THESE ARE OLDER SETTINGS, PLEASE SEE POST BELOW FOR UPDATED SETTINGS
After multiple "customer complaints" about yellow or red whites, I purchased a brand new i1Display Pro meter.
Turns out my old meter was a bit off on color temperature, so it was profiling a bit warm. The black level, gamma tracking, etc were all matching the new meter, just the final color temp line was evenly off around 6000k instead of D65 6500k.
So, here is a new set of 2 point calibrations to take out the extra warmth of the old meter. Just add these in place of the 2 point figures in the quote below. These should get you by until a new calibration can be done this weekend wit the new meter. These 2 points + the old 10 points will get you 6500k and around 0.30dE white balance, assuming no major panel variations.
New Temp 2 Point to add to old 10 point below (in the self quote)
Contact me if you want to buy my old meter :-)
Originally Posted by Anderegg
OK, spent all of yesterday trying hard to get the most perfect gamma as possible, only to discover 8 hours in that my i1D3 meter has a serious issue with measurement color drift after being stuck to a TV for 8 hours! Long story short, the hours of calibrating were only good for training, and I redid them this morning, and the results are below. Final result was calibrated to 120ish cd/m at brightness 6, contrast MAX, with local dimming set to high. Resulting black level was 0.034cd/m, contrast around 3400:1, 2.2 flat gamma, remarkable 0.16dE average white balance error, with a 0.99dE for color checker dE. The point of this new calibration was to go beyond just getting a good white dE and 2.2 gamma, and to optimize the calibration for maximum possible brightness, which is why you see the weakest color gain left at Max, and the other brought down to match it, instead of just randomly bringing everything up and down.
Due to panel variances, you may or may not have an issue with strange color tint. Some have noticed a reddish hue to their TV after adding settings. The quick and dirty freestyle method to tweak those, is to adjust the 2 point GAIN color down or up until the offending hue goes away. Gain is color brightness, bias is color shadows...the 0% to 100% bias up to gain is your gamma...the lower the bias in relation to the gain, the larger the gamma value number will become. For ever 2 steps of gain you reduce, it will require maybe 1 step of the same color of bias to be removed as well. This calibration and gamma curve was achieved with local dimming on and contrast to maximum. There is no white clipping, and turning local dimming off with these settings will result in low range shadow gamma oddities, and maybe some crushed blacks. See HCFR screen grab below.
I am still working on the new APPS calibration. You can use the HDMI version for APPS, although not optimized, should still be workable. The biggest difference between HDMI and APPS calibrations is that HDMI on APPS will result in increased shadow gamma, meaning the shadows will fall below the highlights in luminance and color volume, typically referred to as crushed blacks.
Expert 1 HDMI
Brightness 6 for 120cd/m
Local Dimming High
X-tended Dynamic Range OFF
Point 1 -3 -2 -1
Point 2 -1 -1 -2
Point 3 -5 -3 -5
Point 4 -2 -1 -4
Point 5 -2 -1 -2
Point 6 -5 -4 -2
Point 7 -1 1 -2
Point 8 -5 -4 -3
Point 9 0 1 -4
Point 10 0 0 0
For those of you who have never had your TV calibrated, i am sure others who have will agree that the cost of the meter ($200) can and will increase the picture quality more than if you spent that money on a TV costing the same amount more as the meter itself. A proper calibration can make your Sony look like a completely different TV, and will absolutely put more expensive TV's with standard settings to shame.