Originally Posted by ckenisell
So, I assume you're referring to the green vertical line? So, if I ever get this, I can just replace the T-con board and be back in business?
Well, there's a lot of things to consider when troubleshooting, from what I've read. First things first, of course, make sure it's not a signal source issue. Also, verify that it shows up over the top of the home screen menu. If the green stripe/line is behind the menu overlay, then you'd assume that the problem was with the signal generation, rather than with the matrixed input to the panel.
In my case, the stripe is transparent, but always visible not matter what input I'm on or whether the menu is up or not. My digging came up with a few ideas:
- Dirty ribbon connectors. I disconnected all four ribbon cables between the T-con board and the panel, wiped the cable ends and blew out the connectors. They looked fine but you never know. There are also the two connectors between the T-con and the HB1 board. I disconnected those and blew them out. This unfortunately didn't fix the issue for me though.
- Bad T-con board. This ended up being my problem. Note that if the stripes are horizontal instead of vertical, then most sources say it isn't the T-con board, it's most likely the panel.
- Tab bond issue on the panel. There's another thread on this board about that problem. It seems to heavily afflict the 46" KDL-46XBR4. If you have an issue with tab bonding on the panel, it's not easy to fix for most TVs and most people would say it is not worth the cost. But for this TV in parrticular, applying pressure to the connection end through a rubber shim seems to be effective. I still can't post URLs yet, so search for a thread titled "Sony KDL-46XBR4 Panel Problem". This issue was unlikely the cause for me and I was only going to troubleshoot this route if the T-con board didn't fix my issue.
It wasn't hard to do any of this, no soldering or anything required, just careful disassembly. I found a service manual online that pointed out the 18 screws I had to undo to get the shell off. You don't have to undo any of the Torx screws, by the way. Just the philips heads. Actually, they may be JIS, not philips. Be careful with the four smaller philips/JIS head screws that hold the T-con heat shield on (or is it an EMI shield? not sure). They're very soft and on mine, they were tight enough that I ended up rounding out the head of one of the screws. I had to grind it off with a Dremel.
Careful with this piece--before removing it you have to swing it up 90 degrees and undo the four ribbon cables at the top, as they pass through this heat shield. Don't just yank it off or you'll damage the ribbon cables and possible the boards at either end. If you remove the aluminum tape that covers the top edge of this heat shield, you'll see what I'm talking about.
Oh, also, before you can remove that heat shield, there is a long plate that you have to remove that covers the upper edge of the panel. You have to remove the four bolts from the top ends of the mounting brackets, along with one more bolt along the top edge of this long plate in order to remove it. Also of course you have to remove the heat sink panel that sits on top of the T-con heat shield, but that will have been obvious.
And since I've gone this far, I might as well mention that you have to also remove the cover over HB1 prior to removing that heat sink panel. Sorry, this was all backwards order, I know.