2019 Samsung Q90R Owners Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 198 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5911 of 7817 Old 09-08-2019, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimster View Post
So to be sure we’re understanding correctly, the Dolby Digital options are disabled under Settings>Sound>Expert Settings?
Ok I think I figured it out. My devices (Apple TV and PS4) were set to PCM output. With my old TV I had everything hooked up directly to the receiver and the receiver would decode it to highest level. But with my Samsung, I decided to use the One Connect box and ARC. I guess to get Dolby Digital pass through, you need to change the input settings to Dolby Digital instead of PCM.
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post #5912 of 7817 Old 09-08-2019, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimster View Post
I apologize if the link below isn't helpful. I won't be buying my Q90R until next May when we move into a new house, so I can't test these. But the end of this video seems to show a workaround for the TV Plus app ads. Apparently you can't get rid of the app, but if you lock it, it can't show content. I'm highly interested in whether that works. I love the Q90R picture, but if I have to put up with ads, it's probably a deal-breaker for me.
Well the new models will be out by then, who knows what you will want then
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post #5913 of 7817 Old 09-08-2019, 11:28 AM
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Question HDMI ARC to turn on AVR?

I don't know if this is an issue with a setting in my Samsung Q90R TV or on my Denon AVR-X8500 so I will post this question in both owner’s threads. I have my AVR connected to my Samsung Q90R via HDMI to the ARC input on the OCB for the TV and I have HDMI control and ARC turned on in my AVR settings. I would like my TV to also turn on the AVR when I hit the power on button on my Samsung remote but it won't do that. The TV remote will turn off the AVR when I hit the power off button however. Any suggestions on how to get the AVR to turn on when I turn the TV power on? I tried unplugging the power cords and the HDMI cable from both the AVR and the Q90R then connecting back up again but it still does the same thing. The TV remote won’t turn on my AVR but it will control it when I turn both on manually. Then the TV remote turns off the AVR when I power down the TV with the Q90R remote.

The reason this is important to me is that I'm trying to automate the process with Google Assistant voice control and I can get Google Assistant to turn on the TV but not the AVR currently.

Samsung Q90R 82" TV, Denon AVR-X8500H, Panasonic Blu-ray DP-UB820, Roku 4K Ultra, Klipsch RP-280F L/R, Klipsch RP-450CA center, Klipsch RP-600M L&R surround, Klipsch RP-502S L&R rear surround, Klipsch RP-500SA Atmos front heights, Axiom QS8's as rear height speakers, two SVS PB-16 Ultra subs. Currently set up as a 7.2.4 sound system.
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post #5914 of 7817 Old 09-08-2019, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by PhilH930 View Post
Quick question regarding Q90R, Xbox One X and Receiver. If I understand correctly, to get freesync I must connect the Xbox to the One Connect box, and use ARC HDMI for sound pass through. Is this correct, and will that pass through Atmos?

Yes that is correct. But you will not get Atmos.

Unless they implement eARC you will have to set the Xbox to bitstream DD and be limited to 5.1.
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post #5915 of 7817 Old 09-08-2019, 12:33 PM
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Yes that is correct. But you will not get Atmos.

Unless they implement eARC you will have to set the Xbox to bitstream DD and be limited to 5.1.
In theory you should get (compressed) Atmos through Dolby Digital Plus - at least, I do with the in-built apps, and a SHIELD TV connected through HDMI using ARC (not eARC).

Problem with the Xbox is that you can't select the DD+ (Atmos) output in the Xbox sound settings without the connected TV advertising that it's DD+ capable. Unfortunately for us, the TV won't let you select the DD+ option in the sound settings either unless the connected device (Xbox) advertises that it can output DD+. That means we end up with a catch 22 situation where neither device will let you select DD+ as it thinks that the other device doesn't support it.

I don't know whether it's the Xbox or the Samsung at fault here, or both, but I'm leaning towards it being the Xbox's fault as my SHIELD and the in-built apps both work fine and pass Atmos to my receiver. I filed a bug report on the Xbox dashboard but I don't know if it'll be much use (I don't know how responsive Microsoft usually are to these sorts of things?).
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post #5916 of 7817 Old 09-08-2019, 12:49 PM
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2019 Samsung Q90R Owners Thread (No Price Talk)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shodney View Post
In theory you should get (compressed) Atmos through Dolby Digital Plus - at least, I do with the in-built apps, and a SHIELD TV connected through HDMI using ARC (not eARC).



Problem with the Xbox is that you can't select the DD+ (Atmos) output in the Xbox sound settings without the connected TV advertising that it's DD+ capable. Unfortunately for us, the TV won't let you select the DD+ option in the sound settings either unless the connected device (Xbox) advertises that it can output DD+. That means we end up with a catch 22 situation where neither device will let you select DD+ as it thinks that the other device doesn't support it.



I don't know whether it's the Xbox or the Samsung at fault here, or both, but I'm leaning towards it being the Xbox's fault as my SHIELD and the in-built apps both work fine and pass Atmos to my receiver. I filed a bug report on the Xbox dashboard but I don't know if it'll be much use (I don't know how responsive Microsoft usually are to these sorts of things?).


The Xbox sends Atmos via PCM.

It (actually nothing) has the ability to decode Atmos, add in system sounds and re encode into DD+ on the fly. That isn’t possible...

Simply passing a DD+ bitstream is easy for the Shield or a TV to do.... but when you are decoding Atmos internally (Apple TV and Xbox) to add interactive capabilities (Siri and system sound for example) and/or up mixing (Xbox on non native titles for example) you only have one choice... decode native Atmos internally, add in sounds/upmix and pass as Atmos PCM MAT.

So it wont work unless Samsung adds eARC... it’s not an Xbox issue. There is nothing Microsoft can do.
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post #5917 of 7817 Old 09-08-2019, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by FilmMixer View Post
Yes that is correct. But you will not get Atmos.

Unless they implement eARC you will have to set the Xbox to bitstream DD and be limited to 5.1.
Thank you. Here's another one hoping for that eARC firmware. For now I'll stick to the receiver as my speakers/setup outweigh freesync benefits.
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post #5918 of 7817 Old 09-09-2019, 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Robbie Racer View Post
I don't know if this is an issue with a setting in my Samsung Q90R TV or on my Denon AVR-X8500 so I will post this question in both owner’s threads. I have my AVR connected to my Samsung Q90R via HDMI to the ARC input on the OCB for the TV and I have HDMI control and ARC turned on in my AVR settings. I would like my TV to also turn on the AVR when I hit the power on button on my Samsung remote but it won't do that. The TV remote will turn off the AVR when I hit the power off button however. Any suggestions on how to get the AVR to turn on when I turn the TV power on? I tried unplugging the power cords and the HDMI cable from both the AVR and the Q90R then connecting back up again but it still does the same thing. The TV remote won’t turn on my AVR but it will control it when I turn both on manually. Then the TV remote turns off the AVR when I power down the TV with the Q90R remote.

The reason this is important to me is that I'm trying to automate the process with Google Assistant voice control and I can get Google Assistant to turn on the TV but not the AVR currently.
Not sure if you figured it out yet. I did have this issue when I first set things up...can't remember exactly how I resolved. I believe I re-ran the universal remote setup under sources or toggled CEC, etc.

I will confirm this should work. I've got an Onkyo RZ-830
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post #5919 of 7817 Old 09-09-2019, 04:55 AM
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Hello everyone!
I'm not sure this is the right place to ask the questions but ill give it a go.

My name is Johan and i live in Norway. I just uppgraded my UE55ES8005U to a 55q90r and are super pleased... but there are a few things:

1. How do i know if look on SDR or on HDR content.
This has me confused because i have been searching the internet for some nice setting to apply and they all talk about SDR and HDR as if they where options you could switch?

2. How do i enable PIP?
Dont know but this thing is never not grayed out so i dont know when it is possible to use pip.

3. How do i change gamma when i game mode? : I play alot of playstation 4 pro.. (mostly Battlefield 5, apex legends and such.)

Whats annoys me is that on my old tv when i turn on ps4, the game mode goes on and i can tweek settings for best preferences for me... it does the same on the new one, but the picture when gaming in game mode is to dark for me. i cant see what hides in corner etc. But i cant change gamma. its on 2.2 and i can't do anything.

is there any "new-TV" guids for loosers like me? or can anyone help me figure this things out ?

But hey.. the q90r with "no-gap" is a delight

Regards
Johan
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post #5920 of 7817 Old 09-09-2019, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Johan Östman View Post
1. How do i know if look on SDR or on HDR content.

3. How do i change gamma when i game mode?
Read this post about HDR.

What resolution and color format/depth are you sending when you can't change gamma? Sounds odd. Maybe the 55" has reduced functionality? Can you change gamma when you're not in Game mode?
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post #5921 of 7817 Old 09-09-2019, 08:46 AM
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Hi, I can answer point 1:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johan Östman View Post
Hello everyone!
...
1. How do i know if look on SDR or on HDR content.
This has me confused because i have been searching the internet for some nice setting to apply and they all talk about SDR and HDR as if they where options you could switch?
There is one trick that works for both internal and external sources:
*The TV automatically use the "Expert" settings that is set for SDR and it has a separate memory for HDR. I believe the settings are different already from the default settings so opening the picture settings menu/Expert settings will give the answer (if you remember one of the parameters that differ).
*The more straight forward indication only works for external sources (at least what I have found). Either select the input again or use the Info command (but that is only practical if you have a remote with an Info button, but it is hidden under the 123 button on the reduced remote). The info banner that comes up informs you about "HD"/"UHD" and when detected also "HDR".
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post #5922 of 7817 Old 09-09-2019, 10:07 AM
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Samsung Warranty Repair Saga!!!

I had never posted before but think people should know this. I hope I am an outlier and this is not how Samsung does business. I purchased my Q90 online on 6/13/19 and it arrived 6/23/19. All went well and I was very impressed with the set. Then it started, on 6/28/19 I turned on my set to fined all the HDMI ports not working. I did all the usual diagnostic processes and could not resolve the issue. Went on line and spent several hours and Samsung came to the conclusion that the One Connect Box needed to be replaced. But there was no repair technician in my area ( I live in Bradenton Florida and am surrounded by 800,000 plus people). The Samsung chat person asked me to use the telephone method to contact Samsung. After another two plus hours on the phone, Samsung said the One Connect Box needed to be replaced and the closest repair facility was in Tampa 60 miles away. So we setup an appointment for 8/5/19 because they only came down to the Sarasota/Bradenton area once a week. I contacted the repair facility directly and told what the problem was and requested that they bring the One Connect Box when they came. The tech arrived without the part but agreed that was the problem, but they did not carry the part locally and the Samsung warehouse had none in stock. They said they would be back when they had the part.16 days later on 8/ 21/19 the tech returned with a new One Connect Box only to fined that it is not the problem. They then suggested that it could be either the cable or the circuit board in the display. However, they did not carry the parts and Samsung's warehouse was out of stock! At this point Samsung customer service offered to exchange the set if I sent them proof of sale and other details. I provided them to Samsung that day. It took 6 business days to process the request 7 business days to approve the request and 5 business to order one from the warehouse!!! I am going on 44 days without my television and I am being told by Samsung that it will be another 8 to 10 business days before delivery. I hope the replacement works.
Forma technical point it appears that he software needs verification from the display for the anti-piracy software in the HDMI protocol to work because the display is separated from the processing in the One Connect box. my internet apps work fine I just can not use any HDMI devices for video. Has anyone experienced this kind of delay with Samsung?
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post #5923 of 7817 Old 09-09-2019, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by yatesd View Post
Not sure if you figured it out yet. I did have this issue when I first set things up...can't remember exactly how I resolved. I believe I re-ran the universal remote setup under sources or toggled CEC, etc.

I will confirm this should work. I've got an Onkyo RZ-830

I still haven't figured it out yet. I'm not even sure it's possible for the Q90R to turn on a AVR through HDMI/ARC. I haven't been able to find the "universal remote setup under sources". Can you tell me where to find that setting?

Samsung Q90R 82" TV, Denon AVR-X8500H, Panasonic Blu-ray DP-UB820, Roku 4K Ultra, Klipsch RP-280F L/R, Klipsch RP-450CA center, Klipsch RP-600M L&R surround, Klipsch RP-502S L&R rear surround, Klipsch RP-500SA Atmos front heights, Axiom QS8's as rear height speakers, two SVS PB-16 Ultra subs. Currently set up as a 7.2.4 sound system.
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post #5924 of 7817 Old 09-09-2019, 12:56 PM
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Hi all, my Q90 is arriving soon and I've got a few questions about PC use.

I'll be connecting my Denon X3500 AVR to ARC HDMI 3 port of the OCB. The AVR has a PC source (Nvidia 1080) I use for gaming and streaming. Am I correct in saying that once I enable HDR in Windows I should leave color settings in the Nvidia control panel to 'Use default color settings' and not manually specify the output color format (e.g RGB or YCbCr)? I'm assuming then HDR content switches automatically to YCbCr 12bit 4:2:2, but what happens to non HDR content, can you ensure it stays at RGB or 4:4:4? Do I want to enable PC mode by renaming the input? There's a comment earlier mentioning a drop off in peak brightness in PC mode.

Also, I'm assuming I'd be better off watching streaming video with the built-in apps and use ARC instead of using the Window 10 Netflix app on the PC?

Does BFI destroy HDR performance? How do I ensure BFI isn't using interpolation and introducing lag (60Hz)?

Thanks in advance

Last edited by SeeNoWeevil; 09-09-2019 at 01:15 PM.
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post #5925 of 7817 Old 09-09-2019, 01:54 PM
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I was originally considering an OLED like the C9 as I figured "burn-in" was over-exaggerated but I've found multiple examples where the screens show damage after a few thousand hours (sub 10k hours). I watch a lot of content with subtitles and finding this was the last straw for me:

https://www.rtings.com/tv/discussion...-and-subtitles

I guess that means I'll be getting a Q90R soon (although I wish it had Dolby Vision like every other brand at this point). It's pretty much the only choice for a screen size larger than 80" that has good contrast/FALD and a wide viewing angle.
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post #5926 of 7817 Old 09-09-2019, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ray0414 View Post
What brand switcher do you have? I also use a switcher which goes into my Oppos input and then directly to the TV. Worked fine on my Q9FN but had to remove it on the Q90r cause it either couldn't find the source or or it kept saying the device had a power problem.
The switcher I have that won’t work with the OCB is a J Tech Digital. Like you say, the Q90 reports there is no source. Anyone find a switcher that works?
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post #5927 of 7817 Old 09-09-2019, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by John Dion View Post
I had never posted before but think people should know this. I hope I am an outlier and this is not how Samsung does business. I purchased my Q90 online on 6/13/19 and it arrived 6/23/19. All went well and I was very impressed with the set. Then it started, on 6/28/19 I turned on my set to fined all the HDMI ports not working. I did all the usual diagnostic processes and could not resolve the issue. Went on line and spent several hours and Samsung came to the conclusion that the One Connect Box needed to be replaced. But there was no repair technician in my area ( I live in Bradenton Florida and am surrounded by 800,000 plus people). The Samsung chat person asked me to use the telephone method to contact Samsung. After another two plus hours on the phone, Samsung said the One Connect Box needed to be replaced and the closest repair facility was in Tampa 60 miles away. So we setup an appointment for 8/5/19 because they only came down to the Sarasota/Bradenton area once a week. I contacted the repair facility directly and told what the problem was and requested that they bring the One Connect Box when they came. The tech arrived without the part but agreed that was the problem, but they did not carry the part locally and the Samsung warehouse had none in stock. They said they would be back when they had the part.16 days later on 8/ 21/19 the tech returned with a new One Connect Box only to fined that it is not the problem. They then suggested that it could be either the cable or the circuit board in the display. However, they did not carry the parts and Samsung's warehouse was out of stock! At this point Samsung customer service offered to exchange the set if I sent them proof of sale and other details. I provided them to Samsung that day. It took 6 business days to process the request 7 business days to approve the request and 5 business to order one from the warehouse!!! I am going on 44 days without my television and I am being told by Samsung that it will be another 8 to 10 business days before delivery. I hope the replacement works.
Forma technical point it appears that he software needs verification from the display for the anti-piracy software in the HDMI protocol to work because the display is separated from the processing in the One Connect box. my internet apps work fine I just can not use any HDMI devices for video. Has anyone experienced this kind of delay with Samsung?
Samsung is good at making TVs but bad at customer service. Best thing to do next time is to buy the TV from a reputable retailer that will exchange the TV for you without having to deal with Samsung. I would never accept a repair if I wasn't even 1 month into my purchase, I would demand a full replacement.
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post #5928 of 7817 Old 09-09-2019, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Robbie Racer View Post
I still haven't figured it out yet. I'm not even sure it's possible for the Q90R to turn on a AVR through HDMI/ARC. I haven't been able to find the "universal remote setup under sources". Can you tell me where to find that setting?
Select "home"-> "source"-> scroll all the way to right->"universal remote"
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post #5929 of 7817 Old 09-09-2019, 04:17 PM
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Samsung is good at making TVs but bad at customer service. Best thing to do next time is to buy the TV from a reputable retailer that will exchange the TV for you without having to deal with Samsung. I would never accept a repair if I wasn't even 1 month into my purchase, I would demand a full replacement.
Good advice on insisting on a replacement. As far as where to buy, sometimes it comes down to a cost/benefit tradeoff. Like the OP, I bought direct from Samsung. Ordered the 82" Q90R TV and the HW-Q90R soundbar using their EPP plan, and it saved me saved me a good chunk of money. But with those savings I am knowingly taking on the risk that if there are issues with the TV, it could take weeks to resolve. For me, the savings is worth it. Delivery is this week. Crossing my fingers that everything works right out of the box.

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post #5930 of 7817 Old 09-09-2019, 04:29 PM
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Good advice on insisting on a replacement. As far as where to buy, sometimes it comes down to a cost/benefit tradeoff. Like the OP, I bought direct from Samsung. Ordered the 82" Q90R TV and the HW-Q90R soundbar using their EPP plan, and it saved me saved me a good chunk of change. But with those savings I am knowingly taking on the risk that if there are issues with the TV, it could take weeks to resolve. For me, the savings is worth it. Delivery is this week. Crossing my fingers that everything works right out of the box.
I know that Samsung is known for poor service. But 50 plus days is just plainly frustrating. I want people to know that it is Samsung's poor management not their people that are the problem and charging a premium for a product that you do not support is something I would have like to know before purchasing. I have purchased many high ticket items online before and a few have required warranty replacement I have never had this kind of hap hazard process that requires 5 to 7 business days to each step in the process.
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post #5931 of 7817 Old 09-09-2019, 05:29 PM
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Select "home"-> "source"-> scroll all the way to right->"universal remote"
Thanks, I found it now and set up my Denon as Home Theater and it went through the set up procedure correctly where the TV remote will turn on the Denon during the set up test. But, when I exit out of that, the TV remote turns off the Denon (as in the past) but it won't turn on the Denon AVR when I power up the TV.

Samsung Q90R 82" TV, Denon AVR-X8500H, Panasonic Blu-ray DP-UB820, Roku 4K Ultra, Klipsch RP-280F L/R, Klipsch RP-450CA center, Klipsch RP-600M L&R surround, Klipsch RP-502S L&R rear surround, Klipsch RP-500SA Atmos front heights, Axiom QS8's as rear height speakers, two SVS PB-16 Ultra subs. Currently set up as a 7.2.4 sound system.
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post #5932 of 7817 Old 09-09-2019, 11:40 PM
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Am I correct in saying that once I enable HDR in Windows I should leave color settings in the Nvidia control panel to 'Use default color settings' and not manually specify the output color format (e.g RGB or YCbCr)? I'm assuming then HDR content switches automatically to YCbCr 12bit 4:2:2, but what happens to non HDR content, can you ensure it stays at RGB or 4:4:4? Do I want to enable PC mode by renaming the input?
I tend to not trust Windows defaults, so I use the Nvidia control panel to set things. I want the best text possible, so for SDR I enable PC mode, configure for 8-bit RGB Full, set HDMI Black Level to Normal in the Q90R, and disable HDR in Windows. I want the brightest HDR possible, so for HDR I disable PC mode, configure for YCbCr, and enable HDR in Windows. Whether it's better to use 10-bit or 12-bit YCbCr for HDR, I don't know. HDR10 is 10-bit, so I figure that's the most likely to work right.
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post #5933 of 7817 Old 09-10-2019, 08:41 AM
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I come back to the thread here occasionally to check on firmware updates and random hints, but the funny thing is that now that I am "living with it", the display continues to get better and better as I drift away from constant tinkering and the OLED comparison videos to just watching movies and sports. I have better content by improving streaming bandwidth with a better wifi system while upgrading my Roku to 4K HDR (IMHO better than the Samsung apps) and running everything through the AVR that is current spec pass-through compatible, etc.

When evaluating what to buy, don't discount the anti-glare layer as a primary benefit of this display. I don't have the possibility of a dedicated theater room, so negating the windows in my living room with great viewing angles for when people join for sports has been a fantastic value. Add in the high peak brightness, solid black levels, black letterboxes and 1080 up-sampling, this is an easy investment to live with...
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post #5934 of 7817 Old 09-10-2019, 10:06 AM
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What is a good articulated wall mount over the fireplace for this 65" TV? I have not mounted over fireplace and not sure which one is suitable for it? Any help would greatly appreciated.
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post #5935 of 7817 Old 09-10-2019, 01:26 PM
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I am one of those still on v1312 FW on the Q90. Because the Samsng site never listed an update file for the Q90 I have not updated beyond 1312 via USB. The TV still says 'no update available'. (As of a few days ago, FW for the q80's and down was available on the SSung download site, but not the Q90.)



Today, the update page just comes up with a header and no selection icons for tv's or anything else. Clicking 'support' and 'update' gets a page with no active links to any of the the actual update files for any Samsung product.


Could be a new substantial update limitation by Sansung, eliminating FW updates except for having the device on line. Or could be just broken pages being updated... Or something could be very wrong behind the scenes at SS firmware land.


We'll see how it rolls out.. hopefully just broken web pages.
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post #5936 of 7817 Old 09-10-2019, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenUHD View Post
I am one of those still on v1312 FW on the Q90. Because the Samsng site never listed an update file for the Q90 I have not updated beyond 1312 via USB. The TV still says 'no update available'. (As of a few days ago, FW for the q80's and down was available on the SSung download site, but not the Q90.)



Today, the update page just comes up with a header and no selection icons for tv's or anything else. Clicking 'support' and 'update' gets a page with no active links to any of the the actual update files for any Samsung product.


Could be a new substantial update limitation by Sansung, eliminating FW updates except for having the device on line. Or could be just broken pages being updated... Or something could be very wrong behind the scenes at SS firmware land.


We'll see how it rolls out.. hopefully just broken web pages.


I’ve had all kinds of issues with there site and there chat help is anything but. I noted some JavaScript errors showing up in the web console so it isn’t just you. And they don’t seem to care.


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post #5937 of 7817 Old 09-11-2019, 12:06 AM
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A question to those who actually own the TV.

If you have a media device that supports Dolby Vision (like the Apple TV 4K), that sends a signal through an A/V Receiver that supports Dolby Vision, into a TV (like the Samsung Q90R) that doesn't support Dolby Vision, what happens? Does the TV downgrade the signal into HDR10, or does it actually play Dolby Vision (even though the Q90R doesn't support it)?

I'm asking because I found this post on the Samsung website:

https://us.community.samsung.com/t5/...p/531145#M1634

Quote:
If you are sending the Dolby Vision content to a receiver that supports Dolby Vision and then to connecting the receiver to the television, you will get Dolby Vision. If you are sending Dolby Vision content to the television and the television is sending the content to a sound system, it will be filtered out since the television will only send out content that it is able to read.
They make it sound like you can watch Dolby Vision on the Q90R as long as the rest of the hardware supports Dolby Vision (and the Q90R is the last device in the chain)?
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post #5938 of 7817 Old 09-11-2019, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Maconi View Post
A question to those who actually own the TV.



If you have a media device that supports Dolby Vision (like the Apple TV 4K), that sends a signal through an A/V Receiver that supports Dolby Vision, into a TV (like the Samsung Q90R) that doesn't support Dolby Vision, what happens? Does the TV downgrade the signal into HDR10, or does it actually play Dolby Vision (even though the Q90R doesn't support it)?



I'm asking because I found this post on the Samsung website:



https://us.community.samsung.com/t5/...p/531145#M1634







They make it sound like you can watch Dolby Vision on the Q90R as long as the rest of the hardware supports Dolby Vision (and the Q90R is the last device in the chain)?

You will get HDR 10... no Dolby Vision.
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post #5939 of 7817 Old 09-11-2019, 09:23 AM
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Am I correct in saying that once I enable HDR in Windows I should leave color settings in the Nvidia control panel to 'Use default color settings' and not manually specify the output color format (e.g RGB or YCbCr)? I'm assuming then HDR content switches automatically to YCbCr 12bit 4:2:2, but what happens to non HDR content, can you ensure it stays at RGB or 4:4:4? Do I want to enable PC mode by renaming the input? There's a comment earlier mentioning a drop off in peak brightness in PC mode.
When you enable HDR in Windows, the TV will stay in HDR mode all the time, regardless of content displayed. For SDR content, Windows sort of emulates SDR within HDR, and has its own SDR brightness slider as part of that. On my system, if I 'Use default color settings' with HDR enabled, Windows uses 8-bit RGB (for both SDR and HDR content) , and uses Dithering as a substitute for 10-bit color depth. If you go that route, and don't want to change settings based on content, then you choose between enabling PC mode to get full 4:4:4 chroma, or not enabling PC mode to get max HDR brightness.
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post #5940 of 7817 Old 09-11-2019, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by thoth View Post
When you enable HDR in Windows, the TV will stay in HDR mode all the time, regardless of content displayed. For SDR content, Windows sort of emulates SDR within HDR, and has its own SDR brightness slider as part of that. On my system, if I 'Use default color settings' with HDR enabled, Windows uses 8-bit RGB (for both SDR and HDR content) , and uses Dithering as a substitute for 10-bit color depth. If you go that route, and don't want to change settings based on content, then you choose between enabling PC mode to get full 4:4:4 chroma, or not enabling PC mode to get max HDR brightness.
<offtopic>Hopefully the next Xbox will come close enough to PC graphics that the headaches and confusion trying to get PC's to do proper Atmos audio and HDR will no longer be a problem <backontopic>
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