Official 2017 Vizio M Series Owners Thread - Page 73 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2161 of 3296 Old 01-29-2018, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by OnQore View Post
I never said it didn't work in SDR. What I stated was that FALD dims SDR content, unlike when it's used to brighten HDR content.

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Could you explain why FALD dims SDR content?
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post #2162 of 3296 Old 01-29-2018, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by hky4life View Post
What your seeing in those images is not abnormal based on what I've seen on my set and others. What you are seeing is multiple zones activated on the side of the screen that has the menu icon. On the P it wouldn't really be noticeable because it has 126 or 128 zones whereas the M only has 32. The zones are larger, so there will be portions of the screen that get lit up just because a tiny corner of an image has touched that zone. Resulting in what you see in your image.

When Extreme Black Engine is "off" it means the backlight is set and stable at whatever level you set it at. (ie, backlight =35, means the entire panel will stay at the 35 level and not dynamically shift based on content/zones). This is fine for SDR, but not great for HDR. When Extreme Black Engine is "on" the backlight dynamically increases and decreases portions of the screen based on the content to enhance colour and contrast of the object - which is important and needed for HDR. A Static image, such as the Xbox menu screen will (as you see) highlight/enhance this effect making it much more visible and make flaws or clouding that would not necessarily normally be visible, become visible. In fact it may make the screen look worse than it is because what might be perceived as "flaws" are just gaps in the zone overlap creating the appearance of unevenness or blotchiness. For most content you will not notice it, but with local dimming "on", things like a black loading screen with an animated loading circle in the middle of the screen, etc (like Plex, or even netflix) you will see zones activating and deactivating.

In regards to my previous post. As far as regular content I rarely noticed the zones....but football in particular I constantly could see activations and deactivations of zones. Xbox, other than the menu screens (like you showed) I never noticed anything in games themselves.
Thank you so much for the explanation! You mentioned the loading circle on Netflix, yes, it is very noticeable but I also saw it on my Vizio P with the 128 zones although not as severe. Still, this display is just great and I really enjoy watching both SDR and HDR content. I watched Guardian of the Galaxy 2 yesterday in SDR and I could not take my eyes of it as it looked so beautiful. I need to get the 4K HDR version now........Glad to know it is not a TV/software issue.
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post #2163 of 3296 Old 01-29-2018, 02:35 PM
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Light Sensor location?

Where physically is the ambient light sensor located?
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post #2164 of 3296 Old 01-29-2018, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by hky4life View Post
Personally I have it Turned OFF while watching sports and while playing NON HDR video games. Specifically in regards to sports....I found it incredibly distracting having it ON while watching Football. I was constantly seeing the zones activating and deactivating on various parts of the screen and it was driving me a little nuts. Not something I noticed on the P, which would lead me to believe it is because the M has significantly fewer zones.

For movies, Netflix, etc, then yes, leaving it turned on
That sucks. My set does't exhibit those issues. It's in a really dark bedroom too, so I definitely would have picked up on it, especially considering this is the first LCD set I've owned. Plasma fan boy.
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post #2165 of 3296 Old 01-30-2018, 07:58 AM
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M70 - HDMI 1.4 vs 2.0 Help

Hi all, did a lot of reading before picking up the 2017 M-70. Love it so far ( 3 days in). My question is about the poor decision to include only 1 2.0 HDMI. I have my comcast cable hooked up to HDMI 3, Roku Premier Plus to HDMI 2, and my Xbox One S to HDMI 1 with the 2.0 standard.

I want to use my Xbox One S with 4K, so I understand I need to have that plugged into HDMI1. My question is, since I use the Roku heavily for streaming on Netflix, (love the Roku interface) I want to ensure that I will still get the best image quality on HDMI 2 port, even though it is only the 1.4 standard. Will it still show in 4K? As its HDCP 2.2 does that make the difference? I assume the few HDR shows on Netflix I will need to plug in to HDMI 1 to actually view?

What are other folks using for the HDMI port setups? (cable, streaming box, gaming device, etc.)

Thank you for all your help!
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post #2166 of 3296 Old 01-30-2018, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by pjn5000 View Post
Hi all, did a lot of reading before picking up the 2017 M-70. Love it so far ( 3 days in). My question is about the poor decision to include only 1 2.0 HDMI. I have my comcast cable hooked up to HDMI 3, Roku Premier Plus to HDMI 2, and my Xbox One S to HDMI 1 with the 2.0 standard.

I want to use my Xbox One S with 4K, so I understand I need to have that plugged into HDMI1. My question is, since I use the Roku heavily for streaming on Netflix, (love the Roku interface) I want to ensure that I will still get the best image quality on HDMI 2 port, even though it is only the 1.4 standard. Will it still show in 4K? As its HDCP 2.2 does that make the difference? I assume the few HDR shows on Netflix I will need to plug in to HDMI 1 to actually view?

What are other folks using for the HDMI port setups? (cable, streaming box, gaming device, etc.)

Thank you for all your help!
I purchased the 5 x1 Huierav hdmi switch from Amazon.ca for $69.99. I have a ps4, Xbox one s, shield tv all connected, 4k hdr working perfectly through all.

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post #2167 of 3296 Old 01-30-2018, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjn5000 View Post
Hi all, did a lot of reading before picking up the 2017 M-70. Love it so far ( 3 days in). My question is about the poor decision to include only 1 2.0 HDMI. I have my comcast cable hooked up to HDMI 3, Roku Premier Plus to HDMI 2, and my Xbox One S to HDMI 1 with the 2.0 standard.

I want to use my Xbox One S with 4K, so I understand I need to have that plugged into HDMI1. My question is, since I use the Roku heavily for streaming on Netflix, (love the Roku interface) I want to ensure that I will still get the best image quality on HDMI 2 port, even though it is only the 1.4 standard. Will it still show in 4K? As its HDCP 2.2 does that make the difference? I assume the few HDR shows on Netflix I will need to plug in to HDMI 1 to actually view?

What are other folks using for the HDMI port setups? (cable, streaming box, gaming device, etc.)

Thank you for all your help!
I just returned my Roku Ultra. Picture quality was complete crap for 4K/HDR streaming. I can watch something like Amazon prime's Grand Tour in 4k HDR10 on the Roku and XBox One S. Roku has visible issues in stuff like the sky, where you can see the bands of colors clearly separated. XBox One S? Perfectly beautiful 4KHDR10 stream. Have confirmed this with multiple different apps and programs. I've even seen people now also mentioning issues like that with the Roku.

I highly recommend using the XBox One S for the majority of your streams for the much better picture quality.

As for the only 1 HDMI 2.0 input: that's why the TV is so cheap. They limit the HDMI 2.0 inputs, remove the TV tuner, etc. I'd look at an HDMI splitter since it seems you do not have a receiver.

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post #2168 of 3296 Old 01-30-2018, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by JimmyTango View Post
I just returned my Roku Ultra. Picture quality was complete crap for 4K/HDR streaming. I can watch something like Amazon prime's Grand Tour in 4k HDR10 on the Roku and XBox One S. Roku has visible issues in stuff like the sky, where you can see the bands of colors clearly separated. XBox One S? Perfectly beautiful 4KHDR10 stream. Have confirmed this with multiple different apps and programs. I've even seen people now also mentioning issues like that with the Roku.

I highly recommend using the XBox One S for the majority of your streams for the much better picture quality.

As for the only 1 HDMI 2.0 input: that's why the TV is so cheap. They limit the HDMI 2.0 inputs, remove the TV tuner, etc. I'd look at an HDMI splitter since it seems you do not have a receiver.
Thanks. Haven't noticed any issues with the Roku but its too early on for me to notice. I am using a Vizio 40 inch 5.1 sound bar, run through optical. I may look into a receiver at some point-- I assume if it is all 4k compliant, I can just run 1 HDMI right to HDMI 1 on the TV and just run all the devices to the receiver.
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post #2169 of 3296 Old 01-30-2018, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by pjn5000 View Post
Thanks. Haven't noticed any issues with the Roku but its too early on for me to notice. I am using a Vizio 40 inch 5.1 sound bar, run through optical. I may look into a receiver at some point-- I assume if it is all 4k compliant, I can just run 1 HDMI right to HDMI 1 on the TV and just run all the devices to the receiver.
Yup, that's how its done. The HDMI splitter will do the same thing for you.

Also, try both the Roku and XBox in HDMI 1. Fire up Grand Tour in 4K/HDR10 if you have Amazon Prime and compare the two.

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post #2170 of 3296 Old 01-30-2018, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjn5000 View Post
My question is, since I use the Roku heavily for streaming on Netflix, (love the Roku interface) I want to ensure that I will still get the best image quality on HDMI 2 port, even though it is only the 1.4 standard. Will it still show in 4K?

Port 2 will do 4k HDR up to 30 fps. It will not do 4k HDR @ 60 fps. So yes, you can see "some" 4k HDR, just not all of it.

The previously mentioned switcher would be your best option if you don't have a receiver.

Does the Premier Plus not have the ability to scan your TV and tell you it's capabilities? The Streaming Stick + does. I thought all Rokus do.

Last edited by zeus33; 01-30-2018 at 05:17 PM.
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post #2171 of 3296 Old 01-30-2018, 11:34 AM
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Port 2 will do 4k HDR up to 30 fps. It will not do 4k HDR @ 60 fps. So yes, you can see "some" 4k HDR, just not all of it.
While that's technically true, in practice it isn't. The OP was asking about Roku, and it's not true for some (all?) Roku channels. For instance, The Grand Tour on Amazon, although it's 4K24HDR, will only play in HDR on port 1 from a Roku. Netflix is apparently similar. If the channel doesn't see 6k60HDR support, it won't play in HDR even if it could for a program's actual frame rate.

I also haven't been able to get the builtin Smartcast Amazon "app" to do HDR, but Roku Premiere+ does it fine via HDMI 1.

I just feed all sources into HDMI 1 via an AVR which supports 4K/HDR/DV.
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post #2172 of 3296 Old 01-30-2018, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by zeus33 View Post
Port 2 will do 4k HDR up to 30 fps. It will not do 4k HDR @ 60 fps. So yes, you can see "some" 4k HDR, just not all of it.

The previously mentioned splitter would be your best option if you don't have a receiver.

Does the Premier Plus not have the ability to scan your TV and tell you it's capabilities? The Streaming Stick + does. I thought all Rokus do.
In HDMI 4 (as well as HDMI 1 with Full UHD Colour disabled), my Oppo UDP-203 will play a [email protected] 10-bit HDR10 video as [email protected] 8-bit HDR10. HDR works with 60p, it just won't do true 10-bit video at 60p without the Full UHD Colour option. Dunno if other players/streaming sticks or boxes will downsample 10-bit video to 8-bit or what. But HDR works at 60p on those ports at 8-bits.

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post #2173 of 3296 Old 01-30-2018, 12:45 PM
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Does anyone else feel that youtube 1080p casting doesn't provide good quality images?
For example I was playing this music video
4k looks good though.
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post #2174 of 3296 Old 01-30-2018, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by JimmyTango View Post
Yup, that's how its done. The HDMI splitter will do the same thing for you.

Also, try both the Roku and XBox in HDMI 1. Fire up Grand Tour in 4K/HDR10 if you have Amazon Prime and compare the two.
Technically, he needs a HDMI switcher, not a splitter. Just wanted to clear that up in case he starts searching for one on Amazon.
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post #2175 of 3296 Old 01-30-2018, 02:18 PM
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I'd recommend the Huierav HDMI 5x1 switch. Search for "HUIERAV HDMI 2.0 Switch 5x1| HDR and HDCP 2.2 Protocol" on amazon.com, it is sold by Huierav and fulfilled by Amazon, so you can return it if you aren't satisfied.

I've had it for about a month now, using it daily, and zero issues. The only "issue" I have is that it doesn't auto-power off after a certain time, so I have to turn it off. If you have a Logitech Harmony with IR blaster, you can use the one remote to turn everything off. I'm looking at going this route as I'm enjoying using my Shield TV's CEC function, so when I "sleep" the Shield, it turns off my receiver, Shield, and Tv. This Switch is the only thing remaining on, so I have to manually power it off with the included remote.
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post #2176 of 3296 Old 01-30-2018, 02:59 PM
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Since I also need a separate TV tuner for this TV, is there a tuner or UHD player that includes a switcher so I don't need to buy both?
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post #2177 of 3296 Old 01-30-2018, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike.s View Post
While that's technically true, in practice it isn't. The OP was asking about Roku, and it's not true for some (all?) Roku channels. For instance, The Grand Tour on Amazon, although it's 4K24HDR, will only play in HDR on port 1 from a Roku. Netflix is apparently similar. If the channel doesn't see 6k60HDR support, it won't play in HDR even if it could for a program's actual frame rate.

I also haven't been able to get the builtin Smartcast Amazon "app" to do HDR, but Roku Premiere+ does it fine via HDMI 1.

I just feed all sources into HDMI 1 via an AVR which supports 4K/HDR/DV.
Quote:
Originally Posted by multiformous View Post
In HDMI 4 (as well as HDMI 1 with Full UHD Colour disabled), my Oppo UDP-203 will play a [email protected] 10-bit HDR10 video as [email protected] 8-bit HDR10. HDR works with 60p, it just won't do true 10-bit video at 60p without the Full UHD Colour option. Dunno if other players/streaming sticks or boxes will downsample 10-bit video to 8-bit or what. But HDR works at 60p on those ports at 8-bits.

That's good info. I was just relaying what my Streaming Stick + said when plugged into a port other than 1.

The Smartcast Amazon app doesn't do HDR yet. We've been waiting on that forever it seems.

Last edited by zeus33; 01-30-2018 at 05:18 PM.
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post #2178 of 3296 Old 01-30-2018, 05:34 PM
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The Smartcast Amazon app doesn't do HDR yet. We've been waiting on that forever it seems.
Yup...I've only had this set since November, and I have been really disappointed that no fix has been made available yet.

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post #2179 of 3296 Old 01-30-2018, 05:42 PM
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Yup...I've only had this set since November, and I have been really disappointed that no fix has been made available yet.
Not really a Vizio thing, they are waiting on Amazon to certify the display.

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post #2180 of 3296 Old 01-31-2018, 07:56 PM
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Not really a Vizio thing, they are waiting on Amazon to certify the display.
yeah regardless of which party to blame, i'm still really disappointed. I know amazon is mostly to blame because I also had the TCL P at one point, and that too had issues with HDR playback through Amazon. Moot point now since I returned the TCL, but I still have the Vizio and I want to be able to play HDR content through its native app.

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post #2181 of 3296 Old 01-31-2018, 09:44 PM
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Mine plays in 2160p through the built-in smartcast on Amazon. You mean it only shows as 1080p for you on Amazon, or just not 4k?
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post #2182 of 3296 Old 01-31-2018, 09:57 PM
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@cb86

Not sure if you were responding to me, but the native amazon app on this set does not currently play HDR content. It streams 4k just fine, but just not HDR.

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post #2183 of 3296 Old 02-01-2018, 12:00 PM
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Quick Question guys, does the M series have a DTV tuner? Can I watch OTA without needing an external tuner?
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post #2184 of 3296 Old 02-01-2018, 12:15 PM
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Quick Question guys, does the M series have a DTV tuner? Can I watch OTA without needing an external tuner?
No tuner built in.

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post #2185 of 3296 Old 02-01-2018, 04:23 PM
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Got an appletv4k. Have it on hdmi1 and all the match frame rate on... but....what is the difference between 4:4:4 vs. 4:2:0 chroma. I can set either option. I don't think I have a 422 option. Googling told me there's no PQ difference, only if you are using as PC??

ALSO, anyone concerned with upscaling traditional cable at 720p or 1080i, do yourself a favor and get DirectvNOW app (not satellite) and have the ATV handle upscaling. I feel like it's a major improvement for upscaling below 1080p (Vizio upscales that great).
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post #2186 of 3296 Old 02-01-2018, 06:27 PM
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Apologies is this has already been asked. I currently have audio out from the tv into my Denon receiver via optical. However, when using the smart cast which should be playing DD audio, the source audio on my receiver doesn't detect Dolby Digital. It just tried to convert the audio to PLII as if it's an analog source. I was surprised there was a digital out to be honest because I've been out of the HT loop for a while. My question is should this be sending a true Dolby Digital signal to my receiver? If not, why even bother having a digital out??
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post #2187 of 3296 Old 02-01-2018, 06:40 PM
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Set the TV to output bitstream, or Dolby D if that doesn't work. (settings/digital audio out)
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post #2188 of 3296 Old 02-01-2018, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mike.s View Post
Set the TV to output bitstream, or Dolby D if that doesn't work. (settings/digital audio out)
Well that was embarrassing..thanks!
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post #2189 of 3296 Old 02-01-2018, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike.s View Post
Set the TV to output bitstream, or Dolby D if that doesn't work. (settings/digital audio out)
Well that was embarrassing..thanks!
It actually reverts back to pcm audio no matter what I set it to as soon as I back out and choose something else. Then once I manually go in and change it it will output DD.
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post #2190 of 3296 Old 02-01-2018, 07:26 PM
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It actually reverts back to pcm audio no matter what I set it to as soon as I back out and choose something else. Then once I manually go in and change it it will output DD.
Sorry, but I only use the TV as a sink. I can only guess that there's an "OK/confirm" which should be done instead of "back out" which is needed to make it stick. Perhaps someone else can advise based on their experience.
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