Official 2017 Vizio M Series Owners Thread - Page 105 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3121 of 3289 Old 10-22-2018, 02:36 PM
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After trying several different options, I've settled on the Sound and Vision settings which work well for me....

https://www.soundandvision.com/conte...eview-settings

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post #3122 of 3289 Old 10-24-2018, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atfree View Post
After trying several different options, I've settled on the Sound and Vision settings which work well for me....

https://www.soundandvision.com/conte...eview-settings

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
I am using the rtings settings. i have used the sound and vision ones as well.

what obviously worries me is that they are so completely different that none of these may apply correctly to my tv.
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post #3123 of 3289 Old 10-25-2018, 04:54 AM
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The Brightness setting of 50 is correct and lowering it will result in clipping shadow detail. Leaving Contrast at 50 does clip whiter-than-white values (for video, this is above code 235). You can lower Contrast to 45 or something if you don't want to clip above Reference White. Beyond that, you'd need special equipment to calibrate a specific display for colour accuracy.



But you can do your own basic SDR calibration with the AVS HD 709 disc or MP4 files available for download here. Just play the disc or files in the device you normally use to send content to your TV and check out the basic patterns for Black Clipping and White Clipping to adjust the TV's Brightness and Contrast values respectively.

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post #3124 of 3289 Old 10-25-2018, 07:16 AM
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I thought the DV issues had been fixed on this set but a series of unfortunate events on Netflix was playing in SDR as well as Mad Max on Vudu...


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post #3125 of 3289 Old 10-25-2018, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by multiformous View Post
The Brightness setting of 50 is correct and lowering it will result in clipping shadow detail. Leaving Contrast at 50 does clip whiter-than-white values (for video, this is above code 235). You can lower Contrast to 45 or something if you don't want to clip above Reference White. Beyond that, you'd need special equipment to calibrate a specific display for colour accuracy.



But you can do your own basic SDR calibration with the AVS HD 709 disc or MP4 files available for download here. Just play the disc or files in the device you normally use to send content to your TV and check out the basic patterns for Black Clipping and White Clipping to adjust the TV's Brightness and Contrast values respectively.

Do u mean for Calibrated or/and Calibrated Dark? I have found Calibrated Dark to be just that, too damn dark. Even in a completely dark room. I have settled on Calibrated with Backlight at 75, Brightness at 49 (the one notch down from 50 really makes a difference in the light transitions of the FALD), Contrast at 55 and the rest are set up to the rtings settings.
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post #3126 of 3289 Old 10-25-2018, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by NoUDont View Post
Do u mean for Calibrated or/and Calibrated Dark? I have found Calibrated Dark to be just that, too damn dark. Even in a completely dark room. I have settled on Calibrated with Backlight at 75, Brightness at 49 (the one notch down from 50 really makes a difference in the light transitions of the FALD), Contrast at 55 and the rest are set up to the rtings settings.
Calibrated and Calibrated Dark are just names for default modes that are most accurate with respect to how video content is actually mastered. Once you make changes from the default, you can always save it as a separate Picture Mode (and name it) for switching back and forth. The main difference between the two Calibrated modes is the default Backlight setting, which doesn't affect picture accuracy the way Brightness and Contrast do. Once you dial in the Brightness and Contrast so that you aren't clipping low and highlight details, you can set the Backlight for overall picture level to suit the viewing environment. I agree that certain content with a lot of just-above-black in the image can make the FALD more noticeable, and turning down the brightness can alleviate this. But just keep in mind that you're crushing shadow details that were intended to be there (for better or worse). And Contrast at 55 is clipping a lot of highlight detail. If you want a brighter image, adjust the Backlight and possibly the Gamma correction. From an accuracy perspective, Contrast at 50 (or slightly below) is the correct setting.


Of course, this is just for SDR. The Backlight setting in HDR mode should be left at 50 so that it follows the PQ EOTF most accurately. Again, Brightness should be left at 50, though again you could probably lower Contrast from 50 by two or three points to preserve some highlight detail beyond 1000 nit code level values.

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post #3127 of 3289 Old 10-25-2018, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by multiformous View Post
Calibrated and Calibrated Dark are just names for default modes that are most accurate with respect to how video content is actually mastered. Once you make changes from the default, you can always save it as a separate Picture Mode (and name it) for switching back and forth. The main difference between the two Calibrated modes is the default Backlight setting, which doesn't affect picture accuracy the way Brightness and Contrast do. Once you dial in the Brightness and Contrast so that you aren't clipping low and highlight details, you can set the Backlight for overall picture level to suit the viewing environment. I agree that certain content with a lot of just-above-black in the image can make the FALD more noticeable, and turning down the brightness can alleviate this. But just keep in mind that you're crushing shadow details that were intended to be there (for better or worse). And Contrast at 55 is clipping a lot of highlight detail. If you want a brighter image, adjust the Backlight and possibly the Gamma correction. From an accuracy perspective, Contrast at 50 (or slightly belowe) is the correct setting.


Of course, this is just for SDR. The Backlight setting in HDR mode should be left at 50 so that it follows the PQ EOTF most accurately. Again, Brightness should be left at 50, though again you could probably lower Contrast from 50 by two or three points to preserve some highlight detail beyond 1000 nit code level values.
Thanks for the detailed response. I will give it another shot with ur suggestions. Do u use the rtings or sound and vision settings?
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post #3128 of 3289 Old 10-26-2018, 04:33 AM
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Thanks for the detailed response. I will give it another shot with ur suggestions. Do u use the rtings or sound and vision settings?
I use the rtings settings, with Gamma 2.4, though I have lowered the Contrast to 45 in SDR mode to prevent whiter-than-white clipping. Just practicing safe settings! Again, you can see how the Brightness and Contrast settings work with the basic test patterns available here.

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post #3129 of 3289 Old 11-02-2018, 11:01 AM
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Anyone had their motherboard replaced? Sounds like that's what they are going to do for me since I'm having an issue where the TV shuts off randomly.
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post #3130 of 3289 Old 11-06-2018, 06:11 AM
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10 Bit panel?

I have the new Amazon Firestick 4K, connected through a newer Denon AVR to my M65E0. Works great in all modes, including DV. There is a setting for the stick to output either 8,10, or 12 bit video. If the Vizio is a 10 bit panel, should I avoid setting the stick to 12 bit? Though it seems to work in that mode, am I wasting compute power in the stick for video data that my TV can’t use? Thanks..
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post #3131 of 3289 Old 11-06-2018, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by hiker02910 View Post
I have the new Amazon Firestick 4K, connected through a newer Denon AVR to my M65E0. Works great in all modes, including DV. There is a setting for the stick to output either 8,10, or 12 bit video. If the Vizio is a 10 bit panel, should I avoid setting the stick to 12 bit? Though it seems to work in that mode, am I wasting compute power in the stick for video data that my TV can’t use? Thanks..
I wanted to get some feedback on the firestick. I don't have one, never tried any of those streaming devices, just the built in chrome cast...

Have you jailbroken it, and how's the quality of the streaming.

You on comcast cable?

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post #3132 of 3289 Old 11-06-2018, 12:53 PM
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I wanted to get some feedback on the firestick. I don't have one, never tried any of those streaming devices, just the built in chrome cast...

Have you jailbroken it, and how's the quality of the streaming.

You on comcast cable?
It’s actually very nice for the price. Nimble menu navigation, no buffering, Atmos, DV, HDR10, no problems installing. Best if you have Amazon Prime. I’m on FIOS internet.
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post #3133 of 3289 Old 11-06-2018, 12:55 PM
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Cool, so you prefer it over the chromecast. I never use chromecast or the menus for chromecast and didn't know if I was missing something. Maybe I need to get this firestick.

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post #3134 of 3289 Old 11-06-2018, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by hiker02910 View Post
I have the new Amazon Firestick 4K, connected through a newer Denon AVR to my M65E0. Works great in all modes, including DV. There is a setting for the stick to output either 8,10, or 12 bit video. If the Vizio is a 10 bit panel, should I avoid setting the stick to 12 bit? Though it seems to work in that mode, am I wasting compute power in the stick for video data that my TV can’t use? Thanks..
I'd like to know this as well. I have my Amazon Fire Tv 4k connected to my Sony Ht-ct790 soundbar, and then arc to my M65-d0. I get great video and audio, but video makes at HDR10 as my soundbar can't pass through DV.
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post #3135 of 3289 Old 11-06-2018, 05:58 PM
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Cool, so you prefer it over the chromecast. I never use chromecast or the menus for chromecast and didn't know if I was missing something. Maybe I need to get this firestick.
I prefer a physical remote to using a phone to make selections on Chromecast. Also the volume control on the Firestick remote sure beats swapping remotes to adjust sound level.
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post #3136 of 3289 Old 11-23-2018, 06:17 AM
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Been awhile since I posted here but I need some quick advice.

I have been playing a lot of Forza Horizon 4 on Xbox One X in HDR. After turning off 4:2:0 (TURN THIS OFF) it looks amazing. Been having a blast.

Some Playstation games dropped in price so I switched back for a bit of Sony gaming. Popped in Spiderman. Used my xbox setting for a little swinging fun and I had a severe headache right behind my eyes in less then 30 minutes. I had this same issue with Monster Hunter on the PS4 HDR, back in February. I just turned it off. I have played up to 8 hour sessions on my xbox one with zero issues.

What I have figured out is the HDR on the Playstation is way to bright and the colors are way blown out. Has anyone else had this issue? Anyone know of a fix? Or what have you calibrated your tv too? Do you use different settings for each console? Sorry for all the questions I really want to fix this, if there is even a fix.

I have bias lighting and a lamp turned on to help with it. For now I have turned my backlight down to 40, even set it to zero but it just seems to crush the blacks at that low of a setting nor does it really help. I am going to mess with it some more and maybe turn the color down a couple of points.

Again everything else I watch from Chromecast+, Vizio Chromecast to Xbox One is perfectly fine, it is only ever on the Sony Console. I have it set to Automatic on everything and it switches to 2160p YUV 4:2:2 when HDR kicks in. Games seem to be the worst but even Netflix seems to blow the brightness way out of wack.

Thanks so much reading my annoying post. lol
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post #3137 of 3289 Old 11-27-2018, 05:44 AM
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So I recently hooked up my new UHD player to one of the 1.4 HDMI ports. I have my Apple TV using HDM 2.0 port. The player shows 4K DV for playing a disc. However, when I stream the same content on my Apple TV, the color has a little more pop. I was the under the impression 1.4 and 2.0 would behave the exact same way with 24p content but that might not be the case. Anyone else notice this?
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post #3138 of 3289 Old 11-30-2018, 04:04 PM
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So I recently hooked up my new UHD player to one of the 1.4 HDMI ports. I have my Apple TV using HDM 2.0 port. The player shows 4K DV for playing a disc. However, when I stream the same content on my Apple TV, the color has a little more pop. I was the under the impression 1.4 and 2.0 would behave the exact same way with 24p content but that might not be the case. Anyone else notice this?
I believe only Input 1 gives u access to the WCG (along with streaming 4K HDR/DV content directly from tv.

U said ur player says 4K DV when playing a disc, what does hitting the INFO button on tv say?

If u dont have a receiver that passes through the signals (like me), then u will have to choose. I stream directly from tv or from my phone/tablet and everything works great. I have my 4K UHD Blu-ray player hooked up to Input 1.
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post #3139 of 3289 Old 12-01-2018, 02:46 AM
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You can't compare a disc with streaming - they're different sources and you have no info on what changes may have been made to the original source while encoding. There should be no difference between inputs, assuming the TV settings are identical for them (settings are kept per input).

If you want to compare inputs for some reason, move the disc player between them.
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post #3140 of 3289 Old 12-01-2018, 03:35 PM
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Newbie here, is there any "2018 M series" official thread yet , looking in to getting one soon, and just curious on peoples reviews in here.
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post #3141 of 3289 Old 12-03-2018, 05:52 AM
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So I went back and compared some scenes on my UHD blu ray player using HDMI input 1 and 2 and the results seem to be the same. This was good news as it saves me from getting a switcher.
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post #3142 of 3289 Old 12-03-2018, 07:15 AM
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So I went back and compared some scenes on my UHD blu ray player using HDMI input 1 and 2 and the results seem to be the same. This was good news as it saves me from getting a switcher.
Was it just a picture settings issue on the TV? Remember, non-HDMI 1 ports need that UHD HDR content to be at 24p (any higher frame rate and the bandwidth requirement exceeds the port's capability) so it is crucial that your player can match frame rate output to the content.

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post #3143 of 3289 Old 12-03-2018, 07:40 AM
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Was it just a picture settings issue on the TV? Remember, non-HDMI 1 ports need that UHD HDR content to be at 24p (any higher frame rate and the bandwidth requirement exceeds the port's capability) so it is crucial that your player can match frame rate output to the content.
I should have clarified. The 4K image using HDMI vs HDMI 2 appeared to be the same. As in, HDMI 2 is perfectly fine for all UHD content at 24P

And while I previously stated I thought 4K streaming looked better than 4K disc. After looking at it again, I would take that back. I liked the more punchy colors of streaming. But disc provided more natural skin tones and likely a slightly more accurate image.
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post #3144 of 3289 Old 12-06-2018, 10:44 AM
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Didn't even notice when the firmware updated to 5.0.14.1 on my M55-E0. Not sure what the changes are, but they've renamed the Xtreme Black Engine or whatever it was to Active Full Array at some point.


From reddit:



Quote:
Hello All,
We have started to release a new firmware version 5.0.14.1 for the 2016 and 2017 E, M and P Series SmartCast models.
Updates:
  1. Fixed an issue where a sound bar connected via HDMI ARC could power on by itself after several hours.
  2. Fixed an issue where a video could display artifacts when switching from YouTube to an HDMI input.
  3. Fixed an issue where Color Space settings and HDMI Color Space setting may not be carried over to SmartCast apps.
  4. Fixed the missing audio type and Wi-Fi information in SmartCast App.
  5. Fixed an issue where you will see an infinite spinner when checking for software updates.
  6. Fixed an issue where the remote control may not be able to move from left to right on the on-screen keyboard when entering a password.
  7. Fixed an issue where a user may not be able to select an Access Point after entering the incorrect password.
  8. Fixed an issue where a television may lose all Wi-Fi access points if the TV is in Quick Start mode and it is powered on/off.
  9. Fixed an issue where HDR content being passed through an AVR may not be recognized.
  10. Picture Mode will now display the video type of Dolby Vision, HDR10, or HLG if video is being displayed in an HDR format.
  11. System information menu now displays the Audio Out type and Wi-Fi Module information.
  12. Overall performance improvements.
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post #3145 of 3289 Old 12-07-2018, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiker02910 View Post
I have the new Amazon Firestick 4K, connected through a newer Denon AVR to my M65E0. Works great in all modes, including DV. There is a setting for the stick to output either 8,10, or 12 bit video. If the Vizio is a 10 bit panel, should I avoid setting the stick to 12 bit? Though it seems to work in that mode, am I wasting compute power in the stick for video data that my TV can’t use? Thanks..
I just recently purchased a fire stick 4k. In general I really like it, but I have noticed an issue with it. Specifically, I can't seem to play Dolby Vision content in 4k. I have no trouble playing HDR10 and SDR content in 4k, but DV content always plays in 1080p instead of 4k. I've tried with the fire stick plugged in to both HDMI port 1 and port 4 (directly into the TV) with the same results. Is this a limitation of the fire stick or am I missing something. Has anyone else seen this behavior? Is there a way to fix it?

Thanks!
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post #3146 of 3289 Old 12-07-2018, 10:16 PM
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I just recently purchased a fire stick 4k. In general I really like it, but I have noticed an issue with it. Specifically, I can't seem to play Dolby Vision content in 4k. I have no trouble playing HDR10 and SDR content in 4k, but DV content always plays in 1080p instead of 4k. I've tried with the fire stick plugged in to both HDMI port 1 and port 4 (directly into the TV) with the same results. Is this a limitation of the fire stick or am I missing something. Has anyone else seen this behavior? Is there a way to fix it?

Thanks!
Good question. BUt otherwise how do you like it? SOmeone told me to get a XMBC box? Not sure what that is, but I think they're like $200.

Also, have you JB'd the firestick? It seems many do this,.

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post #3147 of 3289 Old 12-08-2018, 12:07 PM
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Good question. BUt otherwise how do you like it? SOmeone told me to get a XMBC box? Not sure what that is, but I think they're like $200.

Also, have you JB'd the firestick? It seems many do this,.
I really like the Fire TV Stick 4k. The UI is easy to navigate and responsive and it has an outstanding selection of apps. I have previously used Chromecasts extensively, and there are times it is nice to be able to cast things from my phone. But, in general, I prefer just being able to pull up an app on the Fire TV with a remote rather than having to pull out my phone to watch something. Also, some of the apps that I use (Plex in particular) have a better UI on the Fire Stick than the built-in apps from Vizio. In terms of how it compares to Roku, I'd say it's a toss up. I've used Roku quite a bit and I can't say that I like it any more than the Fire Stick, but I don't like it any less either. I don't know enough about XBMC boxes to comment on them. I haven't jailbroken my Fire Stick since I haven't had any reason to.

In terms of my original question, I was able to get Dolby Vision and 4k working together with the Fire TV Stick. I enabled Full UHD Color on HDMI 1, rebooted the Fire Stick, and lo and behold it worked. Unfortunately it means that I can't use ARC back to my (old) AVR, but I'll just use optical until I get an HDMI 2.0 enabled AVR or sound bar.
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post #3148 of 3289 Old 12-26-2018, 08:59 AM
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hi all - need help with my combo getting Atmos to the soundbar when playing VUDU on my tv (mseries vizio) via my tv's smart app.

Vizio M75-E1 television. Only one input, Input 1 (ARC), supports HDMI 2.0a. Does this send the atmos signal to the k950?

When i use the Vizio smart app to connect to VUDU to get my 4k movies, i don't see the blue LED on the k950 to signify atmos.

So shouldn't i just hook up the vizio input 1 ARC to the HDMI ARC on the k950 and I should see blue LED?
I think i'm outta luck based on what i'm reading...

TV Samsung PN64F8500
Receiver Pioneer VSX-1020
Blu-ray Panasonic DMP-BDT220
Speakers Definitive Technology Mythos SSA-50
2mchpwr is offline  
post #3149 of 3289 Old 12-31-2018, 10:06 PM
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Hey all - I've been using a Fire Stick 4k for several weeks now and most of the time it works well. However, I've been experiencing an intermittent problem. Sometimes when I am using the Fire Stick, the screen will start to go black and the audio will cut out for a few seconds every few seconds as if it is losing its HDMI synch. It will continue to cut in and out for a while, and then eventually it will stop doing it and be fine for several days until it starts doing it again.

The Fire Stick is plugged into HDMI 1 with UHD Full Color turned on. Turning off UHD Full Color will immediately and consistently eliminate the issue, but then I also lose Dolby Vision at 2160p.

I'm not sure what causes the issue to start happening or how to get it to stop (without turning off UHD Full Color). I've tried different HDMI cables and it hasn't made a difference (I'm currently using the one that came with the Fire Stick. Has anyone seen anything similar or have any ideas for things I can try to fix the problem?

Thanks!!
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post #3150 of 3289 Old 01-02-2019, 06:52 AM
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Is there a reason the picture settings change between inputs? For instance on calibrated, the backlight is set to 50 for my apple TV but set at 100 when I switch to Blu ray or cable.
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