OFFICIAL Sony XBR-65Z9D Owner's Thread [no price talk please] - Page 738 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #22111 of 22169 Old 11-26-2019, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mutelight View Post
Very happy that worked out for you.

That said, it is an edge case and atypical and I would find out why your AVR isn't reliably passing the signals it should because something is awry.
Im open to ideas! Im kind of blaming the X700. I can swap the Shield and the X700, keep same ports, same cables and problem follows X700. The X700 worked with everything set to enhanced until the FW update. Ive rebooted, restored defaults all the normal stuff. No dice. Im just happy I have a workaround with almost no downside.

Earc is supposed to have better audio sync and it seems to for me. One minor gripe I had with the Z9D is the audio was just a bit off. Most noticeable with OTA. If I rebooted it, it would get better. The 950G seems much better, right in sync. Cant say with any certainty if the eARC helped or something else like faster SoC.

The other use case would be if someone prefers that the TV be the AV switching device VS the AVR. Id rather have the AVR do it, but good to have options.
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post #22112 of 22169 Old 11-26-2019, 09:34 PM
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Put me on the list of those who have never had such issues. Samsung with a Denon, Samsung with Sony Soundbar, Vizio with Denon, TCL with Denon. Z9D with Denon, 950G with Denon (can you tell I like Denon?) No CEC issues. No ARC issues. No random power on issues. No TV speaker/sound system switching issues. Last time I used an optical or coax. for audio was 2011.

Ive been enjoying Atmos over DD+ from the native apps which has been cool. With the 950G and eARC, I can now even have full bitrate audio over eARC.
Well my CEC issues is with it changing inputs and powering stuff on/off when it shouldn't. I use Pronto TSU9400 universal remotes for my systems and they are programmed to control all of my devices and I really couldn't deal with CEC trying to take control. I use all HDMI as well with only a couple of exceptions for a few of my audio sources that are only analog. I guess you are simply one of the lucky ones (and I'm not). But to be honest I really don't need or miss ARC or CEC.

1) JVC DLA-NX7 & Sony 65Z9D, Yamaha CX-A5200, Outlaw Audio 7900 & 7700, UDP-203, DP-UB9000, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
2) Sony 75Z9D, Yamaha RX-A3080, 2xOutlaw Audio 2200s, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
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post #22113 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 04:29 AM
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Put me on the list of those who have never had such issues. Samsung with a Denon, Samsung with Sony Soundbar, Vizio with Denon, TCL with Denon. Z9D with Denon, 950G with Denon (can you tell I like Denon?) No CEC issues. No ARC issues. No random power on issues. No TV speaker/sound system switching issues. Last time I used an optical or coax. for audio was 2011.

Ive been enjoying Atmos over DD+ from the native apps which has been cool. With the 950G and eARC, I can now even have full bitrate audio over eARC.
I like to know how you connect the TV to the AVR then please as I am not familiar with this. At the moment I am using Tv ARC to AVR ARC, however can I connect one of the HDMI from the TV to AVR's HDMI and get the TV sound from the AVR? thank you. Sorry if this is a dumb question
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post #22114 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 07:12 AM
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Well my CEC issues is with it changing inputs and powering stuff on/off when it shouldn't. I use Pronto TSU9400 universal remotes for my systems and they are programmed to control all of my devices and I really couldn't deal with CEC trying to take control. I use all HDMI as well with only a couple of exceptions for a few of my audio sources that are only analog. I guess you are simply one of the lucky ones (and I'm not). But to be honest I really don't need or miss ARC or CEC.
I dont consider myself lucky. Ive had countless TV/AVR/BD/Streaming device combinations throughout many years now. Never had any issue getting everything to work. Too many different devices over too long a period to be lucky. I always just use the TV remote for everything. No need for extra remotes. I never used Pronto but did use Harmony before CEC came around. I had far more issues with that then I ever had with CEC. I dont miss that at all.

One thing I think that has made me successful in this is I always set it up as the TV being the controlling device. Nothing is allowed to turn on the TV. The TV turns on other devices. Also set to when the TV is turned off, all other devices are turned off with it. The TV remote and the TV control everything, not the other way around.

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post #22115 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Indi View Post
I like to know how you connect the TV to the AVR then please as I am not familiar with this. At the moment I am using Tv ARC to AVR ARC, however can I connect one of the HDMI from the TV to AVR's HDMI and get the TV sound from the AVR? thank you. Sorry if this is a dumb question
Not sure what you are asking. TV to AVR is the ARC ports which sends TV sound to AVR which you already have.
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post #22116 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 09:45 AM
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I dont consider myself lucky. Ive had countless TV/AVR/BD/Streaming device combinations throughout many years now. Never had any issue getting everything to work. Too many different devices over too long a period to be lucky. I always just use the TV remote for everything. No need for extra remotes. I never used Pronto but did use Harmony before CEC came around. I had far more issues with that then I ever had with CEC. I dont miss that at all.

One thing I think that has made me successful in this is I always set it up as the TV being the controlling device. Nothing is allowed to turn on the TV. The TV turns on other devices. Also set to when the TV is turned off, all other devices are turned off with it. The TV remote and the TV control everything, not the other way around.
Perhaps those of us with CEC problems are simply unlucky then? Since I only use my TVs simply monitors (never use any of their internal apps...too bad you can't buy one w/o them) I don't need ARC in any case. Glad it works for you.

Also, I don't always turn my TV on. I listen to music more often than I watch video.

Forgot to add, the Pronto remotes are much more flexible than the Harmony remotes. The problem with Prontos is that 1) they can require significantly more effort to program than Harmony; and 2) Philips stopped selling them almost 10 years ago now. I've been using various Pronto remotes every since they first came out (maybe 25 years ago?) and consequently have had a lot of experience programming them so that isn't really an issue for me.

1) JVC DLA-NX7 & Sony 65Z9D, Yamaha CX-A5200, Outlaw Audio 7900 & 7700, UDP-203, DP-UB9000, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
2) Sony 75Z9D, Yamaha RX-A3080, 2xOutlaw Audio 2200s, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra

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post #22117 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 10:07 AM
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Perhaps those of us with CEC problems are simply unlucky then? Since I only use my TVs simply monitors (never use any of their internal apps...too bad you can't buy one w/o them) I don't need ARC in any case. Glad it works for you.

Also, I don't always turn my TV on. I listen to music more often than I watch video.

Forgot to add, the Pronto remotes are much more flexible than the Harmony remotes. The problem with Prontos is that 1) they can require significantly more effort to program than Harmony; and 2) Philips stopped selling them almost 10 years ago now. I've been using various Pronto remotes every since they first came out (maybe 25 years ago?) and consequently have had a lot of experience programming them so that isn't really an issue for me.
I think many CEC problems can be corrected. The vast majority of the time on AVS the answer to a CEC problem is "turn it off Dont use it" rather than troubleshooting and often just a setting change. Rarely do people even post or ask what their CEC settings are.

Not saying that problems dont exist. They do, but when it is dismissed as a bad tech that people shouldn't use, I dont agree. Another Point is most people only post when they have a problem (with anything). Peopel without issues are not often posing to say so. Manufactures put different features and levels of effort as well. As an example, I had a Vizio P series for about a month. CEC worked, no problems but as in Vizio fashion only had the most basic barebones feature set. Sony on the other hand provides a much more robust set of features.

I also listen to music much more than watch TV. TV is not on for that. For AVR control of volume and such I will use the iphone app. God forbid I have to get up and twist the volume knob!!

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post #22118 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 10:26 AM
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I also listen to music much more than watch TV. TV is not on for that. For AVR control of volume and such I will use the iphone app. God forbid I have to get up and twist the volume knob!!
Hahaha, now you have touched on another subject that I'm sure we don't agree on.

I virtually despise cell (aka, smart?) phones. I pretty much use mine only for placing and receiving calls, and by far, most of the calls I receive on mine are either SPAM or SCAM. Using one to control any of my seven AV systems would be out of the question.

Glad to hear that CEC works for some people. For me it's not worth the trouble to try to figure out how to make it work. Also, I have a number of devices that aren't HDMI attached (and don't get me started on HDMI...) so it wouldn't work for them anyway.

1) JVC DLA-NX7 & Sony 65Z9D, Yamaha CX-A5200, Outlaw Audio 7900 & 7700, UDP-203, DP-UB9000, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
2) Sony 75Z9D, Yamaha RX-A3080, 2xOutlaw Audio 2200s, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
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post #22119 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 10:36 AM
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While we are on the subject, The whole history of passing video though the AVR is one I struggled with for awhile. I recall the 1st AVR I got that had Component and s-video inputs. "why in the world would I want to or need to run video through my AVR?" I didnt. Then I got my 1st TV and AVR with HDMI. "Wow, this is nice" " One cable for video and audio instead of the bundle of snakes Ive been using for so long!" At this point, the AVR became a part of the video equation.

There are still people who are opposed to the audio device being the video switching device. Now with eARC, you could again have the TV take that task and have the audio device be just the audio device

Technology evolves but is hard to stay on top of.


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Hahaha, now you have touched on another subject that I'm sure we don't agree on.

I virtually despise cell (aka, smart?) phones. I pretty much use mine only for placing and receiving calls, and by far, most of the calls I receive on mine are either SPAM or SCAM. Using one to control any of my seven AV systems would be out of the question.

Glad to hear that CEC works for some people. For me it's not worth the trouble to try to figure out how to make it work. Also, I have a number of devices that aren't HDMI attached (and don't get me started on HDMI...) so it wouldn't work for them anyway.
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post #22120 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 10:40 AM
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I think many CEC problems can be corrected. The vast majority of the time on AVS the answer to a CEC problem is "turn it off Dont use it" rather than troubleshooting and often just a setting change. Rarely do people even post or ask what their CEC settings are.

Not saying that problems dont exist. They do, but when it is dismissed as a bad tech that people shouldn't use, I dont agree. Another Point is most people only post when they have a problem (with anything). Peopel without issues are not often posing to say so. Manufactures put different features and levels of effort as well. As an example, I had a Vizio P series for about a month. CEC worked, no problems but as in Vizio fashion only had the most basic barebones feature set. Sony on the other hand provides a much more robust set of features.

I also listen to music much more than watch TV. TV is not on for that. For AVR control of volume and such I will use the iphone app. God forbid I have to get up and twist the volume knob!!
Amen. I always use it and don't have any trouble. It's annoying when I see on forums people say "turn it off!".
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post #22121 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 10:54 AM
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While we are on the subject, The whole history of passing video though the AVR is one I struggled with for awhile. I recall the 1st AVR I got that had Component and s-video inputs. "why in the world would I want to or need to run video through my AVR?" I didnt. Then I got my 1st TV and AVR with HDMI. "Wow, this is nice" " One cable for video and audio instead of the bundle of snakes Ive been using for so long!" At this point, the AVR became a part of the video equation.

There are still people who are opposed to the audio device being the video switching device. Now with eARC, you could again have the TV take that task and have the audio device be just the audio device

Technology evolves but is hard to stay on top of.
Well, when you have three UHD blu-ray players, a DVD player, a Roku Ultra, two SACD players, and a turntable in a system as well as both a TV and a projector, it seems to me that it only makes sense to have a central switch point for all of the source devices. Now that is my main system, buy my other systems also have several source devices and switching through their AVR really simplifies things for me.

1) JVC DLA-NX7 & Sony 65Z9D, Yamaha CX-A5200, Outlaw Audio 7900 & 7700, UDP-203, DP-UB9000, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
2) Sony 75Z9D, Yamaha RX-A3080, 2xOutlaw Audio 2200s, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
3) Sony 75X940E, Yamaha RX-A2080, UDP-203, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
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post #22122 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 11:04 AM
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Well, when you have three UHD blu-ray players, a DVD player, a Roku Ultra, two SACD players, and a turntable in a system as well as both a TV and a projector, it seems to me that it only makes sense to have a central switch point for all of the source devices. Now that is my main system, buy my other systems also have several source devices and switching through their AVR really simplifies things for me.
You may have misunderstood my post. I do the same and have for years.
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post #22123 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 11:06 AM
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You may have misunderstood my post. I do the same and have for years.
Hmm, maybe I wasn't clear...I was trying to agree with you!

1) JVC DLA-NX7 & Sony 65Z9D, Yamaha CX-A5200, Outlaw Audio 7900 & 7700, UDP-203, DP-UB9000, UBP-X800M2, Roku Ultra
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post #22124 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 11:10 AM
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Hmm, maybe I wasn't clear...I was trying to agree with you!
HAHA. DOH! Happy Thanksgiving!
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post #22125 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 01:14 PM
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I have a special use case where eARC kind of saved the day, This is a bit long..

When I connect my Sony X700 the normal way......BD->Denon->Sony TV, the signal goes dead unless I turn off HDMI enhanced which means no HDR. I tried everything. Im using monoprice certified HDMI cables. I also have an NV Shield with same config, and no issues. This happened after the X700 FW update, When update was done, screen went black and I cannot get it to work in enhanced mode.

Out of desperation I connected it X700->Sony TV->Denon via eARC using same cables. Problem solved! I have no idea why but it works. I get full bitrate audio same as I would the normal way. The only real downside is I cant bring up Denon overlay menu since its an ARC connection but at least its a solution.
Turning off HDMI enhanced on the Sony has 0 impact on HDR. It only effects 4k 60 fps...Hi end PC gaming. Has 0 impact on watching movies or streaming. I think there might be 1 or 2 4k blu ray discs that are 60fps...You don't even have to plug your 4k player into HDMI 2 or 3 to get full HDR.

Sony 75xZ9D connected to Panasonic UB820 and Nakamichi Shockwafe 7.1 Pro Atmos
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post #22126 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 01:28 PM
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Turning off HDMI enhanced on the Sony has 0 impact on HDR. It only effects 4k 60 fps...Hi end PC gaming. Has 0 impact on watching movies or streaming. I think there might be 1 or 2 4k blu ray discs that are 60fps...You don't even have to plug your 4k player into HDMI 2 or 3 to get full HDR.
You know, thats what I thought too. When I changed the TV to Standard, the X-700 worked (just was testing to see if I had a menu screen) but the Shield would no longer do HDR. I will test this all out again over the weekend. I would rather the BD be connected to the AVR. Thanks for the info and hope you and the family have a great Thanksgiving!
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post #22127 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 02:29 PM
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Well this is interesting. The Android app Disney plus seems to briefly output 5.1 audio using the optical. Once the picture shows on the screen it then switches to 2 channel pcm. I could only get it to stay on 5.1 audio for a couple seconds with various titles. I tried a different app. Plex exhibited the same behavior. Netflix would output 5.1 the entire time. Does anyone know what's going on?

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Same thing happening to me with the audio on Disney+ using optical out,once the video portion starts playing the app makes it output PCM stereo. Uninstalling and rebooting doesn't help.
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post #22128 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 03:34 PM
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I like to know how you connect the TV to the AVR then please as I am not familiar with this. At the moment I am using Tv ARC to AVR ARC, however can I connect one of the HDMI from the TV to AVR's HDMI and get the TV sound from the AVR? thank you. Sorry if this is a dumb question
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Not sure what you are asking. TV to AVR is the ARC ports which sends TV sound to AVR which you already have.

To further respond to your question (as I understand it), the HDMI connectors on your TV are inputs that receive signals from external devices. However, any HDMI connector on the TV that is labelled "ARC" is also capable of sending out the TV's audio to an external device (e.g., AVR or sound bar) if also connected to an ARC port on that device. ARC stands for "audio return channel" and it essentially establishes a two-way street over a single cable. In order to operate, the ARC function must also be enabled in both devices and the two must sync with each other. This latter operation is sometimes iffy--especially between equipment from other than the same manufacturer--and many users (myself included) find it is not worth the hassle in most cases.
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Living Room: Sony XBR-65Z9D; Oppo UDP-203; Nvidia Shield TV; Roku Ultra; Denon AVR-X8500H (9.1.4/13.1); Polk Audio RTiA7 (Fl/r), CSiA6 (C), RTiA5 (Sl/r & FW), OWM5 (SB), 80F/X-RT (FH, RH); SVS SB-2000 (SW)
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post #22129 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 08:02 PM
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75" is beautiful!

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All three of my TVs start up and they like to do a dance where I get a notification that says switching to external, then to internal, then eventually it goes back to external. They are all connected to different model AVRs and a pre-pro. I have seen this behavior since launch. The most annoying is when they decide they want to play audio through the internal and external simultaneously.
Our 65" did that song and dance and now the 75" does as well. It's extremely annoying as our old Panasonic ST60 used to just power on, it had manual internal speaker disable setting. Wish I could 100% disable the internal speakers on the z9d. But after changing to UHD certified HDMI cable from Monoprice we now have functioning ARC for the internal streaming apps on the 75." Hooray! Though I can't see where the volume is because the AVR OSD doesn't work with ARC. 4k Netflix has been a function we've missed. They need to introduce 4k streaming to browsers. But I imagine we are in the minority in that we do all of our video viewing off a dedicated HTPC running through the AVR. But I digress...

Update on the 65" debacle and the 75" switch, and some thoughts on comparing the two. Best Buy has been great after a little prodding and speaking to a store GM outlaying the entire situation and all the headache it's been. Got fortunate as he just happened to be the one to answer Magnolia's phone when I called. Sony has been terrible. Through the entire process. If a competitor made a set that competed in PQ with the Z9D we would have bought it just to be rid of Sony. They still refuse to refund and junk out the TV. They offered a Z9F as a replacement and we had to pay an extra $1000 for the 65" or $3000 for the 75" if we wanted to go that way. Or... they could send someone out to attempt to repair the 65" Z9D for a SIXTH time. This was only after they had me play the middle man between Geek Squad and them getting repair orders and info to them. So, we elected to let the factory warranty expire and exercise the Magnolia service warranty for a refund. We had the TV for 11 months and it was down for 4 months total of that time. Actually, I'm still here looking at it in its box so technically it's going on 5 months out of 12. So enter the "hero" of the story, if there is one. Our Magnolia rep looked around his region and found the single new 75" Z9D set that he snagged from another order 700 miles away. That was awesome, but they missed 4 deliveries on getting the set to the store and it ended up taking 2 weeks total. I would have been happy if they had told me 2 weeks in the beginning but we definitely got irritated with them missing 4 delivery dates. There were varying reasons for this but it's not really important as all were BB's fault.

So, finally 11/19 the rep tells us it is in and they can deliver it in a day or so. "No thanks, I'll pick it up personally in a few hours." So, get there, pay the remainder for the set (still think they could/should have discounted it further, but @ $3000 and being the only set, they had us by the short hairs), and he goes to get it off the pallet. It comes out and LOL is that box HUGE! I'm 6'8" and standing on it's side, it's taller than I am. I impressed him that we could load it into a 5 series BMW wagon (though I did have to call my BiL to drive the car home for me as the seat was moved forward so I couldn't even get in) which was interesting. Understandably, he was very doubtful. Get the TV home and setup with the wife around midnight. Relief sweeps over us and the withdrawal sickness begins to ebb away.

Initial impressions: we are more impressed with the 75" than the 65." We are not done tuning the settings on the set yet, but it's looking better than the 65" did PQ wise. We're weird and would still like a little more SOE and less cinematic grain to be possible... but I'm definitely sure we're in the minority there. If we crank the motion settings we can get it really nice, but the SoC can't keep up I guess and it gets choppy every so often on scenes with heavy panning. The local dimming definitely seems improved as I notice far less blooming and less motion blur (though it's still there for sure) on the 75" than the previous set. Sports is much better on the 75" set, even with some Youtube TV networks only providing a 720p signal. I'll have more impressions as we dial it in but the wife likes the 75" PQ much more than the 65"... and not just because it's bigger. Will report back in a few more weeks with how we are getting on with it and more impressions. We have not gotten the 3D to work on it yet, but I'm sure I need to RTFM and have it in a certain mode for it to detect the signal.

Sorry for the long post...
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post #22130 of 22169 Old 11-27-2019, 11:21 PM
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Our 65" did that song and dance and now the 75" does as well. It's extremely annoying as our old Panasonic ST60 used to just power on, it had manual internal speaker disable setting. Wish I could 100% disable the internal speakers on the z9d. But after changing to UHD certified HDMI cable from Monoprice we now have functioning ARC for the internal streaming apps on the 75." Hooray! Though I can't see where the volume is because the AVR OSD doesn't work with ARC. 4k Netflix has been a function we've missed. They need to introduce 4k streaming to browsers. But I imagine we are in the minority in that we do all of our video viewing off a dedicated HTPC running through the AVR. But I digress...

Update on the 65" debacle and the 75" switch, and some thoughts on comparing the two. Best Buy has been great after a little prodding and speaking to a store GM outlaying the entire situation and all the headache it's been. Got fortunate as he just happened to be the one to answer Magnolia's phone when I called. Sony has been terrible. Through the entire process. If a competitor made a set that competed in PQ with the Z9D we would have bought it just to be rid of Sony. They still refuse to refund and junk out the TV. They offered a Z9F as a replacement and we had to pay an extra $1000 for the 65" or $3000 for the 75" if we wanted to go that way. Or... they could send someone out to attempt to repair the 65" Z9D for a SIXTH time. This was only after they had me play the middle man between Geek Squad and them getting repair orders and info to them. So, we elected to let the factory warranty expire and exercise the Magnolia service warranty for a refund. We had the TV for 11 months and it was down for 4 months total of that time. Actually, I'm still here looking at it in its box so technically it's going on 5 months out of 12. So enter the "hero" of the story, if there is one. Our Magnolia rep looked around his region and found the single new 75" Z9D set that he snagged from another order 700 miles away. That was awesome, but they missed 4 deliveries on getting the set to the store and it ended up taking 2 weeks total. I would have been happy if they had told me 2 weeks in the beginning but we definitely got irritated with them missing 4 delivery dates. There were varying reasons for this but it's not really important as all were BB's fault.

So, finally 11/19 the rep tells us it is in and they can deliver it in a day or so. "No thanks, I'll pick it up personally in a few hours." So, get there, pay the remainder for the set (still think they could/should have discounted it further, but @ $3000 and being the only set, they had us by the short hairs), and he goes to get it off the pallet. It comes out and LOL is that box HUGE! I'm 6'8" and standing on it's side, it's taller than I am. I impressed him that we could load it into a 5 series BMW wagon (though I did have to call my BiL to drive the car home for me as the seat was moved forward so I couldn't even get in) which was interesting. Understandably, he was very doubtful. Get the TV home and setup with the wife around midnight. Relief sweeps over us and the withdrawal sickness begins to ebb away.

Initial impressions: we are more impressed with the 75" than the 65." We are not done tuning the settings on the set yet, but it's looking better than the 65" did PQ wise. We're weird and would still like a little more SOE and less cinematic grain to be possible... but I'm definitely sure we're in the minority there. If we crank the motion settings we can get it really nice, but the SoC can't keep up I guess and it gets choppy every so often on scenes with heavy panning. The local dimming definitely seems improved as I notice far less blooming and less motion blur (though it's still there for sure) on the 75" than the previous set. Sports is much better on the 75" set, even with some Youtube TV networks only providing a 720p signal. I'll have more impressions as we dial it in but the wife likes the 75" PQ much more than the 65"... and not just because it's bigger. Will report back in a few more weeks with how we are getting on with it and more impressions. We have not gotten the 3D to work on it yet, but I'm sure I need to RTFM and have it in a certain mode for it to detect the signal.

Sorry for the long post...
So motion...There is a way to get EXACTLY what you are looking for. Set motionflow to "Standard" and set Cinemotion to low or off. I set it to off for movies and set it to low for tv. Very smooth, 0 blur, 0 motion artifacts. If you are a 3d fan these settings eliminate the active 3d flicker and ghosting. The standard motionflow setting makes 3d look like passive 3d instead of active 3d on the 75 z9d. If you search my name on YouTube you can find a recent video I posted with my picture settings. I've never had my set calibrated and I like motion to be just a tad on the smooth side without SOE unnatural motion like you get on a Samsung and a little extra pop with color and highlights. If you try them and dont like them you can always reset the picture settings. I am very sensitive to motion blur, stutter, ect and I find the Standard setting with cinemotion low or off looks fantastic.

Sony 75xZ9D connected to Panasonic UB820 and Nakamichi Shockwafe 7.1 Pro Atmos
Sony 55x900e
Sony 55xA1E
Sony 75x940e (Returned :-( bad motion blur)
Sony 75x900e, Sony 75x940d, Sony 55x930d, 55x810c, Sony 55x850c (All retired)
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post #22131 of 22169 Old 11-28-2019, 08:38 AM
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I would find out why your AVR isn't reliably passing the signals it should because something is awry.
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Turning off HDMI enhanced on the Sony has 0 impact on HDR.
Update for you two. Fixed it this morning! Set the Sony HDMI to Standard and all is well. BD and Shield connected to AVR and single HDMI to TV. Everything works including HDR. Not sure what issue was before. User error undoubtedly. This was the only little issue to correct on the new setup and now all is working well. All set for all the Black Friday movies I ordered
Thanks both for steering me in the right direction.
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post #22132 of 22169 Old 11-28-2019, 08:51 AM
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Update for you two. Fixed it this morning! Set the Sony HDMI to Standard and all is well. BD and Shield connected to AVR and single HDMI to TV. Everything works including HDR. Not sure what issue was before. User error undoubtedly. This was the only little issue to correct on the new setup and now all is working well. All set for all the Black Friday movies I ordered
Thanks both for steering me in the right direction.
I picked up a new Shield Pro last night and am pretty impressed. Vudu is nice and vibrant and Atmos works great. Only Disney + is not doing Atmos but I am pretty sure they are addressing that in a firmware update soon. Vudu HDR looks WAY better on the Shield than it does on the Xbox.

Sony 75xZ9D connected to Panasonic UB820 and Nakamichi Shockwafe 7.1 Pro Atmos
Sony 55x900e
Sony 55xA1E
Sony 75x940e (Returned :-( bad motion blur)
Sony 75x900e, Sony 75x940d, Sony 55x930d, 55x810c, Sony 55x850c (All retired)
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post #22133 of 22169 Old 11-28-2019, 09:08 AM
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So motion...There is a way to get EXACTLY what you are looking for. Set motionflow to "Standard" and set Cinemotion to low or off. I set it to off for movies and set it to low for tv. Very smooth, 0 blur, 0 motion artifacts. If you are a 3d fan these settings eliminate the active 3d flicker and ghosting. The standard motionflow setting makes 3d look like passive 3d instead of active 3d on the 75 z9d. If you search my name on YouTube you can find a recent video I posted with my picture settings. I've never had my set calibrated and I like motion to be just a tad on the smooth side without SOE unnatural motion like you get on a Samsung and a little extra pop with color and highlights. If you try them and dont like them you can always reset the picture settings. I am very sensitive to motion blur, stutter, ect and I find the Standard setting with cinemotion low or off looks fantastic.

Thanks joshua. I spent some time last night/this morning messing with it after the family went to bed. We do most of our movie/TV show watching through Kodi on the HTPC and I figured out what the key to smoother motion was. Had to sync the playback to display at the native refresh rate of the content. I was trying to play everything at 4k 60 and trying to get the TV to smooth out the differences. Never got that to work 100%. After changing the playback to match the content (1080p 24 in most cases) it looks amazing. Showed the wife this morning and she was even more blown away.

As for the 3D... going to have to try a few 3D movies on disc. We used to watch 3D through Kodi as well (mostly documentaries for the kids) but I can not find a way to force the Sony into 3D mode. It wants to detect a signal before it will enable the 3D settings and I can't figure out how to get Kodi to pass the signal through the AVR and to the Sony. This seems to be a known issue with Bravia TV's as I have found many posts regarding it on the Kodi forums and Sony support forums. Will keep messing with this but I have a feeling I will need to load the content onto a thumbdrive and play it through the native Sony player on the TV.


Happy Thanksgiving all!
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post #22134 of 22169 Old 11-28-2019, 10:06 AM
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I picked up a new Shield Pro last night and am pretty impressed. Vudu is nice and vibrant and Atmos works great. Only Disney + is not doing Atmos but I am pretty sure they are addressing that in a firmware update soon. Vudu HDR looks WAY better on the Shield than it does on the Xbox.
The Shields are really nice. The UI is a "familiar face" when you have a Sony TV too!
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Random scratches on 65inch z9d?

Hi guys,
I just noticed these random dust-like scratches. Anyone know what this is? I'm not sure how this happened, as no one ever gets near my tv. Click image for larger version

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post #22136 of 22169 Old 12-01-2019, 09:55 PM
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Thanks joshua. I spent some time last night/this morning messing with it after the family went to bed. We do most of our movie/TV show watching through Kodi on the HTPC and I figured out what the key to smoother motion was. Had to sync the playback to display at the native refresh rate of the content. I was trying to play everything at 4k 60 and trying to get the TV to smooth out the differences. Never got that to work 100%. After changing the playback to match the content (1080p 24 in most cases) it looks amazing. Showed the wife this morning and she was even more blown away.

As for the 3D... going to have to try a few 3D movies on disc. We used to watch 3D through Kodi as well (mostly documentaries for the kids) but I can not find a way to force the Sony into 3D mode. It wants to detect a signal before it will enable the 3D settings and I can't figure out how to get Kodi to pass the signal through the AVR and to the Sony. This seems to be a known issue with Bravia TV's as I have found many posts regarding it on the Kodi forums and Sony support forums. Will keep messing with this but I have a feeling I will need to load the content onto a thumbdrive and play it through the native Sony player on the TV.


Happy Thanksgiving all!
Get a harmony remote. There is a 3D button to change the 3D mode.
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post #22137 of 22169 Old 12-02-2019, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
...but I can not find a way to force the Sony into 3D mode. It wants to detect a signal before it will enable the 3D settings and I can't figure out how to get Kodi to pass the signal through the AVR and to the Sony. This seems to be a known issue with Bravia TV's as I have found many posts regarding it on the Kodi forums and Sony support forums.
Get a harmony remote. There is a 3D button to change the 3D mode.
You don’t need one!
That switch is also available in action menu 3D section.
Incoming 3D signal from HDMI switches the Bravia to 3D mode automatically. E.g. when playing a 3D bluray.
The trick with Sony 4K telly is, that you must send it a 1080p signal.
If it receives 4K (even upscaled), 3D mode remains disabled. Also for the menu and remote button.
So its not the button, its the incoming signal format.
Learned it from problems in playing back SBS and OU 3D clips from my aTV 4K. They all used to play fine with aTV 4.
So for 3D, I manually need to switch my aTV into 1080p output first.
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post #22138 of 22169 Old 12-02-2019, 01:52 PM
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You don’t need one!
That switch is also available in action menu 3D section.
Incoming 3D signal from HDMI switches the Bravia to 3D mode automatically. E.g. when playing a 3D bluray.
The trick with Sony 4K telly is, that you must send it a 1080p signal.
If it receives 4K (even upscaled), 3D mode remains disabled. Also for the menu and remote button.
So its not the button, its the incoming signal format.
Learned it from problems in playing back SBS and OU 3D clips from my aTV 4K. They all used to play fine with aTV 4.
So for 3D, I manually need to switch my aTV into 1080p output first.
I've gotten my Z9D to force 3D on an incoming 1440p signal a few times. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.

But when it does, it looks glorious playing modern games on 1440p 3D via Reshade. Dark Souls looks absolutely amazing in 3D.
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post #22139 of 22169 Old 12-02-2019, 02:19 PM
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I picked up a new Shield Pro last night and am pretty impressed. Vudu is nice and vibrant and Atmos works great. Only Disney + is not doing Atmos but I am pretty sure they are addressing that in a firmware update soon. Vudu HDR looks WAY better on the Shield than it does on the Xbox.
How does the Shield apps (Vudu, Netflix, etc) in HDR/Dolby Vision compare to the internal apps?
I noticed on the x700 when comparing vudu and netflix dolby vision seemed dimmer or less vibrant so i've always stuck with the internal apps for those.
But netflix still has no Atmos on our TV app, so wondering how the shield looks, don't wanna sacrifice the picture for sound, looking for the best of both worlds!

EYES: Sony 75z9d
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post #22140 of 22169 Old 12-03-2019, 08:06 AM
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How does the Shield apps (Vudu, Netflix, etc) in HDR/Dolby Vision compare to the internal apps?
I noticed on the x700 when comparing vudu and netflix dolby vision seemed dimmer or less vibrant so i've always stuck with the internal apps for those.
But netflix still has no Atmos on our TV app, so wondering how the shield looks, don't wanna sacrifice the picture for sound, looking for the best of both worlds!
I think the internal apps are the brightest. Vudu on the Xbox looked really dull. It looks much better on the Shield in my opinion. However I don't know that the shield has that eye searing brightness of the internal apps. I'll have to do some more comparison.

Sony 75xZ9D connected to Panasonic UB820 and Nakamichi Shockwafe 7.1 Pro Atmos
Sony 55x900e
Sony 55xA1E
Sony 75x940e (Returned :-( bad motion blur)
Sony 75x900e, Sony 75x940d, Sony 55x930d, 55x810c, Sony 55x850c (All retired)
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