2019 Samsung Q90R Owners Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 189 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5641 of 6086 Old 08-14-2019, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Nillaz View Post
The Q90R kills power to the USB ports when you power down the TV.
Nillaz, do you, or anyone else, know what the output of the 3 USB ports are? Are they different or possibly all are 5V?

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post #5642 of 6086 Old 08-14-2019, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
Nillaz, do you, or anyone else, know what the output of the 3 USB ports are? Are they different or possibly all are 5V?

All of them are 5v. 2 of them are 500mA, the third is 1 amp.

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post #5643 of 6086 Old 08-14-2019, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
Nillaz, do you, or anyone else, know what the output of the 3 USB ports are? Are they different or possibly all are 5V?
All are 5V but one has 1A current rating (for USB HDD). Two has the normal 0.5A rating.
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post #5644 of 6086 Old 08-14-2019, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Nillaz View Post
All of them are 5v. 2 of them are 500mA, the third is 1 amp.
Getting access to my OCB is difficult because of it's placement. I believe there are 3 usb jacks on the left end of the box. Are they labeled 1,2,3?
Will I assume 1,2 are 5v 500mA, 3 is 5v 1amp ? Are they all USB 3.0?

I'm researching bias lighting that plugs into the tv's (OCB) USB port for power. Most bias lighting kits require a 5v USB and that the port should turn off when the tv does.

Medialight states: USB 2.0 or USB 3.0. Almost all of our units run on 2.0 except for the Quad, which is about 700 mA.

It's my understanding the USB port on the OCB is on only when the tv is on. TV's turned off, USB in the OCB will turn off.
I just need to know which USB port I'll use for the bias lighting. USB port 3 5v 1amp?

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Last edited by bekindrewind; 08-14-2019 at 09:30 PM.
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post #5645 of 6086 Old 08-14-2019, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
Getting access to my OCB is difficult because of it's placement. I believe there are 3 usb jacks on the left end of the box. Are they labeled 1,2,3?
Will I assume 1,2 are 5v 500mA, 3 is 5v 1amp ? Are they all USB 3.0?

I'm researching bias lighting that plugs into the tv's (OCB) USB port for power. Most bias lighting kits require a 5v USB and that the port should turn off when the tv does.

Medialight states: USB 2.0 or USB 3.0. Almost all of our units run on 2.0 except for the Quad, which is about 700 mA.

It's my understanding the USB port on the OCB is on only when the tv is on. TV's turned off, USB in the OCB will turn off.
I just need to know which USB port I'll use for the bias lighting. USB port 3 5v 1amp?

The 1 amp USB port is the one in the middle.


I have a Medialight Quad system. I don't want to get into it tonight because it's getting pretty late, but if you like I can hook it into the One Connect box to verify that it works as expected.

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post #5646 of 6086 Old 08-14-2019, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Ted99 View Post
I'm using standard mode and I reduced the backlight from 50 to 20 after my wife complained the TV was too bright (I agreed with her). It is slightly dimmer and the biggest difference is in the HDR. In one scene of Netflix's "Black Spot", a flashlight goes spinning and as it faces the camera the flashes are very bright. After reducing to 20, the flashes are not as bright, but are still bright flashes. I might sneak the backlight up to 25 without telling her.

Thank you for your response. tonyjspr9 PM'd me explaining that my issue was probably because I had my setting in eco mode to limit the backlight adjustments. It turns out he was correct. Once I turned off the setting I was able to adjust the backlight as high as I wished. I am still not sure why it only had this issue in standard mode whilst in all other modes I was able to adjust the brightness level despite not touching the eco settings.
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post #5647 of 6086 Old 08-14-2019, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by John Alexander View Post
Update....

After messing with it on and off for a couple hours finally was able to get it to turn back on after messing with the one connect cable to the one connect box end. Definitely something weird going on with that connection. Possibly a short? Tech supposed to come out on tuesday, hopefully he has an extra cable and one connect box.

I am thinking the same. You may have initially pinched the cable and somehow it became damaged.
Anyway I wish you the best with things. Keep us updated as to what the issue turned out to be.
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post #5648 of 6086 Old 08-14-2019, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bjorktribe View Post
No problem! It's a good community here.

I watch on Standard and backlight adjusts at every increment in both SDR & HDR. I have to assume this is correct behavior as it wouldn't make sense to have the control be ineffective for 90% of the available slider.

As for brightness, the video below is a SDR black level calibration pattern. Here you will be able to see the difference the brightness slider makes. The vertical bars will be come a lighter shade as you adjust brightness to the positive. Think of Near Black Gamma like shadow detail if it helps.

https://youtu.be/8b3CUm8j4DE

Thanks for the link. I plan God willing on watching it after I post this...


As far as the brightness level it turns out that I had the setting in eco mode to limit the backlight. For some odd reason it only limited it in standard mode. Anyway, thank you for your response. tonyjspr9 PM'd me explaining that my issue was probably because I had my setting in eco mode to limit the backlight adjustments. It turns out he was correct. Upon changing things in that setting I am now able to adjust the backlight all the way to the max. It's good to know. As you said "It's a good community here."
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post #5649 of 6086 Old 08-15-2019, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Big Shmooz View Post
Thanks for the link. I plan God willing on watching it after I post this...


As far as the brightness level it turns out that I had the setting in eco mode to limit the backlight. For some odd reason it only limited it in standard mode. Anyway, thank you for your response. tonyjspr9 PM'd me explaining that my issue was probably because I had my setting in eco mode to limit the backlight adjustments. It turns out he was correct. Upon changing things in that setting I am now able to adjust the backlight all the way to the max. It's good to know. As you said "It's a good community here."
Glad it was resolved! I didn't even think of that. Eco mode is definitely hit or miss for reliability. On earlier versions of the OS, I had to reset my TV because eco mode wouldn't stop controlling the brightness despite being shut off.

Now go enjoy the picture!
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post #5650 of 6086 Old 08-15-2019, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by JanB View Post
All are 5V but one has 1A current rating (for USB HDD). Two has the normal 0.5A rating.
For those considering the Lumidoodle LED backlight, the longest version runs fine on the 0.5A socket.

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post #5651 of 6086 Old 08-15-2019, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by BRAC View Post
I agree. Lines up almost identical with my current situation as well. I really appreciate the brightness and anti reflective qualities of the Q90 in my room. It’s an added bonus being able to watch dark content in the middle of the day.

Not having to baby this tv for fear of burn in is also nice. Lucky for me that my C8 is in the bedroom and sees zero use during the day and very limited use overall.
I don't know, I never worried about burn in, never had it though, so ...

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I don't buy into that kind of thinking. I have never seen a TV that I would crown as "King". Not the Q90R, A9G, C9, Elite Kuro, nor any other display. Televisions are like tools, and the only thing that makes it the best is how well suited it is to the task at hand, full stop.
They are talking on paper, using meters. You are right though, every TV is best suited for something different.
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post #5652 of 6086 Old 08-15-2019, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Nillaz View Post
The 1 amp USB port is the one in the middle.

I have a Medialight Quad system. I don't want to get into it tonight because it's getting pretty late, but if you like I can hook it into the One Connect box to verify that it works as expected.
Are you using the Quad on your Q90R?

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post #5653 of 6086 Old 08-15-2019, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
Are you using the Quad on your Q90R?
I use it occasionally but it isn't hooked up to the One Connect.

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post #5654 of 6086 Old 08-15-2019, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Nillaz View Post
The 1 amp USB port is the one in the middle.


I have a Medialight Quad system. I don't want to get into it tonight because it's getting pretty late, but if you like I can hook it into the One Connect box to verify that it works as expected.
Yes pls, and confirm which port. Thank you.

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post #5655 of 6086 Old 08-15-2019, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Ted99 View Post
For those considering the Lumidoodle LED backlight, the longest version runs fine on the 0.5A socket.

Good to know. I have one to install, but I’m still trying to figure out a method that doesn’t require pulling the beast off the wall.


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post #5656 of 6086 Old 08-15-2019, 10:42 AM
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Yes pls, and confirm which port. Thank you.
No worries I'll check when I get home tonight.

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post #5657 of 6086 Old 08-15-2019, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
Yes pls, and confirm which port. Thank you.

OK the Medialight works through the 1 amp port, but the consistency is somewhat questionable.



By that I mean it turns on reliably at startup every time but how long it takes to power down the lights when you shut the TV off varies considerably. I power cycled the TV probably 2 dozen times and had the lights shut off in as little as 10 seconds, but more often than not it was somewhere between 30 seconds and a full minute.

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post #5658 of 6086 Old 08-15-2019, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Ted99 View Post
For those considering the Lumidoodle LED backlight, the longest version runs fine on the 0.5A socket.
Are you using it?
Which USB port?
Does it turn on instantly?
How long does it take to power off, once the tv is turned off.
Lots of questions, thank you.

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post #5659 of 6086 Old 08-16-2019, 12:55 AM
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I’m curious how many owners here use the TVs internal apps (Netflix, Prime, Hulu, YouTube, etc. to watch streaming content. Do most use the TVs Tizen system or do most here use an outboard streamer like a Roku or Apple TV 4K. Reason I ask is because of the statement Samsung made not too long ago that their TVs should use the antivirus built in to protect against malware.

Has this really been a problem and should I avoid connecting my soon to be TV via wi-fi or Ethernet?
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post #5660 of 6086 Old 08-16-2019, 02:15 AM
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Hi to all,
I have a 1080Ti and I'd like to ask you if someone has tried to connect a nvidia graphics card with a DP adapter in order to see if G-Sync works.

Thanks
M_C
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post #5661 of 6086 Old 08-16-2019, 08:15 AM
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Hi to all,
I have a 1080Ti and I'd like to ask you if someone has tried to connect a nvidia graphics card with a DP adapter in order to see if G-Sync works.

Thanks
M_C

It does not.

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post #5662 of 6086 Old 08-16-2019, 08:26 AM
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I’m curious how many owners here use the TVs internal apps (Netflix, Prime, Hulu, YouTube, etc. to watch streaming content. Do most use the TVs Tizen system or do most here use an outboard streamer like a Roku or Apple TV 4K. Reason I ask is because of the statement Samsung made not too long ago that their TVs should use the antivirus built in to protect against malware.

Has this really been a problem and should I avoid connecting my soon to be TV via wi-fi or Ethernet?

I use an Nvidia Shield, but mostly due to preference. I'm not exactly sure what Samsung was thinking when they made that statement but as far as I know Tizen isn't compromised.

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post #5663 of 6086 Old 08-16-2019, 09:33 AM
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It's to prevent someone from malwaring in some Dolby Vision and eARC support.
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post #5664 of 6086 Old 08-16-2019, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ohyeah32 View Post
I’m curious how many owners here use the TVs internal apps (Netflix, Prime, Hulu, YouTube, etc. to watch streaming content. Do most use the TVs Tizen system or do most here use an outboard streamer like a Roku or Apple TV 4K. Reason I ask is because of the statement Samsung made not too long ago that their TVs should use the antivirus built in to protect against malware.

Has this really been a problem and should I avoid connecting my soon to be TV via wi-fi or Ethernet?
I'm not concerned. I use the internal apps and the XBOX One X for Amazon Prime, Netflix, etc.
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post #5665 of 6086 Old 08-17-2019, 07:25 AM
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I use an Nvidia Shield, but mostly due to preference. I'm not exactly sure what Samsung was thinking when they made that statement but as far as I know Tizen isn't compromised.
Best stream box! It's what I use instead of the internal apps.

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I’m curious how many owners here use the TVs internal apps
The internal Netflix app has not been kind to me - as if the FALD won't engage properly. The black levels in many shows (Stranger Things S3 & The Umbrella Academy in particular) were very elevated and washed out the content. Not sure if it's fixed yet because I use the Shield now.
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post #5666 of 6086 Old 08-17-2019, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bjorktribe View Post
The internal Netflix app has not been kind to me - as if the FALD won't engage properly. The black levels in many shows (Stranger Things S3 & The Umbrella Academy in particular) were very elevated and washed out the content. Not sure if it's fixed yet because I use the Shield now.
Interesting. I don’t use the internal Netflix app, never have, as I stream Netflix from my ATV4K. I do stream Amazon Prime Video from the internal app though, to get HDR10+ support, and blacks are rock solid. I’ve actually compared directly to the Amazon Prime Video app on my ATV4K when I was doing some HDR10 vs HDR10+ comparisons.

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post #5667 of 6086 Old 08-17-2019, 09:29 AM
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Is anyone using bias lighting?
If so, what size tv, what usb port in the OCB and what brand lighting?
What is your take on if it improves the picture or letterbox bars appearing blacker.
Thank you.

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post #5668 of 6086 Old 08-17-2019, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
Are you using it?
Which USB port?
Does it turn on instantly?
How long does it take to power off, once the tv is turned off.
Lots of questions, thank you.
Yes
don't remember, too difficult to get at for look
almost
10-15 sec

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post #5669 of 6086 Old 08-17-2019, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
Is anyone using bias lighting?
If so, what size tv, what usb port in the OCB and what brand lighting?
What is your take on if it improves the picture or letterbox bars appearing blacker.
Thank you.
Yes, on both 82Q90 and a Sony XBR79 in another room.
The USB-powered lumidoodle is on one in a room where I don't need much "extra" light and a 36W 6500K flourescent light is on one in a room where I need general lighting for the room, but do not want any lights in front of the TV. The flourescent light is mounted to the VESA screw points on the back of the TV (the TV is on it's stand) and goes to a wall-switched outlet behind the TV. I need the room to be lighted, so I've gone to this setup which gives me a bias light with enough light to allow anything in the room to be done, except reading. The Lumidoodle is taped to the back of the TV and gives almost as much light as the 36W flourescent in a smaller room.
I find that the bias light reduces eye strain compared to the TV being in an unlighted room. Don't see any effect on picture or letterbox bars, except that I can now avoid having any lights that would shine on the TV screen, which would affect both the picture and bars.

In short, if the bias light allows you to turn off all other lights in the room, it's a big improvement. Otherwise, not so much.

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post #5670 of 6086 Old 08-17-2019, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Ted99 View Post
Yes, on both 82Q90 and a Sony XBR79 in another room.
The USB-powered lumidoodle is on one in a room where I don't need much "extra" light and a 36W 6500K flourescent light is on one in a room where I need general lighting for the room, but do not want any lights in front of the TV. The flourescent light is mounted to the VESA screw points on the back of the TV (the TV is on it's stand) and goes to a wall-switched outlet behind the TV. I need the room to be lighted, so I've gone to this setup which gives me a bias light with enough light to allow anything in the room to be done, except reading. The Lumidoodle is taped to the back of the TV and gives almost as much light as the 36W flourescent in a smaller room.
I find that the bias light reduces eye strain compared to the TV being in an unlighted room. Don't see any effect on picture or letterbox bars, except that I can now avoid having any lights that would shine on the TV screen, which would affect both the picture and bars.

In short, if the bias light allows you to turn off all other lights in the room, it's a big improvement. Otherwise, not so much.
Thanks Ted.
As I'm researching/learning about bias lighting, I've read light is behind the tv so no reflections from lights in front of the screen. And the light should be 6000-6500k. It's that Kalvin shade that is suppose to help improve color accuracy and help gray/black get blacker. Seems bias lighting helps you with no light reflection and eye strain, but no improvement with color or getting black...blacker. That's a shame, not improving on color/black.

7.2.4, AV7702mkII, MM8077, MC205, UDP-203, 82Q90R, Tivo Bolt, Richard Gray 400s, B&W Nautilus, Fathom F113, Harmony Elite
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