*Official* 2017 TCL P-Series (55P607) Owners Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 63 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1861 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by persiannight View Post
I have a Sypder Pro 5 that I calibrated my Mac with, could i use that? It seems that the software you posted is free? If I download and use my light meter, do I have to hook my Macbook Pro up to the television? What do I use for test patterns? Also, I would assume that I should reset the 11-point adjustments I already put in before I calibrate with this?
Yes you can use Spyder Pro 5, but make sure it is supported by the software.

Read this guide to know what is involved in calibrating a display if you haven't already: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
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post #1862 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by bcatwilly View Post
FYI, I tried watching Glengarry Glen Ross on Showtime through my Comcast Xfinity box, and it looked TERRIBLE with noise and such as you said. This has to be a problem with the source content being poor so that it looks bad on a much better 4K TV or something because I haven't had any other content (have watched a ton of different sources and content) look remotely this poor on the TV which I love.
Good info. Thanks.
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post #1863 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by bcatwilly View Post
FYI, I tried watching Glengarry Glen Ross on Showtime through my Comcast Xfinity box, and it looked TERRIBLE with noise and such as you said. This has to be a problem with the source content being poor so that it looks bad on a much better 4K TV or something because I haven't had any other content (have watched a ton of different sources and content) look remotely this poor on the TV which I love.
Get the Blu-ray. It's super cheap.

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post #1864 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyqureshi View Post
Yes you can use Spyder Pro 5, but make sure it is supported by the software.

Read this guide to know what is involved in calibrating a display if you haven't already: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
I guess a colormunki display could work too, then? I'm actually happy with what I got from just plugging rtings settings in, but I've only had the set for a couple days and just watched a few things on it so far, so eventually I'll probably want to dial the display in for my actual viewing environment.

Last edited by Capek; 07-29-2017 at 03:09 PM.
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post #1865 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jakejm79 View Post
Calibration also depends on the viewing environment too, while they could calibrate for the various changes from panel to panel they can't customize it for your room. I'm not sure how much pro calibration costs, but I can't imagine it is much more than the couple of hundred you say you are happy to pay.


TV changes as it breaks in, the pro calibrators recommend waiting until at least 200 hours of use before bringing them in. A good calibrator will spend 4 to 8 hours working on the set and the costs I've seen are above $400


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post #1866 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 04:21 PM
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I did a quick search and rates started in the $200 range that the person stated they'd happily pay has a premium. You are right break in is also a reason for not calibrating at the factory too.
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post #1867 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyqureshi View Post
Here are my settings with 40 back light, attached is the calibration report.


Code:
TV Brightness	Normal
Picture Mode	Movie
Gamma	2.2
Noise Reduction	Off

Advanced Settings
=============	
Local Contrast	High
Backlight	40
Brightness	50
Contrast	100
Color	45
Color Temp	Warm
Game mode	Off

11 PT WB
=======
	Red	Green	Blue
100%	49	42	-255
90%	36	28	-150
80%	19	6	-155
70%	27	3	-125
60%	23	6	-101
50%	10	2	-95
40%	18	2	-67
30%	19	1	-50
20%	23	-5	-29
10%	33	-15	25
5%	-1	-14	-46

	Color Space		
	Red	Green	Blue
Red	0	3	0
Green	0	0	3
Blue	0	3	20
Cyan	0	8	0
Magenta	34	3	-34
Yellow	6	-6	0
Is your backlight setting of 40 for both NON-HDR and HDR? I've found that color needs to be bumped to 55-65 for HDR content.
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post #1868 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by persiannight View Post
Is your backlight setting of 40 for both NON-HDR and HDR? I've found that color needs to be bumped to 55-65 for HDR content.
Yes 40 for both, it's what I used to calibrate... you can increase the color on your personal preference.

I calibrated my TV by keeping the FALD off, then turned it to HIGH.
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post #1869 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jakejm79 View Post
I did a quick search and rates started in the $200 range that the person stated they'd happily pay has a premium. You are right break in is also a reason for not calibrating at the factory too.


Fair enough my price points are for the top rated calibrators on the forum.


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post #1870 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 04:51 PM
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I dialed in all of Rtings settings, including the 11 pt WB and color space. I think it made an improvement in my fairly dark room. Now my settings are identical to Rtings all across the board, and it's looking really good.

I watched some of Moving Art, Jessica Jones, and other 4K content on Netflix, and was very impressed. The Dolby Vision stuff is especially good. Chef's Table France has this food porn scene early in the first episode that is going to be one of those things I show off to my friends.

I think I'm now going to do as an earlier poster suggested and just enjoy it. I'm unlikely to pop for either a pro calibration or a $250 color meter, so this is it. And it's really amazing to me.

Thanks to all for the suggestions.
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post #1871 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyqureshi View Post
Yes 40 for both, it's what I used to calibrate... you can increase the color on your personal preference.

I calibrated my TV by keeping the FALD off, then turned it to HIGH.
Does increasing color saturation mess with white balance?
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post #1872 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by persiannight View Post
Does increasing color saturation mess with white balance?
A good firmware implementation shouldn't, I think it should be alright. However, increasing/decreasing back light, contrast, gamma, brightness could mess up the white balance.
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post #1873 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 07:32 PM
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https://reviews.lcdtvbuyingguide.com.../tcl-p607.html

Im not understanding this review. Is he saying that this set doesn't have TRUE local dimming? And he knocks it for have a matte screen?
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post #1874 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 07:42 PM
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Also, does clouding get worse over time? My set has a little bit darker corners but I thought this is normal for FALD set.
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post #1875 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by persiannight View Post
https://reviews.lcdtvbuyingguide.com.../tcl-p607.html

Im not understanding this review. Is he saying that this set doesn't have TRUE local dimming? And he knocks it for have a matte screen?
It's obvious he/she doesn't understand all the technology or features of the TV and shouldn't be reviewing it.
Either they didn't know to turn local dimming on or don't understand what it is meant to do, DSE and solid color uniformity issues normally have nothing to do with FALD.
Also they ding it for no numbers on the remote saying it will be an issue for satellite/cable, I'm pretty sure the remote isn't designed to control cable/satellite boxes.
Lack of picture tuning options, I think with the Roku app this TV has just has many if not more adjustments compared to any other TV in its class, the fact that they neglect to mention that app in the review makes it seem like they aren't aware of it.
The whole review is littered with contradictions too:
"Black levels not the deepest, Contrast not great"
"The contrast ratio and black levels surprised to the upside"

Along with all the other errors, the native refresh rate is 60Hz not 120.
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post #1876 of 6367 Old 07-29-2017, 10:05 PM
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The ghosting bug showed up for the second time, 6 days after it happened the first time (BB 55" 605 version). System restart cleared it --- until it happens again. (see my first post in this thread to see pictures of what a ghosted image looks like on my tv)
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post #1877 of 6367 Old 07-30-2017, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by JRG440 View Post
Have had mine for a little over 3 weeks of daily use and I'm now getting an intermittent white flash that fills the entire screen for less than a few milliseconds. Its occurring on all inputs, but seems to happen more frequently while watching in Dolby vision with the built in apps. It's not the local dimming zones bleed through but more resembles a extremely fast single bright white strobe flash on the entire screen. Almost impossible for me to get a picture of since it happens infrequently & random. Will be placing my 1st call into support today.
I just purchased mine from best buy yesterday. Looks great, other than I'm noticing this "white flash" issue. Happened probably 20 times over the course of a 60 minute show on Netflix. What ended up happening after calling support?
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post #1878 of 6367 Old 07-30-2017, 09:37 AM
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The ghosting bug showed up for the second time, 6 days after it happened the first time (BB 55" 605 version). System restart cleared it --- until it happens again. (see my first post in this thread to see pictures of what a ghosted image looks like on my tv)
You have to turn noise reduction off in the Roku TV app for smart devices. You cannot disable it without the app and you cannot do a full calibration either.

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post #1879 of 6367 Old 07-30-2017, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by waterm3732 View Post
The ghosting bug showed up for the second time, 6 days after it happened the first time (BB 55" 605 version). System restart cleared it --- until it happens again. (see my first post in this thread to see pictures of what a ghosted image looks like on my tv)
I just had it happen a third time, was hoping that the firmware update would fix it but I guess not :'( it seems to be happening a lot more frequently with this new update....

Last edited by teufel; 07-30-2017 at 10:58 AM.
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post #1880 of 6367 Old 07-30-2017, 12:27 PM
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Saw a couple of the white flashes today. No rhyme or reason to it. This was via an XBOX ONE S on HDMI 2. Wonder if it's something to do with the local dimming algorithm or HDMI inputs. Don't think I've seen it via streaming through the Roku OS.
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post #1881 of 6367 Old 07-30-2017, 03:17 PM
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Do manufactures give stores superior panels for display units? I was just at Target and looking at the TCLs there, the S405 units, which I have one in my bedroom, and literally no dark corners, no DSE. Actually all the units there didnt display any irregularitys like that. Is this a thing manufacturers do? Very deceptive. Both my S405 and P605 have darkers corners and DSE.
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post #1882 of 6367 Old 07-30-2017, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by persiannight View Post
Do manufactures give stores superior panels for display units? I was just at Target and looking at the TCLs there, the S405 units, which I have one in my bedroom, and literally no dark corners, no DSE. Actually all the units there didnt display any irregularitys like that. Is this a thing manufacturers do? Very deceptive. Both my S405 and P605 have darkers corners and DSE.
Not sure but who knows, however all TVs look great in-store, all of them are set to highest/vivid picture settings. With bright lights all over the store, it's hard to see what the black levels are like or if there is any light bleed (unless extreme light bleed).
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post #1883 of 6367 Old 07-30-2017, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by persiannight View Post
Do manufactures give stores superior panels for display units? I was just at Target and looking at the TCLs there, the S405 units, which I have one in my bedroom, and literally no dark corners, no DSE. Actually all the units there didnt display any irregularitys like that. Is this a thing manufacturers do? Very deceptive. Both my S405 and P605 have darkers corners and DSE.


It's mostly the lighting. With extremely bright fluorescents and the TV set to super bright/vivid the dark corners would be very hard to see.


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post #1884 of 6367 Old 07-30-2017, 05:55 PM
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Just experienced another flash via XBOX One S streaming via HDMI 2. I have noticed that after the flash the stream/video freeze for a second or two ,almost like a hiccup and then it picks back up. Wonder if this is an HDMI port issue we're experiencing.
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post #1885 of 6367 Old 07-30-2017, 08:07 PM
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Regarding Picture Flashing

When I first connected Nvidia shield tv, and tried to set the color space to VCbCr 4:2:2 12-bit Rec. 2020, the TV started flashing like crazy. I decided to try a different HDMI cable and the flashing disappeared. HDMI 2.0a is certainly sensitive to the quality of the cable.

Try a shielded HDMI cable, the picture flashing should disappear.
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post #1886 of 6367 Old 07-30-2017, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by PonsArak View Post
Not sure if anyone can offer up any suggestions of things to try.

Been a happy TCL p607 owner since the orders first went up on amazon.
With last nights firmware update, it seems to have broken ARC between my tv and my Denon S530BT. Nothing I have tried has been able to fix it.

Tried power cycling both. Tried unplugging hdmi cables between the two and reseating.
Ultimately did a full factory reset on both the TV and the Receiver.
Set everything back up, made sure HDMI CEC is turned on in both the Denon and the TCL, TCL still won't detect the arc connection to receiver (verified it is plugged into the correct HDMI receiver connector).

Everything else seems to be working fine with the new firmware 7.7.0 build 4111. Except for ARC. I actually had the tv on and running, while I was in the other room, and the ARC was operating fine until immediately after 7.7.0 build 4111 got pulled down automatically.

Is there a manual way to pull down the last firmware. Not that that would do me much good considering the tv would just auto update again...

Really didn't want to have to contact TCL support on my limited time off, but don't see what choice I have.
FYI in case anyone ran into the above issue, I figured it out.

I, about 10-12 hours prior to the firmware coming down to my TV, added a rasberry pi/retro pie device to my hdmi 1 port on my tv. Everything was fine until my tv rebooted/firmware updated 12 hours or so later.

Hence why I was sure something in the firmware borked something with ARC, but no one else seemed to be having this issue.

Well it turns out, I did some further troubleshooting, and when I removed the retro pie from Hdmi1 on the P607, it allowed to CEC list in the tv to detect my receiver again. So to further research the issue, I added the retropie back to hdmi1, and everything worked fine, UNTIL my tv was powered off and then back on and then I was back to the problem in my original post. Something with the retropie on hdmi1 or 2, is taking over and keeping cec from working properly on hdmi3 on the tv. I have recreated the issue multiple times in my testing.

Hope this helps anyone else that may have ran into this issue with the p607 and receivers and rasberrypi/retropie devices. It was a doozy.
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post #1887 of 6367 Old 07-30-2017, 09:09 PM
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Is dse and dark corners pretty normal for this tv ? Wondering if I should take it back to get another panel . watching baseball games is really noticible on the dse . All white screens i have dark spots towards the corners
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post #1888 of 6367 Old 07-30-2017, 09:54 PM
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Dark corners are almost on all LCD TVs
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post #1889 of 6367 Old 07-31-2017, 08:37 AM
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What about banding and dse ?
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post #1890 of 6367 Old 07-31-2017, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PonsArak View Post
FYI in case anyone ran into the above issue, I figured it out.

I, about 10-12 hours prior to the firmware coming down to my TV, added a rasberry pi/retro pie device to my hdmi 1 port on my tv. Everything was fine until my tv rebooted/firmware updated 12 hours or so later.

Hence why I was sure something in the firmware borked something with ARC, but no one else seemed to be having this issue.

Well it turns out, I did some further troubleshooting, and when I removed the retro pie from Hdmi1 on the P607, it allowed to CEC list in the tv to detect my receiver again. So to further research the issue, I added the retropie back to hdmi1, and everything worked fine, UNTIL my tv was powered off and then back on and then I was back to the problem in my original post. Something with the retropie on hdmi1 or 2, is taking over and keeping cec from working properly on hdmi3 on the tv. I have recreated the issue multiple times in my testing.

Hope this helps anyone else that may have ran into this issue with the p607 and receivers and rasberrypi/retropie devices. It was a doozy.
I had a similar issue with a box running Libreelec, unplugging and plugging it back in got my ARC audio working again.
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