AVS Forum banner

The Official Pioneer 9G Elite KURO Owner's Discussion Thread

3M views 32K replies 2K participants last post by  smsiwan 
#1 ·
 Pioneer 111FD and 151FD Owner's Manual

111FD Product Brochure

151FD Product Brochure

The Official Pioneer 9G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread

The Official 9G Pioneer General Discussion Thread


9G Elite Reviews

D-Nice's Review of the Pro-111FD

Sound and Vision's Review of the Pro-111FD

Ultimate AV's review of the Pro-111FD

CNet's review of the Pro-111FD



It seems I'm the first to get the PRO-151FD in this forum so I figured I'd start the Thread.


First impressions:


Can notice blacker blacks over 5010. It's hard to tell were the bezel ends with the black bars.


Initial start up is set to performance mode.


While in the menu. Very slight buzz when you put your head behind the set. Can't hear it in front at all. Haven't try TV or video yet but I will before I start break-in.


Update regarding buzz:

While running the break-in disc, I do hear a buzz which does change pitch from dark to light screens, light screens higher pitch, but I have to be 2 to 3 feet from the front to hear it and it's the same as my 5010. My DVR box is louder then the buzz.


Not the brightest backlite remote I've seen. It's a little hard to see if the room is very dark.


I like the menus better then the 5010. I didn't care for the windows xp-ish menus in the 5010.


It has a great tool menu that comes up from the bottom during viewing which you can change settings like picture mode and screen size. Here's the post of the picture. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...4&postcount=10




PRO-111FD/151FD Specs:


- High-Definition 1080p Resolution (1920 x 1080p)


- 50”/60" Diagonal Class / 16:9 Wide-Screen Aspect Ratio


- 1080 Progressive Image Reproduction with ability to accept 480i / 480p / 720p / 1080i / and TRUE 1080p 24fps signals


- New Deeper, Intense Blacks for Unmatched Contrast (5x Previous Generation)


- New Thinner Cosmetic Design with ››Elegant Acrylic Bezel


- New, Improved Optimum Mode. Automatically analyses and adjusts audio and video settings according to specific room light conditions and type of light and color. Program content is also monitored and finely adjusted so movies, sports and news are all faithfully reproduced. Includes OSD with status.


- New External Color Sensor


- Room Light Sensor for automatic picture adjustment adjustment


- PureCinema Smooth Film Motion mode to eliminate motion jutter in 3:2 Pulldown (60Hz) providing natural even playback of content created on film


- 4 Independent HDMI 1.3 inputs with HDMI-CEC control and the ability ››to accept 1080p 24/60Hz signal


- Standard 3:2 (60Hz) and Advanced PureCinema with 3:3 Pulldown (72Hz) for accurate playback of film content


- Fully integrated ATSC and NTSC Tuner with Clear QAM


- Home Media Gallery – offering a multimedia experience to enjoy movies, music and photos through an existing home network or USB memory device


- ISFccc Calibration Ready for professional customization of plasma picture according to personal preferences for contrast, tint, color as well as room conditions for both day and nighttime viewing. Includes:

- Independent Gamma Control (R / G / B) for heightened color ––calibration


- V-Chip Parental Control


- Remote Control – Illuminated / Preset Mode / Learning Mode


- New Advanced Redesigned GUI


- A/V Selection Memory – 10 options for viewing preferences: Optimum / Performance / Sports / Movie / PURE / Game / Standard*/ ISF-Day / ISF-Night / ISF-Auto (PC input: only Standard)


- Aspect Ratio Control – 9 positions: Auto* / Full / “Dot by Dot” / Zoom* / Cinema* / 4:3 / Wide* (only for SD) / Wide1* (only for HD) / Wide2* (only for HD) *Except PC signal


- Advanced Picture-in-Picture (4 positions), Picture-side-Picture for use with Home Media Gallery & Broadcast and Still Picture capability


- After-Image Reduction Function

- Orbiter (Off / Mode 1 / Mode 2)

- Auto Size (Off/ Natural / Wide-Zoom)

- Side Mask Detection (Mode 1 – for black side masks / Mode 2 – for black & illustrated side masks)

- Side Mask Brightness Sync (Fixed / Auto)

- Video Pattern (White Bar)

- Game Control Preference (AV Selection: only Game) (Off / On)


- Fine Tune Setting for ultimate picture control of color temperature, noise reduction and color management


- Intelligent Mode (Off / Mode 1 / Mode 2)


- Room Light Sensor & New External Color Sensor (Off / Mode 1 / Mode 2)
 
See less See more
#32,181 ·
When you look at the red tint thread 19.28% of KRP 500M/600M owners state that they have red tint. Posters claim that ultimately every KRP will get red tint at some point. btw my 500M is beyond 20,000 hours and has no red tint yet.
must be the only one then
 
  • Like
Reactions: makaveddie81
#32,182 · (Edited)
must be the only one then
Just look at the 2011 red tint poll...it states less than 20% of KRP owners see red tint. Must be crazy all those people who do not see red tint:rolleyes:

My TV is pro-calibrated. I only watch clean source content in a dark room, sit rather close also. No red colored hint whatsoever. If it is there i do not see it so what should i care.
 
#32,183 ·
When you look at the red tint thread 19.28% of KRP 500M/600M owners state that they have red tint. Posters claim that ultimately every KRP will get red tint at some point. btw my 500M is beyond 20,000 hours and has no red tint yet.
I've had experience with plenty of Kuros and I can tell you they will all get it eventually. I'd be surprised if I saw a non reset / non tweaked Kuro with zero red tint at this point in time. A lot of times the owners either don't realize their sets have the red tint because they got used to it (it happens very slowly) or they don't watch it under the specific conditions where the red tint becomes obvious (dark room, dark content). Not saying this is the case with you, just what I've experienced.
 
  • Like
Reactions: craigyboy
#32,184 ·
Just look at the 2011 red tint poll...it states less than 20% of KRP owners see red tint. Must be crazy all those people who do not see red tint:rolleyes:

My TV is pro-calibrated. I only watch clean source content in a dark room, sit rather close also. No red colored hint whatsoever. If it is there i do not see it so what should i care.
How old is that poll though? Perhaps the red tint hadn't reared its ugly head on the sets of the "no red tint" voters? Maybe those that eventually got red tint sold their sets and didn't bother to update their vote?
 
#32,185 ·
I've had experience with plenty of Kuros and I can tell you they will all get it eventually. I'd be surprised if I saw a non reset / non tweaked Kuro with zero red tint at this point in time. A lot of times the owners either don't realize their sets have the red tint because they got used to it (it happens very slowly) or they don't watch it under the specific conditions where the red tint becomes obvious (dark room, dark content). Not saying this is the case with you, just what I've experienced.
I am shurely willing to believe that they all get it at some point. What i want to know is most optimistic case at what hours red tint starts to appear.
 
#32,186 ·
I am shurely willing to believe that they all get it at some point. What i want to know is most optimistic case at what hours red tint starts to appear.
That i don't know, but the hour mark at which it happens varies. On sets that have had their pulse meter reset to mitigate the red tint, it comes back after around 2000 hours of post reset usage. I've found this to be pretty constant. Makes sense since the pulse meter reset is only holding it at bay temporarily.
 
#32,187 ·
Not sure about the red tint issue but I had the red sparkling dots against a white background. This was 2+ years ago. I had a local Pioneer vendor replace all the boards and the TV was professionally calibrated by Gregg Loewen (207.624.2685, www.lionav.com, gregg@lionav.com). 2 years later and the TV still looks amazing. It is not the primary TV anymore but it was the primary and on 8-14 hours a day for about 8-9 years.
 
#32,188 ·
Anyone give me a hand whats going on with my 9g kuro 151.
Purchased it new in 2010 and had it cal by DNice in 2012.

In the last 6 months after watching for a while the picture will dramatically dim. The only way i get the brightness to normal is to turn off the set then it goes back to normal. Same thing will happen again..

Is the set repairable ?
 
#32,189 ·
Sadly, due to the red tint defect, the Kuro did not age well. Yes it can be mitigated in the 50 inch sets, but it's a death sentence for 60 inch sets.

People moved on to either OLED or FALD LCD for a screen size upgrade or due to the red tint.
Incorrect about 60".
 
#32,190 · (Edited)
These days, I wouldn't call it the deal of the century. Just a fair deal. Given that one can buy a new OLED for $1,000 or a bit more, $100 seems fair for a 12 year old Kuro. Guess I'm not one of the folks who believes Plasma technology superior to OLED. I know there are a few who do.

The lack of interest in plasma is evinced by the lack of traffic in these threads. Seems like a virtual ghost town these days.
Well it is superior. OLED is more like LCD than plasma. No other tv has the liquid smooth organic life like image that plasmas have.


Plasma threads having less activity now isn't that surprising nor is it because of lack of interest. They aren't made anymore and the majority would rather buy new things.

Yet here we are in 2020. Posting in a pioneer kuro thread.
 
#32,191 ·
Well it is superior. OLED is more like LCD than plasma. No other tv has the liquid smooth organic life like image that plasmas have.


Plasma threads having less activity now isn't surprising or because of lack of interest. They aren't made anymore and the majority would rather buy new things.

Yet here we are in 2020. Posting in a pioneer kuro thread.
Some people feel that way. As far as I can tell, all the expert reviewers disagree. And the OLEDs keep improving their motion resolution. Incrementally from year to year but it adds up. No one questions that OLED blacks are darker and the colors more vibrant. There have been questions as to whether those screens will last as long. Pretty amazing that so many really ancient plasmas are still going strong.
 
#32,193 ·
Some people feel that way. As far as I can tell, all the expert reviewers disagree. And the OLEDs keep improving their motion resolution. Incrementally from year to year but it adds up. No one questions that OLED blacks are darker and the colors more vibrant. There have been questions as to whether those screens will last as long. Pretty amazing that so many really ancient plasmas are still going strong.
OLED is a great display. Just not better than plasma. What improvements to motion resolution? It's still stuck at LCD level of 600 unless you use SOE.


Vibrant HDR colors yes, plasma true RGB color still has a more realistic quality to it. Not only me saying this.
 
  • Like
Reactions: hifi59
#32,194 ·
How exactly do you fix red tint on a 60 inch set without ending up with green sparkles near black, magenta lag or a messed up lower end grayscale?
I'm way way way low on voltage adjustments and have no misfire, black lag, sparkles, magenta anything. If some artifact does show up, it's so slight and temporary it doesn't even matter.


Kuro with those issues must be summer 2008 models.


Oh. 60" kuros that can't go low on voltages should try leaving rstp at 18 then. That should allow you to go beyond recommended settings.
 
#32,195 ·
I'm way way way low on voltage adjustments and have no misfire, black lag, sparkles, magenta anything. If some artifact does show up, it's so slight and temporary it doesn't even matter.


Kuro with those issues must be summer 2008 models.


Oh. 60" kuros that can't go low on voltages should try leaving rstp at 18 then. That should allow you to go beyond recommended settings.
I've had three 2008 60 inch sets that all developed red tint. With everything at default, the most I could lower SAD was around 20 ticks. Anything beyond that would cause magenta lag. Tried every combination imaginable including offsetting any reduction to SAD by raising RSTP and vice versa.

I tested pulse meter reset on all three of them using the safe method that allows you to back out of it (except on one set I did commit to the reset). At first sight, the black level was superb and inky. However, the short lived bliss was shot down by obvious and terrible artifacts including magenta lag (think 50 inch black rain/lag but with magenta pixels) and white sparkles near black.

No amount of fidgeting would clear these issues. Clearing one issue would make the other worse and there was no good middle ground. The best "solution" was to keep everything stock, lower RSTP to 1 (to keep red tint at bay) and raise SAD by like 100 ticks to clear the magenta lag, which would cause horrible sparkles near black. To "clear" those (more like hide them), I had to lower S1 to 1, which gives mucks up low end gray scale and contaminates it with red and green.

Over time (1000 hours of use) I was able to raise S1 close to its default value with minor sparkles near black, but at that point, the red tint's return was just around the corner.
 
#32,196 ·
Not only me saying this.

It's not only you. But it is a small minority. The vast majority, including the vast majority of videophiles, have gone all in on OLED and consider it superior. I'm not God and I'm not here to tell anyone what they ought to believe. That's way above my pay grade. I have a Kuro 6020, which is a wonderful set, and I plan to purchase a 55 inch LG CX when it comes on sale for Black Friday. Once I have both, I'll form my own opinion. Even then, I won't try to convince anyone that I'm right. Could very well be that something so subjective is just inherently in the eye of the beholder.
 
#32,197 · (Edited)
I've had three 2008 60 inch sets that all developed red tint. With everything at default, the most I could lower SAD was around 20 ticks. Anything beyond that would cause magenta lag. Tried every combination imaginable including offsetting any reduction to SAD by raising RSTP and vice versa.

I tested pulse meter reset on all three of them using the safe method that allows you to back out of it (except on one set I did commit to the reset). At first sight, the black level was superb and inky. However, the short lived bliss was shot down by obvious and terrible artifacts including magenta lag (think 50 inch black rain/lag but with magenta pixels) and white sparkles near black.

No amount of fidgeting would clear these issues. Clearing one issue would make the other worse and there was no good middle ground. The best "solution" was to keep everything stock, lower RSTP to 1 (to keep red tint at bay) and raise SAD by like 100 ticks to clear the magenta lag, which would cause horrible sparkles near black. To "clear" those (more like hide them), I had to lower S1 to 1, which gives mucks up low end gray scale and contaminates it with red and green.

Over time (1000 hours of use) I was able to raise S1 close to its default value with minor sparkles near black, but at that point, the red tint's return was just around the corner.
My 2009 151 doesn't get anything that severe. When i first tried lowering voltages beyond 20 levels i would see misfires yes, but it was nothing too bad. Only really saw it on a full black screen. After awhile for some reason it didn't happen anymore. Maybe because more hours got on the panel. But you said your kuros get artifacts no matter what. So maybe it does have something to do with the later 2009 builds being made in a different factory. The most affect i've seen is magenta artifacts when content black level is higher than black. Which is not correct anyway. On proper mastered content with correct black levels, no magenta is there at all. But to fix it all i had to do was raise rstp.

By now to even see a hint of any artifacts i have to put RSTP to 1 and lower SAD past 30 or more levels. And that's easily fixable by raising RSTP.

I haven't tried a reset and i have no plans to.
 
#32,199 · (Edited)
  • Like
Reactions: makaveddie81
#32,200 ·
Top