2019 Samsung Q90R Owners Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 204 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6091 of 7499 Old 09-21-2019, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeNoWeevil View Post
https://youtu.be/ypgziGnbTNY

Here's an example of the inverse ghosting on the Q90R with 60fps HDR content in game mode, during dark scenes. Notice the edge of the pillar when panning to the right. I've filed a ticket with Samsung who requested the video but I fully expect them to tell me this is as expected. I hope they tune this in further updates (it's not there outside of game mode).

Which pillar? There's like 10 of them in that shot.



I'm not trying to be a wiseass. Cellphone videos are hard to work with and perhaps I'm just not sensitive to this, but I'm trying to see what's going on so I can try to recreate it when I get home tomorrow.

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post #6092 of 7499 Old 09-21-2019, 01:03 PM
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Xbox One X, Samsung Q90R TV, Samsung Q90 Soundbar

I have been trying to get 4K and HDR working and have Dolby Atmos.

So far if I connect from the Xbox to HDMI 1 on the Soundbar and HDMI Arc out to the TV HDMI 3(Arc) I lose HDR from most Xbox apps.

Please help.

I have replaced 18Gb HDMI cables with monoprice HDMI 8k cables with no change.

If I connect to the TV first and then HDMI Arc out the soundbar I lose Dolby Atmos.
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post #6093 of 7499 Old 09-21-2019, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Nillaz View Post
Which pillar? There's like 10 of them in that shot.



I'm not trying to be a wiseass. Cellphone videos are hard to work with and perhaps I'm just not sensitive to this, but I'm trying to see what's going on so I can try to recreate it when I get home tomorrow.
Annoyingly, youtube still hasn't processed the video beyond 480p. It's the central pillar, easier to see at half speed. This was from Shadow of the Colossus, but it's quite apparent in Detroit as well (there's a demo on the store) in the first room with the white walls against the dark.
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post #6094 of 7499 Old 09-21-2019, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeNoWeevil View Post
https://youtu.be/ypgziGnbTNY

Here's an example of the inverse ghosting on the Q90R with 60fps HDR content in game mode, during dark scenes. Notice the edge of the pillar when panning to the right. I've filed a ticket with Samsung who requested the video but I fully expect them to tell me this is as expected. I hope they tune this in further updates (it's not there outside of game mode).
Any chance you have game motion plus enabled? I feel like I've experienced something similar and that was the culprit. It caused a lot of blurring.
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post #6095 of 7499 Old 09-21-2019, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scipio Magnus View Post
I have been trying to get 4K and HDR working and have Dolby Atmos.

So far if I connect from the Xbox to HDMI 1 on the Soundbar and HDMI Arc out to the TV HDMI 3(Arc) I lose HDR from most Xbox apps.

Please help.

I have replaced 18Gb HDMI cables with monoprice HDMI 8k cables with no change.

If I connect to the TV first and then HDMI Arc out the soundbar I lose Dolby Atmos.
Hi,

What would 100% solve your issue is an HDfury "Integral 2" or higher: its splitter mode - when placed at the Xbox output - will:

1) send untouched or user modified (up/downscaled, forced/stripped HDR, etc.) picture to your display via the bottom HDMI output.

2) send untouched audio to any sound system with in HDMI input (conversion to HDCP 1.4 & video downscale for old gear compatibility) via the top HDMI output.

There's a lot more customisation the HDfury products can do, check out their threads under the "Video processors" section of this forum.

Regards,

W.
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post #6096 of 7499 Old 09-22-2019, 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by bjorktribe View Post
Any chance you have game motion plus enabled? I feel like I've experienced something similar and that was the culprit. It caused a lot of blurring.
No, it was off in that vid.

The issue is most simply replicated with a PC connected to the Q90, HDR turned on in Windows (driver set to YCbCr422 at 10bpc), game mode on and watch a test pattern like

The issue only occurs in HDR with game mode, everything else is fine. Turning LED Clear Motion on makes it easier to see.

Last edited by SeeNoWeevil; 09-22-2019 at 06:29 AM.
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post #6097 of 7499 Old 09-22-2019, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scipio Magnus View Post
So far if I connect from the Xbox to HDMI 1 on the Soundbar and HDMI Arc out to the TV HDMI 3(Arc) I lose HDR from most Xbox apps.
You might try asking in this HW-Q90R thread.
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post #6098 of 7499 Old 09-22-2019, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeNoWeevil View Post
No, it was off in that vid.

The issue is most simply replicated with a PC connected to the Q90, HDR turned on in Windows (driver set to YCbCr422 at 10bpc), game mode on and watch a test pattern like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vigX3H7WX5Q

The issue only occurs in HDR with game mode, everything else is fine. Turning LED Clear Motion on makes it easier to see.

It just so happens that I have my VR PC hooked up to the Q90 with exactly those output settings already enabled so this was easy to test. And on my 82" I can see what I think you are talking about using the moving squares in this video, but only if I enable Clear Motion. I'm not gonna fire up my PS4 right now but I assume that I would see the same. I can also see it outside of game mode if I enable Clear Motion in the regular picture settings which leads me to believe that it's due to the low flicker rate. I guess I've never noticed this before because I keep the motion processing settings turned completely off. Clear Motion in Game Mode drops the flicker to 60Hz and that is just far too low for me.


If you are seeing this even with Clear Motion turned off I guess your eyes are somewhat more sensitive than mine. That sucks, I hope they can find a solution for you.

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post #6099 of 7499 Old 09-22-2019, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walky View Post
Hi,

What would 100% solve your issue is an HDfury "Integral 2" or higher: its splitter mode - when placed at the Xbox output - will:

1) send untouched or user modified (up/downscaled, forced/stripped HDR, etc.) picture to your display via the bottom HDMI output.

2) send untouched audio to any sound system with in HDMI input (conversion to HDCP 1.4 & video downscale for old gear compatibility) via the top HDMI output.

There's a lot more customisation the HDfury products can do, check out their threads under the "Video processors" section of this forum.

Regards,

W.

I love my HDFury devices, they are flexible machines that solve so many issues. My only complaint is that they don't have ALLM compatibility.

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post #6100 of 7499 Old 09-22-2019, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Walky View Post
Hi,

What would 100% solve your issue is an HDfury "Integral 2" or higher: its splitter mode - when placed at the Xbox output - will:

1) send untouched or user modified (up/downscaled, forced/stripped HDR, etc.) picture to your display via the bottom HDMI output.

2) send untouched audio to any sound system with in HDMI input (conversion to HDCP 1.4 & video downscale for old gear compatibility) via the top HDMI output.

There's a lot more customisation the HDfury products can do, check out their threads under the "Video processors" section of this forum.

Regards,

W.
Today I tried a cheap Rocketfish 4k HDMI splitter that claims hdcp 2.2 and HDR compliance and it worked for the ATMOS and some things on the tv but the minute I tried using Netflix all I get is a Black screen.

Will the HDFury over come this and any idea what is causing it in the first place?

I would hope that Samsung would have the Soundbar and tv on the same copy protection scheme.
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post #6101 of 7499 Old 09-22-2019, 02:36 PM
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post #6102 of 7499 Old 09-22-2019, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scipio Magnus View Post
Today I tried a cheap Rocketfish 4k HDMI splitter that claims hdcp 2.2 and HDR compliance and it worked for the ATMOS and some things on the tv but the minute I tried using Netflix all I get is a Black screen.

Will the HDFury over come this and any idea what is causing it in the first place?

I would hope that Samsung would have the Soundbar and tv on the same copy protection scheme.
Hi Scipio Magnus,

Unless someone around here has the same gear as you and uses Netflix, the best you can do is post your question on the Integral 2 thread.

Give the exact description of your problem as well as a link to the manual of your gear and HDfury will check the specifications to give you an expert reply.

For example, if your sound bar is not HDCP 2.2 and you try to play Netflix UHD through it, it won't work although the splitter is HDCP 2.2. You need a splitter which will re-encrypt to HDCP 1.4, which HDfury gear does.

Regards,

W.

PS: I mention the Integral 2, but maybe their Linker can also accomplish what you need... take a look at their stuff and you might end up getting higher-end stuff with ambient lighting (like Philips Ambilight) for example!

Last edited by Walky; 09-22-2019 at 03:09 PM.
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post #6103 of 7499 Old 09-23-2019, 08:00 AM
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Lol not sure I'll ask my bro, but will a receipt showing a hefty price tag do?
No that does not necessarily mean anything

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scipio Magnus View Post
Today I tried a cheap Rocketfish 4k HDMI splitter that claims hdcp 2.2 and HDR compliance and it worked for the ATMOS and some things on the tv but the minute I tried using Netflix all I get is a Black screen.

Will the HDFury over come this and any idea what is causing it in the first place?

I would hope that Samsung would have the Soundbar and tv on the same copy protection scheme.
Not all HDMI splitters work well, some do and some don't.
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post #6104 of 7499 Old 09-23-2019, 10:01 AM
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I had never posted before but think people should know this. I hope I am an outlier and this is not how Samsung does business. I purchased my Q90 online on 6/13/19 and it arrived 6/23/19. All went well and I was very impressed with the set. Then it started, on 6/28/19 I turned on my set to fined all the HDMI ports not working. I did all the usual diagnostic processes and could not resolve the issue. Went on line and spent several hours and Samsung came to the conclusion that the One Connect Box needed to be replaced. But there was no repair technician in my area ( I live in Bradenton Florida and am surrounded by 800,000 plus people). The Samsung chat person asked me to use the telephone method to contact Samsung. After another two plus hours on the phone, Samsung said the One Connect Box needed to be replaced and the closest repair facility was in Tampa 60 miles away. So we setup an appointment for 8/5/19 because they only came down to the Sarasota/Bradenton area once a week. I contacted the repair facility directly and told what the problem was and requested that they bring the One Connect Box when they came. The tech arrived without the part but agreed that was the problem, but they did not carry the part locally and the Samsung warehouse had none in stock. They said they would be back when they had the part.16 days later on 8/ 21/19 the tech returned with a new One Connect Box only to fined that it is not the problem. They then suggested that it could be either the cable or the circuit board in the display. However, they did not carry the parts and Samsung's warehouse was out of stock! At this point Samsung customer service offered to exchange the set if I sent them proof of sale and other details. I provided them to Samsung that day. It took 6 business days to process the request 7 business days to approve the request and 5 business to order one from the warehouse!!! I am going on 44 days without my television and I am being told by Samsung that it will be another 8 to 10 business days before delivery. I hope the replacement works.
Forma technical point it appears that he software needs verification from the display for the anti-piracy software in the HDMI protocol to work because the display is separated from the processing in the One Connect box. my internet apps work fine I just can not use any HDMI devices for video. Has anyone experienced this kind of delay with Samsung?
Here is an update to my replacement saga. It is another 14 days and Samsung marked the ticket as completed and I still have not received my exchange !!! They stated that they shipped the unit by UPS but the tracking number is not one for UPS or ant of the other carriers that they use. They escalated the ticket and some one was suppose to contact me in 3 to 5 business days but Samsung just cancelled the ticket without finding out where the unit was or contacting me!! So today a supervisor said they escalated the issue to "Customer Relations" the most senior level of customer service in Samsung and I can expect a call within 48 hours.
What is the chances that they are going to find my exchange set in their system? Again my set broke on July 28th, 30 days and visits later Samsung offers to exchange my set because it has been too long.Now 18 days later they finally allocate a unit and ship it out and cancel the ticket. Another 13 days later they can not find the unit but have closed all the tickets referencing the process and decide it time to escalate the issue to a higher level!!!! I have now been 63 dayswithout my television. Beware of buying Samsung great TV but that not much consolation when it breaks. I do not blame the online seller this is Samsung and no one else but, online sellers have got to realize this is hurting your business badly.
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post #6105 of 7499 Old 09-23-2019, 11:36 AM
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I'm having my 82" Q90 delivered in a few days and I already have the no-gap wall at home (in a box).
The delivery guys will unbox and test the unit, so I assume they'll put it on the stand.
Need some advice here from those of you who went through this:
  • Is it easy to remove the stand from the unit so I can wall mount it later that day? Can I do it while the unit is standing (and somebody holding it)?
  • How many people do I need to help me hang this thing? I've hung 65" by myself, but 82" is a bit too awkward for me to grab solo

Last edited by index; 09-23-2019 at 11:39 AM.
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post #6106 of 7499 Old 09-23-2019, 01:45 PM
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I'm having my 82" Q90 delivered in a few days and I already have the no-gap wall at home (in a box).

The delivery guys will unbox and test the unit, so I assume they'll put it on the stand.

Need some advice here from those of you who went through this:
  • Is it easy to remove the stand from the unit so I can wall mount it later that day? Can I do it while the unit is standing (and somebody holding it)?
  • How many people do I need to help me hang this thing? I've hung 65" by myself, but 82" is a bit too awkward for me to grab solo
Realistically you're going to need at least 3 people, especially if you want to remove the stand while the tv is upright.
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post #6107 of 7499 Old 09-23-2019, 04:53 PM
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I just ordered the 82" from Best Buy, it'll be arriving October 3rd. ray0414 and BRAC, your in depth opinions of this TV were very helpful!
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post #6108 of 7499 Old 09-23-2019, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scipio Magnus View Post
I have been trying to get 4K and HDR working and have Dolby Atmos.

So far if I connect from the Xbox to HDMI 1 on the Soundbar and HDMI Arc out to the TV HDMI 3(Arc) I lose HDR from most Xbox apps.

Please help.

I have replaced 18Gb HDMI cables with monoprice HDMI 8k cables with no change.

If I connect to the TV first and then HDMI Arc out the soundbar I lose Dolby Atmos.
When you run it through the soundbar, you should only lose FreeSync. I connect it this way when I want to watch 4K HDR Blu-rays with Atmos on my One X and it works fine. If you run everything through the TV, you won't get Atmos (yet).

Quote:
Originally Posted by index View Post
I'm having my 82" Q90 delivered in a few days and I already have the no-gap wall at home (in a box).
The delivery guys will unbox and test the unit, so I assume they'll put it on the stand.
Need some advice here from those of you who went through this:
  • Is it easy to remove the stand from the unit so I can wall mount it later that day? Can I do it while the unit is standing (and somebody holding it)?
  • How many people do I need to help me hang this thing? I've hung 65" by myself, but 82" is a bit too awkward for me to grab solo
Make sure when you are ready to remove from the stand, 2 people lift the TV while the third unscrews it from the stand. Otherwise, the TV will fall right off once you unscrew it.
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post #6109 of 7499 Old 09-24-2019, 09:59 AM
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Stand Removal

Make sure when you are ready to remove from the stand, 2 people lift the TV while the third unscrews it from the stand. Otherwise, the TV will fall right off once you unscrew it.



Put the box flat on the floor and put a blanket on the box, lay the TV on the box facing down on top of the blanket with the stand hanging on the edge of the box and remove the stand. - Just my opinion

Last edited by jalumi69; 09-24-2019 at 10:03 AM.
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post #6110 of 7499 Old 09-24-2019, 12:53 PM
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I finally got my 82" Q90R last week. Thrilled with the picture, amazing upgrade to my 10 year old Panasonic Plasma. The wall adjacent to the TV is all windows with a southern exposure, and the daytime glare on the old plasma was so bad that the TV was unwatchable. The Q90R anti-reflection and brightness just completely eliminate those reflections. I am super happy, can watch TV during daylight hours again. And watching 4K video is awesome. I love everything about the picture.

But there is one huge problem that is driving me nuts - an uncorrectable audio delay when watching TV through my Fios TV One cable box. My setup is very basic - Fios into One Connect Box on HDMI 1, then HDMI ARC to Samsung HW-Q90R soundbar (ATMOS capable, with wireless surrounds). Samsung TV, Samsung soundbar, this really should work flawlessly. And with internal TV apps - Netflix, Amazon Prime - the audio syncs perfectly with the video. But with the FiosTV One box, the audio lags the video by probably at least 200 ms. It is very noticeable. And unacceptable.

There are audio delay adjustments on both the TV and the cable box, but these adjustment only add audio delay, they aren't design to reduce it, I guess because the normal situation is that delays in video processing cause the video to lag behind the audio. My situation is the opposite - the audio is lagging behind the video. So the available delay adjustments just make the situation worse.

Interestingly, if I change the Fios box audio output from DD to LPCM, the audio delay is fixed! But at the expense of losing the surround channels, which is not acceptable.

So the TV seems to be adding audio delay for DD sources, and I cannot seem to find a way to fix it. I am guessing that if I run the Fios box into the soundbar rather than into the TV, and let the soundbar pass the video to the TV, it will probably fix the problem. Haven't tried that yet. Seems with that setup I wouldn't be able to change sources between Fios and the internal apps with the TV remote, it would add a layer of inconvenience to change sources through the soundbar. I just want my setup to work, because it should.

Any ideas on what is going on here, and how I might fix it?
I had the same issue. I found that if you go to the Fios 'secret' menu you can pretty much eliminate the issue. I found that it doesn't 100% eliminate it since I do still notice it on occasion but it is much, much better than it was.

The forum won't let me attached the link but if you search 'Fios One TV + Soundbar Latency Fix' on Youtube (GYMCADDY is the publisher of the video) it should help
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post #6111 of 7499 Old 09-24-2019, 01:36 PM
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I had the same issue. I found that if you go to the Fios 'secret' menu you can pretty much eliminate the issue. ...
As reported, the Samsung TV adds excessive audio delay for Dolby Digital (and DTS) sound, so if you are OK with loosing 5.1DD sound you can get rid of this delay by using PCM.
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post #6112 of 7499 Old 09-24-2019, 02:08 PM
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So is earc still coming one day?
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post #6113 of 7499 Old 09-24-2019, 02:21 PM
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As reported, the Samsung TV adds excessive audio delay for Dolby Digital (and DTS) sound, so if you are OK with loosing 5.1DD sound you can get rid of this delay by using PCM.
I found it worth it since the lip sync was so bad. I found that I didn't lose too much sound since my Bose soundbar/bass cube does a decent job of processing the sound. I switched back and forth and found that it didn't change the sound a lot (maybe a little less full) and the lip sync was much more annoying so it was worth the trade-off to me for now.
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post #6114 of 7499 Old 09-25-2019, 08:00 AM
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Just taking delivery of a 75" today and wonder if someone can remind me how to enable the cal day/night modes. I did it on my 8550 and JS9000 but lost the file that had the steps in it.

Samsung 55" JS8500, 48" JS9000, 75" Q90R, 46" ES7100 - Sony 65" 900F

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post #6115 of 7499 Old 09-25-2019, 08:33 AM
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I am posting for the first time so please bear with me. I have a 65Q90 with a HW-850 bar. Xbox1x and Directtv to the OCB. The 850 has Atmos but does not pass HDR.

Last night I started to watch a 4k, HDR, Atmos show on DirectTV. To see if I was getting Atmos, I went to the TV advanced sound settings and found that the DD+ was now selectable which supposedly then allows Atmos. I made that selection and immediately the sound bars displayed Atmos. Will assume I was then listening to Atmos.

After the show was over, I went to the Xbox1x and started Gears 5 which is Atmos. Went to the TV advanced sound settings and DD+ was not available. Went to sound settings on the Xbox and selected HDMI Atmos. Got an error message that my receiver was not Atmos capable.

Very interesting in that it had just worked on DirectTV. I am beginning to think that the issue is not eARC but rather with Xbox which is not sending the correct signal to the TV to activate DD+ which is required for Atmos.

Thanks for reading.
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post #6116 of 7499 Old 09-25-2019, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Laurie Keiski View Post
I am beginning to think that the issue is not eARC but rather with Xbox which is not sending the correct signal to the TV to activate DD+ which is required for Atmos.
See this post.
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post #6117 of 7499 Old 09-25-2019, 09:19 AM
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I'm having my 82" Q90 delivered in a few days and I already have the no-gap wall at home (in a box).
The delivery guys will unbox and test the unit, so I assume they'll put it on the stand.
Need some advice here from those of you who went through this:
  • Is it easy to remove the stand from the unit so I can wall mount it later that day? Can I do it while the unit is standing (and somebody holding it)?
  • How many people do I need to help me hang this thing? I've hung 65" by myself, but 82" is a bit too awkward for me to grab solo
I had to look twice to make sure I didn't post this, I bought the 82" Q90R Labor Day weekend and then purchased the no gap mount as well and had it sitting there in the box when the TV was delivered. When it was delivered on the 18th they unboxed it and put it on the stand and verified it worked. There are 2 plastic pieces, 1 along each edge that you remove after putting it on the stand. I kept these as I had already decided I was going to pay to get the TV mounted to the wall rather than attempt it myself. When they came and mounted it to the wall they stuck these back on the TV when it was time to remove it from the stand and mount it. These protect the panel while it is being lifted and moved around. It was 2 guys that came and mounted it in my case.
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post #6118 of 7499 Old 09-25-2019, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Category 5 View Post
Just taking delivery of a 75" today and wonder if someone can remind me how to enable the cal day/night modes. I did it on my 8550 and JS9000 but lost the file that had the steps in it.
For me it happened automatically from DDC-connecting with CalMAN, otherwise I guess you have to use the service menu.
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post #6119 of 7499 Old 09-25-2019, 12:04 PM
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It just so happens that I have my VR PC hooked up to the Q90 with exactly those output settings already enabled so this was easy to test. And on my 82" I can see what I think you are talking about using the moving squares in this video, but only if I enable Clear Motion. I'm not gonna fire up my PS4 right now but I assume that I would see the same. I can also see it outside of game mode if I enable Clear Motion in the regular picture settings which leads me to believe that it's due to the low flicker rate. I guess I've never noticed this before because I keep the motion processing settings turned completely off. Clear Motion in Game Mode drops the flicker to 60Hz and that is just far too low for me.


If you are seeing this even with Clear Motion turned off I guess your eyes are somewhat more sensitive than mine. That sucks, I hope they can find a solution for you.
Thanks for testing. I've arranged a replacement, will see how that goes. TBH I expect the replacement to be the same.
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post #6120 of 7499 Old 09-25-2019, 01:11 PM
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I found it worth it since the lip sync was so bad. I found that I didn't lose too much sound since my Bose soundbar/bass cube does a decent job of processing the sound. I switched back and forth and found that it didn't change the sound a lot (maybe a little less full) and the lip sync was much more annoying so it was worth the trade-off to me for now.
Agree, with a 3.1 soundbar that simulates surround from the front, it makes sense to revert to LPCM and lose the discreet surround data but fix the lip synch issue. In my case, I have discreet wireless surround speakers, and switching to LPCM of course totally silences the surround channels. Not a tradeoff I was willing to accept.

My fix was to run the Fios TV One box into the soundbar first, passing through the video to the TV. This is a little less elegant in terms of how sources are changed via the remotes and the TV UI, but is acceptable and fixes the lip synch issue. Hoping there is an eventual fix, and I can go back to running sources directly into the TV.
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