2017 Sony XBR 900E owners thread (No Price Talk) - Page 653 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #19561 of 19590 Old 05-07-2020, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by groove93 View Post
With HDMI Arc, you get Dolby Digital Plus through apps such as Netflix, Amazon, and Disney Plus.
Have you actually tested those apps with our TV giving DD+ ?

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post #19562 of 19590 Old 05-07-2020, 08:16 PM
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I


Netflix, Amazon Prime - Dolby Digital Plus
Vudu - Dolby Atmos



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post #19563 of 19590 Old 05-07-2020, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by groove93 View Post
I
Netflix, Amazon Prime - Dolby Digital Plus
Vudu - Dolby Atmos
Thanks!
What is the version of firmware of your TV ?

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post #19564 of 19590 Old 05-07-2020, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by NikosD View Post
Thanks!
What is the version of firmware of your TV ?
Android 8.0.0, but that shouldn't matter because Dolby Digital Plus was working back in 2017.

Vudu updated this TV with Atmos capabilities around 2018. (Dolby Digital Plus variant of Atmos, not the Lossless Dolby TrueHD Variant which cannot be passed via ARC).

Just be sure your AVR is compatible, and check that Audio Return or a similar feature is enabled on this device.

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post #19565 of 19590 Old 05-07-2020, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by groove93 View Post
Android 8.0.0, but that shouldn't matter because Dolby Digital Plus was working back in 2017.



Vudu updated this TV with Atmos capabilities around 2018. (Dolby Digital Plus variant of Atmos, not the Lossless Dolby TrueHD Variant which cannot be passed via ARC).



Just be sure your AVR is compatible, and check for that Audio Return or a similar feature is enabled on this device.
I have an older AVR not capable of ARC, but I wouldn't care that much.
Because besides seeing the label on AVR, the actual bitrate of DD+ using ARC should be very close to DD or the same, due to ARC restrictions.

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post #19566 of 19590 Old 05-07-2020, 08:39 PM
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The compression methods of Dolby Digital Plus are an improvement over the standard Dolby Digital, thus allowing for this codec to be capable of handling up to 15 discrete channels of audio. The Lossy variant of Dolby Atmos is also supported with apps such as Netflix, Amazon Prime, and Vudu, if both the hardware and software are supported.

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post #19567 of 19590 Old 05-07-2020, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by groove93 View Post
The compression methods of Dolby Digital Plus are an improvement over the standard Dolby Digital, thus allowing for this codec to be capable of handling up to 15 discrete channels of audio. The Lossy variant of Dolby Atmos is also supported with apps such as Netflix, Amazon Prime, and Vudu, if both the hardware and software are supported.
No, I'm not talking about DD+ and Dolby Atmos just as I wasn't talking about HDMI in my previous posts.

I'm talking about HDMI ARC and the bitrate restrictions that ARC has, not DD+ or Dolby Atmos.

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post #19568 of 19590 Old 05-07-2020, 10:54 PM
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The point is this tv is fully capable of handling DD+ and Atmos using various apps via HDMI.


I thought that was the question at hand. If not, then I'm out.

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post #19569 of 19590 Old 05-07-2020, 11:26 PM
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The point is this tv is fully capable of handling DD+ and Atmos using various apps via HDMI.

I thought that was the question at hand. If not, then I'm out.
You are definitely IN, because you proved with your pictures that this TV using HDMI ARC and popular apps, can pass-through DD+ and the lossy part of Dolby Atmos to a suitable AVR, something that Optical can't do.

Although DD+ and Dolby Atmos are losing their strength going through ARC with such low bitrate and I really can't understand the meaning of this, but this is another issue.

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post #19570 of 19590 Old 05-08-2020, 04:23 AM
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I have multichannel 5.1 DD using the TV with my AVR connected with optical.
So do I. I get multichannel 5.1 DD with Amazon and using broadcast channels. However, I only get 2 channel PCM with apps like CBS All Access, HBO GO and Disney+.
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post #19571 of 19590 Old 05-08-2020, 04:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NikosD View Post
I have multichannel 5.1 DD using the TV with my AVR connected with optical.
So do I. Through optical I get multichannel 5.1 DD with Amazon and using broadcast channels. However, I only get 2 channel PCM with apps like CBS All Access, HBO GO and Disney+ with ARC disabled.



This is weird. When ARC is enabled my Yamaha RX-A3000 displays Dolby Digital through HDMI ARC as expected BUT also through optical. However, they sound a little different and that I will investigate. I discovered this behavior streaming The Rise of Skywalker from Disney+.



I don't know if the issue lies with Sony or Yamaha or the app programmers.

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post #19572 of 19590 Old 05-08-2020, 09:50 AM
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Man I love this TV but I can't seem to find a happy medium with motion. If I turn on custom and smoothness to 2 and cinemotion to medium or high. Clearness is min It looks pretty darn smooth with little to no judder. But everyone looks slightly unnatural and sped up. The SOE. I am not a fan. But I feel like if I go any lower the judder is really bad on any panning. Like seems like no middle ground. What's everyone's favorite motion settings? I assume this is only an issue on 24hz stuff.

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SOE is annoying - I leave all 'motion' controls off. I play a lot of 24fps rips and never saw a problem. If I want the most perfect video, I'm not going to get it with anything that's streamed anyway.
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post #19573 of 19590 Old 05-08-2020, 05:41 PM
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Suppose I have Apple TV or Nvidia Shield connected to a Sony 900E via HDMI, and from HDMI ARC port, it connecting to a new Sonos Arc (new sonos speaker just announced). It doesn't support DTS.

Will the Sony 900E somehow convert/transcode this, or will it get sent to the Sonos Arc as DTS and i just won't hear anything?
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post #19574 of 19590 Old 05-08-2020, 10:42 PM
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Will the Sony 900E somehow convert/transcode this, or will it get sent to the Sonos Arc as DTS and i just won't hear anything?
I have managed to pass-through DTS to my AVR via Optical connection using the built-in Video player.

But I haven't found out any other app to do that.

Kodi, can transcode in real-time almost every audio format to DD and pass-through to AVR.

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post #19575 of 19590 Old 05-09-2020, 11:24 AM
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Need assistance with a TV that keeps shutting off and is impossible to update.

I am trying to troubleshoot a XBR49X900E TV that keeps shutting off at random and the only way to power it back on is unplugging the power from the TV or the power brick. The power brick seems to be super hot during these times so I also think it could be the culprit. The TV is on a very old developer build and I'm trying to upgrade the firmware to see if it helps, but I can't get an upgrade to install at all.

Is there any way to force an upgrade outside of the OS on the x900e in a recovery mode of some sort? I have tried loading the latest firmware to a USB as well as trying to do an internet upgrade through the device. Both options will download and get the firmware ready, but as soon as the TV shuts off to begin the update process, an update screen appears for a split second, then the TV restarts again immediately and takes me back to the operating system without completing the update. I've tried a factory reset and even a forced factory reset.

This is the build, which I can't find any information on: BRAVIA ATV2 UC-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR 217062302751 121951 dev-keys

This is the software version from the help screen: PKG1.2195.0230NAA

Any one have suggestions?
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post #19576 of 19590 Old 05-11-2020, 09:33 AM
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I just can`t get DTS to work with internal app (file from usb stick) ...and with each update i get my hopes up, but nothing. Dolby digital 5.1 works fine but DTS 5.1 keeps loosing sound every second, its like a lightshow on a display of my Aiwa AV receiver (older model) which is connected via optical (no HDMI at that time). Anyone else having problems?

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post #19577 of 19590 Old 05-14-2020, 03:41 AM
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I've never had a problem with my 75 900E. Last night I turned on my PS4 and the screen started flickering. When I started a game it cut out and the screen turned grey. The PS4 is plugged into HDMI input 3. I replaced the HDMI cable, same problem. I plugged the PS4 into HDMI input 2 and it worked no problem.

Here's the strange part, I plugged my Nintendo Switch, my cable box, and my 4k Blu Ray player into HDMI 3 and they all worked no problem. I plugged the PS4 back in, same problem. I started my PS4 up in safe mode and rebuilt the database, that didn't help. Experimenting with the the PS4 settings I set the resolution to 1080P only and it worked again.

So after a lot of trouble shooting, when my PS4 is plugged into HDMI input 3, and the PS4s output resolution is set at Automatic, which allows 4K, the screen flickers and eventually grey's out. Any other scenario everything seems to work. Any idea what the problem could be?
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post #19578 of 19590 Old 05-14-2020, 09:43 AM
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I've never had a problem with my 75 900E. Last night I turned on my PS4 and the screen started flickering. When I started a game it cut out and the screen turned grey. The PS4 is plugged into HDMI input 3. I replaced the HDMI cable, same problem. I plugged the PS4 into HDMI input 2 and it worked no problem.

Here's the strange part, I plugged my Nintendo Switch, my cable box, and my 4k Blu Ray player into HDMI 3 and they all worked no problem. I plugged the PS4 back in, same problem. I started my PS4 up in safe mode and rebuilt the database, that didn't help. Experimenting with the the PS4 settings I set the resolution to 1080P only and it worked again.

So after a lot of trouble shooting, when my PS4 is plugged into HDMI input 3, and the PS4s output resolution is set at Automatic, which allows 4K, the screen flickers and eventually grey's out. Any other scenario everything seems to work. Any idea what the problem could be?
My immediate thought is that it's a handshake issue on HDMI to get the image quality maxed out. Do you have the Input settings on the TV set to Enhanced?
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post #19579 of 19590 Old 05-17-2020, 11:12 AM
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Webcam & App to use for Zoom or other Videoconferencing?

It would be nice to be able to use the full 75" size of my 900E Sony, along with the AVR and Sound System it uses (via Optical out), for Zoom and other Videoconferencing platforms.

I have cast from a phone or PC to it, but it doesn't work all that well, camera and microphone placement and performance aren't ideal, and I would prefer a way to do this directly on the TV if feasible.

Is anybody here doing this successfully, and if so, how?

When I check the Zoom Android App it shows as non compatible with this TV. I could likely side-load it, but others I have done this with have not always worked that well.

And on the hardware end, what cameras/microphones have you used? USB or HDMI connection? I see some Logitech units, but don't know if they would work with this TV.


Thanks.

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post #19580 of 19590 Old 05-17-2020, 01:44 PM
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I was wondering if anyone else has had issues with occasional flicker with the X900E:



I get a flicker that looks identical to this video: youtube.com/watch?v=pIaCMO67TBk (not my video, and not exact same tv model).


I don't really notice it in TV/Movies, but it is noticeable in games where the image is more static.


Happens with all image processing and automatic brightness settings disabled, and on the latest firmware.


The issue seems too minute to make a warranty claim stick, since it is hard to observe on demand .
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post #19581 of 19590 Old 05-17-2020, 10:03 PM
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I’ve got an Nvidia shield TV connected via HDMI to my Sony X900E TV. The TV is connected via optical to my Sonos Playbar.

If I leave audio passthrough *enabled* on the Plex app, I can’t play DTS. I need to convert all DTS audio to AC3 5.1, if i want to keep passthrough. If I do that, my Sonos Playbar does get a Dolby Digital 5.1 input.

However, recently I thought of *disabling* audio passthrough on the plex app to get the plex to transcode the audio. However if I do this, my Sonos Playbar gets a Stereo 2.0 if I play DTS or AC3 5.1 audio... so it’s transcoding everything.

I have a feeling it just be my TV that’s causing the issue here. Is this expected? Or is there some setting I can change?
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post #19582 of 19590 Old 05-18-2020, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
It would be nice to be able to use the full 75" size of my 900E Sony, along with the AVR and Sound System it uses (via Optical out), for Zoom and other Videoconferencing platforms.

I have cast from a phone or PC to it, but it doesn't work all that well, camera and microphone placement and performance aren't ideal, and I would prefer a way to do this directly on the TV if feasible.

Is anybody here doing this successfully, and if so, how?

When I check the Zoom Android App it shows as non compatible with this TV. I could likely side-load it, but others I have done this with have not always worked that well.

And on the hardware end, what cameras/microphones have you used? USB or HDMI connection? I see some Logitech units, but don't know if they would work with this TV.


Thanks.
Pretty much every vendor that has a video call app discontinued any level of support of TV operating systems back around 2014/2015. I bought a specific Samsung TV in 2012 because I was able to add a camera to it and it support Skype. That was fairly short-lived and I didn't get anywhere near as much use out of it as I had wanted to.

Given the bad rap that Samsung (I believe it was them, anyhow) got for always "listening" and the potential for video cameras to be silently enabled, I can appreciate why this functionality died as it did (people spend far too much time in front of their TV's and the risk of being snooped on is just too great). Try placing something like an iPad so that the camera sees you and then 'cast' it to the TV (AirScreen works really well for Android and iOS devices and it's free).
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post #19583 of 19590 Old 05-18-2020, 11:53 AM
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Pretty much every vendor that has a video call app discontinued any level of support of TV operating systems back around 2014/2015. I bought a specific Samsung TV in 2012 because I was able to add a camera to it and it support Skype. That was fairly short-lived and I didn't get anywhere near as much use out of it as I had wanted to.

Given the bad rap that Samsung (I believe it was them, anyhow) got for always "listening" and the potential for video cameras to be silently enabled, I can appreciate why this functionality died as it did (people spend far too much time in front of their TV's and the risk of being snooped on is just too great). Try placing something like an iPad so that the camera sees you and then 'cast' it to the TV (AirScreen works really well for Android and iOS devices and it's free).
Appreciate the reply and suggestions. That's what I've done in the past - used a Laptop, with its camera and microphone, and cast it to the TV.

Now that I think of it, I could get one of those Logitech units, mount it on the TV, plug it into the Laptop, and then connect the Laptop to one of the HDMI inputs. That would probably work better than what I've done in the past.

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post #19584 of 19590 Old 05-18-2020, 01:02 PM
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Appreciate the reply and suggestions. That's what I've done in the past - used a Laptop, with its camera and microphone, and cast it to the TV.

Now that I think of it, I could get one of those Logitech units, mount it on the TV, plug it into the Laptop, and then connect the Laptop to one of the HDMI inputs. That would probably work better than what I've done in the past.
As long as the camera isn't too far "off angle", you can do pretty much whatever. The biggest issue is likely going to be that your image for others is going to be small because you aren't going to be very close to the TV. You'd probably fare better overall by placing a TV tray or something in front of you on the couch and positioning your laptop in front of you at a height where you are looking slightly overt the top of the lid to see the TV. This will give a good overall angle of you and the size will be appropriate for remote attendees while still affording you the ability of using the large display on your side (the TV).
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post #19585 of 19590 Old 05-18-2020, 03:33 PM
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As long as the camera isn't too far "off angle", you can do pretty much whatever. The biggest issue is likely going to be that your image for others is going to be small because you aren't going to be very close to the TV. You'd probably fare better overall by placing a TV tray or something in front of you on the couch and positioning your laptop in front of you at a height where you are looking slightly overt the top of the lid to see the TV. This will give a good overall angle of you and the size will be appropriate for remote attendees while still affording you the ability of using the large display on your side (the TV).
Thanks. Interestingly, the Logitech Webcams that I might have considered using, are sold out from every source I could find. Not a big surprise given what's going on in the world!

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post #19586 of 19590 Old 05-19-2020, 11:48 PM
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These settings were the absolute best for my tv!! Colors look great. Love em keep up the good work!
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post #19587 of 19590 Old 05-19-2020, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by subacabra View Post
Ok, here are my professional calibration settings. Now of course all sets are unique and there are most likely some variations in panels but enjoy.
*color, sharpness, hue all default 50,50,0*

Cinema Pro

Brightness Menu

Brightness: 16

Contrast: 90

Gamma: -2

Black Level: 49

Black ADJ: Off

ACE: Off

Auto Local Dimming: Medium or High

XDR: Off

Color Menu

Color Temp: Expert 1

ADV Color Temp

R-Gain: -5

G-Gain: Max

B-Gain: -6

R-Bias: 0

G-Bias: 0

B-Bias: 0

Multi Point ADJ

Point 1

-2

-2

-5

Point 2

-1

-3

-1

Point 3

-1

-1

2

Point 4

-1

-4

-1

Point 5

0

-1

-1

Point 6

-1

-1

-1

Point 7

1

0

0

Point 8

-1

0

0

Point 9

-2

0

-1

Point 10

0

0

0

Clariy Menu

Reality Creation: Off

Smooth Gradaion: Low

Motion Menu

Motionflow: True Cinema

CineMotion: Low

Custom

Brightness Menu

Brightness: 40

Contrast: 90

Gamma: -2

Black Level: 50

Black ADJ: Off

ACE: Off

Auto Local Dimming: Medium or High

XDR: Off

Color Menu

Color Temp: Expert 2

ADV Color Temp

R-Gain: -5

G-Gain: Max

B-Gain: -6

R-Bias: 0

G-Bias: 0

B-Bias: 0

Multi Point ADJ

Point 1

3

2

-4

Point 2

2

1

3

Point 3

2

1

4

Point 4

2

0

2

Point 5

2

0

0

Point 6

1

0

0

Point 7

1

0

0

Point 8

0

0

0

Point 9

0

0

-1

Point 10

0

0

0

Clariy Menu

Reality Creation: Off

Smooth Gradaion: Low

Motion Menu

Motionflow: True Cinema

CineMotion: Low

Cinema Pro HDR

Brightness Menu

Brightness: Max

Contrast: 90

Gamma: 0

Black Level: 50

Black ADJ: Off

ACE: Off

Auto Local Dimming: High

XDR: High

Color Menu

Color Temp: Expert 1

ADV Color Temp

R-Gain: -5

G-Gain: Max

B-Gain: -6

R-Bias: 0

G-Bias: 0

B-Bias: 0

Multi Point ADJ

Point 1

-2

-2

-5

Point 2

-1

-3

-1

Point 3

-1

-1

2

Point 4

-1

-4

-1

Point 5

0

-1

-1

Point 6

-1

-1

-1

Point 7

1

0

0

Point 8

-1

0

0

Point 9

-2

0

-1

Point 10

0

0

0

Clariy Menu

Reality Creation: Off

Smooth Gradaion: Low

Motion Menu

Motionflow: True Cinema

CineMotion: Low
These settings are great. Thx Subacabra!
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post #19588 of 19590 Old 05-21-2020, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddtemplar View Post
I was wondering if anyone else has had issues with occasional flicker with the X900E:



I get a flicker that looks identical to this video: youtube.com/watch?v=pIaCMO67TBk (not my video, and not exact same tv model).


I don't really notice it in TV/Movies, but it is noticeable in games where the image is more static.


Happens with all image processing and automatic brightness settings disabled, and on the latest firmware.


The issue seems too minute to make a warranty claim stick, since it is hard to observe on demand .
Had the very same problem with my first set. Here's a video I took when I noticed the issue:

For what it's worth, and I hate to be the bearer of bad news, Sony was not able to provide me with any solutions so they replaced it under warranty. The problem was believed to be due to a faulty room brightness sensor, but disabling it didn't fix the issue.
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post #19589 of 19590 Old 05-23-2020, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobby_t1 View Post
I’ve got an Nvidia shield TV connected via HDMI to my Sony X900E TV. The TV is connected via optical to my Sonos Playbar.

If I leave audio passthrough *enabled* on the Plex app, I can’t play DTS. I need to convert all DTS audio to AC3 5.1, if i want to keep passthrough. If I do that, my Sonos Playbar does get a Dolby Digital 5.1 input.

However, recently I thought of *disabling* audio passthrough on the plex app to get the plex to transcode the audio. However if I do this, my Sonos Playbar gets a Stereo 2.0 if I play DTS or AC3 5.1 audio... so it’s transcoding everything.

I have a feeling it just be my TV that’s causing the issue here. Is this expected? Or is there some setting I can change?

I have a Shield connected to my display as well, but I use a Marantz AVR rather than a soundbar. The only suggestion I can think of is enabling ARC on the Soundbar, if that is even possible. Make sure the Soundbar is connected to HDMI3 (ARC) as well. When I disable ARC on my AVR no sound comes from Plex or any of the TV's onboard apps. Even setting the speakers to "Audio System" will not enable the AVR's sound input. But ARC will allow for the audio to be played from the AVR.

Of course, any Lossless Audio will be downconverted to either Dolby Digital or DTS (core).

Sony XBR55X900E
Marantz SR7010/Marantz MM7025
Oppo UDP-203 - Nvidia Shield
XBox One X
Klipsch RP-260f - RP-440C - RP140sa- RP-160m - RB10 - Sony SA-WM500
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post #19590 of 19590 Old 05-25-2020, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by groove93 View Post
With Optical you get Dolby Digital 5.1. For those of us capable of OTA reception, stations with Digital 5.1 audio are capable through this connection as well.



With HDMI Arc, you get Dolby Digital Plus through apps such as Netflix, Amazon, and Disney Plus.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
I do not get Dolby Digital anything with Netflix. I do get DD with Amazon Prime.
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