2019 Samsung Q90R Owners Thread (No Price Talk) - Page 233 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #6961 of 7456 Old 12-04-2019, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by HDRX View Post
What does the latest firmware update bring?
Per SS's release notes here it is in all it's clear as mud glory:

Model : RU8000, Q60RA, Q70RA, Q80RA, Q90RA, Q900RB, LS03, LS01
- Version : 1335.0
- Improved usability 1. Improved browser performance 2. Improved app performance 3. Improved stability 4. Improved usability of input devices

Has anyone tested weather the video/audio delay when using DD+ over ARC is finally fixed with this FW? (SS community thread https://eu.community.samsung.com/t5/...t/td-p/1165111 )
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post #6962 of 7456 Old 12-04-2019, 10:18 AM
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I have both the Q90 TV and soundbar. Both are current as of yesterday's update. I have an xbox 1x and DirectTV 4K box connected to the OCB. Before the update, in sound DD+ was grayed out for each unless I was receiving an Atmos signal from the 4K box. After the update, DD+ is always available for the 4K box but not the Xbox. Also xbox will not allow Atmos setting since DD+ unavailable. It would seem that we did not get eARC as promised. Oh well, buy a splitter and go that route. Not totally surprised that the Q90's only were not given eARC as that could have triggered discrimination law suits. Interested to hear what other users have found.
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post #6963 of 7456 Old 12-04-2019, 07:28 PM
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I have my AV receiver connected to my Q90 via HDMI ARC (I see no advantage to external smart set top boxes for streaming content, unless I’m missing something?)

But there is a problem: While my receiver seems to correctly respond to power on/off commands over HDMI, for some reason when I turn on my Samsung Q90 it does not default to AVR audio output and instead uses the integrated speakers.

As soon as I use the Samsung menu to select audio output to AVR, the AVR immediately turns on and sound is directed to it. And when I turn off the TV, the AVR turns off. But when I turn on the TV the AVR remains off until I go into sound settings and select AVR for sound output. So I know it’s not a fundamental HDMI or AVR problem.

So the question is: Why does my Q90 keep resetting the audio the default built in speakers? Do I need to configure something else in the settings? Or could my AVR be the problem? In another room I have an LG TV connected to a Sonos Amp via HDMI ARC and I’ve never had a problem with it reverting to the built in speakers, like this.

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post #6964 of 7456 Old 12-05-2019, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by HiDyRa View Post
Thanks for the advice.
I'll try that out.
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Originally Posted by ionblue View Post
Just finished up the calibration on my 75". Poor guys laptop was not behaving so he had to skip the initial auto calibration and do it all manually. Took some time! And then the damn TV wasn't cooperating with us when switching sources so that added a bit more time to get straight.

I'm really surprised at how much he was able to widen the color range without making things look totally fake or wrong. Have a look at my graphs to see how far out of whack the grayscale was. I'd recommend to anyone to have it done if you don't mind dropping a few more dollars.

Can't recall who it was in the Tampa area that wanted to know how it turned out, but whomever you are it's worth it.



What hardware and software did you us to calibrate the Q90r SDR and HDR? Also did you calibrate using Autocal or something else

I was browsing around, but cant seem to find one that does HDR.


Thanks
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post #6965 of 7456 Old 12-05-2019, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Elavarasan View Post
What hardware and software did you us to calibrate the Q90r SDR and HDR? Also did you calibrate using Autocal or something else

I was browsing around, but cant seem to find one that does HDR.


Thanks

He was going to run the first part with Autocal, but Windows wasn’t cooperating and kept assigning everything plugged in to one com port.

His gear was:

Meter: Klein Instruments K Series 6
Source: Murideo 6G Generator

He had something else as well, but it wasn’t listed in the docs.


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post #6966 of 7456 Old 12-05-2019, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by ionblue View Post
He was going to run the first part with Autocal, but Windows wasn’t cooperating and kept assigning everything plugged in to one com port.

His gear was:

Meter: Klein Instruments K Series 6
Source: Murideo 6G Generator

He had something else as well, but it wasn’t listed in the docs.


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Thanks ionblue


I just googled his equipment they are few grand.
I was just going to buy them for my TV if their was cheap but looks like not.
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post #6967 of 7456 Old 12-05-2019, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Elavarasan View Post
Thanks ionblue


I just googled his equipment they are few grand.
I was just going to buy them for my TV if their was cheap but looks like not.


Yeah they’re not cheap, but he does this for a living. If you happen to have an ISF certified calibrator in or near your area I would go that route. And I wouldn’t use the Magnolia folks from Best Buy unless it’s your only option. They can’t do all of what this guy could do.


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post #6968 of 7456 Old 12-05-2019, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Elavarasan View Post
What hardware and software did you us to calibrate the Q90r SDR and HDR? I was browsing around, but cant seem to find one that does HDR.

https://xritephoto.com/ph_product_overview.aspx?id=2640


I'm currently looking at the X-Rite i1Display Pro Plus which claims to support calibrating HDR displays and isn't crazy expensive. Altho I'd love other people's feedback on this or other products that they've used to calibrate their Q90s.
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post #6969 of 7456 Old 12-05-2019, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by HiDyRa View Post
https://xritephoto.com/ph_product_overview.aspx?id=2640


I'm currently looking at the X-Rite i1Display Pro Plus which claims to support calibrating HDR displays and isn't crazy expensive. Altho I'd love other people's feedback on this or other products that they've used to calibrate their Q90s.


That would only be part of it. You need a good hardware generator for the HDR portion. I think.


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post #6970 of 7456 Old 12-05-2019, 11:47 AM
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I noticed rtings.com has this update:

"Update 11/28/2019: Although not officially supported by NVIDIA, the Q90R works with NVIDIA's new G-SYNC compatible mode when connected to a recent NVIDIA graphics card. Unlike officially supported TVs, like the LG C9, this must be manually enabled from the NVIDIA Control Center."

But I had no luck with my RTX 2080 Ti; constant signal loss with firmware 1335. Maybe someone else will have better luck.
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post #6971 of 7456 Old 12-05-2019, 11:55 AM
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You need a good hardware generator for the HDR portion. I think.
You can calibrate using HDR10 test patterns (e.g., the free Mehanik ones), but you may find it painful.
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post #6972 of 7456 Old 12-05-2019, 12:01 PM
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You can calibrate using HDR10 test patterns (e.g., the free Mehanik ones), but you may find it painful.

Yeah. I’m good having a pro do it. Hope it stays stable a good while. Certainly looks great now!


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post #6973 of 7456 Old 12-05-2019, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ionblue View Post
Just finished up the calibration on my 75". Poor guys laptop was not behaving so he had to skip the initial auto calibration and do it all manually. Took some time! And then the damn TV wasn't cooperating with us when switching sources so that added a bit more time to get straight.
Who did your calibration?
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post #6974 of 7456 Old 12-05-2019, 01:20 PM
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Who did your calibration?

Jason Dustal


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post #6975 of 7456 Old 12-05-2019, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by HiDyRa View Post
https://xritephoto.com/ph_product_overview.aspx?id=2640


I'm currently looking at the X-Rite i1Display Pro Plus which claims to support calibrating HDR displays and isn't crazy expensive. Altho I'd love other people's feedback on this or other products that they've used to calibrate their Q90s.
Well... dont take my opinion like I am trying to scare you off.... but if you want to calibrate TVs... you have to take it like a long long route.

There is a lot of screwing on and calibration mafia business will try to rip you off as much as they can.

Thats my opinion.

Now to your question about xrite. First things first, what you are looking at is actually only ,,colorimeter". THAT IS A BIG QUESTIONABLE DEVICE which, if you dont know exactly what to look for, you can spend money for nothing. Forget on devices which can just measure you displays for low cost. why? colorimeter only works as... well... as colorimeter. That means its a device which can measure colors (red, green, blue). If you have right setup for that device it can make job done. BUT! that device actually cannot measure light, which you TV emits. That means you need pre-programed light profiles for your xrite display pro. Like if you want calibrate q90, you ll need light- readed matrix for your xrite display pro. without it you can go f*ck yourself.
That being said, make sure that xrite you are looking for have preprogramed matrix for q90 tvs... and pray that q90 dont differt in light emmiting acros regions which samsung sale on.
Oh and forget about guarantee to read all your future displays. If some new, or upraded technology comes out (like new qleds) there is absolutelly no guarantee that xrite company will provide you with new matrix for new displays. Usually it goes like they will.... if you pay them again a lot of money.

That was my case actually.... I was like huray! I am going to calibrate... yes I am awesome. I spent 300 euros for that cheap plastic crap, turned it on at home and woala: ,,I could go f*ck myself". That time they didnt provide any matrix for suhd (qleds) so i coult take that plastic crap and throw it to garbage. If course I didnt... I bought spectroradiometer (1300 euro) which actually can read light from TVs... and since than I always create matrix for that plastic crap so it is accurate and usable.

I hope it will help a bit...

all good
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post #6976 of 7456 Old 12-05-2019, 10:09 PM
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I noticed rtings.com has this update:

"Update 11/28/2019: Although not officially supported by NVIDIA, the Q90R works with NVIDIA's new G-SYNC compatible mode when connected to a recent NVIDIA graphics card. Unlike officially supported TVs, like the LG C9, this must be manually enabled from the NVIDIA Control Center."

But I had no luck with my RTX 2080 Ti; constant signal loss with firmware 1335. Maybe someone else will have better luck.

I also saw this. Since I'm also in the process of streamlining some things I decided to give this a go with my 2080ti. Also on TV firmware 1335, Nvidia firmware 441. So far no luck with the same results as you, constant signal drop outs.


2 caveats....I am using a high quality 12ft HDMI from my PC to OC Box (HDMI 4). It's a known good cable, but I have no idea what impact (if any) HDMI cable length will have on G-Sync. 2nd, I only gave this a go at 4K. I have a lot to do ATM but when I can focus specifically on this I may give this another go at 1440p.

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post #6977 of 7456 Old 12-05-2019, 10:12 PM
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Hi Nillaz, I was wondering if you had a chance to purposely break the ALLM and run a reset?

What's interesting is when I did have it working for a while, it didn't have issues even after I renamed the input to the name of the receiver vs Xbox One. Anyways, not a big deal if you don't want to go through the hassle of a reset - just figured I'd ask Thanks!

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Just wanted to give an update on this. I did break this earlier tonight and my former method definitely does NOT work anymore. No idea if something changed in a recent firmware but I'm pretty puzzled on how I'm gonna get ALLM back lol. If I figure it out I will certainly update again.
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post #6978 of 7456 Old 12-06-2019, 07:54 AM
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With the AppleTV app is it normal for the picture mode not to display HDR10 or HDR10+ so does this mean any programs, such as 4k HDR 'See', are only displaying in HD? I have it on all accounts that the AppleTV box does display the correct HDR picture mode...
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post #6979 of 7456 Old 12-06-2019, 12:25 PM
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With the AppleTV app is it normal for the picture mode not to display HDR10 or HDR10+ so does this mean any programs, such as 4k HDR 'See', are only displaying in HD? I have it on all accounts that the AppleTV box does display the correct HDR picture mode...


I can’t speak to the Apple TV app, but there are several badges you should see in the top info banner. You’ll see HD, UHD, or UHD HDR. On my Apple TV 4K I see UHD HDR for their shows and also shows on Netflix. On a few shows on Prime Video I only see UHD because the shows are only 4K UHD, but not HDR.

Hope that helps.


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post #6980 of 7456 Old 12-06-2019, 02:24 PM
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With the AppleTV app is it normal for the picture mode not to display HDR10 or HDR10+ so does this mean any programs, such as 4k HDR 'See', are only displaying in HD? I have it on all accounts that the AppleTV box does display the correct HDR picture mode...


Came across this in my browsing... Apple may be having some kind of issue with Dolby Vision. Haven’t verified it yet and I don’t know if it the same in the app as in the ATV4K.


https://www.cultofmac.com/670408/app...-dolby-vision/


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post #6981 of 7456 Old 12-06-2019, 07:15 PM
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You can try bumping up the gamma but it seems crush is baked in. Honestly hdr+ mode is extremely similar to Standard but the shadow detail is much better. I can put the brightness to - 3/-4 on hdr+ and it still has better shadow detail than standard mode.
Sorry for the very late reply.

Bumping up the gamma could help a bit, but then I’d be worried that those setting would get carried over to other sources as well. On 4K Blu-rays everything looks nearly perfect in Standard mode with local dimming on High. And delving into the service menu to engage HDR+ mode isn’t something I want to do.

I recently purchased an Apple TV 4K mainly to be able to watch (listen) to The Mandalorian in 5.1 sound. But after seeing just how much better the blacks were on the Apple TV 4K, I figured I’d try it out on other content as well. I always loved the quality of streaming 4K HDR movies on the TVs Vudu app, but the blacks were always a bit raised with the Standard picture preset with local dimming High. Using local dimming Medium gives great blacks but crushes them on interior scenes and nighttime shots.

I haven’t tried Vudu on the Apple TV 4K, but I did watch the same movies through the Apple TV app (which is from the iTunes library) on the ATV 4K. All I can say is WOW! Night and day difference!

Now using the ATV 4K there are no crushed blacks in nighttime scenes or interior scenes. So for 4K HDR content I’ll be using the ATV 4K. For non 4K content I personally prefer the way it looks using the TVs native apps with the Natural picture preset with local dimming on Low (could be Medium don’t remember). To my eyes it has a bit more wow factor.

But I will say this, this TV is capable of delivering some of the most immersive picture quality I’ve seen! At its best, it is neck and neck with the Sony Z9D! And that’s no small feat! I watched Leon-The Professional on 4K Blu-ray last night. It has to be the best I have ever seen that movie look! It looked phenomenal on the Q90! Highly recommend this movie on 4K Blu-ray!
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post #6982 of 7456 Old 12-06-2019, 11:33 PM
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Has anyone noticed this happening? The built in Amazon Prime Video app when playing HDR10+ content seems to randomly switch brightness at times. It’s very weird, like some is playing with the gamma or brightness, switching some setting on and off randomly every minute or so. Dynamic contrast is off, and this is movie mode.
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post #6983 of 7456 Old 12-07-2019, 02:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuke2u View Post
With the AppleTV app is it normal for the picture mode not to display HDR10 or HDR10+ so does this mean any programs, such as 4k HDR 'See', are only displaying in HD? I have it on all accounts that the AppleTV box does display the correct HDR picture mode...


Came across this in my browsing... Apple may be having some kind of issue with Dolby Vision. Haven’️t verified it yet and I don’️t know if it the same in the app as in the ATV4K.

https://www.cultofmac.com/670408/app...-dolby-vision/


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I came across that article too and it does suggest there is a coding issue...
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post #6984 of 7456 Old 12-07-2019, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuke2u View Post
With the AppleTV app is it normal for the picture mode not to display HDR10 or HDR10+ so does this mean any programs, such as 4k HDR 'See', are only displaying in HD? I have it on all accounts that the AppleTV box does display the correct HDR picture mode...


I can’️t speak to the Apple TV app, but there are several badges you should see in the top info banner. You’️ll see HD, UHD, or UHD HDR. On my Apple TV 4K I see UHD HDR for their shows and also shows on Netflix. On a few shows on Prime Video I only see UHD because the shows are only 4K UHD, but not HDR.

Hope that helps.


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Unfortunately, with the ATV app and my q90r the only way I know how to display the content picture code is to go to home then settings...
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post #6985 of 7456 Old 12-07-2019, 03:15 AM
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Has anyone noticed this happening? The built in Amazon Prime Video app when playing HDR10+ content seems to randomly switch brightness at times. It’s very weird, like some is playing with the gamma or brightness, switching some setting on and off randomly every minute or so. Dynamic contrast is off, and this is movie mode.


Yes this happens to me. It’s very distracting.

I also have problems with HDR content with blooming. If there is a bright spot on the screen and the scene quickly changes to something else, it take a full second for the bright area to darken.
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post #6986 of 7456 Old 12-07-2019, 07:55 AM
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Unfortunately, with the ATV app and my q90r the only way I know how to display the content picture code is to go to home then settings...

Ah. I have a Harmony remote and the info button pulls that up. I can also see it if I hit the current source button. There’s another way to do it with the included remote that’s been mentioned here. Can’t recall it though.


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post #6987 of 7456 Old 12-07-2019, 12:30 PM
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Lip-Sync Problem?

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Originally Posted by Laurie Keiski View Post
I have both the Q90 TV and soundbar. Both are current as of yesterday's update. I have an xbox 1x and DirectTV 4K box connected to the OCB. Before the update, in sound DD+ was grayed out for each unless I was receiving an Atmos signal from the 4K box. After the update, DD+ is always available for the 4K box but not the Xbox. Also xbox will not allow Atmos setting since DD+ unavailable. It would seem that we did not get eARC as promised. Oh well, buy a splitter and go that route. Not totally surprised that the Q90's only were not given eARC as that could have triggered discrimination law suits. Interested to hear what other users have found.
Laurie, I have the Q90R TV and Q80R soundbar. With my cable box (with DD audio) and Roku Ultra connected to the OCB, and the TV and Soundbar connected with ARC, I'm getting really bad lip-sync issues (the Samsung forums are filled with reports of the same issue with Xbox, and just about any other external source connected to the OCB).


You have the same TV and the same soundbar (my Q80 doesn't have the rears) as I do. Do you NOT have any lip-sync problems?
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post #6988 of 7456 Old 12-07-2019, 12:39 PM
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I can’t speak to the Apple TV app, but there are several badges you should see in the top info banner. You’ll see HD, UHD, or UHD HDR. On my Apple TV 4K I see UHD HDR for their shows and also shows on Netflix. On a few shows on Prime Video I only see UHD because the shows are only 4K UHD, but not HDR.

Hope that helps.


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With my brief experience, with both the internal and Roku, the Netflix app does a good job of identifying HDR content. The Prime Video app, not so much. For what it's worth, on Prime, I type 4K into the search bar, and it brings up many options to select 4K HDR movies and shows. So I just scroll through those when looking for HDR content.
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post #6989 of 7456 Old 12-07-2019, 12:55 PM
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Sorry to keep coming back to this lip-sync problem, but I'm so frustrated, and the return window is closing soon. The Samsung forum (both us and eu) are filled with posts about the same problem:
External sources (cable/sat/fios box, Roku, Xbox, etc.) using DD or higher audio, connected to the Q90R - and the TV connected (ARC) to a Q90/80/70R soundbar...also Sonos Beam (ARD), Sonos Playbar (optical), and other soundbars - you get a severe lip-sync problem.


I have the Q90R TV and Q80R soundbar. I have NOT seen many people on this thread reporting this lip-sync problem. If you have a similar connection setup, with external (DD, etc.) sources connected to your tv and the tv connected to a soundbar, and you're NOT experiencing this problem, please let me know. That would tell me that it's not an issue with ALL Q90R's.


Thanks for your help.
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post #6990 of 7456 Old 12-07-2019, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jofus222 View Post
Yes this happens to me. It’s very distracting.

I also have problems with HDR content with blooming. If there is a bright spot on the screen and the scene quickly changes to something else, it take a full second for the bright area to darken.
Did you ever find a solution? I came back after turning the TV off and it seemed fine for a while. I will try watching a few episodes to make sure it doesn't return. If I can solve the glitch by restarting the TV that's better than nothing, but still annoying.

As far as bloom goes, a previous poster solved that for me by recommending using Movie mode with High local dimming, or at most Medium local dimming when in Standard mode. Apparently Standard mode has a bug or something where local dimming is too strong, which causes a lot of blooming issues.

However, no amount of settings will make it have zero blooming of course. It's still a FALD LCD, not an OLED.

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