Samsung PNxxF4500 Owners Thread - Page 23 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #661 of 1677 Old 06-21-2014, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh128 View Post
Shouldnt be much to worry about, but the plasmas are supposedly a little more susceptible to IR/burn in during the break in /aging period (first 200 hours or so).

I think you'll be fine at 18, just be more vigilant about long standing logos on the screen or paused images during the break in period. If you are really concerned though, when you are not watching the set, just leave it on ( a non-logo touting channel) and turn the cell light down a few ticks till your past the break in period.

Also, just a quick tip on the 4500 plasmas-- dont freak the first time you spot a bit of IR, its a perfectly normal occurence in some instances ( like having a guide on screen for a few minutes then switching to a dark, full screen program). In these types of instances, if it happens at all, it completely clears in about a minute or so. Remember, IR is not burn-in!
Also have the pixel orbiter turned on, and set it for the lowest number of minutes. If you have IR, you can run the whitewash screen.
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post #662 of 1677 Old 06-21-2014, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh128 View Post
Shouldnt be much to worry about, but the plasmas are supposedly a little more susceptible to IR/burn in during the break in /aging period (first 200 hours or so).

I think you'll be fine at 18, just be more vigilant about long standing logos on the screen or paused images during the break in period. If you are really concerned though, when you are not watching the set, just leave it on ( a non-logo touting channel) and turn the cell light down a few ticks till your past the break in period.

Also, just a quick tip on the 4500 plasmas-- dont freak the first time you spot a bit of IR, its a perfectly normal occurence in some instances ( like having a guide on screen for a few minutes then switching to a dark, full screen program). In these types of instances, if it happens at all, it completely clears in about a minute or so. Remember, IR is not burn-in!
Is there a free or cheap calibration disk you recommend for my 43" Samsung plasma?

I'd like to know the optimal settings for standard and movie mode.

Also why would there be different settings for standard, dynamic and movie mode?
- do people use standard for daytime tv
- and use movie mode for night time watching?
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post #663 of 1677 Old 06-21-2014, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huskydawgs View Post
Is there a free or cheap calibration disk you recommend for my 43" Samsung plasma?

I'd like to know the optimal settings for standard and movie mode.

Also why would there be different settings for standard, dynamic and movie mode?
- do people use standard for daytime tv
- and use movie mode for night time watching?
I havent used it, but the Disney WOW calibration disc seems to be pretty popular for simple, cheap, by eye calibration.

http://www.amazon.com/Disney-WOW-Wor...ey+calibration

About the different modes, honestly, I just use Standard with the tweaks I gave you for all viewing other than gaming. For gaming, I still use Standard, but I turn Game Mode ON (it actually looks better for Retro games), jack the Sharpness to 100 and have maybe 1 or 2 other tweaks. Thats it.

For SD (DirecTV) viewing, I use a few different settings, but still the Standard preset.

If your interested in my gaming and SD settings I can share them.
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post #664 of 1677 Old 06-21-2014, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh128 View Post
I havent used it, but the Disney WOW calibration disc seems to be pretty popular for simple, cheap, by eye calibration.

http://www.amazon.com/Disney-WOW-Wor...ey+calibration

About the different modes, honestly, I just use Standard with the tweaks I gave you for all viewing other than gaming. For gaming, I still use Standard, but I turn Game Mode ON (it actually looks better for Retro games), jack the Sharpness to 100 and have maybe 1 or 2 other tweaks. Thats it.

For SD (DirecTV) viewing, I use a few different settings, but still the Standard preset.

If your interested in my gaming and SD settings I can share them.
Thanks Josh. Really helpful.

I don't have a Blu-Ray player yet (only have a DVD player).

I also don't have a gaming system.

And I try not to watch anything other than HD.

The one issue I'm having is when I connect my laptop to stream Netflix or Amazon, sometimes the picture doesn't come in as HD and the picture doesn't fill the entire screen. There's a couple inches on top and bottom of the screen of black.
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post #665 of 1677 Old 06-21-2014, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huskydawgs View Post
Thanks Josh. Really helpful.

I don't have a Blu-Ray player yet (only have a DVD player).

I also don't have a gaming system.

And I try not to watch anything other than HD.

The one issue I'm having is when I connect my laptop to stream Netflix or Amazon, sometimes the picture doesn't come in as HD and the picture doesn't fill the entire screen. There's a couple inches on top and bottom of the screen of black.
Not sure what you mean by "the picture doesn't come in as HD". As far as it filling the screen is concerned, you may need to change resolutions, or perhaps create a new one. You may also need to play with the picture mode button and change between 16:9, / Screen Fit modes to get the screen to fit. 1024x768 (XGA) will fit perfectly, but give a stretched screen. Try 1280x720 with screen fit, as it works and looks good. Some other custom res's work well using 768 vertical res and different /odd horizontal res's.
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post #666 of 1677 Old 06-22-2014, 02:25 PM
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I made some discoveries earlier. I had read the other day about someones problem with their D8000 plasma, and they posted some screenshots from Calman 5. It showed that in Calman if you only have 2 point settings use 30% and 80% to set the white balance, and if the TV has 10 point use 30% and 100%, and there was another option 30% and 109%.

I tried the 109% and it didn't work out well. I also tried 100% and at first that didn't work either, and was a lot brighter than I remembered (150cdm^2 when it used to be 120cdm^2). But then I realised that the black optimiser was set to [auto], which had carried over from broadcast tv.

So basically while black optimiser set to [dark room] seemingly does nothing, set to [auto] gives darker blacks and brighter whites.

The black level with black optimiser [off] or [dark room] was 0.009cdm^2 black, ANSI black was 0.015cdm^2, 100% white was 120cdm^2 and ANSI white at 75cdm^2.

With black optimiser set to [auto] black was 0.007cdm^2, ANSI black was 0.014cdm^2, 100% white was 147cdm^2 and ANSI white was 78cdm^2.

So... 120/0.009=13333 75/0.015=5000 black optimiser off/dark room
147/0.007=21000 78/0.014=5570 black optimiser auto

The only difference in greyscale was that 100% white is less accurate with the increased brightness but still <3 deltaE.

Secondly, the Flesh tone option does actually do something, it reduced errors in colorchecker. It made light skin, dark skin, orange, and orange yellow more accurate.

Unfortunately the ColorHCFR file somehow corrupted itself, so I can't post any graphs. I'll post the settings later (got to write them all down)

Last edited by 22point8; 06-22-2014 at 02:30 PM.
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post #667 of 1677 Old 06-22-2014, 02:42 PM
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You mentioned a D8000. Does any of this apply to the F4500s?
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post #668 of 1677 Old 06-22-2014, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh128 View Post
You mentioned a D8000. Does any of this apply to the F4500s?
I got the idea to try new white balance settings by reading a thread about someones D8000, I have a F4900 which is a 3D version of the F4500.

I discovered the black optimiser and flesh tone behaviour as a result.
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post #669 of 1677 Old 06-22-2014, 03:25 PM
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Here are my settings for:

Broadcast TV
Spoiler!


HDMI (Bluray)
Spoiler!


PC (Playstation 3)
Spoiler!


Component
Spoiler!

Last edited by 22point8; 06-22-2014 at 03:33 PM.
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post #670 of 1677 Old 06-23-2014, 07:22 AM
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AFXZA and BFXZA Comparison

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Originally Posted by awarsoca View Post
Many thanks, thought I was going crazy on something simple LOL
After I got my PN43F4500 on January 15, 2014, I updated its firmware to 1027 a few hours after I brought it home. After discovering the BFXZA, I thought that by installing the December 2013 release of 1027, I might have done a downgrade on a 2014 model. For all this time, I have been wondering how I could get the 2014 firmware back. Are you saying that if I have a BFXZA, the TV wouldn't even be able to recognize the December, 2013 1027 release for the AFXZA? If that's the truth, it would feel good to know that I didn't downgrade my TV. If I did manage to downgrade my TV, how could I get my BFXZA firmware back? Also, if I have an AFXZA TV, what would be the advantages of replacing it with a brand new BFXZA TV?

Last edited by Big C; 06-23-2014 at 07:28 AM.
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post #671 of 1677 Old 06-23-2014, 09:51 AM
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what is "film mode"? it seems sometimes i can select it and change it, and other times it is grayed out? does it depend on source?

seems i can change it when watching tv through my set top box or antenna, but its grayed out when i use roku....

anyone have an idea on this?
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post #672 of 1677 Old 06-23-2014, 10:30 AM
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anyone have an idea on this?
Auto 1 and Auto2 are for interlaced sources, if a film is on TV and broadcast at 1080i 60, the film mode can detect the order of the fields and can decide whether to repeat fields in a certain order to get the original progressive picture, or recognise that the picture is supposed to be 60i. I don't know what the difference between Auto 1 and Auto 2 actually is, some reviews mention that Auto 2 does something about text.

Also I have no idea if it works the way I think it does, but maybe one does the restoration, and the other does the restoration, then 4:4 to play at 96hz like cinema smooth?

Cinema smooth is only for 24p material, instead of playing back at 60hz using 3:2 pulldown, it flashes each frame 4 times at 96hz.
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post #673 of 1677 Old 06-23-2014, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post
After I got my PN43F4500 on January 15, 2014, I updated its firmware to 1027 a few hours after I brought it home. After discovering the BFXZA, I thought that by installing the December 2013 release of 1027, I might have done a downgrade on a 2014 model. For all this time, I have been wondering how I could get the 2014 firmware back. Are you saying that if I have a BFXZA, the TV wouldn't even be able to recognize the December, 2013 1027 release for the AFXZA? If that's the truth, it would feel good to know that I didn't downgrade my TV. If I did manage to downgrade my TV, how could I get my BFXZA firmware back? Also, if I have an AFXZA TV, what would be the advantages of replacing it with a brand new BFXZA TV?
No idea, I just know that the 1027 wouldnt take
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post #674 of 1677 Old 06-23-2014, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 22point8 View Post
Here are my settings for:

Broadcast TV
Spoiler!


HDMI (Bluray)
Spoiler!


PC (Playstation 3)
Spoiler!


Component
Spoiler!

do you have settings for videos (mkv, mp4) played via usb?
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post #675 of 1677 Old 06-23-2014, 09:19 PM
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I just did a live chat with Samsung regarding the whole AFXZA/BFXZA issue. I'm posting the transcript as it took place so you all know for yourselves what's behind the suffixes.

Please wait for a Samsung Agent to respond.

You are now chatting with 'Finch'. There will be a brief survey at the end of our chat to share feedback on my performance today.

Your Issue ID for this chat is LTK1125601080105X

Finch: Hi, thank you for reaching out to Samsung technical support. How may I assist you?

Chris: What is the difference between the PN43F4500AFXZA from 2013 and PN43F4500BFXZA from 2014? Are there any new features added to the 2014 model? What about the way the panel produces black level, white level, and color? What about the glossiness of the screen? Are there any differences between the 2013 and 2014 versions?

Finch: Thank you for providing the model numbers Chris. I will check the difference and provide you the information.

Finch: Could you give me a few minutes while I gather the information for you?

Chris: Take your time. I'm right here. Thanks.

Finch: You're welcome.

Finch: I appreciate your time and patience.

Finch: I have double checked the information and I see that there is no difference between the two TV models.

Finch: The only difference is the year of manufacture for the two TV's.

Chris: Someone in the Plasma forum at www.avsforum.com stated that they have a BFXZA with firmware 1003, but weren't able to update to 1027 for the AFXZA. I bought mine on January 15, 2014 and was able to update to 1027. Does that definitely mean I have the 2013 version? Is it possible that I could have accidentally installed 2013 firmware on a 2014 BFXZA model?

Finch: The updates for the TV's would be according to the country the TV has been purchased.

Finch: If the country would be different then it could be that the TV has not been provided with the update in that country.

Finch: However, I see that the latest version for BFXZA is ver.1027.

Chris: I believe the AFXZA and BFXZA are both US models. I didn't double check the AFXZA/BFXZA suffix on the TV I purchased before I installed the AFXZA firmware. Even though I was able to install the AFXZA firmware on mine, could I have purchased a 2014 BFXZA, didn't know it, accidentally done a downgrade by installing the December 2013 firmware for the AFXZA model?

Finch: Yes, AFXZA and BFXZA are both US models the difference been the year AFXZA been 2013 and BFXZA been 2014.

Chris: Will firmware for an AFXZA 2013 model install on a BFXZA 2014 model?

Finch: As the model numbers and the features and series are the same it would be able to update.

Chris: Someone who owns a 4500BFXZA claims he has firmware 1003. I can't find 1027 for the BFXZA, yet I can find 1027 for the AFXZA. Is the 1003 firmware still from 2013 even though it is on a 2014 BFXZA model?

Finch: Yes, you are correct BFXZA been the latest model the information has not yet updated on the Samsung website.

Finch: As both the models are the same they would come with ver.1003 and when update is available they can be updates to 1027.

Finch: Just to confirm, are we connected on the chat?

Chris: It sounds like Samsung basicly is giving their 2013 leftovers a different suffix when they ship to retailors in 2014, whether they were manufactured in 2013 or 2014. This makes sense. I am glad I didn't accidently downgrade my TV. Now I know how to explain this situation to my friends at the forum. Thank you.

Finch: I do understand your situation as a customer and I appreciate your understanding.

Finch: I did provide you with all possible available information that I could to isolate the issue. I would have surely provided you with more if there was any available.

Finch: Before you go, I just wanted to make you aware of some really good support pages that are available to our customers.
Samsung SPOT (Smart Personal Online Training) offers real-time Samsung support with a product expert through live video chat. visit us at Samsung SPOT Our hours of operation(currently) are: Monday to Friday / 10am to 7pm EDT.
If you are looking for more details on the functionality of a product or would like to find answers to some of the questions, visit us at SamsungSimulator for an interactive review of some of our Samsung products.

Finch: You're welcome. Is there anything else that I can assist you with?

Chris: Not tonight.

Finch: Have a good night Chris!

Finch: Thank you, bye.

Finch: Thanks for chatting with Samsung Support. If you have a minute, please click on the blue “X close” button to receive the transcript of your chat and fill out a brief survey to help us serve you better.
Follow Samsung Service on Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.

Chat session has been terminated by the Samsung Agent.
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post #676 of 1677 Old 06-24-2014, 05:09 AM
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Good to know Big C but I hope he is wrong. I tried 4 or 5 times with both of the fir wares on the site with the same no update found. I even tried reformatting my USB stick. I even added a folder of photos just to make sure the tv could actually see the stick
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post #677 of 1677 Old 06-24-2014, 07:41 AM
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Below are some instructions for updating firmware on a US model 4500 (whether an AFXZA or a BFXZA). I would assume that the 43" and 51" use the same firmware. I'll be using the 43" in my instructions. It seems as though if you have version 1003, even if you have a BFXZA, all that seems to mean is that the TV was made in 2013, but released in 2014.

1. Go to http://www.samsung.com .

2. In the search field, type PN43F4500 .

3. Whether you have an AFXZA or a BFXZA, under PN43F4500AFXZA, click on Support (US models only).

4. Click See All Downloads.

5. Under firmware version 1027.2, click Zip.

6. Click Send.

7. Click Save.

8. So we can all troubleshoot at the forum, we should save the T-NVTF6AKUC file to our desktops. So select the Desktop as the target location.

9. Click Save.

10. Wait for the download to finish. If you see some kind of download completed notification message, close it.

11. Unzip T-NVTF6AKUC to the desktop. Let it save the extracted files to the default location. Be sure to uncheck "Show extracted files."

12. To avoid confusion, delete T-NVTF6AKUC.ZIP, and not the new folder called T-NVTF6AKUC.

13. Back up all important files from the USB stick you plan on using.

14. Format your USB stick. I'm not sure whether FAT16, FAT32, or NTFS will make a difference.

15. Copy the T-NVTF6AKUC folder to your USB stick. The TV will look for this folder with the two files in it.

16. Plug your USB stick into the TV.

17. Have your TV look for the update.

18.

A. If your TV doesn't find the update, then we'll have to chat with Samsung about this.

B. If your TV does find the update, hit ENTER/OK on your remote. The TV will start updating. Do not touch the TV until it reboots and the update is finished.

19. Disconnect your USB stick from your TV.

20. In order to avoid any conflicts from the previous firmware version, reset all your TV's settings to the factory defaults.

21. Make all your settings. Because new firmware has corrected some HDMI picture issues, you might wind up with picture settings other than the ones you made before you updated your firmware. The settings I posted were made with 1027.2 installed. Speaking of which, I have another revision I never posted here yet.

I only did the update once, so I forget exactly what menus, submenus, subsubmenus, etc. you have to get to to launch the update procedure, but it sounds like you guys know that part well enough you can do it in your sleep. I think the harder part is preparing your computers and USB sticks so your TVs can recognize the update.

Good luck,

Big C

Last edited by Big C; 06-24-2014 at 09:28 AM.
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post #678 of 1677 Old 06-24-2014, 09:46 AM
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Although all my picture settings were made with firmware version 1027.2 installed, here is my latest template.




Setting - Dynamic - Standard - Movie



Cell Light - 20 - 20 - 20

Contrast - 100 - 100 - 100

Brightness - 64 - 44 - 44

Sharpness - 0 - 0 - 0

Color - 50 - 50 - 50

Tint (G/R) - G50/R50 - G50/R50 - G50/R50

Dynamic Contrast - NA*1 - Off - Off

Black Tone - NA*1 - Off - Off

Flesh Tone - NA*1 - 0 - 0

RGB Only Mode - NA*1 - Off - Off

Color Space - NA*1 - Native - Native

R Offset - NA*1 - 37 - 37

G Offset - NA*1 - 37 - 37

B Offset - NA*1 - 37 - 37

R Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 25

G Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 25

B Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 25

10P White Balance - NA*1*2 - NA*2 - Off

Gamma - NA*1 - 0 - 0

Motion Lighting - NA*1 - Off - Off

Color Temperature - Standard - Standard - Standard

Black Optimizer - Off - Off - Off

Digital Clean View - Off - Off - Off

MPEG Noise Filter - Off - Off - Off

HDMI Black Level - NA*3 - NA*3 - NA*3

Film Mode - Off - Off - Off

(*1)The Advanced Settings are not available in Dynamic mode.

(*2) 10P White Balance is not available in Dynamic or Standard modes.

(*3)When inputting unprocessed YCbCr4:2:2 HDTV, Blu-ray, and DVD sources, HDMI black level is not available.
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post #679 of 1677 Old 06-24-2014, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krh77 View Post
do you have settings for videos (mkv, mp4) played via usb?
Try the PC settings, I think the TV plays things back in RGB. About the media player .m2ts files have to be renamed to .ts and I downloaded the old Terminator 2 Extreme Edition trailer (1440x1080p WMVHD), it played that back in 4:3, but with working sound, but the PS3 plays it back in 16:9 as it should, but no sound.

Or you could copy the OTA broadcast settings so you can compare movie and standard on the fly.
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post #680 of 1677 Old 06-25-2014, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post
The settings I posted were made with 1027.2 installed. Speaking of which, I have another revision I never posted here yet.
Really...?

So your plasma has a newer/different firmware than 1027.2...?

What's the number...?

Spoiler!
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post #681 of 1677 Old 06-26-2014, 05:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bizarro_Stormy View Post
Really...?

So your plasma has a newer/different firmware than 1027.2...?

What's the number...?
I meant another revision of my settings. Particularly, I lowered the brightness from 45 to 44, changed Color Space from Custom to Native, and raised the RGB Offsets from 35 to 37. Version 1027.2 is still the latest firmware for this TV.
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post #682 of 1677 Old 06-26-2014, 12:12 PM
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If I use -1 gamma I have too put brightness about 5-8 above where dithering starts otherwise it's too dark in the low end.If using gamma 0 then I put brightness right where dithering starts.This is for a room with lighting.Probably every tv is different though,firmware etc.My e450 produces a soft image(in a lighted room) that increases as it ages.

Edit color back up to 47-48.Skintone saturation varies a lot between different programs.

Last edited by Vic12345; 06-27-2014 at 11:05 PM.
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post #683 of 1677 Old 06-29-2014, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22point8 View Post
Here are my settings for:

Broadcast TV
Spoiler!


HDMI (Bluray)
Spoiler!


PC (Playstation 3)
Spoiler!


Component
Spoiler!

Loving your settings dude. Just a question for the PC/ps3 settings do you rename the input to PC? Is that what you meant?
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post #684 of 1677 Old 06-30-2014, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by harrywang View Post
Loving your settings dude. Just a question for the PC/ps3 settings do you rename the input to PC? Is that what you meant?
Thanks, yes rename the input to PC. (Change input/Press Tools over the input/rename as PC), what I like is you can have a PS3 in PC mode when playing games, but when you put a bluray in it goes back to movie mode.

The other day my brother was playing Tekken Tag 2 and obviously left it on a screen for too long (I think it was the ending movies) and had some really bad image retention. I tried my usual approach (broadcast tv, no logos, low cell light) but it was taking too long. So I used this DVD and set the picture mode to Dynamic. Not only did it get rid of all traces of image retention, it greatly improved panel uniformity.

Normally on the screen wiper I could see dirty screen effect, and in football (soccer to you Americans) but to a much less noticeable extent. Now I see none of it, even in the screen wiper.

Here is the link to the DVD http://beginwithsoftware.com/videogu.../#.U7FUAfldVyS
I recommend 16:9 Mode 4 High Speed and set the display mode to dynamic. It plays on a 10 second loop.
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post #685 of 1677 Old 06-30-2014, 10:10 AM
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Picked up the 43" F4500 last night for $298. I am a wire cutter and am using OTA only. Will add Amazon Fire TV later. I really like the built-in guide which for OTA users provides TV listings for a good number of hours. Thanks to all who have shared their settings. I will reference those tonight.
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post #686 of 1677 Old 06-30-2014, 05:58 PM
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Saw a while back something about you know brightness/gamma is set right with Batman 1989 and the scene where goons try to unmask him and if you can see his nose when they lift the mask all is good. I couldn't take a picture, but I could see it. Batman 1989 is really drab though, and not particularly good looking.

Tonight I watched Batman Returns, it looked so much better, had lots of colour alongside the darkness and snow, and more detail.

These pictures can't do it justice but here goes, they were taken on my crappy phone camera.




There was more detail in what I actually saw, but the pictures are representative of how good the black levels are, except some black crush, but that the camera.
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post #687 of 1677 Old 06-30-2014, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22point8 View Post
Saw a while back something about you know brightness/gamma is set right with Batman 1989 and the scene where goons try to unmask him and if you can see his nose when they lift the mask all is good. I couldn't take a picture, but I could see it. Batman 1989 is really drab though, and not particularly good looking.

Tonight I watched Batman Returns, it looked so much better, had lots of colour alongside the darkness and snow, and more detail.

These pictures can't do it justice but here goes, they were taken on my crappy phone camera.




There was more detail in what I actually saw, but the pictures are representative of how good the black levels are, except some black crush, but that the camera.

Just wondering you said PC Mode is the most accurate for this tv right? can't i use that setting for tv/movies as well? I'm using an hdmi cord for my PVR so I can change it to PC mode right?
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post #688 of 1677 Old 07-01-2014, 02:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrywang View Post
Just wondering you said PC Mode is the most accurate for this tv right? can't i use that setting for tv/movies as well? I'm using an hdmi cord for my PVR so I can change it to PC mode right?
If you set your player to output RGB instead of YCbCr then you can watch with the PC mode. PC mode is only active when it receives an RGB signal. On a PS3 during playback of a bluray/dvd you can change on the fly by pressing triangle to bring up the menu, and on the av options change to RGB, or from the XMB there is a similar option.

Also, if you want to play any PS2 classics on a PS3 you have to use limited range RGB, otherwise all the blacks become grey. I don't know why. I can't see any difference between limited and full anyway, maybe because the super white option is on?

You'd have to look around in the menus of your PVR and look for a way to output RGB.

If your device has a browser you can go to http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php and set brightness so you can see box 1, on PC mode for me thats 47.

And PC mode is only more accurate as a preset (with warm 2, cell 20, contrast 95, sharpness 50), calibrated is better, but PC is probably better on the whole because copying settings can only get you so much.
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post #689 of 1677 Old 07-01-2014, 03:25 AM
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I see. Are you sure it only works on RGB mode? I switched my input to PC and it seems like it works? I'm not sure though. Everything looks pretty good though. Most of the settings are greyed out.
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post #690 of 1677 Old 07-01-2014, 04:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrywang View Post
I see. Are you sure it only works on RGB mode? I switched my input to PC and it seems like it works? I'm not sure though. Everything looks pretty good though. Most of the settings are greyed out.
Maybe its only for 24p that it fall back to movie mode then.
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