Samsung PN60F5300 calibration settings? - Page 45 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1321 of 1644 Old 05-19-2015, 07:35 AM
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16:9 vs. SCREEN FIT: I watched CNBC, ESPN, and HBO using both picture size formats.

16:9 filled it a bit more VERTICALLY, though I lost a teensy-weensy bit of picture on the left-side of the screen compared to SCREEN FIT.

It appears that SCREEN FIT is fitting the entire picture in its entirety and not losing anything, so there are tiny black gaps vertically and/or horizontally -- am I correct ?

16:9 appears to enlarge the picture a bit to more closely fill 100% of the display screen.

Since 16:9 doesn't disable the Pixel Shift I'll go with that during my break-in.

Thanks for the help, Mike !

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post #1322 of 1644 Old 05-19-2015, 08:01 AM
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A good "local calibration guy" might be hard to find.
Use the images and article linked in this post:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...l#post24801537
You're right, if skin tones are realistic, you're doing pretty well (better than most, frankly).
You should be able to find THX Maximizer on one of your Blu-ray discs. Or download the AVS disc appropriate for your system:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-di...libration+disc
Screen fit should do exactly that, put the image exactly edge to edge. 16:9 will have some overscan. You can use the overscan image from the above disc to check yours.
I had a better handle on Calculus at three than I do now, but using a meter yourself isn't rocket science. Look at how many here have done it.
Enjoy your set.
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Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #1323 of 1644 Old 05-19-2015, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
A good "local calibration guy" might be hard to find.Use the images and article linked in this post:https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...l#post24801537You're right, if skin tones are realistic, you're doing pretty well (better than most, frankly).Screen fit should do exactly that, put the image exactly edge to edge. 16:9 will have some overscan. You can use the overscan image from the above disc to check yours.I had a better handle on Calculus at three than I do now, but using a meter yourself isn't rocket cience. Look at how many here have done it. Enjoy your set.
Michael
Great stuff, Michael...I will get to some of these down the line. As I work from home while working and job searching, the TV is being used about 12-14 hours a day so the break-in period is being accelerated.

Biggest difference I see is that my 2006 720p 50" Philips had a voltage problem with one of the circuit boards which would lead to some sparkling pixels, esp. on start-up. Mostly noticeable when the TV was just turned on, not warmed up, and on dark scenes. So the 5300 already is a BIG improvement.

I helped my friend buy the 8500 last Fall and he loves it and I have to say aside from the 64" vs. 60" I really can't tell much of a difference. Pros might be able to see the difference looking for color and black perfection, but I really can't, especially from the 9-10 feet I watch from.

And yes....I AM ENJOYING the TV (and the extra 10" ).

P.S. I did NOT quote your entire post in my reply !!

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post #1324 of 1644 Old 05-20-2015, 12:35 PM
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I could use a good SOUNDBAR recommendation....just something that is an upgrade over the 5300's internal speakers, not looking for Acoustic Heaven. Since I just spent money on the TV and am out of work, the cheaper the better.

I do need a headphone jack on the bar, as the 5300 doesn't have one and I need to use headphones late at night/early AM and not disturb neighbors.

Thanks for any suggestions.
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post #1325 of 1644 Old 05-20-2015, 03:36 PM
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PhilipsPhanatic, you can get slightly better sound from the internal speakers by going into the Sound menu, then Sound Effect and turn on DTS TruSurround and DTS TruDialog. I run mine through my stereo system for serious viewing, but for casual viewing the DTS options make the internal speakers passable.
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post #1326 of 1644 Old 05-20-2015, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave in Green View Post
PhilipsPhanatic, you can get slightly better sound from the internal speakers by going into the Sound menu, then Sound Effect and turn on DTS TruSurround and DTS TruDialog. I run mine through my stereo system for serious viewing, but for casual viewing the DTS options make the internal speakers passable.
Thanks Dave....I have them both enabled already. Another poster suggested I turn up the 300 hz, 3khz, and 10khz equalizer settings to make it easier to hear dialog -- it's now easy for me to hear the TV above the outside fan at a level of 20 down from 50+.

I'm really not unhappy with the internals, I just thought a 'cheap' pair of wireless speakers or better yet a Soundbar would be nice. The soundbar option would also allow me to utilize my headphones (assuming I get one with a headphone jack, which I would) which I often use because I live in a condo and at times I have to 'go quiet' in the apartment.
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post #1327 of 1644 Old 05-20-2015, 08:45 PM
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Well, a tech came and swapped out the panel on my set -- which is really 90% of the entire set, and the buzz was the same. Looks like I'm going to be keeping an eye out for something with a similarly nice PQ but am not looking forward to the whole researching thing to find the right set at the right price
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post #1328 of 1644 Old 05-20-2015, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by crakarjax View Post
Well, a tech came and swapped out the panel on my set -- which is really 90% of the entire set, and the buzz was the same. Looks like I'm going to be keeping an eye out for something with a similarly nice PQ but am not looking forward to the whole researching thing to find the right set at the right price
How noticeable is the buzz ? Can you hear it when the sound is on and music/dialog is taking place ?

Not sure if you have the "A" or "B" model but maybe get another "B" and return/sell the one you have ?
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post #1329 of 1644 Old 05-20-2015, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post
How noticeable is the buzz ? Can you hear it when the sound is on and music/dialog is taking place ?

Not sure if you have the "A" or "B" model but maybe get another "B" and return/sell the one you have ?
I have a B and cannot hear it while viewing media, but do computer stuff without sound frequently. If not, I'd let it go.
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post #1330 of 1644 Old 05-20-2015, 09:01 PM
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Hockey Settings for Sammy 5300 60": OK, I took a closer look at the hockey games the last 2 days and yeah, I did notice that the white ice was a bit dullish. Now, my 2006 50" 720p never had the settings set to bright; I always focused on the big picture and clear PQ compared to my old 27" and 32" CRTs. As long as the ice wasn't grey, I didn't notice.

My 60" 5300 is only a few days old, so I can't/won't use a Dynamic/Bright setting until a few more weeks go by (would it be safe to turn up the settings for a few hours only ? ).

Tonight I watched some of the game on a 70" Vizio E-series LCD from 2013 or so. I saw the increased brightness and whiteness in both the Standard and Vivid settings compared to both of my plasmas. Guess I never noticed it before; as it turns out, hockey would be the only thing I watch regularly where the whiteness/brightness comes into play.

So my question is.....what can I do with the Dynamic Setting on my 5300 (once broken in) where I can optimize the settings for hockey, where you have a large portion of the screen white ? It seems the only thing that has room to be increased is the BRIGHTNESS function, but maybe turning down other settings or sub-features will help also ?

Any hockey fans with experience on the 5300, please chime in.
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post #1331 of 1644 Old 05-20-2015, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crakarjax View Post
I have a B and cannot hear it while viewing media, but do computer stuff without sound frequently. If not, I'd let it go.
But how loud is it ? I know myself I wouldn't like a loud buzz from my HDTV or the PC when I am working in quiet, but if I have to have complete silence to hear the slightest buzz, you figure that's OK. Because usually I have sound on either the PC or the TV.

Now....if it sounds like a loud hissing noise that sounds as loud as TV voices at low volume (5-10 volume level), that's a problem.
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post #1332 of 1644 Old 05-21-2015, 04:09 AM
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Quote:
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Hockey Settings for Sammy 5300 60": OK, I took a closer look at the hockey games the last 2 days and yeah, I did notice that the white ice was a bit dullish. Now, my 2006 50" 720p never had the settings set to bright; I always focused on the big picture and clear PQ compared to my old 27" and 32" CRTs. As long as the ice wasn't grey, I didn't notice.

My 60" 5300 is only a few days old, so I can't/won't use a Dynamic/Bright setting until a few more weeks go by (would it be safe to turn up the settings for a few hours only ? ).

Tonight I watched some of the game on a 70" Vizio E-series LCD from 2013 or so. I saw the increased brightness and whiteness in both the Standard and Vivid settings compared to both of my plasmas. Guess I never noticed it before; as it turns out, hockey would be the only thing I watch regularly where the whiteness/brightness comes into play.

So my question is.....what can I do with the Dynamic Setting on my 5300 (once broken in) where I can optimize the settings for hockey, where you have a large portion of the screen white ? It seems the only thing that has room to be increased is the BRIGHTNESS function, but maybe turning down other settings or sub-features will help also ?

Any hockey fans with experience on the 5300, please chime in.
If you want to try and preserve some picture quality and have a bright picture I would turn contrast as high as possible before clipping (it might not clip 235 even at 100), set brightness correctly, leave gamma at 0, turn black optimizer on auto and set color temperature to Warm 1. Turn off all other post processing. Try this in Movie mode first, if its too dull still, try the same thing in standard mode. Cell light at 20 for both of course and make sure all eco settings are off (standard might have them on by default)

dynamic mode has a lot of setting limitations and standard can get pretty much as bright while looking a lot better if you follow the above.

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post #1333 of 1644 Old 05-21-2015, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Michael Vincent Praino View Post
If you want to try and preserve some picture quality and have a bright picture I would turn contrast as high as possible before clipping
Clipping ? Not familiar with that.

Quote:
(it might not clip 235 even at 100), set brightness correctly, leave gamma at 0, turn black optimizer on auto and set color temperature to Warm 1. Turn off all other post processing. Try this in Movie mode first, if its too dull still, try the same thing in standard mode. Cell light at 20 for both of course and make sure all eco settings are off (standard might have them on by default)
OK, I'll do that. I was hoping to make changes in the Dyanmic Setting since I could leave Standard alone for all other viewing. But if there are too many settings that would need to be changed I guess I can do it in Movie.

Quote:
dynamic mode has a lot of setting limitations and standard can get pretty much as bright while looking a lot better if you follow the above.
Got it.....I guess I can also make the changes in Standard and just write down what non-hockey settings I need for normal viewing.

Thanks, MVP !!! (your initials are great !! ).
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post #1334 of 1644 Old 05-21-2015, 08:21 AM
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At the risk of opening a can of worms, you may want to use day/night:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...l#post26592105

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
Welcome to AVS - Get out while you still can!
Don't guess, measure: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-au...l#post22789786
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post #1335 of 1644 Old 05-21-2015, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
At the risk of opening a can of worms, you may want to use day/night:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...l#post26592105
Me in the Service Menu ? Like giving a 4-year old a stick of dynamite and a lit match.
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post #1336 of 1644 Old 05-21-2015, 09:13 AM
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Clipping ? Not familiar with that.



OK, I'll do that. I was hoping to make changes in the Dyanmic Setting since I could leave Standard alone for all other viewing. But if there are too many settings that would need to be changed I guess I can do it in Movie.



Got it.....I guess I can also make the changes in Standard and just write down what non-hockey settings I need for normal viewing.

Thanks, MVP !!! (your initials are great !! ).
Take a look at the AVSHD Manual (link). Read through the basic settings (page 3-6). This is a good place to start for basic tv calibration and help you get the most out of the tv without a full blow calibration. You can download the patterns for free here.

You may only have to really fiddle with contrast and brightness settings as color=50, tint=50/50 and sharpness=0 should be spot on for this set.

I would use movie mode for most viewing since it is the most accurate out of the box and use standard for hockey.
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post #1337 of 1644 Old 05-21-2015, 04:23 PM
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PhilipsPhanatic, I don't know a lot about soundbars as I've never researched them. One good source I usually consult on things like that is The Wire Cutter. They currently recommend the Vizio S4221W-C4 as the best budget soundbar. It's currently available from several sources for just over $200. The Wire Cutter article is a good read as it mentions what to look for in a budget soundbar as well as many other choices beyond the Vizio.
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post #1338 of 1644 Old 05-21-2015, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave in Green View Post
The Wire Cutter article is a good read as it mentions what to look for in a budget soundbar as well as many other choices beyond the Vizio.
Thanks Dave....I'm checking it out.

Does it have a headphone jack ??

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post #1339 of 1644 Old 05-21-2015, 06:44 PM
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Totally Irrelevant & Useless Department: Not that it matters, but I noticed when I get right up on top of the TV I can see blurry back-and-forth jiggle on the top of the CNBC or ESPN ticker, or the score in the upper left corner of sports events. It's usually where the border 'bleeds' into the rest of the background picture. The end of the box or rectangles border, so to speak.

Is that what I see referred to as 'judder' ? I can't see it unless I am less than 1-foot away from the TV so I am not gonna worry, just curious.

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post #1340 of 1644 Old 05-22-2015, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post
Totally Irrelevant & Useless Department: Not that it matters, but I noticed when I get right up on top of the TV I can see blurry back-and-forth jiggle on the top of the CNBC or ESPN ticker, or the score in the upper left corner of sports events. It's usually where the border 'bleeds' into the rest of the background picture. The end of the box or rectangles border, so to speak.

Is that what I see referred to as 'judder' ? I can't see it unless I am less than 1-foot away from the TV so I am not gonna worry, just curious.
Could be compression from your cable/satellite provider. Also, it could be your sharpness setting if set too high. Sharpness on these sets are best at 0.
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post #1341 of 1644 Old 05-22-2015, 10:14 PM
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Could be compression from your cable/satellite provider. Also, it could be your sharpness setting if set too high. Sharpness on these sets are best at 0.
Mine's at 10.....turned it all the way up, didn't look different.

Again, I'm not gonna worry.....I'm sure even if I am 1-foot away from a $6,000 OLED or a top-of-the-line Panny or Samsung 8500 plasma, you don't see things as 'smooth' as you do from 7-10 feet.
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post #1342 of 1644 Old 05-22-2015, 10:34 PM
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Anybody have any thoughts regarding the VIZIO S4221w-C4 vs. LG Electronics LAS551H for a soundbar upgrade ? I don't see a comparably-priced Samsung equivalent.

If one works better than the other as far as meshing with the 5300 and/or the Sound Calibration on the set, please let me know.
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post #1343 of 1644 Old 05-23-2015, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post
Anybody have any thoughts regarding the VIZIO S4221w-C4 vs. LG Electronics LAS551H for a soundbar upgrade ? I don't see a comparably-priced Samsung equivalent.

If one works better than the other as far as meshing with the 5300 and/or the Sound Calibration on the set, please let me know.
Generally speaking when I can't do a direct comparison test between two candidates myself I tend to rely on professional reviews from reliable sources. The S4221w-C4 gets consistently good reviews whereas a brief search doesn't turn up any professional reviews of the LAS551H. Based on that alone I'd lean toward the Vizio. But maybe someone who actually has experience with one or both of them will chime in. Of course it would pay for you to carefully read all the professional reviews of the Vizio to make sure there are no issues that wouldn't fit well with your specific layout.

EDIT: I see now that you've also asked this question in the Soundbars forum. That's a great idea as you should get a lot more input in that forum.

Last edited by Dave in Green; 05-23-2015 at 07:28 AM.
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post #1344 of 1644 Old 05-23-2015, 09:42 AM
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Generally speaking when I can't do a direct comparison test between two candidates myself I tend to rely on professional reviews from reliable sources. The S4221w-C4 gets consistently good reviews whereas a brief search doesn't turn up any professional reviews of the LAS551H. Based on that alone I'd lean toward the Vizio.
Thanks Dave...I am leaning toward the Vizio, I think it's fine for my needs since outside of a couple of cheapo mini-speakers with my 27" ProScan CRT 20 years ago I never used external speakers. The Vizio soundbar should be fine, hopefully it has a headphone jack and also won't block the TV infrared controls. CNET noted that problem.

Besides AVS, I always check CNET and Amazon for reviews.
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post #1345 of 1644 Old 05-24-2015, 01:44 AM
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I really wouldn't worry all that much about soundbars. Pretty much anything you get is going to sound better than the built in speakers. So until you're ready to purchase a surround sound system, just go with what you can afford at this point.
Good luck!

S5 tap'n
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post #1346 of 1644 Old 05-25-2015, 03:21 AM
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I finally got around to setting up my F5300 this weekend, and it was a nice surprise that it will pass DD & DTS through its optical audio out even when the source is HDMI or USB. I suppose this makes up for not supporting ARC. They certainly didn't make it easy to mount the F5300 flat against the wall. The bottom inputs/outputs stick out laterally rather than down, and the power cord attaches in the upper left half of the chassis.
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post #1347 of 1644 Old 05-25-2015, 03:28 AM
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Congrats on your F5300! Just an FYI: For around 5 bucks you can purchase right angle HDMI adapter through Amazon to solve that problem. http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Righ.../dp/B002LJNKNM
I think Walmart sells them too.

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post #1348 of 1644 Old 05-25-2015, 04:32 AM
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Congrats on your F5300! Just an FYI: For around 5 bucks you can purchase right angle HDMI adapter through Amazon to solve that problem. http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Righ.../dp/B002LJNKNM
I think Walmart sells them too.

S5 tap'n
I have 6 of the HDMI right angle adapters on order to use on the back of my AVR. The HDMI inputs on the F5300 are not a problem as they are both on the side. It's the toslink and the coax connections on the bottom that are a problem as they stick straight out of the back rather than down, and are pinnned against the wall.
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post #1349 of 1644 Old 05-25-2015, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lils Roro View Post
...........................
They certainly didn't make it easy to mount the F5300 flat against the wall. The bottom inputs/outputs stick out laterally rather than down, and the power cord attaches in the upper left half of the chassis.
One of these may help:
F Type Right Angle Female to Male Adapter
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post #1350 of 1644 Old 05-25-2015, 07:40 PM
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How do you obtain the Hours of Operation on the 5300 -- I presume you have to enter the Service Menu ?
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Samsung Pn60f5300 60 Inch 1080p 600hz Plasma Hdtv

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