Official Samsung 71series calibration thread - Page 29 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #841 of 1365 Old 02-23-2008, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studdad View Post

Yeah, I would have tried your settings, but it seems your tv and mine are on different wavelengths. I really think you need different settings for the 1xxx and 2xxx sets. Dont know if it is the actual firmware that makes the difference, or if it is the panel itself, i.e. SQ01 vs. SS01/SS02

That could well be a significant difference. My panel is SS03
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post #842 of 1365 Old 02-23-2008, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clau View Post

I have been using the calibrated D65 settings from the UK HDTV review site, and I have been happy with them. If you have the means to make accurate measurements, you may want to give this a try when you have time:

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/Samsung-LE...D/Settings.php

Of course, YMMV, and every set is different.

I'll give them a test. I assume that this TV is what we call the 71.

I will post the ColorHCFR graphs here. Also I will post the results of my current "best so far" setup.

Studdad thinks the "version" of TV makes a difference (fw and panel). He could be right.

Do you know what TV that was and also what TV do you have (re: fw 10xx vs 20xx. Panel SS01, 2, or 3. I have fw 2002->2004; SS03
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post #843 of 1365 Old 02-23-2008, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

I'll give them a test. I assume that this TV is what we call the 71.

I will post the ColorHCFR graphs here. Also I will post the results of my current "best so far" setup.

Studdad thinks the "version" of TV makes a difference (fw and panel). He could be right.

Do you know what TV that was and also what TV do you have (re: fw 10xx vs 20xx. Panel SS01, 2, or 3. I have fw 2002->2004; SS03

That was for the European version of the '71.

I have the SS03 panel, 4071F, 2002 SW.

CLau
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post #844 of 1365 Old 02-23-2008, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allornothing View Post

KJGarrison, thanks for the new settings, I'll try them out when I'm all alone, the wife and kids scream "leave it alone" when I pick up the remote these days.

I tried them. And although it made the screen look quite grey, it did one thing... For a few of my low bitrate discs, theres the occasional macroblocking (Farouda chip), this did get rid of that for me. (not totally, but almost all of the annoying bits of it)

I took these settings and tried to dial in a little more black, a little less grey, and a tad more color. It could be that your PS3 is kicking the color level up, since it is a gaming console.

Now I gotta print off Clau's settings and give them a run also.
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post #845 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 06:17 AM
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Does anyone whether or not PC mode is generally preferred to be on? What exactly is it doing that makes it "PC mode"? I have used this mode for gaming on other TVs and tends to give a very PC-like sharpness to the picture, more noticable while playing games.

Is PC mode considered incorrect for picture accuracy?

I do not have the TV yet, but a big part of purchase depends on the PC mode and whether or not it gives that sharp look of a PC monitor that PC mode usually gives.
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post #846 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danman2424 View Post

Does anyone whether or not PC mode is generally preferred to be on? What exactly is it doing that makes it "PC mode"? I have used this mode for gaming on other TVs and tends to give a very PC-like sharpness to the picture, more noticable while playing games.

Is PC mode considered incorrect for picture accuracy?

I do not have the TV yet, but a big part of purchase depends on the PC mode and whether or not it gives that sharp look of a PC monitor that PC mode usually gives.

i have the lnt5271 and i use video card that has dvi. i use the dvi to vga connector and connect it to pc input on the tv and i turn on the home theater pc option on the tv i get 1080p and it turns the tv to super dark black and bright white looks awesome it makes a difference in my setup
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post #847 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clau View Post

I have been using the calibrated D65 settings from the UK HDTV review site, and I have been happy with them. If you have the means to make accurate measurements, you may want to give this a try when you have time:

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/Samsung-LE...D/Settings.php

Of course, YMMV, and every set is different.

Attached are the measurements. You can enlarge all the images and read the details.

I find these settings fun to watch, even though they are out of bounds on the color by a good amount.

Five attachments, the rest next post
LL
LL
LL
LL
LL
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post #848 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 12:41 PM
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Clau settings continued.

CLAU Primary and secondary colors graph should have been named CHART, not graph
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post #849 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Clau settings continued.

CLAU Primary and secondary colors graph should have been named CHART, not graph

Thanks for taking the time to do this. I am wondering how much difference there is between sets. I'll try your latest settings and compare.

CLau
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post #850 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 03:37 PM
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anyone have special settings for the academy awards?
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post #851 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lice View Post

anyone have special settings for the academy awards?

Yeah, a different show, lol. J/K, I just don't watch that stuff.

Edit: Ok, on a serious note, try turning on AMP to various levels and see if that gives you more punch. If you do not use Dynamic Contrast, maybe try turning that on and see if you like it.

52" Samsung 750, finally satisfaction
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I have the 5271 with 2004 FW using DirecTV HR20 box. Does anyone else see this problem.... I watched a basketball game this weekend on CBS in HD and the picture was incredible, no complaints. Then I watched another game on ESPN HD (channel 73 - Directv) and it looked horrible. Does anyone get a quality picture when watching ESPN? I am looking for best settings for viewing ESPN HD Basketball Games, etc.

My Directv is set to 1080i with native turned off and using a combination of settings posted on this thread.
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post #853 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studdad View Post

Yeah, a different show, lol. J/K, I just don't watch that stuff.

Edit: Ok, on a serious note, try turning on AMP to various levels and see if that gives you more punch. If you do not use Dynamic Contrast, maybe try turning that on and see if you like it.

haha Hey its us movie lovers superbowl...Dont pee on others parade.

I was wondering why the picture had some pixelation in it... its 720p! Why does abc even bother. I don't get why if the channel is going to take the HD plunge why not make it look the best??
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post #854 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clau View Post

Thanks for taking the time to do this. I am wondering how much difference there is between sets. I'll try your latest settings and compare.

No problem. It's fun.
Here are my latest. I watched the first hour of the awards with yours and then switched to these. In my house and viewing environment (low light) and to my eyes, these looked better... fwiw.

Look at the comments in either of the "data" screens to see the settings.

I'll send the other two images right away.
LL
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post #855 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 08:19 PM
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Here they are:

I have to wait until my wife is finished watching before I can work on this stuff. I was up until 3:30AM last night. Not good.

I need to figure out how to get CR back to 1100-1200 where I had it. Not sure what I did to lose the ~200-300 points, but I think it is related to tilting the TV so the colorimiter rested more firmly against it. Right at the end I noticed a little temporary clouding where the colorimeter was touching. This would of course lighten the black measurement. These exact same settings had CR of around 1150, but I didn't save them. I'm 90% sure the slight pressure on the screen was the cause.

I'm going to try these settings with one variable at a time changed. Going to try Wide Color and then Gamma +1. Of course anything that changes causes the whole grayscale, brightness, and color adjustments to have to be tweaked.

Any ideas for other things to investigate?

Supposedly Sammy tech (pinch hitter) is coming Tuesday to turn on the color sliders in My Color Control. I say pinch hitter because they are sending a tech, just not a certified Samsung LCD knowledgeable tech. This due to the distance to the nearest cert. tech being over 45 miles. If this works and if there is any oomph left in this bad boy, I'll get those green and blue Y (luminance) values up to spec.

Saturation values look decent already (I didn't post those graphics). Green hue is off, as you can see on the CIE chart. I don't think either can be changed, even in Service Mode.
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post #856 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

No problem. It's fun.
Here are my latest. I watched the first hour of the awards with yours and then switched to these. In my house and viewing environment (low light) and to my eyes, these looked better... fwiw.

Look at the comments in either of the "data" screens to see the settings.

I'll send the other two images right away.

Well, I did the opposite. I first watched the Oscars with my settings from the UK site and then with yours. I should tell you that I had to adjust color and tint on the UK settings with the AVS HD-DVD calibration disc and a blue filter. Surprisingly the colors are very similar. John Stewart's face has virtually the same skin-tone in the two settings. It definitely is not a significant difference.

Later when I have time I'll use your settings on the HDMI input where my HD-DVD player is connected to, and adjust color and backlight using the calibration disc. It'll be interesting to see whether your settings give the right colors according to the disc.

CLau
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post #857 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 08:45 PM
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The Samsung LN-T4071F, LN-T4671F, and LN-T5271F have true 5:5 pulldown


Sony now has some competition for those looking for the true 1080P/24 5:5 pulldown feature (multiplies of the original frame). It has now officially been confirmed by a professional review published by Scott Wilkinson at UltimateAVmag.com that the Samsung LN-T4671F offers true 5:5 pulldown.
All 3 Samsung displays use the exact same instruction manual and the specs are exactly the same on each model accept the physical weight and size. The instruction manual has an error in it on page 29 it mentions that if you turn off Auto Motion Plus it also turns off 120HZ. If one reads the instruction manual one would think their display becomes a 60HZ display just like all the other 60HZ Samsung displays. According to the professional review the 120HZ Samsung is always native 120HZ even when Auto Motion is turned off. When auto motion is turned on it may once and a while improve 60HZ video by interpolating each frame but it also causes major artifacts in the picture once and a while. When auto motion is turned off 60HZ is frame doubled to 120HZ without the problem of artifacts at the cost of having a less smooth picture. When Auto Motion is turned off and one is watching a BLU-RAY the set will repeat each 24fps frame until it reaches 120HZ. This Samsung offers true 5:5 pulldown and the image from BLU-RAY will look like 35MM or 70MM film instead a artificial smooth 60HZ video look.






Quote
The LN-T4671F includes a feature called Auto Motion Plus (AMP), which can be set to Low, Medium, or High, or it can be turned off. If it's off, each frame in a 60Hz signal is simply doubled, and each frame in a 24Hz signal is repeated five times. In any event, the set's refresh rate is always 120Hz whether or not AMP is enabled.

Some Positive items from the review

The Samsung 120HZ models will decode 3:2 pulldown from 60HZ material.
Quote
In any case, with a 60Hz signal, the processor is said to determine the original frame rateconverting it back to 24fps using inverse telecine if it encounters 3:2 pulldown..

I really like the menu system, which is much better than the one in Samsung's earlier TVs. The picture controls are now the first things to appear when you press the Menu button, rather than being several layers deep.

All in all, the LN-T4671F is a fine LCD TV. It exhibits exceptional color and detail, the blacks are nice and deep, and the shadow detail is better than most LCDs I've seen

Real-World Performance
Pioneer created a Blu-ray demo disc to show off its Kuro line of plasmas, but that material is great for evaluating all types of displays, especially in terms of black level and shadow detail. The Samsung's blacks were certainly not on par with the Kuros', but no one should expect them to be, especially an LCD with conventional backlighting. Still, they weren't bad by any means, and shadow detail was surprisingly goodthat is, once I had set the TV's brightness and backlight controls correctly. Colors were beautiful, and detail was razor-sharp.

Turning to Pirates of the Caribbean: Curse of the Black Pearl on Blu-ray, the Samsung produced a smooth, natural image with exceptional color and detail. Shadow detail in night scenes was similarly excellent.

Negatives

Quote
The FPD For Professionals Blu-ray test disc provides some excellent clips to evaluate a flat-panel display's motion rendering and other characteristics. Auto Motion Plus did clean up moving objects quite a bit, but it also introduced some serious artifacts in certain types of images.
For example, it sharpened the horizontally scrolling monoscope pattern, but the horizontal and diagonal bursts were full of distortion artifacts. Turning AMP off removed the artifacts, but the motion was a lot blurrier. AMP did improve the horizontally scrolling characters and map as well as the swinging hammock and metronome without problems, but the artifacts are so obvious when they appear that I tended to leave AMP off.
http://ultimateavmag.com/flatpaneldisplays/208sam4671/
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post #858 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clau View Post

Well, I did the opposite. I first watched the Oscars with my settings from the UK site and then with yours. I should tell you that I had to adjust color and tint on the UK settings with the AVS HD-DVD calibration disc and a blue filter. Surprisingly the colors are very similar. John Stewart's face has virtually the same skin-tone in the two settings. It definitely is not a significant difference.

Later when I have time I'll use your settings on the HDMI input where my HD-DVD player is connected to, and adjust color and backlight using the calibration disc. It'll be interesting to see whether your settings give the right colors according to the disc.

You must have used the ones I posted on the ColorHCFR thread. Those were my first try. The ones I posted a few minutes ago are quite different. And to me they look quite a bit better than my originals.

With a blue filter and the AVS HD disc I get quite a range of possibilities.

Using a colorimeter and TomHuffman's recommendations for setting 10% gray Y as .63% (for gamma 2.2) of 100% gray Y in the grayscale, setting 75% red Y at 21% of 75% white Y, using Tint to put the secondary of cyan right on it's dot in real time, and getting x,y as close as possible to 0.313 and 0.329 for each point of the grayscale between 30% and 90% gray, gives me very reporducible results. And when I check with the blue filter and the blinking screens they look good. Trouble is you can't really do a grayscale.

First thing you know it's 3 AM. LOL
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post #859 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTV1080P24 View Post

The Samsung LN-T4071F, LN-T4671F, and LN-T5271F have true 5:5 pulldown


Sony now has some competition for those looking for the true 1080P/24 5:5 pulldown feature (multiplies of the original frame). It has now officially been confirmed by a professional review published by Scott Wilkinson at UltimateAVmag.com that the Samsung LN-T4671F offers true 5:5 pulldown.
All 3 Samsung displays use the exact same instruction manual and the specs are exactly the same on each model accept the physical weight and size. The instruction manual has an error in it on page 29 it mentions that if you turn off Auto Motion Plus it also turns off 120HZ. If one reads the instruction manual one would think their display becomes a 60HZ display just like all the other 60HZ Samsung displays. According to the professional review the 120HZ Samsung is always native 120HZ even when Auto Motion is turned off. When auto motion is turned on it may once and a while improve 60HZ video by interpolating each frame but it also causes major artifacts in the picture once and a while. When auto motion is turned off 60HZ is frame doubled to 120HZ without the problem of artifacts at the cost of having a less smooth picture. When Auto Motion is turned off and one is watching a BLU-RAY the set will repeat each 24fps frame until it reaches 120HZ. This Samsung offers true 5:5 pulldown and the image from BLU-RAY will look like 35MM or 70MM film instead a artificial smooth 60HZ video look.






Quote
The LN-T4671F includes a feature called Auto Motion Plus (AMP), which can be set to Low, Medium, or High, or it can be turned off. If it's off, each frame in a 60Hz signal is simply doubled, and each frame in a 24Hz signal is repeated five times. In any event, the set's refresh rate is always 120Hz whether or not AMP is enabled.

Some Positive items from the review

The Samsung 120HZ models will decode 3:2 pulldown from 60HZ material.
Quote
In any case, with a 60Hz signal, the processor is said to determine the original frame rateconverting it back to 24fps using inverse telecine if it encounters 3:2 pulldown..

I really like the menu system, which is much better than the one in Samsung's earlier TVs. The picture controls are now the first things to appear when you press the Menu button, rather than being several layers deep.

All in all, the LN-T4671F is a fine LCD TV. It exhibits exceptional color and detail, the blacks are nice and deep, and the shadow detail is better than most LCDs I've seen

Real-World Performance
Pioneer created a Blu-ray demo disc to show off its Kuro line of plasmas, but that material is great for evaluating all types of displays, especially in terms of black level and shadow detail. The Samsung's blacks were certainly not on par with the Kuros', but no one should expect them to be, especially an LCD with conventional backlighting. Still, they weren't bad by any means, and shadow detail was surprisingly goodthat is, once I had set the TV's brightness and backlight controls correctly. Colors were beautiful, and detail was razor-sharp.

Turning to Pirates of the Caribbean: Curse of the Black Pearl on Blu-ray, the Samsung produced a smooth, natural image with exceptional color and detail. Shadow detail in night scenes was similarly excellent.

Negatives

Quote
The FPD For Professionals Blu-ray test disc provides some excellent clips to evaluate a flat-panel display's motion rendering and other characteristics. Auto Motion Plus did clean up moving objects quite a bit, but it also introduced some serious artifacts in certain types of images.
For example, it sharpened the horizontally scrolling monoscope pattern, but the horizontal and diagonal bursts were full of distortion artifacts. Turning AMP off removed the artifacts, but the motion was a lot blurrier. AMP did improve the horizontally scrolling characters and map as well as the swinging hammock and metronome without problems, but the artifacts are so obvious when they appear that I tended to leave AMP off.
http://ultimateavmag.com/flatpaneldisplays/208sam4671/

Wow! Thanks for the post.

Some interesting settings to test, too.
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post #860 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTV1080P24 View Post

The Samsung LN-T4071F, LN-T4671F, and LN-T5271F have true 5:5 pulldown


Sony now has some competition for those looking for the true 1080P/24 5:5 pulldown feature (multiplies of the original frame). It has now officially been confirmed by a professional review published by Scott Wilkinson at UltimateAVmag.com that the Samsung LN-T4671F offers true 5:5 pulldown.
All 3 Samsung displays use the exact same instruction manual and the specs are exactly the same on each model accept the physical weight and size. The instruction manual has an error in it on page 29 it mentions that if you turn off Auto Motion Plus it also turns off 120HZ. If one reads the instruction manual one would think their display becomes a 60HZ display just like all the other 60HZ Samsung displays. According to the professional review the 120HZ Samsung is always native 120HZ even when Auto Motion is turned off. When auto motion is turned on it may once and a while improve 60HZ video by interpolating each frame but it also causes major artifacts in the picture once and a while. When auto motion is turned off 60HZ is frame doubled to 120HZ without the problem of artifacts at the cost of having a less smooth picture. When Auto Motion is turned off and one is watching a BLU-RAY the set will repeat each 24fps frame until it reaches 120HZ. This Samsung offers true 5:5 pulldown and the image from BLU-RAY will look like 35MM or 70MM film instead a artificial smooth 60HZ video look.






Quote
The LN-T4671F includes a feature called Auto Motion Plus (AMP), which can be set to Low, Medium, or High, or it can be turned off. If it's off, each frame in a 60Hz signal is simply doubled, and each frame in a 24Hz signal is repeated five times. In any event, the set's refresh rate is always 120Hz whether or not AMP is enabled.

Some Positive items from the review

The Samsung 120HZ models will decode 3:2 pulldown from 60HZ material.
Quote
In any case, with a 60Hz signal, the processor is said to determine the original frame rateconverting it back to 24fps using inverse telecine if it encounters 3:2 pulldown..

I really like the menu system, which is much better than the one in Samsung's earlier TVs. The picture controls are now the first things to appear when you press the Menu button, rather than being several layers deep.

All in all, the LN-T4671F is a fine LCD TV. It exhibits exceptional color and detail, the blacks are nice and deep, and the shadow detail is better than most LCDs I've seen

Real-World Performance
Pioneer created a Blu-ray demo disc to show off its Kuro line of plasmas, but that material is great for evaluating all types of displays, especially in terms of black level and shadow detail. The Samsung's blacks were certainly not on par with the Kuros', but no one should expect them to be, especially an LCD with conventional backlighting. Still, they weren't bad by any means, and shadow detail was surprisingly goodthat is, once I had set the TV's brightness and backlight controls correctly. Colors were beautiful, and detail was razor-sharp.

Turning to Pirates of the Caribbean: Curse of the Black Pearl on Blu-ray, the Samsung produced a smooth, natural image with exceptional color and detail. Shadow detail in night scenes was similarly excellent.

Negatives

Quote
The FPD For Professionals Blu-ray test disc provides some excellent clips to evaluate a flat-panel display's motion rendering and other characteristics. Auto Motion Plus did clean up moving objects quite a bit, but it also introduced some serious artifacts in certain types of images.
For example, it sharpened the horizontally scrolling monoscope pattern, but the horizontal and diagonal bursts were full of distortion artifacts. Turning AMP off removed the artifacts, but the motion was a lot blurrier. AMP did improve the horizontally scrolling characters and map as well as the swinging hammock and metronome without problems, but the artifacts are so obvious when they appear that I tended to leave AMP off.
http://ultimateavmag.com/flatpaneldisplays/208sam4671/

My question is how did the reviewer come up with that info? Did he guess, or was it from a reputable source? Did he try to prove it himself?

That review is not confidence inspiring, IMO.

CLau
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post #861 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

You must have used the ones I posted on the ColorHCFR thread. Those were my first try. The ones I posted a few minutes ago are quite different. And to me they look quite a bit better than my originals.

With a blue filter and the AVS HD disc I get quite a range of possibilities.

Using a colorimeter and TomHuffman's recommendations for setting 10% gray Y as .63% (for gamma 2.2) of 100% gray Y in the grayscale, setting 75% red Y at 21% of 75% white Y, using Tint to put the secondary of cyan right on it's dot in real time, and getting x,y as close as possible to 0.313 and 0.329 for each point of the grayscale between 30% and 90% gray, gives me very reporducible results. And when I check with the blue filter and the blinking screens they look good. Trouble is you can't really do a grayscale.

Edit: Sorry, I see that the settings are in the jpeg files you attached. Thanks.

First thing you know it's 3 AM. LOL

I don't see any settings posted by you in the last day or so. Care to provide a link to your latest settings?

Edit: Sorry, I see that the settings are in the jpeg files you attached. Thanks.

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post #862 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

You must have used the ones I posted on the ColorHCFR thread. Those were my first try. The ones I posted a few minutes ago are quite different. And to me they look quite a bit better than my originals.

With a blue filter and the AVS HD disc I get quite a range of possibilities.

Using a colorimeter and TomHuffman's recommendations for setting 10% gray Y as .63% (for gamma 2.2) of 100% gray Y in the grayscale, setting 75% red Y at 21% of 75% white Y, using Tint to put the secondary of cyan right on it's dot in real time, and getting x,y as close as possible to 0.313 and 0.329 for each point of the grayscale between 30% and 90% gray, gives me very reporducible results. And when I check with the blue filter and the blinking screens they look good. Trouble is you can't really do a grayscale.

First thing you know it's 3 AM. LOL


i'll give them a try when i get back. it's curious that you keep complaining about still too low blue on the upper end, since when I tried the last set of yours on my set things seemed too blue tinted to me at the top. Also weird that your colorimeter says you have too low a color temp at the top end while mine had said too high there! Either our sets are at extremes of tolerances or one of our calibration devices might be off or something. Or maybe these new ones are THAT much different from teh old ones (not that they looked too bad, since most photos actually looked reasonably the same as with my calibrations, not that those were perfect). Or maybe that PS3 puts out quite a different signal than my nvidia card. You never know with consoles (or with nvidia ).

i'll post my current ones when I get back again. Curious to see what your colorimeter and test disc would say about mine.

If you are struggling for more blue on your set maybe try a normal instead of warm starting point or try renaming port as PC (in this case, it seems hard to get enough red, at least to me and green seems awfukly powerful).

I noticed the new series due out appears to have a much better color control set. They got rid of that dumb My Colors things and have a CMS instead to adjust the 3 primaries and 3 secodaries.

Also weird that the one primary that was off according to UltAV is green and that's the one that someone said cant be adjusted on the set at all.
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post #863 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clau View Post

My question is how did the reviewer come up with that info? Did he guess, or was it from a reputable source? Did he try to prove it himself?

That review is not confidence inspiring, IMO.

Those are some good questions. Ultimate AV reviews come from a mixture of internal tests and direct contact with the engineers of the product they are reviewing. They do not always mention how they come up with the information. Reading the review I do see that Samsung informed them about how the Auto Motion Plus works when turned on.
Quote
If AMP is on, the set interpolates between actual frames; according to Samsung,..
http://ultimateavmag.com/flatpaneldisplays/208sam4671/
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post #864 of 1365 Old 02-24-2008, 11:04 PM
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Thanks for the info.
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post #865 of 1365 Old 02-25-2008, 01:10 AM
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Here are the settings used in that ultimate av mag review. I don't think it's disclosed anywhere which fw the set has installed.

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/flatpan...71/index7.html

Samsung LN-T4671F LCD TV:

Settings
Keep in mind that unit-to-unit variations, viewing environment, source, and screen (in the case of front projectors) might render the settings I used less than optimum on some samples of this display. If you try these settings, I strongly recommend that you do so as a starting point, following up with one of the several display-setup DVDs on the market to make certain that the basic picture settings are correct for your situation. Confirmation of the grayscale settings requires a full professional calibration.

Picture Menu
Mode Movie
Contrast 98
Brightness 48
Sharpness 20
Color 48
Tint G52/R48
Backlight 2
Color Tone Warm2
Size Just Scan
Digital NR Low
Auto Motion Plus Off
Detailed Settings
Black Adjust Off
Dynamic Contrast Off
Gamma 3
Color Space Auto
My Color Control All 15 (centered)
White Balance
R Offset 12
G Offset 10
B Offset 12
R Gain 21
G Gain 18
B Gain 9
Edge Enhancement Off
xvYCC Off

Contrast & Resolution
Peak white level
Full screen 38.8fL
100 IRE window 39.2fL
Black level 0.019fL
Peak contrast ratio 2063:1
Overscan (Size = Just Scale)
480i/p 3.5%
720p 1.5%
1080i/p 0%
Horizontal bandwidth at 1080i
HDMI/DVI 37MHz
Component 37MHz

The high-frequency burst looked softer via component than HDMI.

LN-T4671F - FW: 2003.2
DV-980H - FW: 0B-0903
6620NP - FW: 2.10
N081URAY-Y37 - FW: 0.0
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post #866 of 1365 Old 02-25-2008, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum5000 View Post

i'll give them a try when i get back. it's curious that you keep complaining about still too low blue on the upper end, since when I tried the last set of yours on my set things seemed too blue tinted to me at the top. Also weird that your colorimeter says you have too low a color temp at the top end while mine had said too high there! Either our sets are at extremes of tolerances or one of our calibration devices might be off or something. Or maybe these new ones are THAT much different from teh old ones (not that they looked too bad, since most photos actually looked reasonably the same as with my calibrations, not that those were perfect). Or maybe that PS3 puts out quite a different signal than my nvidia card. You never know with consoles (or with nvidia ).

i'll post my current ones when I get back again. Curious to see what your colorimeter and test disc would say about mine.

If you are struggling for more blue on your set maybe try a normal instead of warm starting point or try renaming port as PC (in this case, it seems hard to get enough red, at least to me and green seems awfukly powerful).

I noticed the new series due out appears to have a much better color control set. They got rid of that dumb My Colors things and have a CMS instead to adjust the 3 primaries and 3 secodaries.

Also weird that the one primary that was off according to UltAV is green and that's the one that someone said cant be adjusted on the set at all.

I didn't realize my statements sounded like complaining. I am merely pointing out that the Y values (luminance/brightness) of blue and green are low in comparison to red when red, as TomHuffman recommends doing, is used to adjust Color. Color adjustment is a color brightness control for all colors. You COULD use the Color control to set any color's Y to spec, but if you used blue, then red would be off and so would green. I think the reasons TomHuffman recommends starting with red is that it's Y value is in between green and blue, and blue errors are not as problematic to the eye as is red and green. I actually tested using blue and the results were not good.

Post your settings and I'll test them, but I have heard that PC settings and BR settings are very different. I am not really familiar with PC settings, colorspaces, or for that matter even what test patterns to use in calibration of a PC source. Heck, I only know a little bit about BR!

Like I said, I only know a little, but I think using normal or cool shifts relative saturation of colors, not luminance. If this is wrong, I hope somebody corrects me. And yes, between cool, normal, warm1&2, and the WHITE setting in My Color Control a lot of adjustments can be made to overcome saturation issus, I think.

The problem with green is that this is a hue issue. To my knowledge none of the colors' hue can be adjusted. Green just happens to be the most "off".

If the new Sammys have a full featured CMS it will mean that luminance, saturation, and hue can be adjusted for all primary and secondary colors. Apparently VERY few TVs have a full CMS.

Tomorrow a Sammy tech is going to enable the color sliders in My Color Control, and at least then I can adjust the luminance of pink(!), green, blue, and (?)white. Then I can stop complaining about it
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post #867 of 1365 Old 02-25-2008, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dEEahn20 View Post

Here are the settings used in that ultimate av mag review. I don't think it's disclosed anywhere which fw the set has installed.

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/flatpan...71/index7.html

Samsung LN-T4671F LCD TV:

Settings
Keep in mind that unit-to-unit variations, viewing environment, source, and screen (in the case of front projectors) might render the settings I used less than optimum on some samples of this display. If you try these settings, I strongly recommend that you do so as a starting point, following up with one of the several display-setup DVDs on the market to make certain that the basic picture settings are correct for your situation. Confirmation of the grayscale settings requires a full professional calibration.

Picture Menu
Mode Movie
Contrast 98
Brightness 48
Sharpness 20
Color 48
Tint G52/R48
Backlight 2
Color Tone Warm2
Size Just Scan
Digital NR Low
Auto Motion Plus Off
Detailed Settings
Black Adjust Off
Dynamic Contrast Off
Gamma 3
Color Space Auto
My Color Control All 15 (centered)
White Balance
R Offset 12
G Offset 10
B Offset 12
R Gain 21
G Gain 18
B Gain 9
Edge Enhancement Off
xvYCC Off

Contrast & Resolution
Peak white level
Full screen 38.8fL
100 IRE window 39.2fL
Black level 0.019fL
Peak contrast ratio 2063:1
Overscan (Size = Just Scale)
480i/p 3.5%
720p 1.5%
1080i/p 0%
Horizontal bandwidth at 1080i
HDMI/DVI 37MHz
Component 37MHz

The high-frequency burst looked softer via component than HDMI.

I put these into my component input from my DirecTV (I have both HDMI and component hooked up from the D*). I did A/B testing looking at the academy awards show, and I must say these settings looked very good. I'm very interested in taking the measurements. The biggest thing I see is the +3 gamma setting. And I was just at the point of my learning that I was going to experiment with gamma settings. If this tests out, it could save me a lot of sleep!
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post #868 of 1365 Old 02-25-2008, 02:42 PM
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I have owned my 4071 since december,well i still dont have blu ray or an hd satellite receiver from dish network,i use the regular receiver for now with no hd programming,plugged in through coaxial cable,well anyways i wanted to know how come my picture looks worse then on a regular tv it has like a little blur to it,and on a sdtv it looks better then on my 4071,is it because i dont have te hd receiver yet? and also i dont have a blu ray player/ps3 yet,but what i was wondering does playing a regular dvd through my xbox 360 plugged in with hdmi make my regular dvd's look and sound a bit better?

edit: i accidentaly posted this here wrong spot,i thought this was in the owners thread lol i had to many tabs open,but if someone here can help that would be cool.

TV: Samsung LNT-4171f 

Home Theater System:  Sony BDVn 790W 5.1 

PS4,Xb1,WiiU

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post #869 of 1365 Old 02-25-2008, 06:23 PM
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just an FYI for anyone who futzed there setting by hitting the calibration button in the service menu. If you have not upgraded firmware yet, upgrading the firmware appears to reset the settings in the service menu. I know some may still not want to upgrade, I posted the service manual some pages ago and the only default settings in the manual are for the RF input, I set my settings to these after screwing up hitting the calibration button without a pattern on the screen. It was ok enough that my wife didnt notice a difference but something still wasnt right in my eyes. After 3 weeks i decided tonight and said to hell with it, and upgraded the firmware. Now the settings are all changed, I am asuming back to factory or factory according to the 2004 firmware.
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post #870 of 1365 Old 02-25-2008, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prestiege View Post

just an FYI for anyone who futzed there setting by hitting the calibration button in the service menu. If you have not upgraded firmware yet, upgrading the firmware appears to reset the settings in the service menu. I know some may still not want to upgrade, I posted the service manual some pages ago and the only default settings in the manual are for the RF input, I set my settings to these after screwing up hitting the calibration button without a pattern on the screen. It was ok enough that my wife didnt notice a difference but something still wasnt right in my eyes. After 3 weeks i decided tonight and said to hell with it, and upgraded the firmware. Now the settings are all changed, I am asuming back to factory or factory according to the 2004 firmware.

Thanks. That's good to know.

That particular button (calibration) is the scariest thing in the SM.

So, even if you DO a calibration with the proper pattern, you lose it if you upgrade fw. Maybe there isn't so much variability between sets after all.
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