Having tons of issues with Calman as usual, took me 4 hours just to get through a 2.2 and bt1886 Autocal. If you use Calman with this TV, don't attempt a rolling calibration, it will take 45 minutes and will go all crazy for the last 15 minutes and your zig zig calibration will be like 3.0dE.
I did confirm that the 2 point settings are PER SOURCE, so I would highly recommend performing a very basic 2 point 2.2 calibration at max brightness, because max brightness changes (color shift) the RGB alignment. That basic max bright 2.2 SDR 2 point would then form the base for all other calibrations you do, so you would then throw a 20 point at a 2.2 or bt.1886, but that 2 point will be forced into each source on all picture modes.
Blooming is basically the same as my X900F, it's there, it's obvious, just as annoying as ever. Peak HDR brightness for me after full calibration is now only 90nit brighter than my X900F, but the tone mapping on the new TV is much much much better. In my Forza game with a HDR slider, my X900F was able to tone map up to 1300 per the game slider. The X950H can tone map between 4000-7000 depending on if I select contrast at 90 or 83.
The very very severe input lag is on every mode except the game graphics and I think photo modes. In addition, any mode that is not game graphics or photo will show blurry rainbow text on a PC screen, regarless if you are using RGB full or limited or whatever...it basically forces the image to appear to be 4:2:0 and introduces the severe input lag. I don't know why it does this, my X900F with old slow processor showed clear text in all modes in RGB, and since my TV is hooked up to an HTPC, this is an annoyance I will have to suffer with or the duration of my ownership of this TV...ugh.
On the plus side, the TV reports itself to my graphics card with a 1080p 119Hz and 120Hz options in control panel, no having to force or make custom resolutions.
On the down side, both my Netflix app and Amazon Prime app are unusable, as they have glitching which causes the audio to cut out and stutter...YouTube works with full HDR triggering, and playing back an 8K 60p demo resulted in buttery smooth audio and video, with a nerd stat of like 100Mbps+, so I know the issue with Netflix and Amazon is not a bandwidth or buffering issue. And by unusable, i mean I have a Sony UHD with the apps that has no problems, and I am not going to sit through an hour long show with the audio cutting out every 10-15 seconds.
Lastly, Dolby Vision Dark vs Dolby Vision Bright...if you increase gamma +2 in Dolby Vision Dark, and toggle between Dolby Vision Bright, you will see that the +2 gamma is the absolute only difference between the two picture modes. There is a third Dolby Vision mode called Vivid. It appears to be Dolby Vision Bright with a bunch of settings maxed out to entertain people who look at HDR demo TV's in stores. If you turn off all the other features, it will look exactly like DV Bright. With three Dolby Vision profiles on-call, you can basically adjust each one for a different level of content brightness.
Last edited by Anderegg; 03-06-2020 at 11:29 PM.