The Official Pioneer 9G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 374 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11191 of 11214 Old 01-19-2019, 08:51 PM
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Nevermind I figured out how to change the screen size to dot-by-dot mode.

Any ideas on the buzzing? Is that something you just have to live with regarding plasma tvs?
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post #11192 of 11214 Old 01-20-2019, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jowicrt View Post
If you see values for RGB High drive & Low cutoff changed from default (0) and Color management values changed, and the tv looks natural, sharpness at 0, all digital filters and extra's turned off, brightness/contrast at normal values (1 or 2 ticks up or down) i would say it was calibrated at some point... but... it will need calibration anyway.

And, if you're lucky the (isf) calibrator left his name and calibration date & runtime at the moment of calibrating in the service menu.
I looked at the hour meter and it has 8023 hours on it. Not a bad find for a 10 1/2 year old TV.
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post #11193 of 11214 Old 01-20-2019, 05:22 PM
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Nevermind I figured out how to change the screen size to dot-by-dot mode.

Any ideas on the buzzing? Is that something you just have to live with regarding plasma tvs?
From your description of the buzzing to me it seems like normal plasma buzzing.
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post #11194 of 11214 Old 01-21-2019, 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Daffypuck View Post
I looked at the hour meter and it has 8023 hours on it. Not a bad find for a 10 1/2 year old TV.
If the hour meter wasn't reset
8000 hours in 10 years, averages about 2 hours a day. A bit low, but plausible if this was used in a dedicated theater setup and not as a regular tv.

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post #11195 of 11214 Old 01-21-2019, 08:19 AM
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If the hour meter wasn't reset
8000 hours in 10 years, averages about 2 hours a day. A bit low, but plausible if this was used in a dedicated theater setup and not as a regular tv.
Yeh, It was mounted in a sitting room adjacent to the theatre room in the home. Based on the PON counter, The 151 was powered on 70% less than my 5020 in the same time period, but for longer periods when on. For $300, its not a bad find. It sure beats spending $1500-$3500 on a new TV. Im happy with 1080p. Eventually Ill make the jump to 4k, but not now.
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post #11196 of 11214 Old 02-06-2019, 12:22 PM
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How have you guys calibrated your panels? I have a PRO-101FD with 10k hours and want to get it back to its glory days. It had a wicked red tint that I was able to (mostly) correct, but the grayscale needs some major work. I have a i1 Display Pro brand new in a box, but I have been told that I can't use it without a "profile" for my panel. Is there a way I can get a good calibration result without buying any additional hardware?
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post #11197 of 11214 Old 02-06-2019, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by zoglover View Post
How have you guys calibrated your panels? I have a PRO-101FD with 10k hours and want to get it back to its glory days. It had a wicked red tint that I was able to (mostly) correct, but the grayscale needs some major work. I have a i1 Display Pro brand new in a box, but I have been told that I can't use it without a "profile" for my panel. Is there a way I can get a good calibration result without buying any additional hardware?
This and This. Both free:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...-software.html
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...libration.html

Read all of this (or alot of it anyway):
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...-enhanced.html
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post #11198 of 11214 Old 02-07-2019, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jowicrt View Post
If the hour meter wasn't reset
8000 hours in 10 years, averages about 2 hours a day. A bit low, but plausible if this was used in a dedicated theater setup and not as a regular tv.
Yep, 8k hours for this TV means it was not used much at all. They are easy to reset and many of them have been. My son owns it now and it has never been reset. Its a nice tv and still has a very good picture (always used with ISF Day with D-Nice settings or Pure mode). Black level contrast - producing the wonderful inky blacks against rich saturated colors of the early days of course is nowhere near what it used to be. As great as this TV was in the day, it pales (pardon the pun) in comparison to OLED performance.

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post #11199 of 11214 Old 03-24-2019, 09:23 AM
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Flashing blue lights 8x

I'm a bit over 10 years with my 111. In February I had the blue flashing lights that happen when power to the screen gets interrupted. Somehow it went away, but two weeks ago, it came back with the eight flashes sequence. I followed whatever tips I could find to drain the power and use the standby button on the side of the panel. At the time I tried it, it didn't work, but later, the set is back to full function. I don't want to get into the whole OLED thing right now because of it being still somewhat unsettled and as you already heard, I like to buy for a decade. I also don't like the idea of getting rid of something that still works just fine for my viewing habits--I don't have 4k owned content and, since I couldn't experience it with the 111 anyway, I don't stream it, either. And what does one do with outdated, good components that are still fully functional?

Does anyone know whether the power issues I'm experiencing are a sign that the last gasp is approaching? It seems to me that if it was failing, it wouldn't recover. Instead, I've brought it back to working twice now. Since I'm looking for other causes, I wonder if it could be related to an Embertec AV+ power strip I use for the rest of the electronics that fully turn off the power rather than leave them drawing energy in standby. When the remotes are engaged, it picks up that signal through a sensor to allow power into the components. I removed the 111 from that strip and have it connected directly to outlet. But the blue flashing lights (8) happened after I made the change. I wonder whether there is still some interference from the signal receptor from the power strip. The set has turned on as normal for the past week. It's probably because I cross my fingers with one hand while the other presses the on button on the tv remote.

I'd rather keep this baby going. I am getting the sense that by moving to newer sets, I will need not only to spend funds for a new screen, but also for the other pieces of my set-up to keep sound going unimpeded which is now directed through my AVR (Pio SC-05). If I'm going to need to upgrade everything, I want to do so such that it lasts for a good while.

Thanks for any insights on the flashing blue lights and whether to consider them a warning of impending doom.

--Scooter
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post #11200 of 11214 Old 03-24-2019, 01:58 PM
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[QUOTE=sbwtwo;57796382]Flashing blue lights 8x

I'm a bit over 10 years with my 111. In February I had the blue flashing lights that happen when power to the screen gets interrupted. Somehow it went away, but two weeks ago, it came back with the eight flashes sequence. I followed whatever tips I could find to drain the power and use the standby button on the side of the panel. At the time I tried it, it didn't work, but later, the set is back to full function. I don't want to get into the whole OLED thing right now because of it being still somewhat unsettled and as you already heard, I like to buy for a decade. I also don't like the idea of getting rid of something that still works just fine for my viewing habits--I don't have 4k owned content and, since I couldn't experience it with the 111 anyway, I don't stream it, either. And what does one do with outdated, good components that are still fully functional?

Does anyone know whether the power issues I'm experiencing are a sign that the last gasp is approaching? It seems to me that if it was failing, it wouldn't recover. Instead, I've brought it back to working twice now. Since I'm looking for other causes, I wonder if it could be related to an Embertec AV+ power strip I use for the rest of the electronics that fully turn off the power rather than leave them drawing energy in standby. When the remotes are engaged, it picks up that signal through a sensor to allow power into the components. I removed the 111 from that strip and have it connected directly to outlet. But the blue flashing lights (8) happened after I made the change. I wonder whether there is still some interference from the signal receptor from the power strip. The set has turned on as normal for the past week. It's probably because I cross my fingers with one hand while the other presses the on button on the tv remote.

I'd rather keep this baby going. I am getting the sense that by moving to newer sets, I will need not only to spend funds for a new screen, but also for the other pieces of my set-up to keep sound going unimpeded which is now directed through my AVR (Pio SC-05). If I'm going to need to upgrade everything, I want to do so such that it lasts for a good while.

Thanks for any insights on the flashing blue lights and whether to consider them a warning of impending doom.[/QUOT
voltage regulators need replacing

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post #11201 of 11214 Old 03-24-2019, 03:22 PM
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Yes, I've seen the power regulator listed as a cause, though I've seen some report making the fix, but it not resolve the 8 flashes of blue. (Thank you to all who post here.) In any event, I'm about as handy with a soldering iron as I am with a surgeon's scalpel making my way through a human brain. For the record, I'm not a brain surgeon. My question is...does this issue come and go until it finally kills everything or is there hope that in not yet failing completely, it's possible there is some outside force at play here, something that will succumb to a burnt offering to a minor deity without the need for surgery?

The other worry is if I need to get something else to replace the 111, now is the time window to take advantage of various sales on 2018 models.

--Scooter
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post #11202 of 11214 Old 03-24-2019, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbwtwo View Post
Yes, I've seen the power regulator listed as a cause, though I've seen some report making the fix, but it not resolve the 8 flashes of blue. (Thank you to all who post here.) In any event, I'm about as handy with a soldering iron as I am with a surgeon's scalpel making my way through a human brain. For the record, I'm not a brain surgeon. My question is...does this issue come and go until it finally kills everything or is there hope that in not yet failing completely, it's possible there is some outside force at play here, something that will succumb to a burnt offering to a minor deity without the need for surgery?

The other worry is if I need to get something else to replace the 111, now is the time window to take advantage of various sales on 2018 models.
yes it will finally stop working,

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post #11203 of 11214 Old 03-25-2019, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by sbwtwo View Post
Yes, I've seen the power regulator listed as a cause, though I've seen some report making the fix, but it not resolve the 8 flashes of blue. (Thank you to all who post here.) In any event, I'm about as handy with a soldering iron as I am with a surgeon's scalpel making my way through a human brain. For the record, I'm not a brain surgeon. My question is...does this issue come and go until it finally kills everything or is there hope that in not yet failing completely, it's possible there is some outside force at play here, something that will succumb to a burnt offering to a minor deity without the need for surgery?

The other worry is if I need to get something else to replace the 111, now is the time window to take advantage of various sales on 2018 models.
Easy. Let's get that board sent out for repair.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-Serv...kAAOSwewJTmuWG
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post #11204 of 11214 Old 05-28-2019, 10:41 AM
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Easy. Let's get that board sent out for repair.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-Serv...kAAOSwewJTmuWG
Those chips are very small. Dont do it yourself unless u have the right soldering irons . Send it out to Ebay person
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post #11205 of 11214 Old 08-02-2019, 06:41 AM
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8 Blinks

Anyone know which IC's can fail to give you the 8 blinks problem ?


They are voltage regulator IC's


I think there are 3 chips. A repair kit has the chips but u need to buy it
to get the location. I know at least one is on the IO board.


BTW dont use a soldering iron. On Youtube they use a solder torch.
Youtube has the video To repair the one on the IO board.


BTW this is caused by bad design. The chips run hot and
are not heat sinked.
Many eventually fail.



Thanks
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post #11206 of 11214 Old 08-02-2019, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by enf1945 View Post
Anyone know which IC's can fail to give you the 8 blinks problem ?


They are voltage regulator IC's


I think there are 3 chips. A repair kit has the chips but u need to buy it
to get the location. I know at least one is on the IO board.


BTW dont use a soldering iron. On Youtube they use a solder torch.
Youtube has the video To repair the one on the IO board.


BTW this is caused by bad design. The chips run hot and
are not heat sinked.
Many eventually fail.



Thanks
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post #11207 of 11214 Old 08-03-2019, 02:51 PM
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Yes thats just one chip

Ive seen that.


Where are the others at risk of breaking ?
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post #11208 of 11214 Old 08-03-2019, 06:59 PM
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Ive seen that.


Where are the others at risk of breaking ?
Not sure. Could also send it in.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-Serv...MAAOSwnDZT7~mB
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post #11209 of 11214 Old 09-10-2019, 01:16 PM
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hey everyone. i'm super late to the party but just landed a 141FD for free

thanks D-Nice for the settings. do i use 151 or use KRP-400M settings?

anyways... i've noticed any HDMI inputs that the actual image shifts position, not horizontal/vertical but where it is in the middle of the display space. this is a PC directly connected to the display over HDMI directly.

i've played with the PC settings... but it's pretty random the shift. i haven't had time to test it using standalone players yet.

any tips?

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post #11210 of 11214 Old 09-11-2019, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by JediFonger View Post
hey everyone. i'm super late to the party but just landed a 141FD for free

thanks D-Nice for the settings. do i use 151 or use KRP-400M settings?

anyways... i've noticed any HDMI inputs that the actual image shifts position, not horizontal/vertical but where it is in the middle of the display space. this is a PC directly connected to the display over HDMI directly.

i've played with the PC settings... but it's pretty random the shift. i haven't had time to test it using standalone players yet.

any tips?
Is it possible you have Orbiter enabled and that's what you are seeing? Check in Setup, under Option. There are separate Orbiter settings for AV and PC sources.
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post #11211 of 11214 Old 09-11-2019, 08:39 AM
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i just disabled orbiter and that appears to have resolve the issue.

i was simply following along all the tuning settings.

there is only 1 HDMI output going from AVR->display.

do i need to manually enable orbiter for non-PC sources like BD player or DVD, etc.? what does it do?


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Originally Posted by Dago Red View Post
Is it possible you have Orbiter enabled and that's what you are seeing? Check in Setup, under Option. There are separate Orbiter settings for AV and PC sources.
edit: i found the answer here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-p...ter-modes.html

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post #11212 of 11214 Old 09-12-2019, 11:49 AM
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[quote=craigyboy;57797852]
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Originally Posted by sbwtwo View Post
Flashing blue lights 8x

I don't want to get into the whole OLED thing right now because of it being still somewhat unsettled and as you already heard, I like to buy for a decade. I also don't like the idea of getting rid of something that still works just fine for my viewing habits--I don't have 4k owned content and, since I couldn't experience it with the 111 anyway, I don't stream it, either. And what does one do with outdated, good components that are still fully functional?
Craigboy,

from one devoted hardcore Kuro fan to another, I advise you to re-think your position. I lived with my Kuro for 6-7 years until about 4-5 years ago when it went to my son. I still see the tv regularly when I visit my 18 month old Grandson, and as old habits die hard, may tweak the settings a bit, but really with no satisfactory result. This plasma technology deteriorates rapidly - imo much faster than we were initially led to believe. It saddens me a little because the picture as it is now, bares no resemblance to what it was, when it was then considered the reference by the industry gurus, with those incredibly rich, saturated, true to life colors, and famously inky blacks. The picture is now dull and boring. There is still a faint inkling of that quality, but it so very far from that state of the art it used to be. Unlike old amps and speakers etc, which can be reconditioned to past glory or modified to perform even better, once the plasma panel is done, its done.

Please do yourself a big favor: go to your retailer directly, plonk down less money than the Kuro cost, and become a proud new owner of the LG OLED C9 or the Sony A9. You will re-discover the passion and wonder of an incredible picture. Trust me - a fellow Kuro diehard - that either of these TVs offer far superior performance to the Kuro overall. Yes there are the questions on near black screen uniformity, which in the C9 and A9 is largely solved. I own a second generation 4k LG OLED659600 (curved screen) which does have the flaw with near black uniformity, but despite this and one or two minor imperfections, my OLED looks better than my Kuro ever did and is still a joy to watch. Its not just about the blacks. The level of color saturation and richness this technology can achieve is breathtaking. In my experience, no other technology thus far has this very special quality. There are more good tidings, because as the inherently flawed plasma which inevitably deteriorates over several years of regular use, this OLED still looks as bright and vibrant as the day I bought it. It is said that the blue OLED deteriorates faster, but I have seen no evidence of deterioration so far. I believe if you invest in the C9 or A9 you may well make decade mark 10 years from now with a TV that looks as good as the day you bought it. Take the leap of faith, and you will be glad you did.

Cheers,
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post #11213 of 11214 Old 09-13-2019, 01:03 PM
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Row of Pixels Out

Hello - I posted this on different thread, but this one looks like a more appropriate place to post it. Sorry for posting in multiple places.

I have a PRO-111FD that has a single row of pixels out. I recently took it to a repair shop to try to get it fixed. They told me one of the chips on the buffer is burned. They said for this particular model of Pioneer plasma, the buffer is permanently attached to the panel, so the whole panel would have to be replaced. They said it would be $800 plus labor, then immediately tried to sell me a new TV. When I went to retrieve my TV yesterday, I asked them if they even opened it up. They said no, and that they just hooked up a device and ran some software to test it. I found that kinda strange that they wouldn't even open it up to see if there was a loose connection or something obvious.

Anyways, I don't know much about what goes on inside of this TV, so can anyone tell me if what they said makes sense?
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post #11214 of 11214 Old 11-11-2019, 10:35 AM
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Exclamation

maybe for other types of TVs... but the pro grade ones probably has troubleshooting circuits that makes it easier to troubleshoot.

$800 can buy you a LOT of TV these days. as i sit right now i can buy a OLED 2016-2017 from facebook marketplace used.

FYI, see the post before yours. while it's still good... might be worth going to OLEDs. you will NOT be disappointed.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Gersh76 View Post
Hello - I posted this on different thread, but this one looks like a more appropriate place to post it. Sorry for posting in multiple places.

I have a PRO-111FD that has a single row of pixels out. I recently took it to a repair shop to try to get it fixed. They told me one of the chips on the buffer is burned. They said for this particular model of Pioneer plasma, the buffer is permanently attached to the panel, so the whole panel would have to be replaced. They said it would be $800 plus labor, then immediately tried to sell me a new TV. When I went to retrieve my TV yesterday, I asked them if they even opened it up. They said no, and that they just hooked up a device and ran some software to test it. I found that kinda strange that they wouldn't even open it up to see if there was a loose connection or something obvious.

Anyways, I don't know much about what goes on inside of this TV, so can anyone tell me if what they said makes sense?

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