2019 Samsung Q90R Owners Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 158 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4711 of 6636 Old 06-25-2019, 06:02 PM
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Swapped out the Q80 with the Q90. First impressions: Picture quality and contrast looks much better. Blacks are deeper.

Only gripe...it seems the reflective filter on the 80 performed better in my space. Is that possible?

Also there’s a small gap on the bottom of the TV between the screen and bezel that looks unfinished to me. Is this gap normal?

Last thing. Ordered from Best Buy. Back of T.V. looked like it had dirt or dust on it. Very strange. Is there a way I can confirm (service menu perhaps) that this is not a refurb or open box?
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post #4712 of 6636 Old 06-25-2019, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mcervinojr View Post
Also there’s a small gap on the bottom of the TV between the screen and bezel that looks unfinished to me. Is this gap normal?
Picture? My 75" has a black plastic strip across the bottom (not sides or top), just above the bezel. Does yours?
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post #4713 of 6636 Old 06-25-2019, 06:56 PM
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Also there’️s a small gap on the bottom of the TV between the screen and bezel that looks unfinished to me. Is this gap normal?
Picture? My 75" has a black plastic strip across the bottom (not sides or top), just above the bezel. Does yours?
I had a small plastic strip too that I removed. It just seems like there is a weird 1/8” gap. Is this normal?
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post #4714 of 6636 Old 06-25-2019, 07:00 PM
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I had a small plastic strip too that I removed. It just seems like there is a weird 1/8” gap. Is this normal?
Are you sure the strip was supposed to be removed? Was it covering up the gap?
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post #4715 of 6636 Old 06-25-2019, 07:19 PM
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I had a small plastic strip too that I removed. It just seems like there is a weird 1/8” gap. Is this normal?
Are you sure the strip was supposed to be removed? Was it covering up the gap?
No it wasn’t covering it. It was just on the small glossy piece of plastic. It was a bubbled strip of thin cheap adhesive plastic. Not anti reflective at all.
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post #4716 of 6636 Old 06-25-2019, 07:31 PM
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No it wasn’t covering it. It was just on the small glossy piece of plastic. It was a bubbled strip of thin cheap adhesive plastic. Not anti reflective at all.
Oh, I'm talking about the glossy plastic strip that remains; yes, mine had a protective film on it as well. I can't make out much from your picture. The gap is below the glossy plastic strip? Maybe the strip was put on too high?
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post #4717 of 6636 Old 06-25-2019, 08:33 PM
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Won the panel lottery. Bought a really cheap Q9 and had insane vertical banding, and DSE. Returned it and got a 65” Q90R Version FA02. I don’t know if that’s the “good panels” but I have 0 vertical banding, and a very small very very light and very tolerable amount of DSE in the upper right corner. I know far less about hues and saturation, and don’t need to. I am actually happy with my purchase, and that’s what matters when spending so much on a TV.

One question I do have is now to remove the default processing of my image in game mode. I don’t want it trying to scale my 1080P image to 4K it ruins the image in my opinion. Just square the pixels and deliver the image as intended please.
Not upscaling is not an option. For easier math, your 4K tv has 4000 by 2000 lines of resolution whereas 1080p is 2000 by 1000. Without scaling the the lower res game would only take up 1/4 the screen, a snes game would look like a postage stamp stuck to your tv. If you wanna fill up the viewing real estate on a monitor, scaling must occur. Out of curiosity what gaming systems are you using? Hope this helps and doesn’t bum you out.
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post #4718 of 6636 Old 06-25-2019, 08:51 PM
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After contacting Samsung, a reset fixed the issue. Now the adaptative brightness of the intelligent mode is working again for all my sources.
Thanks for the update and super glad the solution was relatively simple! Was the reset a complete back to factory settings or the regular unplug type leaving picture and other adjustments intact?
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post #4719 of 6636 Old 06-25-2019, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mcervinojr View Post
Swapped out the Q80 with the Q90. First impressions: Picture quality and contrast looks much better. Blacks are deeper.

Only gripe...it seems the reflective filter on the 80 performed better in my space. Is that possible?

Also there’s a small gap on the bottom of the TV between the screen and bezel that looks unfinished to me. Is this gap normal?

Last thing. Ordered from Best Buy. Back of T.V. looked like it had dirt or dust on it. Very strange. Is there a way I can confirm (service menu perhaps) that this is not a refurb or open box?

dirt on the back was pretty common on 2018 models. seen quite a few Q9FN owners that had super dirty rear panels including myself.
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post #4720 of 6636 Old 06-25-2019, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mcervinojr View Post


Last thing. Ordered from Best Buy. Back of T.V. looked like it had dirt or dust on it. Very strange. Is; there a way I can confirm (service menu perhaps that this; is not a refurb or open box?
Can confirm. 3 out of 4 Q90s I tried, had dust on the back.

Last edited by Mike Lang; 06-27-2019 at 06:39 AM.
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post #4721 of 6636 Old 06-25-2019, 11:35 PM
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SOLD!!!!

82" Q90R to be delivered on the 29th. Almost went with the 82" 8K, but reviews are no where as good as the 90R so it was a pretty simple decision. Purchased from Samsung.com with the 4 year samsung warranty. Can't wait to game and enjoy the cinema at home. Previous model was the KS9800 which was an amazing TV but time for the newest and greatest.

Thanks to all the owners here that provided the feedback. AND WHY THIS THREAD HAS NO TALKING ABOUT PRICES. JUST bs.... If there's a great deal somewhere then share it, we're hear to help each other out. With that said. If you can find a way to buy it with an employee discount or college edu discount, it's well worth the effort.

Talk to you guys soon.
FINALLY!!!!

I posted that I purchased my TV on 5/16 and here it is 6/25 and it's finally connected and making magic. The shipping company Samsung uses is slow as slow can be. Worked out ok as I was at the US Open enjoying the chilly weather.
Initially I was very scared as my brother took delivery of the TV and the outside packaging of the TV was torn in numerous places. BUT, thankfully my brother said nothing appeared to have punctured through into the box itself. And worst of all the TV was upside down in the truck. So my brother took pics and the delivery guy took note and documented the areas of the box that was damaged in the event the TV was damaged inside.

So now I'm home and ready to setup AND FINGERS CROSSED that the TV is ok...
First. this TV, 82" and all, is a beast, and by beast I mean BIG and Heavy. I had my two brothers, a friend and myself and it was a small challenge. So either have it professionally installed or trusted helpers. Needless to say it was setup without a hitch. No damage to the screen and so far so good.
2nd, this is my 2nd Samsung Flagship TV and I have to say that I was disappointed in the cheap plastic remote, (I like the NETFLIX, PRIME, HULU buttons at my fingertips). The one connect box is in deed much, much bigger than previous models. The packaging of the one connect is cheap, previous models had a nice leather box with a magnetic flap, the new one was a card board box, cheap and disposable.
3rd, and most importantly, the picture... AND yes, it turned on and it was breath taking. The picture and size were amazing and incredible. I did not make any changes, and going on one week, still no picture adjustments and I'm still amazed by the picture. I particularly like the ambient mode which adjusts to the lighting in the room. And so far so good. Every time I sit down I am amazed at how beautiful the picture is.

I have the TV downstairs in my theater room and lighting is not an issue, so reflection is not an issue. Ceiling lights and wall lights are non existent on the screen. All I see is the picture of my movie, show or video game.

Here's where I struggled as not many owners really posted how they connected their TV.
I have a Yamaha Receiver, RX3060, and had previously connected everything through the receiver and then to the TV. Sure people commented on what you would lose, Audio vs Video, and honestly I was going to connect the xbox-one-x directly to the TV, but in my rush to see the TV on and working, I just the same setup and plugged the receiver directly into the TV. And you know what, it all works flawlessly. The TV no longer triggers the receiver to switch to the TV audio, (ARC). The xbox turns on the receiver and the TV and it all works the way it should. If I want to watch HULU, I press the HULU button on the TV remote and the ARC kicks in and the receiver switches, and if I exit HULU then the receiver switches back to the xbox where the cable is connected and my cable TV starts working as it should. So far I've been very impressed and happy.

The VRR option that this TV offers for gaming, not sure that it's needed as all my gaming runs smoothly and no hesitation at all but maybe my receiver passes the video from the xbox to the TV and the TV handles it and that's why I don't see an issue.

POINT BEING, this tv is awesome. So far no complaints and I'm ready to host Sunday afternoon golf, Sunday night baseball, and a RomCom to cap off the week.
If anyone has any questions feel free to ask.
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post #4722 of 6636 Old 06-25-2019, 11:45 PM
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I’m thinking of getting the Q90R 75”. I have now an LG E6 65”. I am concerned the Sammy will be way too bright. I’ve tried the 65” and when I lowered just the backlight setting it seemed to not look as good. So is there anyway to help get the picture OLED like brightness without looking worse then in default standard or movie mode settings? Is there a way to compensate for the lower backlight?

If I take my E6 and use it on default expert dark or default expert bright it looks fine. On the Sammy 65” I took default standard and default move. They look fine. Much brighter then the E6. But when I lowered backlight to try to be close to E6 in how bright they are the Sammy looks much worse. It’s based on how bright not like worse colors etc. I’m confused why such a huge difference. If I lowered the OLED light setting it got darker but the rest of the picture seemed to scale better then on the Sammy 65”. So I’m just curious if there’s anyway to compensate?

Also I noticed on the Sammy that white was too bright compared to the rest of the picture. Like say a car is driving in the dark towards the screen and it’s headlights are on. This is too bright compared to the rest of the picture. Is there a way to make things more even?

I’m wanting to get the Q90R 75” but I’m scared.
the q90r has an AMBIENT MODE that kicks in and adjusts the brightness (not the color or the picture quality) just the brightness to match the tv environment.
Stop being scared and pull the trigger. Trust me, you'll fall in love once you see this beauty of a tv.
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post #4723 of 6636 Old 06-26-2019, 12:39 PM
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When will Q90R 82" no-gap wall mount be available?

Hi all - I'm receiving my 82" Q90 this week - this is my first post, and thanks to this group for helping me make the decision. The no-gap wall mount isn't available on Samsung's web site, and places like B&H and ABT show pre-order (i.e. the WMN-R30EB/ZA Samsung No Gap Wall Mount for 82”+ Q Series TV (2019 Q90R/Q900R, 2018 Q900R)

Has anyone tried one of these before it went out of stock? Is there any reason to get the SS mount vs. a low-profile mount - I saw Cleveland had posted one with only a 0.35" spacing (Amazon product ID B007HQW0HQ - sorry, I can't post URLs yet).

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Originally Posted by raytseng View Post
The samsung nogap mount will be closer to the wall. If you look closely, it mounts with different attachment mechanism that will actually inset itself into the back of the TV so the back of the tv touches the back of the wall and not the VESA mounts.A generic mounting on the VESA will always need to offet with the standoffs and so will be little bit out.

Even with the samsung, there is going to be a gap viewed from the side, because the back of the TV is curved even if it touches the wall. If this annoys you, you either have to do some framing/blocking so the back of the tv is square rather than curved, or literally change your wall so it is inset.
I think practically, you will not notice after a little bit, as long as you go somewhat low profile. You may enjoy having the gap to allow you to do a little tilting to finetune your setup.

Pictures below showing samsung nogap versus a standard slim tilting mount

Attachment 2537968

Attachment 2537970
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post #4724 of 6636 Old 06-26-2019, 02:56 PM
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Hi all - I'm receiving my 82" Q90 this week - this is my first post, and thanks to this group for helping me make the decision. The no-gap wall mount isn't available on Samsung's web site, and places like B&H and ABT show pre-order (i.e. the WMN-R30EB/ZA Samsung No Gap Wall Mount for 82”+ Q Series TV (2019 Q90R/Q900R, 2018 Q900R)

Has anyone tried one of these before it went out of stock? Is there any reason to get the SS mount vs. a low-profile mount - I saw Cleveland had posted one with only a 0.35" spacing (Amazon product ID B007HQW0HQ - sorry, I can't post URLs yet).
I personally prefer a normal low profile mount. I use Hue led light strips behind the tv as a bias light, and it looks amazing. It would be very difficult with the new gap mount.
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post #4725 of 6636 Old 06-26-2019, 03:16 PM
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Hi all - I'm receiving my 82" Q90 this week - this is my first post, and thanks to this group for helping me make the decision. The no-gap wall mount isn't available on Samsung's web site, and places like B&H and ABT show pre-order (i.e. the WMN-R30EB/ZA Samsung No Gap Wall Mount for 82”+ Q Series TV (2019 Q90R/Q900R, 2018 Q900R)



Has anyone tried one of these before it went out of stock? Is there any reason to get the SS mount vs. a low-profile mount - I saw Cleveland had posted one with only a 0.35" spacing (Amazon product ID B007HQW0HQ - sorry, I can't post URLs yet).
I used a monoprice.com low profile mount and it is excellent!
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post #4726 of 6636 Old 06-26-2019, 09:48 PM
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I'm starting to really hate this TV because of the all HDMI-related issues I have with it...
I feel your pain. I use a Harmony remote to power on the appropriate devices and set all the inputs, but if I want to watch a source other than the TV, my receiver is now changing its input back to the HDMI device that the TV is connected to (for ARC). It has to be the TV, because I never had this problem before (I didn't use CEC before, because I didn't use ARC). But now CEC has to be enabled on the TV and receiver to use ARC, and it's forcing me to get up and manually switch the input back every time I switch to an input other than the TV.
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post #4727 of 6636 Old 06-26-2019, 10:11 PM
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I feel your pain. I use a Harmony remote to power on the appropriate devices and set all the inputs, but if I want to watch a source other than the TV, my receiver is now changing its input back to the HDMI device that the TV is connected to (for ARC). It has to be the TV, because I never had this problem before (I didn't use CEC before, because I didn't use ARC). But now CEC has to be enabled on the TV and receiver to use ARC, and it's forcing me to get up and manually switch the input back every time I switch to an input other than the TV.

Which receiver are you using?

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post #4728 of 6636 Old 06-27-2019, 03:29 AM
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Thanks for the update and super glad the solution was relatively simple! Was the reset a complete back to factory settings or the regular unplug type leaving picture and other adjustments intact?
I did a factory reset, so I had to configure the TV again after that.
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post #4729 of 6636 Old 06-27-2019, 05:25 AM
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I was completely happy with everything my Q90R has been doing until this weekend when i tried to watch "Too Old To Die Young" on the Amazon Prime built in app.

The blooming is just horrendous on my set trying to watch this show. Not just the blooming but there are instances where the entire screen will suddenly and noticeably dim. Now I am wondering if my TV is somehow defective or if it is a problem with the processing of HDR10+? Has anyone else tried watching this show on their Q90 built in app? I'd be curious to hear about your experience.

I am watching it on movie mode and i do have local dimming set to high.

It is a visually beautiful show so it's a shame that I am having these issues...
I know how you feel... Actually I have no solution for you, just want to share your feelings ...... I swaped my TV for another one, and still.... horrible blooming on 30% dark content at so manny scenes. This TV looks like low IPS for me on so manny scenes. So I dont know... or samsung sell some lowgrade broken q90 in my region or people here are blind. My old KS had waaaaaaaaaaaaay better black than this model. Something is going on..
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post #4730 of 6636 Old 06-27-2019, 06:28 AM
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Which receiver are you using?
It's a Denon AVR-4311
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post #4731 of 6636 Old 06-27-2019, 08:05 AM
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I am getting delivery of my 75Q90R on July 5. I was debating on waiting for next year to get HDMI 2.1, but I couldn't hold out any longer. I had been looking to upgrade as soon as HDMI 2.1 was available, but my 65" Sharp 3d 1080p died the day before the superbowl and I have been limping by with a cheap 50" samsung that I picked up to make do. I just couldn't make it to next year. In the end, the Samsung EPP and 2 year upgrade program swayed me. Figure I'll upgrade to an 82" in two years and it should definitely have 2.1 by then.

In the mean time, I need to upgrade my receiver as well; my old one supports 3d, but not 4k hdr. I plan on connecting my Xbox One, PS4 and 4k Blu Ray player directly to the TV. With the receiver, that takes up all 4 ports. Then my Xfinity cable box, Shield TV and Nintendo Switch will connect to the receiver. Does anyone have a good recommendation for a receiver that plays nicely with the CEC/ARC on the Q90R that supports 4k/HDR? Preferably one that doesn't break the bank as I may need to upgrade it again in 2 years for HDMI 2.1 and maybe HDR10+ support.

Should I even try to use CEC/ARC? Or am I better off just using an optical cable? I only have a 5.1 system and am by no means an audiophile (much more visually inclined than auditory). I also use a harmony remote to set up inputs and such, so I have no need for the CEC control aspects. If optical, would it be best to run one optical cable from the TV to the receiver, or would it be better to find a receiver with multiple optical inputs and run a cable each from the TV, Xbox and PS4? Thanks for any help you can provide.
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post #4732 of 6636 Old 06-27-2019, 09:16 AM
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It's a Denon AVR-4311
Nice receiver. I assume that it predates having the option to control CEC and ARC independently?

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post #4733 of 6636 Old 06-27-2019, 09:19 AM
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I know how you feel... Actually I have no solution for you, just want to share your feelings ...... I swaped my TV for another one, and still.... horrible blooming on 30% dark content at so manny scenes. This TV looks like low IPS for me on so manny scenes. So I dont know... or samsung sell some lowgrade broken q90 in my region or people here are blind. My old KS had waaaaaaaaaaaaay better black than this model. Something is going on..
Yeah, i'm not even sure if blooming is the correct terminology for what i'm seeing. To be more specific, the local dimming just seems to be way to aggressive on certain scenes, even on the low setting. And forget about turning subtitles on, the screen will just pulse as it brightens with the subtitles and then dims when they disappear.

Super annoying -- it would be great if someone else that has watched the show can comment. I'm curious if my set is messed up or this is just how it is.
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post #4734 of 6636 Old 06-27-2019, 09:29 AM
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Yeah, i'm not even sure if blooming is the correct terminology for what i'm seeing. To be more specific, the local dimming just seems to be way to aggressive on certain scenes, even on the low setting. And forget about turning subtitles on, the screen will just pulse as it brightens with the subtitles and then dims when they disappear.



Super annoying -- it would be great if someone else that has watched the show can comment. I'm curious if my set is messed up or this is just how it is.
What picture modes do you have this issue with? Does any one picture mode seem better than others?

Let us know your picture settings!
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post #4735 of 6636 Old 06-27-2019, 09:29 AM
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I am getting delivery of my 75Q90R on July 5. I was debating on waiting for next year to get HDMI 2.1, but I couldn't hold out any longer. I had been looking to upgrade as soon as HDMI 2.1 was available, but my 65" Sharp 3d 1080p died the day before the superbowl and I have been limping by with a cheap 50" samsung that I picked up to make do. I just couldn't make it to next year. In the end, the Samsung EPP and 2 year upgrade program swayed me. Figure I'll upgrade to an 82" in two years and it should definitely have 2.1 by then.

In the mean time, I need to upgrade my receiver as well; my old one supports 3d, but not 4k hdr. I plan on connecting my Xbox One, PS4 and 4k Blu Ray player directly to the TV. With the receiver, that takes up all 4 ports. Then my Xfinity cable box, Shield TV and Nintendo Switch will connect to the receiver. Does anyone have a good recommendation for a receiver that plays nicely with the CEC/ARC on the Q90R that supports 4k/HDR? Preferably one that doesn't break the bank as I may need to upgrade it again in 2 years for HDMI 2.1 and maybe HDR10+ support.

Should I even try to use CEC/ARC? Or am I better off just using an optical cable? I only have a 5.1 system and am by no means an audiophile (much more visually inclined than auditory). I also use a harmony remote to set up inputs and such, so I have no need for the CEC control aspects. If optical, would it be best to run one optical cable from the TV to the receiver, or would it be better to find a receiver with multiple optical inputs and run a cable each from the TV, Xbox and PS4? Thanks for any help you can provide.

If you don't want to break the piggy bank you could get a mid-level receiver like a Denon 740H/940H or an Onkyo 6/7 series. Run all your devices into that via HDMI and an optical from the TV to the receiver for audio from internal apps if you plan on using any of them.

82Q90R / Denon X6400H / Polk Audio LSI 7.1.4 / Nvidia Shield Pro 2019 / Panasonic DP-UB820 4K BluRay / Xbox One X / PS4 Pro / Nintendo Switch / Custom Gaming PC / Custom VR PC / HTC Vive Pro HMD (Wireless)
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post #4736 of 6636 Old 06-27-2019, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
Get an AVR that has enough HDMI ports for all your devices, and plug everything into it.

If you choose to connect your gear to a tv, unless both the AVR and TV have hdmi eARC you'll miss out on lossless audio, Atmos, DTSX. Regular ARC can't pass that. Optical; TV to AVR passes sound and believe it's only 5.1 lossy.

Standard and 4k blu-rays offer lossless and can only be passed through hdmi. Optical is old school like composite, component and svideo. Notice most receiver don't have those jacks anymore.

You don't need to be an audiophile to hear the difference between lossy and lossless. Just as you don't need to be a videophile to see the difference between SD, HD and 4k. Why watch a blu-ray with superior PQ over dvd and not take advantage of the lossless sound quality on the blu-ray or 4k disc.
I picked up a Panasonic DP-UB820 Blu Ray player that has dual HDMI outputs. So, for watching 4k Blu Rays I will have audio direct to the receiver for high quality audio and video direct to the TV for high quality video (HDR10+ when available). I want to connect the Xbox and PS4 direct to the TV to take advantage of freesync on xbox one and to reduce input lag as well as ALLM. So, from an audio standpoint, I am more concerned with the audio coming from the Xbox, PS4 and TV's built in streaming apps (the apps that support HDR10+ anyways, otherwise I'll use my Nvidia shield TV). Anyone know if the Amazon Video streaming app on the Panasonic DP-UB820 supports HDR10+ and/or is any good?

So, my choices for the gaming consoles are to use the TV ARC over HDMI, TV Optical to receiver, or run individual optical from each. I would be fine using the TV ARC as long as it works properly. In the past CEC has been screwy with me and I just disable it and let my harmony sort the inputs. (I previously had everything hooked up the way you describe, all through my receiver, but I also didn't have a TV with gaming features that are only available by connecting the gaming console directly to the TV.)

I'd like to start by using the HDMI ARC if possible for the gaming consoles (less cables). I am just curious if anyone knows of a specific receiver that plays nicely with this TV's CEC/ARC. i.e. it doesn't switch inputs in an undesirable way (like Darin mentions above). It would be great if there was a way to turn on the ARC part of CEC while disabling the input/external device control part of CEC.

Last edited by GatorArchitect; 06-27-2019 at 09:46 AM.
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post #4737 of 6636 Old 06-27-2019, 09:38 AM
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I fixed the subtitle pulsing on my Q80R. Sure it can help you Q90R guys. Dont know what player you are using but on Kodi I drop the subtitle opacity to 70% and color to gray. They are less distracting this way and dont blind you in night scenes and as far as I can see now they dont impact the overall image brigtness at all.
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post #4738 of 6636 Old 06-27-2019, 10:05 AM
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What picture modes do you have this issue with? Does any one picture mode seem better than others?

Let us know your picture settings!
I watch on the movie mode setting and I usually have local dimming set to high and auto motion turned off. I also turn off all the noise reduction settings and smart settings.

This is the first time, I have had noticeable and reoccurring issues with dimming/local dimming/subtitles -- watching "Too Old to Die Young" on the built in Amazon app.

The show is in HDR10+ which is nuts to me because that is Samsung's own HDR standard! If there is one area where the TV should shine and have ZERO issues it is with HDR10+ content.
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post #4739 of 6636 Old 06-27-2019, 10:20 AM
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I have not allowed my 75" to update.
Should I allow this to happen?
Which port is to be used for arc?

Remembering Dad's passing 01/16/2017


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post #4740 of 6636 Old 06-27-2019, 10:54 AM
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I feel your pain. I use a Harmony remote to power on the appropriate devices and set all the inputs, but if I want to watch a source other than the TV, my receiver is now changing its input back to the HDMI device that the TV is connected to (for ARC). It has to be the TV, because I never had this problem before (I didn't use CEC before, because I didn't use ARC). But now CEC has to be enabled on the TV and receiver to use ARC, and it's forcing me to get up and manually switch the input back every time I switch to an input other than the TV.
You can get around this by adding an input change to your Harmony for your receiver. After your last command completes insert an ~20 second delay and then a command to change the reciever to the desired input.

Samsung: QN65Q90RAFXZA 4K HDR TV * Panasonic: DP-UB820 4K HDR Blu Ray * Onkyo: TX-RZ920 A/V Receiver * M&K: S-150 THX Speakers & DIY: 15" Subwoofer w/ E.D. E15a.22 Driver & Rythmik Audio 380w AMP * URC: MX-990 Universal Remote & MRF 260 Base Station * Samsung: Galaxy S10 Plus
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