Samsung PNxxF4500 Owners Thread - Page 45 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1321 of 1677 Old 02-20-2015, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by zamine View Post
I haven't read carefully your last sentence so i'll try describe as best what is exatly happend:

1- At first second after power-on, the panel is completely black and is near invisible in totaly dark room.
2- The panel become lighter (the complete black of the off screen become like grey) exactly like what you can see when you turn on an LCD tv ; transition from backlight- off to backlight on.
3- The Samsung logo is displayed and the black area always look more grey than black.

So after that, with contrast picture there is no problem, the picture is really beautiful and natural but with dark picture and with light off the black areas are clearly like grey and differ too much from the black bezels of the tv.

So i'm disapointed cause i don't know if all samsung 43h4500 tvs have this relatively poor blacks or it's just mine who suffer from this problem ?
I got two PN43F4500B units last October from Best Buy, but returned one since it had several dead pixels. But with both, blacks never were full black (like with the set off, or black like the bezel around it) or a full OLED type black, but more of a LCD type of black...if that makes. Since both of these sets were like that, I figured it was just normal for it.
I was coming from a 36" Panasonic Tau CRT HDTV, which to me had better blacks on it.
When I asked about it a few months ago, most people said that what I'm seeing is the charge of the phosphor and is normal, that there is no 100% pure black like what you would get on a OLED TV (or similar to a Samsung phone).
I did turn off the boot screen, since it isn't needed.
The firmware on my 43" B set is 1006, which is the latest. The one I returned was 1003 or 1004, but it made no different in the black level.

I am also using 22points settings.

Last edited by FAUguy; 02-20-2015 at 10:38 AM.
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post #1322 of 1677 Old 02-20-2015, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by FAUguy View Post
I got two PN43F4500B units last October from Best Buy, but returned one since it had several dead pixels. But with both, blacks never were full black (like with the set off, or black like the bezel around it) or a full OLED type black, but more of a LCD type of black...if that makes. Since both of these sets were like that, I figured it was just normal for it.
I was coming from a 36" Panasonic Tau CRT HDTV, which to me had better blacks on it.
When I asked about it a few months ago, most people said that what I'm seeing is the charge of the phosphor and is normal, that there is no 100% pure black like what you would get on a OLED TV (or similar to a Samsung phone).
I did turn off the boot screen, since it isn't needed.
The firmware on my 43" B set is 1006, which is the latest. The one I returned was 1003 or 1004, but it made no different in the black level.

I am also using 22points settings.
thanks a lot for this usefull and detailed response.
It's interesting to hear that since i haven't the idea of what measured black level by cd/m2 that we found in many review will realy mean in real visio in totaly dark room, i I always thought that the 0,02 or 0,03 cd/m2 black luminance value is near to perfect black than to greyish black of most of LCD !

I'm still thinking that my 43h4500 plasma has lower blacks than the f4500 and it's black luminance don't correspond to 0,02 or 0,03 cd/m2 because one time, i have tried a basic chinese VA panel LCD with relatively good contrast and displayed black looked near perfect in low light room and relatively good in totaly black room but blacks my h4500 look grey even in low light room.

Another thing, i had a sony 32cx520 with SPVA panel with 1500:1 natif contrast ( value from panellook ) and its black are exactly like my 43h4500 plasma !

I have made this picture to simulate the perceived blacks displayed by my plasma tv in totaly dark room :
can you please tell me if blacks in the 43F4500 are similar to the showed one in this picture or are they better ? With light off you will have better idea as the luminance difference will be more perceptible.

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post #1323 of 1677 Old 02-20-2015, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 22point8 View Post
I do notice some DSE on the screen wiper, but black is consistently black (night sky black, not bottomless pit black). First pic is 96hz (0.024cdm2), second is 60hz (0.007cdm2). The green dots are from my Yamaha YSP-1400 sound bar.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...l#post29906537

Hope this helps.

I'd say your perceptual image is slighty lighter than what I actually see, also if there is anything else on screen the black looks blacker, either due to the way the eye works or black optimiser only turning on the black bits of screen on for half the time vs a full black screen where the whole screen is being precharged.

a good demo for this is panasonic - a night in the milky way, watch it in the dark and when there are stars and stuff the black looks infinate black, but when it goes to a full black screen its disappointing in comparison.

http://www.demo-world.eu/download-2d..._milky_way.jpg

Another thing to consider, if you are in a 50hz country, 50hz content runs at a 100hz refresh rate, which has a higher black level (0.025 vs 0.0068 at 60hz).
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post #1324 of 1677 Old 02-21-2015, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by FAUguy View Post
I had the same issue, but then saw that he said the WB Offset and Gains are to be swapped on "B" models (see my post above). After I made that correction, the green tint was gone.
Thank you. On another note, I have the A version and B version of the 4500. The default Custom Color Space is quite different for the two. If 22point8's settings are calibrated for the A, I don't know you could copy those settings for the B to get a calibrated picture.
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post #1325 of 1677 Old 02-21-2015, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by jer88 View Post
Thank you. On another note, I have the A version and B version of the 4500. The default Custom Color Space is quite different for the two. If 22point8's settings are calibrated for the A, I don't know you could copy those settings for the B to get a calibrated picture.
Good to know, it would seem the B is more in line with other models then where the default Custom is the same as Native. Native being the widest gamut. In that case Auto is probably best.
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post #1326 of 1677 Old 02-21-2015, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22point8 View Post
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...l#post29906537

Hope this helps.

I'd say your perceptual image is slighty lighter than what I actually see, also if there is anything else on screen the black looks blacker, either due to the way the eye works or black optimiser only turning on the black bits of screen on for half the time vs a full black screen where the whole screen is being precharged.

a good demo for this is panasonic - a night in the milky way, watch it in the dark and when there are stars and stuff the black looks infinate black, but when it goes to a full black screen its disappointing in comparison.

http://www.demo-world.eu/download-2d..._milky_way.jpg

Another thing to consider, if you are in a 50hz country, 50hz content runs at a 100hz refresh rate, which has a higher black level (0.025 vs 0.0068 at 60hz).
Thank a lot for the help and information.

I'm using a satellite receiver that is outputing to 50hz via HDMI by defautl if i'm not mistaken.

Thank's for the video, i will run the demo to see how blacks will looks and it will be a good point and reference for compraison.

Even my PA43H4500 is not european model, the installed firmware was an for an european model one (T-NT14LDEUC_1018), the TV ingnored the PA43H4500 firmware ( "invalid file" message ) i found on samsung site; T-NT14LDAAC (version 1019) so i upgraded to T-NT14LDEUC_1026, but apparently blacks level is the same.
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post #1327 of 1677 Old 02-21-2015, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zamine View Post
thanks a lot for this usefull and detailed response.
It's interesting to hear that since i haven't the idea of what measured black level by cd/m2 that we found in many review will realy mean in real visio in totaly dark room, i I always thought that the 0,02 or 0,03 cd/m2 black luminance value is near to perfect black than to greyish black of most of LCD !

I'm still thinking that my 43h4500 plasma has lower blacks than the f4500 and it's black luminance don't correspond to 0,02 or 0,03 cd/m2 because one time, i have tried a basic chinese VA panel LCD with relatively good contrast and displayed black looked near perfect in low light room and relatively good in totaly black room but blacks my h4500 look grey even in low light room.

Another thing, i had a sony 32cx520 with SPVA panel with 1500:1 natif contrast ( value from panellook ) and its black are exactly like my 43h4500 plasma !

I have made this picture to simulate the perceived blacks displayed by my plasma tv in totaly dark room :
can you please tell me if blacks in the 43F4500 are similar to the showed one in this picture or are they better ? With light off you will have better idea as the luminance difference will be more perceptible.

If your blacks look grey in just a darkened room, either something in your settings are off or the H panel simply doesnt match the F4500s performance. The blacks on the F4500 are so dark I simply cant imagine anyone not being satisfied with them. For a $300-$400 set its shockingly good, IMO.

Below is a similar dark room test I did on my F4500 "A" revision set. A small 255 red dot on a 0,0,0 black background, taken in a pitch black room. Though there is a slight visible luminance in the pitch black room, the camera can not pick it up. The blacks are incredibly dark on my set when viewing any real content, when using a cell light of 15 or so the luminance is simply not visible due to the the other light from the video keeping your eyes from diolating enough to detect it.

For full res shots, use the following links. http://i.imgur.com/Ad8zYY4.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vVGosBA.jpg





Also, below are some more uniformity shots of my "A" set.




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Displays: Samsung PN51F5300BFXA, PN51F4500AFXA, PN51F4500BFXA


Last edited by Josh128; 02-21-2015 at 07:18 AM.
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post #1328 of 1677 Old 02-21-2015, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22point8 View Post
Good to know, it would seem the B is more in line with other models then where the default Custom is the same as Native. Native being the widest gamut. In that case Auto is probably best.
Actually, on my 43" B, the Auto and Custome are identical. The only difference is that the Custom you can then change, which I did using your newest calibrated settings. But that was for your A model, so I'm not sure if that should be used for my B model. The Native looks fake, so I don't use it.
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post #1329 of 1677 Old 02-21-2015, 10:52 AM
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If your blacks look grey in just a darkened room, either something in your settings are off or the H panel simply doesnt match the F4500s performance. The blacks on the F4500 are so dark I simply cant imagine anyone not being satisfied with them. For a $300-$400 set its shockingly good, IMO.

Below is a similar dark room test I did on my F4500 "A" revision set. A small 255 red dot on a 0,0,0 black background, taken in a pitch black room. Though there is a slight visible luminance in the pitch black room, the camera can not pick it up. The blacks are incredibly dark on my set when viewing any real content, when using a cell light of 15 or so the luminance is simply not visible due to the the other light from the video keeping your eyes from diolating enough to detect it.
thank a lot you for this very useful response and clarifications

that's confirm what i was thought, even my PA43H4500 Is "A" version, it has poor blacks and it's due perhaps like you said to the H panel but is that mean that the others H4500 or F4500 use another panel version ?.

i tough that there is no panel lottery with samsung plasma TV and that they are all manufactured by samsung but if my set in not faulty one it's clear that bad quality plasma panels are used in some H4500 tvs.

Do you know which version is your F4500 and have you checked before the panel version ?
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post #1330 of 1677 Old 02-21-2015, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by zamine View Post
thank a lot you for this very useful response and clarifications

that's confirm what i was thought, even my PA43H4500 Is "A" version, it has poor blacks and it's due perhaps like you said to the H panel but is that mean that the others H4500 or F4500 use another panel version ?.

i tough that there is no panel lottery with samsung plasma TV and that they are all manufactured by samsung but if my set in not faulty one it's clear that bad quality plasma panels are used in some H4500 tvs.

Do you know which version is your F4500 and have you checked before the panel version ?
Im having a tough time believing that it has anything to do with "panel lottery". Being a newer model, the H4500 should at least equal the F4500s performance. I have 2 F4500s (A and B rev) and a B rev F5300 and they all have extremely similar color reproduction and black levels (at least as far as I can tell by eye). Im much more inclined to believe that either there is an issue with your source (like whether its set to full or limited range color, etc) or the settings you are using.

It really, really sounds to me like your connected device is using limited range color (16-235) while your set is expecting full range (0-255). Remember, HDMI Black Level Normal = Full range, HDMI Black Level Low= Limited range. If your connected box is using YCC colorspace, then the HDMI Black levels should be greyed out, if thats not the case, you definitely need to make sure you are using the correct settings here.


Can you please post pictures of your problem and a detailed list of the settings you are using? Assuming you havent changed the settings on the second HDMI port on the TV, try plugging into that one-- see if the problem is the same.

You might also try to go to the system options and reset everything to defaults, then turn off Eco mode, reduce your brightness to 43 and set your cell light to 14. Use standard preset mode with standard color temp.

Have you tried different sources, such as a PC or Blu-Ray player?

Below is a good write up (composed for Xbox 360, but applicable to all A/V equipment) on colorspace and full vs limited range RGB...

http://www.waivingentropy.com/2014/0...s-guide/#link1

Displays: Samsung PN51F5300BFXA, PN51F4500AFXA, PN51F4500BFXA


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post #1331 of 1677 Old 02-22-2015, 09:04 AM
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An update on my warranty repair request.

Once I was able to get in touch with the repair shop directly the process was smooth, i.e., they called me when they said they would, showed up when they said they would, etc.

I wasn't home during the repair but from what I understand the technician essentially replaced the entire panel (part number BN96-30105A). Supposedly it took the technician about an hour and now my unit is back to as it was when I bought it.

Overall, I would've preferred there to be better communication from Samsung Support to the local repair shop but in the end I am quite pleased. They got me back up and running in about 10 days from failure to repair.

MPH
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post #1332 of 1677 Old 02-22-2015, 11:45 AM
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I've discovered something about the 'Motion Lighting' setting in Standard mode. It has no real effect on test patterns other than a very small average gamma raise (unnoticeable).

Watching the Panasonic - A Night in the Milky Way demo, the parts were it goes to an all black screen actually turns off the panel instead of precharging it. It didn't mess up when the video came back either (it turned back on straight away so I didn't miss anything).

The description of the setting is:
"Adjust brightness levels according to on-screen picture motion to reduce power consumption."

I'm guessing it doesn't precharge full black screens and use less subfields when the picture is static.

It might depend on the brightness setting too, it turns the panels off on USB but I had to decrease brightness 1 click for it to work on HDMI.

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post #1333 of 1677 Old 02-22-2015, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22point8 View Post
I've discovered something about the 'Motion Lighting' setting in Standard mode. It has no real effect on test patterns other than a very small average gamma raise (unnoticeable).

Watching the Panasonic - A Night in the Milky Way demo, the parts were it goes to an all black screen actually turns off the panel instead of precharging it. It didn't mess up when the video came back either (it turned back on straight away so I didn't miss anything).

The description of the setting is:
"Adjust brightness levels according to on-screen picture motion to reduce power consumption."

I'm guessing it doesn't precharge full black screens and use less subfields when the picture is static.

It might depend on the brightness setting too, it turns the panels off on USB but I had to decrease brightness 1 click for it to work on HDMI.
Do you think motion lighting would work the same on aF8500?
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post #1334 of 1677 Old 02-22-2015, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22point8 View Post
I've discovered something about the 'Motion Lighting' setting in Standard mode. It has no real effect on test patterns other than a very small average gamma raise (unnoticeable).

Watching the Panasonic - A Night in the Milky Way demo, the parts were it goes to an all black screen actually turns off the panel instead of precharging it. It didn't mess up when the video came back either (it turned back on straight away so I didn't miss anything).

The description of the setting is:
"Adjust brightness levels according to on-screen picture motion to reduce power consumption."

I'm guessing it doesn't precharge full black screens and use less subfields when the picture is static.

It might depend on the brightness setting too, it turns the panels off on USB but I had to decrease brightness 1 click for it to work on HDMI.
^ Interesting.

My understanding is that it steps down the brightness when there's nothing moving on the screen, which may help to reduce (but not eliminate) the chances of permanent burn-in if a still image is accidentally left on the screen.

It probably won't help with things like screen logos, bugs, HUDs or "black bars" though if there's anything else moving on the screen.

ADU

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post #1335 of 1677 Old 02-22-2015, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22point8 View Post
I've discovered something about the 'Motion Lighting' setting in Standard mode. It has no real effect on test patterns other than a very small average gamma raise (unnoticeable).

Watching the Panasonic - A Night in the Milky Way demo, the parts were it goes to an all black screen actually turns off the panel instead of precharging it. It didn't mess up when the video came back either (it turned back on straight away so I didn't miss anything).

The description of the setting is:
"Adjust brightness levels according to on-screen picture motion to reduce power consumption."

I'm guessing it doesn't precharge full black screens and use less subfields when the picture is static.

It might depend on the brightness setting too, it turns the panels off on USB but I had to decrease brightness 1 click for it to work on HDMI.
I was able to get the panel to turn off using a full screen zero black with a PC-- I dont think the "Motion Lighting" option was on, if even available-- I'd have to go back and check again....

BTW, Ive recently tried the "Auto" colorspace option on all my sets for HD video-- indeed it does look much more natural than "Native". Im still running my game systems with "Native" though-- I still like the slightly more "garish" look with them.

Displays: Samsung PN51F5300BFXA, PN51F4500AFXA, PN51F4500BFXA


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post #1336 of 1677 Old 02-22-2015, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zamine View Post
thank a lot you for this very useful response and clarifications

that's confirm what i was thought, even my PA43H4500 Is "A" version, it has poor blacks and it's due perhaps like you said to the H panel but is that mean that the others H4500 or F4500 use another panel version ?.

i tough that there is no panel lottery with samsung plasma TV and that they are all manufactured by samsung but if my set in not faulty one it's clear that bad quality plasma panels are used in some H4500 tvs.

Do you know which version is your F4500 and have you checked before the panel version ?
What settings are you using? 
The H4900 I have been playing around with has very good blacks though that's maybe because it's 51 inch ( does size make any difference in black levels?). Here the H4500 is not available but H4900(3D) is and I think it has the same panel(T2 I think but will check). We also have the F4000 which has the lightest blacks I have seen on a plasma display but it's also very cheap. Compared to an E450, the H4900 is a bit brighter, has better color due to cms and very deep blacks. The E450 is no joke either especially with bias lighting. 
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post #1337 of 1677 Old 02-23-2015, 05:11 AM
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@ Josh128
thanks for the captures, colors, uniformity and blacks looks really great, I feel like having a semi-Plasma tv now.
I hope that there isn't panel lottery and i prefer having a default set instead so i can change it and finally benefit from the good blacks.
@Lion Rider
thanks for the confirmation and as you said H4900 have very good blacks like many owners confirmed and it's the reason why i bought the H4500 since it should performing the same.

I have rechecked panel version and its 43HHHc.

I will upload the captures of the given pictures and videos links( like panasonic milky way from josh). i will upload some demonstrative pictures too from of differents satellite channels, so you will have the best idea how blacks looks.





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I was able to get the panel to turn off using a full screen zero black with a PC-- I dont think the "Motion Lighting" option was on, if even available-- I'd have to go back and check again....

BTW, Ive recently tried the "Auto" colorspace option on all my sets for HD video-- indeed it does look much more natural than "Native". Im still running my game systems with "Native" though-- I still like the slightly more "garish" look with them.
With my 43F4500B set, if it is using Standard mode and the image is full black for more than 1 second, the screen looks like if turns off. But if using the Movie mode, I can see the screen is still on, looks dark gray/black.
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post #1339 of 1677 Old 02-23-2015, 11:58 AM
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With my 43F4500B set, if it is using Standard mode and the image is full black for more than 1 second, the screen looks like if turns off. But if using the Movie mode, I can see the screen is still on, looks dark gray/black.
I noticed that when I turned on motion lighting, I had to re-adjust the brightness setting a little higher (44 to 45).
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post #1340 of 1677 Old 02-23-2015, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Vincent Praino View Post
I noticed that when I turned on motion lighting, I had to re-adjust the brightness setting a little higher (44 to 45).
But even with Motion Lighting On or Off, when using the Standard mode, the screen will turn off on a full black image with my set. Movie mode will not.
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post #1341 of 1677 Old 02-23-2015, 04:07 PM
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Hey guys. I got in on the Walmart deal today on the PN51F4500.

I've been reading back a few pages, but have one question. How do you now whether or not you have version A or version B? Is it on the back of the panel?

Also can anyone recommend a 2x1 or 3x1 non-powered HDMI switch? Will the ones from monoprice be ok?

TIA
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post #1342 of 1677 Old 02-24-2015, 07:31 AM
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Hey guys. I got in on the Walmart deal today on the PN51F4500.

I've been reading back a few pages, but have one question. How do you now whether or not you have version A or version B? Is it on the back of the panel?

Also can anyone recommend a 2x1 or 3x1 non-powered HDMI switch? Will the ones from monoprice be ok?

TIA
So what is the Walmart price? I got tired slowly boring my way down to checkout. I funny how thet want to hide the price.

The Monoprice switches should be fine

Samsung UN65HU9000F
Yamaha RX-A2030
Oppo BDP-103
Klipsch RF-82II/RS-42II/RC-62II/RS-10
HSU VTF-3 MkIII
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post #1343 of 1677 Old 02-24-2015, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by r2t2 View Post
So what is the Walmart price? I got tired slowly boring my way down to checkout. I funny how thet want to hide the price.

The Monoprice switches should be fine
$348 before tax. Free shipping to the store.
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post #1344 of 1677 Old 02-24-2015, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by kantonburg View Post
Hey guys. I got in on the Walmart deal today on the PN51F4500.

I've been reading back a few pages, but have one question. How do you now whether or not you have version A or version B? Is it on the back of the panel?

Also can anyone recommend a 2x1 or 3x1 non-powered HDMI switch? Will the ones from monoprice be ok?

TIA
I have a monoprice switch, it works as advertised.

It's very unlike you'd get an A set. They stopped producing them a while ago now. I'm not saying it's guaranteed, but I would expect you to get a B.
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post #1345 of 1677 Old 02-24-2015, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 22point8 View Post
50hz Regions OTA
Spoiler!


60hz OTA
Spoiler!


Blu-Ray
Spoiler!


Blu-ray (with Cinema Smooth)
Spoiler!


PC
Spoiler!


Component
Spoiler!
First off thanks for all your hard work.

I noticed in your 2000+ hour post that the Gains and Offsets were swapped and had different starting values for the B version panels. I'm assuming this applies to these values here also?
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post #1346 of 1677 Old 02-24-2015, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by kantonburg View Post
First off thanks for all your hard work.

I noticed in your 2000+ hour post that the Gains and Offsets were swapped and had different starting values for the B version panels. I'm assuming this applies to these values here also?

If I had 25 26 25 20 25 25 on my 'A' panel, you'd want -5 0 0 0 1 0, its been said that the colourspace presets are different between A and B too, so you might want to just use auto.
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post #1347 of 1677 Old 02-24-2015, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 22point8 View Post
If I had 25 26 25 20 25 25 on my 'A' panel, you'd want -5 0 0 0 1 0, its been said that the colourspace presets are different between A and B too, so you might want to just use auto.
So does that mean in post

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...l#post31809001

Where you said,
Quote:
Settings guidance:
These should be OK to copy for the 'A' models, for 'B' models the white balance controls start at 0, whereas 25 is the starting point on the 'A' (so 28 would be +3 and 24 would be -1). The Gains and Bias will need swapping on the 'B'.
This doesn't apply B panels early on? Or am I looking at this wrong? I thought it would be based on straight reverse order.
0
0
-5
0
+1
0

Thanks again
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post #1348 of 1677 Old 02-25-2015, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by kantonburg View Post
So does that mean in post

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...l#post31809001

Where you said,


This doesn't apply B panels early on? Or am I looking at this wrong? I thought it would be based on straight reverse order.
0
0
-5
0
+1
0

Thanks again
I have a B panel and I can say that reversing the Gain to Offset with 22.8's settings works. So, if his settings were 25 26 25 20 25 25, you'd want -5 0 0 0 1 0 (just take what he has for red offset and put it in for red gain, ect). I had previously just put his settings verbatim on my B panel and my screen looked washed out, so I ditched his settings. Recently, I ran across the post where the A panels have offset and gain switched, so I tried his settings accordingly and BAM! The tv when from just looking great, to looking amazing. There is a whole other sense of depth and realism that is hard to comprehend. The settings truly take the panel to a whole new level of realism. Now, I don't have calibration equipment, but just doing the eye test everything looks very natural and spot on how it should look (at least closer than I've seen on any other tv).

I will also add that using the custom color space works as well, at least using the the eye test once again. Out of the box, native looks too red. Custom and auto look indistinguishable. Then, adding 22.8's custom colorspace settings take it to a whole new level. So, I use custom.

The only thing I tweeked from his bluray settings (without cinema smooth) was contrast. I have mine set at 98 instead of 95 as I can push the white level to 98 before I begin to see a red tint in the bars using AVSHD 709 and still not clip.

I hope this helps.

Last edited by johnnymacIII; 02-25-2015 at 09:10 AM.
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post #1349 of 1677 Old 02-25-2015, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by johnnymacIII View Post
I have a B panel and I can say that reversing the Gain to Offset with 22.8's settings works. So, if his settings were 25 26 25 20 25 25, you'd want -5 0 0 0 1 0 (just take what he has for red offset and put it in for red gain, ect)..
I have no idea why I was thinking straight swap. Of course you have to swap R-Gain with R-Offset. Thanks

Quote:
The only thing I tweeked from his bluray settings (without cinema smooth) was contrast.
Which film mode are you using?

Are you using his 1000 hour settings or 2000 hour settings?

Last edited by kantonburg; 02-25-2015 at 09:45 AM.
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post #1350 of 1677 Old 02-25-2015, 11:02 AM
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Which film mode are you using?

Are you using his 1000 hour settings or 2000 hour settings?
Hey, man. No problem.

I'm using 1000 hour with no cinema smooth. I prefer to have the deeper blacks rather than smoother motion. I have some time today, so I think I will plug in the 2000 hour settings though.
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