Originally Posted by *UFO*
You almost got it right. The contrast setting should be thought of as "white level", brightness as "black level", and backlight is the light source for the LCD panel. You want to set contrast to its highest level without clipping the whitest whites. Opposite goes for brightness, you want to set it as low as possible without loosing detail in the darkest blacks. To do this properly you must use a calibration disk, or something like the builtin calibration slides on the xbox one. Also be sure to set HDMI source level accordingly (most likely it should be set to "standard"). As for the backlight, Rtings, as well as most other professional reviewers/calibrators, aim for a peak brightness of 120cd/m2 in SDR content. This can be changed to whatever suits your viewing environment and preferences, and will have no affect (at least not noticeable) on picture contrast. Increasing the backlight will raise the black levels, making them more gray, however it will also increase the brightness of white.
As for this P607, ive been following it for a while and it really seems like the ultimate bargain in LCD right now, and possibly even the best LCD for gaming to ever exist. Wide color gamut, HDR, 4k, low input lag, fast response time, what more could you want? I will for sure be picking up one of these when they come back in stock to use as a gaming display. TCL is obviously out to grab more market share from the big three, and its working.
You're right, but I didn't want to get into an in depth and technical explanation.
It seems that having Contrast at 100 on these TVs is the default, and it doesn't cause any white clipping issues. That is why I recommended setting it at 100.
I set my contrast and brightness using my i1 display pro meter using patterns. On Vizio, Contrast and Brightness are pretty much always spot on at their defaults of 50.
Last I checked, rtings are actually calibrating to 100 nits, but it doesn't really matter what the aim for. Apparently they had to drop backlight down to 0 to get as close to their target as possible.
I also calibrate my displays to 120 nits, because I watch most of my content in the dark. For a lit room I aim for about 150-160 nits, but I rarely use that picture mode.
Higher backlight does raise the black floor, but higher contrast doesn't. Contrast can make the image brighter (regardless of whether clipping occurs or not) or dimmer, but at the expense of the native contrast ratio and the dynamic range of the TV.
I have squeezed considerably more contrast out of my M55-C2 in the latest calibration, this allowed me to drop backlight down to 25 from 32 for the same 120 nits at 100% white. This allows darker blacks while keeping 100% white at the same level.
On FALD sets the raised blacks are not as noticeable as on TVs without it, even though FALD sets do have to drive the LEDs brighter to allow them have fast enough response time to go full brightness when it's necessary. It's really easily noticeable on my M60-D1, since it's IPS. And in HDR (backlight is maxed out) the black bars are mostly just grey.
I agree that all things considered, the TCL P is a better value than the Vizio M 2017, and is a bargain for its performance level.
But after looking at the review, I'm leaning to the M series, though. It seems that the gray uniformity on Vizio is better, and black uniformity is close to perfect (I think my M55-C2 is also close to perfect) and anything less than that would be an annoying downgrade for me. The benefits the TCL offers are not important factors to my personal uses, such as the awesome input lag, as I don't game.