2019 Samsung Q90R Owners Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 176 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5251 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 09:06 AM
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A farewell to my UN55B8500, my last post in the UN55B8500 thread.

Bye-bye my old friend! Two years ago you started clicking turning power on and off and I sent your power board for repair. Just 50 dollars, not a big deal. Last week you started clicking again. You are very heavy my friend, with my back issues I can't lift you anymore without someone's help. It was a difficult decision, you became a member of our family and a bright window into the world of best movies and shows. Well, you passed peacefully and now it's time to move on. We purchased a new, state of the art Q90R. But with all Q90R bells and whistles you still were the best!

Rest in peace!
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post #5252 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 09:13 AM
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My 75 inch is supposed to arrive tomorrow. This thread has some great information , but it’s scattered over 179 pages.

Does anyone have a “quick guide” of helpful info stashed anywhere? I know a good reference for settings is Rtings, but I’ve seen so many other tid bits that I’m trying to jot down.

I guess what I’m getting at is are there any “must do” settings changes I should do or enable right out of the box to get max performance?

Also any good test links on YouTube that I can run my panel through to make sure no panel issues?

Thank you!
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post #5253 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ray0414 View Post
BTW, on my 82, about my widescreen bars,they are lit up gray 100% of the time unless the screen is nearly black. anyone else have this serious of a widescreen bar issue?

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Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
What are your settings?
Example, if MOVIE, what settings?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ray0414 View Post
USA. getting a replacement sometime this week.
Ray, you asked why your bars are gray. I asked, Post 5180...What are your settings?
Example, if MOVIE, what settings?

We're here to help, but if you don't reply, you maybe missing the opportunity to correct the issue.

I've been tweeting all my settings for a while now and depending on what one chooses, the outcome can affect other areas, example, make the bars gray.

What ever settings you're using on this tv, the replacement set may provide the same results if you use the same settings.
Without sharing your settings, you may find out you created the problem, hence no need for a replacement tv. Or, those setting are good, replace the tv.

Replacing the tv, with panel lottery, you may acquire at tv with more issues.

happyness ;>)
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post #5254 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maskgordon View Post
My 75 inch is supposed to arrive tomorrow. This thread has some great information , but it’s scattered over 179 pages.

Does anyone have a “quick guide” of helpful info stashed anywhere? I know a good reference for settings is Rtings, but I’ve seen so many other tid bits that I’m trying to jot down.

I guess what I’m getting at is are there any “must do” settings changes I should do or enable right out of the box to get max performance?

Also any good test links on YouTube that I can run my panel through to make sure no panel issues?

Thank you!
I would not run any type of test unless you want to be disappointed, those tests are passed by very few TV's, if ever......Enjoy what you have, if you see issues then investigate The settings in Rtings may or may not do your TV justice so just remember that. Here is a test about shared calibration settings <<< Click Here >>>
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post #5255 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
Ray, you asked why your bars are gray. I asked, Post 5180...What are your settings?

Example, if MOVIE, what settings?



We're here to help, but if you don't reply, you maybe missing the opportunity to correct the issue.



I've been tweeting all my settings for a while now and depending on what one chooses, the outcome can affect other areas, example, make the bars gray.



What ever settings you're using on this tv, the replacement set may provide the same results if you use the same settings.

Without sharing your settings, you may find out you created the problem, hence no need for a replacement tv. Or, those setting are good, replace the tv.



Replacing the tv, with panel lottery, you may acquire at tv with more issues.
Ray clearly had a defective set, with a section of zones not functioning.

Samsung 82” Q90R * Denon X4500H * 5.2.4 Atmos * Xbox One X * PS4 Pro
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post #5256 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRAC View Post
Ray clearly had a defective set, with a section of zones not functioning.
That section of zones not functioning; may or may not have to do with how his settings affect the black/graying of the bars he asked about.

happyness ;>)
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post #5257 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
That section of zones not functioning; may or may not have to do with how his settings affect the black/graying of the bars he asked about.
I'm very familiar with Samsung sets. the current set has defective zones so the swap will be here Tuesday I think. unfortunately I won't be able to put the new 82q90r next to my 75Q9FN which was picked up last Tuesday for my warranty claim.
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post #5258 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 05:05 PM
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When I bring up the banner it doesn’t show any info. It just has date and time. And this is random. Sometimes it’ll show correct info. Other times no info. Other times wrong. I have to reset to factory default and that fixes it for then. But later same problem. Update software says I’m on newest.

Should I exchange this or what? I had the Q900RB for a week plus and the banner always showed the right info.

Is my software hosed?
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post #5259 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by buggs1a View Post
When I bring up the banner it doesn’t show any info. It just has date and time. And this is random. Sometimes it’ll show correct info. Other times no info. Other times wrong. I have to reset to factory default and that fixes it for then. But later same problem.
See this post for something maybe similar?
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post #5260 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
So you threw away the metric bolt pack that came with old mount? I do not know the bolt size but they are probably a M6 or M8 course/standard thread, NOT fine. The lenth is the question, these bolts can be found at the home depot
I must have, can't find it anywhere. It was an M8, but the length way way to long. The JS9000 came with a lot bigger mount adapter (shaped like a cone) than the small spacer that the new Q90R came with, so I used that cone-like mount adapter and the screw size length was exactly how I had the JS9000 mounted. So all turned out OK.

Thanks for the reply.
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post #5261 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thoth View Post
See this post for something maybe similar?
That has nothing to do with me. I don’t have any other remote.
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post #5262 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 08:17 PM
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That has nothing to do with me. I don’t have any other remote.
What sequence are you using to "bring up the banner"?
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post #5263 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
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What sequence are you using to "bring up the banner"?
Just push the center button on the remote.
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post #5264 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buggs1a View Post
Just push the center button on the remote.
Are you talking about the Quick Settings? Could you post a picture of the banner that you're referencing. Then we can be sure we are all on the same page.

Samsung: QN65Q90RAFXZA 4K HDR TV * Panasonic: DP-UB820 4K HDR Blu Ray * Onkyo: TX-RZ920 A/V Receiver * M&K: S-150 THX Speakers & DIY: 15" Subwoofer w/ E.D. E15a.22 Driver & Rythmik Audio 380w AMP * URC: MX-990 Universal Remote & MRF 260 Base Station * Samsung: Galaxy S10 Plus
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post #5265 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 08:44 PM
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Are you talking about the Quick Settings? Could you post a picture of the banner that you're referencing. Then we can be sure we are all on the same page.
Can’t post picture that I know.
I’m talking you’re watching tv. A movie. Game. Whatever. You push to bring up the top banner that is supposed to tell you what everything is. Input name on left. On right the res and UHD and hdr etc.
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post #5266 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by buggs1a View Post
Can’t post picture that I know.
I’m talking you’re watching tv. A movie. Game. Whatever. You push to bring up the top banner that is supposed to tell you what everything is. Input name on left. On right the res and UHD and hdr etc.
Here is a picture of my banner while watching Cable TV. I was unable to bring up a banner while watching Netflix or Amazon.

What are you seeing or not seeing that is different?
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Samsung: QN65Q90RAFXZA 4K HDR TV * Panasonic: DP-UB820 4K HDR Blu Ray * Onkyo: TX-RZ920 A/V Receiver * M&K: S-150 THX Speakers & DIY: 15" Subwoofer w/ E.D. E15a.22 Driver & Rythmik Audio 380w AMP * URC: MX-990 Universal Remote & MRF 260 Base Station * Samsung: Galaxy S10 Plus
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post #5267 of 5686 Old 07-21-2019, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikejl View Post
Here is a picture of my banner while watching Cable TV. I was unable to bring up a banner while watching Netflix or Amazon.

What are you seeing or not seeing that is different?
Mine won’t show that info you have on the top right. It shows the date and time only. Only sometimes does it show the correct info. And I’ve reset to factory a few times. Software update says I’m on the newest. 1307 I think.
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post #5268 of 5686 Old 07-22-2019, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by CCSchoch View Post
I must have, can't find it anywhere. It was an M8, but the length way way to long. The JS9000 came with a lot bigger mount adapter (shaped like a cone) than the small spacer that the new Q90R came with, so I used that cone-like mount adapter and the screw size length was exactly how I had the JS9000 mounted. So all turned out OK.

Thanks for the reply.
I forgot to mention / ask / comment on the length of the bolt that is actually inside the TV is only about 1/2 an inch at most. This is how my old JS9000 was mounted as well with the cone shaped plastic mounting adapter, so I figured it was fine. I was surprised when taking the old TV off the wall yesterday about how little of the bolt is actually inside the TV (insert your own size joke here).

Has me thinking, I wonder if I should actually go to home depot and pickup a couple shorter M8 bolts and use the smaller spacers that came with the Q90R.

For anyone here who's mounted the Q90R, what's the estimated length of the bolt that's actually inserted into the TV when you mounted it?
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post #5269 of 5686 Old 07-22-2019, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buggs1a View Post
Mine won’t show that info you have on the top right. It shows the date and time only. Only sometimes does it show the correct info. And I’ve reset to factory a few times. Software update says I’m on the newest. 1307 I think.
I don't really pay that much attention to that banner so I don't know what are it's behavior patterns are supposed to be. You can contact Samsung tech support and have them remote in to check it out and see what they say.

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post #5270 of 5686 Old 07-22-2019, 08:17 AM
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Bad experience on my Amazon Prime day purchase of the 82Q90. Delivered on appointed Friday just before noon with two people and perfect box. Problem was that they shipped an 82Q70. Immediatly went to the Amazon site and after some bopping around finally got to speak to a human. They couldn't process a replacement til the following Monday--my guess is that the delivery data in their system is batch processed overnight. Was told that the earliest probable redelivery would be the following Friday. Immediately went to my nearest Magnolia and asked if they would price match Amazon Prime day deal: Yes. Told them if they could deliver that day (friday) or saturday, I'd do the deal. After mobilizing a Geek Squad truck, got the set in an hour. Moral--if a B & M store will honor the Amazon price, go for it. Amazon is charging sales tax anyway.

I had prefabbed a mount for the one-connect box at the rear of the TV. I used a piece of 3/4 inch plywood with 1/4" felt pads underneath to raise the TV by an inch to clear my center speaker and the presence of the wood board gave a ready-made mounting point. First pictures show the one connect box in a little holster attached to the riser board. It only feels slightly warm to the touch after hours of use, so the free air is good for it. The reports of heat when the one connect box is inside a cabinet made me look for another solution (that didn't involve a fan). The later pictures show the mount under construction for greater detail. I made the mount extra tall, until I could get the TV in place to measure just how tall it needed to be. The first pictures show it could be a lot shorter than I initially allowed for.

The last picture is of the front of the TV with the Polk S35 Center speaker. The two speakers on either side are AT Dolby Atmos speakers.

I think I won the panel lottery. Netflix letterbox bars are inky black and the HDR has to be seen to be believed. In one scene in the French production of "Dark", a flashlight is sent spinning thru the air and the flashes as it points toward the camera are stunning--one of the best illustrations of the performance of a really bright TV with HDR.
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JVC RS600 Chad-callibrated, 120" 1.3g in Batcave HT, Denon X8500 Polk LSiM703 fronts,
RTi-12 rears, LSiM 706 center, Monitor 40 Heights, Monitor 60 FW, FXiA4 Bi-pole sides,
LSiC CH, Infinity 6" VOG. 4X 12" subs w/mini DSP on sub 1 and nearfield 18" from sub 2.
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post #5271 of 5686 Old 07-22-2019, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted99 View Post
Bad experience on my Amazon Prime day purchase of the 82Q90. Delivered on appointed Friday just before noon with two people and perfect box. Problem was that they shipped an 82Q70. Immediatly went to the Amazon site and after some bopping around finally got to speak to a human. They couldn't process a replacement til the following Monday--my guess is that the delivery data in their system is batch processed overnight. Was told that the earliest probable redelivery would be the following Friday. Immediately went to my nearest Magnolia and asked if they would price match Amazon Prime day deal: Yes. Told them if they could deliver that day (friday) or saturday, I'd do the deal. After mobilizing a Geek Squad truck, got the set in an hour. Moral--if a B & M store will honor the Amazon price, go for it. Amazon is charging sales tax anyway.

I had prefabbed a mount for the one-connect box at the rear of the TV. I used a piece of 3/4 inch plywood with 1/4" felt pads underneath to raise the TV by an inch to clear my center speaker and the presence of the wood board gave a ready-made mounting point. First pictures show the one connect box in a little holster attached to the riser board. It only feels slightly warm to the touch after hours of use, so the free air is good for it. The reports of heat when the one connect box is inside a cabinet made me look for another solution (that didn't involve a fan). The later pictures show the mount under construction for greater detail. I made the mount extra tall, until I could get the TV in place to measure just how tall it needed to be. The first pictures show it could be a lot shorter than I initially allowed for.

The last picture is of the front of the TV with the Polk S35 Center speaker. The two speakers on either side are AT Dolby Atmos speakers.

I think I won the panel lottery. Netflix letterbox bars are inky black and the HDR has to be seen to be believed. In one scene in the French production of "Dark", a flashlight is sent spinning thru the air and the flashes as it points toward the camera are stunning--one of the best illustrations of the performance of a really bright TV with HDR.
Nice set up. I am getting my 65 inch version tomorrow. I am also going to raise the TV one inch to clear a S35 center speaker. I am going to just use a flat piece of wood with felt pads, but after seeing your pictures, my wife wants to look into a fancy mount like you made. She wants to know if you could share the schematics of your mount.

According to the measurements that I have seen, the stand itself raises the TV 3.75 inches. My S35 speaker is 4.5 inches high. It looks to me like you have more clearance between the TV and the center speaker than a one inch mount would provide, if the measurements for the TV that I have seen are correct.
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post #5272 of 5686 Old 07-22-2019, 08:59 AM
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The default audio delay for ARC within the Q90R menus is 100 ms (I believe), I needed to turn it close to 0 ms to get it to synch.

there is another place in the settings menu that allows changes to audio delay issues..........but I can't remember it right now

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post #5273 of 5686 Old 07-22-2019, 09:11 AM
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had my 75" q90 for a couple of weeks & still trying to learn all the ins & outs, so I have a couple of questions......


should input signal plus be selected for all the hdmi inputs
how do I gain access to the hdmi black level adjustment
the only 4k content that I presently have access too is via the 4k demo's on you tube, is there a way to see if hdr is enabled while watching those? what about the signal info showing the 2160 x?

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post #5274 of 5686 Old 07-22-2019, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by buggs1a View Post
Mine won’t show that info you have on the top right. It shows the date and time only. Only sometimes does it show the correct info. And I’ve reset to factory a few times. Software update says I’m on the newest. 1307 I think.
I've seen the same thing using the middle button when viewing my PC source. I think it's just a variation on the problems I described in that previous post; buggy firmware. Unfortunately, multiple clicks of the middle button don't correct the banner, whereas multiple clicks of the discrete HDMI source button do correct it. FWIW, the middle button doesn't bring up the banner for my Bluray player source, and annoyingly it acts as a pause button for my cable box source, even with CEC disabled.
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post #5275 of 5686 Old 07-22-2019, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiserchuck View Post
Nice set up. I am getting my 65 inch version tomorrow. I am also going to raise the TV one inch to clear a S35 center speaker. I am going to just use a flat piece of wood with felt pads, but after seeing your pictures, my wife wants to look into a fancy mount like you made. She wants to know if you could share the schematics of your mount.

According to the measurements that I have seen, the stand itself raises the TV 3.75 inches. My S35 speaker is 4.5 inches high. It looks to me like you have more clearance between the TV and the center speaker than a one inch mount would provide, if the measurements for the TV that I have seen are correct.
You are right, mine is raised a little more than needed for the S35. The factory stand has plastic buttons on the bottom for clearance of the one-connect cable when it is routed under the stand. I think those buttons add another 1/4" in height. The good thing about the Q90 is that the remote is bluetooth after initialization, so one doesn't need to have the IR receiver visible. My opinion is that the Q90 doesn't need to be raised at all for use with the S35 if your console is low and has you looking directly at the TV.

Warning: this thing weighs a ton and you WILL need two strong people to lift it to slip in a spacer board, if you didn't do it in the first place.

Sorry, no drawings. It was all cut and try as I went along. The slots for the one-connect box were widened, after I saw that the 82" box is thicker than the one for the 75". I ended up with 3 1/2" from the original 3" (for the 75" box), leaving 1/4" for two small felt pads to space the box out from the rear ply panel for air circulation.

I did it from pieces of scrap plywood/wood, so it isn't very elegant. The stand sizes for the 75" and 82" are different. My U supports are about 14" apart. The important thing is to set the TV stand on the spacer plywood board first off. All the rest can be added later and you can get the sizes perfect for your setup.

I found the felt pads to be really helpful in sliding the TV's position around on the console, so I wouldn't leave them off. The bottom ply board could be 1/2" and still be thick enough to take 2" wood screws in end-wise, AND still clear the TV for the S35, if you use the felt pads. My board supporting the U-supports for the one-connect box is 1/2". The "U" brackets for the one-connect were cut from scrap 1" pine boards.

I really like it because the one-connect box is "attached" to the TV and once you have it in place, no amount of jockeying the TV around will move the one-connect cable, which I understand is rather sensitive to tight curves and kinks because of the fiber optic cable. I also like having all the connections pointing "up" for space considerations and because they are less likely to be dislodged when sliding the TV.

Isn't that Polk S35 Center speaker great? It's got a 1" dome tweeter, so it's compatible with my other Polk towers, the six 3 1/2"mid-range speakers provide plenty of power in the audible range and the enclosure seems to be cast metal, so it's really stiff. It's 4 1/2" height is super for putting directly in front of the TV. I was using a Polk CSiA6 center with the TV the Q90 replaced and honestly, I can't hear any difference with my 5.4.1 setup.

JVC RS600 Chad-callibrated, 120" 1.3g in Batcave HT, Denon X8500 Polk LSiM703 fronts,
RTi-12 rears, LSiM 706 center, Monitor 40 Heights, Monitor 60 FW, FXiA4 Bi-pole sides,
LSiC CH, Infinity 6" VOG. 4X 12" subs w/mini DSP on sub 1 and nearfield 18" from sub 2.

Last edited by Ted99; 07-22-2019 at 10:14 AM.
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post #5276 of 5686 Old 07-22-2019, 10:35 AM
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I just received my 75 inch and unboxing now. This may be a dumb question but do I need to use the one connect box if I have a receiver? It’s being wall mounted but shouldn’t I just plug the hdmi from my recover into the arc hdmi in the tv itself?

Why would I need the one connect if I have a receiver?
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post #5277 of 5686 Old 07-22-2019, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by maskgordon View Post
I just received my 75 inch and unboxing now. This may be a dumb question but do I need to use the one connect box if I have a receiver? It’s being wall mounted but shouldn’t I just plug the hdmi from my recover into the arc hdmi in the tv itself?

Why would I need the one connect if I have a receiver?
Yes, you need to use the OCB. All the connections for the tv go through the OCB. You would just connect your receiver to the ARC on the OCB.

Speakers: Paradigm Monitor 9's, CC-290, ADP 190's, Sub: Outlaw LFM-1 EX, Receiver: Denon AVR-X4500H, Televisions: Samsung QN75Q90RAFXZA, Sony XBR-49X900E, Blu-ray Player: Panasonic - DP-UB820, Region Free Blu-ray Player: Oppo 103D
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post #5278 of 5686 Old 07-22-2019, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by marmup View Post
Yes, you need to use the OCB. All the connections for the tv go through the OCB. You would just connect your receiver to the ARC on the OCB.
Not to mention the power for the TV also comes from the OCB. No getting around using it.
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post #5279 of 5686 Old 07-22-2019, 11:41 AM
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should input signal plus be selected for all the hdmi inputs
how do I gain access to the hdmi black level adjustment
I don't think it hurts to enable Input Signal Plus on all, but you only need it for high bandwidth sources, basically anything capable of transmitting at 4K resolution.

AFAIK the HDMI Black Level setting is only enabled when the current source is 8-bit RGB.
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post #5280 of 5686 Old 07-22-2019, 12:14 PM
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BTW, on my 82, about my widescreen bars,they are lit up gray 100% of the time unless the screen is nearly black. anyone else have this serious of a widescreen bar issue?

75Q9FN*55C8oled* Oppo 203/UB820*S10+*DenonX4200
I was upgrading from the 75" Q90R to the 82" Q90R. When they set up the TV, the blooming black bars is exactly what I saw. I politely asked them to go back out to the truck and bring my 75" back into the house and to take the 82" away.

The backlight zone setup of the 82" TV is 40x12 zones.
On the 75", it is 30x16 zones.

On the 75, the edge of widescreen black bars lines up with the first 2 zones at the top and bottom of the screen.
On the 82", the edge of the widescreen black bars lines up with the first 1.5 zones at the top and bottom of the screen.

The 82" will always have blooming into those black bars as a result.
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