Official Samsung 2011 PNxxD550 Thread - Page 65 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1921 of 1946 Old 11-22-2014, 05:27 PM
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Hi guys. I have the Brazilian model of this set, PL51D550. Yesterday I was watching TV then suddenly a loud sound of shot come from the television and then picture was gone. Only audio works now.
I had tested all voltages on the boards and checked for broken capacitors but i didn't found anything wrong. The led on logic board blinks indicating that everything is fine, but the self test that is supposed to show some image patterns on the screen don't work.
Any suggestions?
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post #1922 of 1946 Old 08-04-2015, 01:20 PM
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Question Which parts for PN59D6500?

Jack54,

What ended up being the issue? Which parts were replaced? I am having the same issue with my PN59D6500 and want to try to repair it myself. Guessing it is the main logic board or power supply board?

thanks,
Jennifer
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post #1923 of 1946 Old 02-16-2019, 01:02 AM
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Well IT`S 2019 my TV is still rockin'!! I just bought a new AV Receiver and ARC even works with this TV (PN51D550) HDMI 2 and 4!!! LOL
Gotta love it. This thing still works like a charm!!
I never did do the second firmware update as there were some problems with it I remember reading way back when it came out. Wondering if it was ever fixed. Guess I should have a look on the Samsung site perhaps.
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post #1924 of 1946 Old 02-27-2019, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Hotwheels1 View Post
Well IT`S 2019 my TV is still rockin'!! I just bought a new AV Receiver and ARC even works with this TV (PN51D550) HDMI 2 and 4!!! LOL
Gotta love it. This thing still works like a charm!!
I never did do the second firmware update as there were some problems with it I remember reading way back when it came out. Wondering if it was ever fixed. Guess I should have a look on the Samsung site perhaps.
I also am still using this TV daily, I still love it. I didn't know it had ARC, I was using optical. I'm going to check that out, thanks!
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post #1925 of 1946 Old 02-27-2019, 07:13 PM
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Anynet + is ARC Just enable Anynet+ on your TV and your receiver will show up.
Samsung support doesn't even know it has it. Kept telling me it doesn't but it does

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post #1926 of 1946 Old 02-27-2019, 07:15 PM
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Remember only HDMI 2 and 4 will work on our TVs for arc I use number 2 and it works fine

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post #1927 of 1946 Old 03-02-2019, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by obveron View Post
I also am still using this TV daily, I still love it. I didn't know it had ARC, I was using optical. I'm going to check that out, thanks!
Well how do you like using ARC
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post #1928 of 1946 Old 03-03-2019, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Hotwheels1 View Post
Well how do you like using ARC
Some challenges so far. I'm not getting any audio over ARC yet, but it could be an issue with my AVR.

I connected my AVR to the TV HDMI 2 and enabled Anynet+. Now I see the Anynet+ connection with the name of my AVR (Sony STR-DN1080). If I select the Anynet+ connection it moves my TV to HDMI 2 and the AVR to its home screen.

When I'm on another input (HDMI 1, TV Tuner) and I change the volume on my AVR, I see a display on the TV that shows the AVR volume. So far so good I guess, HDMI CEC control seems to be working.

However no audio from the TV sources over ARC, but they do work over optical. I tried some files on the TV USB input. Dolby 5.1 and DTS files play audio to the AVR fine over optical but nothing by ARC.
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post #1929 of 1946 Old 03-03-2019, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by obveron View Post
Some challenges so far. I'm not getting any audio over ARC yet, but it could be an issue with my AVR.



I connected my AVR to the TV HDMI 2 and enabled Anynet+. Now I see the Anynet+ connection with the name of my AVR (Sony STR-DN1080). If I select the Anynet+ connection it moves my TV to HDMI 2 and the AVR to its home screen.



When I'm on another input (HDMI 1, TV Tuner) and I change the volume on my AVR, I see a display on the TV that shows the AVR volume. So far so good I guess, HDMI CEC control seems to be working.



However no audio from the TV sources over ARC, but they do work over optical. I tried some files on the TV USB input. Dolby 5.1 and DTS files play audio to the AVR fine over optical but nothing by ARC.
I have the Sony dh790. To get sound from just the tv. I have HDMI CONTROL- ON
STANDBY THRU- on
AVR is off and I can just run the tv on its own using the tv speakers.

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post #1930 of 1946 Old 03-03-2019, 10:05 AM
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Also my AVR has a tv/HDMI setting which I believe I tried and it will provide sound from both and either/or which ever one I choose.
I believe if it's set to TV/HDMI oin the Audio Out settings and you hit the TV button on your remote the sound will come from the TV?

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post #1931 of 1946 Old 03-03-2019, 10:38 AM
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I also don't select my AVR on the tv in the Anynet+ menu I just select HDMI 2 from the source menu on my TV.
I also have eARC enabled on the AMP.
I just read lot's and played around with my AVR until everything worked the way I wanted it to. LOL

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post #1932 of 1946 Old 05-14-2019, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Azambuja View Post
Hi guys. I have the Brazilian model of this set, PL51D550. Yesterday I was watching TV then suddenly a loud sound of shot come from the television and then picture was gone. Only audio works now.
I had tested all voltages on the boards and checked for broken capacitors but i didn't found anything wrong. The led on logic board blinks indicating that everything is fine, but the self test that is supposed to show some image patterns on the screen don't work.
Any suggestions?
Did you ever fix this?

Our PN59D550 died today, turned it on for the kids and walked into another room for about a minute and heard some odd noise from the other room, came back and the display was off with the LED just blinking away and an obvious failed electrical component smell was present.
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post #1933 of 1946 Old 05-14-2019, 09:17 AM
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For those of you having problems with your TV, especially if you watch a lot, with kids etc, got news for you... TIME for new TV as this model is old now at 8 years. Sold mine five years ago... I sell mine while it's still worth something and buy a new TV every 2-3 years... never have a problem that way. Speaking of, my current LG is over 2 years now and I'm looking to sell it already.
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post #1934 of 1946 Old 05-14-2019, 11:29 AM
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For those of you having problems with your TV, especially if you watch a lot, with kids etc, got news for you... TIME for new TV as this model is old now at 8 years. Sold mine five years ago... I sell mine while it's still worth something and buy a new TV every 2-3 years... never have a problem that way. Speaking of, my current LG is over 2 years now and I'm looking to sell it already.
That is simply your personal opinion ... the TV fit the needs.
4k content still isn't as readily available as 1080p which is fine for our usage.

Sudden failure of the TV is all I'm mentioning here.

We still use our Phillips 42" plasma from 2003 (which has a 1024x1024 panel in a 16:9 ratio and does 720p/1080i just fine) as it fits the need for that space as well. Not everyone can, nor wants to spend money on a new TV all the time. it needed some new caps on the PSU maybe 10 years ago now but at least when it "died" it wasn't drastic like this one was.
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post #1935 of 1946 Old 05-14-2019, 02:30 PM
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Sudden failure of the TV is all I'm mentioning here.
And why I sell mine... BEFORE it happens. You can't sell a DEAD TV. And your TV may choose to go Kaput when the TV's are selling full price in stores...

I usually time selling mine when the stores are phasing out the year before models for a great price and I get about half what I paid for the TV I'm selling, then apply it for a new one. Win, win for me.

Then again, I have a 2008 Zenith Plasma 50" TV in the bedroom that I couldn't sell for a decent price after 3 years as it was an "off" brand and it's still working great... so you never know.
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post #1936 of 1946 Old 05-16-2019, 07:20 AM
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And why I sell mine... BEFORE it happens. You can't sell a DEAD TV. And your TV may choose to go Kaput when the TV's are selling full price in stores...

I usually time selling mine when the stores are phasing out the year before models for a great price and I get about half what I paid for the TV I'm selling, then apply it for a new one. Win, win for me.

Then again, I have a 2008 Zenith Plasma 50" TV in the bedroom that I couldn't sell for a decent price after 3 years as it was an "off" brand and it's still working great... so you never know.

That is an interesting strategy.. But if you sell your tv every 3 years and you get half of the purchase price back.. How much did you spend in 10 years for your tv ownership.. So you bought 3 times a tv, and sold it twice.. Every time you sell and buy a new one, you lose money..


It would be interesting to have an idea what this strategy did cost you..


Because I think.. Using until it breaks and then buying a new tv is in the long run much cheaper.. but maybe math is telling a different story..


I am observing the second hand Plasma TV market a lot.. and these 10 year old models, you can be happy if someone is picking it up for free.. Only worth selling if you dont have any space for it..


With LCDs I have no clue how the resell value is..

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post #1937 of 1946 Old 05-16-2019, 09:39 AM
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That is an interesting strategy.. But if you sell your tv every 3 years and you get half of the purchase price back.. How much did you spend in 10 years for your tv ownership.. So you bought 3 times a tv, and sold it twice.. Every time you sell and buy a new one, you lose money..


It would be interesting to have an idea what this strategy did cost you..


Because I think.. Using until it breaks and then buying a new tv is in the long run much cheaper.. but maybe math is telling a different story..


I am observing the second hand Plasma TV market a lot.. and these 10 year old models, you can be happy if someone is picking it up for free.. Only worth selling if you dont have any space for it..


With LCDs I have no clue how the resell value is..
If I was penny pinching and poor, I'd wait until the TV quit working. I make decent money so that's not an issue. I like to get a new TV every 2-3 years just for something new, latest tech, different look, different brand maybe etc. Since current TV is only 2-3 years old, I get about 2/3rd what I paid for it. When I buy new, I NEVER buy the current latest and greatest. I buy new but last years models that their phasing out for deep discounts. Like my last one was being sold as a discount at $1,799, month later ended up getting it for $1,299 as Best Buy wanted to clear out the floor space. I'll end up selling it for $900 or so... this month in fact... so I'm not losing much money at all. Best Buy still has a few of last years models sitting on the floor in boxes. I check online all 8 Best Buys within 20 miles of me.

AND if I wait until the TV breaks down or quits for good, Murphy's Law will have that happen when the TV's are full price with no "last years" models or sales going on.
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post #1938 of 1946 Old 05-16-2019, 09:49 AM
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I like your mindset behind this..


And it also gives an indication of the cost per year..


The last tv you got for 1299$ you sold it for 900$ 2 or 3 years later.. that makes 400$ for 2 or 3 years ownership.. depending on how long you keep it..


I think this is a very smart way to get hands on new tech for a rather low investment..
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post #1939 of 1946 Old 05-16-2019, 09:54 AM
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Personally I "lost" quite a lot of money by upgrading from an HD Ready Plasma to an Full HD Model in 2009, and then to an 3d Model in 2011..


I had no real sales experience and sold the tvs to friends of friends way under value..


The 2 Plasma TVs I own now I bought second hand for 300 Euros for both and I will use them until they break


My "plan" is to use the ST60 because of its better black filter in summer time, and the S10(S1) in winter time.. So once a year I switch those from basement to my tv area.. So both get used and hopefully one of those 2 will last very long.. Why use one tv if you can use 2


haha
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post #1940 of 1946 Old 05-16-2019, 11:34 PM
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Blown out transistor on the PSU.

Going to start with this kit, likely won't do more than the transistors.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-BN4...t/252528451507
probably going to buy the updated board he mentioned.

Basically I need 3 of the 6r190c6 transistors to fix it.

Same issue as this guy -
And this guy -
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post #1941 of 1946 Old 05-20-2019, 10:45 PM
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Blown out transistor on the PSU.

Going to start with this kit, likely won't do more than the transistors.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-BN4...t/252528451507
probably going to buy the updated board he mentioned.

Basically I need 3 of the 6r190c6 transistors to fix it.

Same issue as this guy - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XFiAoLMHgo
And this guy - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dswtNRiZwN8
Tried the shopjimmy parts to repair the PSU, no dice.

I don't have the tools needed to complete the replacement of the pair of ICs that come with the kit.
I did also test some resistors as was done in the videos above, one of the circuits has the 4.7 Ohm resistor reading 557k Ohms and the 200 Ohm resistor at 10k Ohms, so clearly when that transistor popped it knocked out more than we hoped for.

Ordered the BuyQual replacement board, appears to be a different model TV's board retrofitted to meet the requirements of the PN59D550 board.

I didn't buy from AliExpress but they seem to have decent photos of the substitute board.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Orig...839165207.html
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post #1942 of 1946 Old 05-29-2019, 12:08 PM
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Continuing on this front ... board arrived from HongKong broken (from buyqual) where they hot glued their adapter plate.
They are claiming damaged in shipping and want me to go after DHL, however the box and packing material was undamaged, indicating to me this was broken before packing.
Depending on what happens here I may need to file claim with PayPal.

They provide 2 longer cables and an adapter plug to connect the main boards that they glue to the board (top left corner of image).
They did their best to remove markings that indicate what the board was originally but they didn't grind off the numbers on the back of the board indicating the part numbers as this was printed over top of some traces.
This adapter allows using the stock cable but turns the dual ground into quad ground and single "Va" into dual "Va" that the PN59D550 uses.

I might be able to bypass the broken board with additional soldering of jumpers of my own like the board already has.

They appear to be using a revision of this board BN44-00273A (PSPF350501A):
This appears to be for a 42" plasma "B series" I've found a few TVs with that PSU being PN42B430P2DXZA and PN42B450B1DXZA
Based on photos they don't appear to have adjusted the voltages for the panel as the "Va" and "Vs" pots appear to be in the same position.
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post #1943 of 1946 Old 06-03-2019, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ludacrisvp View Post
Continuing on this front ... board arrived from HongKong broken (from buyqual) where they hot glued their adapter plate.
They are claiming damaged in shipping and want me to go after DHL, however the box and packing material was undamaged, indicating to me this was broken before packing.
Depending on what happens here I may need to file claim with PayPal.

They provide 2 longer cables and an adapter plug to connect the main boards that they glue to the board (top left corner of image).
They did their best to remove markings that indicate what the board was originally but they didn't grind off the numbers on the back of the board indicating the part numbers as this was printed over top of some traces.
This adapter allows using the stock cable but turns the dual ground into quad ground and single "Va" into dual "Va" that the PN59D550 uses.

I might be able to bypass the broken board with additional soldering of jumpers of my own like the board already has.

They appear to be using a revision of this board BN44-00273A (PSPF350501A):
This appears to be for a 42" plasma "B series" I've found a few TVs with that PSU being PN42B430P2DXZA and PN42B450B1DXZA
Based on photos they don't appear to have adjusted the voltages for the panel as the "Va" and "Vs" pots appear to be in the same position.
Continuing the discussion with myself here...

Had to file claim with PayPal.

Anyways, repaired the broken PCB with some glue and cleaned up the traces that were broken, sanded down the protective coating to allow solder to adhere to these traces and put some clean solder down then added a desoldering braid chunk to each of the broken traces to provide plenty of capacity to handle the current. Verified continuity with multimeter and installed it and it powered up! If one didn't want to repair the board like this there is a connector on the other side of the board that has all of the needed pins except the 'Va' one, which could likely be stolen even from the 'Va' test point that is about 1/4" away from the connector that has them. So really anyone could use BN44-00273A to replace this board if they are able to extend wiring / make some solder connections and adjust the output voltages with a multimeter.

Display came on but had some serious picture quality issues (what i later determined to be pixel misfiring.)
There were 3 large bands of this horizontally across the screen at the top, middle, and bottom, kind of looked like digital static I suppose.
The test panel images were all showing this, with one additional issue, the green panel was 2 shades of green split vertically down the middle.
I tried the factory reset option in the service menu on the off chance this would take care of it, it didn't... that apparently also wipes the service hour information, we were 15,380 hours on this TV (almost 641 days / 1.75 years), now we are back to zero. Which i suppose is ok then we can track how long it lasts after the repair.

Then I recalled reading somewhere about adjusting voltages to the panel to address pixel misfires.
Then I tested the voltages for Va and Vs, the PSU provided by BuyQual was still configured for the 41" display it was meant for, they were around 200 and 45 volts when they should have been 217 and 55, after getting them to 217.4v and 55.8v the display looked great again. This took about 1/2 of a turn and 1/4 of a turn of the potentiometers that control this voltage. Supposedly you can be 'fine' at +/- 10v for these but I would disagree, any under-voltage leads to a nasty image on my panel at least.

I am on firmware 1019.5 (the supposed 'rare' one) and was looking to see if someone had a copy of 1015 / 1016 still which claim to provide a brighter panel vs the newer versions of firmware.
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post #1944 of 1946 Old 06-04-2019, 04:45 AM
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Thanks for sharing this. Mine is still chugging away, but the information could come in handy some time.

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post #1945 of 1946 Old 06-05-2019, 05:34 AM
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Best place to look for firmware downgrades is http://forum.samygo.tv/viewforum.php...4f5c81cdf24724


You may get brightness pops if you downgrade below FW1019.5.
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post #1946 of 1946 Old 11-27-2019, 06:02 AM
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There has been an issue with the tv that we have as well, it isn't turning on. Last we got it checked, they said issue with the motherboard and it was costing a bomb to get it fixed which didn't make sense.

So this has just been sitting idle for the past couple of years.
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