TCL 65" 6-Series 4K HDR TV First Look & Review - Page 240 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #7171 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by EdT586 View Post
I don't know why TCL does not include Auto, On, Off in their speaker options like some other brands. Currently with TCL TVs the speaker turns off when you plug the headphones 3.5mm plug in and back on again when unplugged (aka: Auto). This causes wear and tear on the 3.5mm plug if you keep doing this on a daily basis. If it has the option for the speakers to be permanently on then even with the 3.5mm plug still plugged in there is still audio to the speakers and you would simply press mute to silence the speakers and still have audio for the headphones as well as avoid setting this in the audio menu every time which is troublesome for those not comfortable in going into the menu setup.
I also use the headphone jack to power some bookshelves with a small amp. Don't use it all the time and the only way I have found ti disable it is to pull the jack out. I agree some other option would be nice.

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post #7172 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 12:12 PM
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That does sound discouraging that you have to constantly pullout the 3.5mm plug? Not something to fix with a firmware update either I imagine.
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post #7173 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 12:36 PM
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I also use the headphone jack to power some bookshelves with a small amp. Don't use it all the time and the only way I have found ti disable it is to pull the jack out. I agree some other option would be nice.
Since you already have an amp then a DAC with no volume control is the best solution. I have this exact set up on one my TVs since I already have a headphone amp. https://www.amazon.ca/Neoteck-Alumin...gateway&sr=8-7

TCL 4 Series 50" / 6 Series 65"
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post #7174 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 12:44 PM
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That does sound discouraging that you have to constantly pullout the 3.5mm plug? Not something to fix with a firmware update either I imagine.
A firmware update can fix it, it depends on the type of 3.5mm jack used(NC/NO) and how the circuit is physically connected to the speakers. On my 32" Toshiba I can have audio to both the speakers and the 3.5mm jack when I set the speaker option to ON and mute the speakers with the MUTE button on the remote or only feed audio to the 3.5mm jack in the AUTO and OFF settings with the speakers off.

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post #7175 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by EdT586 View Post
Since you already have an amp then a DAC with no volume control is the best solution. I have this exact set up on one my TVs since I already have a headphone amp. https://www.amazon.ca/Neoteck-Alumin...gateway&sr=8-7
What would I gain? The amp already works fine, would I not still need to pull the plug out every time to not use the bookshelves?

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post #7176 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 12:59 PM
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What would I gain? The amp already works fine, would I not still need to pull the plug out every time to not use the bookshelves?
You would use the Toslink S/PDIF output from your TV to the DAC and then connect the DAC to your amp. You will not need to use the 3.5mm jack at all. To shut off the speakers simply press MUTE on the remote and you can use your amp or use the TV's speakers by pressing MUTE again.


DAC without volume control



DAC with volume control


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Last edited by EdT586; 09-30-2019 at 01:11 PM.
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post #7177 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdT586 View Post
I don't know why TCL does not include Auto, On, Off in their speaker options like some other brands. Currently with TCL TVs the speaker turns off when you plug the headphones 3.5mm plug in and back on again when unplugged (aka: Auto). This causes wear and tear on the 3.5mm plug if you keep doing this on a daily basis. If it has the option for the speakers to be permanently on then even with the 3.5mm plug still plugged in there is still audio to the speakers and you would simply press mute to silence the speakers and still have audio for the headphones as well as avoid setting this in the audio menu every time which is troublesome for those not comfortable in going into the menu setup.
TCL is a great value. 6 or higher series have spectacular images..... but the UI is hideous. It's too bad because a good UI is no more expensive than a poor one.

Can't have everything I guess.

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post #7178 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 01:33 PM
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TCL is a great value. 6 or higher series have spectacular images..... but the UI is hideous. It's too bad because a good UI is no more expensive than a poor one.

Can't have everything I guess.

Pip

UI is Roku TV, TCL has nothing to do with the UI as it is not proprietary to TCL !

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post #7179 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by EdT586 View Post
You would use the Toslink S/PDIF output from your TV to the DAC and then connect the DAC to your amp. You will not need to use the 3.5mm jack at all. To shut off the speakers simply press MUTE on the remote and you can use your amp or use the TV's speakers by pressing MUTE again.


DAC without volume control

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SSb7tmAsvc


DAC with volume control

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEN4SBNdufw
Ah ok that makes sense, thanks for the info.

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post #7180 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by EdT586 View Post
https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Converter-Digital-Coaxial-Toslink/dp/B01N07LYON/

You would use the Toslink S/PDIF output from your TV to the DAC and then connect the DAC to your amp. You will not need to use the 3.5mm jack at all.
Interesting. I currently have my 49" in the master bedroom hooked into a vintage Nakamichi TA-3A stereo receiver via the 3.5mm jack. Mmmmm.....

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post #7181 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 03:23 PM
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TCL is a great value. 6 or higher series have spectacular images..... but the UI is hideous. It's too bad because a good UI is no more expensive than a poor one.

Can't have everything I guess.

Pip
?? The UI is Roku. It is great. It's much, much better than the UI on most other TVs. And it's extremely fast too.

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post #7182 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 03:49 PM
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?? The UI is Roku. It is great. It's much, much better than the UI on most other TVs. And it's extremely fast too.
...and so many hidden undocumented features if you look into it as well !
aaronwt likes this.

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post #7183 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 03:57 PM
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Interesting. I currently have my 49" in the master bedroom hooked into a vintage Nakamichi TA-3A stereo receiver via the 3.5mm jack. Mmmmm.....

So I guess your using a 3.5mm plug to RCA L+R Y cable to connect to your Nakamichi TA-3A ?
The thing with that is that the volume is not fixed with the 3.5mm jack on your TV and your amp isn't getting the full audio output since if you lower the volume on the TV it will also lower the output volume to the amp.

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post #7184 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 04:03 PM
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So I guess your using a 3.5mm plug to RCA L+R Y cable to connect to your Nakamichi TA-3A ?
The thing with that is that the volume is not fixed with the 3.5mm jack on your TV and your amp isn't getting the full audio output since if you lower the volume on the TV it will also lower the output volume to the amp.
Yup that's how I'm doing it. And ironically some time ago in this thread I complained that I had to set the TCL volume quite high to get the same output volume I get from other equipment also run through the Nak. Never found specs on the mV output from the 3.5mm jack. Never looked at the S/PDIF.

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post #7185 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 04:03 PM
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?? The UI is Roku. It is great. It's much, much better than the UI on most other TVs. And it's extremely fast too.
I agree, its way better than my Samsung. And you can have it default to a specific input so you never have to see it.

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post #7186 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 04:26 PM
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A neat way to see all the info is to use this little neat trick on Roku TVs: Make sure your Roku TV and PC, tablet or smartphone is connected on the same network. Open the browser and enter the following URL http://xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx:8060/query/tv-active-channel (xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx = Your Roku TV's IP found in Settings>Network>About)
Thanks, I tried this while playing a program with the Fox Sports App, but there is no video information:
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" ?>
<tv-channel>
<channel/>
</tv-channel>

Is there a different URL I can try?
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post #7187 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 04:33 PM
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Yup that's how I'm doing it. And ironically some time ago in this thread I complained that I had to set the TCL volume quite high to get the same output volume I get from other equipment also run through the Nak. Never found specs on the mV output from the 3.5mm jack. Never looked at the S/PDIF.
I was quite surprised to even find a 3.5mm jack on the TCL. Mostly only TVs up to 32" have a 3.5mm jack, larger TVs only have S/PDIF now and some older models have the RCA L+F audio out. Get the DAC without the volume control since you are using an amp. They usually go around @$12-$15usd on Amazon.

TCL 4 Series 50" / 6 Series 65"

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post #7188 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 04:37 PM
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Thanks, I tried this while playing a program with the Fox Sports App, but there is no video information:
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" ?>
<tv-channel>
<channel/>
</tv-channel>

Is there a different URL I can try?
Then that network/channel is not using the standard PSID transmisson. The CBC is also one of culprits where the the Signal Quality and Signal Strength data is missing.
Oh I just read this is for an app ? This is for OTA broadcasts.

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post #7189 of 7789 Old 09-30-2019, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by EdT586 View Post
I was quite surprised to even find a 3.5mm jack on the TCL. Mostly only TVs up to 32" have a 3.5mm jack, larger TVs only have S/PDIF now and some older models have the RCA L+F audio out. Get the DAC without the volume control since you are using an amp. They usually go around @$12-$15usd on Amazon.
I should have noted that 1989 vintage Nak receiver doesn't have a S/PDIF input which is why it was off my radar!

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If you want to use headphones with your set, I strongly recommend you get a DAC or DAC with a built in amp and connect it to the Toslink S/PDIF audio out on your set instead. Will be much cheaper and better audio quality and no battery drain ! https://www.amazon.com/Converter-eSy...ateway&sr=8-15
I’ve tried that method. The volume is not loud enough using BT connection (my hearing loss is bad) and don’t want headphone wires across floor. Also, the apple headphones that come with the iPhones work great with the Roku remote getting far enough into my ear canal to allow some hearing of programming which, along with captions, really increase my enjoyment of programs and sports.

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post #7191 of 7789 Old 10-02-2019, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdT586 View Post
I don't know why TCL does not include Auto, On, Off in their speaker options like some other brands. ... This causes wear and tear on the 3.5mm plug ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by EdT586 View Post
UI is Roku TV, TCL has nothing to do with the UI as it is not proprietary to TCL !
I thought you first post above made a good point. Perhaps you meant to say "you don't know why Roku does not include Auto, On, Off..."

Quote:
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?? The UI is Roku. It is great. It's much, much better than the UI on most other TVs. And it's extremely fast too.
Scrolling through menus to access the sleep timer? Same for changing global picture settings? (Dark, bright, etc.) Same for choosing inputs? Other manufacturer's provide easier access and more options (such as the audio options to which EdT was referring).

I want to be clear that I'm only talking about the UI which controls the TV, not the Roku smart TV UI. Roku TV vs. other smart TV interfaces is a separate topic, and I think the general consensus is that Roku TV is one of the best.

I also want to keep this in context. Although I've found the TV control issues (let's not say UI) frustrating, I've still traded my other brands and chosen TCL for both of my TVs. I find the value TCL provides well worth these sacrifices. In addition, short of OLED, I recommend TCL to everyone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EdT586 View Post
...and so many hidden undocumented features if you look into it as well !
Please enlighten us, or at least point us where to look.

Thank you

Pip

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post #7192 of 7789 Old 10-02-2019, 01:59 PM
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My local Costco has the 65 inch marked down to $639.

I was holding out for the newer model that is being released, but after reading about all the problems with it, now I am wondering if I'd be better off with this one.

Has the "panel lottery" been addressed now?
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post #7193 of 7789 Old 10-02-2019, 02:05 PM
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I want to be clear that I'm only talking about the UI which controls the TV, not the Roku smart TV UI. Roku TV vs. other smart TV interfaces is a separate topic, and I think the general consensus is that Roku TV is one of the best.
How can you separate the two?

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post #7194 of 7789 Old 10-02-2019, 03:50 PM
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How can you separate the two?
There are two parts to the interface: One controls streaming functions, and the other controls the display functions.

The ROKU TV "smart tv" UI is available on any TV. Just attach an external Roku box or stick. This part - the streaming apps and streaming experience, is largely perceived as one of the best compared to other systems.

The other part of the UI (with TCL and Hisense TVs) controls the operation of the display itself. I think that part could use some work. Example: Is not even possible to turn off video noise reduction without downloading an app to your phone.

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Please enlighten us, or at least point us where to look.
Thank you
Pip

For one if you download the Roku TV Android app in the PlayStore there are other settings that are not available in the sets UI to calibrate the TV's picture like gamma etc... which is required for a professional calibration.


Next you can also use an URL link to access info such as Signal Strength and Signal Quality that otherwise would not be visible on the set. I am sure there are more URL hacks that I haven't come across yet.

http://xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx:8060/query/tv-active-channel (xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx is the IP address of your set in Settings>Network) Make sure your set, PC, tablet or smartphone is on the same network for it to work.


That annoying blinking power LED issue is actually another TCL feature that is not documented or is known even to TCL support staff, a blinking LED actually indicates that your internet is no longer connected to your TV or the password is incorrect. This is a feature that has plagued TCL because many have returned their sets thinking it was defective ! ...LoL


...and the more popular the set there are already people or reviewers who paid for professional calibration and they will list the Picture Setting info you can use.
https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/tc...-2019/settings

TCL 4 Series 50" / 6 Series 65"
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For one if you download the Roku TV Android app in the PlayStore there are other settings that are not available in the sets UI to calibrate the TV's picture like gamma etc... which is required for a professional calibration....

a blinking LED actually indicates that your internet is no longer connected to your TV or the password is incorrect...

...and the more popular the set there are already people or reviewers who paid for professional calibration and they will list the Picture Setting info you can use.
https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/tc...-2019/settings
Thanks.

I do have the app and have used it for calibration. It is very convenient for that. Never knew about this blinking LED.

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Quote:
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I thought you first post above made a good point. Perhaps you meant to say "you don't know why Roku does not include Auto, On, Off..."







Scrolling through menus to access the sleep timer? Same for changing global picture settings? (Dark, bright, etc.) Same for choosing inputs? Other manufacturer's provide easier access and more options (such as the audio options to which EdT was referring).



I want to be clear that I'm only talking about the UI which controls the TV, not the Roku smart TV UI. Roku TV vs. other smart TV interfaces is a separate topic, and I think the general consensus is that Roku TV is one of the best.



I also want to keep this in context. Although I've found the TV control issues (let's not say UI) frustrating, I've still traded my other brands and chosen TCL for both of my TVs. I find the value TCL provides well worth these sacrifices. In addition, short of OLED, I recommend TCL to everyone.







Please enlighten us, or at least point us where to look.



Thank you



Pip
The TCL TV UI is much better than my Sony UHD TV and LG HDTV. And better than my old Samsung and Mitsubishi DLP sets were too.

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post #7198 of 7789 Old 10-03-2019, 05:59 PM
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Wonder how long I'll have to wait for 65R625 to be available in Canada. Costco here has the 2018 model on sale and I do need a TV soon, just painful to buy the old model when the new one is out.

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post #7199 of 7789 Old 10-04-2019, 09:08 AM
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Don't know if anybody has seen this issue, but here goes:

I have a 2018 R65r617. Standard 4K SDR works fine, 4K Dolby Vision works fine.

However, whenever I play a movie in standard HDR on my Apple TV, my previously selected settings: 'Normal HDR' always come out dim.

But here's the weird part: if I take the remote and manually switch to either 'dark' or bright' HDR and switch back to 'Normal HDR' the settings are EXACTLY how they should be displayed and not dim at all.

I'm happy that I can always 'fix' it-- but its a bit tedious when all other formats recover the correct settings automatically.

I've done a full factory reset with no effect. Any ideas?

Is there a way to possibly disable HDR10, but keep the ability for DV? (I don't want DV on SDR content however)

I've always thought this has been a firmware issue, but nobody else seems to be reporting it
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post #7200 of 7789 Old 10-04-2019, 03:36 PM
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Any one compare the vizio M 558 quantum dot to the TCL 55R17? They both look great in store, and close in price.
lizrussspike is offline  
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