Originally Posted by KwizatZ
If you have access to expert picture settings (ie gamma etc) then you are already out of PC mode, which means your input isn't labelled "PC", otherwise rename it like in my previous post.
Input lag doesn't change between PC and non-PC mode, only game mode reduce it (with non great black issues like you said).
My advice is just to use game mode for demanding games like fps and not use it for games you want the best picture. I use standard mode for most of my games and it's fine to me. I only switch to game mode and [email protected]
for fps and shooters, as it's way more important than picture quality. I also noticed that auto game mode on my PS4 just ruined dimming (in SDR games), I don't know why, because turning auto switch off and manually switching to game mode solved the issue.
I disagree, I notice the difference in input lag between PC Mode and non-PC Mode.. this is why half the processing is turned off as using a PC with a TV requires low input lag, otherwise even the mouse and keyboard and feel laggy. When gaming or even just using the mouse I do personally see the difference, it's night and day for me.
I prefer using the TV at the native 3840x2160 @ 60hz, higher refresh rates are quite nice but it's all about adaptation, and 60hz is smooth, it just doesn't seem smooth in comparison to 120hz when you've adjusted, I think 3840x2160 is a pretty good threshold for pixel density on TV's and once we can do that comfortably then I'd like to move up in refresh rate, this is coming from someone who's using 2x different high refresh rate monitors and really enjoys it, both 16:9 and 21:9. It's personal preference at the end of the day (and I'm a graphics whore)..
Originally Posted by SeanZCT
Just to add to this as I tested game mode vs standard/movie mode in hdr a while back. Think it comes down to 2 things:
1) Game mode local dimming is def worse so blacks aren't as good.
2) Standard/movie mode actually overbrighten the image (confirmed by reviewers that Samsung doesn't track EOTF). When I calibrated hdr game mode using in game hdr settings that specify nits, my light meter in game mode closely tracked the nits. So if the game said 700 nits, my light meter read around 700 nits in game mode. The other modes would sometimes read up to 50% higher in some scenes.....Max I ever saw was around 70% in one test, with the average difference around 30% in typical scenes. In dark scenes with one bright highlight, game mode highlights can actually be brighter due to the aggressive local dimming in dark scenes.
I agree with the recommendation. The extra punch in other modes is great (along with the inky blacks) so I use standard or movie mode for games that don't require quick inputs, and switch to game mode for fast paced shooting or driving games.
This may also be why hdr game mode doesn't overbrighten. If it ramped up the brightness to match the other modes the blacks would look even worse..... It's probably a good compromise, although the ideal solution would be full local dimming that could keep up with the low input lag. That's probably not possible without Samsung investing in faster chips.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
1. Agreed, but I also experience this in PC Mode too, I find the 2 modes very similar in performance, however I enable Game Mode on top of PC Mode, one is a source type and the other is a feature.
Enabling Game Mode on Home Theatre source type for example gives different results, still not ideal.
2. Yes I know about the overbrightened EOTF curve, the clipping isn't very good though and should be handled differently. Thanks for the measurements though!
It's hard to say if Movie Mode is brighter than PC Mode simply because of this, and PC Mode is actually more accurate, however during pattern testing with PC Mode I was seeing clipping at only 500-600nits which is unacceptable and when calibrating in game to avoid clipping the brightness as a result only gets set to 500-600nits tops which is crap, otherwise I get overblown highlights with lots of details missing. Using Movie Mode this works properly atleast and I can use the TV as it was designed..
I think we're both on the same page, the word compromise says it all, Samsung has compromised the PC Mode to get the low input lag, by castrating the benefits of the TV (bright peak nits and inky blacks) which is a huge problem for me considering it's my do-it-all PC monitor, and I paid a pretty penny for it.
I am attempting a refund, provided I've had it for 7 months and this is covered by Australian Consumer Law, the OLED's would be the ideal candidate but I'm still not comfortable with them just yet, unless maybe I set my display timeout for 1-2 minutes when my PC is not used, however we still have in-use scenarios to worry about then.
There are some dedicated PC TV's coming out in the near future I can keep an eye out on, but for now a monitor is probably ideal. ASUS and Acer have these killer 1000nit displays with 384 local dimming zones and DCI-P3 support at 27" 4K and 144hz, but I think I might wait some more years for the tech to mature as those monitors are expensive too.
See what happens I guess.