

To reiterate my question, I have 30mm screws with 10mm spacers and maybe 2mm of plate, leaving me with around 17-18mm in the hole, but the manual seems to want 20-21mm-- do I need to get a 35mm screw to fill it all the way or am I being paranoid? It took only a few turns to fully tighten.

Last edited by Astronaut21; 02-05-2017 at 04:13 PM.
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