Samsung PNxxF4500 Owners Thread - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 1677 Old 11-30-2013, 01:46 PM
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This is what i found out today. I hooked up an Optical cable to the Tv's Optical out and ran it to my tuner. It will let you select Pcm, or Dts Neo 2:5, just pick what sounds good to you. It did not let me select Dolby Digital but my tuner decodes that. When I hook up the Hdmi cable Dolby Digital may also appear on the Tv's menu. Personally I love the Dts Neo 2:5. Nice and clear and ear splitting loud. Love it.

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post #62 of 1677 Old 11-30-2013, 02:04 PM
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Thanks for the update. Did the source you were using supply Dolby Digital 5.1?
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post #63 of 1677 Old 11-30-2013, 05:04 PM
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Yes, I have a SONY STR-DG910

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post #64 of 1677 Old 11-30-2013, 05:28 PM
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I'm having an issue updating my firmware. It needs the newest firmware, but for whatever reason it won't update from the USB drive. I have the unzipped folder on the drive, and nothing else. Is that right or should I just have the update file?
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post #65 of 1677 Old 11-30-2013, 08:51 PM
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Never mind. Mine actually has a newer version.
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post #66 of 1677 Old 12-01-2013, 07:53 AM
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When you guys use the scrolling feature in screen burn protection how long do you let it run?

I have my tv set up with pixel shift 10 min, but only have let the scroll run for about two to five minutes at a time.

Thanks,

Anthony

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post #67 of 1677 Old 12-01-2013, 04:55 PM
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Just got a 51" 4500 for $429.  Could have gotten the 5300 1080p for only $100 more, but was figuring retro video game systems' 240p,  480i, and 480p outputs might look a bit more "natural" on the 720p display.  I was allowed, by some cooperative store employees to test the 720p panel and a larger 60" 1080p Sammy out with a Wii I brought into the store.  The 4500 looked good enough in the 480p, 480i testing that I spent very little time with the larger 1080p display ( not sure what model, but it was a Sammy), though the little time I played with it it looked pretty good also.

 

Upon getting the 4500 home I cant help but think I should have just went with the 5300 but I'm still not sure if the 1080p would look better or worse in the 3 above mentioned video modes.  I am under no delusions that it looks better with a full-HD feed, but the 4500 is no slouch either unless you have the 2 displays side by side or are viewing closer than 8 feet or so.

 

Anyways, will be posting my thoughts in the next few weeks or so as I get time to play around with the set (its currently in its box as we are remodeling the bedroom its going in). 

 

One interesting tidbit of info about it I found out during the few hours I played with it at home before boxing it back up-- composite 240p is accepted by the set, and is (barely) passable for SNES/Genesis consoles on up, but the original NES looks pretty poor on it.  The upscaler apparently doesnt deal with the dot crawl/dithering the original NES puts out over composite very well, and images like mesh/crosshatch or tight chainlink fencing in games appear as one solid color if the screen is still.  While scrolling, you can make out that it is in fact a mesh or crosshatch.  This seems to be an issue with the upscaler/video processor rather than the screen res, so not sure if the 5300 would fare any better.

 

Also, more interesting, is that the set officially has a 720/240p mode (which doesnt quite make sense to me but I'm pretty sure thats what it said), and it looks great.  Hook a PS2 up using component cables, and run a PS1 game ( I ran Castlevania:SOTN) and you can see the screen switch to and display "720/240p" in the upper left corner for a few seconds.  This mode looks great, about 100x better than the NES using composite cables, and about 2 or 3x (again my opinion, hard to quantify) sharper than plain vanilla PS1 running composite.

 

Any thoughts on if and how bad I blew it by not going with the 5300 for $100 more?  Any input on how the different sets handle SD content? Worse case, I figure I can put the $100 towards some RGB/SCART cables and converters to get the best picture from my old systems on the new display.  Was also thinking of snagging a DVDO iScan VP30 video processor as well.


Displays: Samsung PN51F5300BFXA, PN51F4500AFXA, PN51F4500BFXA

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post #68 of 1677 Old 12-02-2013, 08:50 AM
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Back to the Scrolling feature, does anyone use it? And how often? I am using Pixel Shift and Scrolling about once a day for a few minutes. Ideas?

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post #69 of 1677 Old 12-09-2013, 02:06 AM
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I own last year's Samsung E450 and i really love the image.
Any difference in PQ between it and F4500? Given the various picture settings on the F4500.
My small setup:)
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post #70 of 1677 Old 12-23-2013, 10:43 AM - Thread Starter
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''I own last year's Samsung E450 and i really love the image.
Any difference in PQ between it and F4500? Given the various picture settings on the F4500.''



I own the F4500, it has more color adjustability (CMS, 10P W.B). Other than more accurate color, the two are probably identical.

Just my 2 cents.
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post #71 of 1677 Old 12-23-2013, 12:19 PM
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Don't know about last years models but I've been using the F4500 for a month and love it. Great color, fast motion, awesome for media, love the separate inputs. Glad I bought it, no regrets.

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post #72 of 1677 Old 12-28-2013, 04:58 PM
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Finally got to spend more time with the set (opened it around Christmas when I completed work our new master bedroom.  Couple thoughts--

 

1.)  The first thing you must do with this set is turn "Eco" mode off-- the light sensing brightness adjustment doesnt seem to work properly--ie the screen begins to dim drastically within a minute or so of powering on, even if all the lights in the room are on.  To me, it should only dim in dark rooms, not lit ones.  Once Eco is turned off and a few adjustments are made to the "Standard" settings, such as increasing Cell Light to 16 and minor fiddling with color/brightness/contrast/sharpness, everything is good to go.  Currently, for watching TV, my settings are as follows:

 

Cell Light 16

Contrast 100

Brightness 50

Color 50

Sharpness 50

Tint R 50 GR 50

 

2.)  Of the presets, I find that going with the Standard setting and increasing the Cell Light and other minor tweaks as above gives the best picture out of the box.  "Vivid" (torch) mode looked the best out of the box, but tweaked Standard looks much better.  Vivid is just too gaudy and un-natural.  The Movie preset is OK, but I find it to be a bit green for my tastes.

 

3.) Once properly adjusted, HD sources look absolutely phenomenal on this set.  The screen is plenty bright for all viewing conditions that I have thrown at it and the picture is so colorful yet natural (beats the crap out of all LCDs I have seen).  This is a 720p (actually 1024x768) 51" screen and yes, pixels are visible standing 3 or 4 feet from the screen, BUT if you watch it from about 8 feet or more, this is not going to be an issue.  We watch from our bed about 8 or 9 feet from the screen and with a good HD source it looks like you are spying on people from a secret window, I kid you not. 

 

4.) If you game, you are in for a treat.  The set looks incredible with HD sources and ED (480p) sources alike. One really great feature for retro-gamers like myself is that the set has 720/240p mode for sources like SNES and Sega Genesis and works perfectly using those systems through an RGB/SCART to component video converter.  This is pretty big, as it seems many other LCD and plasma sets do not support this mode.  They look amazing (in game mode) and have no noticable lag whatsoever.  Whats strange is, on this set, I find that both 240p and 480i sources actually look better in "Game Mode".  Running them outside of game mode produces some strange visual artifacts when graphics are in motion.  Ive also found the audio is noticably louder when in game mode than when not.  The set seems to line double/upscale 480i quite well, still images look ultra sharp, graphics in motion look pretty good as well, with just a slight bit of blur. 

 

Contrary to what Ive read, it seems like there is just the slightest bit of lag when NOT using game mode, but since games look better (at least 240p and 480i ones anyway) in game mode anyway, this is not a problem.  Also, FYI, the set officially accepts and supports input resolutions of (at least the ones Ive tested from a variety of sources) the following:

 

240p

480i

480p

720p

1024x768

1080i

1080p

 

Each of these resolutions are correctly reported by the TV when pressing the INFO button when they are fed to the set.

 

Current settings for gaming (mostly retro)--

 

Cell Light 14

Contrast 100

Brightness 45

Color 50

Sharpness 85

Tint R 50 GR 50

 

5.) Last, but certainly not least, movies actually look like movies on this set.  Unlike almost ALL LCD sets, there is no crappy motion interpolation "soap opera" effect when watching 24 fps movies/ DVDs.  I still dont understand why LCD sets do this, as I would think they dont technically have to?  Anyways, to me, watching a DVD or Blu-Ray movie looks motion wise just like it does on a good old CRT.  This is a BIG plus for me.

 

If anyone has any more questions about the set, I'll be happy to try to answer!!

 

Cheers!


Displays: Samsung PN51F5300BFXA, PN51F4500AFXA, PN51F4500BFXA

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post #73 of 1677 Old 12-28-2013, 09:20 PM
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Thanks for the write up regarding video game systems on this display.

I wonder if you have tried the Wii with component cables and Virtual Console titles. Do these look good on this display and if they require overscan to fill the screen. Some titles such as Mario Bros 3 have lots of junk displayed as you move through levels that don't show on a CRT TV but tend to on most flat panels.

Thanks.
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post #74 of 1677 Old 12-29-2013, 01:20 PM
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As I couldn't find calibration settings for this specific model, I used most of CNET's professional settings from the 2012 model (PN51E450) and it looks fantastic!

--PICTURE MENU

Mode: Movie
Cell light: 14
Contrast: 91
Brightness: 46
Sharpness: 22
Color: 51
Tint: G50/R50

--SUBMENU: ADVANCED SETTINGS
Color space: Native
Gamma: +1
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Black Tone: Off
Flesh tone: 0
Motion Lighting: Off

--SUBMENU: WHITE BALANCE
R-Offset: 26
G-Offset: 25
B-Offset: 25
R-Gain: 22
G-Gain: 24
B-Gain: 25

--SUBMENU: PICTURE OPTIONS
Color tone: Warm2
Size: 16:9
HDMI black level: Normal
Film mode: Off
Screen Burn protection [default values]
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post #75 of 1677 Old 12-29-2013, 05:55 PM
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Ive actually tried Wii, Gamecube, and PS2 all on this set using component cables.

 

First off, the Wii, using component cables and set to progressive scan (480p), 4:3 mode, with TV set to 4:3 mode:

Games tested: Super Mario Galaxy and Virtual Console

 

Although Galaxy, like many Wii games, is 16:9 compatible, I started with 4:3 here because I tested both ways and find the picture looks best in this mode-- its absolutely stunning.  Everything is sharp, clear, and colorful, and you dont get any upscale motion blur like you would if running in 480i.  I never thought I'd say it, but last night I was messing with it and I think it looks as good as, and possibly a bit better, than it did on my old Hitachi Ultravision Digital 1080i/480p 36" CRT, which is saying A LOT.  Wii and GC generally look their greatest on early 2000's 480p capable CRTs, and till last night my Ultravision was the best 480p Ive seen, but this set really gives it a run for its money, especially in 4:3 mode settings on both the Wii and TV.  My parents have a Sanyo 1080p LCD set and the Wii looks like a blurry mess on it, this 720p plasma blows it out of the water.

 

Virtual Console, as well as some emulators (Genesis, NES, SNES) on my hacked Wii look perfect in 480p AND 240p.  Not going to say there are no overscan/underscan issues at all, as Im sure some games may have some, but I didnt notice any.  Contrary to what some people have written, the Wii can indeed output 240p over component, as evidenced by the great Genesis/MD emulator.  You can set the resolution to "Native" and it outputs 720/240p to the TV.  This produces an excellent image, on par with or possibly even a bit sharper than my real Genesis outputting RGB/SCART converted to component to the TV (which looks great by the way).

 

Switching to 16:9 mode on the Wii and TV to match, Galaxy still looks very, very good, just not quite as crisp as in 4:3 mode.  Its still miles ahead of the previously mentioned Sanyo 1080p LCD.  Virtual console and emulators scale well in this mode as well, but again 4:3 looks a bit better (and is native format anyway for all VC and emulators).

 

Gamecube , using my now near impossible to get component cables, essentially looks identical to the Wii.  Some titles use a slight blur filter so some are sharper than others, ( for example Rogue Leader is not as crisp as Rebel Strike) but thats just how they are programmed and you get same results whether on Wii or GC.

 

PS2 through component produces a great picture, tested with Gradius V and MGS 3, and Castlevania :SOTN.  With the first two titles, I would say the visuals are every bit as good as 480p with still or slowly moving graphics, but when scrolling speed increases, you get a bit of "upscaling blur".  Not bad mind you, just not quite on the level of my previous Phillips 480p 32" CRT, which had quite possibly the best 480i upscaler Ive ever seen (way better than my Ultravision, which had pretty poor 480i upscaling in motion).

 

If you boot Castlevania, PS2 switches to 720/240p mode, and it looks as good as the Wii VC and emulators do.  Very,

very good.

 

Hope this answers some of your questions, if I get a chance I'll upload some photos a little later!


Displays: Samsung PN51F5300BFXA, PN51F4500AFXA, PN51F4500BFXA

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post #76 of 1677 Old 12-29-2013, 07:16 PM
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These are awesome tv's aren't they. Now here's a question, at what point should I calibrate the screen? I've been running my set for a little over a month, about six, seven hours a night. Also, what is a go to calibration disc? I only want to buy one.

Thanks,

Anthony

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post #77 of 1677 Old 01-04-2014, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MediaFan63 View Post

These are awesome tv's aren't they. Now here's a question, at what point should I calibrate the screen? I've been running my set for a little over a month, about six, seven hours a night. Also, what is a go to calibration disc? I only want to buy one.

Thanks,

Anthony

I think it's OK to do your own calibration by now.

I use the DVE Blu-ray and have gotten great results from it.
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post #78 of 1677 Old 01-04-2014, 04:11 PM
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Ok, thanks. I was thinking the Disney disc, or maybe someone has a better idea? I've never had to calibrate a Tv before. Really though, if it gets better as I have heard I'll really be happy.

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post #79 of 1677 Old 01-04-2014, 07:38 PM
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Hello, I have a Samsung Plasma 60 F5000 and it has a very annoying problem.

 

PS3 + PC --> HDMI --> HT --> HDMI --> TV

 

It keeps turning off and on the video and audio while I'm playing or watching. It's very fast (1 sec) and the reproduction starts where it stopped. It's like a hiccup.

 

What can I do to fix it?


Thanks!

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post #80 of 1677 Old 01-05-2014, 09:12 AM
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Ok, DVE Blu-ray, I'll check it out. I didn't see that in your previous post. Thanks again.

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post #81 of 1677 Old 01-10-2014, 04:14 AM
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Questions:

What are the differences between the PN##F4500 and PN##F4550 serieses? I couldn't notice any differences on the Samsung website.

I'm not sure if you'll understand this next question, but I guess I won't know unless I try. I have noticed that with CCFL-backlit LCD TVs, the frame surrounding the screen would be an additional two inches (each from the top, bottom, left side, and right side). On LED-backlit TVs, a half-inch. How much framing is above the screen on the F4500/4550? My shelf has an inch and a half of overhang. I was thinking that if I put the TV in the shelf past the overhang, if the overhang doesn't block the screen, I might be able to pull this off.
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post #82 of 1677 Old 01-10-2014, 03:42 PM
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Roughly one inch one eighth to one inch one quarter depending on how you measure it.

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post #83 of 1677 Old 01-12-2014, 08:00 AM
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I have this tv perfectly calaborated I have the white balance plus the color space settings!!! If anyone is intrested in true hd picture let me know
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post #84 of 1677 Old 01-12-2014, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sabansosic93 View Post

I have this tv perfectly calaborated I have the white balance plus the color space settings!!! If anyone is intrested in true hd picture let me know

Just post the settings here so that everyone can enjoy them.
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post #85 of 1677 Old 01-12-2014, 09:25 AM
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Standard
Cell light 18
Contrast 92
Brightness 48 on a bright day and 46 in a dark night
Sharpness 20 for hd video games and 30 for hdtv 40 for non hd signal
Color 48
Tint g51 r49
Advanced setting color space for
Red 44-4-4
Green 11-46-4
Blue 0-0-55
Yellow 52-52-4
Cyan 10-50-50
Magenta 48-0-48
White balance 22,26,25,26,24,27
Gamma usually 0 but sometimes it's necessary to put it up +1
Everything els stays the same or off
Now color tone Is usually for games is cool but regular viewing is standard
Now if you do not have hd signal for your dish ect you can use digital clean view on high and MPEG noise filter high as well and film mode on Auto1 make sure it's on that and not on auto 2 for they are completely different things and black optimizer for dark room usually but if necessary you can use bright room
That's it let me know what you think.
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post #86 of 1677 Old 01-12-2014, 09:27 AM
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Also if you click source and go to the top right corner you can enable game and not use game mode becouse you still get the same lower I out lag witch is good but game mode is ment for ps2 and older gen games so if you out it on game you still get the best of both worlds and not lose resolution
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post #87 of 1677 Old 01-13-2014, 04:24 AM
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There's a new firmware out on the Samsung support site (ver.1027.2). Unfortunately, Samsung hasn't provided any information yet what it fixes/improves.
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post #88 of 1677 Old 01-13-2014, 07:35 AM
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Before I discuss comparing this TV with other plasmas and panel types, I have noticed that Samsung sells the PN43F4500 and PN43F4550. What is the difference between the 4500 and 4550? I have noticed that you can buy both directly from Samsung, yet you can only buy the 4500 from other places. If anyone knows the difference(s), please explain.

After reading a review of the PN51F4500 at televisioninfo.com, this looks like it might be a good TV for those who need a plasma under 50 inches, yet missed out on the Panasonic TC-P42S60 and can't stop bellyaching about it. I understand that LG plasmas have worse contrast than some LCD panels! How long do I have before I miss out on the chance to get a brand new PN43F4500/4550 before they disappear like the Panasonic TC-P42S60 did? Considering the viewing angle and contrast ratio, I'd say that this Samsung plasma is better than some of the best and more expensive LCD panels. Besides, there will always be opertunity for LCD, but somehow, I think that I should grab one of these before I regret missing out on it.
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post #89 of 1677 Old 01-13-2014, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justlou View Post

There's a new firmware out on the Samsung support site (ver.1027.2). Unfortunately, Samsung hasn't provided any information yet what it fixes/improves.

FWIW, I applied the 1027 update today, and don't see any differences from 1017.
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post #90 of 1677 Old 01-13-2014, 02:14 PM
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Hmmm, mine says there is no update at this time.

I remember when products were built to last.
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