The Official Pioneer 9G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 373 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11161 of 11214 Old 01-18-2018, 12:32 PM
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Hey, I have both a Pro-111FD and a 5010.
I was wondering if there's any way (via service menu or otherwise) to turn up the Sharpness in PC Mode?
PC Mode is the only mode I can get my gamma to properly calibrate on http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gamma_calibration.php and http://www.photoscientia.co.uk/2point2.htm
Also PC Mode just looks right right out of the box, to my eyes. But it's too soft.

If I could make Pure mode look like PC Mode, then it wouldn't be an issue I guess, but I can't seem to find a way to make these Gamma pages work properly on it.
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post #11162 of 11214 Old 03-03-2018, 06:33 PM
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Quick question for Kuro veterans here. Tried searching but to no avail. Is there a way to adjust the 'tilt' of the image on the Kuros? I'm hoping that's the correct term here. I have the Kuro 500M and I see that it has the options 'Horizontal Shift' and 'Vertical Shift' which allow me to move the entire image left/right and up/down, respectively, but I do not see an option to adjust the tilt angle. The image on screen is not perfectly level. I don't know if it was like this back when I bought the display years ago but now that I've noticed it, it's started to bug me a bit. Anything I can do?

Is this something that could have happened by the TV being jostled, perhaps when being moved? I remember this happening with my old CRT displays when the electron gun (or w/e the name is for it) became misaligned after moving it down some stairs, but I didn't think that could happen on a digital display like a plasma.

Any help here would be greatly appreciated.
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post #11163 of 11214 Old 05-19-2018, 08:20 AM
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KRP-500M making popping or crackling noises

I've owned my KRP 500M since 2010 (bought new) and haven't had a single problem with it. Last night before bed when switching inputs, I began to hear what I can only describe as popping or crackling sounds coming from the back panel. At first I actually thought it sounded like some kind of fly or something with wings somehow got caught back there and was buzzing around. But no, I powered the TV off and the noises stopped. Turned it back on and they resumed. It's pretty constant no matter what is displayed on the screen. It'll stop for a minute or so and then start again.

In addition to the popping/crackling, I can also hear a louder than normal buzzing noise coming from the rear of the panel, top-middle. Like almost directly top-middle.

The image on screen looks completely normal and is unaffected by the noises.

My first instinct is to conclude that this is a power supply problem and I should replace it. I found the part number (AXY1203) on Pioneer's official site here, and it will run me around $380. I have no experience taking apart HDTVs so even if I have the part I'm reluctant to try to replace it myself. There's a servicer in my area who could do the job provided I have the part for him, and it would run me another $100 or so.

Before I make this decision, I was hoping to get some expert input here. Has anyone else experienced the problem I'm describing? Is tracing the problem to the power supply a reasonable conclusion? Is swapping it out likely to fix my problem, or is this a sign that my display is on the wane and will exhibit other problems down the road? Should I simply call it a day and look into buying an OLED?

I've loved every single minute with this display and I'd like to make it last as long as humanly possible, even if it means I have to spend some money to maintain/repair it. Thank you in advance for any help or insight you can provide.

(Note: I tried plugging the power cord into a different outlet, a different surge protector, etc, all to no avail.)
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post #11164 of 11214 Old 05-20-2018, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by scionracing View Post
I've owned my KRP 500M since 2010 (bought new) and haven't had a single problem with it. Last night before bed when switching inputs, I began to hear what I can only describe as popping or crackling sounds coming from the back panel. At first I actually thought it sounded like some kind of fly or something with wings somehow got caught back there and was buzzing around. But no, I powered the TV off and the noises stopped. Turned it back on and they resumed. It's pretty constant no matter what is displayed on the screen. It'll stop for a minute or so and then start again.

In addition to the popping/crackling, I can also hear a louder than normal buzzing noise coming from the rear of the panel, top-middle. Like almost directly top-middle.

The image on screen looks completely normal and is unaffected by the noises.

My first instinct is to conclude that this is a power supply problem and I should replace it. I found the part number (AXY1203) on Pioneer's official site here, and it will run me around $380. I have no experience taking apart HDTVs so even if I have the part I'm reluctant to try to replace it myself. There's a servicer in my area who could do the job provided I have the part for him, and it would run me another $100 or so.

Before I make this decision, I was hoping to get some expert input here. Has anyone else experienced the problem I'm describing? Is tracing the problem to the power supply a reasonable conclusion? Is swapping it out likely to fix my problem, or is this a sign that my display is on the wane and will exhibit other problems down the road? Should I simply call it a day and look into buying an OLED?

I've loved every single minute with this display and I'd like to make it last as long as humanly possible, even if it means I have to spend some money to maintain/repair it. Thank you in advance for any help or insight you can provide.

(Note: I tried plugging the power cord into a different outlet, a different surge protector, etc, all to no avail.)
I cant say whether its the power supply or not, but there is one listed on ebay for $60.

Replacing it is not difficult at all. Simply remove screws from back panel, remove back panel and replace board. Of course, make sure the TV is unplugged.

For $60 and a bit of DIY, its well worth it.

Sharp Elite PRO-70X5FD (Kuro PRO-171FD) x 2
Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M
Pioneer Kuro PRO-111FD
Pioneer Kuro PDP-5020
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post #11165 of 11214 Old 05-21-2018, 12:28 PM
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I cant say whether its the power supply or not, but there is one listed on ebay for $60.

Replacing it is not difficult at all. Simply remove screws from back panel, remove back panel and replace board. Of course, make sure the TV is unplugged.

For $60 and a bit of DIY, its well worth it.
Thanks so much for the prompt response. I may end up going this route, but I guess I'm wondering how long could I realistically make this panel last, provided I replace the parts as they fail? If I simply swap out faulty parts as they arise, could I theoretically make this panel last indefinitely?

Also, I heard that if the main board (motherboard?) fails that my settings will be wiped. But if it's just a power supply problem, I can swap that out without losing any of my calibrated settings. (I had the panel calibrated back in 2011.) Is this correct?
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post #11166 of 11214 Old 05-21-2018, 01:09 PM
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Thanks so much for the prompt response. I may end up going this route, but I guess I'm wondering how long could I realistically make this panel last, provided I replace the parts as they fail? If I simply swap out faulty parts as they arise, could I theoretically make this panel last indefinitely?

Also, I heard that if the main board (motherboard?) fails that my settings will be wiped. But if it's just a power supply problem, I can swap that out without losing any of my calibrated settings. (I had the panel calibrated back in 2011.) Is this correct?
These things are built like tanks and are extremely reliable. Not sure how many hours you have on your set, but I've seen sets with 20 to 30K hours happily producing an awesome picture with no signs of impending failure.

Yes, if you switch main boards you will lose your settings. You won't lose them when replacing the power supply though. Calibrations don't drastically drift on these things but it may be time for a re cal anyways.

Sharp Elite PRO-70X5FD (Kuro PRO-171FD) x 2
Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M
Pioneer Kuro PRO-111FD
Pioneer Kuro PDP-5020
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post #11167 of 11214 Old 05-21-2018, 01:16 PM
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These things are built like tanks and are extremely reliable. Not sure how many hours you have on your set, but I've seen sets with 20 to 30K hours happily producing an awesome picture with no signs of impending failure.

Yes, if you switch main boards you will lose your settings. You won't lose them when replacing the power supply though. Calibrations don't drastically drift on these things but it may be time for a re cal anyways.
Thanks again! That's good to know--is there a way I can check how many hours I've logged without accessing the service menu? I'd bet it's approaching the 10k hour range.

As far as a recal, that might be a good idea. Though I have checked it a few times over the years with the Spears & Munsil's disc and the AVSHD709 test patterns and I never end up having to change the settings at all. Granted, I'm using nothing more than my eyes as I don't have a colorimeter or light meter handy, just cycling through the basic patterns.

I've also noticed that some quasi-"burn-in" that I had a couple of years into owning it has all but faded at this point after extended use, which is super awesome. One of the many reasons I want to keep this thing around as long as I can

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post #11168 of 11214 Old 05-21-2018, 01:22 PM
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Thanks again! That's good to know--is there a way I can check how many hours I've logged without accessing the service menu? I'd bet it's approaching the 10k hour range.

As far as a recal, that might be a good idea. Though I have checked it a few times over the years with the Spears & Munsil's disc and the AVSHD709 test patterns and I never end up having to change the settings at all. Granted, I'm using nothing more than my eyes as I don't have a colorimeter or light meter handy, just cycling through the basic patterns.

I've also noticed that some quasi-"burn-in" that I had a couple of years into owning it has all but faded at this point after extended us, which is super awesome. One of the many reasons I want to keep this thing around as long as I can
As far as I know, you need service menu access to get the hour count.

If everything looks fine to you then leave it be.

Compared to other plasma displays, the Kuro's are very resistant against burn in. It's well worth keeping them because with OLED, HDR and 4K hitting stride, their resale value has plummeted.

Sharp Elite PRO-70X5FD (Kuro PRO-171FD) x 2
Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M
Pioneer Kuro PRO-111FD
Pioneer Kuro PDP-5020
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post #11169 of 11214 Old 05-21-2018, 01:27 PM
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As far as I know, you need service menu access to get the hour count.

If everything looks fine to you then leave it be.

Compared to other plasma displays, the Kuro's are very resistant against burn in. It's well worth keeping them because with OLED, HDR and 4K hitting stride, their resale value has plummeted.
That's unfortunate. So in terms of Plan B (in case my Kuro is FUBAR for some reason), would OLED be my best bet for replicating the black levels I've been accustomed to these past 8 years? I have a solid Blu-ray collection that is all 1080p and I do not plan on upgrading to the UHD 4K discs. Assuming they make 1080p OLEDs, would I be OK sticking with a 1080p panel instead of springing for the 4K model? My room setup is also not able to accommodate the seating distance necessary for fully realizing the benefits of 4K anyway.
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post #11170 of 11214 Old 05-21-2018, 01:42 PM
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That's unfortunate. So in terms of Plan B (in case my Kuro is FUBAR for some reason), would OLED be my best bet for replicating the black levels I've been accustomed to these past 8 years? I have a solid Blu-ray collection that is all 1080p and I do not plan on upgrading to the UHD 4K discs. Assuming they make 1080p OLEDs, would I be OK sticking with a 1080p panel instead of springing for the 4K model? My room setup is also not able to accommodate the seating distance necessary for fully realizing the benefits of 4K anyway.
OLED black level blows the Kuro out of the water. There is no comparison. Not sure if they make 1080p only OLED sets, they're all probably 4K.

Sharp Elite PRO-70X5FD (Kuro PRO-171FD) x 2
Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M
Pioneer Kuro PRO-111FD
Pioneer Kuro PDP-5020
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post #11171 of 11214 Old 05-21-2018, 02:39 PM
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OLED black level blows the Kuro out of the water. There is no comparison. Not sure if they make 1080p only OLED sets, they're all probably 4K.
Excellent--thanks!
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post #11172 of 11214 Old 05-21-2018, 03:26 PM
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OLED black level blows the Kuro out of the water. There is no comparison. Not sure if they make 1080p only OLED sets, they're all probably 4K.
Looks like current OLED range is 4K only. Will 1080p content look better on the 4K screen or just as good as on my (current) 1080p screen? Because everything I'll be playing on it is 1080p or below.
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post #11173 of 11214 Old 05-21-2018, 03:51 PM
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Looks like current OLED range is 4K only. Will 1080p content look better on the 4K screen or just as good as on my (current) 1080p screen? Because everything I'll be playing on it is 1080p or below.
Not sure, as you can see in my sig, I'm still rocking all 1080p sets haha!

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post #11174 of 11214 Old 05-21-2018, 04:26 PM
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The Sony A1e does a very good job with 1080p.
After 10 years it was very hard to let my Kuro 151 go. It it had gotten rather dim over the years.

The A1e is a fine replacement

4K DV programs from the Netflix app on the set are truly outstanding.

Sony A1E, Marantz 8805, Montis, Bryston,
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post #11175 of 11214 Old 05-21-2018, 04:37 PM
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The Sony A1e does a very good job with 1080p.
After 10 years it was very hard to let my Kuro 151 go. It it had gotten rather dim over the years.

The A1e is a fine replacement

4K DV programs from the Netflix app on the set are truly outstanding.
Anything in particular you miss about the 151 that performed better than the A1E? I've heard rumors that the OLEDs (at least those mfr'd for the US market) are more cheaply built than were the Pioneer PDPs, that they aren't built to last. Thoughts?
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post #11176 of 11214 Old 05-21-2018, 04:49 PM
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Anything in particular you miss about the 151 that performed better than the A1E? I've heard rumors that the OLEDs (at least those mfr'd for the US market) are more cheaply built than were the Pioneer PDPs, that they aren't built to last. Thoughts?
Motion was a bit better on the 151 than the Sony.

The Fios tv I watch on the Sony seems at least as good as the 151 was 10 years ago but it is hard to judge after all that time.

The Sony seems to be well built. But how can you tell about the internal electronics. The set runs much cooler than the 151.
The Sony is much brighter than the 151 with perfect blacks. My set was made in Mexico December 2017.

The competing LG sets may not be built as well as the Sony . Their motion is not as good as the Sony but they are less expensive.
I have put the set on the wall so it is not angled as the table top stand would place it.

Sony A1E, Marantz 8805, Montis, Bryston,
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post #11177 of 11214 Old 05-21-2018, 06:00 PM
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The Sony A1e does a very good job with 1080p.
After 10 years it was very hard to let my Kuro 151 go. It it had gotten rather dim over the years.

The A1e is a fine replacement

4K DV programs from the Netflix app on the set are truly outstanding.
Not surprised the 151 experienced a peak light output decrease. I've found the decrease to be more aggressive on the 60's compared to the 50's.

One way to counter is to raise ABL and/or VOL SUS, but raising the latter brings forth some good ole red tint.

Does the Sony show any of the near black banding that plagues the LGs?

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Pioneer Kuro KRP-500M
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post #11178 of 11214 Old 05-21-2018, 06:38 PM
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Not surprised the 151 experienced a peak light output decrease. I've found the decrease to be more aggressive on the 60's compared to the 50's.

One way to counter is to raise ABL and/or VOL SUS, but raising the latter brings forth some good ole red tint.

Does the Sony show any of the near black banding that plagues the LGs?
I have not seen any banding.

Sony A1E, Marantz 8805, Montis, Bryston,
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post #11179 of 11214 Old 05-22-2018, 07:21 AM
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Thanks again! That's good to know--is there a way I can check how many hours I've logged without accessing the service menu?
Yes, see the KRP-500 FAQ.

I might type 2K for 1080p.
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post #11180 of 11214 Old 01-14-2019, 09:33 AM
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Just curious if theres a simple tutorial on how to use Controlcal to check my hours on my 5020 and my Elite Kuros. There is so much info on the Controlcal forums that its overwhelming and a bit dated as well. For right now, I just want to check the hours on my Kuro and a used one I recently purchased. From what I can tell I need to get a USB adaptor and DB9 Female to DB9 Female Straight-Through. But everywhere I look I cant find one so far. Also will any cheapo DB9 Female to DB9 Female Straight-Through cable work?

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post #11181 of 11214 Old 01-15-2019, 10:29 AM
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Just curious if theres a simple tutorial on how to use Controlcal to check my hours on my 5020 and my Elite Kuros. There is so much info on the Controlcal forums that its overwhelming and a bit dated as well. For right now, I just want to check the hours on my Kuro and a used one I recently purchased. From what I can tell I need to get a USB adaptor and DB9 Female to DB9 Female Straight-Through. But everywhere I look I cant find one so far. Also will any cheapo DB9 Female to DB9 Female Straight-Through cable work?
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-p...e-program.html
This would be easier.
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post #11182 of 11214 Old 01-16-2019, 03:20 PM
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Thank you. That is all I wanted, but could not find anywhere. What is the lifespan, supposed, of these displays?
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post #11183 of 11214 Old 01-17-2019, 01:08 PM
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Thank you. That is all I wanted, but could not find anywhere. What is the lifespan, supposed, of these displays?
Leader board from the Plasma hours thread. A long time they can go.
All time Plasma
1st 62,142 by Aussierob Panny TH-42P77U
2nd 53,534 by Ez45 PRO-1150HD
3rd 43,384 by Treespider TX-P50V10E
4th 43,123 by dejrfan Panny TH-42PX60U
5th 42,324 by cooper.barrett PDP-4360
6th 39,824 by hazna tc-p54v10
7th 39,345 by Xae Pioneer Elite 150fd
8th 34,610 by lewlew NEC PX-61XR4A
9th 33,724 by Test Ickles's Mom and Dad TC-P65S2
10th 32,516 by Rickjan Pioneer PDP 610-FP
11th 31,854 by tedoll78 Samsung PN60E7000
12th 31,745 by by Sky_2_5 Panny TH-50PX50U
13th 31,320 by qwknuf6 Pioneer Elite 151FD
14th 29,895 by VA_DaveB TH-46PZ800U
15th 29,659 by Mathesar Kuro 5080HD
16th 27,962 by cooper.barrett PDP-4270HD
17th 27,277 by GPMAZ Samsung PN63C8000YF
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post #11184 of 11214 Old 01-18-2019, 07:39 AM
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36150 hours on a 2009 Pioneer KRP-600M (Elite Pro 141FD)

Arcam AVR850 • Pioneer KURO KRP-600M • KEF Reference Model 4/2/200c •• Velodyne DD15 •• HDI Dune 4K Solo • Logitech Squeezebox Radio/Duet • Wyrewizard Dreamcaster & Spellbinder (by Nordost) • JVC D-ILA-X7500 • HDFury Vertex

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post #11185 of 11214 Old 01-18-2019, 07:35 PM
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Leader board from the Plasma hours thread. A long time they can go.
All time Plasma
1st 62,142 by Aussierob Panny TH-42P77U
2nd 53,534 by Ez45 PRO-1150HD
3rd 43,384 by Treespider TX-P50V10E
4th 43,123 by dejrfan Panny TH-42PX60U
5th 42,324 by cooper.barrett PDP-4360
6th 39,824 by hazna tc-p54v10
7th 39,345 by Xae Pioneer Elite 150fd
8th 34,610 by lewlew NEC PX-61XR4A
9th 33,724 by Test Ickles's Mom and Dad TC-P65S2
10th 32,516 by Rickjan Pioneer PDP 610-FP
11th 31,854 by tedoll78 Samsung PN60E7000
12th 31,745 by by Sky_2_5 Panny TH-50PX50U
13th 31,320 by qwknuf6 Pioneer Elite 151FD
14th 29,895 by VA_DaveB TH-46PZ800U
15th 29,659 by Mathesar Kuro 5080HD
16th 27,962 by cooper.barrett PDP-4270HD
17th 27,277 by GPMAZ Samsung PN63C8000YF
I guess a better question would be, using mileage on the average car as a comparison, what would different hour milestones be equivalent to in miles on a car? Ballparking it that is. For instance, if you bought a 6yr old used Kuro and it had 1500hrs on it, i would think that would be equivalent to finding a 6yr old car that has 10,000-25,000 miles on it.
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post #11186 of 11214 Old 01-19-2019, 10:32 AM
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I recently found a Elite 151FD on craigslist and couldnt pass on the $300 pricetag. I was wondering, is there a way to tell if it has been calibrated? The seller didnt know because it came with the house when he purchased the house last year. The home also had a dedicated theatre. He really wasnt aware of what this TV was and had no use for it. I have a friend coming over later today with his laptop so I can check the hours on it with KK. Im hoping it has low hours. It replaced my 5020FD.

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post #11187 of 11214 Old 01-19-2019, 12:03 PM
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If you see values for RGB High drive & Low cutoff changed from default (0) and Color management values changed, and the tv looks natural, sharpness at 0, all digital filters and extra's turned off, brightness/contrast at normal values (1 or 2 ticks up or down) i would say it was calibrated at some point... but... it will need calibration anyway.

And, if you're lucky the (isf) calibrator left his name and calibration date & runtime at the moment of calibrating in the service menu.

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post #11188 of 11214 Old 01-19-2019, 02:04 PM
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Hi all,

I have a 141fd and I have a few questions I've been meaning to get some insight on.

1. Is there anyway to reduce/eliminate the noise or buzzing sound from the TV itself? With no audio hooked up (amp/speakers disconnected) the panel itself emits low buzzing sound. When you are playing a movie or game you can hear it obviously but in a dead silent room from up close its somewhat audible.

2. When selecting "PC" from the input settings menu, at least when you're using HDMI, the TV's overscan is eliminated but I lose all of the advanced picture settings from the menu. Is there anyway around this? Or is there a way to eliminate overscan without setting the input setting to "PC" mode?
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post #11189 of 11214 Old 01-19-2019, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fusion916 View Post
Hi all,

I have a 141fd and I have a few questions I've been meaning to get some insight on.

1. Is there anyway to reduce/eliminate the noise or buzzing sound from the TV itself? With no audio hooked up (amp/speakers disconnected) the panel itself emits low buzzing sound. When you are playing a movie or game you can hear it obviously but in a dead silent room from up close its somewhat audible.

2. When selecting "PC" from the input settings menu, at least when you're using HDMI, the TV's overscan is eliminated but I lose all of the advanced picture settings from the menu. Is there anyway around this? Or is there a way to eliminate overscan without setting the input setting to "PC" mode?
Dot by Dot eliminates overscan but is only available on 1080i or 1080p input signals. TV overscans 720P. I set my Directv to output 1080i and always get dot by dot.
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post #11190 of 11214 Old 01-19-2019, 03:10 PM
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Dot by Dot eliminates overscan but is only available on 1080i or 1080p input signals. TV overscans 720P. I set my Directv to output 1080i and always get dot by dot.
I am using a 1080p signal. Is "dot by dot" a option in the menu? If so, where is it?
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