2018 Sony XBR-900F owners settings thread - Page 19 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #541 of 768 Old 05-15-2019, 04:29 PM
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I turned my tv on today and noticed the picture is not as sharp. I have Fios and am noticing it a lot on baseball score boxes and the guide. I don’t know if it’s the tv or fios.
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post #542 of 768 Old 05-15-2019, 08:29 PM
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What is the recommended settings for Freeview signal? Also, is anyone using an HTPC connected to this TV and is running on 1080p at 120hz? Does it require a different video setting?
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post #543 of 768 Old 05-16-2019, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CrashAndBurnNZ View Post
What is the recommended settings for Freeview signal? Also, is anyone using an HTPC connected to this TV and is running on 1080p at 120hz? Does it require a different video setting?
I run my X900F at 120Hz, using Windows Media Center on Windows 7 64 bit. I was able to get 1080p 120Hz working as a custom profile in both my Intel iGPU as well as my Nvidia GT1030 GPU. I find that 120Hz works best for 24p content, as with VLC setting the TV to 23/24Hz would introduce loss of audio sync over a few minutes, which really annoyed me. It's nice to just run at 120Hz and not have to touch the output settings between TV shows and movies.

And you must set a custom resolution on your GPU control panel of 120Hz, as the TV itself will not report itself as 120Hz, because devices will read that data and try to accept it and that could cause auto 120Hz issues on less than quality HDMI cables resulting in loss of picture and people freaking out.

Paul

Sony X900F SDR and HDR Calibrations https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post57551552
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post #544 of 768 Old 05-16-2019, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptinCrunch View Post
@Anderegg

Paul,

I found your purple clouds in episode 1 just before the dry lake part, and here's what I get. I wasn't seeing the purple clouds and blown out highlights because I was using colour expert 2 which is your bt.1886 settings. When I switched to Expert 1 and added in your HDR10 settings I got the purple clouds and blown hightlights.

I lose track of which settings I have on which input for which type of viewing, so I went back through everything and wrote it down, again...lol

So basically I am using just 2 setups, My settings on Cinema Pro/Ex1 (Antenna/Blu-rays) and your bt.1886 on Cinema Home/Ex2 (HDR/Streaming). IMO, your 1886 settings work better for HDR/DV over the other settings and they maintain the brightness for HDR. I actually went back and forth between the 2 on several of the episodes of Our Planet and the 1886 setting looked better on my set with no funky colours and blow outs of highlights.



Yeah, I need to go back and rework the upper end a bit, take a little luminance out of the upper end of the curve and just concentrate on making sure the RGB balance is solid. The very upper end of the HDR luminance and specular highlights is the only place I see any issues so far, the lower range seems dead on.

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Originally Posted by rafffster View Post
Just curious, when you say your settings on Cinema Pro, do you mean the 2 point settings you posted several months ago? I had tried using those for a little while before switching over to Paul's bt.1886 settings, but I'm not sure which I prefer (the difference is so small, yours are deeper and cooler, Paul's are a little brighter and slightly greener). Was just curious if you had abandoned those or were still using them. I'm finding that Paul's bt.1886 is nice but seems a tad blown out on the highlights with the contrast at max for SDR content (been experimenting with it at 98)... but I haven't ran the gamut of viewing yet, and it might be that the sources aren't great.
Running the TV through Calman contrast checker, the clipping was always at 100, no matter what I set the contrast to. I will be doing so PC levels testing soon to determine the clipping at above video levels with various contrast settings. If you lower the contrast, you will also slightly alter your gamma, which is why if you run the TV at a brighter backlight setting, you may see a cleaner image, because gamma is basically signal amplification. Less amplification, less noise, less gamma, less amplification, less noise. I don't see any real disadvantage to raising or lowering contrast, as long as you don't lower it so low that the image begins to look washed out.

Paul
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post #545 of 768 Old 05-16-2019, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Anderegg View Post
I run my X900F at 120Hz, using Windows Media Center on Windows 7 64 bit. I was able to get 1080p 120Hz working as a custom profile in both my Intel iGPU as well as my Nvidia GT1030 GPU. I find that 120Hz works best for 24p content, as with VLC setting the TV to 23/24Hz would introduce loss of audio sync over a few minutes, which really annoyed me. It's nice to just run at 120Hz and not have to touch the output settings between TV shows and movies.

And you must set a custom resolution on your GPU control panel of 120Hz, as the TV itself will not report itself as 120Hz, because devices will read that data and try to accept it and that could cause auto 120Hz issues on less than quality HDMI cables resulting in loss of picture and people freaking out.

Paul
I have been running on 120hz for sometime now. What I noticed though is occasionally the signal seems to reconnect/refresh. Not sure what the proper term is but what happens is the video does not disappear but a pop-up showing which resolution am running on displays randomly. I also noticed that it keeps defaulting to graphics settings?
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post #546 of 768 Old 05-16-2019, 06:43 PM
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Check your cable, maybe check your custom resolution setting.

You should be selecting one of the newer signal formats, not ones meant for CRT's and such.

Paul

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Originally Posted by CrashAndBurnNZ View Post
I have been running on 120hz for sometime now. What I noticed though is occasionally the signal seems to reconnect/refresh. Not sure what the proper term is but what happens is the video does not disappear but a pop-up showing which resolution am running on displays randomly. I also noticed that it keeps defaulting to graphics settings?

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post #547 of 768 Old 05-16-2019, 06:59 PM
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New calibrations for may 16 2019

Brand new better SDR and HDR calibrations are available in my signature link below. New and improved HDR calibration includes less purple green clouds

HDR10 (Dolby Vision set contrast to Max) <-NEW May 16, 2019!!!!
Cinema Pro
Expert 1
Brightness Max *
Contrast 92 *
Gamma 0
Black level 50
LD High *
X-tended Medium *
Color 50
Hue 0

2 Point
R-Gain Max
G-Gain -5
B-Gain -5
R-Bias -2
G-Bias 2
B-Bias -5

10 Point Expert 1
Point 1 2 0 -5
Point 2 -6 -5 -1
Point 3 -7 -7 -6
Point 4 -7 -8 -8
Point 5 -6 -4 -4
Point 6 -4 -4 -4
Point 7 0 0 0
Point 8 0 0 -4
Point 9 0 0 -2
Point 10 0 0 0

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post #548 of 768 Old 05-17-2019, 12:36 AM
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I’m hoping you guys can help me. just got the x900f and finished setting it up. I have my pc with An nvidia 1080ti hooked up to hdmi 2. I’ve also tried hdmi 3 but that’s where my avr will be connected so after verifying the same problem on hdmi 3 I connected the pc back to hdmi 2.

When I set the external inputs to hdmi enhanced I get a grey screen and no signal message in the bottom right corner of the screen.

People in another thread keep mentioning hdmi cables. But I used the same cables with a vizio 2016 m series and vizio p quantum and they worked fine for 4K 60hz hdr and enhanced hdmi enabled on both vizio’s. I even got 1080p 120hz hdr with the same cables on the vizio.






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post #549 of 768 Old 05-17-2019, 01:07 AM
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Well, the cables still "might" be the issue, you never know. When you set HDMI enhanced, the TV requests the HDMI driver device to send 4K 60Hz, but your equipment is able to handle that, just unclear if the cable is not liking some specific RGB 12 bit etc Nvidia setting that it is getting...bandwidtth wise I mean.

Try this...add Chrome Remote desktop to your computer (Chrome extension, it's OEM not randomware), then when the screen goes grey and loses signal, remote into your PC from another computer so you can see the Nvidia control panel, and mess with the settings until the X900F blinks back to life. I run 4K 60Hz 422 10 bit limited and RGB 8 bit from my 1080 Ti no issues, even with a 15 foot Monoprice cable.

Fun factoid, my Sony 590 AVR will not pass 4K at 8 bit RGB full levels...even though it has Dolby Vision and a 4K 60Hz 4:4:4 gold sticker on it.

Paul

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Originally Posted by klipsch123 View Post
I’m hoping you guys can help me. just got the x900f and finished setting it up. I have my pc with An nvidia 1080ti hooked up to hdmi 2. I’ve also tried hdmi 3 but that’s where my avr will be connected so after verifying the same problem on hdmi 3 I connected the pc back to hdmi 2.

When I set the external inputs to hdmi enhanced I get a grey screen and no signal message in the bottom right corner of the screen.

People in another thread keep mentioning hdmi cables. But I used the same cables with a vizio 2016 m series and vizio p quantum and they worked fine for 4K 60hz hdr and enhanced hdmi enabled on both vizio’s. I even got 1080p 120hz hdr with the same cables on the vizio.






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Sony X900F SDR and HDR Calibrations https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post57551552

Last edited by Anderegg; 05-17-2019 at 01:10 AM.
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post #550 of 768 Old 05-17-2019, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Anderegg View Post
Well, the cables still "might" be the issue, you never know. When you set HDMI enhanced, the TV requests the HDMI driver device to send 4K 60Hz, but your equipment is able to handle that, just unclear if the cable is not liking some specific RGB 12 bit etc Nvidia setting that it is getting...bandwidtth wise I mean.



Try this...add Chrome Remote desktop to your computer (Chrome extension, it's OEM not randomware), then when the screen goes grey and loses signal, remote into your PC from another computer so you can see the Nvidia control panel, and mess with the settings until the X900F blinks back to life. I run 4K 60Hz 422 10 bit limited and RGB 8 bit from my 1080 Ti no issues, even with a 15 foot Monoprice cable.



Fun factoid, my Sony 590 AVR will not pass 4K at 8 bit RGB full levels...even though it has Dolby Vision and a 4K 60Hz 4:4:4 gold sticker on it.



Paul


Figured it out guess everyone was right. I recently installed a vertical pcie bracket into my case which came with an angled hdmi adapter from CableMod. I cut up my pc case and connected the hdmi cable directly to the hdmi port on the 1080ti now it works. Strange because I didn’t have to do this with either of the vizios.


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post #551 of 768 Old 05-17-2019, 06:04 PM
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@Anderegg or anybody really, can someone tell me what the 1:1 value is on this tv's settings when it comes to the gamma?

Does 1.8 = (min, -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, max)?
Does 2.2 = (min, -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, max)?
Does 2.4 = (min, -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, max)?
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post #552 of 768 Old 05-19-2019, 05:07 AM
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@Anderegg . Would you post your calibration settings from right before these newest ones? The new SDR settings look good on my TiVo/Charter Cable but don’t look nearly as good as they did on your prior settings for apps, HDR 10 and Dolby Vision. Thank you.


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post #553 of 768 Old 05-19-2019, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by DreMarceaux View Post
@Anderegg or anybody really, can someone tell me what the 1:1 value is on this tv's settings when it comes to the gamma?

Does 1.8 = (min, -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, max)?
Does 2.2 = (min, -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, max)?
Does 2.4 = (min, -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, max)?
That's impossible to say, as different X900F's apparently seem to have variances in what stock gamma they will register. On my X900F, 0 is 2.2 (sRGB power law gamma), and every step + or - 1 will change the 2.2 to 2.1 or 2.3 etc...roughly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrippe View Post
@Anderegg . Would you post your calibration settings from right before these newest ones? The new SDR settings look good on my TiVo/Charter Cable but don’t look nearly as good as they did on your prior settings for apps, HDR 10 and Dolby Vision. Thank you.


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You shouldn't be using the BT.1886 SDR on HDR or Dolby Vision.
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post #554 of 768 Old 05-19-2019, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Anderegg View Post







You shouldn't be using the BT.1886 SDR on HDR or Dolby Vision.

I’m not. I’m using your settings exactly how you have them for the right sources but for some reason with the new settings the non HDR apps on the SDR settings look worse on my TV and then the Dolby Vision and HDR 10 settings look worse on my TV this time around. However, I did see an improvement on my TiVo cable box. Your old, as of a week ago, settings just seem to pop a whole lot better on my set.




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post #555 of 768 Old 05-19-2019, 07:20 AM
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I’m not. I’m using your settings exactly how you have them for the right sources but for some reason with the new settings the non HDR apps on the SDR settings look worse on my TV and then the Dolby Vision and HDR 10 settings look worse on my TV this time around. However, I did see an improvement on my TiVo cable box. Your old, as of a week ago, settings just seem to pop a whole lot better on my set.




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Sent the May 4th set to you via PM, or DM, or IM, or P2P, or whatever the right acronym is

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post #556 of 768 Old 05-19-2019, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Anderegg View Post
Sent the May 4th set to you via PM, or DM, or IM, or P2P, or whatever the right acronym is



Paul


Thank you!


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post #557 of 768 Old 05-19-2019, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by naustin View Post
Try Photo Vivid for that Sami oversaturated look.

I tried pretty much everything...i used the same scene with both tvs,and i cannot even come close no matter what i do...I will upload two pics from the same scene,in both tvs.(Sony has the latest calibration settings from Anderegg,Samsung has my own settings).Since there are many knowledgeable guys here i might get some help,to make it happen...Its from a cellphone so dont expect quality...The colors are more than visible tho.Sony has a green tint all over the pic...
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post #558 of 768 Old 05-19-2019, 02:04 PM
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Yes Paul I accidentally not preserved the previous SDR bt 1886 settings that actually looked good apparently. It would be important to compare them. Can you post them again? The previous ones
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post #559 of 768 Old 05-19-2019, 02:06 PM
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Thank you Paul in advance
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post #560 of 768 Old 05-20-2019, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Thanasis Xrisatzas View Post
I tried pretty much everything...i used the same scene with both tvs,and i cannot even come close no matter what i do...I will upload two pics from the same scene,in both tvs.(Sony has the latest calibration settings from Anderegg,Samsung has my own settings).Since there are many knowledgeable guys here i might get some help,to make it happen...Its from a cellphone so dont expect quality...The colors are more than visible tho.Sony has a green tint all over the pic...
Personally, I think the photo of your Sony has the better picture here, more natural skin tones and whites. But off the top of my head, if you wanted to more closely replicate the look of the Sammy, I would stick with Anderegg's general settings, and change the color temperature from Expert 1 & 2 to Natural or Cool. Usually with calibrations the goal is to get a white balance close to 6,500k, but it looks like your Samsung is set much "cooler" than that. You could probably get far more close accuracy by adjusting the 2 point (dialing down the red and green gains) to get to that cooler range, but this is the quick and easy option. After determining which temperature is closest, I would adjust the color setting until it pops enough for you, I might guess a value of around 60-65. Good luck!
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post #561 of 768 Old 05-20-2019, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rafffster View Post
Personally, I think the photo of your Sony has the better picture here, more natural skin tones and whites. But off the top of my head, if you wanted to more closely replicate the look of the Sammy, I would stick with Anderegg's general settings, and change the color temperature from Expert 1 & 2 to Natural or Cool. Usually with calibrations the goal is to get a white balance close to 6,500k, but it looks like your Samsung is set much "cooler" than that. You could probably get far more close accuracy by adjusting the 2 point (dialing down the red and green gains) to get to that cooler range, but this is the quick and easy option. After determining which temperature is closest, I would adjust the color setting until it pops enough for you, I might guess a value of around 60-65. Good luck!

Thank you!Samsung is set to cool/cold while Sony is expert 1 and adobe RGB not in auto,But even if i set Sony to cool it doesnt change much,What is bothering me is the blue color,i dont know but i love that blue a lot more than the greenish blue that Sony has (for now at least)
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post #562 of 768 Old 05-20-2019, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Thanasis Xrisatzas View Post
Thank you!Samsung is set to cool/cold while Sony is expert 1 and adobe RGB not in auto,But even if i set Sony to cool it doesnt change much,What is bothering me is the blue color,i dont know but i love that blue a lot more than the greenish blue that Sony has (for now at least)
If your using Anderegg settings then your tv needs to be Cinema Pro/Expert 1 with picture options set to (auto) as specified for his settings to be optimal. Changing the colour temp to anything other than what the settings used is a waste of time. If your trying to match picture images on both sets use the (Custom) setting on each set and then match the colour temp, then play with the 2pt and 10pt colour adjustments till you get what your looking for.

As for te the 2 images you posted the Sony has the better image by far, and the Samsung is set way to cool for accuracy.

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post #563 of 768 Old 05-20-2019, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Anderegg View Post
I run my X900F at 120Hz, using Windows Media Center on Windows 7 64 bit. I was able to get 1080p 120Hz working as a custom profile in both my Intel iGPU as well as my Nvidia GT1030 GPU. I find that 120Hz works best for 24p content, as with VLC setting the TV to 23/24Hz would introduce loss of audio sync over a few minutes, which really annoyed me. It's nice to just run at 120Hz and not have to touch the output settings between TV shows and movies.
Have you tried using MadVR and ReClock in MPC and outputting 23/24p? Of course there's also the upscaling techniques in MadVR that may be superior to the Sony, but probably the GT1030 would struggle.

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post #564 of 768 Old 05-20-2019, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptinCrunch View Post
If your using Anderegg settings then your tv needs to be Cinema Pro/Expert 1 with picture options set to (auto) as specified for his settings to be optimal. Changing the colour temp to anything other than what the settings used is a waste of time. If your trying to match picture images on both sets use the (Custom) setting on each set and then match the colour temp, then play with the 2pt and 10pt colour adjustments till you get what your looking for.

As for te the 2 images you posted the Sony has the better image by far, and the Samsung is set way to cool for accuracy.
Captin is correct, to alter the warm-cool of any calibration by eye, you would want to adjust the RGB Gain for brights, and RGB Bias for shadows. Typically, you would just want to raise B Gain until it looks cool enough for you, then raise B Bias only if the B Gain wasn't enough. Keep an eye out for shadows that glow with any hue, such as a blue LCD glow, and lower the offending Bias color to eliminate.

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Have you tried using MadVR and ReClock in MPC and outputting 23/24p? Of course there's also the upscaling techniques in MadVR that may be superior to the Sony, but probably the GT1030 would struggle.
Yes, I have MadVR running with MPC-BE, and when I set me TV to 24Hz, WTC Media Center TV show files play back with correct cadence...I didn't make any weird setting adjustments, only have deinterlacing options set to auto or default, but that is enough for MPC-BE to figure it out. My GT1030 hits 100% use and 65C when watching movies, so I reserve it for high quality content.

Paul
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Originally Posted by Anderegg View Post
Captin is correct, to alter the warm-cool of any calibration by eye, you would want to adjust the RGB Gain for brights, and RGB Bias for shadows. Typically, you would just want to raise B Gain until it looks cool enough for you, then raise B Bias only if the B Gain wasn't enough. Keep an eye out for shadows that glow with any hue, such as a blue LCD glow, and lower the offending Bias color to eliminate.



Yes, I have MadVR running with MPC-BE, and when I set me TV to 24Hz, WTC Media Center TV show files play back with correct cadence...I didn't make any weird setting adjustments, only have deinterlacing options set to auto or default, but that is enough for MPC-BE to figure it out. My GT1030 hits 100% use and 65C when watching movies, so I reserve it for high quality content.

Paul

Thanks guys I was trying to do that in order to match the blue jacket color.But it doesnt seem possible...most likely cause i don't have the knowledge to do so ...I'm not sure where to start off.Cause all are at max at default.I will try a bit more and see what i can do.




EDIT:Even with the extreme B gain max and R+G at minimum,I cant even get close.In order to come close to the blue jacket at least i need to play with hue,then the jacket becomes almost as blue but everything else is ruined.I'm not sure what else i can do to make it possible.If anyone is willing to help,i can just direct you to the video.I know its not proper but i like the way it looks...One more thing that i just tried.I have wide color gamut at full i think its called color space :Native (if someone had a Samsung he knows what i mean) If i put that in Auto the picture is the same with Sony.

Last edited by Thanasis Xrisatzas; 05-20-2019 at 03:37 PM.
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post #566 of 768 Old 05-21-2019, 07:32 AM
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EDIT:Even with the extreme B gain max and R+G at minimum,I cant even get close.In order to come close to the blue jacket at least i need to play with hue,then the jacket becomes almost as blue but everything else is ruined.I'm not sure what else i can do to make it possible.If anyone is willing to help,i can just direct you to the video.I know its not proper but i like the way it looks..
Have you tried adjusting the 2 point colors while using the cool temperature setting? The advanced color settings affect all of the color temperatures, so if you start with the Cool setting and then dial the blue up and the greens back you might be able to get closer to what you're looking for. Also if the blue jacket is what you're trying to reach, try bumping the color way up and even possibly play with the live color setting. It's not something I use, so I wouldn't be able to tell you how exactly it would affect this scene, but others who like super vibrant colors seem to like it.
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post #567 of 768 Old 05-21-2019, 07:42 AM
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I think the only thing for you to do is to use the Custom mode and set white balance to COOL...I think that's like 10,000k or maybe cooler? If you need a lot more blue after that, then lower the R GAIN and G GAIN (leave B Gain at MAX), R two steps for every one step of G gain reduction, until it is enough blue for you. R and G together make YELLOW, which is what balances against the BLUE to alter white balance on the KELVIN color temp scale. After you get your bright whites white enough and the right "tint", then do similar to the G and R Bias, those control the color tint fed to the lower brightness areas such as the blacks and shadows.

DO NOT MESS WITH HUE...HUE determines how each color is fed into the color next to it on the vectorscope...it is meant to correct defects in aging CRT picture tubes or other problems, and really has no place in day to day television viewing for anyone.

As for Samsung NATIVE and AUTO...native simply means the TV uses the limits of the color gamut possible by the LCD panel itself. It basically just overdrives every color and saturation point outside of the sRGB color gamut making things glow, because they think people like that, and many do. When you do not select native, you get standard sRGB color gamut and limitations, meaning when the video or TV show calls for a specific color to be displayed, it is displayed at the proper color depth, luminance, and saturation.

Paul

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Originally Posted by Thanasis Xrisatzas View Post
Thanks guys I was trying to do that in order to match the blue jacket color.But it doesnt seem possible...most likely cause i don't have the knowledge to do so ...I'm not sure where to start off.Cause all are at max at default.I will try a bit more and see what i can do.




EDIT:Even with the extreme B gain max and R+G at minimum,I cant even get close.In order to come close to the blue jacket at least i need to play with hue,then the jacket becomes almost as blue but everything else is ruined.I'm not sure what else i can do to make it possible.If anyone is willing to help,i can just direct you to the video.I know its not proper but i like the way it looks...One more thing that i just tried.I have wide color gamut at full i think its called color space :Native (if someone had a Samsung he knows what i mean) If i put that in Auto the picture is the same with Sony.
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post #568 of 768 Old 05-21-2019, 08:03 AM
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I think the only thing for you to do is to use the Custom mode and set white balance to COOL...I think that's like 10,000k or maybe cooler? If you need a lot more blue after that, then lower the R GAIN and G GAIN (leave B Gain at MAX), R two steps for every one step of G gain reduction, until it is enough blue for you. R and G together make YELLOW, which is what balances against the BLUE to alter white balance on the KELVIN color temp scale. After you get your bright whites white enough and the right "tint", then do similar to the G and R Bias, those control the color tint fed to the lower brightness areas such as the blacks and shadows.

DO NOT MESS WITH HUE...HUE determines how each color is fed into the color next to it on the vectorscope...it is meant to correct defects in aging CRT picture tubes or other problems, and really has no place in day to day television viewing for anyone.

As for Samsung NATIVE and AUTO...native simply means the TV uses the limits of the color gamut possible by the LCD panel itself. It basically just overdrives every color and saturation point outside of the sRGB color gamut making things glow, because they think people like that, and many do. When you do not select native, you get standard sRGB color gamut and limitations, meaning when the video or TV show calls for a specific color to be displayed, it is displayed at the proper color depth, luminance, and saturation.

Paul
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Originally Posted by rafffster View Post
Have you tried adjusting the 2 point colors while using the cool temperature setting? The advanced color settings affect all of the color temperatures, so if you start with the Cool setting and then dial the blue up and the greens back you might be able to get closer to what you're looking for. Also if the blue jacket is what you're trying to reach, try bumping the color way up and even possibly play with the live color setting. It's not something I use, so I wouldn't be able to tell you how exactly it would affect this scene, but others who like super vibrant colors seem to like it.

Thanks for the suggestions guys.I tried everything i could and it doesnt seem to be possible with Sony...Too many restrictions.I wish there was a similar option for Sony,for the ones that like the "color boost effect" Might not be proper,but i find native very appealing especially for games...Thanks for helping out.


PS:I dont understand something tho,Sony has a wider color gamut than the given Samsung,Even so when you choose native the Samsung color pallete goes beyond Sonys BT2020...how is it possible?

Last edited by Thanasis Xrisatzas; 05-22-2019 at 02:40 AM.
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post #569 of 768 Old 05-24-2019, 06:52 PM
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Brand new better SDR and HDR calibrations are available in my signature link below. New and improved HDR calibration includes less purple green clouds

HDR10 (Dolby Vision set contrast to Max) <-NEW May 16, 2019!!!!
Cinema Pro
Expert 1
Brightness Max *
Contrast 92 *
Gamma 0
Black level 50
LD High *
X-tended Medium *
Color 50
Hue 0

2 Point
R-Gain Max
G-Gain -5
B-Gain -5
R-Bias -2
G-Bias 2
B-Bias -5

10 Point Expert 1
Point 1 2 0 -5
Point 2 -6 -5 -1
Point 3 -7 -7 -6
Point 4 -7 -8 -8
Point 5 -6 -4 -4
Point 6 -4 -4 -4
Point 7 0 0 0
Point 8 0 0 -4
Point 9 0 0 -2
Point 10 0 0 0
Thanks for these settings. I have a couple questions though. I've heard you should use cinema home for Netflix shows and movies, and pro for Blu Ray and 4K blu ray. Do you agree with this? And if so, will these setting work for cinema home as well? Thanks.
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post #570 of 768 Old 05-24-2019, 06:59 PM
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Thanks for these settings. I have a couple questions though. I've heard you should use cinema home for Netflix shows and movies, and pro for Blu Ray and 4K blu ray. Do you agree with this? And if so, will these setting work for cinema home as well? Thanks.
As far as I can tell, both Cinemas and Experts are identical, I believe they just wanted to give you the option of two configurable profiles, and changed the name slightly to differentiate them. If you put the same settings into each one, then toggle back and forth, you will not see any change at all to the picture.

Paul
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