2019 Samsung Q90R Owners Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 213 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6361 of 6728 Old 10-20-2019, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by cstrasz View Post
Hey all,



My Q90 arrived yesterday and still getting used to it (upgrading from an edge lit f6400). Had some questions.



I upgraded my receiver and want to make sure I have the connections correct:

- I have my gaming consoles and Roku going through the receiver and the receiver's HDMI eARC/ARC output going to the same HDMI ARC input on the Samsung. So only one cable from the receiver to the TV.

- I realize the Samsung doesn't have eARC but wanted to make sure I still had audio over ARC for the built in apps on the tv.

- For the other devices, does it just use that same ARC connection as a normal HDMI out? I haven't used ARC in the past.



I'm a little surprised at the size of blooming around white. Maybe it's because I was recently at my friend's and saw his OLED. I thought this would be tighter but maybe it's because I'm on the 82"?



bjorktribe - The do you have an example that I can test the game HDR issue with? I mainly bought this for movies and gaming so want to see how bad that gets.



Thanks all!


Make sure you’re using port 3 on the One Connect box thing. That’s the only one that’s ARC if I’m remembering correctly.

Can’t answer your question about blooming per se. On my 75 it’s pretty minor in my opinion.


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post #6362 of 6728 Old 10-20-2019, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by cstrasz View Post
Hey all,

My Q90 arrived yesterday and still getting used to it (upgrading from an edge lit f6400). Had some questions.

I upgraded my receiver and want to make sure I have the connections correct:
- I have my gaming consoles and Roku going through the receiver and the receiver's HDMI eARC/ARC output going to the same HDMI ARC input on the Samsung. So only one cable from the receiver to the TV.
- I realize the Samsung doesn't have eARC but wanted to make sure I still had audio over ARC for the built in apps on the tv.
- For the other devices, does it just use that same ARC connection as a normal HDMI out? I haven't used ARC in the past.

I'm a little surprised at the size of blooming around white. Maybe it's because I was recently at my friend's and saw his OLED. I thought this would be tighter but maybe it's because I'm on the 82"?

bjorktribe - The do you have an example that I can test the game HDR issue with? I mainly bought this for movies and gaming so want to see how bad that gets.

Thanks all!
Well... I am sorry to dissapoint you but blooming is absolutely normal on this TV. Soft dark performance is actually very bad... I saw side by side Q7FN and Q90. Q7 was much much superior in dark performance I could not believe my eyes.

Ink black fairytales here are just fairytales... in my opinion sory.
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post #6363 of 6728 Old 10-20-2019, 04:39 PM
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Well... I am sorry to dissapoint you but blooming is absolutely normal on this TV. Soft dark performance is actually very bad... I saw side by side Q7FN and Q90. Q7 was much much superior in dark performance I could not believe my eyes.



Ink black fairytales here are just fairytales... in my opinion sory.
I think one thing that threw me off are the video comparisons between the Sony 950g and this set. They mentioned the Samsung not exhibiting blooming in the black bars while the Sony was supposedly really bad about it.

That's one of the things that swayed me away from the Sony, yet I still see the bloom from subtitles pretty clearly. I guess the 950g is even worse?

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post #6364 of 6728 Old 10-20-2019, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cstrasz View Post
I think one thing that threw me off are the video comparisons between the Sony 950g and this set. They mentioned the Samsung not exhibiting blooming in the black bars while the Sony was supposedly really bad about it.

That's one of the things that swayed me away from the Sony, yet I still see the bloom from subtitles pretty clearly. I guess the 950g is even worse?

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I dont know man... I didnt have 950g at home so I cannot tell. Propably you are right.

But I think that if blooming around subtitles is your issue than actually you ended very well I wish I had only that subtitles blooming problems with my q90.
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post #6365 of 6728 Old 10-20-2019, 07:31 PM
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do you have an example that I can test the game HDR issue with? I mainly bought this for movies and gaming so want to see how bad that gets.
Resident Evil 2, MK11 to a lesser extent, The Hitman demo and another game I couldn't test. If you look about 10 pages back someone had posted a video showcasing the issue. RE2 was truly distracting because there are a lot of hard lines with contrasting shades.
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post #6366 of 6728 Old 10-20-2019, 08:34 PM
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One Connect Issue is off putting

Was ready to go with the Samsung q90 but am troubled by the One Connect that now includes the power in the cord. We spent big bucks to have a contractor meet code and place an outlet in our wall at TV level to plug our current wall mounted into, and then I run the HDMI and audio cords up an adjacent PVC pipe behind the wall. I understand prior One Connect boxes were thin enough to hide behind the TV, but the larger boxes that contain power shouldnt be hidden behind the TV? Is that true? Even one "nearly invisible" cable haging down is going backwards for me and I imagine many looking to spend 2K on a TV have gone through the trouble of gettting all wirest out of sight. Any advice?
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post #6367 of 6728 Old 10-20-2019, 08:40 PM
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Get a Q80R instead?
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post #6368 of 6728 Old 10-20-2019, 09:03 PM
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Get a Q80R instead?
I think that has the larger one connect box too, where can I look to see which box it has?
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post #6369 of 6728 Old 10-20-2019, 09:29 PM
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I think that has the larger one connect box too, where can I look to see which box it has?
Q80R does not feature a one connect box. It has "traditional" rear inputs. Many consider it a better value vs the Q90R.
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post #6370 of 6728 Old 10-20-2019, 10:16 PM
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Q80R does not feature a one connect box. It has "traditional" rear inputs. Many consider it a better value vs the Q90R.
Hiperco thanks so much!
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post #6371 of 6728 Old 10-20-2019, 11:26 PM
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Was ready to go with the Samsung q90 but am troubled by the One Connect that now includes the power in the cord. We spent big bucks to have a contractor meet code and place an outlet in our wall at TV level to plug our current wall mounted into, and then I run the HDMI and audio cords up an adjacent PVC pipe behind the wall. I understand prior One Connect boxes were thin enough to hide behind the TV, but the larger boxes that contain power shouldnt be hidden behind the TV? Is that true? Even one "nearly invisible" cable haging down is going backwards for me and I imagine many looking to spend 2K on a TV have gone through the trouble of gettting all wirest out of sight. Any advice?


I ran my OCB wire inside the wall. House didn’t burn down yet.
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post #6372 of 6728 Old 10-20-2019, 11:54 PM
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I ran my OCB wire inside the wall. House didn’t burn down yet.

And chances are it never will, but that doesn't make ignoring the NEC a good idea.

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post #6373 of 6728 Old 10-21-2019, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by cstrasz View Post
Hey all,

My Q90 arrived yesterday and still getting used to it (upgrading from an edge lit f6400). Had some questions.

I upgraded my receiver and want to make sure I have the connections correct:
- I have my gaming consoles and Roku going through the receiver and the receiver's HDMI eARC/ARC output going to the same HDMI ARC input on the Samsung. So only one cable from the receiver to the TV.
- I realize the Samsung doesn't have eARC but wanted to make sure I still had audio over ARC for the built in apps on the tv.
- For the other devices, does it just use that same ARC connection as a normal HDMI out? I haven't used ARC in the past.

I'm a little surprised at the size of blooming around white. Maybe it's because I was recently at my friend's and saw his OLED. I thought this would be tighter but maybe it's because I'm on the 82"?

bjorktribe - The do you have an example that I can test the game HDR issue with? I mainly bought this for movies and gaming so want to see how bad that gets.

Thanks all!

Blooming can be reduced with settings. With SDR, keep your dimming on low and lower the back light to between 10 and 20 and the blooming will be much improved.

Idk what's wrong with my set the with HDR content, if I do the reccoommened settings of backlight at 50 and dimming on high, the blacks are completely blown out and lit up gray. The screen and highlights are just way too bright for this zone grid to handle, so I'm keeping the backlight around 25-35 for hdr content and putting the dimming at low/standard. But I'm also using a Panasonic UB820 and bumping up dynamic range to help make up for the loss in brightness.
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post #6374 of 6728 Old 10-21-2019, 07:16 AM
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I'm keeping the backlight around 25-35 for hdr content and putting the dimming at low/standard.
That sounds like something's wrong. Do you know what peak brightness you get as a result? Have you tried keeping backlight at 50 and dimming on high, and lowering contrast instead?
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post #6375 of 6728 Old 10-21-2019, 07:46 AM
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I'm a little surprised at the size of blooming around white. Maybe it's because I was recently at my friend's and saw his OLED. I thought this would be tighter but maybe it's because I'm on the 82"?
What settings are you using? For best accuracy, use Movie picture mode and Warm2 color tone, for both SDR and HDR. For SDR use local dimming on Low or Standard, for HDR keep it on High. Try lowering backlight for SDR; on my 75", setting to 15 measures ~100 nits, probably brighter on an 82". For HDR, keep backlight at 50, but try lowering contrast; hard to say where to without measuring, but probably down to 45, and perhaps as low as 40.
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post #6376 of 6728 Old 10-21-2019, 08:55 AM
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I just sold my less than a year old 65" OLED because I THOUGHT I was a quality kind of guy, lol. And actually I think somehow I actually prefer the picture on LCDs (sacrilege I know). They seem to have more depth to the image. I'm planning on pulling the trigger on an 82" Q90R in the next month or so (with EPP available to me).
Samsung EPP is not always the best price.

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I was in Best Buy yesterday and it gave me the opportunity to compare OLED to QLED. They only had the Q80 (no Q90) on the floor but I still thought it looked better than the LG's on the floor. I also got to see the Q900 (8K) for the first time. It looked nice but nothing that made me regret my choice.

I am disappointed by the number of people who "try out" a tv at home and in some cases multiple times. It's one thing to return a defective TV and another to waste money/increase costs for everyone else due to their indecisiveness.
That is part of the high prices to begin with, meaning people pay for this privilege, crazy to pay for something and if you feel you need to not use it.....don't. Great news is Paying that retail price is a choice as you can buy else where for less.....

The "multiple times" thing, you are spot on....
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post #6377 of 6728 Old 10-21-2019, 10:19 AM
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I think one thing that threw me off are the video comparisons between the Sony 950g and this set. They mentioned the Samsung not exhibiting blooming in the black bars while the Sony was supposedly really bad about it.

That's one of the things that swayed me away from the Sony, yet I still see the bloom from subtitles pretty clearly. I guess the 950g is even worse?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
The subtitle issue with this TV is horrible -- i don't have a problem with the black bars. I think the video processing that goes on accounts well for the black bars but not at all for subtitles.

My Q90 literally 'pulsates' brightness as subtitles appear and disappear from the screen -- the entire picture will get brighter and then darken again when the subtitles go away -- it's incredibly bad, really. I've also noticed the problem is worse with HDR content.
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post #6378 of 6728 Old 10-21-2019, 10:40 AM
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Does anyone know if there is a way to get the expert picture settings to be different pet app type? I'm guessing not. Was trying to tweak settings for YouTube tv app to be different than the Netflix app.

Also is it expected that the built in apps provide a difference in visual quality compared to a roku ultra? It's weird but it feels like the Netflix app is a tiny bit better (at least the interface itself seems clearer. )

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post #6379 of 6728 Old 10-21-2019, 11:56 AM
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The subtitle issue with this TV is horrible -- i don't have a problem with the black bars. I think the video processing that goes on accounts well for the black bars but not at all for subtitles.

My Q90 literally 'pulsates' brightness as subtitles appear and disappear from the screen -- the entire picture will get brighter and then darken again when the subtitles go away -- it's incredibly bad, really. I've also noticed the problem is worse with HDR content.
I accept that the native contrast ratio in not infinite. I have the 55" which also has a bit less than larger models. I got rid of the pulsating light level by setting dimming to Low both for SDR and HDR (remember that the TV has separate memories for this setting).

Also because "black" is relative to my perception, I keep some background lighting in the room and set the TV backlight to a level that makes blooming from the brightest objects to have an acceptable level.
With my settings (adjusted with DVE HD and S&M UHD test patterns) I don't notice any blooming from subtitles. (The brightness of the text might play a role and depends on your boxes/players. The built in Netflix could be a common reference to us, and I don't see a problem (dimming Low. Movie mode and HDR backlight 34). Bright scenes are anyway fairly bright, without needing my sunglasses ..)
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post #6380 of 6728 Old 10-21-2019, 12:06 PM
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And chances are it never will, but that doesn't make ignoring the NEC a good idea.

One connect doesn't feed 120VAC, more like low current 12 or 24 VDC. I can't imagine it would ever be a fire hazard.
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post #6381 of 6728 Old 10-21-2019, 12:35 PM
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The built in Netflix could be a common reference to us, and I don't see a problem (dimming Low. Movie mode and HDR backlight 34).
On my 75", in Movie/Warm2 HDR with backlight 50 and contrast 50, local dimming Low produces a peak brightness of only about 476(!) nits, vs about 1490 nits with local dimming High. And with local dimming Low, grayscale is noticeably below the EOTF curve. With local dimming High and contrast 50, reducing backlight to 38 produces a peak brightness of only about 1030 nits. I shudder to think what the combination of local dimming Low and backlight 34 produces (I haven't tried measuring it), but it seems to me like you're sacrificing most of the H in HDR. But to each their own.
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One connect doesn't feed 120VAC, more like low current 12 or 24 VDC. I can't imagine it would ever be a fire hazard.
I'd be more concerned about the outer jacket of the wire than the actual current going through the wire itself. To each their own though.

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That sounds like something's wrong. Do you know what peak brightness you get as a result? Have you tried keeping backlight at 50 and dimming on high, and lowering contrast instead?
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On my 75", in Movie/Warm2 HDR with backlight 50 and contrast 50, local dimming Low produces a peak brightness of only about 476(!) nits, vs about 1490 nits with local dimming High. And with local dimming Low, grayscale is noticeably below the EOTF curve. With local dimming High and contrast 50, reducing backlight to 38 produces a peak brightness of only about 1030 nits. I shudder to think what the combination of local dimming Low and backlight 34 produces (I haven't tried measuring it), but it seems to me like you're sacrificing most of the H in HDR. But to each their own.
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What settings are you using? For best accuracy, use Movie picture mode and Warm2 color tone, for both SDR and HDR. For SDR use local dimming on Low or Standard, for HDR keep it on High. Try lowering backlight for SDR; on my 75", setting to 15 measures ~100 nits, probably brighter on an 82". For HDR, keep backlight at 50, but try lowering contrast; hard to say where to without measuring, but probably down to 45, and perhaps as low as 40.


will try the contrast trick, but again im not a huge fan of being super accurate, as long as it doesn't look like a clown show on the tv. for the record, im not using movie mode, which means my picture is brighter anyways (also using the panny to increase the brightness too)

there is definitely some whacky glitch with this dimming on the 82". i was able to fix the dimming a few weeks ago using the ram cleaner but now its not working. also worth noting that everything ive seen, seems to indicate that the 82" is brighther than the smaller sizes for most cases.

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also using the panny to increase the brightness too
The player can't increase peak brightness, though.
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post #6385 of 6728 Old 10-22-2019, 04:19 AM
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The subtitle issue with this TV is horrible -- i don't have a problem with the black bars. I think the video processing that goes on accounts well for the black bars but not at all for subtitles.

My Q90 literally 'pulsates' brightness as subtitles appear and disappear from the screen -- the entire picture will get brighter and then darken again when the subtitles go away -- it's incredibly bad, really. I've also noticed the problem is worse with HDR content.
It really depends in the TV settings which can really increase or reduce blooming.
Coming from an OLED I clearly saw blooming at the first time, but now my settings have really reduced it, even with subtitles. By the way, if you can change the subtitles colors, switching from white to yellow helps a lot too but it's not possible all the time.
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post #6386 of 6728 Old 10-22-2019, 10:51 AM
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I accept that the native contrast ratio in not infinite. I have the 55" which also has a bit less than larger models. I got rid of the pulsating light level by setting dimming to Low both for SDR and HDR (remember that the TV has separate memories for this setting).

Also because "black" is relative to my perception, I keep some background lighting in the room and set the TV backlight to a level that makes blooming from the brightest objects to have an acceptable level.
With my settings (adjusted with DVE HD and S&M UHD test patterns) I don't notice any blooming from subtitles. (The brightness of the text might play a role and depends on your boxes/players. The built in Netflix could be a common reference to us, and I don't see a problem (dimming Low. Movie mode and HDR backlight 34). Bright scenes are anyway fairly bright, without needing my sunglasses ..)
I hear you, but it's a $5,000 TV, so i have a difficult time accepting those settings as necessary to make the TV 'work' properly. It's like buying a sports car, and you are told, make sure not to go over 60 or you will start to have problems with the engine.

Also, i'm not one to max out my settings, i don't like that look -- i usually keep my backlight at the 30-40 range depending on day or night viewing. I have tried many different combinations of settings to make the problem go away, and it has not. The only thing i can do is make the pulsating not as noticeable.
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post #6387 of 6728 Old 10-22-2019, 12:46 PM
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The player can't increase peak brightness, though.
Exactly. This matches my observations.

I had to turn off the HDR optimizer on my UB820 with the Q90 because it was artificially increasing the overall brightness of the image, while NOT increasing peak brightness of the brightest highlights. The HDR optimizer was reducing the impact of my bright highlights by over brightening darker areas of the image far too much. The resulting image lacked detail and took on this crazy bleached look.
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post #6388 of 6728 Old 10-22-2019, 04:08 PM
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Most professional reviewers say that Samsung already brightens the scenes with respect to EOTF curve. If you had the source also brightening it, overall picture, as you said, will look bleached. I take it that you are still very pleased with Q90. I am getting close to making a decision.
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post #6389 of 6728 Old 10-22-2019, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Vishwa Somayaji View Post
Most professional reviewers say that Samsung already brightens the scenes with respect to EOTF curve. If you had the source also brightening it, overall picture, as you said, will look bleached. I take it that you are still very pleased with Q90. I am getting close to making a decision.
Yes. It’s not perfect, but I’m still very pleased with the performance of the Q90.

Also, I agree that the pumped up EOTF curve is likely the reason why the UB820 HDR optimizer does not play nice with the Q90.
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Samsung 82” Q90R * LG 55” C8 * Denon X4500H * 5.2.4 Atmos * Xbox One X * PS4 Pro
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post #6390 of 6728 Old 10-22-2019, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BRAC View Post
Exactly. This matches my observations.

I had to turn off the HDR optimizer on my UB820 with the Q90 because it was artificially increasing the overall brightness of the image, while NOT increasing peak brightness of the brightest highlights. The HDR optimizer was reducing the impact of my bright highlights by over brightening darker areas of the image far too much. The resulting image lacked detail and took on this crazy bleached look.

I was referring to the dynamic range slider, not the HDR optimizer.
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