2019 TCL 75R615 Owners Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 32 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #931 of 963 Old 05-06-2020, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by sonikk71 View Post
I was hoping that by now TCL would have let some info slip on if/when a 75 inch new model would be out. (I have promised myself I wouldn't buy anything smaller than a 75 inch for my next tv) I am really surprised that they haven't said anything yet. I really like the idea of giving TCL/Roku a try as I am heavily considering cutting the cord. Meanwhile prices in my area for other brands are dropping, Samsung Q70s are getting close.

Another point of consideration has popped up recently... It seems like we have had an uptick in people having issues with their TCL tvs lately around here. This concerns me.
Seeing "issues" here is normal. Some times people are coming for advice. Other times, just to complain/vent. At any rate, I've accepted that they all have issues or compromises in one way or another. The issues I handle via warranty. The compromises I just include in the purchase decision. There's an equal-ish split of TCL fans and malcontents same as for most brands.

I'd love it if TCL would reveal info on the 2020 75" models, but I've found that seeing them in person or in a review matters more than the press release material. Look out for those. I bet TCL planned to release later in the year, but slow sales has to have them thinking move up the releases. This year's TV sales fund next year's and beyond's R&D so they have to move some sets.
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post #932 of 963 Old 05-06-2020, 09:27 PM
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Color Temperature. When you use the Expert Picture Settings in the Roku Mobile app, all the calibration settings (11 Pt WB & Color Space) are saved for the color temperature you selected.

I’️ve achieved great results using settings suggested on this forum and calibrating the display using the iPQ Mobile App and then HCFR software with a i1 Display Pro colorimeter. My settings are attached. Among the best recommendations is how to configure HDR and Dolby Vision so the picture is not so dark: set TV Brightness to Normal or Dark, HDR/DV mode to Bright, Gamma to 2.2 and Color Space to Native (or better - to Custom with calibration).
Thank you for the advise.

When using IPQ it only calibrates for movie mode SDR. If I make any changes while it begins it bounces right back to movie mode. Do I have to change it on expert settings while it runs? I just thought of that.

Anyway, as of now I found the best settings for me, without IPQ leaving everything as default, is for SDR 1080P viewing for news and general network TV viewing is movie mode, brightness either normal or bright, and setting temp to normal. I find this keeps the reds, pinks, magenta colors tame while maintaining natural whites. Warm makes everything seem to brownish in movie mode and picture mode as normal is way too overblown for colors. If I can run IPQ for picture mode: normal ill give that a try.

As for DV movies I set gamma at 1.8 DV to dark and brighness to brighter, temp warm. This seems to bring out the details in the dark shadows.

Thank again for your settings, I will give them a try as I just have everything at 0 for now.
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post #933 of 963 Old 05-07-2020, 06:04 PM
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Seeing "issues" here is normal. Some times people are coming for advice. Other times, just to complain/vent. At any rate, I've accepted that they all have issues or compromises in one way or another. The issues I handle via warranty. The compromises I just include in the purchase decision. There's an equal-ish split of TCL fans and malcontents same as for most brands.

I'd love it if TCL would reveal info on the 2020 75" models, but I've found that seeing them in person or in a review matters more than the press release material. Look out for those. I bet TCL planned to release later in the year, but slow sales has to have them thinking move up the releases. This year's TV sales fund next year's and beyond's R&D so they have to move some sets.
I really wonder though just how bad production and shipping has gotten due to Covid. I am thinking on the 75" 8 series but if the newer one will be here soon with vidrian, 2.1 and all that for the same price or less, I certainly could wait...

IDK what to do.

Someone who truly loves others speaks the truth, not just what they want to hear.
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post #934 of 963 Old 05-08-2020, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by gardennj View Post
Seeing "issues" here is normal. Some times people are coming for advice. Other times, just to complain/vent. At any rate, I've accepted that they all have issues or compromises in one way or another. The issues I handle via warranty. The compromises I just include in the purchase decision. There's an equal-ish split of TCL fans and malcontents same as for most brands.

I'd love it if TCL would reveal info on the 2020 75" models, but I've found that seeing them in person or in a review matters more than the press release material. Look out for those. I bet TCL planned to release later in the year, but slow sales has to have them thinking move up the releases. This year's TV sales fund next year's and beyond's R&D so they have to move some sets.
I really wonder though just how bad production and shipping has gotten due to Covid. I am thinking on the 75" 8 series but if the newer one will be here soon with vidrian, 2.1 and all that for the same price or less, I certainly could wait...

IDK what to do.
The current 75" 8 series is $1599 with MSRP of $2999. If a new one comes out i doubt it will be cheap. Good question about supply chain though, everything has been slowed and shut down.

TCL has set up production and marketing systems in dozens of countries and regions worldwide. It manages seven global R&D centers, 17 manufacturing bases, and 40,000 sales outlets.[citation needed] The company has four supply chains: product design and manufacturing, logistics and supply, quality assurance, and product creation and support.
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post #935 of 963 Old 05-10-2020, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by gardennj View Post
Seeing "issues" here is normal. Some times people are coming for advice. Other times, just to complain/vent. At any rate, I've accepted that they all have issues or compromises in one way or another. The issues I handle via warranty. The compromises I just include in the purchase decision. There's an equal-ish split of TCL fans and malcontents same as for most brands.

I'd love it if TCL would reveal info on the 2020 75" models, but I've found that seeing them in person or in a review matters more than the press release material. Look out for those. I bet TCL planned to release later in the year, but slow sales has to have them thinking move up the releases. This year's TV sales fund next year's and beyond's R&D so they have to move some sets.
I really wonder though just how bad production and shipping has gotten due to Covid. I am thinking on the 75" 8 series but if the newer one will be here soon with vidrian, 2.1 and all that for the same price or less, I certainly could wait...

IDK what to do.
The current 75" 8 series is $1599 with MSRP of $2999. If a new one comes out i doubt it will be cheap. Good question about supply chain though, everything has been slowed and shut down.

TCL has set up production and marketing systems in dozens of countries and regions worldwide. It manages seven global R&D centers, 17 manufacturing bases, and 40,000 sales outlets.[citation needed] The company has four supply chains: product design and manufacturing, logistics and supply, quality assurance, and product creation and support.
Damn. That must of been a flash sale the 75" 8 series is back to $2999.....$1599 was a steal for that hot 🔥 minute.

Just an update with the 75r615. It's been just over a week now and I'm very happy with it. As I discussed before, my only annoyance is that I do have to make some quick adjustments with brightness and HDR modes based on content. It's really just a quick toggle between two settings. Im honestly not sure if this is just the nature of DV/HDR but not all content is made the same. I also don't know if "premium " sets do this automatically or you pretty much have to do the same with a $5000 set as well.
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post #936 of 963 Old 05-13-2020, 09:25 AM
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To be clear though - the TVs are 100% the same. Only the remotes are different. You can buy the voice remote directly from Roku, other retailers, or used on eBay and will work on either models.

Try the IPQ app from Roku one iOS or Android to do a quick auto-calibration. Puts out a decent calibrated picture.
Do you know why my voice remote that came with the 55inch , does not work on my 75 inch, even though they are same model ? Is there a way of pairing it ? I have had 9 roku boxes in th epast and the remotes all work with each other . thx
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post #937 of 963 Old 05-13-2020, 10:29 AM
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To be clear though - the TVs are 100% the same. Only the remotes are different. You can buy the voice remote directly from Roku, other retailers, or used on eBay and will work on either models.

Try the IPQ app from Roku one iOS or Android to do a quick auto-calibration. Puts out a decent calibrated picture.
.Do you know why my voice remote that came with the 55inch , does not work on my 75 inch, even though they are same model ? Is there a way of pairing it ? I have had 9 roku boxes in th epast and the remotes all work with each other . thx

Settings>remotes and devices>pair new device>remote
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post #938 of 963 Old 05-13-2020, 11:15 AM
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Settings>remotes and devices>pair new device>remote
Hi,

I am looking into getting a Dolby Atmos sound bar. I see there is an eARC HDMI slot on the TV. As I have no other devices to connect into the soundbar such as BR player etc. I presume I just need to connect the eARC on the TV to the eARC on the soundbar , right ? Also does eARC require a special HDMI lead or can I just use one of the MANY I have laying around? thx
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Hi,

I am looking into getting a Dolby Atmos sound bar. I see there is an eARC HDMI slot on the TV. As I have no other devices to connect into the soundbar such as BR player etc. I presume I just need to connect the eARC on the TV to the eARC on the soundbar , right ? Also does eARC require a special HDMI lead or can I just use one of the MANY I have laying around? thx
The cable just needs to be earc capable which means high speed and capable of ethernet connection. They're usually marketed and sold as eArc specifically, but there's no need to pay for expensive ones as long as they can pass the 48GHz. It's also backwards compatible so try your cables before buying. If you don't get the Atmos sound, you'll need new ones. The marketing and selling of these has been confusing at best so just try it. If not, you can buy them online for not too much.
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post #940 of 963 Old 05-13-2020, 01:41 PM
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Settings>remotes and devices>pair new device>remote
Hi,

I am looking into getting a Dolby Atmos sound bar. I see there is an eARC HDMI slot on the TV. As I have no other devices to connect into the soundbar such as BR player etc. I presume I just need to connect the eARC on the TV to the eARC on the soundbar , right ? Also does eARC require a special HDMI lead or can I just use one of the MANY I have laying around? thx
This TV does not have eARC but that won't matter if you are just going to stream through the TV's apps. It will passthrough dolby digital + to the soundbar which will contain the atmos Metadata. No streaming service that i know of will stream Dolby trueHD which you only can get through a UHD Blu-ray disc.

So if you're just streaming you will be just fine. Any high speed HDMI cable will work and it's usually printed on the cable. If you do end up getting a Blu-ray player you should run it directly to the soundbar as the TV won't passthrough the trueHD or DTS master soundtrack.

In my opinion a soundbar alone in general won't give you a great atmos experience but will be much better experience than the TV's speakers by a lot. I personally am not a fan of sounbars but they are easy and convenient if you don't want to run speakers around your listening area and ceiling.
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post #941 of 963 Old 05-14-2020, 11:02 AM
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This TV does not have eARC but that won't matter if you are just going to stream through the TV's apps. It will passthrough dolby digital + to the soundbar which will contain the atmos Metadata. No streaming service that i know of will stream Dolby trueHD which you only can get through a UHD Blu-ray disc.

So if you're just streaming you will be just fine. Any high speed HDMI cable will work and it's usually printed on the cable. If you do end up getting a Blu-ray player you should run it directly to the soundbar as the TV won't passthrough the trueHD or DTS master soundtrack.

In my opinion a soundbar alone in general won't give you a great atmos experience but will be much better experience than the TV's speakers by a lot. I personally am not a fan of sounbars but they are easy and convenient if you don't want to run speakers around your listening area and ceiling.
Thanks. I know what you mean. Before I moved to USA 7 years ago from UK, I had a great setup with Kuro Plasma (this TV is my 1st ever none Plasma ) a 70lb Onkyo Amp , B&W speakers and an awesome BK Monolith Sub, Oppo DVD , BR player and of course a HD DVD player. I am just looking into soundbars to hold me over until I have figured out when setup I want . I know I am going to get PMC speakers, as I have always loved them, but been out the game so long , I need to learn all about the new AVRs and what would work best to drive the PMCs in a HT context, and what sub to get as it is too expensive to ship a BK Monolith from UK, unfortunately.
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The cable just needs to be earc capable which means high speed and capable of ethernet connection. They're usually marketed and sold as eArc specifically, but there's no need to pay for expensive ones as long as they can pass the 48GHz. It's also backwards compatible so try your cables before buying. If you don't get the Atmos sound, you'll need new ones. The marketing and selling of these has been confusing at best so just try it. If not, you can buy them online for not too much.
Ok, thanks . Not to start some crazy debate, like I always saw in the UK av Forum, but I have never gone for the whole Gold wired, platinum connection, diamond "high-end" cable thing lol. I think it makes no difference, just has to get a bunch of 1s and 0s along 6 feet of cable, at the right speed.

Same with speaker cable and connectors......$3 per yard works just as well as the $100 per yard stuff lol.
Except of course it is analogue .
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The cable just needs to be earc capable which means high speed and capable of ethernet connection. They're usually marketed and sold as eArc specifically, but there's no need to pay for expensive ones as long as they can pass the 48GHz. It's also backwards compatible so try your cables before buying. If you don't get the Atmos sound, you'll need new ones. The marketing and selling of these has been confusing at best so just try it. If not, you can buy them online for not too much.
Ok, thanks . Not to start some crazy debate, like I always saw in the UK av Forum, but I have never gone for the whole Gold wired, platinum connection, diamond "high-end" cable thing lol. I think it makes no difference, just has to get a bunch of 1s and 0s along 6 feet of cable, at the right speed.

Same with speaker cable and connectors......$3 per yard works just as well as the $100 per yard stuff lol.
Except of course it is analogue .
Expensive HDMI is the biggest scam on the market. Im pretty sure we are all aware of that. Thicker (low guage) speaker wires can make a difference when length and high power is involved.
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post #944 of 963 Old 05-14-2020, 11:21 AM
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This TV does not have eARC but that won't matter if you are just going to stream through the TV's apps. It will passthrough dolby digital + to the soundbar which will contain the atmos Metadata. No streaming service that i know of will stream Dolby trueHD which you only can get through a UHD Blu-ray disc.

So if you're just streaming you will be just fine. Any high speed HDMI cable will work and it's usually printed on the cable. If you do end up getting a Blu-ray player you should run it directly to the soundbar as the TV won't passthrough the trueHD or DTS master soundtrack.

In my opinion a soundbar alone in general won't give you a great atmos experience but will be much better experience than the TV's speakers by a lot. I personally am not a fan of sounbars but they are easy and convenient if you don't want to run speakers around your listening area and ceiling.
Thanks. I know what you mean. Before I moved to USA 7 years ago from UK, I had a great setup with Kuro Plasma (this TV is my 1st ever none Plasma [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif[/IMG] ) a 70lb Onkyo Amp , B&W speakers and an awesome BK Monolith Sub, Oppo DVD , BR player and of course a HD DVD player. I am just looking into soundbars to hold me over until I have figured out when setup I want . I know I am going to get PMC speakers, as I have always loved them, but been out the game so long , I need to learn all about the new AVRs and what would work best to drive the PMCs in a HT context, and what sub to get as it is too expensive to ship a BK Monolith from UK, unfortunately.
I've had an onkyo and yamaha but when I upgraded i needed 4k passthrough and I tried almost every major brand. I ended up with marantz and I will never look back.
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How did you like the BK sub? I was thinking of getting one. ....sorry this is a bit off topic
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Bought my 75R615 in August 2019. Appears it has developed a "dark spot" at the top of the screen. I assume this is the DSE I've heard of? Maybe not. Anybody experienced this? How did TCL customer support handle it?
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Expensive HDMI is the biggest scam on the market. Im pretty sure we are all aware of that. Thicker (low guage) speaker wires can make a difference when length and high power is involved.
Right, I meant for 'most ' users. Without getting into details of impedance and power over distance .
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How did you like the BK sub? I was thinking of getting one. ....sorry this is a bit off topic
They have been raved about by HT enthusiasts in UK for many years. Build quality and performance for the money is hard to beat: http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofe...andFF_plus.htm
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How did you like the BK sub? I was thinking of getting one. ....sorry this is a bit off topic
They have been raved about by HT enthusiasts in UK for many years. Build quality and performance for the money is hard to beat: http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofe...andFF_plus.htm
My bad. I was thinking of BIC F12 monoprice sells a sub called Monolith. I got confused
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post #950 of 963 Old 05-16-2020, 05:09 PM
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Question

I'm looking at picking up this set used for about ~$800 as a hold over TV until 2021.. Since it seems like it will take some time before companies have a proper 120hz VRR TV set.


I'm worried about crosshatching as outlined by rtings...

Quote:
There are some artifacts visible with 4k content due to the sub-pixel dimming. This performs similarly to the P607 (see here), but shouldn't be an issue for most people and is mostly noticeable when used as a PC monitor.
This type of dithering is uncommon, and is only seen on some TCL TVs, including the S517 and R617. Most people won't notice it much, but occasionally it causes artifacts when it interferes with spatial dithering in games such as this green or purple shadow. (Note: the images are from the S517, but we expect them to be the same on the 6 Series.)
Update 29/05/2018: We've received a report that the 49" S515/S517 has similar crosshatching to the S405, as seen here, and we expect this to be the same in the R615/R617. This will bother some people especially when used as a PC Monitor.
Anyone hook up this display to a computer and notice anything like this? Apparently also it can cause artifacts in some scenes. Conflicting reports on the 65inch so maybe the 75inch is improved?
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post #951 of 963 Old 05-17-2020, 08:25 AM
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I really wonder though just how bad production and shipping has gotten due to Covid. I am thinking on the 75" 8 series but if the newer one will be here soon with vidrian, 2.1 and all that for the same price or less, I certainly could wait...

IDK what to do.
I would not hold off. I have seen it myself, TV's are becoming short on supply, and shipping is all held up. Knowing the industry, and the fact that many, many, if not most 2020 model TV's will not be available until fall of 2020, and the fact that, because of all this, there is likely to be no new models for 2021, and shipping of products into the states being held up,yes, because of Covid-19, I would not get hung up on new gimmicks. Rather, I would take what I could get, when I could get it. Do you really want to be a "test dummy" on something with THAT many new technologies right away, and if there are issues, not be able to obtain a replacement, especially from a company that, especially in recent months, has had such a lousy track record of customer service? I certainly would not. For now, I would stick to what I know works, or hold off. For as long as I could, until the market is saturated with new models, more testing is done, and you can get a new one easily in exchange if you get a bad unit at first.

Its going to be much longer before most of the new stuff is even available. If even at all this year. I would buy the current 8 Series.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
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post #952 of 963 Old 05-17-2020, 08:32 AM
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Bought my 75R615 in August 2019. Appears it has developed a "dark spot" at the top of the screen. I assume this is the DSE I've heard of? Maybe not. Anybody experienced this? How did TCL customer support handle it?
That is likely dead pixels. If it was DSE, it would have been there from the beginning. I am told that DSE is something that is out of the box, and never gets better or worse.

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post #953 of 963 Old 05-17-2020, 10:53 AM
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CYBRCH - thanks for sharing TCL 75R615 calibration settings

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Keith & Nigel, welcome to the club! The TCL 75R615/617 punches way above its weight. I'm very picky (tempered by “perfect is the enemy of good”) and this display far exceeds my expectations.

Some ways I've found to get the most out of this remarkable display... including better Dolby Vision (skip to the end of this lengthy post for the quick answer).

The 75R615/617 has a rich set of controls to dial-in picture quality to your liking. First step is to download 2 apps to your IOS or Android device: Roku Mobile App & TCL iPQ Engine Mobile Calibration app...

Understanding of the interplay between Picture Mode and Color Temperature helps to customize settings for each type of content and lock them in - reducing the number of times you have to hit * to make adjustments.

Picture Mode. There are 5 picture modes for SDR (Movie, Normal, Sports, Vivid, Low Power) and 3 modes each for HDR & DV (Dark, Normal, Bright). When you change the value of any setting within a picture mode, it is saved for just that mode.

Color Temperature. When you use the Expert Picture Settings in the Roku Mobile app, all the calibration settings (11 Pt WB & Color Space) are saved for the color temperature you selected.

I’ve achieved great results using settings suggested on this forum and calibrating the display using the iPQ Mobile App and then HCFR software with a i1 Display Pro colorimeter. My settings are attached. Among the best recommendations is how to configure HDR and Dolby Vision so the picture is not so dark: set TV Brightness to Normal or Dark, HDR/DV mode to Bright, Gamma to 2.2 and Color Space to Native (or better - to Custom with calibration).
I got the TV last weekend and image looked much better after going through the calibrations above. It looked really well with the demo Dolby content out of the box but watching YouTube TV and other streamed content looked grainy/pixelated, was just not a pleasant experience, so much better now. Thanks again!
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post #954 of 963 Old 05-17-2020, 11:48 AM
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Does anyone have an Apple TV 4K hooked up to this tv? Do you hook up to tv and use arc to your receiver or hook up to receiver and send that way? I had a 55” 625 I returned. Apple TV went through my onkyo and there was lip sync issues. I know there’s the Apple TV app but you don’t get the extras or Atmos sound. Thanks
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post #955 of 963 Old 05-18-2020, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ryan.carlson82 View Post
I would not hold off. I have seen it myself, TV's are becoming short on supply, and shipping is all held up. Knowing the industry, and the fact that many, many, if not most 2020 model TV's will not be available until fall of 2020, and the fact that, because of all this, there is likely to be no new models for 2021, and shipping of products into the states being held up,yes, because of Covid-19, I would not get hung up on new gimmicks. Rather, I would take what I could get, when I could get it. Do you really want to be a "test dummy" on something with THAT many new technologies right away, and if there are issues, not be able to obtain a replacement, especially from a company that, especially in recent months, has had such a lousy track record of customer service? I certainly would not. For now, I would stick to what I know works, or hold off. For as long as I could, until the market is saturated with new models, more testing is done, and you can get a new one easily in exchange if you get a bad unit at first.

Its going to be much longer before most of the new stuff is even available. If even at all this year. I would buy the current 8 Series.

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Thanks. I came to a similar conclusion and have a 75" 8 Series in my living room now. I'm pretty pleased with it so far.

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post #956 of 963 Old 05-22-2020, 05:19 PM
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Hey guys. Please amuse me. This is literally my first 4k dolby vision/ HDR. I really have nothing to compare it too and I've done exhaustive searching for a real case situation where someone has another expensive dolby vision TV that can compare.

As I have posted before I'm not happy with HDR movie content, its just very dark when dark scenes occur. I've come to the conclusion that it's likely the content but just streaming regular 1080p just seems better all together. The blacks are black but it's not so black where you are trying to find details in shadows. I rented ET on Vudo the other night, 4k Dolby Vision and it was absolutely too dark and I've seen it a million times so I know how certain scenes looked liked. Everything was set to full brightness. I keep hearing TVs crushing the blacks, I don't know cause I can't compare. I'm watching regular 1080p content now on Netflix and it looks fine.

Can anyone confirm this is just a thing for dolby vision content or is it the TV. Are we the bargain hunters and don't know any better?

If anybody has watched the same content on different TV'S in dolby vision I would really appreciate some feedback. I still have time to return it but I rather not.

Thanks
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post #957 of 963 Old 05-23-2020, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Ksenopoulos View Post
Hey guys. Please amuse me. This is literally my first 4k dolby vision/ HDR. I really have nothing to compare it too and I've done exhaustive searching for a real case situation where someone has another expensive dolby vision TV that can compare.

As I have posted before I'm not happy with HDR movie content, its just very dark when dark scenes occur. I've come to the conclusion that it's likely the content but just streaming regular 1080p just seems better all together. The blacks are black but it's not so black where you are trying to find details in shadows. I rented ET on Vudo the other night, 4k Dolby Vision and it was absolutely too dark and I've seen it a million times so I know how certain scenes looked liked. Everything was set to full brightness. I keep hearing TVs crushing the blacks, I don't know cause I can't compare. I'm watching regular 1080p content now on Netflix and it looks fine.

Can anyone confirm this is just a thing for dolby vision content or is it the TV. Are we the bargain hunters and don't know any better?

If anybody has watched the same content on different TV'S in dolby vision I would really appreciate some feedback. I still have time to return it but I rather not.

Thanks
Dolby Vision content can be very challenging for any tv. Many programs can be mastered as high as 4000 nits and tvs that dont have that capability might not render it properly. As far as I know no TV can currently do 4000 nits. Most do between 1000 and 2000 nits. The TCL 6 comes in at around 1000 nits, so its bright, but not quite bright enough to handle Dolby Vision material at its best. It handles regular HDR10 material brilliantly.

Some of us have found that changing HDR from "Dark" to "Normal" or even "Bright" settings gives you more shadow detail with HDR10 and Dolby Vision. I have done extensive testing between all three modes and find HDR Bright to have the best contrast between light and dark and preserves shadow detail the best.

However some dont like using HDR Bright because it slightly shifts the color temperature closer to cool than warm. The Warm color temperature is the more accurate color temperature and enthusiasts dont like a shift toward blue.

If you decide to change to HDR Bright, then change the Brightness setting from "Bright" or "Brightest" over to Dark. This gives excellent black levels while still showing shadow detail and doesnt reduce highlites at all.

Tech sights recommend HDR Dark and Brightness: Brighter, but as you have noticed, with most Dolby Vision material, its way too dark. The set can probably be calibrated to reveal that shadow detail (and thats what these tech sites do) but unless you want to pay for the calibration yourself or can do it yourself, the solution is HDR: Bright, and Brightness: Dark.

Give it a try and see how you like it. Do some comparisons between Bright and Dark settings using Netflix with Altered Carbon, The Umbrella Academy and The Chilling Adventures of Sabrina. All shows that have a lot of very dark scenes. If you can adjust your set to look good with those three shows, it will look good with just about anything after that.

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Last edited by NuSoardGraphite; 05-23-2020 at 12:34 AM.
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post #958 of 963 Old 05-23-2020, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NuSoardGraphite View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Ksenopoulos View Post
Hey guys. Please amuse me. This is literally my first 4k dolby vision/ HDR. I really have nothing to compare it too and I've done exhaustive searching for a real case situation where someone has another expensive dolby vision TV that can compare.

As I have posted before I'm not happy with HDR movie content, its just very dark when dark scenes occur. I've come to the conclusion that it's likely the content but just streaming regular 1080p just seems better all together. The blacks are black but it's not so black where you are trying to find details in shadows. I rented ET on Vudo the other night, 4k Dolby Vision and it was absolutely too dark and I've seen it a million times so I know how certain scenes looked liked. Everything was set to full brightness. I keep hearing TVs crushing the blacks, I don't know cause I can't compare. I'm watching regular 1080p content now on Netflix and it looks fine.

Can anyone confirm this is just a thing for dolby vision content or is it the TV. Are we the bargain hunters and don't know any better?

If anybody has watched the same content on different TV'S in dolby vision I would really appreciate some feedback. I still have time to return it but I rather not.

Thanks
Dolby Vision content can be very challenging for any tv. Many programs can be mastered as high as 4000 nits and tvs that dont have that capability might not render it properly. As far as I know no TV can currently do 4000 nits. Most do between 1000 and 2000 nits. The TCL 6 comes in at around 1000 nits, so its bright, but not quite bright enough to handle Dolby Vision material at its best. It handles regular HDR10 material brilliantly.

Some of us have found that changing HDR from "Dark" to "Normal" or even "Bright" settings gives you more shadow detail with HDR10 and Dolby Vision. I have done extensive testing between all three modes and find HDR Bright to have the best contrast between light and dark and preserves shadow detail the best.

However some dont like using HDR Bright because it slightly shifts the color temperature closer to cool than warm. The Warm color temperature is the more accurate color temperature and enthusiasts dont like a shift toward blue.

If you decide to change to HDR Bright, then change the Brightness setting from "Bright" or "Brightest" over to Dark. This gives excellent black levels while still showing shadow detail and doesnt reduce highlites at all.

Tech sights recommend HDR Dark and Brightness: Brighter, but as you have noticed, with most Dolby Vision material, its way too dark. The set can probably be calibrated to reveal that shadow detail (and thats what these tech sites do) but unless you want to pay for the calibration yourself or can do it yourself, the solution is HDR: Bright, and Brightness: Dark.

Give it a try and see how you like it. Do some comparisons between Bright and Dark settings using Netflix with Altered Carbon, The Umbrella Academy and The Chilling Adventures of Sabrina. All shows that have a lot of very dark scenes. If you can adjust your set to look good with those three shows, it will look good with just about anything after that.
I've tried every combination of picture brightness and HDR. It's pretty limiting to only have 2 variables but with the right content the settings as you described works good. I have watched altered carbon and the show does look good but I find a majority of other content is just too dark. I feel limited to watch only content that was created in the last 2 years...then again stranger things is completely unwatchable I can't see a thing in almost all dark scenes.

Now my example with ET i do realize is 40 years old and shot on film. I chose to buy the 4k Dolby Vision version of it on Vodu. Specifically the scene when Eliot is showing ET his star wars toys in his room, i know for a fact you should be able to see them clearly but you can only make out completely black silhouettes. I couldn't see a thing. HDR was on bright and picture mode was brightest. I see this in many other movies I have watched that I know something is there that I'm not seeing. I guess thats what they mean that the blacks are crushed. Now I'm tempted to rent the 1080p non hdr version to see if there's a difference.

Again. I'm really not sure if its A: the content B: TV or C-Dolby vision. I have read that people have been turning off DV in the secret menu.

Maybe I should just return it and get a TV with just HDR 10 because maybe Dolby Vision should just be used on a more expensive OLED TV that can handle it? I'm really not sure.....I feel I might have gotten dooped by the "Dolby Vision" on the box because I really feel I'm fighting with any content presented in Dolby Vision. I'm really trying to fool myself into thinking this is actually better than non DV. I guess what I'm saying is that even though this TV is labeled as Dolby Vision I feel it's not capable of properly displaying it to the point it's actually hindering the general experience. If they just left it HDR 10 there would be no problem and unfortunately you have no option to choose because streaming services will automatically detect and stream DV.

Last edited by Keith Ksenopoulos; 05-23-2020 at 09:31 AM.
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post #959 of 963 Old 05-23-2020, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Ksenopoulos View Post
I've tried every combination of picture brightness and HDR. It's pretty limiting to only have 2 variables but with the right content the settings as you described works good. I have watched altered carbon and the show does look good but I find a majority of other content is just too dark. I feel limited to watch only content that was created in the last 2 years...then again stranger things is completely unwatchable I can't see a thing in almost all dark scenes.

Now my example with ET i do realize is 40 years old and shot on film. I chose to buy the 4k Dolby Vision version of it on Vodu. Specifically the scene when Eliot is showing ET his star wars toys in his room, i know for a fact you should be able to see them clearly but you can only make out completely black silhouettes. I couldn't see a thing. HDR was on bright and picture mode was brightest. I see this in many other movies I have watched that I know something is there that I'm not seeing. I guess thats what they mean that the blacks are crushed. Now I'm tempted to rent the 1080p non hdr version to see if there's a difference.

Again. I'm really not sure if its A: the content B: TV or C-Dolby vision. I have read that people have been turning off DV in the secret menu.

Maybe I should just return it and get a TV with just HDR 10 because maybe Dolby Vision should just be used on a more expensive OLED TV that can handle it? I'm really not sure.....I feel I might have gotten dooped by the "Dolby Vision" on the box because I really feel I'm fighting with any content presented in Dolby Vision. I'm really trying to fool myself into thinking this is actually better than non DV. I guess what I'm saying is that even though this TV is labeled as Dolby Vision I feel it's not capable of properly displaying it to the point it's actually hindering the general experience. If they just left it HDR 10 there would be no problem and unfortunately you have no option to choose because streaming services will automatically detect and stream DV.
Before returning it, I would see if there is any way you can get the set calibrated. If there is a Best Buy nearby that has a good price on calibrating (so you dont spend too much) or invest in a calibration disc and learn how to adjust the picture yourself.

I adjust my set with a calibration disc and dont have any issues with the set being too dark using HDR: Bright. There is absolutely no problem with SDR content in Movie/Dark modes.

Stand tall and shake the heavens...
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post #960 of 963 Old 05-25-2020, 08:27 PM
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Does anyone know the Directv Remote (Model RC-73) program code # for TCL 75R615? I’ve been through at least first 7-8 Codes with no luck.

Memphis Tiger Fan-Sports enthusiast
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